Thanks dude I was installing the lift kit and found a pin laying on my bench now I know where it goes even though its driving it won't for long without that pin.. 🍻
Did this fix te issue? I just lost the pin... The o-ring was still in place so i replaced the pin with a small piece of iron wire. I think the pin was a bit thicker but it seems to work just fine for the moment. Do you think that it will cause any problems so I should order te proper replacement part?
I haven't had a pin pop out since doing this. I'm thinking your fix should be ok for now. There may just be a little extra play in the driveshaft since the wire you're using is smaller than the pin. I would say run it as is plus add shrink tube then wait for a driveshaft upgrade to be available. The after market for these is getting bigger everyday.
I had the exact same issue. I think the plastic yoke is flexing and allowing the pin to be pulled out by the inner shaft that's why the oring was un bothered. I'm gonna try metal shafts a small amount of thread lock on the ends of the pins and heat shrink and see how long it holds up.
So far I've had no issues since doing the shrink tube over the o-ring. I'm holding off on metal driveshafts to see what the aftermarket does with them.
@@nickrriffs that's why I'm holding off. Injora just released brass diff covers and they are half the price of the Traxxas sets. I can imagine that will be the case for most of the aftermarket parts that come out.
That would work as well. The only down side I see is it's permanent. If you ever needed to replace the pin or just part of the driveshaft you couldn't and would have to replace the entire unit. With the shrink tube you could still remove the o-ring. I just figured it would keep a nice tight seal with it still there. Plus it can be cut off if needed. It also doesn't take 24hr+ to cure.
@@grizzlyworksrc With these drive shafts they would break and wear out and I you can just buy a whole new set. They’re so cheap you can just replace them every 6 months or so.I did mention the shrink wrap idea to another person who had posted a video last week about this issue.With a dab of shoe goo over the pin you can also pull it off if needed. Small flat head screw driver would do the trick.
I've heard a few people have gotten thicker/tighter orings. I'm not sure on the size though. There are also a few companies with aftermarket driveshafts now. They all seem to be a better design.
@@grizzlyworksrc thanks for response. I used PTFE THREAD SEAL TAPE AND COVERD THE O RINGS IN THE CENTER OF THE DRIVE SHAFT. I GUESS I SHOULD DO ALL OF THEM. CAN I ALSO USE THREAD LOCK ON THEM TOO. EVEN MAYBE A SILICON RUBBER GLUE. ILL KEEP IN MIND THE AFTER MARKET driveshafts too. Thanks
@@ironj100Thread lock won't help as there are no threads on the pins. They are just blank pins that hold the joint together. Thread locker would most likely cause issues with movement in the joint. I would absolutely recomend doing something to all of them though. I had an oring pop off of my Defender as well and it's only a trail rig. No crawling at all for it. Since doing the shrink tube I haven't had any issues with the Bronco and it's been beat on quite a bit.
@@grizzlyworksrc NOT GOING TO USE THE THREAD LOCK WAS JUST WONDERING. HEY THANKS FOR THE INPUT. ITS REALLY ANNOYING THE TRX4 M HAS THIS PROBLEM. How Hard are the After market DriveShaft to install. So far I have PTFE Thread Tap covering the O RINGS ON THE DRIVE SHAFT. THANK FOR THE FEED BACK
Thanks dude I was installing the lift kit and found a pin laying on my bench now I know where it goes even though its driving it won't for long without that pin.. 🍻
Great video I appreciate it! I was like what the heck just happened! Back up and running
Glad it helped you out.
Did this fix te issue? I just lost the pin... The o-ring was still in place so i replaced the pin with a small piece of iron wire. I think the pin was a bit thicker but it seems to work just fine for the moment. Do you think that it will cause any problems so I should order te proper replacement part?
I haven't had a pin pop out since doing this. I'm thinking your fix should be ok for now. There may just be a little extra play in the driveshaft since the wire you're using is smaller than the pin. I would say run it as is plus add shrink tube then wait for a driveshaft upgrade to be available. The after market for these is getting bigger everyday.
@@grizzlyworksrc Thanks for the reply. I will try the heat shrink then
I had the exact same issue. I think the plastic yoke is flexing and allowing the pin to be pulled out by the inner shaft that's why the oring was un bothered. I'm gonna try metal shafts a small amount of thread lock on the ends of the pins and heat shrink and see how long it holds up.
So far I've had no issues since doing the shrink tube over the o-ring. I'm holding off on metal driveshafts to see what the aftermarket does with them.
@Grizzly Works RC well I sheered a stock shaft so I grabbed a set of metal ones from the hobby shop. But man they're so expensive lol
@@nickrriffs that's why I'm holding off. Injora just released brass diff covers and they are half the price of the Traxxas sets. I can imagine that will be the case for most of the aftermarket parts that come out.
How about not using the oring and fill that area with shoe goo? I’m thinking about doing that.
That would work as well. The only down side I see is it's permanent. If you ever needed to replace the pin or just part of the driveshaft you couldn't and would have to replace the entire unit. With the shrink tube you could still remove the o-ring. I just figured it would keep a nice tight seal with it still there. Plus it can be cut off if needed. It also doesn't take 24hr+ to cure.
@@grizzlyworksrc With these drive shafts they would break and wear out and I you can just buy a whole new set. They’re so cheap you can just replace them every 6 months or so.I did mention the shrink wrap idea to another person who had posted a video last week about this issue.With a dab of shoe goo over the pin you can also pull it off if needed. Small flat head screw driver would do the trick.
cool fix
Great job. New subscriber.
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What other ways are there Besides the shrink wrap.
I've heard a few people have gotten thicker/tighter orings. I'm not sure on the size though. There are also a few companies with aftermarket driveshafts now. They all seem to be a better design.
@@grizzlyworksrc thanks for response. I used PTFE THREAD SEAL TAPE AND COVERD THE O RINGS IN THE CENTER OF THE DRIVE SHAFT. I GUESS I SHOULD DO ALL OF THEM. CAN I ALSO USE THREAD LOCK ON THEM TOO. EVEN MAYBE A SILICON RUBBER GLUE. ILL KEEP IN MIND THE AFTER MARKET driveshafts too. Thanks
@@ironj100Thread lock won't help as there are no threads on the pins. They are just blank pins that hold the joint together. Thread locker would most likely cause issues with movement in the joint. I would absolutely recomend doing something to all of them though. I had an oring pop off of my Defender as well and it's only a trail rig. No crawling at all for it. Since doing the shrink tube I haven't had any issues with the Bronco and it's been beat on quite a bit.
@@grizzlyworksrc NOT GOING TO USE THE THREAD LOCK WAS JUST WONDERING. HEY THANKS FOR THE INPUT. ITS REALLY ANNOYING THE TRX4 M HAS THIS PROBLEM. How Hard are the After market DriveShaft to install. So far I have PTFE Thread Tap covering the O RINGS ON THE DRIVE SHAFT. THANK FOR THE FEED BACK
Does this happen to all Trx4M
So far it has only happened to my Bronco. However, I'm not nearly as hard on my Defender cause it's a tow/trail truck.