One quick note: in order to see your keyframes in LRC, you need to "Add" instead of "Copy" your photos into LRC.Thank you for making this tutorial, it has been really helpful.
Thanks for your tutorial of the holy grail timelapse. I found your tuturial is probably the most comprehensive and easy to understand one. Liked and sub.
Great vid mate. I’ve been watching lots of them and all do the same process pretty much. But I did a timelapse today and the flickering makes it unusable. I’m using the free version and I’m thinking that in the free version it doesn’t allow the speed ramps to be smoothed out. It doesn’t matter what I do it makes no difference. Any thoughts ?? Thank you
When I did a time lapse with a high interval (6secs) for clouds, 1/50 sec shutter speed the boats and planes looked terrible like gerky. Not sure how yours don’t look gerky like mine...
Oh true! It can definitely happen, especially if something is moving quite quickly, waves for instance. Here I’m quite far away from the boats so that helped. But definitely slowing down the shutter more will help too, ND filter sometimes needed!
@tknorth Any reason why it won't be advisable to just use aperture priority. Yes there will be some minor flicker but that's supposed to be smoothed out by LRT. Please advice.
Basically two main reasons for me 1. You have far less control over your shutter speed - it will often either start really fast (looking jittery without smooth motion blur) or end too slow (really increasing your interval and ramping the speed of the timelapse. I still use this if I’m not available to change my settings or sometimes I’ll still just change the ISO for example. If the light isn’t changing as much it can still be super useful though. 2. LRtimelapse is great as getting rid of the flickering, but it’s not perfect. If the light is changing a lot, eg sun going in and out behind clouds / buildings, it will really start to jump around all over the place. A manual sequence will have a much smoother luminance curve making it much easier for the software to process and fix any flicker in post. So ultimately depends a bit on the scene - sometimes you’ll get a similar result, but sometimes it just won’t look anywhere as nice and no where near as smooth. Trade off I guess. Often you’ll get a much better Timelapse just a bit more effort involved. I do regularly use both though! Hope that’s helpful 🙂
@@TKNORTH Gunther had a app for ramping exposure and other settings (based on geo location). But iTunes removed it, so I am stuck to easy mode A priority :)
is there a way to shoot in a mode where you don’t have to periodically change camera settings like aperture priority or shutter and get the same results. just fix flicker etc in LRT?
You sure can! Flickering as you mentioned you can usually fix, but the motion itself won’t look anywhere near as smooth. Especially on a sequences like this one where the light changes quite dramatically. So it’s just a bit of a trade off which is more important/practical for you depending on the situation. Aperture priority can work great, I use it a lot especially when the light is changing less. Or if I know for whatever reason I won’t be able to stand by and change the settings I’ll still use it. But where possible I’ll stick to this method as you’ll get a much better end result and can be worth the extra effort 👍🏼
Hi there! It’s really hard to know without seeing your computer so I have a couple of things you can check just to make sure... 1. Make sure you’re on the right visual workflow tab in LRtimelapse. 2. Make sure the sequence was shot correctly all in manual and not adjusting too quickly (this means it should automatically recognise it as a holy grail clip). 3. Make sure you’re on the latest version of LRTimelapse, this way you can always select “force holy grail sequence”. 4. Even if it was shot in aperture priority or other methods not using the holy grail curve you should still be able to level it out quite a lot and get rid of a lot of the flickering just at the final stage by using the Deflicker! Not sure if you’ve tried and checked all these things but they are all I can suggest 🤞🏻
@@TKNORTH You won't believe what was the problem... The folder that contained the set of pictures had special characters (é, á, ü...), since I'm not English, and name them using my mother language. I don't know how , but as a last resort I changed it, and now all is back on track again.
One quick note: in order to see your keyframes in LRC, you need to "Add" instead of "Copy" your photos into LRC.Thank you for making this tutorial, it has been really helpful.
This tutorial is so good!
Needed this bro! Thank you!!!
Cheers my dude!
This tutorial is perfect to start with. Greetings from Spain
Thanks for your tutorial of the holy grail timelapse. I found your tuturial is probably the most comprehensive and easy to understand one. Liked and sub.
Great to stumble across your Brissy Timelapse!
Thanks so much dude! Wasn't the best day for one with such a clear sky, but it's a great spot for it! Keen to visit again!
This was very helpful. Thank you
ayeee nice tutorial dude!
Thanks so much dude!
Super comprehensive mate!
thanks my dude!
That was a great quick and informative tutorial. Finally have the new MacBook and have a bunch of timelapses to put together. Thanks
Thanks so much dude! So glad you found it useful. It will definitely speed up your workflow working on a new macbook :) hope it goes well!
Really loving all of your tutorials. Keep up the great work :)
Thanks so much Marty! So glad you're finding them useful!
@@TKNORTH doe stimelapse 6.01 not read canon .cr3 files?
Great vid mate. I’ve been watching lots of them and all do the same process pretty much. But I did a timelapse today and the flickering makes it unusable. I’m using the free version and I’m thinking that in the free version it doesn’t allow the speed ramps to be smoothed out. It doesn’t matter what I do it makes no difference. Any thoughts ?? Thank you
When I did a time lapse with a high interval (6secs) for clouds, 1/50 sec shutter speed the boats and planes looked terrible like gerky. Not sure how yours don’t look gerky like mine...
Oh true! It can definitely happen, especially if something is moving quite quickly, waves for instance. Here I’m quite far away from the boats so that helped. But definitely slowing down the shutter more will help too, ND filter sometimes needed!
@tknorth Any reason why it won't be advisable to just use aperture priority. Yes there will be some minor flicker but that's supposed to be smoothed out by LRT. Please advice.
Basically two main reasons for me
1. You have far less control over your shutter speed - it will often either start really fast (looking jittery without smooth motion blur) or end too slow (really increasing your interval and ramping the speed of the timelapse. I still use this if I’m not available to change my settings or sometimes I’ll still just change the ISO for example. If the light isn’t changing as much it can still be super useful though.
2. LRtimelapse is great as getting rid of the flickering, but it’s not perfect. If the light is changing a lot, eg sun going in and out behind clouds / buildings, it will really start to jump around all over the place. A manual sequence will have a much smoother luminance curve making it much easier for the software to process and fix any flicker in post. So ultimately depends a bit on the scene - sometimes you’ll get a similar result, but sometimes it just won’t look anywhere as nice and no where near as smooth.
Trade off I guess. Often you’ll get a much better Timelapse just a bit more effort involved. I do regularly use both though! Hope that’s helpful 🙂
@@TKNORTH Gunther had a app for ramping exposure and other settings (based on geo location). But iTunes removed it, so I am stuck to easy mode A priority :)
Genial 🌟💪📸
Great composition, it would be nice if you remove that bird in the final video!
is there a way to shoot in a mode where you don’t have to periodically change camera settings like aperture priority or shutter and get the same results. just fix flicker etc in LRT?
You sure can! Flickering as you mentioned you can usually fix, but the motion itself won’t look anywhere near as smooth. Especially on a sequences like this one where the light changes quite dramatically. So it’s just a bit of a trade off which is more important/practical for you depending on the situation.
Aperture priority can work great, I use it a lot especially when the light is changing less. Or if I know for whatever reason I won’t be able to stand by and change the settings I’ll still use it. But where possible I’ll stick to this method as you’ll get a much better end result and can be worth the extra effort 👍🏼
man i suck at timelapses haha
Hello! My holy grail curve doesn't show up for some reason, thus the light bumps still remain after editing. Does anyone know a solution?
Hi there! It’s really hard to know without seeing your computer so I have a couple of things you can check just to make sure... 1. Make sure you’re on the right visual workflow tab in LRtimelapse. 2. Make sure the sequence was shot correctly all in manual and not adjusting too quickly (this means it should automatically recognise it as a holy grail clip). 3. Make sure you’re on the latest version of LRTimelapse, this way you can always select “force holy grail sequence”. 4. Even if it was shot in aperture priority or other methods not using the holy grail curve you should still be able to level it out quite a lot and get rid of a lot of the flickering just at the final stage by using the Deflicker!
Not sure if you’ve tried and checked all these things but they are all I can suggest 🤞🏻
Thanks, will check!
@@TKNORTH You won't believe what was the problem... The folder that contained the set of pictures had special characters (é, á, ü...), since I'm not English, and name them using my mother language. I don't know how , but as a last resort I changed it, and now all is back on track again.
BTW, great vid, thanks.
This is too confusing :(