Your videos have provided a lot of useful information and tips that I'm sure I will utilize when I finally start my 280zx build. I'm just now in the tear down phase, so it'll be a while, but it definitely helps having more insight and a different view of what can be done. Thank you!
I might be wrong, but I'm pretty sure any of the AN fittings require a different flare. I'm pretty sure any of the hard lines that go to a AN fitting. They use the tube nut and sleeve like you showed but they require a single 37 degree flare. That takes a different flaring tool then the one you use for a standard double or bubble flare.
Just a few things i picked up from others, passing it along, might be useful, might be not. -To get your line straight (always start with straight line) get two pieces of MDF (they can be, i dunno, 30x30 cm big) and between them, roll the line as you manually unspool it. Take long slow swings at it, with moderate pressure (adjust as needed) and the line will naturally become straight. As you do a section, advance the line so 10 cm of the straightened line remains under the MDF pieces and continue until you have your length. -Unsure if you did or not do this, but, i would go the hardware store and get about 3 meters of the thickest single strand wire you can find (if you can get 3 mm, that's perfect). You're only going to buy this once. Using the MDF boards method, get it straight, and use IT to determine the path you want to make with your line. Then, using an assortment of mugs, cups, body spray metal cans, bend the actual line to follow your electric conductor jig. -To get perfect curves you do this: first you establish where the line needs to bend, pinch the line against the radius of choice with a firm grip with one hand, then, using your thumb and some lubrication of your choice, swing over the line in one continuous firm motion. Once you perfect this, understand that is how you do it, you'll get the best brake or fuel lines ever. -A word of warning regarding such hard lines, for your safety do not repeat a bend more then 3 times. Work stressing the metal makes it prone to failure. You're better off using an union to patch a new section than to have the line burst. -Extra tip: you can wrap your solid lines in shrink tape (you can buy the stuff by the spool, just make sure you have the right size for your line (IE with the heat gun, when it shrinks, it shrinks well against the line). At either end of such a cover, you put a dab of superglue to make sure it stays put. This will protect the lines from corrosion and mild abrasion. I usually use the best kind electricians get which is the one that's really thick almost a mm thick and has glue inside that activates with heat. I've used it on lines like that my anti-roll bars and most of the suspension components that allow me to slide a sleeve like that on. Excellent rust or corrosion deterrent, and like i said, mild friction wear protection as well.
I really like how you utilized the line lock. I want to put a hydro into Hell-Z and was wondering how to get around it for use as an e-brake. well done
Yeah dam. I saw this vid and was hoping you found some kind of standalone handbrake. I kind of want to avoid using a line lock. They aren't great for long term use :(
Fantastic work, I’m loving this build, great info thank you
Your videos have provided a lot of useful information and tips that I'm sure I will utilize when I finally start my 280zx build. I'm just now in the tear down phase, so it'll be a while, but it definitely helps having more insight and a different view of what can be done. Thank you!
How's the brake booster delete been working for you? Brake better ?
It's been great watching your increased confidence (and ability) with welding. Nice work!
Hey thanks. It’s been a long journey. You reminded me I did first learn to weld on this car. Those floor pans....
I might be wrong, but I'm pretty sure any of the AN fittings require a different flare. I'm pretty sure any of the hard lines that go to a AN fitting. They use the tube nut and sleeve like you showed but they require a single 37 degree flare. That takes a different flaring tool then the one you use for a standard double or bubble flare.
Just a few things i picked up from others, passing it along, might be useful, might be not.
-To get your line straight (always start with straight line) get two pieces of MDF (they can be, i dunno, 30x30 cm big) and between them, roll the line as you manually unspool it. Take long slow swings at it, with moderate pressure (adjust as needed) and the line will naturally become straight. As you do a section, advance the line so 10 cm of the straightened line remains under the MDF pieces and continue until you have your length.
-Unsure if you did or not do this, but, i would go the hardware store and get about 3 meters of the thickest single strand wire you can find (if you can get 3 mm, that's perfect). You're only going to buy this once.
Using the MDF boards method, get it straight, and use IT to determine the path you want to make with your line. Then, using an assortment of mugs, cups, body spray metal cans, bend the actual line to follow your electric conductor jig.
-To get perfect curves you do this: first you establish where the line needs to bend, pinch the line against the radius of choice with a firm grip with one hand, then, using your thumb and some lubrication of your choice, swing over the line in one continuous firm motion.
Once you perfect this, understand that is how you do it, you'll get the best brake or fuel lines ever.
-A word of warning regarding such hard lines, for your safety do not repeat a bend more then 3 times. Work stressing the metal makes it prone to failure. You're better off using an union to patch a new section than to have the line burst.
-Extra tip: you can wrap your solid lines in shrink tape (you can buy the stuff by the spool, just make sure you have the right size for your line (IE with the heat gun, when it shrinks, it shrinks well against the line). At either end of such a cover, you put a dab of superglue to make sure it stays put. This will protect the lines from corrosion and mild abrasion. I usually use the best kind electricians get which is the one that's really thick almost a mm thick and has glue inside that activates with heat.
I've used it on lines like that my anti-roll bars and most of the suspension components that allow me to slide a sleeve like that on. Excellent rust or corrosion deterrent, and like i said, mild friction wear protection as well.
Great video on brakes man good job 👌
What is that Steering column you’re using
Stock column but I shortened it about 3 inches. It’s got a nrg quick release adapter.
I really like how you utilized the line lock. I want to put a hydro into Hell-Z and was wondering how to get around it for use as an e-brake. well done
Thanks! It was either the line lock or a prop rod for the hydro ha
Yeah dam. I saw this vid and was hoping you found some kind of standalone handbrake. I kind of want to avoid using a line lock. They aren't great for long term use :(
Yea I’ll have to see. If it can’t hold pressure for a decent amount of time I’ll have to go a different route. I’ll do a follow up on that.
Love the video. How has the line lock held up cause I'm planning on going hydro myself and be nice if I can have a locking e-brake
Thanks, and it was crap. Leaked and I had to remove it. If you go with one, don’t get the one I got. Cheap on eBay.
what fender flares are those?
Just a cheap eBay set
Realy nice and neat work, looks great!
Love your videos homie keep up the good work 👍🏾👍🏾
Nice job bro bro looks really good keep going iam working on my r32 2jz right
I use silicone hose on my brake lines
Three fourths lol