@@Motorsportkyle you only just recently went to a looser converter because it wasn't building boost on the 2 step didn't you? So, maybe back to the old converter and a few more cubes in the motor? Or a converter with a stall in between the old one and this one?
I run a sbf 9.5 deck 468ci with a glide and a f1x but listen Kyle your blowing threw the converter. Look at your gear change and see what the rpm does, if it doesn't drop and just keeps raising your smoking threw the converter. Love seeing you Ford loyal and love the channel.
Take this for what it worth. Your the only guy with a SBF and reputation these days. You dads shop is top notch and respected by the entire racing community. With that said I hope you keep the SBF a priority for the rest of us ford fans. Thanks
Plumb the lifter valley from the real cam bearing to the rear main valley, old circle track trick to provide better oiling to to the mains and pull oil out of the top end with the restrictor. Love to see a conventional Ford racing!
Thank you for the consistent uploads! There are few channels I enjoy as much as yours and your dad’s, so having something to look forward to coming home to after work is more than appreciated 🙌🏻 They closed the only drag strip here in Salt Lake, so you’ve gotta drive hours to see anything like this!
Kyle, maybe like you said the oil is not getting returned to the pan. work on either adding a vent from crankcase to head so the cover is not "vapor locked" or the main oil return path is not sufficient.
Kyle, have you looked at the Boss Clevland type Ford Engines, they do alot with them in Australia. then you could do a Dart Ford 351C block & put a pair of Kaase P-51d Cylinder Heads, then add a Torqstorm. Run a oil pump from the Can back into the Engine so it Wont fill Up.
Good coverage, you cant fix all your issues or you won't have any content!! I respect the honesty when you or your dad try things that don't work like you hoped. So many people just ignore the bad decisions.
@@metalted6128 I guess that comment went over your head. And drop the not a car guy BS ok. It makes you sound like a chump. Car culture is the opposite of the attitude you are showing.
Love this shit Kyle. I'm prly one of the few that still run my SBF in my Fox. My engine was built 2007 with the first new Boss block that went threw the dude Machine shop. Eagle crank/rods, w/ CP 20cc dish pistons. 8.5cr with AFR 185 heads, and an china knock off of the eledbrok EFI intake manifold with just a straight 90 ontop that feeds the boost in. China billitt BB 78/75 turbo. Still running the 83lbs injectors that were a god send back then that just came out. And I just put a fresh T56 magnum in!
If it has a C4 in it? It will only be good for 20 passes,if that.. Im a ford man threw and threw! Needs a turbo 400 two speed!! And billet converter. Just tryen to help. Your channel kicks Ass your friend and fellow machine man Brian P
16:58 Boosted engines have blowby, and that air goes where there's a leak. (vent hose) If you only vent one valve cover, all that air is going up the same area where the valvetrain oil is trying to return to the lifter valley, and it's taking the oil with it because it has pressure whereas the oil is relying on gravity.
I take it the oil breather hole in the valve cover isn’t located over a rocker arm. A lot of factory holes in valve covers are like this and causes them to puke oil out I believe. Don’t know why they don’t locate them in a dead spot between two cylinders and not right over two rockers. You could try putting a hole in the intake valley and bath it through there. 🤷🏼
As said .... it NEEDS a lifter restrictor kit, my high rpm Clevo had similar issue , we also did the obvious internal block prep to assist oil return to sump and not collect Up top... VC baffling will atleast stop the fluid and still breath...
LOL Dewey the growler. Congrats on working through the oil slinging issue. On a more serious note on that 50BMG upper - Wear eye pro and don't put your support hand forward of the breach. If that thing lets go, you'll lose the left hand or arm. Take your left hand and place it under the heel of the stock with the palm facing your shoulder while pinching the stock between your thumb and fingers. Opposite of hand over the heart during the National Anthem, if you will. Cheers!
not sure that was intentional when you showed the data log but the image of you talking in the reflection was very cool and damn you talk just like your take Good stuff man and thanks
I have several Dart blocked SBFs one with Tilton external pump. I chased all types of catch cans too. It was literally filling the valve covers w oil. I ran lines to oil pan stuck steel wool in breathers. Just too much oil up top to control. Check how much oil is ending up at top. I didn't have blow issues either ,but would fill the cans with oil!. E85 engine ,not Methanol.
Struggling about the charging voltage being too high. Datalog should be monitoring voltage and unless the regulator isn’t working properly, (assuming a 12V system) the voltage should be a bit lower than 15V and most race electronics are rated at 16+V. Please keep us informed. Great stuff!
you have to put a baffle of some sort inside that valve cover ive ran fords all my life and thats helped me more than anything and pack that fitting with some steel wool!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wow e85 7.9 afr non intercooled with 30 psi? Thats like 12.0 on the gas scale. Just kinda surprised to see that afr non intercooled but obviously it works. Thank you for sharing.
do a leak down on each cylinder before you decide to put restrictors in the lifters--excessive blowby can cause the catch cans to fill too. also does the valve covers have baffles to deflect the oil spray?
@Kyle Morris, have you tried the Motion breather tanks..? They're baffled, so technically they shouldn't let any oil come back out of the can. They're pricey, but hopefully they work, as I bought one for my Camaro.
Is dome pressure sensor directly on the gate? data looks very chopppy. take it off and just add a little 3-4 inch line from top of gate to the sensor. if u want buy one of the Rife Back pressure canisters and put it inline from gate to sensor.
Idk know what heads u have but I recently had a problem with some trick flow and the head gasket oil drain back weren’t aligned vary well drilled the gaskets out and problem solved
Are your heads machined for drains and AN fittings? I know a lot of people put drains in the heads below the valve cover rail to keep from filling the heads with oil at high RPM.
This wont help you for the weekend, but yes the oil restriction will help. Also I have no idea to what block work you've done but I like to smooth block and heads where oil flows. Increase drain hole sizes as well as round any corners etc, same as porting. Not sure if this helps ya or not
I like pavement too,but in the pits it sucks,it's black,black attracts heat,heat is bad,so,I was the owner of a track,pits would be concrete, or I'd top coat the pavement a light color,light the color of top coat for roofing,cream color like
Could if be the 2 holes in each vulve cover there in the front of each one maybe blowing air through them and when oil gets up in ur vulve cover it blows out the lines n puke tank possibly have ya tried fifferent vulve covers that dont have them holes n em like that maybe that would change ur results more idk or i stupid which i definitely am that no doubt
Just curious if you guys log crankcase pressure? I've noticed allot of promod type cars with the puke tank in the back flowing quite a bit of steam/smoke out of them when they are staging the car.
Sounds like you need a tighter converter, hardly any if any shift drop. Car leaves good but has to much slip and more power will only make it worse.
Was gonna say I seen the shifter move but the engine didnt seem to drop rpm or change tone at all.
TuneEmAll out here doing just that 🤙🏼
Yeah out there sounding like a snowmobile centrifugal clutch
😂
@@Motorsportkyle you only just recently went to a looser converter because it wasn't building boost on the 2 step didn't you? So, maybe back to the old converter and a few more cubes in the motor? Or a converter with a stall in between the old one and this one?
I run a sbf 9.5 deck 468ci with a glide and a f1x but listen Kyle your blowing threw the converter. Look at your gear change and see what the rpm does, if it doesn't drop and just keeps raising your smoking threw the converter. Love seeing you Ford loyal and love the channel.
Take this for what it worth. Your the only guy with a SBF and reputation these days. You dads shop is top notch and respected by the entire racing community. With that said I hope you keep the SBF a priority for the rest of us ford fans. Thanks
I like seeing a Ford running a Ford engine!
Your a breath of fresh air kid love your channel
Incredible what you are doing with your SBF.
So awesome!!
Plumb the lifter valley from the real cam bearing to the rear main valley, old circle track trick to provide better oiling to to the mains and pull oil out of the top end with the restrictor. Love to see a conventional Ford racing!
Thank you for the consistent uploads! There are few channels I enjoy as much as yours and your dad’s, so having something to look forward to coming home to after work is more than appreciated 🙌🏻 They closed the only drag strip here in Salt Lake, so you’ve gotta drive hours to see anything like this!
Love that you are following in the footsteps of your pops. You have one hell of a mentor, and please continue to keep up the great work!
Kyle, maybe like you said the oil is not getting returned to the pan. work on either adding a vent from crankcase to head so the cover is not "vapor locked" or the main oil return path is not sufficient.
Kyle, have you looked at the Boss Clevland type Ford Engines, they do alot with them in Australia. then you could do a Dart Ford 351C block & put a pair of Kaase P-51d Cylinder Heads, then add a Torqstorm. Run a oil pump from the Can back into the Engine so it Wont fill Up.
Hey Kyle thanks for your help with my vette. About all I would try is a twice the size puke tank mounted in the trunk. The stang is running good.
Send it Kyle! The tune, that is. Love your Mustang content.
Good coverage, you cant fix all your issues or you won't have any content!! I respect the honesty when you or your dad try things that don't work like you hoped. So many people just ignore the bad decisions.
Kyle is a racer first , content second!!!
You’re not a car guy are ya???
@@metalted6128 I guess that went over your head. Or you're just looking for a reason to bitch at someone.
@@metalted6128 I guess that comment went over your head. And drop the not a car guy BS ok. It makes you sound like a chump. Car culture is the opposite of the attitude you are showing.
@@metalted6128 really?
In the big semi trucks we have a line it go's back into the oil pan and yes we run a small oil filter
113 👍's up Kyle Morris thank you for sharing 🤗
Dry sump oiling setup would fix it 😂 awesome video 👍
Awesome video and keep living the dream ✨️
Love this shit Kyle. I'm prly one of the few that still run my SBF in my Fox. My engine was built 2007 with the first new Boss block that went threw the dude Machine shop. Eagle crank/rods, w/ CP 20cc dish pistons. 8.5cr with AFR 185 heads, and an china knock off of the eledbrok EFI intake manifold with just a straight 90 ontop that feeds the boost in. China billitt BB 78/75 turbo. Still running the 83lbs injectors that were a god send back then that just came out. And I just put a fresh T56 magnum in!
Those sunglasses are the most ridiculous trend... 😂
Been waiting for this video!!
Great job Kyle!!!
Love your mustang!!
Hey Kyle, id try to mount the catch can up at the front core support and maybe the forward momentum will help keep the oil out better.
I've contemplated smaller oil holes in pushrods, like old school solid lifter BBC using pipecleaners.
@2:20 great Dewey picture 👍👍
If it has a C4 in it? It will only be good for 20 passes,if that.. Im a ford man threw and threw! Needs a turbo 400 two speed!! And billet converter. Just tryen to help. Your channel kicks Ass your friend and fellow machine man Brian P
I support you man,
You are killin it !!!!
Good job!
Im a Kyle too. lol
16:58 Boosted engines have blowby, and that air goes where there's a leak. (vent hose) If you only vent one valve cover, all that air is going up the same area where the valvetrain oil is trying to return to the lifter valley, and it's taking the oil with it because it has pressure whereas the oil is relying on gravity.
You could build a can with double the capacity. Then plumb it so you can drain it back to the pan after the pass.
I take it the oil breather hole in the valve cover isn’t located over a rocker arm. A lot of factory holes in valve covers are like this and causes them to puke oil out I believe. Don’t know why they don’t locate them in a dead spot between two cylinders and not right over two rockers. You could try putting a hole in the intake valley and bath it through there. 🤷🏼
Kyle I have ran the restrictors with sucess ihave also had to install a external drain in back of head back to the pan
Kyle and Dewey, y'all rock! Peace
As said .... it NEEDS a lifter restrictor kit, my high rpm Clevo had similar issue , we also did the obvious internal block prep to assist oil return to sump and not collect Up top... VC baffling will atleast stop the fluid and still breath...
LOL Dewey the growler.
Congrats on working through the oil slinging issue. On a more serious note on that 50BMG upper - Wear eye pro and don't put your support hand forward of the breach. If that thing lets go, you'll lose the left hand or arm. Take your left hand and place it under the heel of the stock with the palm facing your shoulder while pinching the stock between your thumb and fingers. Opposite of hand over the heart during the National Anthem, if you will.
Cheers!
I ran a 10 an line from back of valve cover to oil pan to get oil back to pan faster. Still need to test it though.
not sure that was intentional when you showed the data log but the image of you talking in the reflection was very cool and damn you talk just like your take
Good stuff man and thanks
talking about the 18:30 mark neat
I have several Dart blocked SBFs one with Tilton external pump. I chased all types of catch cans too. It was literally filling the valve covers w oil. I ran lines to oil pan stuck steel wool in breathers. Just too much oil up top to control. Check how much oil is ending up at top. I didn't have blow issues either ,but would fill the cans with oil!. E85 engine ,not Methanol.
Hey brother Kyle, move the tank to the trunk with 2 number 12 lines
Very cool video. Hope you do well tommorow. Kind regards Rex in NZ
Love the Ford content.
Good camera work 👍
That 347 sounds awesome 👌
Are those sunglasses supposed to be a joke? I am definitely laughing!
We drill a .5mm hole in the side of the pushrods on the engines that were filling the top end with oil.
Awesome video Kyle kepp up the good content
Nice job Kyle.
Struggling about the charging voltage being too high. Datalog should be monitoring voltage and unless the regulator isn’t working properly, (assuming a 12V system) the voltage should be a bit lower than 15V and most race electronics are rated at 16+V. Please keep us informed. Great stuff!
May overspin the alternator with race rpm and pulley size.
Wouldn’t be a voltage issue if the regulator is doing its job.
you have to put a baffle of some sort inside that valve cover ive ran fords all my life and thats helped me more than anything and pack that fitting with some steel wool!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wow e85 7.9 afr non intercooled with 30 psi? Thats like 12.0 on the gas scale. Just kinda surprised to see that afr non intercooled but obviously it works. Thank you for sharing.
Cant you do a return half way up on the tank for the oil to get back in the engine?
You'll get there Kyle
do a leak down on each cylinder before you decide to put restrictors in the lifters--excessive blowby can cause the catch cans to fill too. also does the valve covers have baffles to deflect the oil spray?
@Kyle Morris, have you tried the Motion breather tanks..? They're baffled, so technically they shouldn't let any oil come back out of the can. They're pricey, but hopefully they work, as I bought one for my Camaro.
Could you make a video of your engine combo? Or atleast trow some info about in it in a video?
Is dome pressure sensor directly on the gate? data looks very chopppy. take it off and just add a little 3-4 inch line from top of gate to the sensor. if u want buy one of the Rife Back pressure canisters and put it inline from gate to sensor.
I watch every video 💯 I can't wait to see you beat your old man's PB👍🏻
Love the stud girdle
Love the channel
Keep up the great work
@Kyle is your engine oiling system dry sump or wet? Love the Channel!
What about a tighter converter and do what you dad did with a boost valve
For a young man that works with his hands I would recommend you wearing gloves when you race Take it from somebody who's been racing for 40 years.
Idk know what heads u have but I recently had a problem with some trick flow and the head gasket oil drain back weren’t aligned vary well drilled the gaskets out and problem solved
Kyle are you still running the coated pistons? i think they were line to line im not sure !!
Love it Kyle!!! 🇺🇲🫡 thanks for your support Bro!
Hey.
I seen Morgan 😉
Bro. Those shades LOL
Great video Kyle 👍👍
After this sbf you should build a junkyard style mutt 5.0
fun video. i like knowing what your thinkin
Absolutely disrespected the tree at 21:30 😂😂😂😂😂
Think John doc had his catch can catch on fire😂
Are your heads machined for drains and AN fittings? I know a lot of people put drains in the heads below the valve cover rail to keep from filling the heads with oil at high RPM.
I really like norwalk that where i popped my 1/4mile cherry back in 2000 at the dsm shootout.😂
Build you a puke tank for the trunk and a breather tube out top of trunk and run both valve cover breather hoses back to trunk
This wont help you for the weekend, but yes the oil restriction will help. Also I have no idea to what block work you've done but I like to smooth block and heads where oil flows. Increase drain hole sizes as well as round any corners etc, same as porting. Not sure if this helps ya or not
That Duster ran 4.56 against TB. About a second quicker.......
Not trolling. Paying attention to ETs. Keep up the good work.
@@davidsawyer1599 yeah at the time i hadnt seen him run yet hes way faster lol
Until I put a baffle in the valve cover I never could keep from filling up the catch can
Keep having fun
placing puke tank inline with front and or back tires interesting.
Great content thanks for sharing
no extra stators to try out in that mobile service center yall call a trailer? :D
I like pavement too,but in the pits it sucks,it's black,black attracts heat,heat is bad,so,I was the owner of a track,pits would be concrete, or I'd top coat the pavement a light color,light the color of top coat for roofing,cream color like
Talk, talk, talk, talk do it right and run, run, run
I think if you run the pike tank all the way to the back of the car it’ll be fine !
Where can I buy that hat?? Camouflage and blue.
Should be on Boostmastermerch.com
Hell yeah boys have a badass memorial day ok later 😎🏁💪🏼
Could if be the 2 holes in each vulve cover there in the front of each one maybe blowing air through them and when oil gets up in ur vulve cover it blows out the lines n puke tank possibly have ya tried fifferent vulve covers that dont have them holes n em like that maybe that would change ur results more idk or i stupid which i definitely am that no doubt
It's strange to see a mustang with a Ford motor 🍻
Check out Aldo welds billet catch can. It's awesome!
It insane how alike Steve and Kyle are
Only one sperm apart. Lol
Does your ECU don't have like a switch where you can change the software tune, like Haltech has?
Make the returns larger when you freshen it up, this an old problem.
Boost fixes everything , if not ,add nitrous !
Whats the black plug thing at :35 seconds is that an air vent for the vulve cover
Just curious if you guys log crankcase pressure? I've noticed allot of promod type cars with the puke tank in the back flowing quite a bit of steam/smoke out of them when they are staging the car.
How much voltage is too much voltage? I'd expect everything to work until at least 16 without issue.
This was at 19 volts
List your background music please, it's good!
Just curious, why not a 351 based engine?
What do you run in the 1/4 mile?
That's a tiny tank for an engine that size.
Converter slippage
You should run an sml in your car dad has the smx big tire you need sml small tire
Maybe dry sump it.