My wood cutting board is precious to me. I made for my mother 47 years ago. It's laminated sidegrain alternating Oak and Mahogany. At the time it seemed to me that the wood cost a fortune (I earned my own money when I was a kid). It is 2 inches thick (~ 5 cm) X 16 X 20. When she past away it became mine. It is well used and well cared for. It may be in my family another 50+ years. We cook all the time and also use plastic (nylon) boards as well and one of those is 30 years old with a shallow blood groove around the outer edge... My son is a professional chief... the wood board will go to him. Your remark about the sound of chopping on wood is truly emotive. Sounds in a kitchen are as exciting as the aromas! I just had to subscribe. ;-)
I use rubberised mesh sheets to keep boards from slipping. Works for wood or plastic boards, on any kind of surface, and has 101 other uses[*]. It usually stays clean as it is obscured by the board, but can be washed if needed. comes in a roll and is cheap and easy to cut to size. * comes in handy when opening jars, * I use it, or a silicone baking sheet, to secure my pasta roller, far superior to the small built in rubber feet, * secures my marble tempering slab, * I place them under place mats and trays so that the [very young] kids cannot t inadvertently pull things off the table, * also works as a handy buffer when I need to place a heavy glass object on my hard granite surfaces, * can be used as a non-slip surface in the bath (esp. for young children and the elderly).
I don't use wooden boards but the one important thing you forgot to mention is how to determine when to change a cutting board whether it's plastic, wood, or any other material. I love your channel! New subscriber here.
I have binged a lot of your videos tonight, and I just want to say, you are the best channel out there! So informative and I can't get enough of you. Thank you so much for starting this channel. You are truly amazing!
Only my second video by Helen, but when she said that the wooden cutting board was "a pain in de ass to clean!" - she had me for life as a viewer. I find it so refreshing to see that kind of genuine quality in a review. Good work on this one, Helen!
I made my own end-grain, hard maple cutting board almost twenty years ago on the theory that the old-timey butcher block tables probably were on to something. My counter top version is 1 5/8 inches thick with hard plastic, chair-leg feet. When new, it got coats and coats of olive oil on both sides. I only stopped when the oil stopped soaking in. These days when a dry spot develops on the cutting surface it gets mineral oil. After each use, the board is wiped clean with a wet dishrag. If proteins were involved that dishrag is hot and soapy, followed by rinsing the cutting surface under the faucet tap and sopping up visible water with the rinsed dishrag. Once a month or so I wipe the cutting surface with a weak bleach solution. Maybe I've just been lucky, but there's never been a problem with anyone getting sick, and my knives have been very happy.
To cut something staining like beets on a wood board, I just wet the surface a bit first, then rinse it promptly afterward. A bristle brush works very well to clean my cutting boards which are all edge-grain wood. I have a counter that makes slipping difficult, but on previous counters I would use a porous drawer liner under the cutting board. I cut it a little smaller than my favorite cutting board and it worked wonderfully and felt very tidy.
I've picked up a lot of tips from your excellent videos, but I have to point something out: You shouldn't use canola or other vegetable oils on a wooden cutting board, simply because those oils become rancid due to oxidation. Food-grade mineral oil is the protectant of choice.
@@RoseLe Google is your friend. There are lots of brands - It's simply known as "food-grade mineral oil". Regular mineral oil can be toxic, but the food-grade stuff is safe for food contact.
@@RoseLe Walmart. Few bucks. In the laxative aisle. I mix with beeswax to make my own board butters. I use a Boos walnut edge grain. No warping and keeps my very expensive knives from dulling.
@@mestizoboy Any mineral oil that you can buy in the OTC area of a grocery store, drug store or Walmart or similar place is perfectly safe for this kind of use and no you don't need to spend endless hours trying to research a specific brand. It wouldn't be sold in this section if it were dangerous. Any sold in these sections are, straight from Wikipedia: classified group 3 as not suspected to be carcinogenic, from known available information sufficient to classify them as harmless. Now, this is what people know to be "regular mineral oil" There are OTHER mineral oils that can be bought, mainly for industrial use, but not for food equipment, that are not safe, and ca irritate the skin. In RARE cases, the use of mineral oil that you buy over the counter can irritate a small percentage of human's skin. What they will NEVER do is be toxic when you use them on a board and you have allowed the oil to soak into the wood. Mineral oil can be ingested, which means that the TINY bit of oil that could possibly wick out onto the food, very unlikely, is totally harmless. Yes, Google is your friend as long as you use it correctly and don't follow the trail of conspiracy or overly cautious humans that want to blame ANYTHING for something that happened to ANYONE, without REAL data to back up what they're saying.
One board is straight grain at 1 1/2 inches thick. One is end grain at 1 1/4 inches thick. Have had both forever - no splitting or warping. I do not baby the boards at all. A few stains add to their 'character': wood is so very natural to the senses. I have never owned a plastic board. (I do not own plastic dishes or storage containers either) I will soon open a small cafe in central MA. My background is business. Food service is new to me. I have observed at several area restaurants. They all use plastic boards for the reasons you mentioned. I have decided to use wood (epoxy sealed) as table tops in the dining area...and plastic for all cutting boards. Thanks for your insights.
I am a wood cutting board guy, I like to tinker around with wood working and when I collect enough scraps (i.e. mistakes), which is pretty quick and often with my wood working skill's :o) I make a new cutting board/cheese board/serving tray etc... They also make good gifts, all my neighbors have one, as do my family and even a number of my Coe workers... did I mention that I am not a very good wood worker.
My plastic board is similar to the one Helen uses and it is my go to board. My wooden bard is America's Test Kitchen's favorite Proteak 18x20 board. It weighs 15 lbs so it does not move and it is beautiful when not being used. Excellent video!.
I have a bamboo carving board. It's fine for carving as the carving knife rarely even touches the board. I also use it when I want to chop with my vegetable cleaver. I've found that that knife is aggressive enough to damage softer cutting boards. And the cleaver can stand a bit of abuse from the harder surface. Right tool for the right job. I most definitely shift over to a less hard board when chopping with sharper and less durable knives.
#realcomment Over the years, my lovely maple boards, never seen a dishwasher, eventually split along the lamination line; or warp. My best, favorite, cutting board is bamboo. It cleans easily, is light but not too light, food doesn't slide on it. I have three bamboo boards of different sizes, and the smaller ones I use for serving things like cheese. I also use a plastic board for cutting slippery foods like chicken or pork, and I can just pop it in the sink while I continue preparing vegetables on my bamboo board. p.s. my knives have never seen the inside of a dishwasher, either!
I bought a teak cutting board, sanded it, and added a few coats of Tried & True Danish Oil. Loving it so far. Probably will do the same with an end-grain board soon.
My wood board was the one I grew up with, and I'm 70. It is warped, but I am so used to it. I have tried removing the warp, but have been unsuccessful. It's about 1" thick. I use it for veggies only, never meat or seafood. My plastic board is, um, 25 years old? I use this one for seafood and meat and put it in the dishwasher. It looks very much like yours. I also have a much smaller wood board used for breads only, also one I grew up with. The green paint on the edges has been slowly disappearing. I enjoy your teaching videos. Thank you.
Helen, I wish I lived in Boston! My work around is to view everything you’ve done on RUclips and share your videos with everyone I know! Your opinions are so well delivered and explained. Thank you for sharing your hard-earned lessons with us.
#realcomment End grain should be oiled so much that water can't affect it. You shouldn't use organic oils (like canola mentioned) for cutting boards, engine oil, on bearings etc because it turns rancid and gummy. Food grade mineral oil is cheap! I don't wash my end grain in a sink; I spray it with white vinegar and wipe it with a paper towel immediately.
mad thumbs I use drying oils (usually linseed though you can use walnut also) combined with beeswax on my wooden cutting boards. I oil the boards thoroughly when new they will take a lot of oil at this time. Then occasionally I give them a little wipe if they need it (not often). The drying oils seal the board surface as they will go hard (almost like a plastic or varnish). The boards clean very very easily and do not hold any smells. I have both end grain (my preference) side grain, oiling works equally well for both. I generally use beeswax+linseed for boards and beeswax+walnut for smaller more delicate items like wooden spoons/spatulas. My experience with plastic boards is that they get cut up real quick and need to be replaced - hence I personally prefer wood. Personally not a fan of mineral oil - but that is just me...
@@jomsies Food grade flax seed oil (filtered through a coffee filter if it has particles) should also make a hard finish. Mineral oil (liquid paraffin) does not polymerize so stays soft and requires frequent re-application. Drying oils (like walnut/flax) can take a few days. SAFETY: When using a cloth or paper towel to apply walnut or flax oil do not scrunch it up and throw it in the trash, you could spontaneously start a fire (search "linseed fire") Direct application of drying oils to organic substrates (e.g. wood/cotton/linen) has ruined a few paintings, but that is a slow process.
It makes me sad when I hear people say "stay away from wood" or is saying that "end grain" boards are less great. If one do as you say, they'll have a perfect board all their live. And it's not a myth that end grain boards are softer, as woodworkers sees this every day on their tools. :-)
Thank you for the lovely video! I have an unnamed 19X14x1.5 inch end grain board that my dad bought many years ago, but my parents gave up on because it is heavy and hard to clean; instead, they used to put the panini press on it. When I became passionate about cooking I took it. I have been using it for at least 5 years and in that time, thankfully, it barely split and never warped. I scrub it with lemon and bicarb every so often to get rid of smells or stains and oil it with paraffin oil once it's dry enough. I use plastic shelf liner to make the board stick to my worktop. For proteins I use a cheapo plastic board which is not enjoyable to cut on, but it does the job.
Personally I like wood boards - as I find that plastic boards don’t last as the surface gets cut up (so they need to be replaced). If the surface of a wood board gets cut up you can just sand it smooth again. As far as cleaning goes I find wood easier to clean than plastic - but I do treat them with a mixture beeswax+linseed which dries to a smooth hard surface (linseed is a drying oil). Initially boards will absorb a lot of the mixture, but after that they only need slight touch-ups occasionally. Once treated this way wooden boards are basically sealed and do not absorb moisture or smells and wipe clean as easily as a brand new plastic board. In my experience using a drying oil works even better than using a food safe mineral oil - but that is just my preference. Perhaps the only downside is that they are heavy - but personally I like the weight. And I really enjoy your cooking videos they are detailed, clear, and practical - definitely helped me to impress my friends ;)
I'm pretty sure you can sand plastic boards. I recently got a decently nice one and someone was saying in the Amazon reviews that after about 13 years of having it they just used a fine grit sand paper on it and it was good as new. Wood boards are very nice but the maintenance is too much work for me, same reason I use stainless steel pans and not cast iron lol
I have a bamboo board I bought for very cheap at the grocery store 12 years ago. I will confess that I didn’t get around to cleaning it right away for most uses (a sad result of having no dishwasher and numerous dishes piling up all the time. But now I have a dishwasher, thank goodness.) This board has been seen a lot of abuse and it still looks great and is in wonderful shape. But I suppose that’s a good point that it’s pretty hard and would be dulling my knives quicker than a wooden board. Thanks for the insight.
Hi Helen - I use a combination of a hard and heavy PE cuttingboard with feet and a chefs knife from Zwilling 4 - Stern for chopping (parsly, chocolate etc) and a collection af Mac knives only for slicing, using a Hasegawa NSF soft cutting mat on their blue nonslip mat. Works very well 😊 Love your channel - best greetings from Denmark ❤️
As a custom furniture and cabinet maker who is just as comfortable, and take as much pleasure working in the kitchen as I am and do in the shop. I was a dedicated hardwood cutting board guy for many decades until I finally considered other types of cutting board materials. For the past 15 or so years, I've been using a plastic cutting board such as you recommend here and for exactly the same reasons you have discussed.
Try cutting off the feet of the OXO board with a paring knife or razor blade. That's much easier than routing a juice groove into a flat poly board. At home, I use a larger wood board for veg, and lay a smaller OXO board on top for meat only. The OXO board holds fast to the rougher surface of the wood board, and is much easier to clean thoroughly. Love your videos!
Thank you for such straight talking! I use a wooden board tha my grandfather bought (and used) in 1906. It is not quite level in the middle now, but there is so much family history in it...
I have a Boos Block cutting board and it has lasted 11 years without a single problem. I expect it will continue to be in the same condition in another 11 years or more!
#real comment I use a composite bamboo board. It's lighter than wood but has better heat resistance for putting hot casseroles on. They are very easy to clean (by hand). My knives dont dull on them at all. Im loving your lessons by the way, Ive learnt lots. Thankyou ❤ (ps I also use a plastic board exactly like yours and it goes in the dishwasher easily)
Very nice presentation, ma'am. I presently have half-inch NSF plastic boards. Eventually, I'll make another maple board, I really prefer wood. On end-grain boards: they originally were butcher blocks, square lengths of wood glued and banded together, from 8 to 18 inches thick. Butchers re-surfaced them with a block plane when they got too chewed up. Bamboo and composite boards are hard because of the glue used to hold them together. Best wishes from Southern Virginia.
I use Corian cutting boards, left over from the installation of my counter many years ago. I also have a large wooden board, which is very heavy, for dough. I really am learning a lot from your videos, Helen. Thank you!
I am a big fan of end-grain wood cutting boards. I have not found that they are a pain to clean at all. And oiling? Once a year is all they need. Warped like crazy? I've never heard tell of that. Larch Wood Canada make amazing boards. Boos boards seem to be popular with the chefy types. I think bigger is better when it comes to cutting boards. 24" x 14" would be my minimum. I am totally in agreement with your views on bamboo boards!
For wood end grain cutting boards, they need several coats of Boiled Linseed Oil, then several coats of Tung Oil. This finish will last for years, the boards will not warp if used indoors. Problem with Mineral Oil is the Oil does not penetrate the wood enough so needs to be repeatedly applied. Linseed Oil penetrates up to a 1/4", but is only water resistant, Tung Oil only penetrates maybe 1/64" but is hard durable and water proof. Both Tung and Linseed Oils are food safe, but will not stand up to a dishwasher. I live in Canada where it is bone dry in the Winter, and 80% humidity in the summer, with no issues. I am a woodworker so I prefer Wood, but the convenience of plastic is hard to beat.
I use my little bamboo board for cutting raw meat b/c it seems impenetrable. There's very little contact between knife and board, so no problem with blunting. My edge grain wood board is for dry stuff such as slicing bread b/c wet clean-up's a bit of a pain. I have a mid-sized composite for vegetables & fruit, stabilize with a little silicone sheet (that's otherwise useless) and a large end-grain butcher's block that only comes out for big cooks when I need a lot of room on the board.
I just got a new cutting board, acacia, but thought I'd comment on my experiences with bamboo, as I have two, a smaller one I use more as a bread board or serving board, and the larger one that's been my primary cutting board for nearly 7 years. Bamboo is hard, but not mercilessly so. I hone every time I use a knife, and I sharpen the whole collection twice a year, and as necessary. It's heavy like wood, so very stable, but kind of heavy to bring to the sink to clean, HOWEVER, it's damned near warp proof, so I can wash and set it to dry, very much reducing my time and effort to clean. It's also extremely resistant to color and smell staining, I regularly cut beets and kimchi on my board, and those wash off as easy as cheese. The beets can leave a tad bit of stain if you leave them for a long time, but it will fade with washing... and why would you do that? They're fairly quiet to cut on, and take very little damage from your knives. In 7 years, I still don't feel the need to sand the surface. I only oil it twice a year too. Honestly, my new board I just tried out tonight, and ran into an issue I've never had before on any of my cutting boards, the food moves. The surface is so smooth and hard, and I oiled it after cleaning it when it came home, my onions slid as I was cutting. That's scary as hell! That has never been an issue before on my maple cutting board or my plastic boards, nor my bamboo. My cai dao is a razor, if I nick myself with that knife, I'm taking off a knuckle, I can't have food sliding. The board has nice feedback on the knife, but it also clearly showed where I was cutting, though, that cleaver also left the most egregious clefts in my bamboo board too. So even though I just acquired this nice looking, slightly larger, wood board, I might be on my way back to my bamboo as my bamboo board if I can't figure out this food glide problem. If that board can't grip an onion, how am I ever going to trim a pork belly or dice fat for rendering lard? Final note, I use rubber shelf liner as my board stabilizer, works great for every material, easy to wash if it gets dirty, and cheap enough to replace if it gets really dirty. That way I'm not introducing any excess moisture to my boards no matter how well they'd respond. They get washed, that's water enough.
I use a variety of cutting boards depending on what I'm cooking. For fish and shellfish it's hard to beat a plastic board for ease of cleaning. I have a large one similar to the one in your video. For meats and poultry I use an edge grain board with a groove or channel cut around the outside edge to help contain juices. I do use a separate edge grain board for fruit and vegetables (my wife is vegetarian). As far as end grain boards go, we've had one for 20+ years and use it almost every day! I oil it a couple of times a year and never submerge it in water. Occasionally I use a very light sandpaper to touch up the surface before oiling. It's never cracked or warped. Of course it's almost 3 inches thick!
I had an end grain walnut board made for me 12 years ago. It’s never warped and is used daily. I do use a butcher block wax and oil, but only every month or so when I think of it. Looks as beautiful as the day I brought it home.
I use a wooden board. Reason is probably a combination of because that’s what my parents used and because I like the look and feel. There is slight warping that happens, especially with cheaper ones I’ve used, but I flip the board each time I use it and it’s never caused a problem.
I have five different plastic boards, (high density polyethylene) in various sizes and I cut everything on them. One of my hobbies I love is woodworking and built lots of both edge grain and end grain cutting boards They're really beautiful and make the perfect gift for the home cook! I found that on the end grain boards if they're made using lots of little pieces, they're more prone to warping. As far as putting something under your wood boards to keep them from sliding around, I been using those drawer liners that you can find at almost all the dollar stores. Being one dollar the price is definitely right and they're made of some kind of rubber material that will not absorb water and they have just enough grip that your boards will not move around. When I build my wood boards especially the end grain ones, I make my own coating for them out of mineral oil and snd a small chunk of bees wax. I heat this mixture slightly on the stove until the bees wax melts. I put on several coats a day until after a few days, it won't take any more. I then buff them out with lots of elbow grease and the friction will melt the bees wax into the wood pores and really seals it up. I just found your channel and so far I really love what your doing. Keep those RUclips videos coming!!
I have a wood carving board where one side is angled down to catch juices, etc. I like it for also doing small veggies, like green onions. Keeps them from rolling all over the board. Then when I need a flat surface, I flip it over. I have some of those color coded, thin plastic ones I then use for things that might stain, fish, and usually even raw meats since they're easier to clean.
Great info! I once got a small bamboo cutting board as a gift and didn't know you shouldn't put them in the dishwasher. After a few months of light use, it split clean in half. Lesson learned, I'm sticking to my simple plastic cutting boards.
I like to cut veggies and fruit on wooden Boos boards, then use plastic for meats and fish, beets, etc. Being able to wash the plastic board in the dishwasher is a plus. I have a Joyce Chen two-sided plastic board that I really appreciate.
End-grain board: we periodically clean with white vinegar, let it dry overnight, then apply copious amount of Heavy Mineral Oil USP. Over time the wood gets saturated and absorbs less oil. Easy to keep clean, (never sticky), looks great, perfect surface for cutting.
Plastic cutting boards are usually high-grade HDPE, so are ideal for cutting into various shaped insulators for your super-high voltage experiments. (I use a bamboo board for kitchen; meat one side, veg the other. Use it, then wash and dry it before starting the cooking)
You can also use dawns antibacterial dish soap for anything that had poultry on it. I use it whenever I’ve dealt with meat. Highly recommend since my dishwasher is currently broken. I also use it when cleaning my sink to make sure it’s disinfected.
How do you feel about the thin plastic cutting mats? We've been using them with no apparent problems, and if you cut through one, you can just throw it away. I like the fact you can roll them to dump your ingredients right into the pot, rather than scraping a board.
I have a couple of end grain wood boards. I don't use them. They're for decoration of using to serve food with which doesn't require me to clean the board after. I have less expensive edge grain boards that I like to use. Bamboo boards work well for me regardless of what was said. But, I don't expect them to last forever, and they're typically less expensive so it's a cost issue along with being able to leave it out because it's not ugly. Since I sharpen my blades more often I really don't notice dulling. They don't seem any harder than the plastic boards I have, maybe a tiny bit. No they can't go into the dishwasher, but they also don't need much oiling. If I want to go through bone, the bamboo boards are the ONLY ones I feel OK about being under the meat because I don't expect them to last forever. For plastic or other wood boards, once I grab a cleaver I'm going to put scars even in a plastic board. And then I don't like it and want to toss it because of the scratchy surface. With bamboo, I know I'm going to replace it eventually and don't care about scars from a cleaver. The harder surface in my mind allows the cleaver to go through the bone more cleanly
I have been sharpening knives for home cooks & private chefs for over 10 years. I recommend bamboo cutting boards because I feel they have a little more give than hard wood boards. To keep them from sliding I use a piece of rubberized drawer liner about the size of a paper towel. No matter what board you use, proper knife skills are a must.
I have a professional set of Cangshan Knives 🔪 and some Dalstrong Knives/Cleaver (Gladiator). About $400-500 invested in good kitchen knives of various sorts that I use. So I’m watching your entire series to better care for my knives overall. When my knives feel happy sharp, I feel much better in using them to slice and dice. And it just improves my mood while doing food preparation. I Use an Edge Board.
I use a "fiberboard" ....it may be what you call composite Helen but, I have expensive knives and I don't feel they dull my knives any more or less than other types! (of course I hone them with a ceramic honing rod every day) Only problem of course is keeping them stable on a granite countertop! Answer; double up on some old thicker rubber computer mouse pads and "voila!" Hope that was helpful. Ciao bella! Love your vids, BTW!
Helen, for most things I use one of those cheap flexible plastic cutting surfaces. On a section of my counter where I do most of my work, I permanently have Duck Non-Adhesive Shelf Liner Solid Grip EasyLiner, a thin spongy material, which protects the counter. With this beneath the flexible cutting plastic, I think it's a great surface for cutting and chopping. Cheap, lightweight, easy to wash. And you can easily crease the edges to keep stuff from scattering. I use my wooden cutting boards only for bread these days.
I have 2 wooden bords and one plastic, the wooden bords I bought one Ikea over 35 years ago, and the plastic board I got from my parents when I moved from home. I use the woodenbords for fish and meat , and the plasticbord for vegtebles, I have always wasched them by hand right after use. No problem , what so ever. I am an educated chief, and has worked in the profession one and of , since 1986, when I left the cooking school , but has sevrel other occupations as well.
#realcomment I have a bamboo board that I have used for twenty years with no problems, instead of using damp paper ( as my board is in continuous use and seldom leaves bench) I use a computer mouse mat trimmed to slightly smaller than the board. It is an excellent non slip surface.
I have a small maple Boos block and a plastic board similar to yours. I use plastic for meat, chicken, etc. Wood for vegetables. I find the best way to dry the wood board is to drain off the water in the sink and then place standing up on the counter, so air can circulate around both sides. I also use the Boos oil & cream. Really makes a difference in keeping the wood from getting too dehydrated. Kind of like putting hand cream on dry skin!
I have plastic, bamboo and one wood board. I was crazy about bamboo boards because of their aesthetic and the fact that they are sustainable. However, I am realizing they are really hard on my knives. But they are so nice-looking and sustainable, I am kinda hurt, awe!
I use a plastic board for both raw and cooked meats/fish and a wooden end grain one we got as a gift for everything else. It's held up really well though, no warping whatsoever which, hearing what you said is surprising, it's pretty small though, so maybe that is to it's benefit for it to not warp so much? But I will be upgrading soon to a much larger edge grain for ease of care.
2 bamboo both small, 2 edge medium in size, 1 large composite wood, 1 very large edge wood. The smallest bamboo is my lunch board used for making salad and sandwiches. Next size up bamboo is my vegetables for dinner board. I use the 2 edge boards for same purpose or for meat cutting. The large composite is for turning whole loins, tenderloins, ribeyes, etc... in smaller steaks for vacuum bagging and then to freezer. The very large edge is for fish. I fish and then cut up my catch on that board.
I have a 3" thick walnut endgrain cutting board. I made it with scraps. Never had a problem with warping. I love it. The mass gives an extra crisp cut. My wife won't use it because it is too heavy she says. :^(
I have had a homemade end grain cutting board for 10 years and it's just as flat as new. I love it and wouldn't use anything else, and as you said it's great for your knives.
i have grown up using wood cutting boards, and refuse to change. i bloody love mine, because it is about 10 years old, and still works. it (i think) gives my entire kitchen a almost woody smell that i just love. i really want to keep using wood forever. its much nicer
Close to a decade on mine. Got it at the local Meijer grocery store and refuse to use anything else. My wife has gone through numerous plastic and wood boards, but the bamboo just keeps going. I didn’t even know I was supposed to oil it. I just rinse it down with hot soapy water and it’s good as new when I next pull it out. Of course, I’m a heathen and use CutCo knives that shouldn’t be sharpened. Home cooking versus professional… 😅
#realcomment in my experience, those plastic boards with those terrible little grooves in them are the worst. And to add to the problem, over a few months, my knives would make these grooves deeper somehow, and then I would end up with this big patch of extremely rough plastic in the middle of my board. And no matter how hard I tried, with the hand washing and drying, that patch in the center was always discolored and disgusting. And brown. And probably food safe, yes, but I could still FEEL the bacteria there. I switched to an edge grain after that, and it's been 6 years now. :)
Me too, my plastic boards get messed up like yours. I expect they are near their end of their life cycle, and I best replace them before bits of plastic get sliced into my food. I don't have room to store a nice thick edge grain board in my small kitchen. At least, no room for the size I would need. LOL!
Great evaluation... I've preferred plastic boards for years. They are gentle on my knives, become clean, smell- and stain-free in the dishwasher and have "feet" that keep them skid-free on the counter. I use several different colors and sizes, depending upon my food and are ergonomically shaped. They're made by Dexas and I buy them from my local Bed, Bath and Beyond. Thanks!
I just found your channel! I love your style and your voice. I wish I lived close so I could take a “live” class. You are an amazing teacher. You should have a show on the food network!
I have an OXO board which I use every day and also a super heavy teak board. The teak board was purchased first and I loved it... but then I got the OXO board, maybe 7 plus years ago, and I've used it exclusively ever since. The teak board sits in the pantry :( Maybe I should start using it again but just for veggies!
I have an end grain wood board that I love. It is a monster in terms of weight, but I don't find cleaning it that much of a hassle. I can give it a quick scrub with a scouring pad in soapy water and then dry it off with a tea towel and it's done. It has some stains, but I don't find smell retention is a problem. I use the board for cutting and for rolling out dough. It hasn't warped on me and I'm in the UK - probably one of the dampest places on Earth. I do have a couple of polythene boards but they don't feel as nice to me when I'm cutting on them. Like most things, it often comes down to personal preference.
Helen, I love your videos. Very practical, informative and entertaining. I put small soft rubber feet on my wood cutting board to prevent slipping. When I cut protein I put down 2 or 3 sheets of slightly damp parchment paper. If I happen to cut through them or not, like you hot soapy and a run in the dishwasher works great.
I recommend Asahi synthetic rubber boards from Japan. Many famous chefs there use it. They are soft, non-absorbent, dishwasher safe, and maintenance-free. But they feel just like wooden boards!
@@leonardberger6752 I would say they are good all-purpose boards except for hacking bones which can leave some cutting marks. But the best thing of these boards are, you can just use some sandpaper to remove one layer and they are like new again. Check this oue: ruclips.net/video/YRSLrp4_WQE/видео.html
Here in Oz we also have acacia composite boards (thorntree) and camphor laurel boards (the trees are declared weeds so woodworkers have lots to work with and I've never smelled or tasted camphor on food). I've had both for 10-15 years in each case and have no problems. I don't oil them and have never had any hygiene problems with a hot water and detergent clean up. The weight is there but I choose to look on the bright side and regard it as weight lifting without gym membership fees ;) (I can't do the same with Chasseur saucepans any more, they really are too heavy)
Great video. Lots of good tips. As for stabilizing my cutting board, I just use a clean, dry tea towel. And, while I really like the idea of end grain, all my cutting boards are plastic.
I use end grains bamboo board, but I was also adding rubber 1/2 inch high, rubber legs on screws, keeping my board dry and added stability. For me working good.
A couple things not mentioned: 1) Some people feel that bamboo, and woods like acacia and teak, contain silica that dull knives faster. Others feel there isn't enough to matter. 2) I read somewhere that the only cutting board material approved by the NSF for use in commercial kitchens is hard rubber. It's not very attractive, but I imagine it's as low-maintenance as a board can be. As for what I use, I have two edge-grain boards made of hinoki, a soft Japanese cypress wood, and a few smaller plastic boards when I don't need that much surface area. I considered buying an end-grain board, but they're too high-maintenance for me, and they don't seem to be any gentler on knives than hinoki. Hinoki is also naturally anti-bacterial, but they are easily damaged (don't use serrated knives!), and boards thicker than 1/2" are very expensive and not sold in a lot of places. I'm still using 1/2" boards, but one of these days I'll graduate to a hinoki board that's heavy enough to stay put on its own.
I use a heavy 2" thick walnut end grain cutting board. I don't baby it much, and it has remained perfectly flat. I find that wood grain cutting boards don't come nearly oiled enough, so I kept spreading a thick layer of mineral oil over it once or twice a day until it stopped absorbing it. I maintain it with a butcher block conditioner that is just oils (mostly mineral oil) and beeswax. I wash it in the sink, which is optional but easy enough and fast. I dry it immediately, and I add a coat of conditioner when the surface starts to look a little dry. I've used every type of board you mentioned, and this one has been my favorite by far. The only kind of board I haven't tried is the rubber cutting boards, though I would like to get one.
I got bamboo boards because they are very light and I read that they are far more bacteria safe than other wood boards. After watching your video I’m going to research this again. Also, aesthetically, they are pleasing to the touch, which is even more important ( to my surprise) than how pretty they look.
#realcomment I made my own end grain cutting board. It wasn't perfectly flat on top to begin with, but I installed rubber feet on the bottom so it's very stable and doesn't move. I made it a little smaller and thinner than most commercially available end grain cutting boards, which makes washing easier. I have no concerns cutting meat or fish on the cutting board.
to dry your wood cutting board: immediate to rinsing: take silicone spatula and squeegee off the water: you will not even need to use a drying cloth unless your board has a drip channel around the edge where the spatula will not reach. on a flat board with no groove around the edge you can remove every drop of water by working from one side to the other . easy peasy. any silicone spatula with a straight edge or a spoon spatula with straight sides not a round spoonula. the squeegee action removes all loose water, a quick wipe finishes the job and then air dry for complete drying.
I've been using bamboo boards for several years. I don't use a dishwasher anyway. I wash by hand & oil every few months. They don't seem to dull my knives. I haven't had to sharpen my Dalstrong or Kyoko Damascus knives for several months. By the way, Bamboo is not wood; it's actually a type of grass. I don't think Bamboo is as hard as wood cutting boards; when I oil them, the oil soaks in quickly.
I switched to plastic cutting boards over twenty years ago. I regularly spritz them with Clorox Cleanup and put them into the dishwasher. They are still usable and still white.
I love my wood boards, but am open minded. I think I will purchase the plastic one you recommend on your channel link. I will try it for at least 6 months and let you know what I think about it.
Glad you like your HDPE plastic cutting boards. I am in the plastic business and have a small side business making cutting boards. From a practicality and functional perspective, HDPE is clearly the best. That's why virtually all commercial kitchens and food processors use them. But I sell both plastic and wood. Wood is so good looking, and can convert to an attractive serving board or surface - and does work well as a cutting surface as well. You are right about cleaning the wood boards as soon after use as possible - but if it's a little while after - no problem. I think food grade mineral oil is best for maintaining wood boards. Love your channel.
I wish I discovered this channel earlier. My problem with the rubber sides on a plastic cutting board applies to thinner boards, and that is when chopping, the board have some give and for me this affects the cutting action of the knife. When I use a rocking action with a blade, the board gives and as I do this a lot and the blade gets a little duller, the cuts aren't as clean. I removed the rubber on the board I had that included, use a towel underneath and much better now.
I have a thick end grain cutting board. But its round and just one piece of wood, (probably just a slice of a tree). Its a dark hardwood (ironwood i think?). I have had no issues with warping (i think because it is thick, all one piece of wood, and i store it on its side). I use it daily and have had it for 10ish years. Heavy enough that it doesn't slide around. Has a handle bolted on the side which makes cleaning it super easy. Cannot recomend enough
First off - thanks, beautiful series of videos, and great addressing of different subjects. Now I think you could go just a little deeper and list a few KINDS of materials within the very general "Plastic". There are very different plastics with very different attributes. For instance, I have an old cutting board that is made of Teflon I think one of the boards you showed (the first white one) is similar. And it has the "Teflon" auto-lubrication advantage (it somewhat rejects water, and does not absorb smells and liquids) but it loses some of this attribute when scratched by ongoing cuts with the knife. Bamboo is quite hard, and has very definite "direction" to its grain, and so your knife behaves differently at different angles. I find bamboo to be the "cleanest" of them all - as it just repels everything. You can't use it in dishwasher though, it's ruined by it. One thing I couldn't understand - in my experience those "blocked" end-grain boards were much harder than my normal long grain board. dunno. Maybe I missed something.
I use a one piece wood board (medium) and when I cut meat or beets, I use a very thin sheet of plastic "board" placed on top of my wood board. So cutting is soft. The plastic sheet boards have a sticky back so they stay in place. I use one I have had for years and I throw in the dishwasher. Hasn't warped yet.
Great video, but I think your pros and cons grid around 1:09 has the wood pros in the cons box and vice versa! Just mentioning it constructively, as I am sure this was missed! Again really enjoyed the video though. Thanks for the great content - keep it up!
I only use my bamboo board to slice my different types of homemade bread on. The majority of people in my country don't use dishwashers. My bamboo board is thin, half inch maybe, so it dries in the dish drainer.
I have edge grain wooden boards and, also, plastic boards. My favorite is one of the plastic boards because of its size, handle and when I cut meat on it I can throw it in the dishwasher. I've tried the composite boards but the noise when chopping was unbearable. I tried bamboo but, like you, I find bamboo dulls my knives faster (and it's too noisy) I do use them though. I made them into a book press. For that, they are perfect! :)
I have cut my first vegetables as a small child on my moms standard IKEA plastic board. The white 1,99€ thing everyone knows. I got older and my family invested in better (more expensive) boards. They all where either too big or too small for me, needed hand-cleaning, slipped on the countertop or annoyed me in an other way. When I moved out, My husband (well then he was my boyfriend) bought me two standard plastic IKEA cutting boards. And we lived happily ever after.
My wood cutting board is precious to me. I made for my mother 47 years ago. It's laminated sidegrain alternating Oak and Mahogany. At the time it seemed to me that the wood cost a fortune (I earned my own money when I was a kid). It is 2 inches thick (~ 5 cm) X 16 X 20. When she past away it became mine. It is well used and well cared for. It may be in my family another 50+ years. We cook all the time and also use plastic (nylon) boards as well and one of those is 30 years old with a shallow blood groove around the outer edge... My son is a professional chief... the wood board will go to him. Your remark about the sound of chopping on wood is truly emotive. Sounds in a kitchen are as exciting as the aromas! I just had to subscribe. ;-)
I appreciate that you give us real everyday advice. Instead of snobby follow the crowd hard to maintain nonsense
I use rubberised mesh sheets to keep boards from slipping. Works for wood or plastic boards, on any kind of surface, and has 101 other uses[*]. It usually stays clean as it is obscured by the board, but can be washed if needed. comes in a roll and is cheap and easy to cut to size.
* comes in handy when opening jars,
* I use it, or a silicone baking sheet, to secure my pasta roller, far superior to the small built in rubber feet,
* secures my marble tempering slab,
* I place them under place mats and trays so that the [very young] kids cannot t inadvertently pull things off the table,
* also works as a handy buffer when I need to place a heavy glass object on my hard granite surfaces,
* can be used as a non-slip surface in the bath (esp. for young children and the elderly).
You can rub garlic between them to husk off the skins, too.
Yes, I find this material very useful. I get it at the local dollar store, where it's labeled "shelf liner".
I don't use wooden boards but the one important thing you forgot to mention is how to determine when to change a cutting board whether it's plastic, wood, or any other material. I love your channel! New subscriber here.
I have binged a lot of your videos tonight, and I just want to say, you are the best channel out there! So informative and I can't get enough of you. Thank you so much for starting this channel. You are truly amazing!
Very true. I’m a keen home cook and Helen is the best.
Me nervously chuckling with my bamboo boards
I.. I got them as a gift 👁️👄👁️.... Gotta use them
Only my second video by Helen, but when she said that the wooden cutting board was "a pain in de ass to clean!" - she had me for life as a viewer. I find it so refreshing to see that kind of genuine quality in a review. Good work on this one, Helen!
I made my own end-grain, hard maple cutting board almost twenty years ago on the theory that the old-timey butcher block tables probably were on to something. My counter top version is 1 5/8 inches thick with hard plastic, chair-leg feet. When new, it got coats and coats of olive oil on both sides. I only stopped when the oil stopped soaking in. These days when a dry spot develops on the cutting surface it gets mineral oil. After each use, the board is wiped clean with a wet dishrag. If proteins were involved that dishrag is hot and soapy, followed by rinsing the cutting surface under the faucet tap and sopping up visible water with the rinsed dishrag. Once a month or so I wipe the cutting surface with a weak bleach solution. Maybe I've just been lucky, but there's never been a problem with anyone getting sick, and my knives have been very happy.
To cut something staining like beets on a wood board, I just wet the surface a bit first, then rinse it promptly afterward.
A bristle brush works very well to clean my cutting boards which are all edge-grain wood.
I have a counter that makes slipping difficult, but on previous counters I would use a porous drawer liner under the cutting board. I cut it a little smaller than my favorite cutting board and it worked wonderfully and felt very tidy.
I've picked up a lot of tips from your excellent videos, but I have to point something out: You shouldn't use canola or other vegetable oils on a wooden cutting board, simply because those oils become rancid due to oxidation. Food-grade mineral oil is the protectant of choice.
Can you give examples of mineral oil?
@@RoseLe
Google is your friend. There are lots of brands - It's simply known as "food-grade mineral oil". Regular mineral oil can be toxic, but the food-grade stuff is safe for food contact.
@@RoseLe Walmart. Few bucks. In the laxative aisle. I mix with beeswax to make my own board butters. I use a Boos walnut edge grain. No warping and keeps my very expensive knives from dulling.
@@mestizoboy Any mineral oil that you can buy in the OTC area of a grocery store, drug store or Walmart or similar place is perfectly safe for this kind of use and no you don't need to spend endless hours trying to research a specific brand. It wouldn't be sold in this section if it were dangerous. Any sold in these sections are, straight from Wikipedia:
classified group 3 as not suspected to be carcinogenic, from known available information sufficient to classify them as harmless.
Now, this is what people know to be "regular mineral oil"
There are OTHER mineral oils that can be bought, mainly for industrial use, but not for food equipment, that are not safe, and ca irritate the skin.
In RARE cases, the use of mineral oil that you buy over the counter can irritate a small percentage of human's skin. What they will NEVER do is be toxic when you use them on a board and you have allowed the oil to soak into the wood. Mineral oil can be ingested, which means that the TINY bit of oil that could possibly wick out onto the food, very unlikely, is totally harmless.
Yes, Google is your friend as long as you use it correctly and don't follow the trail of conspiracy or overly cautious humans that want to blame ANYTHING for something that happened to ANYONE, without REAL data to back up what they're saying.
I have to tell you, I was going to get rid of my big, plastic cutting board, until I really studied your video. My forever cutting board thanks you! 😊
One board is straight grain at 1 1/2 inches thick. One is end grain at 1 1/4 inches thick. Have had both forever - no splitting or warping. I do not baby the boards at all. A few stains add to their 'character': wood is so very natural to the senses. I have never owned a plastic board. (I do not own plastic dishes or storage containers either) I will soon open a small cafe in central MA. My background is business. Food service is new to me. I have observed at several area restaurants. They all use plastic boards for the reasons you mentioned. I have decided to use wood (epoxy sealed) as table tops in the dining area...and plastic for all cutting boards. Thanks for your insights.
I am a wood cutting board guy, I like to tinker around with wood working and when I collect enough scraps (i.e. mistakes), which is pretty quick and often with my wood working skill's :o) I make a new cutting board/cheese board/serving tray etc... They also make good gifts, all my neighbors have one, as do my family and even a number of my Coe workers... did I mention that I am not a very good wood worker.
Just keep at it, friend! And be careful not to get to.... board... lol
But you are generous ❤️🤗
Go to woodprix if you'd like to know how to make it easy. Good solution for every woodworker.
My plastic board is similar to the one Helen uses and it is my go to board. My wooden bard is America's Test Kitchen's favorite Proteak 18x20 board. It weighs 15 lbs so it does not move and it is beautiful when not being used. Excellent video!.
I have a bamboo carving board.
It's fine for carving as the carving knife rarely even touches the board.
I also use it when I want to chop with my vegetable cleaver. I've found that that knife is aggressive enough to damage softer cutting boards. And the cleaver can stand a bit of abuse from the harder surface. Right tool for the right job.
I most definitely shift over to a less hard board when chopping with sharper and less durable knives.
#realcomment Over the years, my lovely maple boards, never seen a dishwasher, eventually split along the lamination line; or warp. My best, favorite, cutting board is bamboo. It cleans easily, is light but not too light, food doesn't slide on it. I have three bamboo boards of different sizes, and the smaller ones I use for serving things like cheese. I also use a plastic board for cutting slippery foods like chicken or pork, and I can just pop it in the sink while I continue preparing vegetables on my bamboo board. p.s. my knives have never seen the inside of a dishwasher, either!
Like you I use a bamboo board for cheese, It is lovely and light.
I bought a teak cutting board, sanded it, and added a few coats of Tried & True Danish Oil. Loving it so far. Probably will do the same with an end-grain board soon.
My wood board was the one I grew up with, and I'm 70. It is warped, but I am so used to it. I have tried removing the warp, but have been unsuccessful. It's about 1" thick. I use it for veggies only, never meat or seafood. My plastic board is, um, 25 years old? I use this one for seafood and meat and put it in the dishwasher. It looks very much like yours. I also have a much smaller wood board used for breads only, also one I grew up with. The green paint on the edges has been slowly disappearing. I enjoy your teaching videos. Thank you.
Helen, I wish I lived in Boston! My work around is to view everything you’ve done on RUclips and share your videos with everyone I know! Your opinions are so well delivered and explained. Thank you for sharing your hard-earned lessons with us.
#realcomment End grain should be oiled so much that water can't affect it. You shouldn't use organic oils (like canola mentioned) for cutting boards, engine oil, on bearings etc because it turns rancid and gummy. Food grade mineral oil is cheap! I don't wash my end grain in a sink; I spray it with white vinegar and wipe it with a paper towel immediately.
Thanks for letting me know that it should be mineral oil.
mad thumbs I use drying oils (usually linseed though you can use walnut also) combined with beeswax on my wooden cutting boards. I oil the boards thoroughly when new they will take a lot of oil at this time. Then occasionally I give them a little wipe if they need it (not often). The drying oils seal the board surface as they will go hard (almost like a plastic or varnish). The boards clean very very easily and do not hold any smells. I have both end grain (my preference) side grain, oiling works equally well for both. I generally use beeswax+linseed for boards and beeswax+walnut for smaller more delicate items like wooden spoons/spatulas.
My experience with plastic boards is that they get cut up real quick and need to be replaced - hence I personally prefer wood.
Personally not a fan of mineral oil - but that is just me...
@@jomsies Food grade flax seed oil (filtered through a coffee filter if it has particles) should also make a hard finish. Mineral oil (liquid paraffin) does not polymerize so stays soft and requires frequent re-application. Drying oils (like walnut/flax) can take a few days.
SAFETY: When using a cloth or paper towel to apply walnut or flax oil do not scrunch it up and throw it in the trash, you could spontaneously start a fire (search "linseed fire")
Direct application of drying oils to organic substrates (e.g. wood/cotton/linen) has ruined a few paintings, but that is a slow process.
Oil wood with Ballistol Universal oil!
It makes me sad when I hear people say "stay away from wood" or is saying that "end grain" boards are less great.
If one do as you say, they'll have a perfect board all their live. And it's not a myth that end grain boards are softer, as woodworkers sees this every day on their tools. :-)
Thank you for the lovely video!
I have an unnamed 19X14x1.5 inch end grain board that my dad bought many years ago, but my parents gave up on because it is heavy and hard to clean; instead, they used to put the panini press on it. When I became passionate about cooking I took it. I have been using it for at least 5 years and in that time, thankfully, it barely split and never warped. I scrub it with lemon and bicarb every so often to get rid of smells or stains and oil it with paraffin oil once it's dry enough.
I use plastic shelf liner to make the board stick to my worktop.
For proteins I use a cheapo plastic board which is not enjoyable to cut on, but it does the job.
Personally I like wood boards - as I find that plastic boards don’t last as the surface gets cut up (so they need to be replaced). If the surface of a wood board gets cut up you can just sand it smooth again. As far as cleaning goes I find wood easier to clean than plastic - but I do treat them with a mixture beeswax+linseed which dries to a smooth hard surface (linseed is a drying oil). Initially boards will absorb a lot of the mixture, but after that they only need slight touch-ups occasionally. Once treated this way wooden boards are basically sealed and do not absorb moisture or smells and wipe clean as easily as a brand new plastic board. In my experience using a drying oil works even better than using a food safe mineral oil - but that is just my preference.
Perhaps the only downside is that they are heavy - but personally I like the weight.
And I really enjoy your cooking videos they are detailed, clear, and practical - definitely helped me to impress my friends ;)
I'm pretty sure you can sand plastic boards. I recently got a decently nice one and someone was saying in the Amazon reviews that after about 13 years of having it they just used a fine grit sand paper on it and it was good as new. Wood boards are very nice but the maintenance is too much work for me, same reason I use stainless steel pans and not cast iron lol
They actually make a plastic board resurfacing tool, used it several times in my decades of restaurant work
I have a bamboo board I bought for very cheap at the grocery store 12 years ago. I will confess that I didn’t get around to cleaning it right away for most uses (a sad result of having no dishwasher and numerous dishes piling up all the time. But now I have a dishwasher, thank goodness.) This board has been seen a lot of abuse and it still looks great and is in wonderful shape. But I suppose that’s a good point that it’s pretty hard and would be dulling my knives quicker than a wooden board. Thanks for the insight.
Hi Helen - I use a combination of a hard and heavy PE cuttingboard with feet and a chefs knife from Zwilling 4 - Stern for chopping (parsly, chocolate etc) and a collection af Mac knives only for slicing, using a Hasegawa NSF soft cutting mat on their blue nonslip mat. Works very well 😊 Love your channel - best greetings from Denmark ❤️
As a custom furniture and cabinet maker who is just as comfortable, and take as much pleasure working in the kitchen as I am and do in the shop. I was a dedicated hardwood cutting board guy for many decades until I finally considered other types of cutting board materials. For the past 15 or so years, I've been using a plastic cutting board such as you recommend here and for exactly the same reasons you have discussed.
Try cutting off the feet of the OXO board with a paring knife or razor blade. That's much easier than routing a juice groove into a flat poly board.
At home, I use a larger wood board for veg, and lay a smaller OXO board on top for meat only. The OXO board holds fast to the rougher surface of the wood board, and is much easier to clean thoroughly.
Love your videos!
Thank you for such straight talking! I use a wooden board tha my grandfather bought (and used) in 1906. It is not quite level in the middle now, but there is so much family history in it...
I have a Boos Block cutting board and it has lasted 11 years without a single problem. I expect it will continue to be in the same condition in another 11 years or more!
#real comment
I use a composite bamboo board. It's lighter than wood but has better heat resistance for putting hot casseroles on. They are very easy to clean (by hand). My knives dont dull on them at all.
Im loving your lessons by the way, Ive learnt lots. Thankyou ❤ (ps I also use a plastic board exactly like yours and it goes in the dishwasher easily)
Very nice presentation, ma'am. I presently have half-inch NSF plastic boards. Eventually, I'll make another maple board, I really prefer wood. On end-grain boards: they originally were butcher blocks, square lengths of wood glued and banded together, from 8 to 18 inches thick. Butchers re-surfaced them with a block plane when they got too chewed up. Bamboo and composite boards are hard because of the glue used to hold them together. Best wishes from Southern Virginia.
I bought your fa p plastic board. I’ve had the same Boos board (end grain) for thirty three years. I love them both.
I love my new Teak cutting board and the older bamboo boards I have.. never liked plastic boards when I worked in restaurants
I use Corian cutting boards, left over from the installation of my counter many years ago. I also have a large wooden board, which is very heavy, for dough. I really am learning a lot from your videos, Helen. Thank you!
Oh no, not the Corian. That is so hard on your knives.
I am a big fan of end-grain wood cutting boards. I have not found that they are a pain to clean at all. And oiling? Once a year is all they need. Warped like crazy? I've never heard tell of that. Larch Wood Canada make amazing boards. Boos boards seem to be popular with the chefy types. I think bigger is better when it comes to cutting boards. 24" x 14" would be my minimum. I am totally in agreement with your views on bamboo boards!
For wood end grain cutting boards, they need several coats of Boiled Linseed Oil, then several coats of Tung Oil. This finish will last for years, the boards will not warp if used indoors. Problem with Mineral Oil is the Oil does not penetrate the wood enough so needs to be repeatedly applied. Linseed Oil penetrates up to a 1/4", but is only water resistant, Tung Oil only penetrates maybe 1/64" but is hard durable and water proof.
Both Tung and Linseed Oils are food safe, but will not stand up to a dishwasher.
I live in Canada where it is bone dry in the Winter, and 80% humidity in the summer, with no issues.
I am a woodworker so I prefer Wood, but the convenience of plastic is hard to beat.
I use my little bamboo board for cutting raw meat b/c it seems impenetrable. There's very little contact between knife and board, so no problem with blunting. My edge grain wood board is for dry stuff such as slicing bread b/c wet clean-up's a bit of a pain. I have a mid-sized composite for vegetables & fruit, stabilize with a little silicone sheet (that's otherwise useless) and a large end-grain butcher's block that only comes out for big cooks when I need a lot of room on the board.
I just got a new cutting board, acacia, but thought I'd comment on my experiences with bamboo, as I have two, a smaller one I use more as a bread board or serving board, and the larger one that's been my primary cutting board for nearly 7 years.
Bamboo is hard, but not mercilessly so. I hone every time I use a knife, and I sharpen the whole collection twice a year, and as necessary. It's heavy like wood, so very stable, but kind of heavy to bring to the sink to clean, HOWEVER, it's damned near warp proof, so I can wash and set it to dry, very much reducing my time and effort to clean. It's also extremely resistant to color and smell staining, I regularly cut beets and kimchi on my board, and those wash off as easy as cheese. The beets can leave a tad bit of stain if you leave them for a long time, but it will fade with washing... and why would you do that? They're fairly quiet to cut on, and take very little damage from your knives. In 7 years, I still don't feel the need to sand the surface. I only oil it twice a year too.
Honestly, my new board I just tried out tonight, and ran into an issue I've never had before on any of my cutting boards, the food moves. The surface is so smooth and hard, and I oiled it after cleaning it when it came home, my onions slid as I was cutting. That's scary as hell! That has never been an issue before on my maple cutting board or my plastic boards, nor my bamboo. My cai dao is a razor, if I nick myself with that knife, I'm taking off a knuckle, I can't have food sliding. The board has nice feedback on the knife, but it also clearly showed where I was cutting, though, that cleaver also left the most egregious clefts in my bamboo board too. So even though I just acquired this nice looking, slightly larger, wood board, I might be on my way back to my bamboo as my bamboo board if I can't figure out this food glide problem. If that board can't grip an onion, how am I ever going to trim a pork belly or dice fat for rendering lard?
Final note, I use rubber shelf liner as my board stabilizer, works great for every material, easy to wash if it gets dirty, and cheap enough to replace if it gets really dirty. That way I'm not introducing any excess moisture to my boards no matter how well they'd respond. They get washed, that's water enough.
I use a variety of cutting boards depending on what I'm cooking. For fish and shellfish it's hard to beat a plastic board for ease of cleaning. I have a large one similar to the one in your video. For meats and poultry I use an edge grain board with a groove or channel cut around the outside edge to help contain juices. I do use a separate edge grain board for fruit and vegetables (my wife is vegetarian). As far as end grain boards go, we've had one for 20+ years and use it almost every day! I oil it a couple of times a year and never submerge it in water. Occasionally I use a very light sandpaper to touch up the surface before oiling. It's never cracked or warped. Of course it's almost 3 inches thick!
I had an end grain walnut board made for me 12 years ago. It’s never warped and is used daily. I do use a butcher block wax and oil, but only every month or so when I think of it. Looks as beautiful as the day I brought it home.
Love your chanel and your voice...wonderful!!!
I use a wooden board. Reason is probably a combination of because that’s what my parents used and because I like the look and feel.
There is slight warping that happens, especially with cheaper ones I’ve used, but I flip the board each time I use it and it’s never caused a problem.
I have five different plastic boards, (high density polyethylene) in various sizes and I cut everything on them. One of my hobbies I love is woodworking and built lots of both edge grain and end grain cutting boards They're really beautiful and make the perfect gift for the home cook! I found that on the end grain boards if they're made using lots of little pieces, they're more prone to warping. As far as putting something under your wood boards to keep them from sliding around, I been using those drawer liners that you can find at almost all the dollar stores. Being one dollar the price is definitely right and they're made of some kind of rubber material that will not absorb water and they have just enough grip that your boards will not move around. When I build my wood boards especially the end grain ones, I make my own coating for them out of mineral oil and snd a small chunk of bees wax. I heat this mixture slightly on the stove until the bees wax melts. I put on several coats a day until after a few days, it won't take any more. I then buff them out with lots of elbow grease and the friction will melt the bees wax into the wood pores and really seals it up. I just found your channel and so far I really love what your doing. Keep those RUclips videos coming!!
I have a wood carving board where one side is angled down to catch juices, etc. I like it for also doing small veggies, like green onions. Keeps them from rolling all over the board. Then when I need a flat surface, I flip it over. I have some of those color coded, thin plastic ones I then use for things that might stain, fish, and usually even raw meats since they're easier to clean.
Great info! I once got a small bamboo cutting board as a gift and didn't know you shouldn't put them in the dishwasher. After a few months of light use, it split clean in half. Lesson learned, I'm sticking to my simple plastic cutting boards.
Luv this woman's knowledge and presentation style, wish i would have discovered her channel Sooner.
I like to cut veggies and fruit on wooden Boos boards, then use plastic for meats and fish, beets, etc. Being able to wash the plastic board in the dishwasher is a plus. I have a Joyce Chen two-sided plastic board that I really appreciate.
End-grain board: we periodically clean with white vinegar, let it dry overnight, then apply copious amount of Heavy Mineral Oil USP. Over time the wood gets saturated and absorbs less oil. Easy to keep clean, (never sticky), looks great, perfect surface for cutting.
Plastic cutting boards are usually high-grade HDPE, so are ideal for cutting into various shaped insulators for your super-high voltage experiments. (I use a bamboo board for kitchen; meat one side, veg the other. Use it, then wash and dry it before starting the cooking)
You can also use dawns antibacterial dish soap for anything that had poultry on it. I use it whenever I’ve dealt with meat. Highly recommend since my dishwasher is currently broken. I also use it when cleaning my sink to make sure it’s disinfected.
How do you feel about the thin plastic cutting mats? We've been using them with no apparent problems, and if you cut through one, you can just throw it away. I like the fact you can roll them to dump your ingredients right into the pot, rather than scraping a board.
sounds kinda wasteful tbh
Too wasteful and a pain in the ass to replace it all the time
I have a couple of end grain wood boards. I don't use them. They're for decoration of using to serve food with which doesn't require me to clean the board after.
I have less expensive edge grain boards that I like to use. Bamboo boards work well for me regardless of what was said. But, I don't expect them to last forever, and they're typically less expensive so it's a cost issue along with being able to leave it out because it's not ugly. Since I sharpen my blades more often I really don't notice dulling. They don't seem any harder than the plastic boards I have, maybe a tiny bit. No they can't go into the dishwasher, but they also don't need much oiling. If I want to go through bone, the bamboo boards are the ONLY ones I feel OK about being under the meat because I don't expect them to last forever. For plastic or other wood boards, once I grab a cleaver I'm going to put scars even in a plastic board. And then I don't like it and want to toss it because of the scratchy surface. With bamboo, I know I'm going to replace it eventually and don't care about scars from a cleaver. The harder surface in my mind allows the cleaver to go through the bone more cleanly
I have been sharpening knives for home cooks & private chefs for over 10 years. I recommend bamboo cutting boards because I feel they have a little more give than hard wood boards. To keep them from sliding I use a piece of rubberized drawer liner about the size of a paper towel. No matter what board you use, proper knife skills are a must.
I have a professional set of Cangshan Knives 🔪 and some Dalstrong Knives/Cleaver (Gladiator). About $400-500 invested in good kitchen knives of various sorts that I use. So I’m watching your entire series to better care for my knives overall. When my knives feel happy sharp, I feel much better in using them to slice and dice. And it just improves my mood while doing food preparation. I Use an Edge Board.
We just purchased Cangshan knives. Can you share which cutting board you use?
I use a "fiberboard" ....it may be what you call composite Helen but, I have expensive knives and I don't feel they dull my knives any more or less than other types! (of course I hone them with a ceramic honing rod every day) Only problem of course is keeping them stable on a granite countertop! Answer; double up on some old thicker rubber computer mouse pads and "voila!" Hope that was helpful. Ciao bella! Love your vids, BTW!
I agree , Helen . I love the look of wood boards , that said , a good plastic board with a " micro texture " is the way to go !! Great tutorial !
Helen, for most things I use one of those cheap flexible plastic cutting surfaces. On a section of my counter where I do most of my work, I permanently have Duck Non-Adhesive Shelf Liner Solid Grip EasyLiner, a thin spongy material, which protects the counter. With this beneath the flexible cutting plastic, I think it's a great surface for cutting and chopping. Cheap, lightweight, easy to wash. And you can easily crease the edges to keep stuff from scattering. I use my wooden cutting boards only for bread these days.
I have 2 wooden bords and one plastic, the wooden bords I bought one Ikea over 35 years ago, and the plastic board I got from my parents when I moved from home. I use the woodenbords for fish and meat , and the plasticbord for vegtebles, I have always wasched them by hand right after use. No problem , what so ever. I am an educated chief, and has worked in the profession one and of , since 1986, when I left the cooking school , but has sevrel other occupations as well.
#realcomment I have a bamboo board that I have used for twenty years with no problems, instead of using damp paper ( as my board is in continuous use and seldom leaves bench) I use a computer mouse mat trimmed to slightly smaller than the board. It is an excellent non slip surface.
That's a terrific tip! I use one of my Silpat mats (upside down) under my plastic board.
You can also buy rolls of non-slip material at a dollar store.
Bamboo is a bit too hard for some knifes
I have a small maple Boos block and a plastic board similar to yours. I use plastic for meat, chicken, etc. Wood for vegetables. I find the best way to dry the wood board is to drain off the water in the sink and then place standing up on the counter, so air can circulate around both sides. I also use the Boos oil & cream. Really makes a difference in keeping the wood from getting too dehydrated. Kind of like putting hand cream on dry skin!
I have plastic, bamboo and one wood board. I was crazy about bamboo boards because of their aesthetic and the fact that they are sustainable. However, I am realizing they are really hard on my knives. But they are so nice-looking and sustainable, I am kinda hurt, awe!
I use a plastic board for both raw and cooked meats/fish and a wooden end grain one we got as a gift for everything else. It's held up really well though, no warping whatsoever which, hearing what you said is surprising, it's pretty small though, so maybe that is to it's benefit for it to not warp so much? But I will be upgrading soon to a much larger edge grain for ease of care.
Another excellent video, thank you, you've taught me so much about kitchen techniques. So interesting too 🙂
2 bamboo both small, 2 edge medium in size, 1 large composite wood, 1 very large edge wood. The smallest bamboo is my lunch board used for making salad and sandwiches. Next size up bamboo is my vegetables for dinner board. I use the 2 edge boards for same purpose or for meat cutting. The large composite is for turning whole loins, tenderloins, ribeyes, etc... in smaller steaks for vacuum bagging and then to freezer. The very large edge is for fish. I fish and then cut up my catch on that board.
I have a 3" thick walnut endgrain cutting board. I made it with scraps. Never had a problem with warping. I love it. The mass gives an extra crisp cut. My wife won't use it because it is too heavy she says. :^(
I have had a homemade end grain cutting board for 10 years and it's just as flat as new. I love it and wouldn't use anything else, and as you said it's great for your knives.
i have grown up using wood cutting boards, and refuse to change. i bloody love mine, because it is about 10 years old, and still works. it (i think) gives my entire kitchen a almost woody smell that i just love. i really want to keep using wood forever. its much nicer
bamboo boards are extremely stable and require basically no upkeep. Never oiled mine in the few years I've had it. Never warped, never delaminated
Close to a decade on mine. Got it at the local Meijer grocery store and refuse to use anything else. My wife has gone through numerous plastic and wood boards, but the bamboo just keeps going. I didn’t even know I was supposed to oil it. I just rinse it down with hot soapy water and it’s good as new when I next pull it out.
Of course, I’m a heathen and use CutCo knives that shouldn’t be sharpened. Home cooking versus professional… 😅
#realcomment in my experience, those plastic boards with those terrible little grooves in them are the worst. And to add to the problem, over a few months, my knives would make these grooves deeper somehow, and then I would end up with this big patch of extremely rough plastic in the middle of my board. And no matter how hard I tried, with the hand washing and drying, that patch in the center was always discolored and disgusting. And brown. And probably food safe, yes, but I could still FEEL the bacteria there.
I switched to an edge grain after that, and it's been 6 years now. :)
Me too, my plastic boards get messed up like yours. I expect they are near their end of their life cycle, and I best replace them before bits of plastic get sliced into my food. I don't have room to store a nice thick edge grain board in my small kitchen. At least, no room for the size I would need. LOL!
@@EvelinaMewa Try an Epicurean. They are thin and more environmentally friendly than plastic boards
Great evaluation... I've preferred plastic boards for years. They are gentle on my knives, become clean, smell- and stain-free in the dishwasher and have "feet" that keep them skid-free on the counter. I use several different colors and sizes, depending upon my food and are ergonomically shaped. They're made by Dexas and I buy them from my local Bed, Bath and Beyond. Thanks!
Terrible for the environment
I just found your channel! I love your style and your voice. I wish I lived close so I could take a “live” class. You are an amazing teacher. You should have a show on the food network!
I have an OXO board which I use every day and also a super heavy teak board. The teak board was purchased first and I loved it... but then I got the OXO board, maybe 7 plus years ago, and I've used it exclusively ever since. The teak board sits in the pantry :( Maybe I should start using it again but just for veggies!
I have an end grain wood board that I love. It is a monster in terms of weight, but I don't find cleaning it that much of a hassle. I can give it a quick scrub with a scouring pad in soapy water and then dry it off with a tea towel and it's done. It has some stains, but I don't find smell retention is a problem. I use the board for cutting and for rolling out dough. It hasn't warped on me and I'm in the UK - probably one of the dampest places on Earth. I do have a couple of polythene boards but they don't feel as nice to me when I'm cutting on them. Like most things, it often comes down to personal preference.
Helen, I love your videos. Very practical, informative and entertaining. I put small soft rubber feet on my wood cutting board to prevent slipping. When I cut protein I put down 2 or 3 sheets of slightly damp parchment paper. If I happen to cut through them or not, like you hot soapy and a run in the dishwasher works great.
I recommend Asahi synthetic rubber boards from Japan. Many famous chefs there use it. They are soft, non-absorbent, dishwasher safe, and maintenance-free. But they feel just like wooden boards!
Wow thanks for the recommendation
I liked
Is it good for steaks?
@@leonardberger6752 I would say they are good all-purpose boards except for hacking bones which can leave some cutting marks. But the best thing of these boards are, you can just use some sandpaper to remove one layer and they are like new again. Check this oue: ruclips.net/video/YRSLrp4_WQE/видео.html
@@leonardberger6752 And this one ruclips.net/video/9X5GI3cCoqo/видео.html
Here in Oz we also have acacia composite boards (thorntree) and camphor laurel boards (the trees are declared weeds so woodworkers have lots to work with and I've never smelled or tasted camphor on food). I've had both for 10-15 years in each case and have no problems. I don't oil them and have never had any hygiene problems with a hot water and detergent clean up. The weight is there but I choose to look on the bright side and regard it as weight lifting without gym membership fees ;) (I can't do the same with Chasseur saucepans any more, they really are too heavy)
Great video. Lots of good tips. As for stabilizing my cutting board, I just use a clean, dry tea towel. And, while I really like the idea of end grain, all my cutting boards are plastic.
I use end grains bamboo board, but I was also adding rubber 1/2 inch high, rubber legs on screws, keeping my board dry and added stability. For me working good.
A couple things not mentioned:
1) Some people feel that bamboo, and woods like acacia and teak, contain silica that dull knives faster. Others feel there isn't enough to matter.
2) I read somewhere that the only cutting board material approved by the NSF for use in commercial kitchens is hard rubber. It's not very attractive, but I imagine it's as low-maintenance as a board can be.
As for what I use, I have two edge-grain boards made of hinoki, a soft Japanese cypress wood, and a few smaller plastic boards when I don't need that much surface area. I considered buying an end-grain board, but they're too high-maintenance for me, and they don't seem to be any gentler on knives than hinoki. Hinoki is also naturally anti-bacterial, but they are easily damaged (don't use serrated knives!), and boards thicker than 1/2" are very expensive and not sold in a lot of places. I'm still using 1/2" boards, but one of these days I'll graduate to a hinoki board that's heavy enough to stay put on its own.
You are such a God Send! I was about to buy an expensive Boos board. Plastic for me now! Thank youuuuu!
I use a heavy 2" thick walnut end grain cutting board. I don't baby it much, and it has remained perfectly flat.
I find that wood grain cutting boards don't come nearly oiled enough, so I kept spreading a thick layer of mineral oil over it once or twice a day until it stopped absorbing it. I maintain it with a butcher block conditioner that is just oils (mostly mineral oil) and beeswax. I wash it in the sink, which is optional but easy enough and fast. I dry it immediately, and I add a coat of conditioner when the surface starts to look a little dry. I've used every type of board you mentioned, and this one has been my favorite by far. The only kind of board I haven't tried is the rubber cutting boards, though I would like to get one.
I got bamboo boards because they are very light and I read that they are far more bacteria safe than other wood boards. After watching your video I’m going to research this again. Also, aesthetically, they are pleasing to the touch, which is even more important ( to my surprise) than how pretty they look.
Bamboo is so HARD, and savage on knife edges; hate ‘em!
#realcomment I made my own end grain cutting board. It wasn't perfectly flat on top to begin with, but I installed rubber feet on the bottom so it's very stable and doesn't move. I made it a little smaller and thinner than most commercially available end grain cutting boards, which makes washing easier. I have no concerns cutting meat or fish on the cutting board.
to dry your wood cutting board: immediate to rinsing: take silicone spatula and squeegee off the water: you will not even need to use a drying cloth unless your board has a drip channel around the edge where the spatula will not reach. on a flat board with no groove around the edge you can remove every drop of water by working from one side to the other . easy peasy. any silicone spatula with a straight edge or a spoon spatula with straight sides not a round spoonula. the squeegee action removes all loose water, a quick wipe finishes the job and then air dry for complete drying.
I've been using bamboo boards for several years. I don't use a dishwasher anyway. I wash by hand & oil every few months. They don't seem to dull my knives. I haven't had to sharpen my Dalstrong or Kyoko Damascus knives for several months. By the way, Bamboo is not wood; it's actually a type of grass. I don't think Bamboo is as hard as wood cutting boards; when I oil them, the oil soaks in quickly.
I switched to plastic cutting boards over twenty years ago. I regularly spritz them with Clorox Cleanup and put them into the dishwasher. They are still usable and still white.
I love my wood boards, but am open minded. I think I will purchase the plastic one you recommend on your channel link. I will try it for at least 6 months and let you know what I think about it.
Glad you like your HDPE plastic cutting boards. I am in the plastic business and have a small side business making cutting boards. From a practicality and functional perspective, HDPE is clearly the best. That's why virtually all commercial kitchens and food processors use them. But I sell both plastic and wood. Wood is so good looking, and can convert to an attractive serving board or surface - and does work well as a cutting surface as well. You are right about cleaning the wood boards as soon after use as possible - but if it's a little while after - no problem. I think food grade mineral oil is best for maintaining wood boards. Love your channel.
Where do you sell your cutting boards?
I wish I discovered this channel earlier. My problem with the rubber sides on a plastic cutting board applies to thinner boards, and that is when chopping, the board have some give and for me this affects the cutting action of the knife. When I use a rocking action with a blade, the board gives and as I do this a lot and the blade gets a little duller, the cuts aren't as clean. I removed the rubber on the board I had that included, use a towel underneath and much better now.
I didn't hear what kind of oil to use on a wood cutting board but Helen, I really like your site. Thank you
She mentioned canola oil. I personally use mineral oil - does not go rancid!
I have a thick end grain cutting board. But its round and just one piece of wood, (probably just a slice of a tree). Its a dark hardwood (ironwood i think?). I have had no issues with warping (i think because it is thick, all one piece of wood, and i store it on its side). I use it daily and have had it for 10ish years.
Heavy enough that it doesn't slide around. Has a handle bolted on the side which makes cleaning it super easy. Cannot recomend enough
Silicone baking sheets are good way to stabilize cutting board since they don't slip. Some rubber shelf liners also work very well.
Agreed! I hate the thought of wasting paper towels just to stabilize the board. I place either a silicone pad or a hand woven placemat under mine.
First off - thanks, beautiful series of videos, and great addressing of different subjects. Now I think you could go just a little deeper and list a few KINDS of materials within the very general "Plastic". There are very different plastics with very different attributes. For instance, I have an old cutting board that is made of Teflon I think one of the boards you showed (the first white one) is similar. And it has the "Teflon" auto-lubrication advantage (it somewhat rejects water, and does not absorb smells and liquids) but it loses some of this attribute when scratched by ongoing cuts with the knife. Bamboo is quite hard, and has very definite "direction" to its grain, and so your knife behaves differently at different angles. I find bamboo to be the "cleanest" of them all - as it just repels everything. You can't use it in dishwasher though, it's ruined by it.
One thing I couldn't understand - in my experience those "blocked" end-grain boards were much harder than my normal long grain board. dunno. Maybe I missed something.
She had me at 1:09 "pain in the ass to clean"
I use a one piece wood board (medium) and when I cut meat or beets, I use a very thin sheet of plastic "board" placed on top of my wood board. So cutting is soft. The plastic sheet boards have a sticky back so they stay in place. I use one I have had for years and I throw in the dishwasher. Hasn't warped yet.
Great video, but I think your pros and cons grid around 1:09 has the wood pros in the cons box and vice versa! Just mentioning it constructively, as I am sure this was missed! Again really enjoyed the video though. Thanks for the great content - keep it up!
I only use my bamboo board to slice my different types of homemade bread on. The majority of people in my country don't use dishwashers. My bamboo board is thin, half inch maybe, so it dries in the dish drainer.
I use only wood boards, but have separate boards for meat and veggies/etc.
One tip for wood board users; you can clean with a halved lemon and salt.
I have edge grain wooden boards and, also, plastic boards. My favorite is one of the plastic boards because of its size, handle and when I cut meat on it I can throw it in the dishwasher. I've tried the composite boards but the noise when chopping was unbearable. I tried bamboo but, like you, I find bamboo dulls my knives faster (and it's too noisy) I do use them though. I made them into a book press. For that, they are perfect! :)
To stabilize any cutting board, use self-adhesive cabinet door bumpers (silicone) - one on each corner. Wash by hand. You are welcome!
I have cut my first vegetables as a small child on my moms standard IKEA plastic board. The white 1,99€ thing everyone knows. I got older and my family invested in better (more expensive) boards. They all where either too big or too small for me, needed hand-cleaning, slipped on the countertop or annoyed me in an other way. When I moved out, My husband (well then he was my boyfriend) bought me two standard plastic IKEA cutting boards. And we lived happily ever after.