As the owner of #5, I can attest to this mans commitment to producing a quality product and his attention to the fine details are right up there with the finest gunsmiths in the industry.
Easily got my thumbs up. Was no stupid music, got to hear the actual sounds of the content, person learned to talk to provide details, and the content was interesting to follow along. Thanks for sharing
The frame expanding as it comes out of the vice and thus the fit being tighter, reminds me of heat expansion causing similar things. I have an airsoft 1911 and I 3D printed a bull style outer barrel for it because the factory one was drop in. I printed the barrel oversized and then spun it in drill while sending the front of it with sand paper. I went through multiple grids and at the end barrel fitted very well. But plastic expands quite a bit as temperature increases and as the barrel cooled down after the sending it became sloppy. So I learned to cool down parts before I test fit them.
I built my 1st 1911 GI a few yrs ago, I always wandered why the hell they cost so much!! Yeah well I realized “Why”! Every single part in that gun had to be hand filed, polished and fit to perfection!!! Thankfully, I’m good at it because now I have one hell of an accurate gun! I’ve always been fascinated with the 1911 because of WWII ! But I love it even more after building one..
Awesome video, I've completed 4 1911 builds and currently working on number 5, I agree with your teaching because all you said and showed in your video is involved in doing a 1911 build. I'm asked alot about fitting the 1911 parts trigger, hammer etc.and what tools are used for these builds, I thought about doing a few videos on this but just don't have the time, the way you do your videos you would be an excellent choice to do this. Awesome video and very valuable information 👍
One thing you didn't address in this video, but if you are going to cerakote the gun, do you need to make this tolerance a bit looser? Or do you mask it before coating?
Here is what I don't understand. With aerospace level CNC easily had for low 5 figures... why are parts not made to 'exacting' tolerances? Is there no gunsmith / CAD overlap? I just cannot understand why you do not set the tolerances in CAD, and then cut to that spec? If you're able to hold a thou... that's only 2 thou stacking. It is difficult to believe a hand and file are going to do better.
You can fit all 4 dimensions to +\-.0001” by hand with a lot of patience. A temperature change in the environment can cause a CNC machine to shift .0005” - .0010” or more in length and diameter simultaneously. So while you could theoretically hit exact dimensions off the CNC, it’s much easier and less risky to fit these by hand when you are shooting for near-zero clearance. When I was running a CNC, for the +.0005”/-.0000” dimensions I would often run big and then file them into tolerance after the fact because the tool wear and temperature shift made it difficult to hold that tolerance. When I was working swing shift during the summer, I would have to shift that tool .0030” between sets at 4-5PM just to keep it from scrapping the whole set because the machine would shift that much just from temp. And that’s while trying to hit a .0005” wide tolerance.
You can't understand this because you aren't a Gunsmith nor are you a Machinist. If you were a Gunsmith or a Machinist you would not have even asked the question and would not be confused.
Because as the mills wear they bacome smaller and thus parts would fit tighter and they would have to measure the mills and change the off-sets after every part. Also different makers use different tolerances, but if everyone makes it little oversized you can buy parts of different brands and still fit them together.
As the owner of #5, I can attest to this mans commitment to producing a quality product and his attention to the fine details are right up there with the finest gunsmiths in the industry.
Easily got my thumbs up. Was no stupid music, got to hear the actual sounds of the content, person learned to talk to provide details, and the content was interesting to follow along. Thanks for sharing
The frame expanding as it comes out of the vice and thus the fit being tighter, reminds me of heat expansion causing similar things. I have an airsoft 1911 and I 3D printed a bull style outer barrel for it because the factory one was drop in. I printed the barrel oversized and then spun it in drill while sending the front of it with sand paper. I went through multiple grids and at the end barrel fitted very well. But plastic expands quite a bit as temperature increases and as the barrel cooled down after the sending it became sloppy. So I learned to cool down parts before I test fit them.
I use dry erase whiteboard markers when fitting parts . It will rub where there is contact and leave marker where there is plenty of space.
Quickly becoming one of my favorite builders. Please make more vids!
FIRST!
Loving watching these process videos I wish more companies would do stuff like this!
Looking forward to a video on extractor shaping!
Hey thanks for watching!
I built my 1st 1911 GI a few yrs ago, I always wandered why the hell they cost so much!! Yeah well I realized “Why”! Every single part in that gun had to be hand filed, polished and fit to perfection!!! Thankfully, I’m good at it because now I have one hell of an accurate gun! I’ve always been fascinated with the 1911 because of WWII ! But I love it even more after building one..
So Good, Quality, congratulation 🎓
Awesome video, I've completed 4 1911 builds and currently working on number 5, I agree with your teaching because all you said and showed in your video is involved in doing a 1911 build. I'm asked alot about fitting the 1911 parts trigger, hammer etc.and what tools are used for these builds, I thought about doing a few videos on this but just don't have the time, the way you do your videos you would be an excellent choice to do this. Awesome video and very valuable information 👍
Thanks for watching!
Incredible 🇺🇸👏
Great video.
What stones and files are you using in this video? Grit, type, and size please!
One thing you didn't address in this video, but if you are going to cerakote the gun, do you need to make this tolerance a bit looser? Or do you mask it before coating?
Crickets
Here is what I don't understand.
With aerospace level CNC easily had for low 5 figures... why are parts not made to 'exacting' tolerances?
Is there no gunsmith / CAD overlap?
I just cannot understand why you do not set the tolerances in CAD, and then cut to that spec?
If you're able to hold a thou... that's only 2 thou stacking.
It is difficult to believe a hand and file are going to do better.
You can fit all 4 dimensions to +\-.0001” by hand with a lot of patience. A temperature change in the environment can cause a CNC machine to shift .0005” - .0010” or more in length and diameter simultaneously. So while you could theoretically hit exact dimensions off the CNC, it’s much easier and less risky to fit these by hand when you are shooting for near-zero clearance. When I was running a CNC, for the +.0005”/-.0000” dimensions I would often run big and then file them into tolerance after the fact because the tool wear and temperature shift made it difficult to hold that tolerance. When I was working swing shift during the summer, I would have to shift that tool .0030” between sets at 4-5PM just to keep it from scrapping the whole set because the machine would shift that much just from temp. And that’s while trying to hit a .0005” wide tolerance.
You can't understand this because you aren't a Gunsmith nor are you a Machinist. If you were a Gunsmith or a Machinist you would not have even asked the question and would not be confused.
Because as the mills wear they bacome smaller and thus parts would fit tighter and they would have to measure the mills and change the off-sets after every part. Also different makers use different tolerances, but if everyone makes it little oversized you can buy parts of different brands and still fit them together.
acc u rail.
You talk a lot