Dammit mate, check your emails! 13750? 😂😆 On a more serious note, I've been using LR Timelapse wrong all this time! No wonder I always have flickering 😓 I learned so much from this dude, thanks! 🙌🙏
I use Bridge+AE workflow, which I think is the best, JPEG photo will take some space to storage, although the processing time will probably be reduced, it adds one more step to the whole processing which is a bit annoying, so I just use AE to render the RAW sequence to ProRes 422 as an intermediate, and render again to 4K h.264 or other form with the music and other effects and do the final adjust to make everything perfect and viewable on social media platform
That’s sounds like a similar way and if it works for you than great, yes I also re-render to h.264 or 265 when I need to share on social but keep prores422 for stock 👍🏻
Just found your videos and watched them all. I will try the P mode on my Nikon D850 and see if it works like you said. Just shot a holy grail with manual adjustments and it is average quality. Use LRT and LR for processing also. Like your videos.
For stock I use Blackbox while often I get commissioned to shoot for clients, or clients ask me what I’ve got from a theme and I licence to them directly
These are great thanks for sharing your process!! For the record I'd certainly still be interested in the After Effects image sequence video you were thinking of making :)
Very nice and detailed but you skipped the most important step. Click on the Holy Grail button. What is the best adjustment curve profile for the most uniform result?
Thanks, as explained in the other reply to your comment, the holy grail workflow is best for manual holy grails while this one works best in the standard holy workflow
So, I watched the first part couple months ago and I saved it in my favorite.. and I am glad I did that. Now, just came back to it and found 2 more parts :) I watched them and they are very useful and learned a lot, thanks for sharing it! Do you think if you change the profile from "Adobe Standard" to "Adobe Landscape" would make a difference specially after the sun rise? I usually do this and I liked the result.
Glad you enjoyed part 2 and 3😀Profile is a personal preference I guess and in raw files you can always change it after, but in a timelapse if you’d change a profile in the middle of it that would be a sudden jump and I don’t think lrt deflicker could smooth it, best to stick to one profile from start to finish 👍🏻
Very much enjoyed your videos. Hard to find non-beginner content. I do have a major quibble and you know what it is. Using the vari ND removes it from the Automatic category. Couldn't you use ISO 800 or 1600 to start? Not sure how to do that. Can you use Program Shift? But I still enjoyed it. I can't even find much info on the working paramaters for my Sony a7 III.
Thanks, so about the vari ND - you don’t need to use it, I could set it at full 5 stops at so at daytime I have a longer shutter but indeed I would then need to start at something like iso 3200 or more at night depending on the max wide aperture of the lens. Hence I mentioned you don’t need to use it, but it’s something extra I did for this test. However if ever I’m leaving the camera in the hotel to do an fully automatic holy grail because I’m not going to be next to it, that’s exactly what I would do, choose to put a nd on a set at say 3stops or maybe not put it all at all and just let it run👍🏻hope this helps
wich variable ND filter you use becouse how you can touch it without ruin your shot ? and what are your iso settings . thanks for your fantastic tutorial
I use a 1.5-5 stop nisi nano X, it has a level but also clamping the body as tight as possible helps, then iso is on auto with set max shutter speed allowing for a gap to write and move nd if needed
@@voederbietels yes I was in P mode, but not all camera let you set max shutter speed in auto iso settings, while some only up to 1s which isn’t long enough for night time, this is one of the reasons why Z Nikons are best for timelapse
Thanks, YT really has a limited # of time lapsers! Following. Do you use Syrp and/or Timelapse+ View? Those work great together once I figured how to use together 😬
Indeed there’s not that many of timelapse youtubers but it’s a small niche. I use syrp but very rarely to control the camera only to trigger it when on motion controller slider of pan head, when on a tripod i often just use the in body intervalometer
Greetings From SoCal Machel. I too have been shooting the HG for months now, but never tried your PProgram with the ND. I will try it out. Thanks for the details inside LRT for processing. Why not use LRT render feature and not pay the extra for AE??
Thank you for the helpful video! Is there a reason why you don't use the LRTimelapse exporter at the end to create a video file and then bring it into AE/Premiere and instead export them all as jpegs? Thanks
Glad you found it helpful, I like to pan/tilt/zoom with keyframes in AE so it just skips one rendering step this way, but sometimes I do use the LrT export plugging in Lr
You’re welcome, so I made the Part 3 video where I edit and export the smooth deflickered jpegs, and in AE I just put them together, sometimes stabilize, other time add motion, I don’t do that much there, but yeah, maybe one day I’ll do a AE timelapse workflow 👍🏻
@@LondonViewpoints in this video on 24:53 you said about smooth transitions in out and pans left or right. I'm very interested how to do this manipulations in AE and I'll be very thankful if you tell about it :)
This is great, thank you - I've enjoyed this three-part series! Subscribed :) Didn't I read somewhere that changing contrast in LR is a bad idea when processing the keyframes? Gunther Wegner, the LRTimelapse developer, says something about it being a "non-linear" change, which is the sort of thing that it's easy to think I understand without fully understanding it... but I recently also found out about "contrast flicker" (watching videos from Emeric Le Bars), and I wondered whether that was the issue.
Contrast I think it’s fine, never had flicker with just using exposure, contrast, highlights and shadows up to 50 only, but yes that’s the whole idea about not using non-linear adjustments 👍🏻
@@LondonViewpoints As I understand it, contrast flicker results from applying the same contrast processing to very similar (but different) images, with the result that slight differences in the content of the images lead to different overall luminance in the results. It's not something I've ever been aware of until recently, and I think it's usually an extremely subtle issue that would go unnoticed by many. Emeric seems to have extremely high standards! But lots of perfectly good time lapses have *some* flicker in them, so it's probably a question of how fussy you want to get :) Thank you for replying to my comments, I do appreciate it!
On a night to day it started at 4 while iso was still above 100, then when it reached 100 f stop goes to max and only then shutter starts getting faster and it reached f16 before the sun appeared hence it was nice and star shaped👍🏻
High im running a Nikon D810 and tried out the program mode after looking at one of your tutorials, when I got back and loaded it up in LRT it was very spiky and lots of flicker, could you possibly give me an explanation of why this might have happed and if possible do an abc of the set up I know you have explained it well on your video but im not sure where i went wrong. keep up the good work I do love your tutorials.
Hi, so P mode works best if you have timelapse mode with exposure smoothing, as otherwise of you jsut use an external intervalometer it will expose for whatever is the scene, if a light suddenly comes in it will expose for that, aperterue flicker will be present as you’re using the full range f22-4 or so, so that you have to deal with when deflickering. If you’d like an even detailed tutorial, I do offer paid 1 on 1 zoom calls , email me to discuss more 👍🏻
@@LondonViewpoints thank you for getting back to me. It seems I was doing things right and will persivere for the time being. I will try a different lens as at the time I was using my fisheye and I think the focus was on a liner in the bat with its lights coming on and also swinging in the tide. I do alot of timelapse photography on manuel but listening to you I was impressed how you do it and get fantastic results. So thank you again for getting back to me and I will be in touch in the near future.
@@atlantis4563 the thing with dslr and F lenses versus Z with native Z lenses is that on Z all the vignette and corrections get applied straight to the file, so with apertures moving throughout the P mode timelapse you don’t see the jumps in corrections while on dslr with f lenses you would
Tried two holy grail timlapses, one with a fixed ISO and another with auto ISO. Both were sunset to dark, the first, was great until dark and then it took too dark of pics to recover - too low ISO setting I think. The second HG sunset to dark, looked great until dark but then all pics were too dark to use even though it maxed out the ISO at 25400. OF course it was extremely grainy. For some reason the lowest pic time was .5 sec on this one when it should have gone to several seconds. It seems that the D850 has the wrong priority of ISO first and time next. Still trying to figure this out. Used a 10 sec interval on first try and 20 sec interval on no. 2.
Only 0.5s on D850 ? That doesn’t sound right, however I did have some issues indeed myself when trying the D850 on loan, I was back than using Qdlsr dashboard to automatically ramp settings and it failed me many times where middle of the timelapse it just stopped changing settings and things went too overexposed or to dark. Best to try P mode at home in photo preview mode by pointing from dark to light park of a room and seeing how the settings change. Maybe D850 does ramp in different priority🤷🏼♂️
@@LondonViewpoints Which camera are you using for the HG? I have a couple of Canons, Mark III and SR, which I am going to try the program mode on. Maybe the order of priority of aperture, time and ISO are different from the Nikon and will do a HG timelapse. We'll see!
How you manage for the Aperture to jump before the shutter. I was looking into my camera and it will prioritize shutter before aperture for some reason. I have a Sony a6600.
Hello thank you for the great video! All other filters are there but LRT5 Full sequence filter is missing in Lightroom? Do you know how to bring it back? Every time I export the time lapse is not in sequence. thank you :-)
Hello there, didn't get the point. If the P mode does the trick why use LRTimelapse to remove the flickering? Perhaps could be my misunderstanding of your workflow because I was under impression that P mode solve the flickering and avoid leverage on tools like LRTimelapse and simplifies the workflows.
Hi, the exposure smoothing option on Nikon cameras does try its best to not make drastic jumps in exposure but even 1/3 stop changes are pleasant in a final video so LRTimelpase smoothes it out to 0.001 steps of exposure changes across multiple frames so you don’t see at all any exposure or aperture flicker👍🏻
Timelapser like me even not completely rely on LRT deflicker feature, if I want the best I will apply some deflicker plugins like Flicker Free to remove very very slight flicker
@@jeremyzhu8885 same here, flicker free is the last resort but it’s the best plugin for the job, however I will try as much as I can do avoid having to go there when I shoot, but sometimes it’s inevitable
Dammit mate, check your emails! 13750? 😂😆 On a more serious note, I've been using LR Timelapse wrong all this time! No wonder I always have flickering 😓 I learned so much from this dude, thanks! 🙌🙏
Thank you for this , really helpful.
You’re most welcome, glad you found it helpful 😀
Very informative Michael and look forward to seeing your workflow in After Effects 👍
I use Bridge+AE workflow, which I think is the best, JPEG photo will take some space to storage, although the processing time will probably be reduced, it adds one more step to the whole processing which is a bit annoying, so I just use AE to render the RAW sequence to ProRes 422 as an intermediate, and render again to 4K h.264 or other form with the music and other effects and do the final adjust to make everything perfect and viewable on social media platform
That’s sounds like a similar way and if it works for you than great, yes I also re-render to h.264 or 265 when I need to share on social but keep prores422 for stock 👍🏻
The corner selection bit is going to save me a lot of angry shouts at my files in the future! :D :D :D
Cheers Michael! See you soon!
Just found your videos and watched them all. I will try the P mode on my Nikon D850 and see if it works like you said. Just shot a holy grail with manual adjustments and it is average quality. Use LRT and LR for processing also. Like your videos.
Glad you found them useful👍🏻should work the same on D850
Hi, great tutorial and timelapse. You mentioned selling timelapses, how and who do you sell them to? Thank you!
For stock I use Blackbox while often I get commissioned to shoot for clients, or clients ask me what I’ve got from a theme and I licence to them directly
These are great thanks for sharing your process!! For the record I'd certainly still be interested in the After Effects image sequence video you were thinking of making :)
Glad you found it useful, that next video is in the works😉Sometime September I recon
Very nice and detailed but you skipped the most important step. Click on the Holy Grail button. What is the best adjustment curve profile for the most uniform result?
Thanks, as explained in the other reply to your comment, the holy grail workflow is best for manual holy grails while this one works best in the standard holy workflow
So, I watched the first part couple months ago and I saved it in my favorite.. and I am glad I did that. Now, just came back to it and found 2 more parts :) I watched them and they are very useful and learned a lot, thanks for sharing it!
Do you think if you change the profile from "Adobe Standard" to "Adobe Landscape" would make a difference specially after the sun rise? I usually do this and I liked the result.
Glad you enjoyed part 2 and 3😀Profile is a personal preference I guess and in raw files you can always change it after, but in a timelapse if you’d change a profile in the middle of it that would be a sudden jump and I don’t think lrt deflicker could smooth it, best to stick to one profile from start to finish 👍🏻
Very much enjoyed your videos. Hard to find non-beginner content. I do have a major quibble and you know what it is. Using the vari ND removes it from the Automatic category. Couldn't you use ISO 800 or 1600 to start? Not sure how to do that. Can you use Program Shift?
But I still enjoyed it. I can't even find much info on the working paramaters for my Sony a7 III.
Thanks, so about the vari ND - you don’t need to use it, I could set it at full 5 stops at so at daytime I have a longer shutter but indeed I would then need to start at something like iso 3200 or more at night depending on the max wide aperture of the lens. Hence I mentioned you don’t need to use it, but it’s something extra I did for this test. However if ever I’m leaving the camera in the hotel to do an fully automatic holy grail because I’m not going to be next to it, that’s exactly what I would do, choose to put a nd on a set at say 3stops or maybe not put it all at all and just let it run👍🏻hope this helps
wich variable ND filter you use becouse how you can touch it without ruin your shot ? and what are your iso settings . thanks for your fantastic tutorial
I use a 1.5-5 stop nisi nano X, it has a level but also clamping the body as tight as possible helps, then iso is on auto with set max shutter speed allowing for a gap to write and move nd if needed
@@LondonViewpoints okay thnkz this filter is not cheap )
@@LondonViewpoints how you set max max shutterspeed in P modus (this is my last question ..promise)
@@voederbietels yes I was in P mode, but not all camera let you set max shutter speed in auto iso settings, while some only up to 1s which isn’t long enough for night time, this is one of the reasons why Z Nikons are best for timelapse
@@LondonViewpoints yeah i have the z62 and z9 they are amazing ) thank you for responding. )
Thanks, YT really has a limited # of time lapsers! Following. Do you use Syrp and/or Timelapse+ View? Those work great together once I figured how to use together 😬
Indeed there’s not that many of timelapse youtubers but it’s a small niche. I use syrp but very rarely to control the camera only to trigger it when on motion controller slider of pan head, when on a tripod i often just use the in body intervalometer
Greetings From SoCal Machel.
I too have been shooting the HG for months now, but never tried your PProgram with the ND. I will try it out. Thanks for the details inside LRT for processing. Why not use LRT render feature and not pay the extra for AE??
Thank you for the helpful video! Is there a reason why you don't use the LRTimelapse exporter at the end to create a video file and then bring it into AE/Premiere and instead export them all as jpegs? Thanks
Glad you found it helpful, I like to pan/tilt/zoom with keyframes in AE so it just skips one rendering step this way, but sometimes I do use the LrT export plugging in Lr
Thank you for this, Michael! Do you plan to make a video about your workflow in AE ?
You’re welcome, so I made the Part 3 video where I edit and export the smooth deflickered jpegs, and in AE I just put them together, sometimes stabilize, other time add motion, I don’t do that much there, but yeah, maybe one day I’ll do a AE timelapse workflow 👍🏻
@@LondonViewpoints in this video on 24:53 you said about smooth transitions in out and pans left or right. I'm very interested how to do this manipulations in AE and I'll be very thankful if you tell about it :)
@@steyle_ ok, I’ve added it to a list of potential future tutorial ideas for a video, not sure when it’ll be done but at some point 👍🏻😀
@@LondonViewpoints thanks !)
@@LondonViewpoints what variable ND filter are you using ?
This is great, thank you - I've enjoyed this three-part series! Subscribed :)
Didn't I read somewhere that changing contrast in LR is a bad idea when processing the keyframes? Gunther Wegner, the LRTimelapse developer, says something about it being a "non-linear" change, which is the sort of thing that it's easy to think I understand without fully understanding it... but I recently also found out about "contrast flicker" (watching videos from Emeric Le Bars), and I wondered whether that was the issue.
Contrast I think it’s fine, never had flicker with just using exposure, contrast, highlights and shadows up to 50 only, but yes that’s the whole idea about not using non-linear adjustments 👍🏻
@@LondonViewpoints As I understand it, contrast flicker results from applying the same contrast processing to very similar (but different) images, with the result that slight differences in the content of the images lead to different overall luminance in the results. It's not something I've ever been aware of until recently, and I think it's usually an extremely subtle issue that would go unnoticed by many. Emeric seems to have extremely high standards! But lots of perfectly good time lapses have *some* flicker in them, so it's probably a question of how fussy you want to get :)
Thank you for replying to my comments, I do appreciate it!
Michael, what was your f-stop thru this? Did you let camera choose, the sun is nicely star’d!
On a night to day it started at 4 while iso was still above 100, then when it reached 100 f stop goes to max and only then shutter starts getting faster and it reached f16 before the sun appeared hence it was nice and star shaped👍🏻
Nice work Michael! Where do you sell your timelapses? How well do they sell?
Thank you, I'll check it out. 👍
The same question... I don't see the answer
High im running a Nikon D810 and tried out the program mode after looking at one of your tutorials, when I got back and loaded it up in LRT it was very spiky and lots of flicker, could you possibly give me an explanation of why this might have happed and if possible do an abc of the set up I know you have explained it well on your video but im not sure where i went wrong. keep up the good work I do love your tutorials.
Hi, so P mode works best if you have timelapse mode with exposure smoothing, as otherwise of you jsut use an external intervalometer it will expose for whatever is the scene, if a light suddenly comes in it will expose for that, aperterue flicker will be present as you’re using the full range f22-4 or so, so that you have to deal with when deflickering. If you’d like an even detailed tutorial, I do offer paid 1 on 1 zoom calls , email me to discuss more 👍🏻
@@LondonViewpoints thank you for getting back to me. It seems I was doing things right and will persivere for the time being. I will try a different lens as at the time I was using my fisheye and I think the focus was on a liner in the bat with its lights coming on and also swinging in the tide. I do alot of timelapse photography on manuel but listening to you I was impressed how you do it and get fantastic results. So thank you again for getting back to me and I will be in touch in the near future.
@@atlantis4563 the thing with dslr and F lenses versus Z with native Z lenses is that on Z all the vignette and corrections get applied straight to the file, so with apertures moving throughout the P mode timelapse you don’t see the jumps in corrections while on dslr with f lenses you would
Tried two holy grail timlapses, one with a fixed ISO and another with auto ISO. Both were sunset to dark, the first, was great until dark and then it took too dark of pics to recover - too low ISO setting I think. The second HG sunset to dark, looked great until dark but then all pics were too dark to use even though it maxed out the ISO at 25400. OF course it was extremely grainy. For some reason the lowest pic time was .5 sec on this one when it should have gone to several seconds. It seems that the D850 has the wrong priority of ISO first and time next. Still trying to figure this out. Used a 10 sec interval on first try and 20 sec interval on no. 2.
Only 0.5s on D850 ? That doesn’t sound right, however I did have some issues indeed myself when trying the D850 on loan, I was back than using Qdlsr dashboard to automatically ramp settings and it failed me many times where middle of the timelapse it just stopped changing settings and things went too overexposed or to dark. Best to try P mode at home in photo preview mode by pointing from dark to light park of a room and seeing how the settings change. Maybe D850 does ramp in different priority🤷🏼♂️
@@LondonViewpoints Which camera are you using for the HG? I have a couple of Canons, Mark III and SR, which I am going to try the program mode on. Maybe the order of priority of aperture, time and ISO are different from the Nikon and will do a HG timelapse. We'll see!
John S. Earl, Jr. nikon Z6 👍🏻 beat camera for timelapse work imho
How you manage for the Aperture to jump before the shutter. I was looking into my camera and it will prioritize shutter before aperture for some reason. I have a Sony a6600.
On Nikon in P mode it will do it in the correct holy grail timelapse order but don’t know the order on other brands and bodies 🤷🏼♂️
Hello thank you for the great video! All other filters are there but LRT5 Full sequence filter is missing in Lightroom? Do you know how to bring it back? Every time I export the time lapse is not in sequence. thank you :-)
Hey, no idea, best to ask the creator of LRT, that is if you have the paid version that allows you for support
Hello there, didn't get the point. If the P mode does the trick why use LRTimelapse to remove the flickering? Perhaps could be my misunderstanding of your workflow because I was under impression that P mode solve the flickering and avoid leverage on tools like LRTimelapse and simplifies the workflows.
Hi, the exposure smoothing option on Nikon cameras does try its best to not make drastic jumps in exposure but even 1/3 stop changes are pleasant in a final video so LRTimelpase smoothes it out to 0.001 steps of exposure changes across multiple frames so you don’t see at all any exposure or aperture flicker👍🏻
@@LondonViewpoints ok, got it now. Thanks.
Timelapser like me even not completely rely on LRT deflicker feature, if I want the best I will apply some deflicker plugins like Flicker Free to remove very very slight flicker
@@jeremyzhu8885 same here, flicker free is the last resort but it’s the best plugin for the job, however I will try as much as I can do avoid having to go there when I shoot, but sometimes it’s inevitable
What was the interval? smth around 30 seconds?
12 or something like that if I render well
First comment! 😘
@@LondonViewpoints it's definitely a thing!