Need a 4 link up front to make it quit hopping. The rear is not causing it at all. I sled pull a 6.0 and it does the same thing if you don’t have a 4 link
Then he'll need to spend more and more money lol. Every time you step up the power you need more and more supporting mods. He would need to tear the motor down and do new rods and all sorts of stuff.
@@outdoordaily64636.0 powerstroke has a stronger rotating assembly than the cummins and Duramax’s of the same era. They were known to handle up to 900hp. The head gaskets were the weak point but studs and o rings fix that right up
Sounds like it would take forever to spool up and have terrible daily drivability😂the small turbo is supposed to be small so it doesn’t take a year to build boost on track applications
Rear springs are probably wore along with shocks, let a lil air out of the back tires will make it hook way harder if you are running super hard radials, or go to a wider tire and rim overall. Or put a little more weight on the rear.
So in drag racing on my leaf spring cars wheel hop is from a couple things. Too loose of front end. And or too tight or loose of rear end. So if possible maybe doing a set of shocks all around. A good set of tires would help too. Try also dropping rear tire pressure 10 psi (if it’s at like 35-40 and drop the front the same amount). But look into trying shocks or maybe some heavier duty shocks so it won’t allow as easily of movement if that makes sense. Will need to get a video of you watching the truck from the outside with it launching and wheel hopping, to really tell what it’s doing to see how to fix it or what needs adjusted
your death wobbles might be due to having radius arm drop brackets still installed on a stock level truck. it's making your front end out of geometry with it being stock ride height.
Just thinking the fact that you busted the front transfer case makes me think it's never really been the rear end that's the issue. Iv read that lower front tire pressure could mitigate it but isn't really a solution. A 3 link front end swap would be your best bet. I can't wait to see how far you take this truck man. Honestly its already a beast. I'd love to line it up with my 6.7 powerstroke.
The wheel hop in 4x4 is the front axle bouncing and nothing to do with the rear axle. You need a 4 link kit for the front axle or Depending on height, you can use a 5-6' long by 2" wide strap. Take the strap around the engine cross member and around the axle housing. Tighten untill it cannot go any more. Also try airing down front tires.
“Clearly not traction bars $1,000 later “ 😂awesome tho dude I will always have a soft spot for a screaming 6.0 I love that truck. It’s the rear springs I bet ?
When you did your traction bars you needed to put them on with the truck on the ground and settled the suspension then measure and attach the traction bars
You should get that front end color matched and a set of wides it will help out on the traction side you may loose a bit on the 0-60 but it will give you a lot less spin
The front end hops when the axels are not stiff and get play in them, that’s why 2wd has no wheel hop. You don’t have all the front drive shaft and chain of steering components active under that amount of stress. Just like track bars keep your rear axel from wrapping the front four link will keep that front axel from loosing stability. I commented a bit more under another comment but that’s the quick explanation
Remove a rear leaf, nice shocks. Make a taller “drag” shock fit will have to make some brackets. Decent tires and lower the tire pressure to 15-18psi range. You’ll definitely get sub 4second 0-60
After pulling the lift off you need to pull the front radius arm drop brackets as to keep your caster and drive line angle in good shape as to not cause it to blow out the front drive line
Should paint or powder coat the bars red same and steering linkage would look sick maybe lower it a bit with drag radials and maybe some bead lock rims.
You could add a Timbren SES Suspension enhancement kit to basically keep the axle and frame in contact with each other and you can drastically stiffen your suspension in the front and rear… more for a towing application but I think if you used the included spacer to have it be full contact then you could maybe get something there
My guess would be axle wrap or failure to weight transfer. Maybe caltrac bars and some good shocks lower tire pressure down 5-10 psi front and back. A better set of street tires would help a lot I think.
Bet if you did some new differential in the truck. Plant power a little more.Upgrade the shocks to bags. More comfortable ride can take a lot of the hop out.
Mount your cameras on your frame and watch your front and rear axles. Lower psi in the rear, your front end is hopping most likely, pinion angle/caster, loose/worn parts.
All your wheel hop is in the front end, springs & shocks probably worn out. I’d pull those radius arm drop brackets off too just excess stress on the front u joints !
For everyone telling him to start going for higher power, he’s gonna need a built motor quickly. A stock motor 6.0 isn’t good for much more than 700-800 horsepower. Let him enjoy it for a bit before he spends 30k more 😭
The 4 link would help a ton, mount a go pro under the front end on a launch and you will see all the components shaking and jerking causing that side to side “hop”. Make sure all your front end parts are tight. Check toe rods, sway bar, links, track bar, pitman arm, hub/bearings, literally everything. A four link will keep all those front end components tight. It stiffens the front end just like the trac bars in the rear.
Also you are probably porpoising vs wheel hop. Meaning it lifts the front, loses traction, falls down, grabs again and just keeps jumping. Wheel hop would happen in two wheel drive. This is 100% fixable by strapping the front.
Four link the rear end change the shocks out to some qa1 adjustable shocks put some better traction bars on the front with adjustable coil overs dual steering stabilizers
She definitely looks much nicer without the steps. Good job on the 6.0 it is coming along very nicely. It is a whole different beast compared to what she was when you purchased her. I am hoping the 7.3 is coming along very nice as well. I have a question about the tuner device: If you unplug the tuner device does the truck return to stock tuning.
drag radial or it's in a area for mickey's on safe area, and it's a short bed so the power is reaching back there pretty face, you might just have to compromise the dead stop and be cool with roll start to avoid damaging anything
Do a 4 link front and look over the rear suspension to see if anything is old and to soft might have to get a stiffer suspension and also lower the tire psi
Put a GoPro on the suspension for front and rear and see what it’s doing to start the wheel hop. If the suspension is flexing or moving in any way it shouldn’t the tire will hop
Try leaving in 2nd gear instead of 1st, to eliminate the 1-2 shift. Would get real close to your 3 sec 0-60. Plus, i bet youll be able to launch harder without wheel hop
Congratulations on 1000+ orders! 🎉 I’m #1094 😅 I bought a 7.🌲hat and wanted to ask for your signature on it 🙏 I’ve been watching the content since that beast of a 6.7 was built
@@powerstrokecentralthank you brother I just received the signed hat ❤❤ god bless you 🥹 made my day for sure hope you’re having a wonderful day today ❤❤❤❤
I don’t get why they cut them that short the ones I have and see are around 72in. Not sure if the length would be the issue but that’s what comes to my mind. I feel like the angle they’re at and how short they are I think that could be the issue
The tires you have arnt helping I switched to drag radials and holy fuck major difference. I think part of it is the drag radial is able to spin a little before the tire plants and goes and is able to avoid the wheel hop
I’m begging you to fix the speedometer 💀
Need a 4 link up front to make it quit hopping. The rear is not causing it at all. I sled pull a 6.0 and it does the same thing if you don’t have a 4 link
Ratchet straps are the cheaper option for sled and drag use
Exactly what I was coming to say. The rear hardly matters when it comes to hop.
@@haydonsicklesprevents axle wrap at least
@JohnJennings-cn3sj there's definitely things you can add to the rear to make it better but the hop he's getting is only from the front not the rear
In the future you should use your stage 3 turbo as the small turbo in a compound setup and pair it with like an s488 and make like 1,200hp
Then he'll need to spend more and more money lol. Every time you step up the power you need more and more supporting mods. He would need to tear the motor down and do new rods and all sorts of stuff.
That WOULD be very cool, I see where you’re coming from. Just a little tip for future reference, it’s a ford it’s gonna pop dude. Power joke
@@outdoordaily6463 why you drive one then brotha
@@outdoordaily64636.0 powerstroke has a stronger rotating assembly than the cummins and Duramax’s of the same era. They were known to handle up to 900hp. The head gaskets were the weak point but studs and o rings fix that right up
Sounds like it would take forever to spool up and have terrible daily drivability😂the small turbo is supposed to be small so it doesn’t take a year to build boost on track applications
Radius arms!!!!!!!, do a 4 link swap on the front
Lighter wheels and tires would benefit that 0-60 because less rotational mass= more faster
But also more wheel hop
Pull the mirrors back and roll up the windows.
Rear springs are probably wore along with shocks, let a lil air out of the back tires will make it hook way harder if you are running super hard radials, or go to a wider tire and rim overall. Or put a little more weight on the rear.
Justin's a helluva welder lol good stuff yall
So in drag racing on my leaf spring cars wheel hop is from a couple things. Too loose of front end. And or too tight or loose of rear end. So if possible maybe doing a set of shocks all around. A good set of tires would help too. Try also dropping rear tire pressure 10 psi (if it’s at like 35-40 and drop the front the same amount). But look into trying shocks or maybe some heavier duty shocks so it won’t allow as easily of movement if that makes sense. Will need to get a video of you watching the truck from the outside with it launching and wheel hopping, to really tell what it’s doing to see how to fix it or what needs adjusted
I don't know much about trucks, but if it only does it in 4wd, I would look into the front end and front and rear shocks.
your death wobbles might be due to having radius arm drop brackets still installed on a stock level truck. it's making your front end out of geometry with it being stock ride height.
gettin that fixed asap
Just thinking the fact that you busted the front transfer case makes me think it's never really been the rear end that's the issue. Iv read that lower front tire pressure could mitigate it but isn't really a solution. A 3 link front end swap would be your best bet. I can't wait to see how far you take this truck man. Honestly its already a beast. I'd love to line it up with my 6.7 powerstroke.
The wheel hop in 4x4 is the front axle bouncing and nothing to do with the rear axle. You need a 4 link kit for the front axle or Depending on height, you can use a 5-6' long by 2" wide strap. Take the strap around the engine cross member and around the axle housing. Tighten untill it cannot go any more. Also try airing down front tires.
4-linking the front end will help put a lot.
“Clearly not traction bars $1,000 later “ 😂awesome tho dude I will always have a soft spot for a screaming 6.0 I love that truck. It’s the rear springs I bet ?
Love it, keep these coming! Can’t wait for tires! Tires! Tires! Tires!
When you did your traction bars you needed to put them on with the truck on the ground and settled the suspension then measure and attach the traction bars
My man! Keep em coming!! I need to drop my videos on my other channel. I’m just waiting to get my truck back from the shop. Stay tuned my boy.!!
Commenting for support!
Keep the killer diesel content comin!!
I like that we saw the work getting done
And I also love your content it’s an inspiration to work on my project car again
thanks brotha
Do you feel the hop in your seat or the steering wheel? When I launch my truck in 4x4 i get wheel hop as well and it's the front axle, not the rear.
Those are a surprising upgrade
You should get that front end color matched and a set of wides it will help out on the traction side you may loose a bit on the 0-60 but it will give you a lot less spin
Drag radios would be perfect and some new shocks in the rear
The front end hops when the axels are not stiff and get play in them, that’s why 2wd has no wheel hop. You don’t have all the front drive shaft and chain of steering components active under that amount of stress. Just like track bars keep your rear axel from wrapping the front four link will keep that front axel from loosing stability. I commented a bit more under another comment but that’s the quick explanation
Now you need some black rims with some sticker tires for more grip
Stickier
Remove a rear leaf, nice shocks. Make a taller “drag” shock fit will have to make some brackets. Decent tires and lower the tire pressure to 15-18psi range. You’ll definitely get sub 4second 0-60
After pulling the lift off you need to pull the front radius arm drop brackets as to keep your caster and drive line angle in good shape as to not cause it to blow out the front drive line
Should paint or powder coat the bars red same and steering linkage would look sick maybe lower it a bit with drag radials and maybe some bead lock rims.
You could add a Timbren SES Suspension enhancement kit to basically keep the axle and frame in contact with each other and you can drastically stiffen your suspension in the front and rear… more for a towing application but I think if you used the included spacer to have it be full contact then you could maybe get something there
My guess would be axle wrap or failure to weight transfer. Maybe caltrac bars and some good shocks lower tire pressure down 5-10 psi front and back. A better set of street tires would help a lot I think.
Bet if you did some new differential in the truck. Plant power a little more.Upgrade the shocks to bags. More comfortable ride can take a lot of the hop out.
Mount your cameras on your frame and watch your front and rear axles.
Lower psi in the rear, your front end is hopping most likely, pinion angle/caster, loose/worn parts.
All your wheel hop is in the front end, springs & shocks probably worn out. I’d pull those radius arm drop brackets off too just excess stress on the front u joints !
For everyone telling him to start going for higher power, he’s gonna need a built motor quickly. A stock motor 6.0 isn’t good for much more than 700-800 horsepower. Let him enjoy it for a bit before he spends 30k more 😭
4 link the front. That’ll definitely help with the wheel hop
Had a couple people say that would strapping down the fron be the same thing?
The 4 link would help a ton, mount a go pro under the front end on a launch and you will see all the components shaking and jerking causing that side to side “hop”. Make sure all your front end parts are tight. Check toe rods, sway bar, links, track bar, pitman arm, hub/bearings, literally everything. A four link will keep all those front end components tight. It stiffens the front end just like the trac bars in the rear.
Strapping the front will keep it from lifting the front tire and you will get a ton more traction.
Also you are probably porpoising vs wheel hop. Meaning it lifts the front, loses traction, falls down, grabs again and just keeps jumping. Wheel hop would happen in two wheel drive. This is 100% fixable by strapping the front.
@@powerstrokecentral my buddy used to use big ratchet straps on his when we were truck pulling and it helped the wheel tremendously
4 link the front end and if you mount your phone would the 0-60 times get any better?
Four link the rear end change the shocks out to some qa1 adjustable shocks put some better traction bars on the front with adjustable coil overs dual steering stabilizers
Check your leaves spring bushing and definitely shocks could not be rebounding good enough and let the axle hop
She definitely looks much nicer without the steps. Good job on the 6.0 it is coming along very nicely. It is a whole different beast compared to what she was when you purchased her. I am hoping the 7.3 is coming along very nice as well. I have a question about the tuner device: If you unplug the tuner device does the truck return to stock tuning.
In order for your truck to go back to stock tune is to take the chip out of the pcm.
Take the radius arm drop brackets off and put some limit straps on it or 4 link
Love the channel brother!
Thanks man spend days making these videos
I definitely stay on top of it! I own a 02 7.3
No steps for sure buddy!
Wsp man you need a 4 link the front it might have some wheel hop but it will be minimized a lot so a 4 link would be a good idea
Do they makey a drag style rim for this big a truck thatd be sick with street legal drag tires
drag radial or it's in a area for mickey's on safe area, and it's a short bed so the power is reaching back there pretty face, you might just have to compromise the dead stop and be cool with roll start to avoid damaging anything
Great vid
Looking good! New wheels and tires??😅
Do a 4 link front and look over the rear suspension to see if anything is old and to soft might have to get a stiffer suspension and also lower the tire psi
Put a GoPro on the suspension for front and rear and see what it’s doing to start the wheel hop.
If the suspension is flexing or moving in any way it shouldn’t the tire will hop
190 is reasonable temps depending on temperature in your location. If it’s warm out
JH diesel had a good ish video on this. From what I remember it’s something with the stock control arms
Wheels and street drag tires🎉❤
Try leaving in 2nd gear instead of 1st, to eliminate the 1-2 shift. Would get real close to your 3 sec 0-60. Plus, i bet youll be able to launch harder without wheel hop
You should try caltracs
4 link the front is what’s hopping
Congratulations on 1000+ orders! 🎉 I’m #1094 😅 I bought a 7.🌲hat and wanted to ask for your signature on it 🙏 I’ve been watching the content since that beast of a 6.7 was built
Thanks bro I wish I got 1000 orders that’s just the order number not how many orders I have actually gotten. I will sign er for ya. 👊
@@powerstrokecentralthank you brother I just received the signed hat ❤❤ god bless you 🥹 made my day for sure hope you’re having a wonderful day today ❤❤❤❤
Love the vid!! looking at my first 7.3/ truck this Sunday!
Nice bro
@@powerstrokecentraljust bought it today for 10000 no accidents 161k on the dash
YES THE 6.4 SHE WILL BE A RIPPER JUST WITH A DELETE AND TUNE
Might need some sticky street tires to put the power to the ground.
How do you prevent transfer case damage?
Play with air pressure and a good set of tires.
Ik this isn’t a truck but just a wild thought, on my mustang I had wheel hop really bad and it was from my rear control arm bushing being dry rot
Running new street tires would help❤
It needs f350 leaf springs to stop the wheel hop
Could be the front axle bouncing since you don’t have a 4 link if your doing 4wd launch
I would do rear shocks and springs, tires and put a LSD in the diff
pro form fab makes a 4 link for the front very affordable
Who writes your tunes for the 6.7 I cant find anyone
No steps. And get some bilstien shocks that would help a little more to
Do a compound set up to get to the sud 4 second mark
4.1, you probably got a 3.7 or 3.5 with mickeys or drags LOW resistant and right launching shocks and springs
Aye bro you should cut this truck into a shorty!
Also it looks like you still have your radius arm drop brackets at stock height?? Thats not good.
I don’t get why they cut them that short the ones I have and see are around 72in. Not sure if the length would be the issue but that’s what comes to my mind. I feel like the angle they’re at and how short they are I think that could be the issue
The tires you have arnt helping I switched to drag radials and holy fuck major difference. I think part of it is the drag radial is able to spin a little before the tire plants and goes and is able to avoid the wheel hop
Set some preload on the traction bars
If your truck only wheel hops when it loses traction, then you could “add traction” by doing a wider set of stickier tires
if you're focusing on 0 to 60, your tires and shocks gonna need the right tunning, but atleast check out your 50 to 100mph
Needs a 4link
go to a 4 link drag setup in the rear
The wheel hop is from the coil spring front end with a solid axle and leaf springs it wouldn’t do it
I’d think rear leaf springs or even in the front end
It’s in the front, you have to get four link on the front
Maybe try some weight in the back? I have no idea
191 on a 6.0 is completely normal....i run 192 in the summer just cruising
we were suprised because we usually run 180 after hard rips
@@powerstrokecentral is it warmer now outside?
@@powerstrokecentral I did during the winter as well…once the weather warms up your average will be 188-192 with a good fan and low temp thermostat
@@Redbeard_6.0hyour the man
should definitely invest in a decent set of tires
that motor WANTS to be between 185 and 205 for the most efficient fuel burn. shes happy at 191
You need a torque tube
front suspension is whats making the hop
I would get new rear shocks. New tires and let air out of the rear tires. I also would get front trac bars.
It’s your front end hoping not the rear so maybe front control arms
Try a lower tire pressure and maybe some shocks.
Locker in the rear?
Have someone take a video outside of the truck while launching. Maybe even slomotion. I bet it’s the front end wheel hoping
Put some smaller steet tires on it and you’ll run faster to
Stud your heads now and I'd say fix your speedometer and compound turbo it, maybe drag slicks.
The Front axle is hopping
191 is considered hot in your truck? I thought the factory thermostat was a 192.
front is whats hopping btw