I think this is the best instructional video I've seen on RUclips. Very clear, detailed, and to-the-point. Diagrams, sizes and torques were given. Great lighting and camera angles. No obnoxious RUclips voice affectation heard so often, just a guy talking in a normal way that is easy to follow and understand.
Like so many have said, this is the best how to video Ive ever seen. You are so chill, I love how you leave in the fumbles along the way, and of course, you perfected a 5 hour job into 33 mins. Just brilliant. I don't even own an MDX yet, but am thinking of buying a 2011 which has not had its belt done yet, and this was a great way to learn what I would be in for. Dude, you da man. So much repsect, I never leave comments. :) Watched the whole thing.
I changed my 2013 v6 timing belt 4 years ago and I got a very deep cut on my thumb when the back cam slipped forward. It was very hard for me to hold enough tension of the back cam in 1-2 teeths forward with one hand and aligned the new belt with mark on and slide it under the metal guard rail with another hand. The back cam jerked forward and there went my thumb, the outer edge of the back cam was very sharp and it slit my thumb with a deep cut. I'm telling this so whoever plans to do this to be careful at this step. OP did a fantastic job because he's a pro 😁 and made it look easier than it actually is when it's time to put the belt on the back cam with limited room and slide it under the metal guard while moving 1-2 teeths to align the marks. Everything OP did in this video is top notch. I was not aware that one can do this without taking the steering pump apart. Well done OP.
This was an excellent video and looked very straight forward to do myself. You are obviously a very experienced mechanic. I do most of the service on my family's cars over the years and this was my 3rd timing belt change (first on this MDX). It did not go well and took a very long time. I bought all the recommended parts and tools that I did not already have. Several things went wrong like snapping the bolt head on the ground wire and discovering that the upper guide of the old water pump was stuck in the hole and I could not get it out. I was able to drill it out of the new one and installed it without leaks. I could not tighten that main bolt past 15 degrees more even though it said 60. Using my torque wrench I was able to get the max 200 foot pounds though, Upon finishing after several days, the car runs rough and is flashing the check engine light, error code p301. All plugs and ignition coils were changed earlier in the year. I re-installed the belt again with the same result. I triple checked that I lined up the new belt with the old like you showed, lined up the front and rear cams but I am obviously off. I am posting this humbly and as a warning to others that are considering doing this to make sure you are up to the task, it is a lot of work and very tedious. Ultimately I am bringing the car in to have it done by my local mechanic.
@farnerol Thanks for the comment. Sorry you had so much trouble with your car 😕. A P0301 is a cylinder one misfire and is not related to the timing belt. When you changed the ignition coils what brand did you use?
Where would those be located? Are they under or near the water pump? I found another video but they removed the oil pan. That seems like too much more work.
@@jaysone950 I guess I thought he meant the front crank seal. Once the belt is off the crank gear should slide off and the seal can be popped out and a new one tapped in.
thanks for the video. It was easy to follow. Though I created a bigger problem for myself. I broke two water pump screw by over torqueing it. It is the two top left. Base on it location I wasn't able to extract it. Any suggestion? I have't drove it yet but left the car on the 5 minutes and nothing is leaking yet.
If you have it all back together and it hasn't leaked you might be ok. The engine mount bracket also puts pressure on the pump so it may seal up just fine. Take it for a spin and check it again when you get back.
@@thehegt No, the driver side can stay on the ground. If you want a little more room under the car then you can lift the driver side up. Other than that it's not necessary 👍
@@jeffreygrullon2962 The process is pretty much the same with some minor differences. You won't have a power steering pump. The top engine mount is a different shape and some torque specs are different.
@ValleyMobileAutomotive I'm happy to hear that, I ordered them after I found out the dealer wants over $1000 for same parts. Also ordered cam and crank seals
@@andreilesiuk9538 Good question. I recommend the Aisin brand. The information I have says your RDX takes the same timing kit as this MDX. I have links in the description 👍
So I neglected to mark the old belt - now the crankshaft timing mark is a little off when the camshaft marks line up after 6 revolutions (which they do). Am I in for taking the belt off and redoing it?
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I installed the new tensioner, removed the pin and then hand-cranked the crankshaft. I'm resolved at the moment to removing the tensioner, rerouting the belt (more taut on the right side as I go this time) and repeating the manual cranking test. My Aisin kit says as much: ensure marks are aligned, but if not "repeat installation and tensioning procedure." 🤷
I am a shade tree mechanic and have been following this video step by step today, all has been perfect, thank you! The one issue I have is it appears my rear cam has rotated from its 12:00 mark to like 3:00. So I have the new belt lined up on the crank and the front cam, but the rear cam has somehow rotated about 60 degrees…I have been stuck on that issue for about 2hrs and now called it a night, any ideas?
@@ValleyMobileAutomotiveThank you, I just had to finesse it. Got the project done today and had started it yesterday. Without this video I would have been very lost. Thanks again, awesome video!!
When you’re routing the new belt, don’t turn the crank to make the marks line up…. You’re supposed to keep the bolt loose on the idler bearing (above and towards the front from the crank), which allows enough play to properly line up the marks without moving the crank or cams. Once the belt is routed and the marks are lined up, you can tighten the idler bearing… this will tighten the front section of belt, then you can mount the tensioner and pull the grenade pin.
Thanks for your comment. I believe how you explained it is how the manual explains it. That's important for a new belt without marks. If you mark your belt before removal and transfer the marks to the new belt then you can install the new belt a few different ways as long as the marks line up. I leave the crank where it is and move the cam clockwise one or two teeth. Once the belt is on I move it back. Either way works if you have the marks 👍
I think this is the best instructional video I've seen on RUclips. Very clear, detailed, and to-the-point. Diagrams, sizes and torques were given. Great lighting and camera angles. No obnoxious RUclips voice affectation heard so often, just a guy talking in a normal way that is easy to follow and understand.
Thanks! I appreciate your feedback 🙂
It definitely is the best instructional video
That was the best explanation of properly replacing a timing belt on the Internet! Bravo 👏 Sir!
Like so many have said, this is the best how to video Ive ever seen. You are so chill, I love how you leave in the fumbles along the way, and of course, you perfected a 5 hour job into 33 mins. Just brilliant. I don't even own an MDX yet, but am thinking of buying a 2011 which has not had its belt done yet, and this was a great way to learn what I would be in for. Dude, you da man. So much repsect, I never leave comments. :) Watched the whole thing.
@@i9design67 Thanks for your comment! These are great cars if you decide to purchase one 👍
I’ve been a shop owner for 40 years and an instructor for Snap On and your video is one of the best common sense videos out there. 👍
@@Nova-1977 Thanks for the complement! Glad this video was helpful 🙂
I changed my 2013 v6 timing belt 4 years ago and I got a very deep cut on my thumb when the back cam slipped forward. It was very hard for me to hold enough tension of the back cam in 1-2 teeths forward with one hand and aligned the new belt with mark on and slide it under the metal guard rail with another hand. The back cam jerked forward and there went my thumb, the outer edge of the back cam was very sharp and it slit my thumb with a deep cut. I'm telling this so whoever plans to do this to be careful at this step. OP did a fantastic job because he's a pro 😁 and made it look easier than it actually is when it's time to put the belt on the back cam with limited room and slide it under the metal guard while moving 1-2 teeths to align the marks. Everything OP did in this video is top notch. I was not aware that one can do this without taking the steering pump apart. Well done OP.
I'm very impressed that this video is 100% explanatory step by step.
Thanks! I'm glad this was helpful 👍
This was an excellent video and looked very straight forward to do myself. You are obviously a very experienced mechanic. I do most of the service on my family's cars over the years and this was my 3rd timing belt change (first on this MDX). It did not go well and took a very long time. I bought all the recommended parts and tools that I did not already have. Several things went wrong like snapping the bolt head on the ground wire and discovering that the upper guide of the old water pump was stuck in the hole and I could not get it out. I was able to drill it out of the new one and installed it without leaks. I could not tighten that main bolt past 15 degrees more even though it said 60. Using my torque wrench I was able to get the max 200 foot pounds though, Upon finishing after several days, the car runs rough and is flashing the check engine light, error code p301. All plugs and ignition coils were changed earlier in the year. I re-installed the belt again with the same result. I triple checked that I lined up the new belt with the old like you showed, lined up the front and rear cams but I am obviously off. I am posting this humbly and as a warning to others that are considering doing this to make sure you are up to the task, it is a lot of work and very tedious. Ultimately I am bringing the car in to have it done by my local mechanic.
@farnerol Thanks for the comment. Sorry you had so much trouble with your car 😕. A P0301 is a cylinder one misfire and is not related to the timing belt. When you changed the ignition coils what brand did you use?
Did you find out what was the problem?
This is one of the best instructional videos I've ever seen! Thank you so much for the great info!
@@andylenart7154 Thanks for your comment! Glad this video was helpful 🙂
This is very straight to the point and very easy to follow. Thank you. Will be doing mine today, you saved me thousands of dollars.
Nice! If you have any questions feel free to add them to the comments 👍
Great video. But I would’ve also done the oil pump gaskets that tend to leak on these kind of while you’re in there job
That's a good idea since you're already in there 👍
Where would those be located? Are they under or near the water pump? I found another video but they removed the oil pan. That seems like too much more work.
@@jaysone950 I guess I thought he meant the front crank seal. Once the belt is off the crank gear should slide off and the seal can be popped out and a new one tapped in.
Solid video. Thanks for the detailed steps
I wish you would have done the oil pump seals but otherwise one of the best videos on how to do this!
Great video! Worked out exactly as described, thanks.
@@edwardpoirier7327 Awesome! Glad this video was helpful 🙂
Great video, very well explained!
Awesome video and thanks for taking the time to make this and sharing with the community!!! How long of a job is this from start to finish?
Very nice video where are you from I need to do same to my Acura mdx 2011.
Good job only professional
@@pabpelonia5101 Thanks! Glad this video was helpful 🙂
thanks for the video. It was easy to follow. Though I created a bigger problem for myself. I broke two water pump screw by over torqueing it. It is the two top left. Base on it location I wasn't able to extract it. Any suggestion?
I have't drove it yet but left the car on the 5 minutes and nothing is leaking yet.
If you have it all back together and it hasn't leaked you might be ok. The engine mount bracket also puts pressure on the pump so it may seal up just fine. Take it for a spin and check it again when you get back.
Great video
Very Nice video great instructions
Thanks! Glad this is helpful 🙂
Amazing video very indepth and extremely well produced! What was the shop time on this?
@@PowerHouseProjects about 5 hours for the belt and water pump.
Fantastic Video 👍👍
They also make a special heavy socket to make it easier to remove with an impact wrench
Yeah, that would have done the trick. I can usually get them with the socket I have but this one was especially tight! I'm glad I had a backup plan 🙂
Hello , do the driver side tire need to off the ground when adjust timing ?
@@thehegt No, the driver side can stay on the ground. If you want a little more room under the car then you can lift the driver side up. Other than that it's not necessary 👍
What’s up! Thank you for the vid. I’m doing a 2015 mdx do you know how much different it can be? What manual did you use?
@@jeffreygrullon2962 The process is pretty much the same with some minor differences. You won't have a power steering pump. The top engine mount is a different shape and some torque specs are different.
Are the parts listed in description reliable like the oem parts?
@@bigbrownbull Good question. The timing kit with water pump is from AISIN. They are the OEM manufacturer for Honda and Acura 👍
@ValleyMobileAutomotive I'm happy to hear that, I ordered them after I found out the dealer wants over $1000 for same parts. Also ordered cam and crank seals
@bigbrownbull Nice! Let us know how it goes 👍
How much did this job cost? Great work
Well done thumb up
@@jafoura123 Thank you! Glad this video was helpful 🙂
Hi, which timing belt kit brand did you use? It’s for Acura RDX 2013. Should I get parts from dealer or aftermarket?
Continental, deyco, etc?
Thanks
@@andreilesiuk9538 Good question. I recommend the Aisin brand. The information I have says your RDX takes the same timing kit as this MDX. I have links in the description 👍
You’re a great mechanic!!! Thank you
Where did you get the digital guide you reference in the video?
I subscribe to a professional shop service that gives me access to all kinds of makes and models.
It needs a weighted 2 lbs socket to crack it
So I neglected to mark the old belt - now the crankshaft timing mark is a little off when the camshaft marks line up after 6 revolutions (which they do). Am I in for taking the belt off and redoing it?
Does it look like it's a full belt tooth off?
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Yes, just about exactly!
@@GeraldTilma Silly question but are you turning the engine by hand with the belt tensioner deployed or does it still have the lock pin in it?
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I installed the new tensioner, removed the pin and then hand-cranked the crankshaft.
I'm resolved at the moment to removing the tensioner, rerouting the belt (more taut on the right side as I go this time) and repeating the manual cranking test. My Aisin kit says as much: ensure marks are aligned, but if not "repeat installation and tensioning procedure." 🤷
@@GeraldTilma Sounds like a good plan. Let us know how it goes 👍
What’s the website where you see the diagrams of the timing marks on your computer
Our shop uses Identifix.
I am a shade tree mechanic and have been following this video step by step today, all has been perfect, thank you!
The one issue I have is it appears my rear cam has rotated from its 12:00 mark to like 3:00. So I have the new belt lined up on the crank and the front cam, but the rear cam has somehow rotated about 60 degrees…I have been stuck on that issue for about 2hrs and now called it a night, any ideas?
@@335i101 You can move the camshaft with a breaker bar back to the position it needs to be in to line up the timing marks 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotiveThank you, I just had to finesse it. Got the project done today and had started it yesterday. Without this video I would have been very lost.
Thanks again, awesome video!!
@@335i101 Nice! You're good to go for another 100k 👊
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive It made it to 360,000 miles on original timing belt, hopefully it has another 100k in it! 👍🏼
@@335i101 Wow that's awesome! Let us know when you got 400k.
The car needs to be in neutral mode ?
@@garibardyguillen0101 The car can be in park 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive thanks for your prompt response I’m trying to do this myself.🤝🤝🤝
Impact on the crank bolt would be better
Why no one do 2006 mdx timing belt
Maybe it was a different style or engine size
it is NOT the impact wrench - you have to get the impact socket from lisle that is designed for this it will zip right iff first try
@@evyl0076 I agree having the right socket makes a difference. The bigger socket creates more of a dead blow than the thinner sockets I was using.
Just get a weighted 19mm socket brother
@@Fixter3000 I did another Honda recently and went ahead and purchased the thicker socket 👍
Next time use a Milwaukee or just crank it with breaker bar wedged to ground to break bolt loose
Usually the EarthQuake XT does the trick. This one was extra stubborn. A breaker bar did the trick 👍
When you’re routing the new belt, don’t turn the crank to make the marks line up…. You’re supposed to keep the bolt loose on the idler bearing (above and towards the front from the crank), which allows enough play to properly line up the marks without moving the crank or cams. Once the belt is routed and the marks are lined up, you can tighten the idler bearing… this will tighten the front section of belt, then you can mount the tensioner and pull the grenade pin.
Thanks for your comment. I believe how you explained it is how the manual explains it. That's important for a new belt without marks. If you mark your belt before removal and transfer the marks to the new belt then you can install the new belt a few different ways as long as the marks line up. I leave the crank where it is and move the cam clockwise one or two teeth. Once the belt is on I move it back. Either way works if you have the marks 👍