I just watched this again today. I haven’t had a stainless revolver until recently, but this video really helped!!! It was surprising how well it worked with how little pressure. Thanks For making this video. I appreciate it. My 629 has never looked better!!
Today I cleaned my .357 mag, and used Mothers mag and aluminum polish, and a microfiber towel, and it came off much easier than your pad and Hoppe's did. And it polished the finish, and no risk of scratching.
The scotchbrite will absolutely remove small amounts of metal, evidenced by the new scratches on the surface. These scratches also give a great place for future fouling to accumulate and grip onto forcing one to remove more metal to get into the small scratches where the fouling hides. Whether this metal removed will amount to a measurable increase in cylinder gap depends on how much you do it. I don't care much about removing the rings, but I'll occasionally use a brass brush to minimize it.
Thanks for this great idea. I have many stainless steel revolvers. I started using the pads you suggested and they work great. Easy to do. A little messy with the Hoppes but well worth the effort. Thanks again for a truly great idea.
I have been fighting this problem for years. You are the first one that gave an easy sure fired solution. Thank you Marshal. I really enjoy your channel. Keep those vids coming.
I used a nylon brush and patches with a pick and some Q-tips for the rest of my gun, but I was really worried about taking out that brass brush on stainless steel. Thank you for that quick answer to the last piece of my gun that was giving me trouble. Have a good one!
Thank you very much. I tried your technique, and it worked very well. It took a bit longer than I expected- I haven't spent that much time rubbing something out since I was 14 years old. Anyway, it worked, and I thank you again.
Well done! I like your method. I use a different method that also works. That is, I use Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish on a rag or sometimes with a toothbrush. It cleans the front the cylinder easily, quickly, and perfectly and it also very gently polishes the metal so it's less porous and, over time, it becomes even easier to clean.
Flitz metal polish works really well and there's no chance of leaving scratches on the finish. Takes a couple applications, but in the end it's spotless.
Mothers chrome polish cleans the burn rings on my revolvers like nothing else. It's messy and gets into the cylinder chambers, but I then use a bore brush and it also cleans the burn lines inside the cylinder too. Hose it all out with bore blaster and it's ready for light oil and storage. Makes my revolvers look new and unfired. It also is good on the built up carbon on the frame around the forcing cone/barrel.
Strikehold is the best cleaner/solvent/non-oil dry lubricant I've ever come across...and I have used everything. I threw everything else away and replaced all with just Strikehold. They sell to military and internationally.
Great tip... that I watched while I was cleaning the cylinder of a model 60-15 with Cape Cod polishing cloths. They worked but WOW that took a lot of scrubbing. Gun looks good as new and has a "pleasant vanilla fragrance" now. LOL
Now, THAT's a new one! This is bound to be an advertising campaign eventually: "Leaves guns smelling fresh!"! Something like Ballistol but also like Febreez, you know? Or Ballistol could just come in flavors?
I recently shot some dirty Armscor cowboy ammo in my matte finish .44 mag. it smoked and leaded my ports and cylinder! I tried all the solvents -no go ! -Someone said to try a childs pink eraser! Wow simple and it works great with little effort !You can buy 6 for $1.50 ! Thanks to whomever said that! I looked but could not find the comment to thank them !!
I knocked off some dullness on my 686 cylinder front with Mothers mag wheel polish and the burn marks come right off with a rag and CLP. Of course, an earlier video of yours inspired me to polish the entire revolver as well.
Greetings Marshall - i enjoy your videos. i have found that using stainless steel and aluminum cleaner - the same stuff i use to clean my weber stainless steel outdoor grill - works great and is easy to use to remove the burn ring on my stainless .357 ruger sp-101. just apply it with a paper towel or cloth, q-tips for the chambers, and wipe it off. burn ring and burn residue gone.
i use scotchbrite pads on my glass top stove all the time to clean it and never scratches it...make sure it says non scratch on the package when you buy it
@opisex Yes, I do clean my bore and I do refinish my gun if it gets scratched. If you clean your gun after each use it is easy to keep it clean. It is when you let it build up that it becomes difficult.
ANYONE WHO WATCHES THIS AND SEES MY REPLY! The BC lead removal cloth is simply AMAZING! I used it on a 1963 Colt Python barrel that looked ABYSMAL! I've never seen a barrel so full of lead and the range I worked at in the '90s didn't always clean the rental guns as the should but THIS THING WAS HORRENDOUS! ( I have before and after pics ) I'm glad I too the advice of my LGS and didn't send it back to the seller. Took TWO of the cloths to get it clean enough to where it shines like a mirror. But here ya have it! I swear by the stuff for lead removal. I use Mother's Magnesium Polish as well, for lead, but the BC cloth is awesome. :)
This was genius! Worked flawlessly. To clean have the cylinder I used about a dozen Kleen Bore pre-soaked mini lead wipes. Then I switched to the Scotch Brite pad for the other half. Boom. It was great! So reusable and cheaper.
I've watched this channel for a long while, but just today found this vid. Awesome tip, I've scrubbed at those stains in my Ruger GP 100 for a month off and on using my regular solvent and brush, and they're finally gone.
Thanks for the tip. I have used a brass gun cleaning brush with hoppes #9 and it works pretty good on my Redhawk. The scotchbrite pad looks like it does a better job tho and will try that next time. Also on my blued revolvers I take the cylinder off the gun and soak it with the front end down in a small jar with solvent in it. Breaks most of it loose but its pretty hard to see anyway if the bluing is in good shape.
A toothbrush style BRASS brush with Hoppe's #9 will take those right off on a stainless or blued revolver, and a brass brush is LESS abrasive than your Scotchbrite pad. A brass brush absolutely will not harm a steel revolver, its too soft, while a Scotchbrite pad is abrasive to stainless steel, it will remove a tiny bit of metal, a brass brush won't do that.
TheYankeeMarshal I've done it a bunch of times with my duty revolver, I cleaned the entire cylinder face in about the same time it took to do that small space in the video, much faster, and no risk of damage from the embedded abrasives in the Scotchbrite pad. I sold 3M products at the wholesale level after I retired from law enforcement, I know how aggressive those pads are, a Scotchbrite pad will abrade stainless steel, they are quite aggressive.
Thank you a lot sir. But in my place (Italy) we don't have this kind of cleaner. To remove the stubborn burn marks, I use "SMAC brillacciaio" that is a steel's stain remover, and works greatly. Have a nice day. Dave.
The M-Pro 7 cleaner works better than Hoppes on my 686. In fact, I was amazed how well it worked. I used to get a build-up of crud around the forcing cone from shooting lead wadcutters and semi-wadcutters that was difficult to remove but the M-Pro 7 just seems to melt it away.
I tried this on my S&W 686 using the basic green Scotch-Brite pad and Hoppe's - worked great! I went over it a second time with Butch's Bore Shine (and on the forcing cone) - the gun looks the best it has since it was new! Took all of about ten minutes - great suggestion!
Thank you for the video. Put a single action six shooter of mine away for an outing and forgot to clean it. it sat for a little while and i pulled it from the my safe to head to the range. Inspected and Saw my cylinder like you show and was like sh*t!!! tried cleaning but to no avail. used your method and it's like new! Thought my pistol was done for. Thank you....
I was very happy cleaning my 642 with one of those new fangled Tipton "Power Clean" electric brushes. I bought it to clean my Remington 11-87 gas system (it was totally worth the $40 for this job alone). But it sure made quick work of the marks on the 642. Yes, I use some Hoppes on it as well.
Me too. I put a dab of Flitz on end of finger. Stuff wipes right off like magic. No pads or scrubbing needed, definitely the way to go. Not sure how it would affect a blued finish.
I suspect the white no scratch pads are the way to go. Try a dampened white pad with a little diatomaceous earth. The pad and the de should be softer than the ss. You can check for scratching on a smooth surface on the gun.
I had this trouble for decades. Got some JB bore cleaning compound and an old toothbrush and it cleans the blast-rings like magic!! If you are too impatient, (like me) lightly use a brass brush instead of a toothbrush. Makes the gun look new again. Don't know how the stuff works on a bore. Never tried it there...
Nice video! I usually use flitz and a dremel buffer which works wonders but requires a very deep clean in order to remove all of the flitz particulates. I love taking my revolvers apart, but there's a limit to what I'm willing to do :p
@fire1777 I would not recommend a dremel with anything abrasive. I have seen some pretty messed up cylinders from doing that.The cylinder face can start to look wavey.
Very nice. the 686 I bought the other day was a rental gun at the gun store I got it from and the front of the cylinder is basically black so I'm going to get scrubbin. Great video as always YM!
i would recomend you look at the charts for the different types of scotch brite. there are different types for different metals, plastics ect. it could possibly leave microscopic scratchs that will make it harder to remove carbon deposits later. and if all else fails you can use some polish to fix the small scratchs. the hopps would aid in lunbricant to prevent alot of damage.
Thanks for the vid upload I fire lead bullets mostly in my revolver and it gets really dirty. I tried this method with the scotch pad, I used gun scrubber as alternative to Hoppes 9. Burn rings came right off, took about 5 minutes. Cylinder look like new. Again thanks.
Flitz metal polish and a extra-fine brass brush works quire well and removes no metal at all. Makes it look like the gun has never been fired. At least that is my experience as a machinist.
believe it or not but i do very well with just a simple damp paper towel on my gp100 used it in a pinch one day and figured hell its stainless water won't hurt it a bit, and it works pretty good. odd thing is the forcing cone seems to come clean and the frame around it far easier than the cylinder
Go with Kleen Bore, light years ahead of anything and not abrasive. I break the entire gun down after any rounds fired and fully clean and re-lubricate. In so doing this allows the entire cylinder assembly to be taken apart and with the Kleen Bore cloth cut into small sections, with complete rubbing the front end comes out better than new. Phenomenal product. I use Hoppes for the barrel, as well Kleen Bore. The combination is exceptional.
Thank ya Yank! Ya showed me something new!! I asked my gun shop if there was anyhting I could do to take those ugly burn marks off the cylinder as I had tried relentlessly with the brush and oil but to no avail. They said there was no way to take that off and the rings would stay that color...... FOREVER!!! I did not believe him so I went on a search and have tried rubbin the heck out of it. I gots the Hoppes! So I cannot wait to go home and clean itl I will do a VR fer that
I used some jewelry tarnish remover (it's a paste) with a soft rag and it took all the burn rings off completely. there are probably many different methods, this one worked well on stainless. by the way I used hoppe's to clean everything first.
He removed the cylinder & used steel wool on the face. I thought same thing about stray fibers, my next thoughts were compressed air & bronze wool. I've never seen such a thing as synthetic steel wool myself. Scotchbrite has silicon carbide or aluminum oxide grit mixed in the plastic, grit varies with pad color. The pad with which I ruined glass in 1979 was brown, and I've been very careful with Scotchbrite ever since. I have some that is dark green; I would not use it on my gun unless rusty.
@NormNip Ruger uses your basic 400 family of stainless steel. It is nothing especially hard. You could shoot your gun every day and clean it in this manner for 20 years before seeing a noticeable loss of surface material. A scotchbrite pad is not hard enough to damage the surface.
I totally agree with you. I take the burns off all my revolvers as well. I hate seeing burn marks on Stainless, bright Stainless and nickel revolvers. In addition that Magnum Carry is a real beauty sir.
I have a K22 Masterpiece that has ZERO end shake on the cylinder because I have shot it so much that the cylinder front face is all leaded up. Occasionally I have to clean it off but those lead Eley Match bullets make a mess. But man is that an accurate gun. Thanks for loving revolvers Yankee M.
I bought an air eraser from ebay. Its an airbrush-sized mediablaster. I used baking soda to clean the burn rings from the cylinder and the crud around the forcing cone. it works a charm. I used it on a stainless S&W 686, dont know if it will hurt bluing. Also good for removing rust and other debris.
Now that's informative. My .22 Taurus refuses to clean up... Maybe because the ANCIENT .22 Shorts I found in the safe exploded in the cylinder burning the barrel, front cylinder, back cylinder, and around the firing pin. They were so weak I didn't even know the casings were splitting till I felt something hit my cheek 4 rounds into it. I was devastated, my favorite tin can shooter. Can't wait to buy some Hops 9 tomorrow and try it out!
When I clean mine, just soak the cylinder face with Hoppes and set it aside face up while I clean the rest of the gun. I also use ultra fine scothbrite pad and VERY gently scrub. Takes literally 2 minutes as opposed to about 10 minutes if you don't presoak.
Yep. It worked. It took a lot of elbow grease and a fair amount of time. Flitz and a rag worked a lot faster than the Hoppes and Scotch Brite, but I think that it changed the finish on the front of the cylinder from a satin or brushed finish to a highly polished finish. I'll probably stick with the Hoppes/Scotch Brite.
There are less abrasive pads then Scothbrite pads now. Mostly they are marketed to clean non-stick pans which cannot have Scotchbrite used on them. I wonder if they would be better in the sense you could put more pressure on them.
took me about 10 minutes to get the burn marks off my stainless gp100. used q tip and mothers mag & aluminum polish. in fact i did whole gun with it. made stainless look very much like nickle plate..might take a little longer if you never polished out burn marks before.
A metal polish like the ones used to polish tarnished brass and a cotton tshirt works. Flitz or semi chrome work well. I use it on my blued Colt detective special and it doesn’t seem to remove the bluing.
I'm all for cleaning a revolver. However, I'm not a fan of cleaning the cylinder head. The more you can close the gap between the cylinder and the barrel, the more oomph you will get from your cartridges. Obviously, if it has built up so much as to cause contact...brush/clean a bit off, but just a bit.
On the cylinder gap, anything under 0.010" is fine. I believe that's what S&W's tolerances are. 0.003-0.005" seems to be the optimal distance, thought if the gun shoots well, it really doesn't matter. Your not going to get that much more oomph from a slightly tighter cylinder gap.
going from 0.000" gap to a 0.004" takes a good bit of velocity out of a .357. but 0.004" to 0.006" drops in the single digits which is dismissible as a temperature shift. more than about 0.010" starts to drop worse. 0.004-0.006" is a good gap.
I used a lighter grit scotch bright pad, my friends asked if my .44 was brad new. I also used a little powder solvent and a tooth brush, takes longer but it works too. You can can use the tooth brush as many times as you want too.
Hoppes can be hard on nickel finishes. I would recommend using a micro fiber cloth and some mothers mag and alum polish. takes burn rings right off. follow with a coat of renaissance wax to protect your finish..
The lead-away cloths do work, but even better is Eagle One's Never-Dull cotton wadding. Available at any auto-parts store. I've used both, the the Never-Dull is superior. Then use a brass toothbrush. This only takes a few minutes. But - use only on stainless-steel. It will remove bluing.
Thanks, I was wondering that. He said it won't take off metal, but we can see a thousand scores on the front of the cylinder. Unless stainless steel revolvers come like that, textured on the front.
i found on stainless, a good metal/chrome polish and a cotton swab cut from old t-shirts will do awesome and no risk of marring the metal or scoring. you have to make sure your firearm is stainless and not nickel finish.
My fingers thank you for this video. Up til now I've been using a rag and elbow grease transferred through my fingers. They don't appreciate that kind if abuse very much.
The Lead Away Cleaning Cloth is well worth the few dollars it costs. Wipes the cylinder clean with very little effort and time. Just used it on my 686p yesterday and had it done within 5 minutes.
I started using surgical gloves when using any petrol based solvent.Stuff gets in my bloodstream if I don't and gives me a bad headache.The vapors can do it to but I found not nearly as bad when using gloves
I have been using a brass brush and man it's a pain! They fall apart and get those little brass strands everywhere. Definitely gotta try this! Thanks for the tip, TYM! =)
put your Hoppes #9 in a spray bottle and spray your pad or patch. That way you are not dipping your dirty pad in your clean bottle of solvent.
@charleen heath
Good idea, thanks for the tip!!!!
New patch each time ALWAYS wiping off the Rod AND if your hands Get Dirty Wash them or pass on the Dirt!😎
Best thing to use is a typewriter eraser or a standard pencil eraser. Used that method for over 15 years carrying a revolver.
thanks a lot. pensil eraser works perfectly
I'll try that for a dollar!!!!!!
I like how you mentioned the typewriter first as if it’s more accessible than a pencil
You mean the blue half of the pink and blue eraser?
@@Antoninorosetta lol robo cop
I just watched this again today. I haven’t had a stainless revolver until recently, but this video really helped!!! It was surprising how well it worked with how little pressure. Thanks For making this video. I appreciate it. My 629 has never looked better!!
Today I cleaned my .357 mag, and used Mothers mag and aluminum polish, and a microfiber towel, and it came off much easier than your pad and Hoppe's did. And it polished the finish, and no risk of scratching.
The scotchbrite will absolutely remove small amounts of metal, evidenced by the new scratches on the surface. These scratches also give a great place for future fouling to accumulate and grip onto forcing one to remove more metal to get into the small scratches where the fouling hides. Whether this metal removed will amount to a measurable increase in cylinder gap depends on how much you do it. I don't care much about removing the rings, but I'll occasionally use a brass brush to minimize it.
Thanks for this great idea. I have many stainless steel revolvers. I started using the pads you suggested and they work great. Easy to do. A little messy with the Hoppes but well worth the effort. Thanks again for a truly great idea.
I have been fighting this problem for years. You are the first one that gave an easy sure fired solution. Thank you Marshal. I really enjoy your channel. Keep those vids coming.
Good tip. Don't think of that. What also works is Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish.
Thats what I use. Works better than anything I've used
Mother's is what I always use.
I used a nylon brush and patches with a pick and some Q-tips for the rest of my gun, but I was really worried about taking out that brass brush on stainless steel. Thank you for that quick answer to the last piece of my gun that was giving me trouble. Have a good one!
Thank you very much. I tried your technique, and it worked very well. It took a bit longer than I expected- I haven't spent that much time rubbing something out since I was 14 years old. Anyway, it worked, and I thank you again.
Had been trying everything on my 686,, let it soak a few hours in hoppes and used a scotch brite, it came right off. Thanks for the tip.
but with very little pressure,
Pre-soaking sounds like a very good idea! Maybe an ultrasonic cleaner as well?
Well done! I like your method. I use a different method that also works. That is, I use Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish on a rag or sometimes with a toothbrush. It cleans the front the cylinder easily, quickly, and perfectly and it also very gently polishes the metal so it's less porous and, over time, it becomes even easier to clean.
Exactly what I do. 👍🏼
Very good work, thanks from Brazil.
One of the countries with the greatest restrictions on guns and the highest rates of urban violence.
Flitz metal polish works really well and there's no chance of leaving scratches on the finish. Takes a couple applications, but in the end it's spotless.
Mothers chrome polish cleans the burn rings on my revolvers like nothing else. It's messy and gets into the cylinder chambers, but I then use a bore brush and it also cleans the burn lines inside the cylinder too. Hose it all out with bore blaster and it's ready for light oil and storage. Makes my revolvers look new and unfired. It also is good on the built up carbon on the frame around the forcing cone/barrel.
Strikehold is the best cleaner/solvent/non-oil dry lubricant I've ever come across...and I have used everything. I threw everything else away and replaced all with just Strikehold. They sell to military and internationally.
Great tip... that I watched while I was cleaning the cylinder of a model 60-15 with
Cape Cod polishing cloths. They worked but WOW that took a lot of scrubbing. Gun looks good as new and has a "pleasant vanilla fragrance" now. LOL
Now, THAT's a new one! This is bound to be an advertising campaign eventually: "Leaves guns smelling fresh!"! Something like Ballistol but also like Febreez, you know? Or Ballistol could just come in flavors?
What about immersion cleaning in an ultrasonic cleaner? Has anyone tried that?
I recently shot some dirty Armscor cowboy ammo in my matte finish .44 mag. it smoked and leaded my ports and cylinder! I tried all the solvents -no go ! -Someone said to try a childs pink eraser! Wow simple and it works great with little effort !You can buy 6 for $1.50 !
Thanks to whomever said that! I looked but could not find the comment to thank them !!
Oh my goodness thank you so much!
I knocked off some dullness on my 686 cylinder front with Mothers mag wheel polish and the burn marks come right off with a rag and CLP. Of course, an earlier video of yours inspired me to polish the entire revolver as well.
Greetings Marshall - i enjoy your videos. i have found that using stainless steel and aluminum cleaner - the same stuff i use to clean my weber stainless steel outdoor grill - works great and is easy to use to remove the burn ring on my stainless .357 ruger sp-101. just apply it with a paper towel or cloth, q-tips for the chambers, and wipe it off. burn ring and burn residue gone.
i use scotchbrite pads on my glass top stove all the time to clean it and never scratches it...make sure it says non scratch on the package when you buy it
@opisex Yes, I do clean my bore and I do refinish my gun if it gets scratched. If you clean your gun after each use it is easy to keep it clean. It is when you let it build up that it becomes difficult.
Birchwood Casey lead removal cloths work great!
michael hayes Absolutely does! And little to no scrubbing.
It sure does. Just make sure you wear gloves when using it.
ANYONE WHO WATCHES THIS AND SEES MY REPLY! The BC lead removal cloth is simply AMAZING! I used it on a 1963 Colt Python barrel that looked ABYSMAL! I've never seen a barrel so full of lead and the range I worked at in the '90s didn't always clean the rental guns as the should but THIS THING WAS HORRENDOUS! ( I have before and after pics )
I'm glad I too the advice of my LGS and didn't send it back to the seller.
Took TWO of the cloths to get it clean enough to where it shines like a mirror.
But here ya have it! I swear by the stuff for lead removal. I use Mother's Magnesium Polish as well, for lead, but the BC cloth is awesome.
:)
Birchwood casey makes these lead remover patches that rub burn rings right off with no effort.
I tried those. Literally did nothing
@@tuco86x you got to just keep working at it. Apply some good pressure and rub as your rotating the cylinder
Synthetic steel wool is like a finer grain of scotch bright pad. It is usually grey. It is the way to go.
I just used fine steel wool and lcp to remove light rust from an old 60s .22 that was given to me. It worked great and didn't hurt the finish at all.
Good ole' Hoppe's number 9. The best cologne for men. Women can smell like roses or whatever but men should smell like Hoppe's number 9.
😂imma try that
Correct but don’t drink and drive with it and it does NOT shrink hemorrhoids . 🤠😵
This was genius! Worked flawlessly.
To clean have the cylinder I used about a dozen Kleen Bore pre-soaked mini lead wipes.
Then I switched to the Scotch Brite pad for the other half. Boom. It was great! So reusable and cheaper.
I've watched this channel for a long while, but just today found this vid. Awesome tip, I've scrubbed at those stains in my Ruger GP 100 for a month off and on using my regular solvent and brush, and they're finally gone.
Thanks for the tip. I have used a brass gun cleaning brush with hoppes #9 and it works pretty good on my Redhawk. The scotchbrite pad looks like it does a better job tho and will try that next time. Also on my blued revolvers I take the cylinder off the gun and soak it with the front end down in a small jar with solvent in it. Breaks most of it loose but its pretty hard to see anyway if the bluing is in good shape.
A toothbrush style BRASS brush with Hoppe's #9 will take those right off on a stainless or blued revolver, and a brass brush is LESS abrasive than your Scotchbrite pad. A brass brush absolutely will not harm a steel revolver, its too soft, while a Scotchbrite pad is abrasive to stainless steel, it will remove a tiny bit of metal, a brass brush won't do that.
Wrong...scrubbing with the far spaced bristles of a brass brush cause you to need to make five or six passes for every one pass with a pad or cloth.
TheYankeeMarshal
I've done it a bunch of times with my duty revolver, I cleaned the entire cylinder face in about the same time it took to do that small space in the video, much faster, and no risk of damage from the embedded abrasives in the Scotchbrite pad. I sold 3M products at the wholesale level after I retired from law enforcement, I know how aggressive those pads are, a Scotchbrite pad will abrade stainless steel, they are quite aggressive.
Phish No whats right bristle density?
G56AG NJ
Glad to know I was doing it right the whole time. Thanks, G56AG.
Nice. Thanks! My GP100 has been afflicted now with those same burn marks for nearly 30 years. Going to be shiny new looking very soon.
Great helpful info. Im one of those guys showing off my collection with a dirty revolver because i couldnt get off burn marks. Good stuff!!! Thx
Thank you a lot sir. But in my place (Italy) we don't have this kind of cleaner. To remove the stubborn burn marks, I use "SMAC brillacciaio" that is a steel's stain remover, and works greatly.
Have a nice day.
Dave.
The M-Pro 7 cleaner works better than Hoppes on my 686. In fact, I was amazed how well it worked. I used to get a build-up of crud around the forcing cone from shooting lead wadcutters and semi-wadcutters that was difficult to remove but the M-Pro 7 just seems to melt it away.
wow! Thanks YM. I didn't think it looked "that bad" before cleaning. What a surprising difference. I can't wait to see how good mine will look now.
I tried this on my S&W 686 using the basic green Scotch-Brite pad and Hoppe's - worked great! I went over it a second time with Butch's Bore Shine (and on the forcing cone) - the gun looks the best it has since it was new! Took all of about ten minutes - great suggestion!
Thank you. A scotch brite pad, or what was called a green wheenie in the Navy.Excellent
Thank you for the video. Put a single action six shooter of mine away for an outing and forgot to clean it. it sat for a little while and i pulled it from the my safe to head to the range. Inspected and Saw my cylinder like you show and was like sh*t!!! tried cleaning but to no avail. used your method and it's like new! Thought my pistol was done for. Thank you....
I was very happy cleaning my 642 with one of those new fangled Tipton "Power Clean" electric brushes. I bought it to clean my Remington 11-87 gas system (it was totally worth the $40 for this job alone). But it sure made quick work of the marks on the 642. Yes, I use some Hoppes on it as well.
Might have to try some. Although I clean my guns so often that they never get very dirty.
Me too.
I put a dab of Flitz on end of finger. Stuff wipes right off like magic. No pads or scrubbing needed, definitely the way to go.
Not sure how it would affect a blued finish.
those scotchbrite pads are acually more abrasive than a brass brush
Not the No scratch Ones
@@captainamericaamerica8090 you are right but they are no scratch, good luck with than unless you are using some abrasive compound
I suspect the white no scratch pads are the way to go. Try a dampened white pad with a little diatomaceous earth. The pad and the de should be softer than the ss. You can check for scratching on a smooth surface on the gun.
Great tip!
My S&W 686P is immaculate other than the cylinder face.
Now it too will shine.
Thank you!
Excellent video I clean a 629 Smith & Wesson 44 Magnum and it turned out beautiful
@wmd44110 brass brushes do the job, but I have found that over time they leave a heavy brushed look to even satin finishes.
Great VIDEO YANKEE!!!
I just got a S&W 60 with the
Cylinder Burn marks. Hoppe’s is the BEST.
I had this trouble for decades. Got some JB bore cleaning compound and an old toothbrush and it cleans the blast-rings like magic!! If you are too impatient, (like me) lightly use a brass brush instead of a toothbrush. Makes the gun look new again. Don't know how the stuff works on a bore. Never tried it there...
Right on !
I been usin hppes and a rag, just puttin in the time. This is way better. Thanks bro !!!!
I hope it is synthetic. Real steel wool can embed fibers into the steel and cause pitting issues.
Nice video! I usually use flitz and a dremel buffer which works wonders but requires a very deep clean in order to remove all of the flitz particulates. I love taking my revolvers apart, but there's a limit to what I'm willing to do :p
@fire1777 I would not recommend a dremel with anything abrasive. I have seen some pretty messed up cylinders from doing that.The cylinder face can start to look wavey.
Thanks for the video. I tried with a toothbrush and wire brush could tell a difference but this method made it as if it never had the burns.
Very nice. the 686 I bought the other day was a rental gun at the gun store I got it from and the front of the cylinder is basically black so I'm going to get scrubbin. Great video as always YM!
i would recomend you look at the charts for the different types of scotch brite. there are different types for different metals, plastics ect. it could possibly leave microscopic scratchs that will make it harder to remove carbon deposits later. and if all else fails you can use some polish to fix the small scratchs. the hopps would aid in lunbricant to prevent alot of damage.
Thanks for the vid upload
I fire lead bullets mostly in my revolver and it gets really dirty. I tried this method with the scotch pad, I used gun scrubber as alternative to Hoppes 9. Burn rings came right off, took about 5 minutes. Cylinder look like new.
Again thanks.
Flitz metal polish and a extra-fine brass brush works quire well and removes no metal at all. Makes it look like the gun has never been fired. At least that is my experience as a machinist.
Flitz is my go to for getting the burn marks off...I just use a rag...
That’s how I do it,too.
believe it or not but i do very well with just a simple damp paper towel on my gp100
used it in a pinch one day and figured hell its stainless water won't hurt it a bit, and it works pretty good. odd thing is the forcing cone seems to come clean and the frame around it far easier than the cylinder
Go with Kleen Bore, light years ahead of anything and not abrasive. I break the entire gun down after any rounds fired and fully clean and re-lubricate. In so doing this allows the entire cylinder assembly to be taken apart and with the Kleen Bore cloth cut into small sections, with complete rubbing the front end comes out better than new. Phenomenal product.
I use Hoppes for the barrel, as well Kleen Bore. The combination is exceptional.
For less scratching use a Scotch-Brite pad that has been used to clean pots/pans like dish washing, it'll still work fine but be less abrasive.
Gracias! Worked like magic! was wondering how I was gonna get those burn rings off! Sweet thnx from my SW 686 plus!
Thank ya Yank! Ya showed me something new!! I asked my gun shop if there was anyhting I could do to take those ugly burn marks off the cylinder as I had tried relentlessly with the brush and oil but to no avail. They said there was no way to take that off and the rings would stay that color...... FOREVER!!! I did not believe him so I went on a search and have tried rubbin the heck out of it. I gots the Hoppes! So I cannot wait to go home and clean itl I will do a VR fer that
I appreciate your video and the easy approach you use, thanks! It worked well...thank you!
I used some jewelry tarnish remover (it's a paste) with a soft rag and it took all the burn rings off completely. there are probably many different methods, this one worked well on stainless. by the way I used hoppe's to clean everything first.
I follow the scotch pad with a fine steel wool. It cleans areas where the the scotch pad is a little too coarse to reach.
He removed the cylinder & used steel wool on the face. I thought same thing about stray fibers, my next thoughts were compressed air & bronze wool. I've never seen such a thing as synthetic steel wool myself. Scotchbrite has silicon carbide or aluminum oxide grit mixed in the plastic, grit varies with pad color. The pad with which I ruined glass in 1979 was brown, and I've been very careful with Scotchbrite ever since. I have some that is dark green; I would not use it on my gun unless rusty.
@NormNip Ruger uses your basic 400 family of stainless steel. It is nothing especially hard. You could shoot your gun every day and clean it in this manner for 20 years before seeing a noticeable loss of surface material. A scotchbrite pad is not hard enough to damage the surface.
Yea i just got all that off on my new 686 with a lead cleaning cloth! I also checked out your scratch removal vids! Good stuff!
@x8541 You should use synthetic steel wool. Using real steel wool can cause pitting and surface rust.
I totally agree with you. I take the burns off all my revolvers as well. I hate seeing burn marks on Stainless, bright Stainless and nickel revolvers. In addition that Magnum Carry is a real beauty sir.
I have a K22 Masterpiece that has ZERO end shake on the cylinder because I have shot it so much that the cylinder front face is all leaded up. Occasionally I have to clean it off but those lead Eley Match bullets make a mess.
But man is that an accurate gun.
Thanks for loving revolvers Yankee M.
Pretty much any polishing compound will work...but the pads are a little easier.
Flitz and a beater T-shirt is ALL you need.
I’ve been using metal polish or compound with a cotton rag for years and it works perfect!
I bought an air eraser from ebay. Its an airbrush-sized mediablaster. I used baking soda to clean the burn rings from the cylinder and the crud around the forcing cone. it works a charm. I used it on a stainless S&W 686, dont know if it will hurt bluing.
Also good for removing rust and other debris.
Now that's informative. My .22 Taurus refuses to clean up... Maybe because the ANCIENT .22 Shorts I found in the safe exploded in the cylinder burning the barrel, front cylinder, back cylinder, and around the firing pin. They were so weak I didn't even know the casings were splitting till I felt something hit my cheek 4 rounds into it. I was devastated, my favorite tin can shooter. Can't wait to buy some Hops 9 tomorrow and try it out!
I used a brass brush and Hoppes on a blued cylinder once. The brass transferred and made the cylinder look kinda bronze color.
Never even heard of that product before. Will look for it.
Thank you, may be your best video, I've been fighting that for awhile. Gun cleaning time.
Wow ....you just save me a trip to the gun store....Thank You...👍
When I clean mine, just soak the cylinder face with Hoppes and set it aside face up while I clean the rest of the gun.
I also use ultra fine scothbrite pad and VERY gently scrub. Takes literally 2 minutes as opposed to about 10 minutes if you don't presoak.
Sweeeet n easy. I always wanted an alternative to lead away! Thx for posting!
Yep. It worked. It took a lot of elbow grease and a fair amount of time.
Flitz and a rag worked a lot faster than the Hoppes and Scotch Brite, but I think that it changed the finish on the front of the cylinder from a satin or brushed finish to a highly polished finish. I'll probably stick with the Hoppes/Scotch Brite.
There are less abrasive pads then Scothbrite pads now. Mostly they are marketed to clean non-stick pans which cannot have Scotchbrite used on them. I wonder if they would be better in the sense you could put more pressure on them.
I find the scotchbright pad cleans more evenly with less work.
I use automotive chrome cleaner followed by a normal bore cleaner and oil to remove any residue.Works really well.
Had to resort to a steel bristle brush on an old 686 that hadn't been cleaned in years. Looks beautiful now.
took me about 10 minutes to get the burn marks off my stainless gp100. used q tip and mothers mag & aluminum polish. in fact i did whole gun with it. made stainless look very much like nickle plate..might take a little longer if you never polished out burn marks before.
Hoppe's is the stuff. Its what I was taught to clean with and still use it. I think I've had the same jar for almost 5 years now. Lasts forever.
A metal polish like the ones used to polish tarnished brass and a cotton tshirt works. Flitz or semi chrome work well. I use it on my blued Colt detective special and it doesn’t seem to remove the bluing.
I'm all for cleaning a revolver.
However, I'm not a fan of cleaning the cylinder head.
The more you can close the gap between the cylinder and the barrel, the more oomph you will get from your cartridges.
Obviously, if it has built up so much as to cause contact...brush/clean a bit off, but just a bit.
On the cylinder gap, anything under 0.010" is fine. I believe that's what S&W's tolerances are. 0.003-0.005" seems to be the optimal distance, thought if the gun shoots well, it really doesn't matter. Your not going to get that much more oomph from a slightly tighter cylinder gap.
going from 0.000" gap to a 0.004" takes a good bit of velocity out of a .357. but 0.004" to 0.006" drops in the single digits which is dismissible as a temperature shift. more than about 0.010" starts to drop worse. 0.004-0.006" is a good gap.
I used a lighter grit scotch bright pad, my friends asked if my .44 was brad new. I also used a little powder solvent and a tooth brush, takes longer but it works too. You can can use the tooth brush as many times as you want too.
Hoppes can be hard on nickel finishes. I would recommend using a micro fiber cloth and some mothers mag and alum polish. takes burn rings right off. follow with a coat of renaissance wax to protect your finish..
The lead-away cloths do work, but even better is Eagle One's Never-Dull cotton wadding. Available at any auto-parts store. I've used both, the the Never-Dull is superior. Then use a brass toothbrush. This only takes a few minutes. But - use only on stainless-steel. It will remove bluing.
Thanks, I was wondering that. He said it won't take off metal, but we can see a thousand scores on the front of the cylinder. Unless stainless steel revolvers come like that, textured on the front.
i found on stainless, a good metal/chrome polish and a cotton swab cut from old t-shirts will do awesome and no risk of marring the metal or scoring. you have to make sure your firearm is stainless and not nickel finish.
Well dang it! It’s been driving me nuts on my Vaquero! Now I can fix it!
Thanks for the tip!
My fingers thank you for this video. Up til now I've been using a rag and elbow grease transferred through my fingers. They don't appreciate that kind if abuse very much.
The Lead Away Cleaning Cloth is well worth the few dollars it costs. Wipes the cylinder clean with very little effort and time. Just used it on my 686p yesterday and had it done within 5 minutes.
I started using surgical gloves when using any petrol based solvent.Stuff gets in my bloodstream if I don't and gives me a bad headache.The vapors can do it to but I found not nearly as bad when using gloves
I have been using a brass brush and man it's a pain! They fall apart and get those little brass strands everywhere. Definitely gotta try this! Thanks for the tip, TYM! =)