Meaney is the man, I'm glad to see him get his face out there. We're signed up for his online class and it's helped us transition people into the design role so much. Good to see you Mean Man!
This is America and you can do whatever you want😂!!!! That’s a blessing to be free! I have to say from watching and listening to experts I decided to try something. I now leave my house at 74 degrees and 45-50% humidity 24/7. We used to come home and cool the house down from 78-79 it got to with the A/C set on 82. We ran it at 71 degrees at night. After testing this, after about a few days we realized 74 feels just as cool as 71 because everything in the room was already cool! We have always ran our ceiling fan on high also. It never saved electricity running the temperature up when we were at work either because the ventilating dehumidifier ran anyway, then we were on stage 2 on the A/C to pull down the temp. We use less electricity actually and we are way more comfortable leaving the house at the same temperature and humidity all the time! Plus, the air conditioner running helps the humidity anyway.
teaching the customer is a big part of many trades. heat pumps are fairly new here (~20 years or so) and HVAC is rare, and every year there is media articles to teach people how to heat homes. people still expect to turn on a heat pump and be instantly warm, and complain about the running cost because now they are heating a room, not just the spot they are sitting in. teaching thermal mass, dehumidification etc is interesting at times.
I am one that prefers to sleep at 65 but can tolerate 70. 75+ I really don't get any sleep and is part of why I am cranky all 9 months of summer (the worst season of the year). Great point on the fan use when at high temps and humidity they are no longer beneficial. I have to explain to people here that think that it's Ok when it's 100* cause there is a breeze.... I respond to that with that's how a convection oven works... In the winter we set the temp at 65*(from 72)at 9pm so the house is more comfortable to sleep in A problem I have with out house is the better 3/4s office in the summer. The door has to be closed all the time and her computer and multiple monitors puts out a massive amount of heat. I'm about at the point of putting a minisplit in her office but even the smallest is larger than I'd like. Oh and for the part about it's only 100* for an hour or so... Yeah here in TX it's 100+ for several hours of the day in the summer and the temp curve is relatively flat throughout the day. I had my own weather station and took the results from the 6 years it was datalogging and our summer design temp from that was quite a bit higher than the current published temp. That said the design temp was finally brought up a degree or two to more closely reflect the places where people actually live. No one cares what the weather is at the airport (other than pilots) because no one lives at the airport. I find many manual J design temps are referenced to an airport... Well I can tell you that here the airport temp is also called the chamber of commerce temp because their temp is always cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter than the temps where people actually live so don't trust those numbers 100%.
Great video! I'm seeing a lot of smart thermostats on the market(ecobee,Nest, and others). That promote multiple location monitoring. Unfortunately I feel a lot of people think these thermostats will give multi zones in the house(incorrect). It would be nice for you to discuss that these thermostats can only average the temperature throughout the house, or try to cool or heat the entire house to the primary sensor location. Keep up the good work love the videos.
Good vid! You talked a little bit about thermal mass; that's one of the enormous benefits of mass buildings few people talk about; a few hundred tons of mass isn't going to change its temperature varies quickly. Even in a worst-case scenario, like losing power during a heat wave or winter storm, a well insulated mass bounding will be comfortable for a few days and still livable after a week; try that with a light framed house. Also, you can solve the peak load problem you discussed with some thermal buffering capacity in the HVAC system, e.g., hot or chilled water storage, ice storage, or phase change materials, if they ever become commercially available.
Good video Corbett. Matt Risinger covered a new development in Georgetown, TX that is going to be the concrete printed houses. With that type of house becoming more of an option, it would be interesting to see you do a performance review of a house like that. Also, what are the pros/cons of having exterior insulation inside the WRB vs outside the WRB? There’s tons of videos with everyone discussing benefits of exterior insulation in general. But I haven’t come across one that specifies benefits of installation methods with regards to the WRB.
I think most builders doing this are thinking in redundant layers- if the water gets past cladding, there’s the ventilation gap. If it gets past the exterior insulation, there’s the airtight sheathing. It’s been done this way a ton, and since something like Rockwool is very water and fire resistant, putting it as a shield outside the WRB is giving you a redundant layer. And if 3D printed homes actually do take off, you know we’ll be testing one down the road- but the main air leaks were never the walls anyhow, it’s always been the top and bottom of the home that matter most.
Good information as always. As you know, here in GA, those humidity levels are so much fun! Quick question though: Can the stack effect be so prevalent within a structure that it begins to cause inner ear issues? I have narrow ear canals and Eustachian Tubes along with pretty bad indoor allergies to mold & dust. Long story short, having spent the last 3 years with multiple ENT visits, CT scans, allergy tests, etc., they want to perform sinus surgery to fix a deviated septum. However, my main issue is the ear pressure feeling like being in an airplane but then back down to sea level, constantly while indoors. BUT, once I leave the house, it clears up and I can breathe again. Have you heard of pressure being so extreme indoors that it causes health problems?
Alex, you specifically asked me and Dustin to cuddle up close, these mixed signals are hurting my feelings. Somebody has to sit in a lap, or it’s not a real HVAC training.
good video. good mention of thermal mass. we have quite a few older homes that had thermal mass walls built inside to "heat in the sun and radiate out at night", but they never worked because they didn't bother with insulation. they ended up being very hot in summer due to excessive windows (to heat the thermal mass) and cold in winter because of the lack of insulation and having to heat all that mass up. you actually have to design these concepts correctly.
I thought I wanted my bedroom "cold" but it just turned out I wanted myself cold and as such a doctor recommended a mattress pad that would keep me cold and I could still have the weight of the blankets.
Corbett- I am thinking about splitting my ventilation capacity between an ERV in conditioned attic and a ventilating dehumidifier in basement system . That way I can lean on the ventilating dehumidifier for ventilation in summer, and the erv in the winter? Sounds good?
@@alexmeaney2407 im happy with positive pressure as radon is an issue in my area, and assuming i need a dehumidifier. Zone 4 marine. New build . The hvac bids have all a agreed the heat just sl > cooling BTUs needed. But sizing all over the board for two systems. 2 - 3 tons in top floor, 3-5 tons in basement/first floor. It’s soooo hard convincing contractors I’m less concerned about house being a little cold in winter (though almost everyone I talk to acknowledges if anything current manual J approach gives you at least 20 % headroom in that regard) than I am dehumidifying in trunk seasons. If these full inverter system ramped way down, say to 20%, I wouldn’t worry , but if you oversize by a factor of two your minimum cooling capacity is still quite high; endless cycling or overshoot; in any regard, a waste of energy. I almost feel it’s safer to go with lowest figure and put in a dehumidifier….
So my air conditioner is extremely oversized. I am curious what your opinion is on what I’ve been doing and what other things I don’t know that can help. I have a 2 stage Lennox Merit 4 ton with variable air handler. I have gradually reduced the cfm to help increase run time and dehumidification while monitoring the temperature and watching for any frost on the line set. I have the air handler delay set to run slower for its 8 minutes then go to normal. I’m also running it at 315cfm/ton. When it enters dehumidification mode, it reduces to 268 cfm/ton until satisfied and returns to 315 on its stage 1 which is all we ever need even on the hottest days and it still cycles off. My dehumidifier which is ducted into the return I have on a relay so it actually turns off after 8 minutes if the air conditioner is still running. I’ve been running this setup with good success, but is it at the cost of my air conditioner dying early or anything else I don’t know?
You could perhaps just disable your second stage all together. Also is your dehumidifier ducted return to return Or return to supply? I would suggest having a dedicated return inlet and then supply to your supply plenum if your duct system can handle the additional air volume. With this configuration there is no need to cycle the dehu off.
I hear what you are saying about cooling the body with moving air cooler and dryer than the body is. Are there calculators that allow us to get a rough idea of that "cooling" effect (DB, WB, air speed)? EX: During cooling season, if at 7pm it is cooler outside than inside and an hour later it is 10 deg F cooler outside, clearly the house must be very slowly cooling, but the people are hot. What is the quantitative perceived effect of moving the 80F dry air slowly (ceiling fan 500cfm) in the 80F room? 100cfm? 1000? How much does that improve if we add in a small amount of 70F dry outside air (50cfm/room plus ceiling fan)? How do we quantify this effect to determine if drawing in outside air is ineffective at 50cfm/room, but effective at 1000 cfm (whole house fan) at some delta T? In answer to the home data center question, you would normally need to tightly insulate that dedicated room for sound anyway, as the fans will be very loud. You can then install a dedicated min-split 36000 BTU (10kW) or so in that room to keep the air temperature under control. What people forget, is that servers are fine hotter than people, just not too hot. They are fine if the room is at 80F to 85F, so the 95F directed return makes the min-splits quite efficient. They certainly don't need to be colder than people prefer, so long as there are no hot spots on the inlet sides.
My home data center can use up to 2500 watts (and may grow), but it's all desktop equipment with large fans. In rack servers ventilation fans can be up to a quarter of the power used which is very inefficient! The loudest thing I have is a PoE switch. I'm considering directed ventilation for the room (300 CFM or so would do) but I worry about the lack of humidity in the winter. I'll probably stick a 12000 BTU (or less) inverter mini-split in there for summer and in winter just use a pair of fans to help heat the home. I can always load shed in the summer. Would be fun to automate that.
Dem's my nerds... Goldilocks nerds. Not too cool. Not too hot. Perfect humidity. And on a technical note, I need my bedroom to be 66.6 on one side of the bed, and 71.7 at the midway line, and continuing to the master lavatory. No ceiling fans. Mini splits and a grocery store air lock entry system in the ceiling at the centerline? Dutch geothermal oven?
Put an electric blanket on one side. Let the person on that side be toasty enough they won't mind a chilly walk to the lavatory. Put radiant heating in the lavatory floor and keep it set to 72 and leave the door shut when not in use
Could you do a video on your equipment selection (Mitsubishi) mentioned around 04:25? Beyond proper selection of contractor and load sizing, selecting the right equipment, even after picking a brand, is a major headache for the average homeowner.
@@mattbruner8633 Why would I spend thousands of dollars on an equipment I'll have to live with for up to 15 years, and leave the selection entirely to someone else who only warranties it for 1-2 years? 🤷🏾♂️ I, not my realtor, picked my house; I, not the dealer, picked my car. Why not my HVAC system?
Good points, Afrocraft- maybe the middle way here is ask several contractors what brands they work with a lot, then choose the contractor based on brand preference.
Would be interested in how to plan heat pump water heaters as part of hvac temp and humidity control and how to capture unwanted heat in the house (ie fridge oven). Or does it even matter?
My knee jerk reaction would be that those small fluctuations probably don’t matter in 90% of homes, but there’s always the exception and you should nerd as hard as you want to.
@@HomePerformance Heat pump water heaters make the most sense when you have a reliable heat load that needs to be cooled anyway. A home server room would pair amazingly with a heat pump water heater, and so would a commercial kitchen that's always hot. I've also seen people use them to cool a root cellar/walk-in fridge
I've thought about putting a heat pump water heater on the top floor in my new home design, near the stairwell, to take advantage of the rising heat in the home. But in a tight home with good air circulation, temperatures will only vary by a couple degrees between floors. I think it'll go in the server room in the basement instead. If you don't have a point source of heat like that, they recommend installing them in sizeable rooms. Taking too much heat may run into moisture problems and the temperature approaches the dew point. The heat pump also works less efficiently in a cold room. I also hope to install a drain water heat recovery unit. They can recover about 40% of the heat, and I want to plumb that in before the water heater, to prewarm the water. Helps to recover heat from showers in particular, and I do enjoy a long hot shower.
People just think they want it 65 degrees because the RH and Dp are so high due to oversized equipment. Drop the moisture content in the house and 72 can be quite brisk if not doing anything but sitting or laying down. Run time is our friend. Love the nerd level vijayos 👍👍
You're right about oversized equipment. Based on data from my smart thermostat, my AC has never run more than 9 hours in a 24 hour period. I could probably cut it in half and still be ok.
Yep. I was always a sleep with AC at 68 degrees and ceiling fan on high in the summer time person. Kept it at 71 during the daytime. Just built a new custom home and built a tight house with a properly designed hvac system, whole house dehumidifier, and ERV. I keep the RH set point at 49%. Sleep at 71 degrees now. Still keep the ceiling fan on high though. We keep the house at 75 degrees during the daytime in the summer now. Most comfortable house I have ever lived in.
Today's servers aren't like the old reels of the 60s, 70s and 80s. Nowadays, if YOU can stand the temperature in the room, so can the server. We don't need to maintain 68 degrees in server rooms any more. But server rooms need to to be AIR TIGHT. The HVAC systems that should go into server rooms have very high sensible heat factors. The Mitsubishi P series can cool down to very cold outdoor temperatures. The M series cannot.
How can anyone sleep in a hot room. I like 70 when I sleep during the summer. Winter can be around 65-67. I like to have the house at around 74 during the day during the summer. My house is just an oddball. Like as soon as I get a few days above 70 then I have to use the AC to cool down the house because opening windows isn’t enough
Your radiologic environment drives natural selection. Firstly. Stress and rest . Not just the thermal spectrum. But whatever. Thats my selection. If i die first im crazy .
Corbett - very interested in the house you’re talking about in Houston. I sent you an email last night, but I provide technical support for Mitsubishi, Fujitsu, York, and Bosch. I’ve got a customer not far outside from Houston that money is not an option and wants his house at 65. If there’s a chance you or your contractor would want to chat about what they are doing, I’d love to learn. If it’s one of the above brands I mentioned, I have technical resources very high up the chain that’s not available to even contractors. Let me know!
Crazy is when you can't accomplish your goals and refuse to let go . Genius is being wrong . About not being able to finish . Or finally admitting it . Either way . Its not like you started a war .
Everyone smarter then me is crazy Everyone who makes less mistakes is lazy Everyone who makes more mistakes is hyperactive. I have a gun . These things are correlated.
What about a vr climate control tent interlinked with the vr projector. Is that crazy . They make 50k haptic feedback gloves . Your crazy FOR NOT WRITING THIS SHIT DOWN haha jk your smart
The whole Alex and Dustin mini-series was 🔥
Thanks buddy
Meaney is the man, I'm glad to see him get his face out there.
We're signed up for his online class and it's helped us transition people into the design role so much.
Good to see you Mean Man!
I see Meaney, I give thumb up. That simple.
This is America and you can do whatever you want😂!!!! That’s a blessing to be free! I have to say from watching and listening to experts I decided to try something. I now leave my house at 74 degrees and 45-50% humidity 24/7. We used to come home and cool the house down from 78-79 it got to with the A/C set on 82. We ran it at 71 degrees at night. After testing this, after about a few days we realized 74 feels just as cool as 71 because everything in the room was already cool! We have always ran our ceiling fan on high also. It never saved electricity running the temperature up when we were at work either because the ventilating dehumidifier ran anyway, then we were on stage 2 on the A/C to pull down the temp. We use less electricity actually and we are way more comfortable leaving the house at the same temperature and humidity all the time! Plus, the air conditioner running helps the humidity anyway.
Thank you for posting your experience. Perhaps more people will come to understand the wisdom of proper equipment sizing AND proper operation.
Sadly, most HVAC techs would not know what was being discussed in this session. Plus most air conditioning companies focus only on the "box".
:(
Good stuff. Corbett, I hope you interview these guys more in the future!
teaching the customer is a big part of many trades.
heat pumps are fairly new here (~20 years or so) and HVAC is rare, and every year there is media articles to teach people how to heat homes. people still expect to turn on a heat pump and be instantly warm, and complain about the running cost because now they are heating a room, not just the spot they are sitting in.
teaching thermal mass, dehumidification etc is interesting at times.
I am one that prefers to sleep at 65 but can tolerate 70. 75+ I really don't get any sleep and is part of why I am cranky all 9 months of summer (the worst season of the year). Great point on the fan use when at high temps and humidity they are no longer beneficial. I have to explain to people here that think that it's Ok when it's 100* cause there is a breeze.... I respond to that with that's how a convection oven works... In the winter we set the temp at 65*(from 72)at 9pm so the house is more comfortable to sleep in
A problem I have with out house is the better 3/4s office in the summer. The door has to be closed all the time and her computer and multiple monitors puts out a massive amount of heat. I'm about at the point of putting a minisplit in her office but even the smallest is larger than I'd like.
Oh and for the part about it's only 100* for an hour or so... Yeah here in TX it's 100+ for several hours of the day in the summer and the temp curve is relatively flat throughout the day. I had my own weather station and took the results from the 6 years it was datalogging and our summer design temp from that was quite a bit higher than the current published temp. That said the design temp was finally brought up a degree or two to more closely reflect the places where people actually live. No one cares what the weather is at the airport (other than pilots) because no one lives at the airport.
I find many manual J design temps are referenced to an airport... Well I can tell you that here the airport temp is also called the chamber of commerce temp because their temp is always cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter than the temps where people actually live so don't trust those numbers 100%.
There are more accurate design temps at ashrae-meteo.info all that matters is you don’t pick a number out of a hat
Great video! I'm seeing a lot of smart thermostats on the market(ecobee,Nest, and others). That promote multiple location monitoring. Unfortunately I feel a lot of people think these thermostats will give multi zones in the house(incorrect). It would be nice for you to discuss that these thermostats can only average the temperature throughout the house, or try to cool or heat the entire house to the primary sensor location. Keep up the good work love the videos.
Great convo, guys.
Loved every minute of it. 😏
👍🏽👍🏽
Good vid! You talked a little bit about thermal mass; that's one of the enormous benefits of mass buildings few people talk about; a few hundred tons of mass isn't going to change its temperature varies quickly. Even in a worst-case scenario, like losing power during a heat wave or winter storm, a well insulated mass bounding will be comfortable for a few days and still livable after a week; try that with a light framed house. Also, you can solve the peak load problem you discussed with some thermal buffering capacity in the HVAC system, e.g., hot or chilled water storage, ice storage, or phase change materials, if they ever become commercially available.
Good video Corbett.
Matt Risinger covered a new development in Georgetown, TX that is going to be the concrete printed houses. With that type of house becoming more of an option, it would be interesting to see you do a performance review of a house like that.
Also, what are the pros/cons of having exterior insulation inside the WRB vs outside the WRB? There’s tons of videos with everyone discussing benefits of exterior insulation in general. But I haven’t come across one that specifies benefits of installation methods with regards to the WRB.
I think most builders doing this are thinking in redundant layers- if the water gets past cladding, there’s the ventilation gap. If it gets past the exterior insulation, there’s the airtight sheathing. It’s been done this way a ton, and since something like Rockwool is very water and fire resistant, putting it as a shield outside the WRB is giving you a redundant layer.
And if 3D printed homes actually do take off, you know we’ll be testing one down the road- but the main air leaks were never the walls anyhow, it’s always been the top and bottom of the home that matter most.
Houston guy needs a refrigeration tech if he wants to sleep in a high temp walk in cooler!
"He needs more blankets AAND he needs less blankets" hahaha. Thanks for this. I have just got into your videos.
Welcome to the cult
Good information as always. As you know, here in GA, those humidity levels are so much fun! Quick question though: Can the stack effect be so prevalent within a structure that it begins to cause inner ear issues? I have narrow ear canals and Eustachian Tubes along with pretty bad indoor allergies to mold & dust. Long story short, having spent the last 3 years with multiple ENT visits, CT scans, allergy tests, etc., they want to perform sinus surgery to fix a deviated septum. However, my main issue is the ear pressure feeling like being in an airplane but then back down to sea level, constantly while indoors. BUT, once I leave the house, it clears up and I can breathe again. Have you heard of pressure being so extreme indoors that it causes health problems?
Wait, 65F bedroom is "very cold"?
Great interview. Really interesting topic. Alex and Dustin may not be aware that they are mirroring a defensive posture by having their arms crossed.
It’s the cameras
WHAT DO YOU MEAN?! I'M NOT DEFENSIVE. 😉Seriously though, I take that posture a lot in close quarters. It keeps me from bumping into people constantly.
Alex, you specifically asked me and Dustin to cuddle up close, these mixed signals are hurting my feelings. Somebody has to sit in a lap, or it’s not a real HVAC training.
In all honesty it's because I'm terrified of cameras lol.
I also blame Alex, he wanted us to cuddle
good video.
good mention of thermal mass. we have quite a few older homes that had thermal mass walls built inside to "heat in the sun and radiate out at night", but they never worked because they didn't bother with insulation. they ended up being very hot in summer due to excessive windows (to heat the thermal mass) and cold in winter because of the lack of insulation and having to heat all that mass up.
you actually have to design these concepts correctly.
I thought I wanted my bedroom "cold" but it just turned out I wanted myself cold and as such a doctor recommended a mattress pad that would keep me cold and I could still have the weight of the blankets.
Sounds perfect!
What sort of mattress pad did you find that keps you cold?
Corbett- I am thinking about splitting my ventilation capacity between an ERV in conditioned attic and a ventilating dehumidifier in basement system . That way I can lean on the ventilating dehumidifier for ventilation in summer, and the erv in the winter? Sounds good?
Clever. Expensive, but clever.
Interesting- you’d still have to exhaust from all the bathrooms with the ERV, no?
@@alexmeaney2407 im happy with positive pressure as radon is an issue in my area, and assuming i need a dehumidifier. Zone 4 marine. New build . The hvac bids have all a agreed the heat just sl > cooling BTUs needed. But sizing all over the board for two systems. 2 - 3 tons in top floor, 3-5 tons in basement/first floor. It’s soooo hard convincing contractors I’m less concerned about house being a little cold in winter (though almost everyone I talk to acknowledges if anything current manual J approach gives you at least 20 % headroom in that regard) than I am dehumidifying in trunk seasons. If these full inverter system ramped way down, say to 20%, I wouldn’t worry , but if you oversize by a factor of two your minimum cooling capacity is still quite high; endless cycling or overshoot; in any regard, a waste of energy. I almost feel it’s safer to go with lowest figure and put in a dehumidifier….
So my air conditioner is extremely oversized. I am curious what your opinion is on what I’ve been doing and what other things I don’t know that can help. I have a 2 stage Lennox Merit 4 ton with variable air handler. I have gradually reduced the cfm to help increase run time and dehumidification while monitoring the temperature and watching for any frost on the line set. I have the air handler delay set to run slower for its 8 minutes then go to normal. I’m also running it at 315cfm/ton. When it enters dehumidification mode, it reduces to 268 cfm/ton until satisfied and returns to 315 on its stage 1 which is all we ever need even on the hottest days and it still cycles off. My dehumidifier which is ducted into the return I have on a relay so it actually turns off after 8 minutes if the air conditioner is still running. I’ve been running this setup with good success, but is it at the cost of my air conditioner dying early or anything else I don’t know?
David it’s a shame you weren’t sold a 3 ton or even two ton unit with compressor varying between 40-100%.
You could perhaps just disable your second stage all together. Also is your dehumidifier ducted return to return Or return to supply? I would suggest having a dedicated return inlet and then supply to your supply plenum if your duct system can handle the additional air volume. With this configuration there is no need to cycle the dehu off.
Also I would recommend testing the compressor superheat to ensure you are not damaging your compressor
I wish I had a Corbett in my circle of friends. It's hard to find other people to nerd out with me about this type of stuff.
Haha thanks Tagiuk- happy to nerd out hard with our little club here!
I hear what you are saying about cooling the body with moving air cooler and dryer than the body is. Are there calculators that allow us to get a rough idea of that "cooling" effect (DB, WB, air speed)?
EX: During cooling season, if at 7pm it is cooler outside than inside and an hour later it is 10 deg F cooler outside, clearly the house must be very slowly cooling, but the people are hot. What is the quantitative perceived effect of moving the 80F dry air slowly (ceiling fan 500cfm) in the 80F room? 100cfm? 1000? How much does that improve if we add in a small amount of 70F dry outside air (50cfm/room plus ceiling fan)? How do we quantify this effect to determine if drawing in outside air is ineffective at 50cfm/room, but effective at 1000 cfm (whole house fan) at some delta T?
In answer to the home data center question, you would normally need to tightly insulate that dedicated room for sound anyway, as the fans will be very loud. You can then install a dedicated min-split 36000 BTU (10kW) or so in that room to keep the air temperature under control. What people forget, is that servers are fine hotter than people, just not too hot. They are fine if the room is at 80F to 85F, so the 95F directed return makes the min-splits quite efficient. They certainly don't need to be colder than people prefer, so long as there are no hot spots on the inlet sides.
Good ones Larry. I think my daughter had that word problem in last week’s math quiz.
My home data center can use up to 2500 watts (and may grow), but it's all desktop equipment with large fans. In rack servers ventilation fans can be up to a quarter of the power used which is very inefficient! The loudest thing I have is a PoE switch.
I'm considering directed ventilation for the room (300 CFM or so would do) but I worry about the lack of humidity in the winter. I'll probably stick a 12000 BTU (or less) inverter mini-split in there for summer and in winter just use a pair of fans to help heat the home. I can always load shed in the summer. Would be fun to automate that.
Dem's my nerds... Goldilocks nerds. Not too cool. Not too hot. Perfect humidity.
And on a technical note, I need my bedroom to be 66.6 on one side of the bed, and 71.7 at the midway line, and continuing to the master lavatory. No ceiling fans.
Mini splits and a grocery store air lock entry system in the ceiling at the centerline? Dutch geothermal oven?
A geothermal bed is a billion dollar idea...
Geothermal radiant furniture...
Put an electric blanket on one side. Let the person on that side be toasty enough they won't mind a chilly walk to the lavatory. Put radiant heating in the lavatory floor and keep it set to 72 and leave the door shut when not in use
Could you do a video on your equipment selection (Mitsubishi) mentioned around 04:25? Beyond proper selection of contractor and load sizing, selecting the right equipment, even after picking a brand, is a major headache for the average homeowner.
Why do you want to pick the brand? I would recommend letting the contractor pick the brand
@@mattbruner8633 Why would I spend thousands of dollars on an equipment I'll have to live with for up to 15 years, and leave the selection entirely to someone else who only warranties it for 1-2 years? 🤷🏾♂️ I, not my realtor, picked my house; I, not the dealer, picked my car. Why not my HVAC system?
Good points, Afrocraft- maybe the middle way here is ask several contractors what brands they work with a lot, then choose the contractor based on brand preference.
"CRAZY" lady here! 🤣🤣🤣
That's ok, it takes all kinds ;)
Which leads to our next discussion, "Mean Radiant Temperature"... When will there be or is there already a thermostat that can read MRT?
Would be interested in how to plan heat pump water heaters as part of hvac temp and humidity control and how to capture unwanted heat in the house (ie fridge oven). Or does it even matter?
My knee jerk reaction would be that those small fluctuations probably don’t matter in 90% of homes, but there’s always the exception and you should nerd as hard as you want to.
@@HomePerformance Heat pump water heaters make the most sense when you have a reliable heat load that needs to be cooled anyway. A home server room would pair amazingly with a heat pump water heater, and so would a commercial kitchen that's always hot. I've also seen people use them to cool a root cellar/walk-in fridge
I've thought about putting a heat pump water heater on the top floor in my new home design, near the stairwell, to take advantage of the rising heat in the home. But in a tight home with good air circulation, temperatures will only vary by a couple degrees between floors.
I think it'll go in the server room in the basement instead.
If you don't have a point source of heat like that, they recommend installing them in sizeable rooms. Taking too much heat may run into moisture problems and the temperature approaches the dew point. The heat pump also works less efficiently in a cold room.
I also hope to install a drain water heat recovery unit. They can recover about 40% of the heat, and I want to plumb that in before the water heater, to prewarm the water. Helps to recover heat from showers in particular, and I do enjoy a long hot shower.
People just think they want it 65 degrees because the RH and Dp are so high due to oversized equipment.
Drop the moisture content in the house and 72 can be quite brisk if not doing anything but sitting or laying down. Run time is our friend. Love the nerd level vijayos 👍👍
You're right about oversized equipment. Based on data from my smart thermostat, my AC has never run more than 9 hours in a 24 hour period. I could probably cut it in half and still be ok.
Yep. I was always a sleep with AC at 68 degrees and ceiling fan on high in the summer time person. Kept it at 71 during the daytime. Just built a new custom home and built a tight house with a properly designed hvac system, whole house dehumidifier, and ERV. I keep the RH set point at 49%. Sleep at 71 degrees now. Still keep the ceiling fan on high though. We keep the house at 75 degrees during the daytime in the summer now. Most comfortable house I have ever lived in.
I find 64ºF to be the perfect temperature year round. The relative humidity in my place is currently 3%. I could really use a humidifier.
Today's servers aren't like the old reels of the 60s, 70s and 80s. Nowadays, if YOU can stand the temperature in the room, so can the server. We don't need to maintain 68 degrees in server rooms any more. But server rooms need to to be AIR TIGHT. The HVAC systems that should go into server rooms have very high sensible heat factors. The Mitsubishi P series can cool down to very cold outdoor temperatures. The M series cannot.
Thx for clarifying Tim
How can anyone sleep in a hot room. I like 70 when I sleep during the summer. Winter can be around 65-67.
I like to have the house at around 74 during the day during the summer.
My house is just an oddball. Like as soon as I get a few days above 70 then I have to use the AC to cool down the house because opening windows isn’t enough
I like 60-65°F with a fan on not even a sheet on. Don't like waking up in a pool of sweat.
Wife says I'm like a walking heater.
Great video! Hvac WA tech.
If you do a deep dive and proceed down the full spectrum. Excessive beta oxidative can damage nerves i think . Maybe because of toxic burden.
Your radiologic environment drives natural selection. Firstly. Stress and rest . Not just the thermal spectrum. But whatever. Thats my selection. If i die first im crazy .
Really really real
Corbett - very interested in the house you’re talking about in Houston. I sent you an email last night, but I provide technical support for Mitsubishi, Fujitsu, York, and Bosch. I’ve got a customer not far outside from Houston that money is not an option and wants his house at 65.
If there’s a chance you or your contractor would want to chat about what they are doing, I’d love to learn. If it’s one of the above brands I mentioned, I have technical resources very high up the chain that’s not available to even contractors. Let me know!
Crazy is when you can't accomplish your goals and refuse to let go . Genius is being wrong . About not being able to finish . Or finally admitting it . Either way . Its not like you started a war .
Whats popin my people?
What if i want a feed gas atmosphere pumped into my vr goggles. Is that crazy ? Naw homie . That is selective redox . That is not crazy .
Everyone smarter then me is crazy
Everyone who makes less mistakes is lazy
Everyone who makes more mistakes is hyperactive.
I have a gun .
These things are correlated.
What about a vr climate control tent interlinked with the vr projector. Is that crazy . They make 50k haptic feedback gloves . Your crazy FOR NOT WRITING THIS SHIT DOWN haha jk your smart