Hey, I know I'm kind of late to the party on this one, but did you know that if you crumple up some tin foil and then flatten it out again you can sue it to give the craft foam a really cool looking leather effect? All you have to do is put the flattened out tin foil over the foam, before putting it on the prop of course, and go over it with a hot iron. It transfers thin imperfections from the foil to the foam and gives it a really cool worn leather look.
thankyou Evil Ted for the template and video this was just enough detail for me to learn the feel of the tools and glues.i've only been making wepons for a month most from foam board. i learned alot from making this..
Oops, that was a terrible pun. I swear it was an axe-ident. Okay, I'll stop now. I really do love the tutorials, though. A helmet seems like the thing I'm most likely to try at some point. Not a giant stuffed bear helmet, perhaps, but something more normal noggin-sized. The way you demonstrate stuff, and provide explicit lists of materials and techniques, makes it seem really accessible, which is very cool.
Relatively new to crafting. In fact the first thing I made was the viking helmet you showed how to make 😂. But to get rid of shine from wax or sealants and also add to the dirty weathered look, if you finely grind up a stick of charcoal in a tiny amount of wood glue and lightly brush it over the build, it knocks back the shine and really adds to the aged weathered look.
I think that was my favorite How To Video you've done so far and I love them all ! THANKS for taking the time to show all the lil' tricks and details. You Rock !
For the handle, one thing I learned was, if you take a bunch of tin foil, crinkle it up and lay it over your foam, then go over that with a clothes iron, it makes an amazing "skin/leather" look. You did an AMAZING job as per usual, just thought I'd mention a technique I know of.
When I was doing faux finishes on furniture, I used scotch brite pads to cut the sheet on pieces that were still too shiny with matte lacquer. As long as the finish is cured, they should work to dull a finish down without producing visible scratches. You might try those for this application.
Awesome build and awesome tips and tricks as always. I look forward to applying some of them to my future projects. Keep up the awesome work as always Ted.
For me, if I want a flat or semi-gloss finish, I just use a flat or semi-gloss clear coat. It'll take the shine out within 1-3 coats WITHOUT having to use future floor wax. Automotive painters do the same thing. The clearcoat seals and protects.
you can also mix a water based flattening agent into the floor wax. its a popular technique on scale models. I've used Tamiya Flat Base with good results, but that could get expensive for large scale projects.
+Evil Ted Smith No problem Ted. I have been watching your videos for last two months. An been saving up some funds to buy cosplay tools that you have suggested. I am glad their a resource like you to help a beginner like myself. Keep making great videos. I hope to see some more Skyrim props.
a nice way to get leather texture is with crumed up aluminium foil and a hot iron plasing the flatened crumed foil on your foam then pressing the hot iron on the foil
another thing for none shiny wood: try drybrushing matte brown acrylic over the wooden areas after clear coating, that works pretty well for that kind of texture. even though it may wear down over time
hey ted heres my little tip .. when i clear coat all my foam props i use ben nyes translucent setting powder .. its makeup but works a treat !!! .. wait till the clear coat has just a little tac left .. then use a big fluffy brush and use a very little dusting to take away the sheen !!! :) hope this works for you
+Evil Ted Smith i just use normal talcum powder and it works perfectly! But if you use it too soon it leaves a clumpy white residue its best to dust it once it's dry to the touch
Might try wrapping a medium thick piece of fine steel wool around the "leather handle" and very gently twist the handle in the steel wool. This will keep the paint on, but, stress it enough so that the shine is gone. Hope this helps.
Probably mentioned, but using a very high grit sandpaper will help dull down the shine. Just a few light passes so you don't remove all your finish coat.
I'm not sure on how well this would work to dull it down but maybe if you applied some dirt weathering powder to it or even just roughed it up with some fine gritty dirt from outside along with handling it a bunch. Ha get it "handling!"
I don't know if anyone already mentioned this, but Testers Dullcote is the best product I've run across for dulling a surface. It's much better than the Krylon 1311. I usually seal with the Krylon, then just dust over it with the Testers Dullcote. I hope this helps =)
Awesome as always! Wondering, in future videos (or in comments on past vids) can you let us know how long it takes you to do each step? Or at least the whole project? Always looks so easy in the vids, then I sit down to do it and think, "Wow, this is taking forever!" lol Knowing how long it takes an expert would be helpful for perspective. Thanks for all you do!
My only gripe with starting to get into crafting stuff like this and armor etc myself is needing a lot of stuff, all those paints, coatings, cements, glues, all of the tools and even stuff like rubber mats and all. it's tough when you start from scratch :) I'm going to go and watch your tools of the trade videos now :) it's even tougher when you don't live in usa or europe, because you oftten have to find an alternative or even just the thing itself named locally. ugh.
I know absolutely nothing about the amazing work that you do but I may suggest taking little chips off the blade to make it look like it has been chipped during battle
Mix 1 part flat base with 3 parts future floor finish to get a very flat finish or mix 1 part flat base with 10 parts future floor finish to get a flatish finish.
Keep the awesome tutorial vids coming Ted! I have already applied several of your tips and tricks on a "darker than black" mask I just made and thx to your tips it turned out great (especially since it was my first attempt at using eva foam for cosplay crafting)😃 **Question: What is the reasoning behind sealing with floor wax, then sealing again with clear finish? Does the floor wax just provide extra protection of your painted item, or is there another reason behind using it? could you just use more mod podge instead of the floor wax at that stage?
Hola soy de argentina. mire todos tus videos. y la verdad me ayudó muchísimo. estoy preparándome para la Comic Con argentina en mayo. tengo dificultades para hacer el color metal para los filos de las espadas y demás accesorios. ¿que me recomendás?
would it be the same to make a double headed axe but you basaicly mirror the work? i mean the metal part. putting it on both sides instead of only one?
If no one else has suggested this, Army Painter Anti Shine works better then Krylon Matte. I use it on wargame minis and it completely removes the shine. They also have a satin finish if you don't want to remove all the shine. shop.thearmypainter.com/products.php?ProductGroupId=15
@@EvilTedSmith that makes more sense. I was just surprised to see the sponsor of your video is about 15 minutes from my house. I am gonna check them out. Just getting into this stuff...thanks for the videos.
Just subscribed, but if you lock in your paint job with mod podge matte finish it will take down the shine, and seal your paint. I use it on my 40k miniatures.
+Evil Ted Smith I've watched almost all your videos with great interest. I still have a question you might help to solve. I'd like to create a huge sword (read +/- 6 feet long) would you make it out of wood or EVA?
It would weigh a ton in wood unless it was hollow. You could also use some kind of plastic piping as the armament inside the sword to keep it light. Foam would be fine as long as it has support.
Hi Ted! My husband just duplicated this axe. He stopped short of the floor wax though. What is the reason you're using floor polish? You never actually explained the purpose for it as far as I can remember. Please let us know.
Hello Ted, could u use that prop for softcombat? i didnt see any finishing, so the painting job would fade in a few strikes imo. Which finisher would u use? thx a lot
I am not very familiar with soft combat, I imagine it depends on the density of foam that you use. If you want a durable paint job I would go with the technique of mixing paint with latex I go over in my ruclips.net/video/ape0mh-aI5A/видео.html
A great method I use for making foam look like leather is heating up a crumpled sheet of tin foil and pressing the design on the foam, then paint the foam as normal.
One question, Its just for decoration? Or it can take some beating? I mean somethink like battle reconstruction from Lord of the Rings movie? If you hit the table semi hard, what it will do to thew the axe?
what type of air brush do you use? I'm considering in getting one for my boyfriend but not sure in what type to get or where to get the paint from ^^ (we live in England and neither of our parents will let's us go far so eBay and Amazon are the best option for me ) sorry to bother you and ask, i looked through your list and couldn't find your air brush ^^ love your vedios as well ! I never knew such cool things could be made out of foam!
It is the stuff used for the soles of flip-flops, I personally use this type of prop for larping but I don't use the metal armature as some people say it's a bit hard and could be dangerous if not used safely. I use plastic tubing or bendy piping just for a bit of extra give although the paint probably won't hold up as well with a more pliable surface...
OK three things. First & foremost I have learned so much from watching you videos. Second, I'm planing on making a 5 foot by 2 foot riot shield out of 1/2 inch eva & was wondering if an armature would be used or would an external skeleton be better? Third, I'm making modified Fullmetal Alchemist automail ( an arm & leg) & was wondering if you had any tips as its my first ever attempt at making armor styled foam crafts. Thank you for your time.
+Kenn Jørgensen Yes I could use leather, but I'm making this video for people who probably wouldn't have access to leather. I'm just trying to show you can do it with foam.
Ted, you create some awesome stuff!!! One request though, please move your mic away from your throat. Listening to you constantly swallow, for me, takes away from the video itself. Don't get me wrong, I love seeing the stuff you make, it's just a tip. Keep up the good work!!!
Hey, I know I'm kind of late to the party on this one, but did you know that if you crumple up some tin foil and then flatten it out again you can sue it to give the craft foam a really cool looking leather effect? All you have to do is put the flattened out tin foil over the foam, before putting it on the prop of course, and go over it with a hot iron. It transfers thin imperfections from the foil to the foam and gives it a really cool worn leather look.
Super cool. Thanks.
Michael Poirier You kinda just blew my mind
thankyou Evil Ted for the template and video this was just enough detail for me to learn the feel of the tools and glues.i've only been making wepons for a month most from foam board. i learned alot from making this..
+tad6969 Thank you for watching.
Beautiful work, and an axe-llent step by step guide, as always.
+Farlandir Hahaha.
Oops, that was a terrible pun. I swear it was an axe-ident. Okay, I'll stop now.
I really do love the tutorials, though. A helmet seems like the thing I'm most likely to try at some point. Not a giant stuffed bear helmet, perhaps, but something more normal noggin-sized. The way you demonstrate stuff, and provide explicit lists of materials and techniques, makes it seem really accessible, which is very cool.
Farlandir by
Im gonna axe you one more time to stop Farlandir.
Relatively new to crafting. In fact the first thing I made was the viking helmet you showed how to make 😂. But to get rid of shine from wax or sealants and also add to the dirty weathered look, if you finely grind up a stick of charcoal in a tiny amount of wood glue and lightly brush it over the build, it knocks back the shine and really adds to the aged weathered look.
Thanks for the tip. Here what I use now to seal my paint jobs that I don't want shiny. amzn.to/3gJgoS6
I think that was my favorite How To Video you've done so far and I love them all ! THANKS for taking the time to show all the lil' tricks and details. You Rock !
+Dave Sykes You rock for subscribing.
For the handle, one thing I learned was, if you take a bunch of tin foil, crinkle it up and lay it over your foam, then go over that with a clothes iron, it makes an amazing "skin/leather" look.
You did an AMAZING job as per usual, just thought I'd mention a technique I know of.
+DemonWeasel1990 Great tip Demon. Thank you.
+Evil Ted Smith No worries man. Keep the vids comin' this one inspired my recent Orcish War Axe build!
Glad to hear that. I look forward to seeing it.
Testors Dullcote spray gives a great matte finish
When I was doing faux finishes on furniture, I used scotch brite pads to cut the sheet on pieces that were still too shiny with matte lacquer. As long as the finish is cured, they should work to dull a finish down without producing visible scratches. You might try those for this application.
Thanks for the tip.
Awesome build and awesome tips and tricks as always. I look forward to applying some of them to my future projects. Keep up the awesome work as always Ted.
+Cosplay Armory Thanks, and I look forward to seeing what you build.
For me, if I want a flat or semi-gloss finish, I just use a flat or semi-gloss clear coat. It'll take the shine out within 1-3 coats WITHOUT having to use future floor wax. Automotive painters do the same thing. The clearcoat seals and protects.
you can also mix a water based flattening agent into the floor wax. its a popular technique on scale models. I've used Tamiya Flat Base with good results, but that could get expensive for large scale projects.
+Mando Man Thank you, good idea.
Awesome! Thanks Evil Ted.
Ted thanks for showing how to make and epic axe from Skyrim!!! I love watching your videos!!!
+GlockUSMC Thank you for subscribing.
+Evil Ted Smith No problem Ted. I have been watching your videos for last two months. An been saving up some funds to buy cosplay tools that you have suggested. I am glad their a resource like you to help a beginner like myself. Keep making great videos. I hope to see some more Skyrim props.
Got dang man. I’m so flipping impressed????
The pattern is free..eviltedsmith.com/shop/iron-war-axe-pattern/
This was great inspiration prior to working on my darkest dungeon cosplay!
+rabbitgear Thank you.
a nice way to get leather texture is with crumed up aluminium foil and a hot iron plasing the flatened crumed foil on your foam then pressing the hot iron on the foil
It's been so fun watching your videos progress over time. This was the best one yet! Thanks for inspiring!
+BelleChere Thank you for subscribing.
+Evil Ted Smith stop you violated the law...get the reference
tu siempre haces tus trabajos ver tan facil
another thing for none shiny wood: try drybrushing matte brown acrylic over the wooden areas after clear coating, that works pretty well for that kind of texture. even though it may wear down over time
+Maverick Zero Thank you.
that was awesome man i hope u can upload more videos like this, about medieval weapons of foam
hey ted heres my little tip .. when i clear coat all my foam props i use ben nyes translucent setting powder .. its makeup but works a treat !!! .. wait till the clear coat has just a little tac left .. then use a big fluffy brush and use a very little dusting to take away the sheen !!! :) hope this works for you
+charmlighter Thanks!
+Evil Ted Smith i just use normal talcum powder and it works perfectly! But if you use it too soon it leaves a clumpy white residue its best to dust it once it's dry to the touch
Might try wrapping a medium thick piece of fine steel wool around the "leather handle" and very gently twist the handle in the steel wool. This will keep the paint on, but, stress it enough so that the shine is gone. Hope this helps.
looks amazing.
Dude, you're actually my hero
Mad kudos :,)
+Jenna “Jennacide” Miles Thank you for subscribing.
Probably mentioned, but using a very high grit sandpaper will help dull down the shine. Just a few light passes so you don't remove all your finish coat.
Thanks for the video Ted. Keep up the awesome work!
Excellent work. Thanks very much for sharing this!
I'm not sure on how well this would work to dull it down but maybe if you applied some dirt weathering powder to it or even just roughed it up with some fine gritty dirt from outside along with handling it a bunch. Ha get it "handling!"
Thank you for making there videos! They're so inspiring!
+GreenTea3443 Thank you for subscribing.
had to subscribe after seeing that great tutorial. Thanks Ted
+Thomas Le Thank you for subscribing.
Thank you a lot for yours tutorials!
+Amiko_chan Channel (Amiko-chan) Thank you for subscribing.
+Evil Ted Smith ted the technique used in the male armour tutorial, can it be used to make a spartan costume from halo
The leather grip would have a shine to it as the oil and wax from your hand polishes it.
I don't know if anyone already mentioned this, but Testers Dullcote is the best product I've run across for dulling a surface. It's much better than the Krylon 1311. I usually seal with the Krylon, then just dust over it with the Testers Dullcote. I hope this helps =)
Thank you for the tip.
Awesome as always! Wondering, in future videos (or in comments on past vids) can you let us know how long it takes you to do each step? Or at least the whole project? Always looks so easy in the vids, then I sit down to do it and think, "Wow, this is taking forever!" lol Knowing how long it takes an expert would be helpful for perspective. Thanks for all you do!
It takes as long as it takes. I've been building for about 30 years. So don't focus on time, just build till it's done.
I Think it was easy for me to build the real thing.. amazing work
Really great videos.
+1972ruca Thank you for subscribing.
Testors Dull Cote is lacquer base and will knock down that shine completely.
+Wild1chevy Thanks for the tip.
Excelent Prop! If you want a less sheen finish look for a FLAT instead of Matte.
My only gripe with starting to get into crafting stuff like this and armor etc myself is needing a lot of stuff, all those paints, coatings, cements, glues, all of the tools and even stuff like rubber mats and all. it's tough when you start from scratch :) I'm going to go and watch your tools of the trade videos now :) it's even tougher when you don't live in usa or europe, because you oftten have to find an alternative or even just the thing itself named locally. ugh.
Yes, use whatever you can get your hands on.
Nomado Coyote total understand, it takes time to build up your collection. Start small, and take your time. Everyone's gotta start somewhere!
Incredibile ! Sembra vera ! Grande !
Hey ted you should do a full tutorial of boba fetts helmet and armor or just mandalorian armor and helmet
To take the sheen down even more, you should look into Testor's Dullcote. I have used it many times.
+Brian Meschke Thanks for the tip.
wauw thats awesome love it
I love that you subscribed
Have you tried Alclad matt Klear Kote? It dulls down really well and airbrushes straight from the bottle.
I know absolutely nothing about the amazing work that you do but I may suggest taking little chips off the blade to make it look like it has been chipped during battle
Mix 1 part flat base with 3 parts future floor finish to get a very flat finish
or mix 1 part flat base with 10 parts future floor finish to get a flatish finish.
Keep the awesome tutorial vids coming Ted! I have already applied several of your tips and tricks on a "darker than black" mask I just made and thx to your tips it turned out great (especially since it was my first attempt at using eva foam for cosplay crafting)😃
**Question: What is the reasoning behind sealing with floor wax, then sealing again with clear finish? Does the floor wax just provide extra protection of your painted item, or is there another reason behind using it? could you just use more mod podge instead of the floor wax at that stage?
+loveanakin85 Yes you can. I like floor wax because you can put on thin coats.
Great tutorial. Have you tried matt acrylic medium to dilute your paint a little? Maybe that will help?
+Lucas Dirkx Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for the awesome videos Ted. I've even been considering a career in prop design, but I've been wondering, how do you make elbow joint pieces?
Did you just paint right on the Plasti-Dip? Does the paint take well to that coating? Awesome video!!!
+Chrissy Enoch Yes, you can. But it helps to paint primer first.
Aw that 's cool !
Prop goals , skyrim weapons =v=
Hey Evil Ted! Great video as always! Maybe some Testors Dullcote to take that shine down?
+Noah Spence Good ideal. Thanks.
Hola soy de argentina. mire todos tus videos. y la verdad me ayudó muchísimo. estoy preparándome para la Comic Con argentina en mayo.
tengo dificultades para hacer el color metal para los filos de las espadas y demás accesorios. ¿que me recomendás?
you should do the sith stalker helmet from star wars the force unleashed video game!
+Kyle Collins You can use my techniques to make that helmet.
try hitting the shiney parts with scotch pad lightly.. just enough to take away the shine.
Hey. I only just found your channel. How well does the paint hold up if you use the axe for fighting? Spray pain especially usually flakes off for me
What compressor do you use for that airbrush? I'm looking for something quiet to use in a garage
+Diego Amador Any compressor that can put out 25 psi.
would it be the same to make a double headed axe but you basaicly mirror the work? i mean the metal part. putting it on both sides instead of only one?
Yes you could do that! I have the pattern free on my site.
Have you ever tried Testors Dullcote? I swear by it for getting a matte finish.
+David Mathis (ElDavePhoto) Thanks.
If no one else has suggested this, Army Painter Anti Shine works better then Krylon Matte. I use it on wargame minis and it completely removes the shine. They also have a satin finish if you don't want to remove all the shine.
shop.thearmypainter.com/products.php?ProductGroupId=15
Crazy question bro - are you local to DFW? I see that TNT Cosplay is in Irving.
I'm based out of Los Angeles.
@@EvilTedSmith that makes more sense. I was just surprised to see the sponsor of your video is about 15 minutes from my house. I am gonna check them out. Just getting into this stuff...thanks for the videos.
You're awesome and your channel too! a question: you have to apply the kwikseal before or after heating the prop w/the blowtorch?
After you heat seal it is the best way I found.
if u dont have an airbrush, how can u apply thin coats of latex or the floor wax? or do u have to rely on an airbrush. because its a little pricy
Why do you spray your foam projects in plastic dip before they are spray painted? Is it because the paint will eat away at the foam?
Where did you get the rounded dremmel head? I can't find one that looks like that.
Here you go. Sorry I thought it was there... Grinding stone
amzn.to/2pyGe0V
Just subscribed, but if you lock in your paint job with mod podge matte finish it will take down the shine, and seal your paint. I use it on my 40k miniatures.
+Evil Ted Smith I've watched almost all your videos with great interest. I still have a question you might help to solve. I'd like to create a huge sword (read +/- 6 feet long) would you make it out of wood or EVA?
It would weigh a ton in wood unless it was hollow. You could also use some kind of plastic piping as the armament inside the sword to keep it light. Foam would be fine as long as it has support.
Hi Ted! My husband just duplicated this axe. He stopped short of the floor wax though. What is the reason you're using floor polish? You never actually explained the purpose for it as far as I can remember. Please let us know.
+Bonne Eury I like to seal the paint job, so thats why spray floor wax on it.
Will the paint crack if the axe flexes or is impacted?
+T0xicN0va Everything cracks over time but my girlfriend was climbing trees for a photo shoot with an axe like this and not even a nick.
Maybe I missed it in the video but what was the thickness of the foam that you used to make the axe?
Hello Ted, could u use that prop for softcombat? i didnt see any finishing, so the painting job would fade in a few strikes imo. Which finisher would u use? thx a lot
I am not very familiar with soft combat, I imagine it depends on the density of foam that you use. If you want a durable paint job I would go with the technique of mixing paint with latex I go over in my ruclips.net/video/ape0mh-aI5A/видео.html
A great method I use for making foam look like leather is heating up a crumpled sheet of tin foil and pressing the design on the foam, then paint the foam as normal.
Yes, I saw that after I made this…Oh well, next time.
One question, Its just for decoration? Or it can take some beating? I mean somethink like battle reconstruction from Lord of the Rings movie? If you hit the table semi hard, what it will do to thew the axe?
You'll break it if you have a fight with it.
what type of air brush do you use? I'm considering in getting one for my boyfriend but not sure in what type to get or where to get the paint from ^^ (we live in England and neither of our parents will let's us go far so eBay and Amazon are the best option for me ) sorry to bother you and ask, i looked through your list and couldn't find your air brush ^^ love your vedios as well ! I never knew such cool things could be made out of foam!
My tools of the trade 2.0 video has the latest links for supplies
+Evil Ted Smith oh OK thank you ^^
To make it less shiny use wallpaper paste
Thank you.
only thing i would say for the leather handle is use actual leather after you have painted everything
Thank you.
Would these work for larping? How soft are they, could you compare it to something?
It is the stuff used for the soles of flip-flops, I personally use this type of prop for larping but I don't use the metal armature as some people say it's a bit hard and could be dangerous if not used safely. I use plastic tubing or bendy piping just for a bit of extra give although the paint probably won't hold up as well with a more pliable surface...
Let's say I'm wanting to film a sword fight. Would these foam weapons hold up to that kind of abuse?
Your weapons are only as tough as you make them
Did I miss where you stayed how you thinned down paint? Did you use paint thinner? Wondering how you did that
I use denatured alcohol to thin the paint.
How well would the aluminum/craft metal core stand up for larping?
+Josh McInturf It will take a beatting, and if it bends you can bend it back.
can bu used to performance ? o light battles?
+jose luis campos ponce Sure you could.
testors 1260 dullcoat. flatter finish than krylon
Thank you.
I may sound stupid but what is "EVA"? thanks
It's the stuff that's floor mats are made of. I have a supply list just below the video.
I'm looking at getting my first airbrush for prop painting. I don't really know what to look for, any suggestions?
This is the Air brush I use.
amzn.to/2120io8
TNT Cosplay Supply realy needs some some product pictures
+Don Neal Write to them telling them that. They are a new company and they really like helping the Cosplay community.
OK three things. First & foremost I have learned so much from watching you videos. Second, I'm planing on making a 5 foot by 2 foot riot shield out of 1/2 inch eva & was wondering if an armature would be used or would an external skeleton be better? Third, I'm making modified Fullmetal Alchemist automail ( an arm & leg) & was wondering if you had any tips as its my first ever attempt at making armor styled foam crafts. Thank you for your time.
Braum's shield?
+Ghedeon tiponut no idea what you mean
+pyruleanfire sorry i tought you said lol shield not riot shield :)
hi tedd is there any difference between the foam youare using and thermocole.
+Durga Prasad The foam I'm using is soft and flexible, and themocole is not.
can you please share the link where i can get that foam. If not possible please say the trade name of the foam you used.Thanks in advance
I have my supply list below the video. Or check out my site eviltedsmith.com
What brand of Acrylics do you use?
He looks like adam savage from mythbusters
What pot is that for the contact cement! :D I need one bad!!
I have my supply list just below the video.
Thank you so much Ted for getting back to me!! :) love your work and I love your channel! :)
Wait actual Pledge floor care?
Yep. It's basically clear acrylic. It's a modelers trick from way back for gloss coating plastic models so that decals will adhere more smoothly.
What sort of glue have you used for the foam? It seems very strong ^^
I have my supply list just below the video.
Oh ups. Sorry man :x
very nice, why don't you use real leather for the handle?... it'll look real, I promise ;)
+Kenn Jørgensen Yes I could use leather, but I'm making this video for people who probably wouldn't have access to leather. I'm just trying to show you can do it with foam.
what kind of glue does he use for the foam?
+Alex Is Weird I have my supply list just below my video.
I guess people axe you questions all the time about building one of these axes. I would say that you have a handle on it.
Well said.
I use one coat of clear Plasti-dip to get rid of any shine that I don't want
+Gabriel Thompson Thanks.
+Evil Ted Smith not a problem, love your work and have been using what I've learned from you when making larp weapons x3
Ted, you create some awesome stuff!!! One request though, please move your mic away from your throat. Listening to you constantly swallow, for me, takes away from the video itself. Don't get me wrong, I love seeing the stuff you make, it's just a tip. Keep up the good work!!!
Hey, Ted.
Can you dremel foam that's been plasti-dipped?
12:25
Ted can you make a sniper rifle or a semi auto machine gun for your next vedio?