Great job, I followed your instructions, and got unbelievable results in mixing thin set Rapid Set mortar mix with rapid set flow and set control and mortar color.I got a amazing consistency and flow that resulted in mortar looking like beautiful satin brick color surface! I would never know this would be possible. Many many thanks!
I had the same problem with the flow aid causing the cement not to mix, thick at the bottom and watery on top. Can’t wait to try it this way. Thanks for the tip!
I watch this video a number of times, and then had my wife watch it with me as well. :) We took notes and proceeded to follow your directions to a T. Our result was not the same at all. In hind site, our mix, before any of the "magic packets" was probably the same consistence as yours after you added the set and flow. You made 1 comment that it was not quite flowable but almost. Ours was definitely flowing! It was like thick water. :) Once we started, I felt that we needed to keep going. Because the mix was different, It took hours for it to firm up. It's the next day now. Hopefully everything will work out. We used the max amount of water recommended on the package as per your video. Perhaps we would have been better off with less water. Who knows now. I'm just saying this all as information, not criticism. Because we followed what you did precisely, I'm not sure why the results were different. Besides that, thanks for your great video. Simple, easy to follow.
@@Baagdad the set control slows the cure way down. Don't be worried about it being more watery. It will set with the same amazing strength. I waited 24 hours to demold. And did it carefully because the edges are still weak. Then I waited 7 days for sealer. Would love to see pictures of your project. You can email me at detroitdiychannel@gmail.com. Thanks for watching.
I demolded after about 1 week. The bottom ( was the top while pouring) is crumbly. Wondering if I will need to grind down the crumble so that it can have a solid base. Not exactly how I planned this was going to work out. Hope I don't have to repour. More product is about 3 hours away and across the border. I live in Canada. Not sure what went wrong.
Great videos Jim, really appreciate the the tips for making these countertops. I'm following your method and using Rapid Set mortar mix with 2 flow control bags and 2 set control bags and just shy of 4 quarts of water. I'm in Northern California and pouring outside in the shade with temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees F, low humidity. Other people may be interested to know that my pours take about 4 hours before the mortar "kicks off". For the first few hours it remains in a stiff putty state with no heat. You can wet it and the water will sit there on top. But, After about 4 hours or so, the mix starts to absorb water like crazy. You can spray it with a little garden sprayer but it pulls that water in after a minute or so. I've started using big swim towels to cover the form and saturating them with water and cover with plastic. It seems to me the set control delays the start of the curing process but once it starts, it proceeds as "normal" for this mortar without the set control. Anyway, thanks again for posting these great series of videos.
I am glad I could help, the whole reason I started this channel was to help give people the confidence to undertake their own projects. Comments like yours are amazing at supporting the fact that people can do what they want. Thanks for watching.
@@pixelatedmushroom Hello Pixelated, I used a concrete dye to give the countertop some color and then poured a clear epoxy over top to protect and seal. Turned out great. I used Faowood epoxy from Lowes, Home Depot also carries it just depends on the store if it's in stock or not. Best of luck!
Water first then half to three quarters of the rapid set while running the mixer. Then the set and flow while running the mixer. Then the remainder of the the rapid set while running the mixer.
Your videos are a really great resource for us as we prep a pour in place outdoor countertop. THANKS. What about this combination of mortar, flow and set control, for a pour in place? Is there enough to time to float and trowel to get a smooth topside finish?
That is a good question, if the temperature is low around 65 degrees and you have a few people helping 2 bags of set control will be enough. If the temperature is higher use more set control 4 bags and mix with ice cold water. Also make sure to have everything ready, mix in buckets, water pre measured, color pre measured if you are using any. This speeds thing up during the pour and will give more time before set.
@@detroitdiy BRILLIANT - we will do some tests with two / three / and four bags of set control. We will be doing a "fall" pour here in southern Ontario (near the same latitude as yourself) definitely cooler weather that will play in our favour. This is great advice. THANK-YOU!
I added perlite to the final pour mix over the wire mesh to greatly reduce the overall weight. The mesh compensated for any loss of support the perlite may have given it. Since I am using this countertop for metal foundry work, the perlite gives it extra heat refractory properties as well.
ruclips.net/video/AhKGgZl2LLA/видео.html This video I talk more about the color. Tru tone by Davis they have a nice color selection. Thanks for watching.
@@detroitdiy Thank you. I watched the video you linked to in your reply and those three pieces came out amazing. You do great work and offer up some excellent ideas.
Well if I did my math right I have 10.78 cubic feet . And comes out to be 22 bags . 2” thick . It’s for an outdoor kitchen with a back splash. Lol god I hope I did the math right . I’ll be trying to achieve a color close to black as possible.
The white I got from Amazon, Google white concrete pigment. It is actually titanium dioxide. The other colors are true tone. I found them local. Call your local cement company and ask where you can buy colorant. Thanks for watching.
I have a counter top piece that is 95 x 42. I've seen where they just lay 3/8 in rods throughout the piece after the first pour. What do you think about this? Also I've seen that if it's 4 ft or less you don't need rebar with this kind of mortar mix.
I think 3/8 inch rod is fine, however wire mesh is also fine. The motar mix is incredibly strong. And no need for rebar in short runs. The only reason i used anything was because of picking it up and putting it in place. Thats alot of work to get a stress crack from flexing while moving it. Thanks for watching.
@@detroitdiy Yes my others are 48 x 42 but thought i would just lay loose pieces along the 95 x 42 piece cause it will have to be carried a short distance. Love your videos. never done this before so super helpful. thx
@@ejtolle774 I don’t know if you’ve done your concrete countertop or not yet but I watched a video on reinforcing concrete and it’s really important to put reinforcement along the length of the countertop. If you’re carrying it from end to end and there’s any stress in the middle it will crack. They recommend using what’s called ladder mesh. It’s about 8 foot long and probably about 6 to 8 inches wide and looks like a ladder. It actually looks flimsy but the strength is in the fact that it stretches the length of the concrete. It’s pretty inexpensive at Home Depot.
@@detroitdiy Have you ever used Sakrete 5000? Or Sakrete with Countertop Magic? They are a lot less expensive and I was wondering what your thoughts were on those for a countertop. I’m obviously skeptical on a product it’s so much cheaper but it would really be nice to save that much money. My island is about 45 ft.² and my pour is going to be about a 1 25” thick with a nice thick apron.
I have not used that product, the countertop magic is an additive that will strengthen the cement mix as well as make it pourable or more liquid. It also allows you to go as thin as 1 inch. However i can say this i have used quikrete countertop mix and was not thrilled with the results. DIY concrete countertops are inexpensive in comparison to any other countertop no matter what mix you use. So i wouldn't hesitate to get the best mix you can.
have you ever mixed more then one bag at a time in a small mixer for a larger countertop? I have a 7x3 island that will take about 4-5 bags of Mortar mix. I'm hoping that using a mixer will cut my mixing time and give me a better chance of matching colour and consistency. Also, is it helpful to use a magnesium float with mortar mix or just the hard trowel for the best finish?? thank you for these videos! They have been very helpful
I have not mixed large quantities at once, i see no reason why you couldn't. However i would use 2 bags of set control and 2 bags of flow control per bag of motar mix. Also mix with cold water to get the maximum work time. That would giveyou about 30 minutes. The magnesium float will give you the best finish but i would have both on hand. If i can help you in any other way please feel free to reach out. Thanks for watching.
Mostly price, either product will work great. Cement all has a better p.s.i at 9000 I believe and motar mix at 6500 p.s.i the motar mix has more than enough strength so just boiled down to cost.
We put too much water (5 qts) in our mix and I just realized it and my counters are curing. Does hot weather offset the extra water?Does it help that I used fiberglass mesh? Are my countertops doomed?
Weather does not offset the extra water. To much Water reduces the compressive strength. Does not mean they are doomed. Just not as strong. If they don't crack you will be fine.
Jim: What are your thoughts on mixing this in a barrel-type concrete mixer -vs- with a drill and paddle? Thanks for the videos - I had purchased the countertop mix, found my test piece I’d to work with (never had ‘Crete act like that stuff, so took I back and bought this, even though by the time you add in the flow and set, it’s about 2x the cost of the other pre-mix)
Ahhh you decided to read the directions on the package. Ha ha....no but really if you add set mixture directly to water it needs to be mixed first. Some people keep pre mixed water on hand.
Creative but I don't think it's necessary to rig up that framework just to add your wire mesh. Once the first pour is set enough, it should hold that very light weight wire mesh without you having to worry about it sinking to the bottom (or the top of the countertop). But nice instructional vid nonetheless.
1 bag of motar mix will do 495 SQ in @ one and a half inches thick. Not cubic inches. I have a video titled how much motar mix do I need. What are you total lengths and widths?
This is the formula I used . Example: 60”x 25”x2”=3000 -3000/1728=1.73 cubic feet . A 55 lbs bag 0.5 cubic feet . So I did , I hope I did the math right
Great job, I followed your instructions, and got unbelievable results in mixing thin set Rapid Set mortar mix with rapid set flow and set control and mortar color.I got a amazing consistency and flow that resulted in mortar looking like beautiful satin brick color surface! I would never know this would be possible. Many many thanks!
@@JelenaTodorovicClemente I am glad I could help.
Great job man getting ready to try tackle in one myself countertops look amazing
I had the same problem with the flow aid causing the cement not to mix, thick at the bottom and watery on top. Can’t wait to try it this way. Thanks for the tip!
I watch this video a number of times, and then had my wife watch it with me as well. :) We took notes and proceeded to follow your directions to a T. Our result was not the same at all. In hind site, our mix, before any of the "magic packets" was probably the same consistence as yours after you added the set and flow. You made 1 comment that it was not quite flowable but almost. Ours was definitely flowing! It was like thick water. :) Once we started, I felt that we needed to keep going. Because the mix was different, It took hours for it to firm up. It's the next day now. Hopefully everything will work out. We used the max amount of water recommended on the package as per your video. Perhaps we would have been better off with less water. Who knows now. I'm just saying this all as information, not criticism. Because we followed what you did precisely, I'm not sure why the results were different. Besides that, thanks for your great video. Simple, easy to follow.
@@Baagdad the set control slows the cure way down. Don't be worried about it being more watery. It will set with the same amazing strength. I waited 24 hours to demold. And did it carefully because the edges are still weak. Then I waited 7 days for sealer. Would love to see pictures of your project. You can email me at detroitdiychannel@gmail.com. Thanks for watching.
I demolded after about 1 week. The bottom ( was the top while pouring) is crumbly. Wondering if I will need to grind down the crumble so that it can have a solid base. Not exactly how I planned this was going to work out. Hope I don't have to repour. More product is about 3 hours away and across the border. I live in Canada. Not sure what went wrong.
Great videos Jim, really appreciate the the tips for making these countertops. I'm following your method and using Rapid Set mortar mix with 2 flow control bags and 2 set control bags and just shy of 4 quarts of water. I'm in Northern California and pouring outside in the shade with temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees F, low humidity. Other people may be interested to know that my pours take about 4 hours before the mortar "kicks off". For the first few hours it remains in a stiff putty state with no heat. You can wet it and the water will sit there on top. But, After about 4 hours or so, the mix starts to absorb water like crazy. You can spray it with a little garden sprayer but it pulls that water in after a minute or so. I've started using big swim towels to cover the form and saturating them with water and cover with plastic.
It seems to me the set control delays the start of the curing process but once it starts, it proceeds as "normal" for this mortar without the set control. Anyway, thanks again for posting these great series of videos.
I am glad I could help, the whole reason I started this channel was to help give people the confidence to undertake their own projects. Comments like yours are amazing at supporting the fact that people can do what they want. Thanks for watching.
Hi there I'm in Norcal too, just curious how it turned out for you, and what did you seal the mortax mix countertop with?
@@pixelatedmushroom Hello Pixelated, I used a concrete dye to give the countertop some color and then poured a clear epoxy over top to protect and seal. Turned out great. I used Faowood epoxy from Lowes, Home Depot also carries it just depends on the store if it's in stock or not. Best of luck!
Water first then half to three quarters of the rapid set while running the mixer. Then the set and flow while running the mixer. Then the remainder of the the rapid set while running the mixer.
Your videos are a really great resource for us as we prep a pour in place outdoor countertop. THANKS. What about this combination of mortar, flow and set control, for a pour in place? Is there enough to time to float and trowel to get a smooth topside finish?
That is a good question, if the temperature is low around 65 degrees and you have a few people helping 2 bags of set control will be enough. If the temperature is higher use more set control 4 bags and mix with ice cold water. Also make sure to have everything ready, mix in buckets, water pre measured, color pre measured if you are using any. This speeds thing up during the pour and will give more time before set.
@@detroitdiy BRILLIANT - we will do some tests with two / three / and four bags of set control. We will be doing a "fall" pour here in southern Ontario (near the same latitude as yourself) definitely cooler weather that will play in our favour. This is great advice. THANK-YOU!
How do you do your vibrating? Thanks mate 😊👍
From the start of the pour until the form is about half full. Once full, I tap the edges with a hammer and vibrate at the same time .
I added perlite to the final pour mix over the wire mesh to greatly reduce the overall weight. The mesh compensated for any loss of support the perlite may have given it. Since I am using this countertop for metal foundry work, the perlite gives it extra heat refractory properties as well.
That sounds Ike a great weight saving idea. Thanks for watching.
Interesting idea ... any advice on proportion of perlite?
Great video. What brand of concrete color did you use?
ruclips.net/video/AhKGgZl2LLA/видео.html
This video I talk more about the color. Tru tone by Davis they have a nice color selection. Thanks for watching.
@@detroitdiy Thank you. I watched the video you linked to in your reply and those three pieces came out amazing. You do great work and offer up some excellent ideas.
Would the slower setting mortar type m work just as nice for cast in place?
I am not sure, I don't know what thickness is required to have substantial strength. Also I do not know the comprehensive strength of that material.
How many bags did you use on those counter tops ? Thanks
I used 4 lbs of motar mix for 32 square inches@ one and one half inches thick. One of my pours was 5 bags and on was 3.
Well if I did my math right I have 10.78 cubic feet . And comes out to be 22 bags . 2” thick . It’s for an outdoor kitchen with a back splash. Lol god I hope I did the math right . I’ll be trying to achieve a color close to black as possible.
@@bobhe1584 Did you ever get this done? I'm going to be doing mine this summer.
@@EZCyclone yes I did
@@bobhe1584 mind sharing some pics? Thoughts etc. Feel free to email. Ezcyclone@gmail.com
Jim , what color pigment brand did you use I’m doing our outdoor bar I cannot find any in our area ,any info will help
The white I got from Amazon, Google white concrete pigment. It is actually titanium dioxide. The other colors are true tone. I found them local. Call your local cement company and ask where you can buy colorant. Thanks for watching.
I have a counter top piece that is 95 x 42. I've seen where they just lay 3/8 in rods throughout the piece after the first pour. What do you think about this? Also I've seen that if it's 4 ft or less you don't need rebar with this kind of mortar mix.
I think 3/8 inch rod is fine, however wire mesh is also fine. The motar mix is incredibly strong. And no need for rebar in short runs. The only reason i used anything was because of picking it up and putting it in place. Thats alot of work to get a stress crack from flexing while moving it. Thanks for watching.
@@detroitdiy Yes my others are 48 x 42 but thought i would just lay loose pieces along the 95 x 42 piece cause it will have to be carried a short distance. Love your videos. never done this before so super helpful. thx
@@ejtolle774 I don’t know if you’ve done your concrete countertop or not yet but I watched a video on reinforcing concrete and it’s really important to put reinforcement along the length of the countertop. If you’re carrying it from end to end and there’s any stress in the middle it will crack. They recommend using what’s called ladder mesh. It’s about 8 foot long and probably about 6 to 8 inches wide and looks like a ladder. It actually looks flimsy but the strength is in the fact that it stretches the length of the concrete. It’s pretty inexpensive at Home Depot.
Mortar mix or cement all ?
Cement all is more money than motar mix, they will both work fine. Cement all is more white in color and motar mix is a tan color.
@@detroitdiy Have you ever used Sakrete 5000? Or Sakrete with Countertop Magic? They are a lot less expensive and I was wondering what your thoughts were on those for a countertop. I’m obviously skeptical on a product it’s so much cheaper but it would really be nice to save that much money. My island is about 45 ft.² and my pour is going to be about a 1 25” thick with a nice thick apron.
I have not used that product, the countertop magic is an additive that will strengthen the cement mix as well as make it pourable or more liquid. It also allows you to go as thin as 1 inch. However i can say this i have used quikrete countertop mix and was not thrilled with the results. DIY concrete countertops are inexpensive in comparison to any other countertop no matter what mix you use. So i wouldn't hesitate to get the best mix you can.
have you ever mixed more then one bag at a time in a small mixer for a larger countertop? I have a 7x3 island that will take about 4-5 bags of Mortar mix. I'm hoping that using a mixer will cut my mixing time and give me a better chance of matching colour and consistency.
Also, is it helpful to use a magnesium float with mortar mix or just the hard trowel for the best finish??
thank you for these videos! They have been very helpful
I have not mixed large quantities at once, i see no reason why you couldn't. However i would use 2 bags of set control and 2 bags of flow control per bag of motar mix. Also mix with cold water to get the maximum work time. That would giveyou about 30 minutes. The magnesium float will give you the best finish but i would have both on hand. If i can help you in any other way please feel free to reach out. Thanks for watching.
What color do you use?
Jim is there a way I can send you a picture of what I am doing and dimensions of my counter top?
My email is detroitdiychannel@gmail.com. sure I would be glad to have a look.
Why do you choose to use Rapid Set Mortar Mix versus Rapid Set Cement All, for counter tops?
Mostly price, either product will work great. Cement all has a better p.s.i at 9000 I believe and motar mix at 6500 p.s.i the motar mix has more than enough strength so just boiled down to cost.
@@detroitdiy I see, Morter Mix is $5 cheaper
@@detroitdiy can you blend the two?
No reason you can't blend the two. They a basically the same except for the aggregate.
We put too much water (5 qts) in our mix and I just realized it and my counters are curing. Does hot weather offset the extra water?Does it help that I used fiberglass mesh? Are my countertops doomed?
Weather does not offset the extra water. To much Water reduces the compressive strength. Does not mean they are doomed. Just not as strong. If they don't crack you will be fine.
No "slaking" time?
Jim: What are your thoughts on mixing this in a barrel-type concrete mixer -vs- with a drill and paddle? Thanks for the videos - I had purchased the countertop mix, found my test piece I’d to work with (never had ‘Crete act like that stuff, so took I back and bought this, even though by the time you add in the flow and set, it’s about 2x the cost of the other pre-mix)
Yes a barrel mixer would be fine. Just need a fluid way to get it in the form and keep things moving.
Ahhh you decided to read the directions on the package. Ha ha....no but really if you add set mixture directly to water it needs to be mixed first. Some people keep pre mixed water on hand.
Creative but I don't think it's necessary to rig up that framework just to add your wire mesh. Once the first pour is set enough, it should hold that very light weight wire mesh without you having to worry about it sinking to the bottom (or the top of the countertop). But nice instructional vid nonetheless.
Now is this just one 55 pound bag ?
The video you are referring to we used 5 bags.
1 bag of motar mix will do 495 SQ in @ one and a half inches thick. Not cubic inches. I have a video titled how much motar mix do I need. What are you total lengths and widths?
This is the formula I used .
Example: 60”x 25”x2”=3000 -3000/1728=1.73 cubic feet . A 55 lbs bag 0.5 cubic feet . So I did , I hope I did the math right
Painful.