All that coding experience pays off so well Shaun! As time passes I would be interested in a general video update of how your heater system works at keeping your seed shed above freezing, as well as fuel consumption. Very clean setup you have. Thank you for these two video updates! Nice looking reflective insulation too. Stay Spicy! -Bob...
Thank you so much for this video. I used the parts to read the codes from the transmitter and to transmit the code. Based on this I could build a simple thermostat for the diesel heater in my camper. I wanted a thermostat mainly for the nights and not to let the camper get too cold for my cat when I am away.
Awsome. I'm currently doing this with a Pi. Although struggling to get the heater to respond. Good to know it can be done. So I'll carry on chipping away. 🤙
@@ChilliChump2 I had one of those webasto style diesel heaters on an old ford galaxy I owned years ago. I loved hearing that knocking noise of the pump and I was really impressed with the heat output. Crikey, who would have thought it, with the prices of gas/electricity what they are now people have even resorted to heating their houses with them now..!
Same method I am planning to do at the moment, since the parts for this build actually end up being more expensive for me overall vs the Broadlink. How consistent has it been for you? some have said it doesn't always turn thigns on and off correctly/consistently.
@ it’s been great, had it working for a couple of years now, it is located close to the controller though. Also have my LG TV remote and Roku box mapped in and a small LED light (the ones with the flat white colour changing remote)
Could you add a bit more info to your Github about using an ESP32 ? eg the GPIO pin assignments and coding changes to allow Rx/Tx using ESP32 . Would you need to include an interrupt to read the codes using ESP32? Great Work!
This is almost exactly what I'm lookjng for. Why did you decide to hack the remote and not interface with the controller directly? Would you not get more features/customizability, control and feedback with a direct interface? Without feedback or monitoring, how do you/the adrunio know its doing what it's supposed to be doing?
Just a simpler solution really. Quicker time to value. It's easy to tell what's happening because I get temperature measurements, I can tell if it is heating things up. My code takes this into account too. It does exactly what I need...and has been working perfectly since I implemented it. I might look at something different later if I have time.
suggest taking a look at tasmota, no need for all this code, it natively support all the sensors you showed, has a scheduler integrated, nice web interface, etc :)
Great tutorial, I tried using a sonoff 433 gateway to sniff the codes but failed so hacked the control panel and attached a linknode R4 relay board flashed with esphome and control via node red. I think I'll take another look at sniffing the codes using your method.
Thanks Michael. The sniffing of the codes was the quickest way to get done what I wanted. If I had the time and inclination, it would be great to directly interface with the system. But I decided it wasn't really necessary. Let me know how you get on!
@@ChilliChump2 The sniffing worked a treat, I now can remove the relay board (which was ugly) and have hooked up an RF 433mhz sender to a Wemos D1 (using esphome/home assistant). If anyone is interested in using the same to control their diesel heater via home assistant/esphome an example of the yaml is below. remote_transmitter: pin: D3 # RF uses a 100% carrier signal carrier_duty_percent: 100% switch: - platform: template name: "Heater_Power_Up" id: "power_up" optimistic: true assumed_state: true turn_on_action: remote_transmitter.transmit_rc_switch_raw: code: 'INSERT BINARY CODE HERE' protocol: pulse_length: 229 repeat: times: 5 wait_time: 0s
So looking at the costs of parts from the links..it seems to build one is ~$50-60 USD, since you cant buy just 1 of each component, and the arduinos are all at least ~$20 minimum. Still not a terrible price, but alot more than was hoping it'd be.
This is my first arduino project i had already bought a AHT10 temp and humidity sensor do i just find code for this sensor? What is the point of the resistor in the wiring diagram?
how would i add a oled screen to this? it works great! button gives the away mode in rv and when get back next button mode gets it all warmed up! thru the night it cycles too. works good. info screen would be handy. more novlety tho but asking. an axtra added button for up temp or down temp would be nice too. but, it works fine set it forget it. thank you for the help!
I tried your code out but there is an issue, for some reason it only transmits the last binary in the list. Nothing else will transmit, I'm also running the receiver so I can see what's going on at the same time. Basically it's sending the down code and nothing else, if I put the on code in that spot then it turns the heater on, but that's it
I've been trying to hack my light remote for ages with no success. I thought this might help but still no joy. Tried two different 433Mhz receivers and all sorts of configurations but just can't get the damn thing to read... Also tried a remote temperature sensor that transmits on 433Mhz, also nothing. Frustrating! Thanks for a helpful video anyway!
@@ChilliChump2 Nothing... I put a println statement in to make sure that there was a connection, but no response to any signal. Also couldn't find any diagnostic functions in the library to check the operation of the receiver.
Hacking 443Mhz is epic!!! Shaun... Have you looked at the flipper zero yet? Some notes... Buck converters are VERY noisy devices. Ever used a cheap chinese 12v usb charger while listening to FM radio in your car? Impossible. What I'm trying to say with this... Are you running any other comms in the same space? XeeBee, Wifi, bluetooth.... That buck might give you some headaches. It is worthwhile to strip down a cheap car usb charger, then just go bigger on that coil. That noise spreads around for about 1.5m with a weak suppression, and about 3m with no suppression. A coil around a ferric core directly underneath the buck is your friend in this situation. last note, I hate the arduino IDE. I got all of this working on JetBrains CLion. Worthy looking into that if you want a better IDE
All that coding experience pays off so well Shaun! As time passes I would be interested in a general video update of how your heater system works at keeping your seed shed above freezing, as well as fuel consumption. Very clean setup you have. Thank you for these two video updates! Nice looking reflective insulation too. Stay Spicy! -Bob...
Thank you so much for this video.
I used the parts to read the codes from the transmitter and to transmit the code.
Based on this I could build a simple thermostat for the diesel heater in my camper.
I wanted a thermostat mainly for the nights and not to let the camper get too cold for my cat when I am away.
My pleasure! Glad you found it useful
Love the new tutorial style including being able to see the tutor - well done.
Thank you mate.
Awsome. I'm currently doing this with a Pi. Although struggling to get the heater to respond. Good to know it can be done. So I'll carry on chipping away. 🤙
Interesting project. Never thought about modifying remote control before.
Brilliant..!! Certainly be looking into this. Thanks again.
Your username has never been more appropriate 😄
@@ChilliChump2 I had one of those webasto style diesel heaters on an old ford galaxy I owned years ago. I loved hearing that knocking noise of the pump and I was really impressed with the heat output. Crikey, who would have thought it, with the prices of gas/electricity what they are now people have even resorted to heating their houses with them now..!
Nice work my friend. That 433 stuff is much simpler than the EpEver solar controller code!
Aint that the truth!!
Thank you for making these videos. You do a great job teaching arduinos and sensors.
I appreciate this video. Thank you.
I use a Broadlink RM Pro to duplicate the remote and control my heater via internet/alexa/mobile - it works great
Same method I am planning to do at the moment, since the parts for this build actually end up being more expensive for me overall vs the Broadlink. How consistent has it been for you? some have said it doesn't always turn thigns on and off correctly/consistently.
@ it’s been great, had it working for a couple of years now, it is located close to the controller though. Also have my LG TV remote and Roku box mapped in and a small LED light (the ones with the flat white colour changing remote)
Could you add a bit more info to your Github about using an ESP32 ? eg the GPIO pin assignments and coding changes to allow Rx/Tx using ESP32 . Would you need to include an interrupt to read the codes using ESP32? Great Work!
Thanks for another video.
This is almost exactly what I'm lookjng for. Why did you decide to hack the remote and not interface with the controller directly? Would you not get more features/customizability, control and feedback with a direct interface? Without feedback or monitoring, how do you/the adrunio know its doing what it's supposed to be doing?
Just a simpler solution really. Quicker time to value. It's easy to tell what's happening because I get temperature measurements, I can tell if it is heating things up. My code takes this into account too. It does exactly what I need...and has been working perfectly since I implemented it. I might look at something different later if I have time.
suggest taking a look at tasmota, no need for all this code, it natively support all the sensors you showed, has a scheduler integrated, nice web interface, etc :)
Still fun to code from scratch, problem solving etc. And it's useful for people trying to learn these things to do so with a practical project.
@@ChilliChump2 sure, and good job! I was giving easier alternative for non programmers 😊
How would you set it up in tasmota seems more complex looking at it
Great tutorial, I tried using a sonoff 433 gateway to sniff the codes but failed so hacked the control panel and attached a linknode R4 relay board flashed with esphome and control via node red. I think I'll take another look at sniffing the codes using your method.
Thanks Michael. The sniffing of the codes was the quickest way to get done what I wanted. If I had the time and inclination, it would be great to directly interface with the system. But I decided it wasn't really necessary. Let me know how you get on!
@@ChilliChump2 The sniffing worked a treat, I now can remove the relay board (which was ugly) and have hooked up an RF 433mhz sender to a Wemos D1 (using esphome/home assistant). If anyone is interested in using the same to control their diesel heater via home assistant/esphome an example of the yaml is below.
remote_transmitter:
pin: D3
# RF uses a 100% carrier signal
carrier_duty_percent: 100%
switch:
- platform: template
name: "Heater_Power_Up"
id: "power_up"
optimistic: true
assumed_state: true
turn_on_action:
remote_transmitter.transmit_rc_switch_raw:
code: 'INSERT BINARY CODE HERE'
protocol:
pulse_length: 229
repeat:
times: 5
wait_time: 0s
So looking at the costs of parts from the links..it seems to build one is ~$50-60 USD, since you cant buy just 1 of each component, and the arduinos are all at least ~$20 minimum. Still not a terrible price, but alot more than was hoping it'd be.
Do you have messured/calculated how long the 5l tank is lasting for the frost mode?
It would really depends on the outside temperatures. But I get around 3 to 4 days
Subbed.
welcome!
This is my first arduino project i had already bought a AHT10 temp and humidity sensor do i just find code for this sensor?
What is the point of the resistor in the wiring diagram?
I have the same resistor question..
how would i add a oled screen to this? it works great! button gives the away mode in rv and when get back next button mode gets it all warmed up! thru the night it cycles too. works good. info screen would be handy. more novlety tho but asking. an axtra added button for up temp or down temp would be nice too. but, it works fine set it forget it. thank you for the help!
Did you worked out something of this?
I tried your code out but there is an issue, for some reason it only transmits the last binary in the list. Nothing else will transmit, I'm also running the receiver so I can see what's going on at the same time. Basically it's sending the down code and nothing else, if I put the on code in that spot then it turns the heater on, but that's it
Have you modified any part of the code?
@ChilliChump2 only the binary , pulse length, and put changed it to 32 bit because my heater uses 32
@ChilliChump2 do you have a simpler version, it just needs to turn and off, I don't need the rest of the features
I've been trying to hack my light remote for ages with no success. I thought this might help but still no joy. Tried two different 433Mhz receivers and all sorts of configurations but just can't get the damn thing to read... Also tried a remote temperature sensor that transmits on 433Mhz, also nothing. Frustrating! Thanks for a helpful video anyway!
Do you get any output on the serial console when you do the first part of this?
@@ChilliChump2 Nothing... I put a println statement in to make sure that there was a connection, but no response to any signal. Also couldn't find any diagnostic functions in the library to check the operation of the receiver.
What's the model number of your light?
@@ChilliChump2 It's a Dutch brand, KlikAanKlikUit. They are just remote controlled general purpose switches.
@@1509alexedid you check Domoticz? I have a complete domotics system running based on Domoticz and using Kaku...
Hacking 443Mhz is epic!!!
Shaun... Have you looked at the flipper zero yet?
Some notes...
Buck converters are VERY noisy devices. Ever used a cheap chinese 12v usb charger while listening to FM radio in your car? Impossible.
What I'm trying to say with this... Are you running any other comms in the same space? XeeBee, Wifi, bluetooth.... That buck might give you some headaches.
It is worthwhile to strip down a cheap car usb charger, then just go bigger on that coil.
That noise spreads around for about 1.5m with a weak suppression, and about 3m with no suppression. A coil around a ferric core directly underneath the buck is your friend in this situation.
last note, I hate the arduino IDE. I got all of this working on JetBrains CLion. Worthy looking into that if you want a better IDE
Hey Ben. It was a fun project!
I have had a party with the flipper zero. Cool gadget, but very much overhyped!