Another great video. The only thing I did not understand was the reason there was moisture by the doors? If the doors are sealed well, then why the moisture infiltration. I understand that the home was under pressure when the dryer and ac was pulling but if sealed well then why the pull. Maybe even though the seal is great its still gonna pull. So make up air stop that?
Thrilled to see more content about makeup air! It was the missing link from my reno build. 1. Would LOVE to see more videos on energy/price performant systems for makeup air and contrasts to the issues relative to the central ERV (cooking grease, dryer lint, etc. as "core destroyers" and therefore must be separate?). Besides the obvious - 2. switch to condensing dryers! (Fantasy thoughts: "air-smart" appliances to either go full/partial "direct-vent" based on home and weather conditions; especially frustrating watching that steaming humidity dump of the dishwasher in summer!)
Very interesting! I saw Scott on the Risinger channel, and if I were looking to remain in CenTex for my next house, I would very much be looking at Dimora Homes.
Good stuff. My house turns 50 next year. She needs some AARP junk mail. I ran a blower test on it in 1986. I briefly worked with an early "energy audit" company. I think we were trying to get houses under 5, back then. We would caulk, and do smoke tests, gaskets in the outlets, wetherstrip doors.
Very interesting timing Corbett.... I had already been thinking that the dryer could/would be a problem in my ight house. (Especially in "normal" homes where you just install an exhaust only vent. That's not providing any additional air, just taking MORE air away.) In my case, I have the kitchen on the other side of the laundry room and had already been considering wiring an additional 'timer' in the laundry room to 'boost' air (from the make up hood fan devise) while the dryer is running. Even Zehnder had me running a boost switch to the laundry room which again would just be cycling air, not providing more air to the area. I'm guessing Zehnder thought I would run a HP dryer, so to their credit, it was not discussed. Great stuff. Good to see Scott on there.
We are installing a Zehnder unit with ERV in our build and will be installing a HP dryer in the utility/laundry room, so your comments re Zehnder and HP dryer have helped clarify a couple of things. Thank you.
@@antonmcgready9285 No problem, you won't need to worry about it as the HP dryer uses the air from the house, but then puts it right back in the house (no exhaust to the outside.) Therefore no pressure imbalance. We just didn't like the idea of running smaller loads with the HP dryer.
@@wjthehomebuilder I personally love the concept of HP dryers but I think my wife would kill me if she had to use them. For a large family I just don't think they are practical yet. I've had my eye on the new LG tower unit that has the 7+CF HP dryer. Hoping that the reviews won't be like all the other HP dryers out there.
Great video guys, and great to see you yesterday Scott at BS & Beer ATX! A lot of people are going to suggest the heat pump dryers but with a large busy family, you are going to end up with a very frustrated spouse that does the laundry! I would love to see a direct vent dryer or an active makeup air system (dedicated to the dryer) with a current switch and an adjustable fan so you can adjust it to match what the dryer is pushing out of the house.
Good to see you as well Luke. Good job presenting! Yeah, I like the heat pump dryer idea. Right now, I'm building my own house and I want to have it set up for a vented dryer so we have the freedom to go both ways. But I'm designing the make up air to go through the dehumidifier. I'll share the details once I have it together.
@@ScottTrue I've been dreaming up a dedicated makeup air for the dryer. Our dryer gets used way longer than the hood so I think it's super important. In my (1980's) house we will often get ash smell from our fireplace when the run the dryer, it's super annoying. We should get together and come up with a prototype!
Love the video, Great find! It was great meeting Scott in Atlanta. The first building I tested had a depressurization issue. HVAC was located in the utility space, the building was fairly airtight. The damper was missing in the dryer duct termination and makeup air was entering through the drier resulting in condensation made worse by the undersized return pathway to the open-air AHU return in the laundry room (unit on a platform drawing air through the laundry room louvered door)
Have always wondered why dryers don't have a built in make up air. Never made sense to use expensive air(cooled inside air) run it through the dryer and push it outside only to suck in hot air from outside. My problem with makeup air and ERVS etc is that they are extremely difficult to retrofit into older houses. Many of us are not fortunate enough to live somewhere with basements and mechanical rooms. Basically the only place for it is in the attic(unfortunately) IMO every house should be required to have an adequate sized mechanical room.
Eureka! We built our home tight; I think tighter than our mechanical contractor could appreciate. None of our bathroom exhaust fans are effective, same goes for our hood vent, and last but not least, our gas dryer works only intermittently. Now I know to open a window when we run the dryer. Will definitely be discussing this with our mechanical contractor for the next build; thank you for this,
Thanks! Brothers, I'm so glad I found your "Home Performance" channel. I really appreciate anything I can find where Scott is speaking "Practical" and usable insights. Say... would you consider a deep-dive into the issues of the Vapor Diffusion ports. What it is; the problem & why; the solution... Corbett, do you & @Home Performance market or sell these blower door kits. We're getting ready to build a retirement home and may just have to buy one ourselves??? I cannot find a builder in my Coastal NC area who uses one or thinks in terms of 0.6 ACH50! Cheers, Eric
@HomePerformance Corbett, thank you very much! I will reach out to Josh on Monday. Another resource missing here on the Crystal Coast is an Aero Barrier contractor. AeroSeal made a referral, but they only do the Aero Seal service not the Aero Barrier. Perhaps Josh has contacts. 😎 Building my team for our home is hard. Thankfully, I connect again with the awesome Steve Baczek next week. Cheers, Eric
Great diagnosis! Is the reason the 6" damper didn't work because of a CFM limit to balance out the indoor/outside pressure? Would the size calculation of the damper be based on the type of makeup air system that you have and the CFM it outputs? Still learning and appreciate all of your videos. Scott, still waiting for you to continue the "Building a high performance home on a budget" series.
No. In fact, I won't call them back for anything because I prefer to have my current HVAC company help with everything, even if it was someone else' install. My current HVAC guys have proven to be excellent installers who are open to understanding things in a different way.
So the solution was to increase the size of the make-up air to 10in, and air seal areas that were lacking. But it was said to “add make-up air exclusively for the dryer”? Does that mean a separate make-up air duct was added to the laundry room? Also, any reason why Scott didn’t retrofit an ERV?
Yes explain building science very well. That being said its still a complicated topic. How do you know if your new build needs an ERV? Is there a magic blower door test score that will tell you this? I getting ready to build my dream home in Vermont. I don't want to make any costly mistakes. Thanks for what you do.
why was the make up air damper turned into a 10"? was it that it could cover both exhaust hood for the kitchen and laundry at the same time? could having the mau fan speed run higher do the job?
Am I dense or did you not explain how and why the moisture issue was appearing around the doors on the floor, I am not quite understanding how the moisture was accumulating around the slider and french door when the root problem is not enough makeup air? Is it sucking humid air from outside in those areas and the moisture is building near the doors/floor from outside humidity?
Great information. So with a house sealed tight and not enough makeup air, moisture can be drawn in from the outside?. That's what caused the floor issue by the door?. In this particular house was this only an issue when the range exhaust was being used? Once again a great and informative video.
Yes, that's exactly right. The hot humid air from the outside came in through the path of least resistance and condensate on the cold floor. The depressurization provided the force.
Good question. I'm not sure exactly where to draw the line. I would guess 2 ACH 50. But rather than guessing or calculating, for me, it's much easier to just install the ERV for balanced ventilation.
@@ScottTrue Thanks Scott. Because of you and your video with Matt, I learned that Corbitt could do the same "Advanced Manual J's" (is what I like to call it). So he really helped me on my current project (which is getting a Zehnder unit.) My spec houses all get the 'spot' Panasonic ERV's and usually come in between 1.5 - 2.0 ACH.
There was a fresh air damper that would bring in outside air into the return of the air handler. It was set on a schedule that didn't open often. Now, I have it set to stay open. So that can passively bring in make up air when the dryer runs. It works but I think we, as an industry can do better. I think it should be a dedicated damper that dumps near a return so it can be conditioned.
He winter make up air Scoot/Corbett- in a new two system house, what do you think about having an erv upstairs for most of and ventilating dehumidifier in basement for most of the summer make up air.
Still have to exhaust the lower floor bathrooms into the ERV, still have to run the ERV at some continuous level- sounds like a more complicated setup that would generally over-ventilate.
The hod humid air from outside was leaking through loose penetrations in the attic. The depressurization provided the force for this to happen. That humid air would then condensate on a cold surface which is that grille right next to the spot that the air was coming in.
My thoughts on supplying make up air for the clothes drier is this,. My drier is on the main floor now in our master bathroom of our single level home. I'm considering putting in what I call a "Shepard's hook duct"! I would cut a 6" hole in the ceiling and install a 6" metal duct up into the attic, BUt it must rise up and then hook back down to prevent cold air from drifting down into the master bath when the drier is off line. Cold air won't drift up first to then go down, as the Shepard's hook forced the cool air to go upwards before going down. When the drier is in use it will pull the needed air ( We have a propane drier) into the area near the drier. The drier warms the area slightly normally and this would be countered by the incoming cold supply air. I figured the shorter the distance between the Shepard's hook supply to the drier the better. Bugs, birds, water, etc, etc are not present in the attic and can be easily checked by going into the attic. Open to opinions??
Wow, Brian, you sent me over to Google in a hurry to see if this is a fad. I do not advise this because I’m certain it won’t work exactly as you plan, though it’s a very interesting concept. The thing that will drive air up and down a duct to the attic is not the temp of the attic air, it’s the pressure of the home wrt the attic. When air leaks from the top floor ceiling into the attic under stack pressure, this duct would pull air from the attic down even when the dryer is not running. You’ll have major dust build up and uncontrollable heat/humidity swings.
Hi Corbett, I recently watched a video on RUclips from Yale Appliances that talked about “The Best Dishwashers for 2023” and at minute 3:25 they talk about a Beko dishwasher (model DDT39424X) that has “Ion-Guard”, which apparently is a system that “injects negatively charged ions into the dishwasher to counteract the positive ions of odors”. ruclips.net/video/grJTcHWA8oo/видео.html Since this is happening within a sealed environment, would it work or is it just a gimmick? Have you heard of other appliances, like perhaps a fridge/freezer or a washing machine or dyer that uses negative ions to fight odors?
They use ozone generators inside large tanks in reverse osmosis water purification systems, mostly in restaurants and coffee shops. I’d say since the new chems are not going to be inhalable, or on our skin, it’s a lot less concerning to me, but maybe a chemist will set us straight.
As stated, the depressurization is what provided the force for the outside air to find the path of least resistance. I mentioned before in the comments that the weather stripping in the door can provide a path. There was another thing I didn't mention. I site build my door pans which involves using liquid flash to seal the inside bottom of the door to the door pan. This liquid flash is the back damn for water and is also part of the air barrier. When I took the flooring off, I saw that the flooring guys cut this flashing completely out.
When the house is tight, an exhaust only method, like "normal" bathroom fans will depressurize the house and pull in air (hot humid air in my case) through the path of the least resistance (in my case, that path was around the weather stripping in the doors). Then, there is the supply only ventilation method which pulls in outside air into the air handler return or dehumidifier (if there is one). Then, there is what I call the unbalanced system which is what many builders that are trying to do better default to. This house was unbalanced, meaning I have exhaust and supply of outside air into the return. In theory, it sounds good, but the exhaust and fresh air never match. I prefer 100% balanced now. This means using an ERV and make up air for things like range hoods, dryers, and any other appliance pulling air out.
@@ramblinjamman No. This is exactly why people like Corbett recommend the heat pump dryer. My home buyers have normal dryers so I'm having to come up with ways to handle that. I'll be explaining one way in a video with Matt soon.
@@ScottTruewow Scott, I just found this channel with your interview! Excellent! When I built my last home, I was so worried about my Dryer & Whole House vacuum needing make up air. I was so pleased to discover the Ultra-Air XT-105 & XT-155 Dehumidifiers with the make-up air intake! Man I appreciate your content! I so wish you were in Coastal NC to be my builder!!! Cheers, Eric
Another great video. The only thing I did not understand was the reason there was moisture by the doors? If the doors are sealed well, then why the moisture infiltration. I understand that the home was under pressure when the dryer and ac was pulling but if sealed well then why the pull. Maybe even though the seal is great its still gonna pull. So make up air stop that?
Thrilled to see more content about makeup air! It was the missing link from my reno build. 1. Would LOVE to see more videos on energy/price performant systems for makeup air and contrasts to the issues relative to the central ERV (cooking grease, dryer lint, etc. as "core destroyers" and therefore must be separate?). Besides the obvious - 2. switch to condensing dryers! (Fantasy thoughts: "air-smart" appliances to either go full/partial "direct-vent" based on home and weather conditions; especially frustrating watching that steaming humidity dump of the dishwasher in summer!)
Video forthcoming, John
Great information!
Both of you guys are awesome .
Very interesting! I saw Scott on the Risinger channel, and if I were looking to remain in CenTex for my next house, I would very much be looking at Dimora Homes.
Informative vlog. Thanks Corbett and Scott.
👍🏽
Good stuff.
My house turns 50 next year. She needs some AARP junk mail. I ran a blower test on it in 1986. I briefly worked with an early "energy audit" company. I think we were trying to get houses under 5, back then. We would caulk, and do smoke tests, gaskets in the outlets, wetherstrip doors.
Nice, Hamp
Very interesting timing Corbett.... I had already been thinking that the dryer could/would be a problem in my ight house. (Especially in "normal" homes where you just install an exhaust only vent. That's not providing any additional air, just taking MORE air away.) In my case, I have the kitchen on the other side of the laundry room and had already been considering wiring an additional 'timer' in the laundry room to 'boost' air (from the make up hood fan devise) while the dryer is running. Even Zehnder had me running a boost switch to the laundry room which again would just be cycling air, not providing more air to the area. I'm guessing Zehnder thought I would run a HP dryer, so to their credit, it was not discussed. Great stuff. Good to see Scott on there.
We are installing a Zehnder unit with ERV in our build and will be installing a HP dryer in the utility/laundry room, so your comments re Zehnder and HP dryer have helped clarify a couple of things. Thank you.
@@antonmcgready9285 No problem, you won't need to worry about it as the HP dryer uses the air from the house, but then puts it right back in the house (no exhaust to the outside.) Therefore no pressure imbalance. We just didn't like the idea of running smaller loads with the HP dryer.
@@wjthehomebuilder I personally love the concept of HP dryers but I think my wife would kill me if she had to use them. For a large family I just don't think they are practical yet. I've had my eye on the new LG tower unit that has the 7+CF HP dryer. Hoping that the reviews won't be like all the other HP dryers out there.
@@lukemezger2274 Do you have a part number for that LG dryer? I would be interested to look it up as well. Thanks!
Thanks Wally
I'm learning a lot from your videos. Thank you so much!
Glad you found us, Mark
Great video guys, and great to see you yesterday Scott at BS & Beer ATX! A lot of people are going to suggest the heat pump dryers but with a large busy family, you are going to end up with a very frustrated spouse that does the laundry! I would love to see a direct vent dryer or an active makeup air system (dedicated to the dryer) with a current switch and an adjustable fan so you can adjust it to match what the dryer is pushing out of the house.
Good to see you as well Luke. Good job presenting! Yeah, I like the heat pump dryer idea. Right now, I'm building my own house and I want to have it set up for a vented dryer so we have the freedom to go both ways. But I'm designing the make up air to go through the dehumidifier. I'll share the details once I have it together.
@@ScottTrue I've been dreaming up a dedicated makeup air for the dryer. Our dryer gets used way longer than the hood so I think it's super important. In my (1980's) house we will often get ash smell from our fireplace when the run the dryer, it's super annoying. We should get together and come up with a prototype!
Love the video, Great find! It was great meeting Scott in Atlanta.
The first building I tested had a depressurization issue. HVAC was located in the utility space, the building was fairly airtight.
The damper was missing in the dryer duct termination and makeup air was entering through the drier resulting in condensation made worse by the undersized return pathway to the open-air AHU return in the laundry room (unit on a platform drawing air through the laundry room louvered door)
Nice, Dustin
Have always wondered why dryers don't have a built in make up air. Never made sense to use expensive air(cooled inside air) run it through the dryer and push it outside only to suck in hot air from outside. My problem with makeup air and ERVS etc is that they are extremely difficult to retrofit into older houses. Many of us are not fortunate enough to live somewhere with basements and mechanical rooms. Basically the only place for it is in the attic(unfortunately) IMO every house should be required to have an adequate sized mechanical room.
well originally they didn't need make up air as they where recirculate instead of vented outdoors. i still have one.
Interesting- also, they used to be installed outside the house
I used the mechanical room for a kids bedroom. Priorities. 😂
Eureka! We built our home tight; I think tighter than our mechanical contractor could appreciate. None of our bathroom exhaust fans are effective, same goes for our hood vent, and last but not least, our gas dryer works only intermittently. Now I know to open a window when we run the dryer. Will definitely be discussing this with our mechanical contractor for the next build; thank you for this,
Thanks!
Brothers,
I'm so glad I found your "Home Performance" channel. I really appreciate anything I can find where Scott is speaking "Practical" and usable insights.
Say... would you consider a deep-dive into the issues of the Vapor Diffusion ports.
What it is; the problem & why; the solution...
Corbett, do you & @Home Performance market or sell these blower door kits. We're getting ready to build a retirement home and may just have to buy one ourselves??? I cannot find a builder in my Coastal NC area who uses one or thinks in terms of 0.6 ACH50!
Cheers,
Eric
Hey thanks Eric- I’m sure we can find you a blower door tester, try Josh Hartness at Haas Energy in Charlotte, he may know.
@HomePerformance
Corbett, thank you very much! I will reach out to Josh on Monday.
Another resource missing here on the Crystal Coast is an Aero Barrier contractor. AeroSeal made a referral, but they only do the Aero Seal service not the Aero Barrier. Perhaps Josh has contacts. 😎
Building my team for our home is hard. Thankfully, I connect again with the awesome Steve Baczek next week.
Cheers, Eric
great repair live and learn
Great diagnosis! Is the reason the 6" damper didn't work because of a CFM limit to balance out the indoor/outside pressure? Would the size calculation of the damper be based on the type of makeup air system that you have and the CFM it outputs? Still learning and appreciate all of your videos.
Scott, still waiting for you to continue the "Building a high performance home on a budget" series.
Hey Catch 22, see this video for proper sizing:
ruclips.net/video/CSmwDGxtlHU/видео.html
@@HomePerformance should have known you already did a video. Thanks!
Great content! Thanks. Just curious, was the original HVAC contractor involved in finding this problem and the solution?
No. In fact, I won't call them back for anything because I prefer to have my current HVAC company help with everything, even if it was someone else' install. My current HVAC guys have proven to be excellent installers who are open to understanding things in a different way.
So the solution was to increase the size of the make-up air to 10in, and air seal areas that were lacking. But it was said to “add make-up air exclusively for the dryer”? Does that mean a separate make-up air duct was added to the laundry room? Also, any reason why Scott didn’t retrofit an ERV?
Yes explain building science very well. That being said its still a complicated topic. How do you know if your new build needs an ERV? Is there a magic blower door test score that will tell you this? I getting ready to build my dream home in Vermont. I don't want to make any costly mistakes. Thanks for what you do.
Video forthcoming, Robert
why was the make up air damper turned into a 10"? was it that it could cover both exhaust hood for the kitchen and laundry at the same time? could having the mau fan speed run higher do the job?
No, it was just undersized to begin with. Hard to configure a control system like you’re talking about.
Awesome stuff.
Am I dense or did you not explain how and why the moisture issue was appearing around the doors on the floor, I am not quite understanding how the moisture was accumulating around the slider and french door when the root problem is not enough makeup air? Is it sucking humid air from outside in those areas and the moisture is building near the doors/floor from outside humidity?
Yes exactly
Would another acceptable solution be to replace the dryer with a heat pump dryer?
Sure, that would do it for the dryer problem too
Great information. So with a house sealed tight and not enough makeup air, moisture can be drawn in from the outside?. That's what caused the floor issue by the door?. In this particular house was this only an issue when the range exhaust was being used? Once again a great and informative video.
Yes, that's exactly right. The hot humid air from the outside came in through the path of least resistance and condensate on the cold floor. The depressurization provided the force.
What is your comfortable "line" to cross for installing an ERV? I've always thought sub 2.0 ACH is a good idea. And sub 1.5 is a must.
Good question. I'm not sure exactly where to draw the line. I would guess 2 ACH 50. But rather than guessing or calculating, for me, it's much easier to just install the ERV for balanced ventilation.
@@ScottTrue Thanks Scott. Because of you and your video with Matt, I learned that Corbitt could do the same "Advanced Manual J's" (is what I like to call it). So he really helped me on my current project (which is getting a Zehnder unit.) My spec houses all get the 'spot' Panasonic ERV's and usually come in between 1.5 - 2.0 ACH.
Thanks Wally, video forthcoming
What was the solution for getting the dryer to work with the tightness of the house?
There was a fresh air damper that would bring in outside air into the return of the air handler. It was set on a schedule that didn't open often. Now, I have it set to stay open. So that can passively bring in make up air when the dryer runs. It works but I think we, as an industry can do better. I think it should be a dedicated damper that dumps near a return so it can be conditioned.
He winter make up air Scoot/Corbett- in a new two system house, what do you think about having an erv upstairs for most of and ventilating dehumidifier in basement for most of the summer make up air.
Still have to exhaust the lower floor bathrooms into the ERV, still have to run the ERV at some continuous level- sounds like a more complicated setup that would generally over-ventilate.
So why was there condensation dripping from the AC duct? This was mentioned at the start.
The hod humid air from outside was leaking through loose penetrations in the attic. The depressurization provided the force for this to happen. That humid air would then condensate on a cold surface which is that grille right next to the spot that the air was coming in.
My thoughts on supplying make up air for the clothes drier is this,. My drier is on the main floor now in our master bathroom of our single level home.
I'm considering putting in what I call a "Shepard's hook duct"! I would cut a 6" hole in the ceiling and install a 6" metal duct up into the attic, BUt it must rise up and then hook back down to prevent cold air from drifting down into the master bath when the drier is off line.
Cold air won't drift up first to then go down, as the Shepard's hook forced the cool air to go upwards before going down.
When the drier is in use it will pull the needed air
( We have a propane drier) into the area near the drier.
The drier warms the area slightly normally and this would be countered by the incoming cold supply air.
I figured the shorter the distance between the Shepard's hook supply to the drier the better.
Bugs, birds, water, etc, etc are not present in the attic and can be easily checked by going into the attic.
Open to opinions??
Wow, Brian, you sent me over to Google in a hurry to see if this is a fad. I do not advise this because I’m certain it won’t work exactly as you plan, though it’s a very interesting concept. The thing that will drive air up and down a duct to the attic is not the temp of the attic air, it’s the pressure of the home wrt the attic. When air leaks from the top floor ceiling into the attic under stack pressure, this duct would pull air from the attic down even when the dryer is not running. You’ll have major dust build up and uncontrollable heat/humidity swings.
Hi Corbett, I recently watched a video on RUclips from Yale Appliances that talked about “The Best Dishwashers for 2023” and at minute 3:25 they talk about a Beko dishwasher (model DDT39424X) that has “Ion-Guard”, which apparently is a system that “injects negatively charged ions into the dishwasher to counteract the positive ions of odors”.
ruclips.net/video/grJTcHWA8oo/видео.html
Since this is happening within a sealed environment, would it work or is it just a gimmick? Have you heard of other appliances, like perhaps a fridge/freezer or a washing machine or dyer that uses negative ions to fight odors?
They use ozone generators inside large tanks in reverse osmosis water purification systems, mostly in restaurants and coffee shops. I’d say since the new chems are not going to be inhalable, or on our skin, it’s a lot less concerning to me, but maybe a chemist will set us straight.
So why was there moisture damage at the base of the sliding patio door and the french patio door if they were personally sealed by Scott?
As stated, the depressurization is what provided the force for the outside air to find the path of least resistance. I mentioned before in the comments that the weather stripping in the door can provide a path. There was another thing I didn't mention. I site build my door pans which involves using liquid flash to seal the inside bottom of the door to the door pan. This liquid flash is the back damn for water and is also part of the air barrier. When I took the flooring off, I saw that the flooring guys cut this flashing completely out.
at 8:41 "describing crossing where you have to use ERVs, right, you can't use____" and we don't hear what we can't use. What did you say?
Sorry. Bath fans.
When the house is tight, an exhaust only method, like "normal" bathroom fans will depressurize the house and pull in air (hot humid air in my case) through the path of the least resistance (in my case, that path was around the weather stripping in the doors). Then, there is the supply only ventilation method which pulls in outside air into the air handler return or dehumidifier (if there is one). Then, there is what I call the unbalanced system which is what many builders that are trying to do better default to. This house was unbalanced, meaning I have exhaust and supply of outside air into the return. In theory, it sounds good, but the exhaust and fresh air never match. I prefer 100% balanced now. This means using an ERV and make up air for things like range hoods, dryers, and any other appliance pulling air out.
@@ScottTrue Assuming an ERV is present in a low ACH50 house, would a ventless heat pump dryer still require make up air?
@@ramblinjamman No. This is exactly why people like Corbett recommend the heat pump dryer. My home buyers have normal dryers so I'm having to come up with ways to handle that. I'll be explaining one way in a video with Matt soon.
@@ScottTruewow Scott, I just found this channel with your interview! Excellent!
When I built my last home, I was so worried about my Dryer & Whole House vacuum needing make up air. I was so pleased to discover the Ultra-Air XT-105 & XT-155 Dehumidifiers with the make-up air intake!
Man I appreciate your content!
I so wish you were in Coastal NC to be my builder!!!
Cheers, Eric