SV Ramble On | Installing a Bilge Pump
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- We've been wanting to install a redundant manual bilge pump in the cockpit for a while now. We chose the Whale Gusher Titan bulkhead mount and installed it so it can be operated from the helm.
CORRECTION: At about 3 minutes Rich references the AWWA for the hose clamps, but that's not right. He thinks ABYC recommends them because they don't rust.
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Music: The Big Guns by Silent Partner
Excellent video! Thanks for sharing all the great tips.
Our pleasure!
Thats BAD ASS! New subscriber here! Love your boat!
Assuming you're talking about the boat name...we're Zep fans for sure!
Great episode, man! Looking forward to installing one of these babies on our boat. You made it look easy.
Right on man, glad you liked it. Thanks for checking us out.
yup. I really like your videos. thank you.
Glad you like them!
well done thanks
enjoyed the video, great tips as replacing my bilge pump is on todays agenda.... however, with a pump that size perhaps a backing plate to distribute forces on the fiberglass?
Better if they were longer. Hahah. But I have an idea of what goes into making a video. 🤙
Thank you very much for a really nice video. One question-why no check valve or other shutoff valve to stop back flow? I know of several near sinking or flooding incidents and a few sinking due to back flow under unusual conditions.
Thanks Craig, the manual bilge pump already has a built-in flap check on the outlet side of the pump. Also, the discharge thru-hull fitting is located as high as possible above the max heeled waterline of the boat near the stern. Unlikely that a boarding wave or following seas would enter the discharge fitting, but if it did, the built in flap would stop any flooding. On electric bilge pumps an anti-siphon vented loop should always be installed if the exit point is below the max heeled waterline. I don’t recommend on/off valves because I would forget to open or close them when needed, and mechanical check valves add considerable additional head pressure to already typically underrated electric bilge pumps. Mechanical check valves also have moving parts that usually fail at the most inopportune moment, so I suppose the rule of thumb is to choose the lesser of the two evils. I’m a big fan of redundancy, so we’ve installed a total of 4 pumps in our single deep bilge; 1 manual operated from the main salon, 1 manual operated from the cockpit, and 2 electric pumps that switch on at different levels. Also, our electric bilge switches are the liquid sensing solid state type and have no moving parts. Thanks again for watching.
What are you guys using for your automatic bilge pumps? The title was a lil "deceiving" 😉.
My T37 has a PAR diaphragm pump that's due for a rebuild but is of little value in a real situation. Great vids BTW! I've installed a ton of Rule pumps on clients boats as well as my own but quality isn't what it once was.
Hey Oliver, thanks for the thumbs up and thanks for watching. Currently for electric bilge pumps we're running a small Rule 800 with a float switch in the deep end of the bilge. I have a Rule 3700 that came with the boat but I still need to reinstall it. I want to make a bracket to mount both of them with the 3700 higher than the 800 for when the "S" hits the fan. Funny you would mention the PAR pump, because as part of our shower rehab video series I just recently rebuilt our Jabsco 36600 which pumps out the shower sump. The full kit with all the diaphragms, check valves and belt was about $120 on Amazon and that video should be out in a week or two. Stay tuned, and thanks again for watching.
@@svrambleon I look forward to seeing it. I was actually thinking about the monster Rule pump too (if it works for the commercial guys..).
I'm tossing a rule 2000 in the bilge for now but will keep the diaphragm pump because it does a great job of getting rid of ALMOST all the water. The monster will have to wait until I can afford it.
Good job... thanks
Thanks man, never hurts to have a backup plan.
Good job, but I don't know why people use that thin hose when it's something that can save your boat!
Lets hope this will not be required, BUT, nice to have piece of mind.
90 degree fittings should be avoided, better use two 45 degree fittings, far less hose resistance. Even better: use no fittings at all if possible.
I would've loved to but there's no other way to get the inlet down where i need it in the bilge and not be in the way of the electric primary pumps.
Nice job Rich. But, you know those hose clamp tails are going to bite you sometime in the future!