Dryer Troubleshooting - Start and Motor Switch Testing
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- Video show you how the motor switch and start switch work on a dryer. If you have a dryer that will not start when you press the button or will shut off after you leave off the button, these are what you need to test.
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The name for that circuit is called,a sealing circuit.It in fact seals around the start button electrically.Good video,have been electrician for 42 years,and i love to teach.
Amazing... I spent what felt like forever searching for schematics and general help on how to direct line power test this exact type of motor (same connector)... Had an general idea but I really didn't want to blow mine motor up doing the test. I followed this video, even just used a regular house light for starter switch, alligator clips, and I was able to prove my dryer motor was good - not the issue. I did find and fix another cause. Thanks a ton Bill!
so what was going on with Daryl's dryer? mine is a Kenmore elite 110.72956100 gas dryer. I've changed out the start relay and it does the same thing, and that was $33, and a motor would be $52. If that's not it, I'm screwed!
I could test the dryer motor by watching your video and it worked . You are a very good teacher.
Thanks
Nice to see the parts actually moving like they are supposed to , and they are not !! Thanks Bill for an easy to understand video like this one !! Bob D
Thanks. I am fixing a dryer for the first time and couldn't figure out why the dryer was supposed to stay on after the start button was released. The circuit seemed to be centered around the motor and even the heater wire was going to the motor. I now understand there is a switch in the motor that activates when the motor is spinning.
Thank you I believe you just solved my issue with my dryer. It kept stopping after running for about 30 minutes or less. We had to wait for it to cool down before we could start back up again. I went through all the fuses and replace almost all of them except for the heating element. I was about to throw in the towel.
The best video I have seen on the wiring. Very detailed.
Thanks for this video, after 2 hours of trying to figure out why my heating element stayed on no matter if the timer dial was in the on or off position (scary!), this video gave me the confidence to dig into the switch itself. Contacts on the heating element arms were fused closed. Quick screwdriver pry, a little file, and dryer works as expected. Thank you!!
Great video! Thanks for posting. Discovered that two things weren't working on my dryer. One was that the start push button would not remain engaged. It did however start the motor and turn the drum. At the same time, I noted that even with the drum spinning I wasn't getting heat in the dryer. So it seems both functions of the motor switch were not working. After cleaning the motor and seeing if the centrifugal switch was working and closing the contacts on the motor switch it showed that the contacts were closing properly and connecting the heating circuit and the hold in for motor to keep running. It seems to me, since I had two symptoms (the motor not staying on after depressing the start button, and the heating circuit not being engaged) the problem could have been that dust had accumulated around the centrifugal switch preventing its full travel and thereby making two things fail at the same time. Having tried your circuit test here in the office i saw that the dryer motor would stay engaged through the relay when the motor comes on, I'll see tonight if I also have heat in the dryer. Thanks again for your superb video. P.S. So l think a tech might just have been able to suction out enough lint so that the centrifugal clutch had full travel.
Bill knows what hes talking about .Great video
Guillermo Loredo Thanks!
Thank you very much i just changed motor in my dryer and because of you i could connected the right way .
Thank you again and sorry for asking about the negative wire !!
Thank you for your great video. Wanting to use this motor for a project and was not sure how to hook up power to it. Just a little added info, the blue wire (terminal #3) is hot (120v), on your power cord its the one with "no rib" on it. Terminal #2 is the neutral wire connected to terminal #2, through the start switch, then to terminal #5. On your power cord, it is the one that "has a rib" on. The identified wire is always the neutral. The wide blade on the power is neutral.
jim barber wide blade on power cord is neutral. the hot wire on power cord is not ribbed, usually it is smooth.
excellent explanation. didn't have this problem but it helped me convert my blower for a forge.
Thank you! But I found this after I just went thru the same routine with a closed switch and a newer dryer. I had the circuit diagram, and was able to identify which was normally open and which was normally closed when I pushed the centrifugal "latcher". I never thought anyone would have the same problem.
Hey Bill, first off, thank you for your service, Hooraah! Your video was the most helpful one I've seen as far as wiring instructions. Just like some of the comments, I salvaged the dryer motor for a project but the speed is to fast for it. I noticed on the switch cover "240v, term 1-2" how do I do the wiring connection to put it on 220v mode, hoping that it will spin half speed when plugged in on a 110v source. Thank you.
Awesome Job Bill!!! You forgot the say that 120 VAC can kill... used Proper PPE. : )
Thanks Bill! You are awesome for showing this.
Thanks men for the help. Make our life easy
Bill, thanks for the tutorial. Very nice!
You connect you meter to the circuit, apply power, and then select setting to measure on the circuit?
Nice video. You taught me how power and start the motor for another application.
Thanks for your help. Keep up the good videos. It’s a lot of help to DIYers.
thanks Bill, your video very helpful as i have the same problem. will test and see if it's the motor switch, keep doing your videos.
Great video on motor and the switch on it. But also mention a video on the motor contact switching for the heat elements to con on.
Can u please tell where to go and see the video on it.
thanks! Bill pin 1-7 on real motor 3395654 marked as 26436G1=>neutral is 6, hot is 4, start button leads neutral to 5. 4-5 is run coil and 4-3 is start coil. motor switch during running close 1-2, disconnect 5-3 and close 5-6. I use real motor pin#.
Great video. My start switch turns on the motor just like this. But my dryer still doesn't work. All the fuses are new, door switch, start switch, timer. All of it. All I get when I push the start switch is the buzzing sound when I push it and the timer is in one of the off positions. Everything has power and everything has continuity.
And of late reply but it was a bad motor or winding switch it gets stuck and won't turn on you gotta pull the clutch back with your finger. But in the end it's the motor hope you got yours fixed.
@@octaviogarcia928 It was the receptacle/power supply. It read that it had power but somehow wasn't enough. After all that work, we tried another machine (that we knew worked) and it didn't in that receptacle. Rewired back to the panel with new receptacle and breaker and both dryers worked fine. Ugh! Leaned a lot about dryers though.
Great content and this issue most videos don't cover. But it's important cause it can leave the element running without people noticing. Thanks man for your knowledge
excellent explanation Bill Newberry
So you have 3 wires that are actually coming from the motor coils itself.
These wires are hooked up to pin 3, pin 4 and pin 5
There should be one more wire of course total of 4 wires. Two for run winding and two for start winding.
So one end of the both coils must be connected together down inside the motor and that one ends up being called The Common.
So you end up like this: Start wire, Common wire, Run wire. Or you can say Start, Common, Run. SCR.
So which one of the three wires ( White, Tan, Blue) is Start, Common and Run?
How do you determine?
You have only one option of course. You check the resistance between each of the wires. You end up with 3 resistance readings of course. And certainly each has different value.
Based on that you determine which is which.
Consclusoin:
The lite blue is common. It is the one that incidently is the one that gets power when you close the door.
It is pin 3 counting from left. The lite blue wire
Pin 4, the tan wire is the start winding.
And pin 5 is the run. The white wire.
So it ends up like this:
Your dryer start switch has 3 wires. One is the hot incoming that is fed by the timer switch. That hot incoming is directly connected to one of the other outgoing wire on the switch. And the end of that wire ends up at pin 2 of the motor harness.
When you push the start button, you connect the other, the third wire and the end of that wire ends up at pin 5, the run winding. The white wire.
The power at pin 5 also ends up feeding the start winding ( pin 4) by means of that copper arm whe the arm of centrigugal switch is up. So the push button sends power to run and start winding. The instant you let go of the push button, you cut off the power to both start and run winding (pin 4 and pin 5). However the arm ( the copper arm) under pin 5 drops due to centrifugal switch arm falling and contacts pin 2 which is the second wire on the push button so the run winding circuit is complete that way.
Thanks
Thanks Bill , It really helps!
Nice video thanks!!!
thanks for do it. i run the motor thanks to you
Great life saver even thou I felt this was the problem u explain it well
You can replace the motor switch. I have done it several times.
Where did you buy it from@? Link
10X ALOT HELPED ME
Thanks bill..
BILL THANX! I tracked the problem down to the switch I pulled the switch out of motor and it is rivited together I will drill rivits out and see if I can fix it, but if i can't fix can I buy new switch and where? THANX AGAIN!
Thank you
hello bill did all the test, the thing that fail was the for continuity was the timer. my question is if the timer fail the contiunity test would the heat not come on? thats the only problem with this electric dryer no heat everything else is working.
Trying to figure out why our Frigidaire Affinity dryer has no power to the mother board. There's 240v from the power junction going to the connector on the motor but there's no power leaving the connector on the motor. Looks like that wire has continuity to the fuse - or limiter that it goes to but no voltage. Any ideas? Thanks so much for the great vids man,
Thank you 🙏
Very helpful information! I have a quick question, my dryer is spinning, but the problem is once I turn the timer, the heat is on without hitting the start button. what are the likely cause of the problem, and what to check? Thanks!
Thanks!! Very helpful!!
Hi Bill. Great video!! After testing my motor it still starts but not run. I have opened the motor switch to see burnt carbon deposit on the upper contact blades. I cleaned them, then used a steel lime to gently grind the surface and polished them with a 2000 grain metal sandpaper. Both surfaces are now soft and shiny but my concern is with the beads thickness. Would it be possible there is still a gap between the blades thus not having the motor to run. And if, so would it make sense to put some solder on them to increase there thickness? Or is the problem comes from somewhere else? Everything else is fine, fuses, switches, relays etc... Thanks in advance for your input.
I have a blue in 2 and orange in 3 and black in 4. They are all soldered to those connections..My problem is that the motor will not start any more since I dropped it from my working table (about 3 feet). I was using the motor as a sander.
thxxx,great video!!!,what if dryer runs but no heat,,,,& all heater ,,tstats,,fuse limit,,all ohm good,,,can that centrifical swith prevent element from coming on
+Raybo sflorida Yes, the switch can prevent the element from coming on. The contacts could be burnt up.
Bill thank you for this video. I have a same problem when I press the button will work and shut off as soon as I let go. Do you think is a relay problem or the motor itself problem?
Thank you, thats clear for me
Thanks , great video , run into it trying to solve my Samsung dryer problem . Heats up on start but does not restart heating unless I turn dryer off. All thermostats and coil check out . Thinking it may be heather relay on the board . Any Ideas? Thanks
Great job Bill. It is the exact problem I ran into. My question is could this problem have been caused by something else, like maybe a faulty control panel or overload or faulty sensor or switch? Also would this problem cause motor to lock up?
+iamsordy4u What's the problem your having?
Thank You Sir !!!
very well done...thx
Bill, nice video. Quick question. If I buy a new dryer motor for my GE, a WE17X10010, do you have to have a new jumper harness with it in order to plug it in to the new machine or can you just use the harness that comes from the machine that was plugged into the old one? thanks.
Hello bill my dryer also isn't running. When I turn on the settings the heater comes on without pressing start. When I press start the motor doesn't start. I would add that once I turn to any setting the dryer has a low buzz sound.
Sorry to bother you again but my theory about the centrifugal clutch was wrong. In reading about the circuit, I found that the Even Heat Control Board generates 48V Dc to energize both two relays, the motor relay and the heater relay. So in addition to your circuit on the motor with the centrifugal switch, the even heat control board generates 48 VDC to energize two more relays. So in the troubleshooting diagram you are checking not only to see if you have 120 AC at the motor to hold in the on switch but also have the 48VDC relay. So as it shows in the video it is possible for the Even Heat Control board to affect both the Heating and Holding of the on circuit. Seems I had three shorted 16 volt zener diodes (total 48 VDC) so that both the heater relay and motor relays were affected. Here's the video site ruclips.net/video/TbMurRamCLQ/видео.html
Hank
thank you Bill, this old kenmore 70 dryer motor will run about half a minute then cut off; even in " air dry " on the timer . i cleaned up the centrifugal switch breaker points so the dryer would heat up again ' the dryer did warm up, so i shut it off. On the second time i try to run it , it started this latest mess of now cutting off after half a minute or so. After another 30 seconds you can hear the reset click on and smell electric wires burning I will look at the motor again for a short circuit but i suspect the centrifugal switch that i cleaned the contacts are causing this old machine to refuse to work. help help
Thxs
THANK YOU!!!
Great video, My dryer runs fine (shuts off when it's suppose to, settings all work etc.,) IF I hook up a heavy object (vise grips) to the spring loaded switch and keep it in the start position.
this is how the unit worked when i purchased the house and the previous owner said he's been using it like that for years.
i'm trying to avoid a motor replacement which is what it seems you say it probably is. do you agree?
lifesaver 2,thanks!!!
when I push my start button the motor hums I've got the drum out I can give it a push with my finger and it will take right off is that a bad motor?
Hello, my dryer turns on for 3-5 seconds then turns off. If I leave it, one minute later it turns on again for 3-5 seconds and again turns off again and just keeps repeating that cycle. Is the motor over heating?
Lifesaver!
Amazing!
Sir,my kenmore 500 110-69532800 is not heatng but runs...* checked every thermo switch,now have drum out..I unplugged motor,then put meter pegs on outside 2 terminals..When I pushed the black collar 9n shaft inward,it beeped..Now when motor is turning by hand,nothing is happening,does that mean arm is bad on motoro switch?What makes that collar push in to open the circuit?When I push it in by hand,it beeps..Elec dryer not heating...Element even checked.lol...Thank you for helping people with your videos
I have the opposite problem: heater comes on even without pressing the start switch, and no noise from the motor at all. Heater only goes off when the timer is moved to the off position. Am guessing this is also due to bad switches in the motor.
How do you verify the start windings. It hums and runs if I assist the drum turning. Acts as if it has a blown capacitor, but this is a Kenmore and does not come with a capacitor. I have checked it's fully disassembled, all are in place. Nothing seems broken, it just will not start without assistance; even with the drum removed and the tension switch engaged.
👍🏻
Hello Bill, On my dryer, when I press the start switch, the motor tries to start but is unable to turn the tumbler drum. It is as if there is too much friction. I can get the drum to rotate if I give it a push. The dryer will run for about 10 minutes then shut off. Does that sound like a bad motor or motor switch? Do you know if these motors have a start capacitor that can be replaced such as the ones on HVAC units?
Mr. Newberry is there any difference when you have a 4 wire start switch?
Hi bill this test is to show that the swiitch is bad correct.,because mines is doing the exact same thing /
Using a dryer motor for a fan using the starter motor switch how does it wire
Mr Bill thanks ..I have a peculiar situation when i press the start button on the same GE dryer and it sounds the end of cycle buzzer buzzes Any help will be appreciated
I watched your other video on trouble shooting and tested the motor through pins 4 and 5 and got good readings on my ohm meter, so if I understand this correctly the winding of the motor could be test good, but the motor is still defective because of this switch?
Can you bypass the switch and directly hook up to the wires that come out of the motor unles the issue is then you have to mess the clutch or....?
Bill I think the spring is bad in my motor switch that runs the arm that makes it heat up does a new motor come with new spring and arm
Hi. just need your advise...my combo stackable dryer motor is not running when it is connected to the pulley and belt., It cause humming, then its stops. But when i took all that connected to the motor or all the loads, the motor is running. Means without the pulley and belt connected. Does it mean, i need a new motor? I was thinking this motors in a dryers had a capacitors only need to change..
Hey Bill maybe you could answer a question for me. I have a Roper Model: REX4635EQ2 with no heat.
I have tested all wires, thermostats, fuse, timer, heat element, motor switch for continuity all was good.
When the motor is running there is no power running from motor to element,(the wire is good and it's direct point A to B) It seems like the centrifugal switch is not engaging when it's turned on. When tested manually switch works and has good continuity.
There is power (110-120v I forget exactly) coming from the timer through all the thermostats etc to the heating element but that's it. Thanks for any help you can give
Do you have a video which explains why my Samsung DV45H7000EW/A2 runs for 5-6 seconds, then shuts off and restarts after 2.5-3 minutes and repeats? I checked my belt tensioner and some of the tumbler wheels and they needed care (clean/lube) but didn’t fix the issue. Heaters don’t come on...
THANKS BILL
IS THAT MOTOR FOR A SAMSUNG DRYER?
Hi Bill, can a bad timer cause this same problem because I have a machine that has the exact symptom you show here but I also think the timer is not running as well or would the bad motor switch cause the timer not to function as well. Thanks for your help Tony M,
Tony M A bad motor switch can cause the motor to not run when the start button is pressed. A bad motor switch can also cause not heat even though the dryer will start up and run.
Motor test and Start switch test is where you need to go next.
Thanks for Watching!
Is there anyway to bypass the start button
I'm having this exact problem.. I've replaced the switch 3 times and nothing .. But when I touch the two wires together the dryer starts and keeps running .. What can I do to fix
I have a dryer that starts as soon as you move the timer from off position. I disconnected the start switch and it will still start automatically. I have a feeling that the contacts in the motor are stuck. Is this possible, and/or have you seen this before? Thanks.
No motor will run without a negative and i don't see it on this video.
Please tell me haw your system can work without a negative wire?
When I jump my start switch to the motor and it works wouldn't that mean that all is OK? I changed the timer and new control board, and all the thermostat and other switches all check out as having continuity including door switch, then absolutely nothing happens. I'm baffled by this.
I have a problem with my dryer i have replaced the thermo switch high temp switch and the one you tap on the ground to reset. I have continuity with the top dial for timing and the switch on the motor i also replaced the heating element and all the other parts. the dryer runs but still wont heat. i checked continuity again on all the parts that i replaced and they are all good. what else could it be? i have a kenmore 90 series dryer
+Bill Newberry I'm using this same motor on a different project, but need to reverse it's starting rotation. Are #4 and #5 the Starting-Coil leads that I need to swap or do I need to swap #5 and another not shown or at a different terminal?
My Samsung dryer doesn’t start at all when you press power button.
There is power to from the wall to cable but no power when I press power button.
What could be the problem?
i have a real good one for you bill i have a kenmore he4 dryer that runs when it feels like it the problem i am having is i have some lights on my control panel on all the time when plugged in, the damp light, normal button light, looks like two 11 in display and a extra low light all are on. i can`t get into diagnostic mode and it will not start i can sometimes clear these light by pushing dry time start and cycle end buttons then it runs great until it stops again wtf it is driving me crazy please help
good afternoon Bill where do i find this switch to buy.
I hope you're still out there man. I have a problem with the same type of motor. The dryer started humming and stop tumbling so I took out the drum and the motor runs fine but once I put the drum back inside the motor just hums, seems like it doesn't have enough power to spin the drum. I saw another video where it says that if the motor is weak, the capacitor needs to be replaced, but I don't see any capacitor in this dryer. I tested the motor with a multimeter but everything seems ok, put it back in the dryer runs good, then I put the drum, belt and everything, then the motor just hums and it won't spin the drum. Do I have to replace the motor? Or is it a bad motor switch? And where can I find it?
Hector Guzman Hi Hector! Did you check the blow wheel,idler pulley???? Greetings buddy.
ceferino lopez hi. Those part seem to be ok. One guy who is an electro mechanic checked the motor and said there's nothing wrong with the motor and he told me it could be the switch that comes with the motor and he said the best way is to eliminate that switch and connect some wires directly to the motor with a toggle switch and that could solve the problem. I sorry for the late answer.
Hector Guzman Well Hector, don't know what to say,I had this issue before a long time ago,I don't remember the brand,it was a washer/dryer combo,and it had the same problem than yours,when I start it,it just hums,and didn't run,I could fix it,it was a loose wire on the motor capacitor,but this one,you say it doesn't have it,so try the switch on the motor,maybe that would do it.Good luck Hector.saludos brother.
ceferino lopez hm I'm going to check the other connections, like you say, it might be a loose wire. Thank you bro. Blessings.
Hey, did you fixed it? Im having exactly the same problem, i can hear humming but drum wont spin.
looks like 6 and 5 is connected to the start button.
Bill I have a GE Dryer, Model DPSR483EA0WW that doesn't heat. I tested the heater coils, the 4 thermostats, the motor centrifugal switch and the timer with a ohmmeter and they all checked good for continuity. Is it possible the heater coils are bad but still show continuity? The motor seems runs fine when I start the dryer.
Test the thermal fuse that he showed.
I don't see a thermal fuse on my dryer. The dryer schematic doesn't show a thermal fuse. I've also looked for one on the dryer. I only see the thermostats.
What about hummus
Motor does not start at all. It heats and timer works but no motor at all, no hum... I'm thinking start switch. Should i run out and get a volt meter?
+Damon216 It's weird that is heats without the motor running. What's your model number?
Roper by Whirlpool.... I have a volt meter and doing some tests on the start switch. I think somehow no power is getting to motor.
The ratio of the square root of the sum of squares of the RMS value of the harmonic component defines itself in a sinusoidal wave only if the distorted harmonic values are satisfied. right?
Cant fix the switch from the motor or replace
why arent these switches available new?
can i replace the motor switch without removing motor?
Are you still active? Are you still answering comments? I have a couple questions
p-brane he passed away in October 2016.
@@metalshredder4life817 from what? Heart attack ?