well done, great job 👍👏. i followed your method, leveled the patch with a stick. when i used the float on it , the small pebbles in the sand , created little trenches. i used plastering sand. you don't seem to have that problem. your plastering looks very smooth. top marks 🏆.
Hi mac have you seen videos of other countries rendering where they apply cement then a powder it seems to set it not sure.if its just.cement or a dry mix adding when doing window surrounds and ornate paterns
Hi, this was an excellent video, very well explained, many thanks, I need a few patch plastering tips so I have subscribed to your channel. Could I just ask please, where I want to patch the render, the original was finished off using a tyrolean gun, albeit S&C, not actual tyrolean. Would I be better waiting till the finish coat is dried or use the tyrolean gun as the top coat is setting?, many thanks again.
We don't do very much of that here but I would try go over it as it is setting for best bond similar how we do our wet dash next day should work but just wouldn't be as strong a bond... thank you for subscribing mate 👍
He mixes 1 bucket of water with whichever additives are required at that time. A simple but consistent method. Only downside is you may have a nearly full bucket hanging about at times.👍
@@macplastering I would have added an unnecessary step, this is where that good old fashioned experience comes into play. Is the reason for this, it is clean fresh material?
Thing is sbr wouldn't hurt it just seems like a waste better to use on old block or a taste in 1st coat be ok or old brick have a good few videos where i show scud coat and prep for inside walls and for top coats ect :)
Hi there. HELP!! I remodelled a wall to brick up a doorway and create double doors and some areas needing rendering are nearly 50mm deep and 0.5m in size. From my research more than 25mm render in two layers is not recommended. How do I tackle that? I'd really appreciate any advice and thanks for your AMAZING videos. 👍💥
so the areas that are deep you might want to scud them let that set a day then scratch it out say 3 to 1 then let that set a day then go agin scratch out 3and half to 1 then next day fill all flush and finish with 4 to 1 just might take a longer time than you wished but can be rendered in multiple coats all mixes and methods a can be found on this channel mate
Thank you so much. I thought you can't do more than two coats. If it's ok to do multiple coats getting progressively weaker then that's what I'll do. I did look through your channel and watched a few but didn't find one on deep holes... must have missed it. Love your channel and really appreciate your response. 👍🤗
I've been caught out using a 🍌 timber straight edges 🤣😂🤣, Put some 🌞 lotion on that Head, it's on 🔥, As Always Great detail in your video for the nube's
I don't like them decking boards used over there. One time they used back cut the boards to keep them from cupping....on stairs mostly. I've seen treated timber in Ireland to rot in a handful of years. Holes in it. My father made a picnic table in Chicago in the 80s with treated timber that table has been in Ireland in mayo outside since the 90s. Zero damage! I re stained it a couple years back. The table and stools are solid. Was great green stuff back than. But them boards in Ireland and the treated fence posts over there rot fast. There was great treated timber one time here ...still good I think. I recall them saying a sliver from that green timber here used fester up your hand. But yeah them boards ....just thought you can burn them....they will burn. The stuff here used to just go black and smoke.
Also more rendering videos on the channel guys :)
well done, great job 👍👏. i followed your method, leveled the patch with a stick. when i used the float on it , the small pebbles in the sand , created little trenches. i used plastering sand. you don't seem to have that problem. your plastering looks very smooth. top marks 🏆.
Possibly a little to dry or thin just mate but them grits do add the stregth
Class work as always Mac. 👌👌
Hey Neil mate thanks for watching and commenting mate hope your getting on well
@@macplastering all good here thanks. Good to see you are back making video's again.
Always a pleasure to watch.
Cheers man :):)
Very informative video !
Great neat work
Thank you Lee mate have done so e bigger render videos recently might be even better again... thanks again for watching and commenting 🙂
Great video Mac I used to have a nightmare with render sliding and tearing off the scratch coat, the weight of sand and cement can be a pain 🙄
Big time mate for sure best to build out than go for it some times :)
Excellent work. Thanks for sharing my friend.
Thanks for watching and commenting my friend :)
Great video Mac 👍
Thank you mate hope your well
Thanks for the tips.
Anytime buddy
Doing good mate, nice job 👍
Hi Will thanks mate patching can be harder than the full wall at times, thanks for watching and commenting mate
Yeah you wouldn't think it'd be like that you'd think it would be easier but no definitely harder
True man most jobs peopke want patched think its a money and time saver but we know it can be hard to make them seamless and nice for painting
Hi mac have you seen videos of other countries rendering where they apply cement then a powder it seems to set it not sure.if its just.cement or a dry mix adding when doing window surrounds and ornate paterns
Yes mate its called dryers supposee to be a dry mix but most i seen looks lije pure cement
Great video 👍.
Than you mate hope your doing well
Great detailed video Mac... Couple question please.
What type of sand?
Do you use plastercizer additive?
Hi paul plastering sand and Larsen on the most mate
Hi, this was an excellent video, very well explained, many thanks, I need a few patch plastering tips so I have subscribed to your channel. Could I just ask please, where I want to patch the render, the original was finished off using a tyrolean gun, albeit S&C, not actual tyrolean. Would I be better waiting till the finish coat is dried or use the tyrolean gun as the top coat is setting?, many thanks again.
We don't do very much of that here but I would try go over it as it is setting for best bond similar how we do our wet dash next day should work but just wouldn't be as strong a bond... thank you for subscribing mate 👍
Great weather ....in your cotton shift! Your mix 3to1...what's the story with additives....or washing up liquid.
He mixes 1 bucket of water with whichever additives are required at that time. A simple but consistent method. Only downside is you may have a nearly full bucket hanging about at times.👍
@@alabinibop Henikein might be needed
Yes mate alabinibop has it you can cut every thing in half so if only need small amounts have a few mix recipes on the channel if you wanna see them
Did you put SBR on the wall before the scratch coat???
No not need om these new block mate
@@macplastering I would have added an unnecessary step, this is where that good old fashioned experience comes into play. Is the reason for this, it is clean fresh material?
Thing is sbr wouldn't hurt it just seems like a waste better to use on old block or a taste in 1st coat be ok or old brick have a good few videos where i show scud coat and prep for inside walls and for top coats ect :)
Brilliant bud 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Thanks for watching and commenting mate hope your doing well
If old scratch coat is still bonded good how do you patch a new float coat?
Most likely i would paint with sbr and go back over but problem is your are still guessing what the ratio of the scratch coat was
Hi there. HELP!! I remodelled a wall to brick up a doorway and create double doors and some areas needing rendering are nearly 50mm deep and 0.5m in size. From my research more than 25mm render in two layers is not recommended. How do I tackle that? I'd really appreciate any advice and thanks for your AMAZING videos. 👍💥
@@hannahswann747 is it outside or inside?
Thanks for your reply 🙏 It's outside...
so your near 2 inch's it is a deep one to fill for sure but can be done no doubt
so the areas that are deep you might want to scud them let that set a day then scratch it out say 3 to 1 then let that set a day then go agin scratch out 3and half to 1 then next day fill all flush and finish with 4 to 1 just might take a longer time than you wished but can be rendered in multiple coats all mixes and methods a can be found on this channel mate
Thank you so much. I thought you can't do more than two coats. If it's ok to do multiple coats getting progressively weaker then that's what I'll do. I did look through your channel and watched a few but didn't find one on deep holes... must have missed it. Love your channel and really appreciate your response. 👍🤗
Is it just regular building sand?
It's plastering sand mate
I've been caught out using a 🍌 timber straight edges 🤣😂🤣, Put some 🌞 lotion on that Head, it's on 🔥, As Always Great detail in your video for the nube's
Haha i was gona use the refina serrated but was afrid it would pull the existing paint of sides so wood was kinder that way lol
I don't like them decking boards used over there. One time they used back cut the boards to keep them from cupping....on stairs mostly. I've seen treated timber in Ireland to rot in a handful of years. Holes in it. My father made a picnic table in Chicago in the 80s with treated timber that table has been in Ireland in mayo outside since the 90s. Zero damage! I re stained it a couple years back. The table and stools are solid. Was great green stuff back than. But them boards in Ireland and the treated fence posts over there rot fast.
There was great treated timber one time here ...still good I think. I recall them saying a sliver from that green timber here used fester up your hand.
But yeah them boards ....just thought you can burn them....they will burn. The stuff here used to just go black and smoke.
Most ones ive seen are treated but a few like you say just rot and slippy actually have a video pulling an old rotted one away lol