Don't write off those red (heater) wires too soon - might be very handy to have some way to signal/switch something on _after_ the blower/motor gets up to speed. Ex: Maybe run the sander motor through those wires. Now the "On" switch results in a sequencing of blower first to ensure dust mitigation, then sander to do job.
I did this. When i made my wood table saw, i used one of these motors (from a much bigger unit) and wired the vacuum cleaner to start through them. It's in general a good idea to never cut wires that aren't specifically assigned to something you can't use, you never know when you might have an use for them. I just tie them up neatly, and then put a ziptied bag over them to keep dust out.
He didn't cut them I think... Just removed them from the plastic connector. He could reinsert them I'm thinking if need be. I just don't see him overlooking that
Retired appliance tech here- the BEST way to remove those type blower wheels is to lightly clamp your vise grip on the motor pulley where the belt goes(so as to not dmg the ribbed pulley with the vise-grip teeth), then pinch ONE fan blade and swing the motor rotationally till you have the vise grip as far as it can go the one direction, then give a quick WHIP the other direction while still pinching the fan blade and let go at the last second and when the vice grip strikes the table (or the floor pan, of the dryer) the fan wheel spins right off as the vise grip comes to an abrupt stop - works like a champ EVERY TIME, and you'll never break the plastic fan when changing a motor
Yep! Same principal as an impact gun. :) Auto mechanic here. Very often a rusty bolt will break if it's loosened with a steadily applied torque such as via a plain socket wrench or breaker bar. In contrast, the fast impact action of an impact gun will loosen the rust and give it sharp rapidfire taps that eventually work it loose intact. Ford made an engine in the early 2000s called the "3 Valve Triton." I believe it came in V8 and V10 flavors. Anyway, they used this bizarre long sparkplug that was a bad design and it would get carbon fouled and rusty over the years until it was FIRMLY stuck in its hole. I ain't kidding either when I say they get stuck, that's S-T-U-C-K, stuck! The best way to remove them is with an impact gun while the engine is piping hot. Just get the strongest and smallest 1/2" impact you got and the tightest fitting extension and socket you got. You just make pretend that you're an F1 driver and take the truck for a race around the neighborhood, then immediately slam the plugs out with the impact without mercy. If they break, they break. 🤷🏻♂️ The ones that break were always going to be hopeless. They would've broken no matter what, especially with a ratchet. The extractor tool that gets broken plug bodies out of the hole works pretty good. Usually you'll get 5/8 or 6/8. The back ones are the worst. The impact action is critical for the job. You may think it's horrifying to imagine putting an impact on a sparkplug, but it's the only way to avoid an 8 hour book pay nightmare.
@@mannys9130bro, I am dealing with this problem! I got a damn 2003 Ford Expedition that I need to change plugs in 😢 what is the tool you speak of to get broken ones out cuz I’m quite sure it’s going to happen 🙃
That simple cutoff switch made of bent wire that lets the motor detect if the belt is intact or not is quite clever. My drier doesn't have anything like that and once announced its broken belt with what I can only describe as the screams of a hundred rubber chickens in a cement mixer.
I’ve always been proud of a clothes dryer fix I did many years ago. It was just a belt replacement but I couldn’t find the right sized dryer belt. Instead I found an old ford escort timing belt that fit, still running solid! #improvise
That was my experience as well. I suspect manufacturers tend to use whatever belts are the cheapest at the time to benefit from the economy of scale. They don't really make a secret of this, but they tend to list such parts with custom SKUs to make them seem like proprietary parts. My dad once tracked down a belt replacement from a car parts dealer just by showing them the broken belt, they measured it and found something off brand that was functionally identical. 12$ vs the $50-$100 asking price for "geniune" replacement parts from amazon and specialty suppliers.
”… so I have one, when I need one.” Exactly! I often get questions what I’m going to do with a lot of stuff that I “save” and I give the exact same answer. Some people confuse it with hoarding, but it is completely different thing (which require a skill) to understand what things are valuable, hard to make and hard to get (even if it can be a cheap thing), and also the value of having things to “browse” to help in a development process.
(And saving motors is awesome! Fixed my own furnace years ago when the blower fan gave up the ghost on a Friday night in January in Winnipeg! I just _happened_ to have a used replacement in my garage salvaged from someone else who had recently replaced their furnace.)
Interesting video. I have two motors that I need to use for something. Will check the wiring on my motors to find the correct power one. Hint for removing the fan the square in the center of the fan is for a 1/2" drive ratchet and extension. Easy peasey if use the ratchet.
I’m the same way with motors. I can’t throw one away even though I probably won’t use it. I have dozens of them lying around in my garage. It’s some kind of weird compulsion. It even pains me to toss out a junk motor. I have the same compulsion with gas cans, computer hard drives and almost any tool.
Welcome to having diogenes, I have it and also digital diogenes, which is a little less bad but it makes me spend a big chunk of my money buying HDDs to keep storing data haha
You are a man after my own heart. I have my own collection of motors, some from over 30 years ago that I salvaged. I just added our old clothes dryer motor to the collection. Motor was good but the dryer was old and it was time for a new one.
Nice. I'm the same way, I mounted an old squirrel cage furnace fan on a rolling cart for my dad to use on his patio, works great and has more distance and less spread than a conventional fan.
That was so so generous and kind of you to show us and educate us noobs on how to tell what the wires refer to and how to test them. Any chance you can do a video describing my certain elements have more wires than others in a dryer or washer? For example I was so overwhelmed when I opened up my dryer and saw the timer switch had like 6 wires and capacitor had what seems to be 4 wires and the cycling thermostat had 4 but the thermal fuse and high limit thermostat only had 2! Can you maybe do a video getting into all of these elements and why each has the amount of wires it has?! Thanks so much! (If u can’t do a video maybe u can do a written explanation) ?
Neat. I had a very similar motor go bad on a washing machine. The nylon sleeve that the centrifugal switch rides on became detached from the rotor and so the start windings would not disengage when the motor spun up.
I also collect motors, Matthias... But mostly DC motors. 😬 Either way, those are fantastic to build small shop machines! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
you can get left hand thread. you might put a work arbor on the left hand thread, and ruin the threads. the work arbor will hold grinding wheels, etc, and there are tapered ones that screw into buffing wheels, so you can change from tripoli to like swest all purpose white as i used on deer antler stuff decades ago
Seems to me that volt-free connection on the motor (two red wires) could be very handy - if you end up using this motor to make a tool, the red wires could be used to control a separate dust collector on a different circuit. Given the fact its designed to handle the power of an inductor - the switching mechanism can probably handle anything you want to throw at it. Another idea that occured to me is if you had some kind of multi-stage dust collection system (using multiple fans), you could daisy-chain them on a single switch with multiple power sources.
I just got one before yesterday, it took me hours to get it removed from a broke dryer., tested and is working well but I am still not able to unscrew the fan which I like a lot because designed in the way it can serve as a micro turbine if cast fur a durable use.
My drier uses extra contacts on the centrifugal switch to run the cycle-end buzzer. If the motor is not energized but the centrifugal switch is engaged (indicating the motor is turning) the buzzer sounds. Saved them the cost of a 1-second timer relay. Actually that must have been my previous drier; the current one has not required service yet so I would not know how it is wired.
you should have Kept it together and made a mini dust collector Cuz they look like they're weak but if you make a box for them they amplify their suction power and they can get pretty strong
You know I wonder if a motor like this with the blower in place would be good for a strip sander with integrated dust collection. Sure it’s not all too powerful but I can’t build a blower out of wood so this seems like a reasonable alternative
I collect motors, and Li Ion batteries, and power supplies of all kinds ... Lots of small DC motors, especially, and, lately, power tool motors, 12 - 18 VDC... Now, to find the time to use them!
the fastener location on that style of motor was very perplexing for me, as there are no fasteners . whenever i save a motor i also look for a way to take it to bits so i can clean and replace bearings in need be. i got a motor just like that one from an old dryer and its centrifugal clutch was busted so i had to find a way in. so yea, there are no fasteners but a spelter socket type method of assembly.
I too had an intact take- off motor from a dryer and made a buffer- polisher machine, it works well but gets very hot in a fairly short period. I think the duty cycle rating of those types of motors are short "on" duration, longer "off".
@@BeachsideHank _How_ hot? It's typical for motors to get hot during normal operation. For example, the motor in my desk fan typically operates at about 65°C on low.
Did you try open Windows at different levels? I managed to blow air from outside into our house by opening the door to our hot, not sealed attic. My assumption is, that the hot air wants to escape upwards, but cant due to air pressure. When opening the door and a window inside, the air from outside replaces the air that flows out, creating a strong air stream without a single watt of electrical power.
Love your videos. Have you ever looked at the motors for those coin operated kiddie rides? trying to learn about them now to make my own ride. Thats what landed me here. This video defintely helps me map out some of the raw materials. Thanks
I collect motors too. I have 3 5-gallon buckets full of them in my attic. Most of them have so many wires they look like a box of Crayolas, so there they'll stay.
A word of advice, when connecting a motor and if you're not sure if the connection is right, use a heater in series with it. If the motor shorts, the heater will save you having to run to the breaker :) If it runs ok, you can remove the heater and plug in directly...
How do you mean? Could you please explain this? I'm trying to wire a very similar motor but similar ones in the past have blown my breakers. So i was thinking of wiring in a 120v like 2 by 5 inch circuit breaker i got at the auto parts store. Would that work the same?
@@axalblimes2799 imagine wiring a switch in series to turn the motor on/off. Now, still in series, add a clothes iron or a space heater. What this does is allow the motor to run, but if there is a short, the iron will heat up. Basically, you'll know the instant you click the switch, within the first couple of seconds... You don't need to keep the iron in series for long, if the motor is operational, you remove the iron and plug the motor directly.
@@axalblimes2799 The breaker will also save you from having to run down to the big breaker, but it has to be rated accordingly. A clothing iron or space heater doesn't care much.
... I was thinking that a pulley and belt to a few levers and you can shake spray paint cans. We all know how we hate to "shake for a full minute" before using them.
Hello Matt, I have the same motor, not the piece that goes on top, I want to use it as a fun and I do not have the white part that goes on top. Could you tell me how to wire it? I know the black and white may be what I need to wire for it to work, and the blue and red wires may be different speeds but I am not sure. Thanks.
The "nut" inside the blower fan is round and knurled. Short of welding/epoxying it, it's not at all useful. If you come across more of the motors, some have a longer shaft and some have the pully and fan threads reversed. i.e. the fan "nut" has normal threads and the pully has reverse. Just FYI. :)
Very helpful. I just acquired my first motor from my old garage door and haven't started tinkering yet. States 115v, 4.6 amps, 1,000 rpm. Think it's suitable for anything? I'd be interested in building a small bandsaw or small wood lathe.
Can you tell me is the number 4 or five spot on the motor the hot wire? The other is neutral correct? And the green wire going to the bent piece of flat copper is the ground?
weird that there isn't a capacitor for the starter winding, normally the capacitor is used to give the 90 degree phase shift edit: never mind, it's a split phase induction motor
Whenever I have open 120Vac connections, I tape down the wires and think about what might yank on them before I turn on the power. He should have done that.
@@Malungeon18436571 Not just sometimes! Due to conservation of angular momentum, a sudden start of rotation inevitably produces a perpendicular torque. You see this all the time on BattleBots when robots with high-speed horizontal spinners compete. Every time they make a turn, the torque throws up one or the other of their wheels, making it look like they're dancing. They're not dancing. They're miserable. They're forced to fight day in and day out, getting their guts kicked in. And no robotic sex, either.
Would that motor be strong enough to run a rotor off of each side, and produce more air flow? Not sure how that would be incorporated into a dust collector or whatever, but it seems a waste to not take advantage of it.
yikes when you put that wood pry bar in the fan to remove it I cringed.....just last week I had to replace ours and it cost me $170. FYI that centre hub on the blower fits a 3/8 drive ratchet. for removal and reinstall.
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 Lol 😂 naaa I got warranty for appliances and my machine is 20 years old wanted a new one and wanted to kill the motor to get a new one
Sort of confused. He says the starter winding is smaller, creating greater resistance, leading to a phase shift. But then when he measures it with the ohmeter (when centrifical switch isn't depressed) it says the starter winding has a resistance of 1.8 ohms in comparison 3.6 when it is running. Why does the resistance go UP when the starter winding is disconnected?
Not sure about the use of the phrase 'greater resistance' in the explanation - the starter winding is just wound differently to give the temporary start up phase shift (thinner wire but fewer turns could still give the same resistance). Answering your query: The starter and main windings appear to be both 3.6 ohms d.c. resistance, but are in parallel when both are connected - not in series. Two 3.6 ohm resistors in parallel gives 1.8 ohms. When the starter winding is disconnected, there is just one at 3.6 ohms.
I’ve never had a issue w it’s the right tools. Socket driver in the blower wheel and and socket on the pulley at the other end. On ones with a speed reducing belt the blower shaft has a flat surface to get a crescent or ring spanner on to. And just remember to turn the right way since they are reverse thread
Im trying to accomplish the same thing as a dust collector motor, but for some reason the motor gets really hot after only a few seconds work. What the heck am I doing wrong.
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 ya I thought I followed it close. But it was pulled apart when I got it. I have half a harness, and everything else is missing. I'll keep trying. Love what you do here, unfortunately I'm trial and error, I know very little about electrical.....very little.
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 I'm not sure if I can share a picture of what it is I'm working on, through hear, but I have tried 10 different ways, 2 ran the motor both times it heated up very fast, didn't allow it to get to hot though. Used a sensor to watch if the temp spiked or not.
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 Okay :) True, you probably couldn't explain it very well in a RUclips comment. I trust you enough...I'll look it up and let you know what I come up with. 👍
Without getting technical and nerdy basically DC uses the entire conductor where AC uses the outer most of the conductor cause the resistance to be higher. Kind of like you had a smaller wire for the AC to travel on.
@@tom5256 That is skin effect and it's not what Matthias is talking about (at 60Hz skin effect is pretty much negligible). The thing with "AC resistance", or impedance as it's properly called, is that inductors (such as a motor's coil) behave as shorts for DC but due to complex reasons actually behave kind of like resistors for AC, in the sense that they limit the current that can travel through
@@gigigigiontis8 Thanks for the info...I'm still reading on it and trying to understand...it's kinda complex, my wife was trying to get me to do something while was reading about it and guess who won that one :)
Don't write off those red (heater) wires too soon - might be very handy to have some way to signal/switch something on _after_ the blower/motor gets up to speed. Ex: Maybe run the sander motor through those wires. Now the "On" switch results in a sequencing of blower first to ensure dust mitigation, then sander to do job.
I did this. When i made my wood table saw, i used one of these motors (from a much bigger unit) and wired the vacuum cleaner to start through them. It's in general a good idea to never cut wires that aren't specifically assigned to something you can't use, you never know when you might have an use for them. I just tie them up neatly, and then put a ziptied bag over them to keep dust out.
I was thinking the exact same thing as soon as he described it. Lots of possibilities there.
He didn't cut them I think... Just removed them from the plastic connector. He could reinsert them I'm thinking if need be. I just don't see him overlooking that
@@jimsjacob Yeah he just depinned the connector
False alarm guys.
THANK GOD!
Retired appliance tech here- the BEST way to remove those type blower wheels is to lightly clamp your vise grip on the motor pulley where the belt goes(so as to not dmg the ribbed pulley with the vise-grip teeth), then pinch ONE fan blade and swing the motor rotationally till you have the vise grip as far as it can go the one direction, then give a quick WHIP the other direction while still pinching the fan blade and let go at the last second and when the vice grip strikes the table (or the floor pan, of the dryer) the fan wheel spins right off as the vise grip comes to an abrupt stop - works like a champ EVERY TIME, and you'll never break the plastic fan when changing a motor
Yep! Same principal as an impact gun. :) Auto mechanic here. Very often a rusty bolt will break if it's loosened with a steadily applied torque such as via a plain socket wrench or breaker bar. In contrast, the fast impact action of an impact gun will loosen the rust and give it sharp rapidfire taps that eventually work it loose intact. Ford made an engine in the early 2000s called the "3 Valve Triton." I believe it came in V8 and V10 flavors. Anyway, they used this bizarre long sparkplug that was a bad design and it would get carbon fouled and rusty over the years until it was FIRMLY stuck in its hole. I ain't kidding either when I say they get stuck, that's S-T-U-C-K, stuck! The best way to remove them is with an impact gun while the engine is piping hot. Just get the strongest and smallest 1/2" impact you got and the tightest fitting extension and socket you got. You just make pretend that you're an F1 driver and take the truck for a race around the neighborhood, then immediately slam the plugs out with the impact without mercy. If they break, they break. 🤷🏻♂️ The ones that break were always going to be hopeless. They would've broken no matter what, especially with a ratchet. The extractor tool that gets broken plug bodies out of the hole works pretty good. Usually you'll get 5/8 or 6/8. The back ones are the worst. The impact action is critical for the job. You may think it's horrifying to imagine putting an impact on a sparkplug, but it's the only way to avoid an 8 hour book pay nightmare.
Damned Maytag have a small belt making the connection.. That trick will help with some but not all my stuck fans
@@mannys9130bro, I am dealing with this problem! I got a damn 2003 Ford Expedition that I need to change plugs in 😢 what is the tool you speak of to get broken ones out cuz I’m quite sure it’s going to happen 🙃
That simple cutoff switch made of bent wire that lets the motor detect if the belt is intact or not is quite clever. My drier doesn't have anything like that and once announced its broken belt with what I can only describe as the screams of a hundred rubber chickens in a cement mixer.
This ruclips.net/video/khOfSVULtsU/видео.html is of course what rubber chickens _should_ sound like.
@@massimookissed1023 r1w rd ah e2g2 were m1g61r dmg2w and
I’ve always been proud of a clothes dryer fix I did many years ago. It was just a belt replacement but I couldn’t find the right sized dryer belt. Instead I found an old ford escort timing belt that fit, still running solid! #improvise
That was my experience as well. I suspect manufacturers tend to use whatever belts are the cheapest at the time to benefit from the economy of scale. They don't really make a secret of this, but they tend to list such parts with custom SKUs to make them seem like proprietary parts. My dad once tracked down a belt replacement from a car parts dealer just by showing them the broken belt, they measured it and found something off brand that was functionally identical. 12$ vs the $50-$100 asking price for "geniune" replacement parts from amazon and specialty suppliers.
”… so I have one, when I need one.” Exactly! I often get questions what I’m going to do with a lot of stuff that I “save” and I give the exact same answer. Some people confuse it with hoarding, but it is completely different thing (which require a skill) to understand what things are valuable, hard to make and hard to get (even if it can be a cheap thing), and also the value of having things to “browse” to help in a development process.
(And saving motors is awesome! Fixed my own furnace years ago when the blower fan gave up the ghost on a Friday night in January in Winnipeg! I just _happened_ to have a used replacement in my garage salvaged from someone else who had recently replaced their furnace.)
I used a dryer motor with your strip sander V1 plans. Has worked well for many years!
Interesting video. I have two motors that I need to use for something. Will check the wiring on my motors to find the correct power one. Hint for removing the fan the square in the center of the fan is for a 1/2" drive ratchet and extension. Easy peasey if use the ratchet.
Yeah, I was wondering if that was 3/4" or 1". But same thing, the square is to get it off and on.
I’m the same way with motors. I can’t throw one away even though I probably won’t use it. I have dozens of them lying around in my garage. It’s some kind of weird compulsion. It even pains me to toss out a junk motor. I have the same compulsion with gas cans, computer hard drives and almost any tool.
ayyy gringo its me your hermano
Welcome to having diogenes, I have it and also digital diogenes, which is a little less bad but it makes me spend a big chunk of my money buying HDDs to keep storing data haha
You are a man after my own heart. I have my own collection of motors, some from over 30 years ago that I salvaged. I just added our old clothes dryer motor to the collection. Motor was good but the dryer was old and it was time for a new one.
Jeremy Felding had a great video about the centrifugal switch. Really ingenious, old tech
Nice. I'm the same way, I mounted an old squirrel cage furnace fan on a rolling cart for my dad to use on his patio, works great and has more distance and less spread than a conventional fan.
I made the exact same thing for my dad to use in his shop.
Wow, that red fan with the thin little centrifugal blades looks funny!
That was so so generous and kind of you to show us and educate us noobs on how to tell what the wires refer to and how to test them. Any chance you can do a video describing my certain elements have more wires than others in a dryer or washer? For example I was so overwhelmed when I opened up my dryer and saw the timer switch had like 6 wires and capacitor had what seems to be 4 wires and the cycling thermostat had 4 but the thermal fuse and high limit thermostat only had 2! Can you maybe do a video getting into all of these elements and why each has the amount of wires it has?! Thanks so much! (If u can’t do a video maybe u can do a written explanation) ?
Neat. I had a very similar motor go bad on a washing machine. The nylon sleeve that the centrifugal switch rides on became detached from the rotor and so the start windings would not disengage when the motor spun up.
It's nice to have a stash of motors so you can satisfy your urge to make something whenever the mood hits you. 🙂
I also collect motors, Matthias... But mostly DC motors. 😬
Either way, those are fantastic to build small shop machines!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Hope to see a project using this motor, I have the exact same motor,. This is very helpful, thanks for sharing.
you can get left hand thread. you might put a work arbor on the left hand thread, and ruin the threads. the work arbor will hold grinding wheels, etc, and there are tapered ones that screw into buffing wheels, so you can change from tripoli to like swest all purpose white as i used on deer antler stuff decades ago
Have you ever done a video on making a generator from a motor?
(maybe wind or water?)
That could be a cool project!
In Germany we often say: "Haben" geht vor "brauchen". Means: To have one comes first, to need one comes after that. :-)
I always say that it's better to look at it than to look for it 🙂
Made in USA, NICE. Must be a Whirlpool. They made them for Kenmore too, in the past, not now!
Seems to me that volt-free connection on the motor (two red wires) could be very handy - if you end up using this motor to make a tool, the red wires could be used to control a separate dust collector on a different circuit. Given the fact its designed to handle the power of an inductor - the switching mechanism can probably handle anything you want to throw at it. Another idea that occured to me is if you had some kind of multi-stage dust collection system (using multiple fans), you could daisy-chain them on a single switch with multiple power sources.
0:56 Motor must run for heater to run. 1:41 Tumbler must operate for motor to run for heater to run. Pretty good control sequence.
It must be deeply satisfying to know what you know and be competent to build and innovate.
I just got one before yesterday, it took me hours to get it removed from a broke dryer., tested and is working well but I am still not able to unscrew the fan which I like a lot because designed in the way it can serve as a micro turbine if cast fur a durable use.
My drier uses extra contacts on the centrifugal switch to run the cycle-end buzzer. If the motor is not energized but the centrifugal switch is engaged (indicating the motor is turning) the buzzer sounds. Saved them the cost of a 1-second timer relay. Actually that must have been my previous drier; the current one has not required service yet so I would not know how it is wired.
Great video. Love how you document the reverse engineering. Mahalo for sharing! : )
The two blue wires go to the long white long thermal fuse on the blower wheel. Can bypass for this purpose, but never in an actual dryer.
Thank you. This helped me repurpose an electric motor.
fascinating this motor series videos , have learned alot congrats Mathias
Great content , glad you showed up in my feed. Thanks
Isn't that square hole in the fan for putting a half in ratchet in to take it off?
Man, that’s really great content. So informative!!
My dryer had flat sides on the pulley side for a wrench and a 1/2inch ratchet drive fit perfect on the fan to remove the blower fan
This just makes me think about how much useable stuff is trashed everyday.
Infinite Ohms was my college band's name. Now that we are older, our yoga group has the same name.
4:43 It looks like the centre of the pulley may be a 1/2" square from a ratchet extension.
I was just about to say the same thing but figured somebody already has, yes that was what I used when I took my dryer apart.
Yup, exactly. ½" drive socket. Makes it easy.
1:48 Door open switch? Could be useful depending on what you are building. E-stop?
Got Electroboom vibes when you started the motor with open contacts strown around
A very open motor for sure. On a gas dryer with a leak you would go boom when the starting switch opened and made a spark.
I would love to see you try to make a drum sander. It's a tool I need desperately but can't afford right now and making one has to be cheaper
The hoarding mantra, "ooh! that's nice... I might be able to use it one day." Ask me how I know...
you should have Kept it together and made a mini dust collector
Cuz they look like they're weak but if you make a box for them they amplify their suction power and they can get pretty strong
You know I wonder if a motor like this with the blower in place would be good for a strip sander with integrated dust collection. Sure it’s not all too powerful but I can’t build a blower out of wood so this seems like a reasonable alternative
I collect motors, and Li Ion batteries, and power supplies of all kinds ... Lots of small DC motors, especially, and, lately, power tool motors, 12 - 18 VDC... Now, to find the time to use them!
I do the same thing, you never know how useful the right motor can be.
the fastener location on that style of motor was very perplexing for me, as there are no fasteners . whenever i save a motor i also look for a way to take it to bits so i can clean and replace bearings in need be. i got a motor just like that one from an old dryer and its centrifugal clutch was busted so i had to find a way in. so yea, there are no fasteners but a spelter socket type method of assembly.
I too had an intact take- off motor from a dryer and made a buffer- polisher machine, it works well but gets very hot in a fairly short period. I think the duty cycle rating of those types of motors are short "on" duration, longer "off".
dryers typically run continuously for an hour
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 Then the answer is obvious; I'm working it too hard. ☺
@@BeachsideHank _How_ hot? It's typical for motors to get hot during normal operation. For example, the motor in my desk fan typically operates at about 65°C on low.
The additional safety switch on the blue wire was/is probably the switch in the dryer door to tell it the door is closed.
Are you a shop teacher? If yes keep on and bless you sir
great... amazing knowledge, good ecology and motoros is also really quiet
For the left-handed thread on the blower side of the shaft you could also use a nut from a spool on a weedeater.
He's coming to your town! "The Motor Collector!"
"I just collect motors when I find them, so that I have one when I need one" - This is soooo me.
3:45 oh god that 'insulation' XD
Get some insulated spade connectors, or use shrink tubing on those, nicer estheticaly and safer.
It could be used as part of a dust collector for a new super pocket screw jig!
Did you try open Windows at different levels?
I managed to blow air from outside into our house by opening the door to our hot, not sealed attic. My assumption is, that the hot air wants to escape upwards, but cant due to air pressure. When opening the door and a window inside, the air from outside replaces the air that flows out, creating a strong air stream without a single watt of electrical power.
Love your videos. Have you ever looked at the motors for those coin operated kiddie rides? trying to learn about them now to make my own ride. Thats what landed me here. This video defintely helps me map out some of the raw materials. Thanks
Thank you sir from another collector, WASTE NOT WANT NOT.
So, if I don't waste it, I won't want it?
But I Do want it. So, I should waste it???
That way, I will Still want it????
I'm So Confused!! 😁✌🖖
That motor would perfect for a corded minibike the kids could use.
Love it! You could use it to blow out hot air in the shop outside. Where is the incoming air ? IDK
I collect motors too. I have 3 5-gallon buckets full of them in my attic. Most of them have so many wires they look like a box of Crayolas, so there they'll stay.
A word of advice, when connecting a motor and if you're not sure if the connection is right, use a heater in series with it. If the motor shorts, the heater will save you having to run to the breaker :) If it runs ok, you can remove the heater and plug in directly...
I cringed when he went straight to the kw meter😂
How do you mean? Could you please explain this? I'm trying to wire a very similar motor but similar ones in the past have blown my breakers. So i was thinking of wiring in a 120v like 2 by 5 inch circuit breaker i got at the auto parts store. Would that work the same?
@@axalblimes2799 imagine wiring a switch in series to turn the motor on/off.
Now, still in series, add a clothes iron or a space heater. What this does is allow the motor to run, but if there is a short, the iron will heat up. Basically, you'll know the instant you click the switch, within the first couple of seconds...
You don't need to keep the iron in series for long, if the motor is operational, you remove the iron and plug the motor directly.
@@axalblimes2799
The breaker will also save you from having to run down to the big breaker, but it has to be rated accordingly. A clothing iron or space heater doesn't care much.
Soon enough we'll probably find Matthias collecting the motor out of his neighbor's car, lol.
Tesla is worried.....
Today I'l show you how to build a 4 cylinder 120HP dustcollector for your average sized basement shop.
@@brucelee3388 Tesla motors need 3 phase power to work.
Save it for a rainy day 😄💕👍
Great video, good explanation
Here's a crazy idea. Make a couple rock tumblers for the kids.
... I was thinking that a pulley and belt to a few levers and you can shake spray paint cans. We all know how we hate to "shake for a full minute" before using them.
It's best to use a flat blade screwdriver to knock the blower off.
Hello Matt, I have the same motor, not the piece that goes on top, I want to use it as a fun and I do not have the white part that goes on top. Could you tell me how to wire it? I know the black and white may be what I need to wire for it to work, and the blue and red wires may be different speeds but I am not sure. Thanks.
The "nut" inside the blower fan is round and knurled. Short of welding/epoxying it, it's not at all useful. If you come across more of the motors, some have a longer shaft and some have the pully and fan threads reversed. i.e. the fan "nut" has normal threads and the pully has reverse. Just FYI. :)
Very helpful. I just acquired my first motor from my old garage door and haven't started tinkering yet. States 115v, 4.6 amps, 1,000 rpm. Think it's suitable for anything? I'd be interested in building a small bandsaw or small wood lathe.
Suitable for anything that doesn't run for more than 20 seconds at a time. thsoe garage door motors are not continuous duty.
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 - you should have let him find that out on his own! Rats! 🤔
Motors r good to keep when you build tools as a hobby
Can you tell me is the number 4 or five spot on the motor the hot wire? The other is neutral correct? And the green wire going to the bent piece of flat copper is the ground?
Thanks for the info works perfect good video
Those motors work very well unmodified just as an ventilation fan`. Just hook up a dryer hose and run it to the outside.
It would have really awful efficiency, though. A motor that big could easily run something the size of a condenser fan.
Would you be so kind to let us know what side of the start coiling (circuit ) gets bumped.
the red wires are used as a safetly interlock so the heater cant turn if the motor/fan is not turning.
weird that there isn't a capacitor for the starter winding, normally the capacitor is used to give the 90 degree phase shift
edit: never mind, it's a split phase induction motor
Well Matthias saving me from doing some research , I have these hoarded for an unknown purpose
is it strong enough to push a blade or router bit
At last, someone else who collect shit that might come in handy some say! 😂
I laughed when you plugged it in without holding onto it or clamping it down.
Whenever I have open 120Vac connections, I tape down the wires and think about what might yank on them before I turn on the power. He should have done that.
Sometimes a motor will roll over on the table when you turn it on without something holding it down
@@Malungeon18436571 Not just sometimes! Due to conservation of angular momentum, a sudden start of rotation inevitably produces a perpendicular torque. You see this all the time on BattleBots when robots with high-speed horizontal spinners compete. Every time they make a turn, the torque throws up one or the other of their wheels, making it look like they're dancing. They're not dancing. They're miserable. They're forced to fight day in and day out, getting their guts kicked in. And no robotic sex, either.
@@paulkolodner2445 I’m ok with that. I’m a hardliner on robot rights. Give them an inch and they’ll take a mile.
Can I use one of those to do an electric goKart ?
Would that motor be strong enough to run a rotor off of each side, and produce more air flow? Not sure how that would be incorporated into a dust collector or whatever, but it seems a waste to not take advantage of it.
One bigger rotor will do better than two small ones
Yep, I have this urge to collect motors too :-)
hoarders r us
@@marks47 LOL, yes :-)
yikes when you put that wood pry bar in the fan to remove it I cringed.....just last week I had to replace ours and it cost me $170. FYI that centre hub on the blower fits a 3/8 drive ratchet. for removal and reinstall.
great video, interesting. thanks
i was trying to make a pottery wheel from a dryer motor, you think thats possible?
Just need to gear it down appropriately. But pottey wheels are usually variable speed and reversible. Dryer motors are not.
What's the best and easiest way to damage the motor on these ?
with a sledge hammer
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221
Lol 😂 naaa I got warranty for appliances and my machine is 20 years old wanted a new one and wanted to kill the motor to get a new one
You are such aCool guy
At least one of those safety shutoffs was for the door open/shut.
Sort of confused. He says the starter winding is smaller, creating greater resistance, leading to a phase shift. But then when he measures it with the ohmeter (when centrifical switch isn't depressed) it says the starter winding has a resistance of 1.8 ohms in comparison 3.6 when it is running. Why does the resistance go UP when the starter winding is disconnected?
Not sure about the use of the phrase 'greater resistance' in the explanation - the starter winding is just wound differently to give the temporary start up phase shift (thinner wire but fewer turns could still give the same resistance). Answering your query: The starter and main windings appear to be both 3.6 ohms d.c. resistance, but are in parallel when both are connected - not in series. Two 3.6 ohm resistors in parallel gives 1.8 ohms. When the starter winding is disconnected, there is just one at 3.6 ohms.
I work on appliances for a living and those blower wheels are incredibly hard to get off at times. Very frustrating
This one looks like a simple square drive would have done the trick.
I’ve never had a issue w it’s the right tools. Socket driver in the blower wheel and and socket on the pulley at the other end. On ones with a speed reducing belt the blower shaft has a flat surface to get a crescent or ring spanner on to. And just remember to turn the right way since they are reverse thread
I noticed you have an HP multimeter. I didn't know they made those! Anything the "brand name" does that a no name multimeter off amazon cant?
probably a fluke rebranded. It's nice and precise, can measure AC down to milivolts, and also measures frequency
HP used to make very good measuring instruments. CuriousMarc has a lot of them.
Merci Matthias !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Im trying to accomplish the same thing as a dust collector motor, but for some reason the motor gets really hot after only a few seconds work. What the heck am I doing wrong.
wired incorrectly. Posibly using the starter winding as a run winding, but only a guess
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 ya I thought I followed it close. But it was pulled apart when I got it. I have half a harness, and everything else is missing. I'll keep trying.
Love what you do here, unfortunately I'm trial and error, I know very little about electrical.....very little.
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 I'm not sure if I can share a picture of what it is I'm working on, through hear, but I have tried 10 different ways, 2 ran the motor both times it heated up very fast, didn't allow it to get to hot though. Used a sensor to watch if the temp spiked or not.
Some people collect coins, some dolls, geniuses collect motors! ☺️
Serious question, what is the difference between DC resistance and AC resistance? Did I miss something somewhere?
yes. Where to begin -- I can't give you an electronics course in a youtube comment.
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 Okay :) True, you probably couldn't explain it very well in a RUclips comment. I trust you enough...I'll look it up and let you know what I come up with. 👍
Without getting technical and nerdy basically DC uses the entire conductor where AC uses the outer most of the conductor cause the resistance to be higher. Kind of like you had a smaller wire for the AC to travel on.
@@tom5256 That is skin effect and it's not what Matthias is talking about (at 60Hz skin effect is pretty much negligible). The thing with "AC resistance", or impedance as it's properly called, is that inductors (such as a motor's coil) behave as shorts for DC but due to complex reasons actually behave kind of like resistors for AC, in the sense that they limit the current that can travel through
@@gigigigiontis8 Thanks for the info...I'm still reading on it and trying to understand...it's kinda complex, my wife was trying to get me to do something while was reading about it and guess who won that one :)
1950s American cars still being used daily in CUBA