Good info my friend......much appreciated. Be sure to check continuity between the two red wires while manually activating the centrifugal switch.....while disconnected from power. The motor will run but if your heater switch is bad there will be no heat.
Hats off to you Sir! God bless you for your helping others. You just helped me in properly testing my dryer motor in similar fashion - $100 motor, now I know that I don't need a replacement at this time. I am actually searching as well for your video on drilling and lubricating it but somehow could not find it. Anyway, thanks so much!
I actually just got my old dryer motor out of that old run down dryer and got it wired up to run but had no clue that those other wires were for those other things! I figured it was wired some way to make it run off of 220 volts even though the name tag said it runs off of 120 volts. SO thanks for the details in this. I appreciate it cuz now I understand it completely....AND I now know a way to oil those bearings too!!! :)
Tom Brokaw aren't you supposed to be well to do from doing the nightly news on national TV? Then hows come you're here trying to fix a dang dryer? LMBO too funny!!! Just busting your chops dude. Have a great weekend.
Awesome. I've been trying to find out what 2 terminals to use to run the motor so I can use it a different application. THANKS. Love the quick tune when you where getting the extension cord and the beer chug at the end !!!! Have a great 2015 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
the motor mounts on each end are atop them wells you drill between the mounts and the armature being careful not to go too deep and hit the bearing you only want to access the cotton well and load it with oil then you want to work the motor free i use a vice and spin the motors. I have videos of that
Thanks so much for making this video... I have a whirlpool dryer motor that i took out of a dryer and i've been wanting to make a bench belt sander out of it, But couldn't figure out which wires to connect ... I've looked all over the internet and finally found your video.. My motor has a pulley bracket mounted on the side of it with a switch under it.. I'm supposing that is a belt switch... Will i need to bypass that switch in order to get the motor to run, or let the pulley bracket touch it and ingage the switch? I'll go try it tomorrow .. Thanks again
easy. drill a hole in the rotten cotten wells and fill them with zoom oil work the shafts loose by hand and run it a minute to loosen it up furthur. 50 50 chance of reviving
I am curious as to why you wired the 2 red wires together (heating element power runs through one side, through the centrifugal switch and out the other side) ? Thanks..
It's just for fun for show and tell. The 2 red wires tied together represent the 240 circuit. They are heavy red wires that carry the power through the system. when the motor is idle nothing goes through the red wires it only makes a complete circuit when the motor is running.
What were to happen if you wired directly to the main winding terminals? Would you need to wire a momentary switch between the main winding and start winding?
Dan Webster So the switch has to be fully energized to engage which in turn automatically works the starter winding circuit? That sounds too easy. I'm seeing videos of newer motors with jumpers for switches, etc (such as mine). That's where I was a bit confused by the red wires tied together but I saw your comment below.
The 2 red wires go to heater. If the motor don't run, the heater wont come on. Them fat thick red wires are only on when motor is running not wired to any live stuff in the motor. That's a safety feature. They dont short nothing because they basically are the same wire acting as a gate.
I got it solved. I've got a motor from a 2007 Frigidaire Gallery dryer. Looks like it is a common wiring scheme on Frigidaires. I assumed I had a belt switch terminal on this one but apparently not. I'll share the wiring for others (from schematics). White (M2) = Neutral Yellow (M1) = Neutral for dryer igniter (switched on when motor starts) Black (M5) = Hot (Run/Start) Tan (M4) = Neutral (Direct to centrifugal switch/motor) Gray (M6) - Hot output (switched on when motor starts) Green = Ground to chassis/ground cable wire The gray hot wire is giving me ideas. Power light maybe?
Before I made my fancy plug that's what I did. used my cheater cord. I used my watered down cheater cord to prevent arcing in case of shorted motors. All you do is use an old dryer or water heater element and connect it in series with one side the 120 v cheater/power cord. That way most of the energy is absorbed by the element but you still have the voltage to run the motor.
Thanks . Mommas dryer is shutting down premo. I need my motor checker but I done lent it out to my buddy Larry . LOL I dont need no stankin motor checker.
+pepsi p I gave the thang away so not sure of the numbers but the colors a white common blue and back start and/or run and the 2 reds 1 and 2 are for the heat circuit
+Dan Webster (Paw Paw) Thank You Sir. I got it already it's pin 3 and 5 to start the motor. great video I'm trying to make a pig rotisserie. Keep up the good work
Great video!
Good info my friend......much appreciated. Be sure to check continuity between the two red wires while manually activating the centrifugal switch.....while disconnected from power. The motor will run but if your heater switch is bad there will be no heat.
Right on Dan, your the man. 👍
Hats off to you Sir! God bless you for your helping others. You just helped me in properly testing my dryer motor in similar fashion - $100 motor, now I know that I don't need a replacement at this time. I am actually searching as well for your video on drilling and lubricating it but somehow could not find it. Anyway, thanks so much!
+Jay Em I have a nicer camera now I will try and find an old motor out in my stuff and do a video soon.
+Paw Paw -Well and good! Thanks again!
Thank you Brother Dan...needed to check a few motors spur of the moment and had forgotten how to. Ya got me back in bizniz. Thanks...
glad to help
I actually just got my old dryer motor out of that old run down dryer and got it wired up to run but had no clue that those other wires were for those other things! I figured it was wired some way to make it run off of 220 volts even though the name tag said it runs off of 120 volts. SO thanks for the details in this. I appreciate it cuz now I understand it completely....AND I now know a way to oil those bearings too!!! :)
Thank you for explaining this to me. I have been trying to get this thing to fire up for 3 days now. It works!!
cool
Thank you for posting this video. You are the first to go into this level of detail and you really helped us out! You are good. Really good.
Thanks glad to help -PawPaw
know the video is several years old, but thank you sir...You just saved me a headache
any time glad to help amigo
Tom Brokaw aren't you supposed to be well to do from doing the nightly news on national TV? Then hows come you're here trying to fix a dang dryer? LMBO too funny!!! Just busting your chops dude. Have a great weekend.
Terrific job...Useful video...Thanks so much!
You're welcome.
great video, please continue to share your knowledge
thanks buy old paw paw a beer on his home page is a button.
Love ya mean it....broke as shit 1.90 in my paypal.
Awesome. I've been trying to find out what 2 terminals to use to run the motor so I can use it a different application.
THANKS. Love the quick tune when you where getting the extension cord and the beer chug at the end !!!!
Have a great 2015 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks
larry the cable guys older brother lol...... cool hand luke ... great video , thanks man .. git er done !!!!
the motor mounts on each end are atop them wells you drill between the mounts and the armature being careful not to go too deep and hit the bearing you only want to access the cotton well and load it with oil then you want to work the motor free i use a vice and spin the motors. I have videos of that
Dan Webster -My motor spins but seems to heat up and squeal then stops. Thanks again for your videos!
Dan Webster - Not sure I've ever seen flame proof save oil. Is it at my local big box store?
ace hard ware has it for$3
www.ebay.com/itm/like/221422651356?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true
Can you provide a link in your description to the video about the drilling and oiling so I can find it?
Thanks so much for making this video... I have a whirlpool dryer motor that i took out of a dryer and i've been wanting to make a bench belt sander out of it, But couldn't figure out which wires to connect ... I've looked all over the internet and finally found your video.. My motor has a pulley bracket mounted on the side of it with a switch under it.. I'm supposing that is a belt switch... Will i need to bypass that switch in order to get the motor to run, or let the pulley bracket touch it and ingage the switch? I'll go try it tomorrow .. Thanks again
no leave the switch be just connect blue and white and it should be ok
you didn't show closer which wire you connected , that not good
blue and white
how to oil these sealed motors????????
easy. drill a hole in the rotten cotten wells and fill them with zoom oil work the shafts loose by hand and run it a minute to loosen it up furthur. 50 50 chance of reviving
you can do a 50 50 mix of zoom oil and rust buster on tough bearings
I am curious as to why you wired the 2 red wires together (heating element power runs through one side, through the centrifugal switch and out the other side) ? Thanks..
It's just for fun for show and tell. The 2 red wires tied together represent the 240 circuit. They are heavy red wires that carry the power through the system. when the motor is idle nothing goes through the red wires it only makes a complete circuit when the motor is running.
So when the motor aint a goin the heater element aint on
If the heater element is ever on while the motor aint running most likely the element is grounded to one side of the power source.
I have seen where a heating element wire broke and welded itself to the case causing a dead short and the dryer heats up without being turned on.
that do happen
What were to happen if you wired directly to the main winding terminals? Would you need to wire a momentary switch between the main winding and start winding?
The motor run wire is live but not in the circuit until the cent switch is fully extended then the start winding gets dropped out and run is engaged.
Dan Webster So the switch has to be fully energized to engage which in turn automatically works the starter winding circuit? That sounds too easy. I'm seeing videos of newer motors with jumpers for switches, etc (such as mine). That's where I was a bit confused by the red wires tied together but I saw your comment below.
The 2 red wires go to heater. If the motor don't run, the heater wont come on. Them fat thick red wires are only on when motor is running not wired to any live stuff in the motor. That's a safety feature. They dont short nothing because they basically are the same wire acting as a gate.
I got it solved. I've got a motor from a 2007 Frigidaire Gallery dryer. Looks like it is a common wiring scheme on Frigidaires. I assumed I had a belt switch terminal on this one but apparently not. I'll share the wiring for others (from schematics).
White (M2) = Neutral
Yellow (M1) = Neutral for dryer igniter (switched on when motor starts)
Black (M5) = Hot (Run/Start)
Tan (M4) = Neutral (Direct to centrifugal switch/motor)
Gray (M6) - Hot output (switched on when motor starts)
Green = Ground to chassis/ground cable wire
The gray hot wire is giving me ideas. Power light maybe?
Hope you can still help. Can you wire up the alligator clip directly to the donor plug? I dont have an extra harness to connect to the motor.
Before I made my fancy plug that's what I did. used my cheater cord. I used my watered down cheater cord to prevent arcing in case of shorted motors. All you do is use an old dryer or water heater element and connect it in series with one side the 120 v cheater/power cord. That way most of the energy is absorbed by the element but you still have the voltage to run the motor.
Great idea|
Thanks . Mommas dryer is shutting down premo. I need my motor checker but I done lent it out to my buddy Larry . LOL I dont need no stankin motor checker.
Curious on how you drill the holes and made the bearings not squeal ......I have a hum and squeal and then motor seizes up and will not turn.
You drill using 1/8th inch bit into the wells on each end and apply a flame proof save oil i use zoomspout it is safe for appliances
Action cam! Yaseenitheafoist! Thanks for the vid, it helped a lot!
glad to help. award winner paw paw
what pins are you using? it has numbers on the connector.
+pepsi p I gave the thang away so not sure of the numbers but the colors a white common blue and back start and/or run and the 2 reds 1 and 2 are for the heat circuit
+Dan Webster (Paw Paw) Thank You Sir. I got it already it's pin 3 and 5 to start the motor. great video I'm trying to make a pig rotisserie. Keep up the good work
+pepsi p Thanks I want to see the set up once you get her rigged
I am hoping to mount mine to a modified ATV stretched out so that I will be about 3" off of the ground while riding it.
Should you not check the start winding?
if you just want to see if the motor will run jump blue and white fer a sec to see if sh takes off
Cool man