Dang Jehu, how far we've come from tacking 18650 cells together to now having LifePO4 packs and able to create a custom board for easy assembly. That 50% savings compared to what's out there commercially is UNREAL! 👍
Great design. I like it. Clean. To keep the sytem repairable, and able to pull the system apart what about leaving nyloc nuts on top rather than cut them flush. Then use clear nail varnish to seal
Bought the 16 cells.. also did the DIYAudio 10% off coupon.. so $550 shipped to door. Works out to $34 a cell. Not including PCB (out of stock as of now) and box.. but excited to build my first DIY battery system that with my Ecoflow River 2 should power my computer/monitor all day every day.. and given that where I live it runs about $75 a month give or take $10 to $20 depending on how long each day. Seems to average around 400 watts per hour to run my setup. Thus.. the way I see it.. is if I charge my battery system on off peak at .25kwh, I'll cut my cost by a bit over 1/2 per month to operate my system.. so ideally if I am saving about $40 a month, this system pays for itself in a little over a year. Worth it I thiink.
You said its for outside. Now you have the batteries in contact with the top which could be in the direct sun. Leave a section of the rod and add a "tropical roof" on top of the box to give the box topside a bit of shade and keep rain away.
When you include shipping it is 0.16 a KWh. When you include the bracket, compression plate, and BMS it is closer to 0.25 a KWh. That puts it close to the price of simply buying a server rack battery.
Tip: i would insulate the threaded rods with a clear hose. So you avoid shorts in case the threads bite thru the cell insulation. The cell housing carries one pole!
They do make blind (non through hole) rivet nuts like you show that have a larger flange with integrated seal which would be better for sealing up the box.
Great video! Where would I need to start to use something like this, in my house with its stock electrical system, as a time-shifting system to use mostly off-peak power?
Safety factor for the cells. This video treats a 48V system without any safety protocols of any kind. Since this is for beginners, that should be the first and foremost concern, as 48V, which is really really 51.2V+, can stop your heart (reason being 50V+ is high enough to overcome the resistance your skin provides - very little actual current is needed to stop your heart, once it's able to get into your body). Yet at 0:26 he's touching and brushing against the battery blindly. Not a single mention of safety concerns, 9:18 is another instance of pure carelessness.
@@BatSolar What exactly do you mean by stopping my heart? I thought with DC you don't care as it's linear, but if you get yourself in the middle of an AC line, then it will contract your muscles really fast which can be very bad
@@DanSTttt you keep changing your name, you were "Uep Pep" when you commented, now "DanSTttt." I'll reply for the benefit of others reading. Both AC and DC can stop your heart and kill you. To do so, current needs to complete a circuit thru you where it passes thru your heart. Very little is needed, measured in milliamps. However, for DC, human skin in good shape (i.e. no cuts, not wet) provides resistance to about ~50V. While this is higher than "48V," "48V" batteries fully charged are actually 51.2V-53.6V or more, which is high enough to pass thru the skin. Now, if you somehow touch both positive and negative with, say, your left arm by carelessly brushing the exposed terminals (possibly with some sweat too), the current will not go thru your heart, it will complete the circuit thru your arm and give you a burn (potentially bad/very bad, but not life threatening outside of what becomes of your arm). The problem is when you use both hands, if you make the mistake of touching positive with one hand/arm and negative with the other hand/arm, it may prove to be a fatal mistake. With AC the danger is usually greater because one hand can be enough for the current to complete the circuit to ground, having the opportunity to go thru your heart. Low voltage DC won't normally go to ground thru your body. Jehu is not risking this in this video, however, with safety, you want to develop good habits as they may save your life (one that I learned: work with one hand behind your back; this should be, of course, in addition to gloves). Jehu knows what he's doing but is doing his fanbase, which is arguably comprised of many beginners that here to learn, a disservice by not practicing and showcasing sound safety habits.
Change suggestion -If your threaded rod uses rivnuts, put them in the top angle plate and permanently afix that upper angle plate to the backer plate before installing batteries, then drill the bottom to access the floating compression nuts - bottom side holes are easier to protect from liquid water (an automotive body hole gromet/seal is perfect!!) Another one - you have that whole door you're not using, use your VHB and stick your BMS to the door.
I would use a larger box so you could use the completed battery that you show on the right. You do not want threaded rods going out the top of a rain proof box. because even if you use sealant eventually it will leak. Also a larger box will provide more room. Also you can get good deals on used Nema 12 or Nema 3R boxes on on the used market way cheaper than new.
I would prefer the compression reverse from your doing now where the box itself carries the weight of the battery instead of only hanging on the screws.
@@jehugarcia that makes a lot of sense there didn't think about that great point. Though what is the point in putting the all tread outside the box, since the top and bottom plates have screw in spots to keep the pack where you wanted it inside of the box?
@jehugarcia, I am using the same materials as in your video, which I purchased from Jag35, and the enclosure from Vevor. I will mount the enclosure on a plywood backer mounted to a heavy-duty hand truck for use in my garage. Above the battery enclosure, I'm using an EG4 48V-3000EHV off-grid inverter. QUESTION: If I construct the battery pack in the enclosure, as show in the video, can I then rotate the enclosure 180 degrees and mount it to the backer board - so the enclosure opening POINTS UP? Then the two wires can easily connect a short distance to the EG4 (which has its input connections pointing down at the bottom edge).
Fantastic design on the whole system here. PCBs are well made! You can parallel these as well correct? eg. If I started with one of these, I could add more later as long as that particular pack has its own BMS and the voltages are relatively well matched? Thanks for all of the great content and sharing your ideas with us!
@jehugarcia You are providing a very valuable service, than you for your time. Also, is the compression pack carbon, stainlesss or aluminum? This is the only part I’d probably try to make myself…maybe two pieces per side of flat stainless with thicker allthread. I’m also going to be using in an ATV so probably laying then waterproofing box flat…you see any problems with that? Do you offer local pickup?
Great video. How have you not sold completed battery kits like this preassembled shipped to customers doors already? We need more of this to compete with companies like SOK, EG4, Orient power, jakiper, powmr, sungoldpower and the likes.
This battery is 48VDC at 74AH gives you 3.55 KWhr (not 4 as stated in the video). If you compare it to what is readily available, the costs savings are marginal. If you add up the costs of the batteries, compression plate and busbar you're at $702 not even adding the cost of the batgo meters, wiring, taxes and shipping. I compared this to the the Renogy 48VDC 50Ah smart LiPO battery. This battery comes with built-in bluetooth app monitoring, internal heating control, IP55 rating...and frankly it is ready to go with just with two connections to make. It's priced at $819. Sometimes on sale for $750. Oh, lets not forget it has a warranty. I'm not knocking this video. It's very cool. Obviously 48v/74ah is a larger capacity. I'm just making the point that sometimes these margins actually are thin between off the shelf and DIY.
Yes, you can save money on a DIY battery like this, but you lose valuable space by going with lesser size ampere hour batteries. I like the price, but need ~300ahs. That would be 4 boxes verses 3 or even just getting one 300ah box. I do like the idea you have presented. Thanks for the video.
Isn't the difference only like 6 cents per Wh? $479 / 1780 watts is like $0.26/Wh. And that doesn't include a BMS or buss bars. If the other one is $1649 for 5120 Wh, that's $0.32/Wh. Seems like a lot of work to maybe not even save anything. EG4 PowerPro and Lifepower are $0.28/Wh.
Interesting math, why do you round down for diy but round up for eg4? Same nominal pack voltage of 52.8v x 74Ah = 3907Wh/ $479= .122/wh 12cents is a lot less that 32cents, but I’m using Mexican math so maybe that’s why.
@@jehugarcia I was just going by what your website says "NEW HIGH DISCHARGE 600A LIFEPO4 1780W PRISMATIC CELLS" for $479. $479 divided by 1780 is 26.9 cents per watt hour.
Or you could go with the EG4 3000 watt inverter/solar charge controller/ac charger all in one for $674...If 3000 watts are enough, that unit can handle 5000 watts of solar...
I'm not following why I would use that giant circuit board instead of just bus bars..And I would use a JK BMS with an active cell balancer (2 amp), because they are used cells(maybe) that will certainly be out of balance when charging and loads are applied...And don't forget a fuse, and a circuit breaker for a disconnect...And those orient power cells are the same cells that Jakiper, EG4, and other server rack batteries use, they have 5, 7, and 10 year warranties depending on which batteries you buy..But, I prefer the DYI method..
So if I order that 16 pack of cells from JAG 35 will you deliver it to Victoria, Australia? Even if I have to pay a little extra for shipping as long as it's not an astronomical amount. I love what you do keep it up. 😊 I would really love to buy 16 of those cells to use with my 24V 2.5Kw inverter and my pair of Jinko 315W 40V panels.
I really don't know a lot about such systems, so this may be a stupid question but - what do you use for potential BMCs? I did see someone here mention "JK BMC", and when I searched, it seems there are several options. So... what do you use here and why?
Mr Garcia. I like that EcoFlo 5kwh power kit for my camper van But I can’t afford it. Can you suggest an alternative system of yours that will do same or better then that eco Flo ?
If you can design this 48v kit based the eve prismatic cells (mainly 300ah+) then I'm excited 😊,I'm doing an off grid cabin build next year (land purchased already ) I want to run a 48v 304ah bank like this .....
I would feel safer to insert the rod from the bottom. Silicone gets old under weather and uv light. So at least drill water holes in the bottom or better insert the rods from the bottom. To get room you could put timber or something on the bottom below the lower compression plate. So everything is inside.
Also, would the compression kit be needed if the utility box provides additional compression? (I’m planning on laying the box flat so it won’t have to work against gravity)
What do I need to automatically charge my batteries during the day from the grid and then automatically use those batteries during the peak hours? Certainly we can build this and avoid those peak rates. For me, this would payoff quicker than Solar.
That enclosure is no longer waterproof after you made four holes on the top. You need to use some kind of sealant on and preferrably under the washers and nuts and redo it every time you have to rotate the threaded rods or nuts. Water *will* seep under the washers and down into the box if you leave it like this in the rain.
And labor to build it… it’s takes time and effort to do it. And at the point it would add to the cost, and would make more sense to buy a server rack battery new
Yea they are pricey. I live off grid and they work great. Max charge is 56volts recommended. I’m going to setup my daughters she shed off grid and was thinking about building the ones you have .
@@redredred1Exactly. There are inverters that take 48V DC in. Their input range usually is wide enough to handle 57.6V which is what these batteries will have for a short while when topped up to 100%.
Listen up, folks! I've been living completely off the grid for four years while studying electronics engineering and being part of the electrical union. You might hear that you're getting 74Ah at 48 volts and think, "Wow, this battery is only $0.12 per watt!" But let me tell you, that's a misleading way to gauge your power needs in a genuine off-grid scenario. The real metric you should be considering is cost per amp, not cost per watt, especially when you take into account the battery voltage. Think about it-just to power a laptop that requires 15 watts, I use a 150-watt power adapter. That equates to $22.50 for merely one hour to keep that laptop running. Trust me, that's not a bargain. But hey, go ahead and find out for yourself if you're not convinced.
Those battery cables... *cringe* :) Like these PCBs, very clean, nice work. Would be interesting to see something in 100/280/304 Ah (Like EVE cells) for Solar storage.
@@jehugarciaHm, attached a pic showing the concern but maybe you or RUclips didn't want the link...anyhow, the bare wire is showing pulled out of the shrink wrap on both positive and negative.
ALL THREAD(HexHead)BOLT with a weather washer from the top Down would works so much better and have 4 Nut-plates on your bottom plate to compress your batteries.
Exactly. I would also be wary of the mechanical sturdiness of the sheet metal at the top. Suspending 35 kilos of batteries from a sheet of 1.5mm carbon steel even if supported on four sides by bent material is still a bit too flimsy in my opinion. I would have added a bigger supporting plate on the top inside or outside the cabinet to spread the load or at least use a couple long pieces of 50mm wide steel flats to bridge two holes, stiffen the sheet and support the load under the washers and nuts. These cabinets might be rated for 45 kilos but that weight is meant to be suspended from the rear wall, not the side walls of the enclosure!
This is not best practice for prismatic cells. The orientation is incorrect, In this orientation some of the internal plates are starved of electrolyte. They should always be upright or thin side down so the electrolyte makes contact with all plates.
I don't think so. Jehu did a full video on that Orient Power unit here: ruclips.net/video/TPPukLjUc_0/видео.htmlsi=4j43zPm8MiQAQEGA Here he breaks down the battery + the matching inverter: ruclips.net/video/50nUMvbB5so/видео.htmlsi=27dqpszgmD0H4wDT
You can’t feel 48v. I think you start feeling it somewhere around 60v when you have dry hands, if you are sweaty then that number goes down to around 40v you start feeling thingly.
Dang Jehu, how far we've come from tacking 18650 cells together to now having LifePO4 packs and able to create a custom board for easy assembly. That 50% savings compared to what's out there commercially is UNREAL! 👍
I was thinking the same thing
It's being awhile ago, 18650 power wall days 😂😂😂
Great design. I like it. Clean.
To keep the sytem repairable, and able to pull the system apart what about leaving nyloc nuts on top rather than cut them flush. Then use clear nail varnish to seal
Bought the 16 cells.. also did the DIYAudio 10% off coupon.. so $550 shipped to door. Works out to $34 a cell. Not including PCB (out of stock as of now) and box.. but excited to build my first DIY battery system that with my Ecoflow River 2 should power my computer/monitor all day every day.. and given that where I live it runs about $75 a month give or take $10 to $20 depending on how long each day. Seems to average around 400 watts per hour to run my setup. Thus.. the way I see it.. is if I charge my battery system on off peak at .25kwh, I'll cut my cost by a bit over 1/2 per month to operate my system.. so ideally if I am saving about $40 a month, this system pays for itself in a little over a year. Worth it I thiink.
I bought the 16 cells for a 12v system, I can't wait to start with this projects
You said its for outside. Now you have the batteries in contact with the top which could be in the direct sun. Leave a section of the rod and add a "tropical roof" on top of the box to give the box topside a bit of shade and keep rain away.
Wow loving how cheap batteries are getting i just might have to do this diy style 😁
Great video! Probably the best dyi powerwall on RUclips.
When you include shipping it is 0.16 a KWh. When you include the bracket, compression plate, and BMS it is closer to 0.25 a KWh. That puts it close to the price of simply buying a server rack battery.
Why??? over-engineering is the reason why these videos exist.
I wish I had found your website and these video’s before I built mine. Good job!
Tip: i would insulate the threaded rods with a clear hose. So you avoid shorts in case the threads bite thru the cell insulation. The cell housing carries one pole!
They do make blind (non through hole) rivet nuts like you show that have a larger flange with integrated seal which would be better for sealing up the box.
Great video! Where would I need to start to use something like this, in my house with its stock electrical system, as a time-shifting system to use mostly off-peak power?
LiFePo4 really is the rockstar battery technology now IMO. The cycles, safety factor, and now the price. They're so cool!
Safety factor for the cells. This video treats a 48V system without any safety protocols of any kind. Since this is for beginners, that should be the first and foremost concern, as 48V, which is really really 51.2V+, can stop your heart (reason being 50V+ is high enough to overcome the resistance your skin provides - very little actual current is needed to stop your heart, once it's able to get into your body). Yet at 0:26 he's touching and brushing against the battery blindly. Not a single mention of safety concerns, 9:18 is another instance of pure carelessness.
@@BatSolar What exactly do you mean by stopping my heart? I thought with DC you don't care as it's linear, but if you get yourself in the middle of an AC line, then it will contract your muscles really fast which can be very bad
@@DanSTttt you keep changing your name, you were "Uep Pep" when you commented, now "DanSTttt." I'll reply for the benefit of others reading.
Both AC and DC can stop your heart and kill you. To do so, current needs to complete a circuit thru you where it passes thru your heart. Very little is needed, measured in milliamps. However, for DC, human skin in good shape (i.e. no cuts, not wet) provides resistance to about ~50V. While this is higher than "48V," "48V" batteries fully charged are actually 51.2V-53.6V or more, which is high enough to pass thru the skin. Now, if you somehow touch both positive and negative with, say, your left arm by carelessly brushing the exposed terminals (possibly with some sweat too), the current will not go thru your heart, it will complete the circuit thru your arm and give you a burn (potentially bad/very bad, but not life threatening outside of what becomes of your arm). The problem is when you use both hands, if you make the mistake of touching positive with one hand/arm and negative with the other hand/arm, it may prove to be a fatal mistake. With AC the danger is usually greater because one hand can be enough for the current to complete the circuit to ground, having the opportunity to go thru your heart. Low voltage DC won't normally go to ground thru your body.
Jehu is not risking this in this video, however, with safety, you want to develop good habits as they may save your life (one that I learned: work with one hand behind your back; this should be, of course, in addition to gloves). Jehu knows what he's doing but is doing his fanbase, which is arguably comprised of many beginners that here to learn, a disservice by not practicing and showcasing sound safety habits.
Change suggestion -If your threaded rod uses rivnuts, put them in the top angle plate and permanently afix that upper angle plate to the backer plate before installing batteries, then drill the bottom to access the floating compression nuts - bottom side holes are easier to protect from liquid water (an automotive body hole gromet/seal is perfect!!)
Another one - you have that whole door you're not using, use your VHB and stick your BMS to the door.
I know you live in CA but for those of us that hit freezing temps outside, you should install a heater (pad) inside!
Why? I don’t live in freezing weather. What you meant to say is, I will install a heating pad.
@@jehugarciacan't charge lifo4 below freezing
Or install it indoors and avoid the temperature drop.
My luck I live in one of the coldest provinces in Canada
I would use a larger box so you could use the completed battery that you show on the right. You do not want threaded rods going out the top of a rain proof box. because even if you use sealant eventually it will leak. Also a larger box will provide more room. Also you can get good deals on used Nema 12 or Nema 3R boxes on on the used market way cheaper than new.
Nice little setup there Jehu.
Damn bro, thats a clean setup ... NICE !!!
I would prefer the compression reverse from your doing now where the box itself carries the weight of the battery instead of only hanging on the screws.
I keep coming back hoping that you will make one for the 280ah-320ah cells, but not yet.
I don’t have those cells so I have very little incentive
Wouldn't it been easier to put the holes in the bottom to better weather proof the box?
Yeah do it that way if it’s better
@@jehugarcia my thoughts on it was since you already have a opening at the bottom side why not.
@michaelrohrs7475 but then you block the bottom hole with the battery, so wiring will be more challenging
@@jehugarcia that makes a lot of sense there didn't think about that great point.
Though what is the point in putting the all tread outside the box, since the top and bottom plates have screw in spots to keep the pack where you wanted it inside of the box?
Compression Kit Check, Barley Paper check, doing it right, unlike many so called experts on RUclips! 👍
How do you hook this into your solar system with net mettering?
@jehugarcia, I am using the same materials as in your video, which I purchased from Jag35, and the enclosure from Vevor. I will mount the enclosure on a plywood backer mounted to a heavy-duty hand truck for use in my garage. Above the battery enclosure, I'm using an EG4 48V-3000EHV off-grid inverter. QUESTION: If I construct the battery pack in the enclosure, as show in the video, can I then rotate the enclosure 180 degrees and mount it to the backer board - so the enclosure opening POINTS UP? Then the two wires can easily connect a short distance to the EG4 (which has its input connections pointing down at the bottom edge).
Fantastic design on the whole system here. PCBs are well made! You can parallel these as well correct? eg. If I started with one of these, I could add more later as long as that particular pack has its own BMS and the voltages are relatively well matched? Thanks for all of the great content and sharing your ideas with us!
If you take 2 nuts and put on top of each of the treaded rods and tighten them to each other, then you can turn them from the top to tighten them.
@jehugarcia You are providing a very valuable service, than you for your time. Also, is the compression pack carbon, stainlesss or aluminum? This is the only part I’d probably try to make myself…maybe two pieces per side of flat stainless with thicker allthread. I’m also going to be using in an ATV so probably laying then waterproofing box flat…you see any problems with that? Do you offer local pickup?
Great video. How have you not sold completed battery kits like this preassembled shipped to customers doors already? We need more of this to compete with companies like SOK, EG4, Orient power, jakiper, powmr, sungoldpower and the likes.
Small battery lots mostly, not worth designing system for 2 pallets of batteries, but 300 pallets, now we are talking
You're doing your part in showing them how to build their own. Thanks
ordered a set of 16. going to test it out on an electric 48V 6kW boat motor.
That’s an awesome application. These are perfect cells for a small EV project. I was thinking jet ski conversion.
This battery is 48VDC at 74AH gives you 3.55 KWhr (not 4 as stated in the video). If you compare it to what is readily available, the costs savings are marginal. If you add up the costs of the batteries, compression plate and busbar you're at $702 not even adding the cost of the batgo meters, wiring, taxes and shipping.
I compared this to the the Renogy 48VDC 50Ah smart LiPO battery. This battery comes with built-in bluetooth app monitoring, internal heating control, IP55 rating...and frankly it is ready to go with just with two connections to make. It's priced at $819. Sometimes on sale for $750. Oh, lets not forget it has a warranty.
I'm not knocking this video. It's very cool. Obviously 48v/74ah is a larger capacity. I'm just making the point that sometimes these margins actually are thin between off the shelf and DIY.
Mostly correct except this is 16 cells at 3.2v each = 51.2v x74ah = 3.788Wh
Yes, you can save money on a DIY battery like this, but you lose valuable space by going with lesser size ampere hour batteries. I like the price, but need ~300ahs. That would be 4 boxes verses 3 or even just getting one 300ah box. I do like the idea you have presented. Thanks for the video.
Isn't the difference only like 6 cents per Wh? $479 / 1780 watts is like $0.26/Wh. And that doesn't include a BMS or buss bars. If the other one is $1649 for 5120 Wh, that's $0.32/Wh. Seems like a lot of work to maybe not even save anything. EG4 PowerPro and Lifepower are $0.28/Wh.
Interesting math, why do you round down for diy but round up for eg4? Same nominal pack voltage of 52.8v x 74Ah = 3907Wh/ $479= .122/wh 12cents is a lot less that 32cents, but I’m using Mexican math so maybe that’s why.
@@jehugarciaahaha
@@jehugarciaLol I'll take Mexican math at $0.122/wh! 😂
@@jehugarcia I was just going by what your website says "NEW HIGH DISCHARGE 600A LIFEPO4 1780W PRISMATIC CELLS" for $479. $479 divided by 1780 is 26.9 cents per watt hour.
What about an inverter for the power wall ... Can we diy that also?
just buy one of these, www.opsolarbattery.com/product-page/LV6548?ref=jehu
Or you could go with the EG4 3000 watt inverter/solar charge controller/ac charger all in one for $674...If 3000 watts are enough, that unit can handle 5000 watts of solar...
I'm not following why I would use that giant circuit board instead of just bus bars..And I would use a JK BMS with an active cell balancer (2 amp), because they are used cells(maybe) that will certainly be out of balance when charging and loads are applied...And don't forget a fuse, and a circuit breaker for a disconnect...And those orient power cells are the same cells that Jakiper, EG4, and other server rack batteries use, they have 5, 7, and 10 year warranties depending on which batteries you buy..But, I prefer the DYI method..
This is diy you can build however you want, no rules as long you build safely.
Did you see the other videos? Did you see how tight these cells ran on HUGE loads?
@@ericklein5097 no,but i would still use a jk bms with the active balancer, that's a no brainer..
They do not ship the batteries to Australia.
Could you show how to connect 2 of these units together?
So if I order that 16 pack of cells from JAG 35 will you deliver it to Victoria, Australia? Even if I have to pay a little extra for shipping as long as it's not an astronomical amount. I love what you do keep it up. 😊
I would really love to buy 16 of those cells to use with my 24V 2.5Kw inverter and my pair of Jinko 315W 40V panels.
Japanese cells! Love it!! Got some Japanese in me too, say whutt!
Sehr gut 👍😊
amazing system.. but how to get in europe? especially the pcb..
Would this plate work with the new MB31 cells?
I really don't know a lot about such systems, so this may be a stupid question but - what do you use for potential BMCs? I did see someone here mention "JK BMC", and when I searched, it seems there are several options. So... what do you use here and why?
Mr Garcia. I like that EcoFlo 5kwh power kit for my camper van But I can’t afford it. Can you suggest an alternative system of yours that will do same or better then that eco Flo ?
Id like to build a 36V version for a golf cart. Have you done a busbar for 36V?
If you can design this 48v kit based the eve prismatic cells (mainly 300ah+) then I'm excited 😊,I'm doing an off grid cabin build next year (land purchased already ) I want to run a 48v 304ah bank like this .....
Some day ill get 300ah cells, for now I got what I got
Market is flooded with Chinese vendors doing 280’s and 304’s in a metal box with a PACE BMS
I would feel safer to insert the rod from the bottom. Silicone gets old under weather and uv light. So at least drill water holes in the bottom or better insert the rods from the bottom. To get room you could put timber or something on the bottom below the lower compression plate. So everything is inside.
What would be a better BMS if you wanted to spend more money
I can’t get the link to work
Also, would the compression kit be needed if the utility box provides additional compression? (I’m planning on laying the box flat so it won’t have to work against gravity)
When will the 48v compression kit be back in stock. Want to order some when available.
Back in stock now
Where can I get a 4s bussbar circuit plate
How thick (mm thickness or square millimeters ) are those PCB busbars and how many Amps can they carry?
What do I need to automatically charge my batteries during the day from the grid and then automatically use those batteries during the peak hours? Certainly we can build this and avoid those peak rates. For me, this would payoff quicker than Solar.
That enclosure is no longer waterproof after you made four holes on the top. You need to use some kind of sealant on and preferrably under the washers and nuts and redo it every time you have to rotate the threaded rods or nuts. Water *will* seep under the washers and down into the box if you leave it like this in the rain.
Yeah I suggest silicone sealant
@@jehugarciaThe battery assembly itself looks very neat. The PCB sheet is a great idea.
Those bolts are sketchy. You should consider nordlock, or atleast nylon nuts or using dual nuts
You can buy any nuts for your cells
How about one of these PCBs for 304ah cells?
Would 1 of these 48v 16s setups be sufficient for a 10kw motor with a continuous 245amp draw?
Is there shipping to the Middle East, specifically Yemen?
No, UsA only
There is no way to make it 24v system?
Yes we have the 24v busbar PCBs on jag35.con
I'd probably put a pouch of silica gel in their just to be safe
Why seller not just cell the whole unit pakage?
Big batteries are harder to ship with all the regulations.
And labor to build it… it’s takes time and effort to do it. And at the point it would add to the cost, and would make more sense to buy a server rack battery new
@Zodiac83104 yes I would have to sell it for $1600
Why 48 volts I'm using 12 ?
If its for a power wall, you want higher voltage so you're not using low gauge wire to go to your power sources. Its cost effective and probably safer
Can this ve used for a golf cart?
Yes
I need this level of power in 12v for my Vanlife in Canada. Is it possible? if yes point me in the right direction. please.
We got the 12v version but I can’t help you if you are in Canada
I have a work around. can you send me a link?
@@jehugarcia
Bus bar sold out permanently??
LEV60 cells jag35.com/products/high-discharge-600a-lifepo4-1780w-prismatic-cells?variant=40939338432627
Any larger 12 volt banks or even 14 voltage?
@@Islandboyzadventure jag35.com/products/fully-assembled-12v-178ah-1200a-lev60f-lifepo4-battery
Hello do you know if I can add one of these builds to my existing simpliphi battery bank and use the same charging parameters?
no I don't, all I can tall you is that this is 16s LiFePO4 like most other 48v systems out there so max voltage should be 58.4vdc
Holy Moly, us 3.8kwh = $479 them 3.8kwh = $2300. looks to be different chemistry on a quick look.
Yea they are pricey. I live off grid and they work great. Max charge is 56volts recommended. I’m going to setup my daughters she shed off grid and was thinking about building the ones you have .
I wish battery hook up would ship to new zealand
I imagine you could put 2 or 3 of these 48volt packs in parallel, but am not sure, does anybody know the answer to that question..
You can parallel an infinite amount of these. There’s no limit
Though one must always remain aware of the fault current @@jehugarcia
What is the purpose of this battery bank
To store 4kWh of electrical energy.
@@jehugarcia for solar power grid to the houses
48v system... what is the process to run 110 -240 v appliances in one's house?
Connect to an inverter.
@@redredred1Exactly. There are inverters that take 48V DC in. Their input range usually is wide enough to handle 57.6V which is what these batteries will have for a short while when topped up to 100%.
Listen up, folks! I've been living completely off the grid for four years while studying electronics engineering and being part of the electrical union. You might hear that you're getting 74Ah at 48 volts and think, "Wow, this battery is only $0.12 per watt!" But let me tell you, that's a misleading way to gauge your power needs in a genuine off-grid scenario.
The real metric you should be considering is cost per amp, not cost per watt, especially when you take into account the battery voltage. Think about it-just to power a laptop that requires 15 watts, I use a 150-watt power adapter. That equates to $22.50 for merely one hour to keep that laptop running. Trust me, that's not a bargain. But hey, go ahead and find out for yourself if you're not convinced.
Nobody Is basing costs on power..... 12 cents per watt hour, yes capacity
Good Morning
How can I order unit already put together
There’s no such thing, you have to build it like I did here
8:04 why be cheap with heat shrink? Come on guys, give'r the extra inch!
It’s irrelevant, this is a demonstration, you are focusing on something that will not have an effect on the performance of this test.
@@jehugarcia good practices take just that, practice.
Those battery cables... *cringe* :) Like these PCBs, very clean, nice work. Would be interesting to see something in 100/280/304 Ah (Like EVE cells) for Solar storage.
What’s wrong with my cables?
@@jehugarciaHm, attached a pic showing the concern but maybe you or RUclips didn't want the link...anyhow, the bare wire is showing pulled out of the shrink wrap on both positive and negative.
I ordered 48 of these batteries but they haven’t shipped. Can I still get the $30/cell price?
Support@jag35.com
ALL THREAD(HexHead)BOLT with a weather washer from the top Down would works so much better and have 4 Nut-plates on your bottom plate to compress your batteries.
Probably a good idea to use a torque driver.
oooooooooh snap. He done did it. Now I have to put my money where my mouth is.
Price for cells is good, but shipping is an outrage.
Not really watertight with those boltholes in the top.
Exactly. I would also be wary of the mechanical sturdiness of the sheet metal at the top. Suspending 35 kilos of batteries from a sheet of 1.5mm carbon steel even if supported on four sides by bent material is still a bit too flimsy in my opinion. I would have added a bigger supporting plate on the top inside or outside the cabinet to spread the load or at least use a couple long pieces of 50mm wide steel flats to bridge two holes, stiffen the sheet and support the load under the washers and nuts. These cabinets might be rated for 45 kilos but that weight is meant to be suspended from the rear wall, not the side walls of the enclosure!
oops ! the website not shipping to my country
Losing I can't buy because of this.😢😢
LOL THIS FOOL!!!! @5:17 YOU STILL HAVE THE 2ND SET OF BATTERIES BACKWARDS.
This is not best practice for prismatic cells. The orientation is incorrect, In this orientation some of the internal plates are starved of electrolyte. They should always be upright or thin side down so the electrolyte makes contact with all plates.
Does that $1600 also include an inverter?
I don't think so. Jehu did a full video on that Orient Power unit here: ruclips.net/video/TPPukLjUc_0/видео.htmlsi=4j43zPm8MiQAQEGA
Here he breaks down the battery + the matching inverter: ruclips.net/video/50nUMvbB5so/видео.htmlsi=27dqpszgmD0H4wDT
Please sell me this kit and send it to Australia..😊
Don't call me unless its REALLY sketchy. 😁
Would love to buy from you but your shippingcost to europe are crazy.
My shipping price to Europe is zero as I do not ship to Europe
@@jehugarcia nice to know. Now i can unfollow.
Don’t bother us Americans
@@jehugarcia Are there bulk shipping discounts to Texas? It seems crazy that a large order will be several thousand dollars in shipping.
Any local pickup options?
anyone else wondering if he ever got zapped while touching the terminals on the battery :p
You can’t feel 48v. I think you start feeling it somewhere around 60v when you have dry hands, if you are sweaty then that number goes down to around 40v you start feeling thingly.
#1🎉
You rok!!!
NO GUARANTEE THAT ALL CELLS WILL BE USEABLE??? TOO MUCH OF A PIG IN A POKE FOR ME...
Where does it say that?