Great video, you have ensured I am not buying one of these. I do not want to fight with some company about my cracked cutting board that cost me $200.00. You have given me a preview of the response I will receive.
Fantastic advice, i bought a Boos Block a few weeks ago and didn't think i needed the oil & wax for a while but i felt the board was a little dry after 1 week of use. I bought the boos products and after applying the mineral oil (by hand) which really makes a huge difference as you get a feel as to whether the board can absorb more whereas using a cloth i don't think you add enough the board really started to take on a much deeper cherry wood gloss. I still think the board could probably use a few more coats of mineral oil before i add the wax but this video gives a great description of what is going on with your board and why its so important to maintain it.
I messed up my Boos Block by using it when it arrived and it hadn't been treated with the oil, which I did buy. Stained on initial use, cleaned it immediately, then used the salt and lemon rub. Didn't work. I have to get my new cutting board sanded.
I bought a Boos board for 50% off because it was listed as having "imperfections". There were 2 internal blocks where 1 side of each had delaminated from the block next to it ~1-2mm. The wrapping was still on the board, so know it came from the factory that way. Based on another video, I melted non-toxic brown Crayola Crayon into the cracks and could then use a razor blade to scrape off the crayon above the surface before I touched up with some light sandpaper, then mineral oil on top. I ended up using a butane "torch" lighter to keep melting more crayon on the cracks, because when the crayon was liquid, air bubbles kept percolating up from the crack, so the delamination must have gone some distance into the board. Finally, once air bubbles stopped percolating up through the melted crayon was I confident the gaps had been filled. After scraping, then sanding, then oiling, my board looked like new. A year later after regular oilings, my board still looks like new (maybe a bit darker, from all the oil). During the first month, I oiled it every few days. Now I oil it about once a month. Cutting on the board feels so much better (and better for my quality, sharp knives) than cutting on plastic. It also looks great.
The issue is the split between blocks can be multiple inches deep, so melted crayon more effectively fills all the crannies to prevent further degradation. Plus, I did not have maple laying around.@@ypcomchic
I live in a part of the US that gets very cold in the winter. I find that there isn't enough humidity in my home during the winter which exacerbates cracking of wood cooking tools. I have found the regular use of Boos oil to be the only thing that prevents the wood from cracking. Great video.
Thank you for saving my beautiful cutting board and also my two tiny slim cutting boards which I use for the smelly stuff. No one ever explained that to me and your son did a beautiful job showing how it’s done. I also bought a beautiful small breakfast cutting board for my friend and after oiling it generously, it looks like a million bucks!
I really been enjoying your channel. After your video , I oiled my Boos board right away . A great reminder to be proactive vs waiting till it’s too late .
I have a nice, large board from Teakhouse that has been thoroughly oiled monthly since I bought bit a year ago. It is beautiful and I love it. I also have a piece of oak cabinetry that my father made for me before he died. He had an older (mid 1970s) butcher block top that has been maintained since when he purchased it. I expect my children to fight over it when I am gone, along with the vintage Wagner cast iron that he gave me :) Take care of your stuff and it will take care of you ❤️
I am currently oiling my new Hexclad cutting board as I type. I slathered it with oil, laid it upright and after an hour, the oil was gone... More oil added and it's soaking in in some places, but staying glistening in others... May give it another treatment after a few hours. Also stripped all my cast iron pans down to the metal yesterday and am in the seasoning process for those as well... It's Thanksgiving morning and I should probably be seasoning the turkey instead. 🤔 Thanks for the video!
Bought one a few years ago, it developed a crack after about two weeks of very light use but not along a lamination line, more on the surface. Seller blamed me for it which was fun :) great board and the crack hasn't gotten worse but left a bad taste in my mouth about BooS boards
No way Jose. I did everything right and my Boos board still got delaminated after a couple of months which was too late to get a refund. It was my second expensive board to let me down, so I went back to my cheap and sturdy bamboo board (the one I've never oiled because it's so cheap, it doesn't derve it, but has never cracked). Come to think of it, not sure why I was so dismissive of my cheap bamboo board when it does the job, it's so light and easy to wash and dries quickly and takes neglect gracefully.
I have gifted and sold several cutting boards in recent years. Only one, end grain, has come back: it was severally deformed along one sideways seam with slight delamination in another. It was totally fixable: two weeks just sitting in my shop dried it out and returned it to flat (proving that water had been allowed to soak in.) Then I resawed the damaged seams on my table saw, re-glued (Titebond III), and finally re-oiled. While many board owners will not have the necessary tools and experience, most handymen and woodworkers will. One of the beauties of wood is its workability and resilience. Recently I have become interested in trying 100% pure Tung oil and am about to use it for the first time. It is said to deliver a drier (than mineral oil) and still penetrating seal. Watch out for some that is not pure, having petroleum products or others added.
So excited to be getting my new boos board. I am going to oil it without use for a week or 2 and then start using it. I didn't know about what exactly the beeswax did, thank you so much! A great video.
Jed, WOW!! ANOTHER awesome,informative, educational and entertaining video, you are helping sooo many people to protect and prolong their investments, once again, thank you, and good on you!!!
Thanks, Rick. Glad to finally get this one out there. I always feel bad telling people that they allowed their boards to delaminate because it's definitely not what they want to hear! Hopefully this will help limit some frustration!
I bought a Boos board from Williams Sonoma, and it had a small crack in it when i bought it, i do oil my boards but the crack spread enough it now leaks through when carving roasts turkeys, so they do have flaws in them on occasion
Thanks so much for putting this out there! In Feb I purchased a 24 x 18 x 2.25 Maple Boos and didn't realized just how important this was! I can now protect my $180 USD investment! Do you have any thoughts on light sanding with super fine 200+ grit sandpaper every couple of years to spruce it up?
I unwrapped the boos from its plastic wrap and it was delaminated. It does happen and its not my fault not seeing the crack as the paper cover was blocking it in the wrapping. @6:04
Hi, thanks. When new you could put a smallish amount on after every large cooking session. The more moist the board is when you cool the faster the board will dry out. I hope that makes sense.
Well I just purchased a Boos Maple board from your website but wanted to order the oil but it is not on your website to order which I find sad because I love one stop shopping. However excited because currently I ordered wusthof knives and want to make sure I have a great board so I don't unnecessarily dull my knives.
Hi very well information thank you. Question I bought the end grain walnut cutting board very rough. I washed it and I keep putting the mineral oil but it’s still very rough. soaking it though $300 for not cheap should I return it or is it going to get smooth as I work on it and I was disappointed help thank you
Hi, the oil will go deeper into the wood for deep conditioning and the cream is excellent for protecting the surface from stains and such. We suggest for people to start with the oil and then use a combo of the two after the board is well saturated.
Hey! first time here and wow what an amazing video. Best on RUclips for learning about how to oil and care for your cutting board, so thanks for making this! I would like your opinion on something though. I've been researching different boards to buy and everyone is saying end grain boards have a higher chance of delamination and also that they soak up more oil. Based on your video though, I would imagine that as long as one maintains their boards like you have taught, even an end grain board won't delaminate more often than an edge grain board. Would you agree? (I'm asking because I think aesthetically I love end grain design more than edge grain, but I also want the best quality to last me forever) THANKS!
Hi, yes, you have it figured out. 99% of the time when a board delaminates it's because it was not cared for well enough. They can be thirsty, so do oil often but the quality is outstanding.
@@Cook-Culture and to follow up on your reply, re-oil for daily use when it’s new/not yet saturated but cream can maybe once a month? For my new board: can re-oiling wait till the very end of the day so that my board can be washed/dried throughout the day?
@@emilytan4727 Hi, oiling at the end of the day is best. Oil can be used throughout the life of the board as it is super penetrating. Cream is also excellent but more topical than oil. They go well together!
If the board is new, after you clean and dry the board, lightly oil it after each use. Once the board becomes saturated and darker, you only need to oil it as necessary and the frequency will totally depend on how much use the board gets.
Oh my god thank you for this video , you explain in huge detail why I’ve been destroying my boards. I just bought a BooS board and is quite expensive came looking for advice this is great. Question, I don’t have easy access to boos oil and cream (don’t live in USA), what are good replacements for this? You said mineral oil should I add something to it? And bees wax right
I’ve read that a good way to disinfect large wood countertops is with a mix 2 oz of bleach and 32 oz water in a spray bottle. What are your thoughts? I use John Boos mystery oil and their cream and take good care of my John Boos countertops. How do you disinfect your countertops? Your videos are incredibly helpful. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Hi, I don't use bleach but yes, that should do the job! I don't cut meat or fish so I'm less concerned with contamination. I use a natural counter cleaner and always condition with oil.
@@SunnyChampagne we all have our own paths but I understand the pressure when dealing with love ones! Good on you for being there for him if he chooses to.
Quick question. Just received my Boos board and unwrapped it. Any benefit to washing it prior to oiling the board? Or, just hit it with oil before use? Thanks!
Yes, you can wash it...you don't know where it's been!. Rub the water off it well and oil right away. Don't let it dry completely. They are sensitive when they are new and need to be oiled often.
@@Cook-Culture well... crap...lol. Went ahead and oiled it without washing it. Gee, hope I don't die... I wiped it down before I oiled, just didn't use water.
Hey man, fantastic information and I wish I had seen this video a week ago! I might have messed up a little and was wondering if you have any tips: I bought a Boos board as well as the oil and cream. I oiled the board heavily for 2 full days (re-applying when necessary) until it was definitely no longer soaking up oil, or at least as far as I could tell after letting it sit for another day. Where I think I messed up is that after oiling for 2 days and letting it sit for 1 day (and wiping off excess) I applied the cream, I didn't know to keep oiling for an extended period of time before applying cream. It seems like the cream will prevent new oil from penetrating, is this correct? If so, then is there a way I can reliably remove the cream so I can go back to oiling? It has been about a week and my board doesn't look dry, but I feel like I should be oiling it more. Any help is appreciated, and thanks for the vid!
Hi. I don't find that brand here in Europe. Could you suggest another one? And what do you think about the Victorinox cutting boards because they are like the Epicurean you suggested.
Where are you from in Europe? I am making not only cutting boards (primarily end grain) but also oils with bees wax. Let me know, we can shoot each other an email. :)
So after washing my cutting board I let it dry all night then oil it. I’ve am curious if letting it dry all night will dry out the board too much before the oil is applied. I’ve been eyeing a boos but want to make sure what I’m doing is correct before I purchase one.
I never noticed the Bee's wax at the bottom of the bottle before. Should it be shaken periodically? It doesn't say to do so on the bottle so, just wondering?
Good information thank you. Have a related question, as I’m getting older meat board are beginning to be a bit to heavy for me so I just bought a extra large bamboo board. I am oiling it what’s you opinion on them? Or option? Thank you in advance
Ok, so I oiled my board last night and was going to put another coat on this morning and discovered a crack..so, I have sent pics and email off to JB. Guessing this board is going back?
Hi Jed, I just recently purchased the boos butcher block but I’m planning to send it to Philippines and it will take 3 months before they receive it. Should I open the package and oil it first for a week or two or just send it straight.. what would you recommend?
I just received my Boos Block cutting board a couple of days ago and it has a lot of dry patches. I'm on day 2 of the oil process and they are just as noticeable as day 1. Do you know if this will ever go away? I think it looks terrible considering what I spent on the board. Thanks for the great video!
I got a 5/8" small cutting board decades ago, idk, at the grocery store and used it now&then. After years it was dry and fuzzy kinda, like you said, dry skin but w/o splitting. Decided to get off the couch and start oiling it. Glad I looked into it 1st so I wouldn't get the wrong oil. Found food grade mineral oil at CVS but you got to look in the area for laxatives. My wife thinks I'm nuts for that. So you never got into why the oil and wax. But when you got to the cream and filling in cracks I guess it's to seal it. Do I HAVE to use wax? Or is the oil enough? Like I said don't use it much.
Yes all that he says is true. However, they started making them 150 years ago and I think I bought one that had been hanging around and dried out over years in the warehouse then unfortunately I got the board and BAM …… crack! Oh and btw way I oiled often like ALL THE TIME! I have another board that I have had for 22 years and is still perfect!!!
Thanks for the wisdom. Do you know of a good place in the USA to buy a "bench hook" cutting board? I call it a "bench hook" because that's what my Dad called it. It's a relatively thin (3/4" to 1" thick) cutting board where the ends have a vertical (perpendicular) piece of wood that goes up at one end and down at the other end and "hooks" over the front of the counter. I used to use my grandmother's as it was especially large and extremely useful for rolling out large pieces of dough for challah. I've looked online for them and in good cookware/bakeware stores, but I've yet to find such a cutting board in these stores. Short of making one myself, which isn't going to happen, I'd love to find one somewhere if I could for a reasonable price as I know that at my age (over 50+) I'd have it for the rest of my life.
Howdy, yes, I know what you mean and have sold them....years ago. I haven't seen one for maybe 15 years and don't know of a maker that still has them in production. Sorry!
I have seen many. Boos makes one, several Etsy makers. have them, Williams Sonoma has one, etc. I googled "bench cutting board" and found them called bench hook (like you noted) or hangover, or countertop, or dough kneading boards.
By far the best video out there on the topic thanks! (And f*** to youtube for removing dislikes count that makes it way harder to find good vid like this one)
Not a fan of maple as it can be rough on knife edges. Teak would be the ideal choice for a variety of reasons. As well, it's a good idea to heat the conditioner in the microwave or whatever as that will allow it to maximally penetrate the board. And I know you sell and promote Boos, but all those expensive conditioners and oils are really not necessary. In general, a pharmaceutical grade (USP or NSF certified) mineral oil works beautifully and is dirt cheap. It's perfect for general ongoing maintenance and won't break your wallet. A conditioner which includes wax is a good idea to apply maybe two or three times a year. But there are excellent conditioners (Howard's for example) that are far cheaper than Boos. Boos makes good products, but in my opinion is overpriced.
The End grain will take about 2 bottles of mineral oil. Well worth it $500 yup I’m oiling the sucker. Thank you for telling it the way it is. I oil mine like 1x month. I’ll start oiling them weekly. They are so beautiful and awesome. I love my Boos. I never put them away because I’m always using them. I get compliments on them. I use a plastic mat over them but it’s not necessary. Thank you for the education on them. Will you do a tutorial on how to make a mineral and wax paste to protect the board? The Boos paste can be expensive especially now. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Hi, glad you're loving your Boos Board. Funny you ask about the oil video. We just started making our own and yes, I will be releasing a how to make your own board oil video soon
Save the money. If you want wood to last for generations simply use linseed oil. Proven for centuries. Of course companies cannot make much money with that so they recommend artificial stuff like mineral oil and other inferior products.
I have a split Boos board someone didn't oil enough. Can I use wood glue and clamps on it and slowly oil it every day for months to bring it back or will it always want to split or warp?
Hi, possibly. I've had some success by doing that but most of the time, if it's split at the end, it won't go back together. In this case, I fill the gap with beeswax.
Hey Jed, thanks for the video! I would have to say that hard wood chopping boards might be durable and nice to have, but will dull your knives pretty quickly. Rubberised cutting boards are the go to in terms of knife edge retention :) Cheers!
How about cleaning the board after use? I feel like just using cool or warm water and a cloth or brush would be best so as to minimize drying out, unless I've used it for cutting meat/chicken/fish, in which case I would use hot water and Castille soap.
Found this while checking boad brands for purchase, 100% not going Boos based on this video. Has to be a poor glue up or weak glue if the board needs more oil than my car
By the way. Being the wood genius that you are, isnt maple a very hard wood? At least the last time i checked! Now you may be the wood genius but it sounds as if you never made it to status of metal genius. Brcause knives are usually not made out of Wood. And when thin metal edges come in contact with hard wood The wood usually takes a piece out of the knife edge. So the lesson that is learned here is that hard wood such as maple, just may not be great, even with mineral oil, to use with sharp edge knives!!!
If the knife and maple board are of any decent quality, they should work perfectly together. I've sold thousands of knives and hundreds of boards and have never see the board damage a good knife. That said, if the operator is doing something wrong, anything can go sideways.
Since you sell these boards and the which what knives I assume ,you would always say positive of the products that you sell. If you actually google other boards on line, you will see many that are much more resilient to knife wear than maple wood. Better for the life of knives as well as the life of the board. I would only expect that what your answer or reply is because it's financially correct for you.
Oh. I'm definitely not, bad mouthing maple wood. It's ok for the general public. There are better choices for the type of cutting one does . Or you are a professional. I don't know if you are aware, but in most states, the sanitary food laws do not allow wooden boards, at all to be used in a commercial kitchen. That may some thing about wooden boards in general.
Bull. When laminating lumber it is critical that the moisture contents are the same. If the maker puts in a piece of wood that is wetter or drier than its neighbors, you will get warping, twisting, or cracking. I have seen many cutting boards in the shipping plastic that have cracked.
I have too, and what you say can be a problem. But a board that looks fine, and works fine for a few months, and then delaminates because it wasn't care for, is a user error and not the fault of the manufacturer. 99/100 times it's poor maintenance
I would advise anyone to heavily reconsider using petroleum products on anything that goes in or on the body. Petroleum does not belong in people! Use another alternative natural oil, like traditional olive.
Im surprised and baffled, that you call the Epicurian board ,a wood composite board. What wood? The Epicurian board is paper coated material that comprises a resin that is formaldehyde based, over paper. Where do you come up that it is a wood composite. If there is any wood at all, that's something that the company does not state, at all. They also dont tell the public of the resin that is bonded to paper , for a complete cutying board!!!
How about the proposal to make tin ,(aluminum), foil into a knife blade because technically speaking, tin or aluminum foil is metal. Technically speaking. Of course!!!
Why don't you google the product called Richlite. I believe it is made In the state of Washington. Near where you are. If you read the composite of what the make up of that product , I am surprised that the FDA had not banned it from any form of human consumption, especially anything near a kitchen.Epicurian boards are Richlite. It's unfortunate that the FDA is not alerted to the misleading and no transparency by ,Epicurian labeling!
You can use a Mix from 20% melted beewax and 80% oil. I use linseed oil because it will react With the oxygen in the air because IT Has Lots of omega Fats.
Great video, you have ensured I am not buying one of these. I do not want to fight with some company about my cracked cutting board that cost me $200.00. You have given me a preview of the response I will receive.
Damn, between oiling my cutting board and seasoning my cast iron, I don’t have much time left for my family.
don't forget the pre-heating, oh wait I guess that could = more time for the family if u do it in the kitchen while keeping an eye on the pan, lol
It's my son's job to maintain the boards and my daughter is pretty good at seasoning our pans. I've got my feet up!
@@Cook-Culture Nice
🤣
Best comment I have ever read on RUclips !
Fantastic advice, i bought a Boos Block a few weeks ago and didn't think i needed the oil & wax for a while but i felt the board was a little dry after 1 week of use. I bought the boos products and after applying the mineral oil (by hand) which really makes a huge difference as you get a feel as to whether the board can absorb more whereas using a cloth i don't think you add enough the board really started to take on a much deeper cherry wood gloss. I still think the board could probably use a few more coats of mineral oil before i add the wax but this video gives a great description of what is going on with your board and why its so important to maintain it.
I messed up my Boos Block by using it when it arrived and it hadn't been treated with the oil, which I did buy. Stained on initial use, cleaned it immediately, then used the salt and lemon rub. Didn't work. I have to get my new cutting board sanded.
I bought a Boos board for 50% off because it was listed as having "imperfections". There were 2 internal blocks where 1 side of each had delaminated from the block next to it ~1-2mm. The wrapping was still on the board, so know it came from the factory that way. Based on another video, I melted non-toxic brown Crayola Crayon into the cracks and could then use a razor blade to scrape off the crayon above the surface before I touched up with some light sandpaper, then mineral oil on top. I ended up using a butane "torch" lighter to keep melting more crayon on the cracks, because when the crayon was liquid, air bubbles kept percolating up from the crack, so the delamination must have gone some distance into the board. Finally, once air bubbles stopped percolating up through the melted crayon was I confident the gaps had been filled. After scraping, then sanding, then oiling, my board looked like new. A year later after regular oilings, my board still looks like new (maybe a bit darker, from all the oil). During the first month, I oiled it every few days. Now I oil it about once a month. Cutting on the board feels so much better (and better for my quality, sharp knives) than cutting on plastic. It also looks great.
You could have just used maple sawdust and wood glue to fill the hole.
The issue is the split between blocks can be multiple inches deep, so melted crayon more effectively fills all the crannies to prevent further degradation. Plus, I did not have maple laying around.@@ypcomchic
I live in a part of the US that gets very cold in the winter. I find that there isn't enough humidity in my home during the winter which exacerbates cracking of wood cooking tools. I have found the regular use of Boos oil to be the only thing that prevents the wood from cracking. Great video.
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for saving my beautiful cutting board and also my two tiny slim cutting boards which I use for the smelly stuff. No one ever explained that to me and your son did a beautiful job showing how it’s done. I also bought a beautiful small breakfast cutting board for my friend and after oiling it generously, it looks like a million bucks!
I really been enjoying your channel. After your video , I oiled my Boos board right away . A great reminder to be proactive vs waiting till it’s too late .
Great! Glad it helped!!
I have a nice, large board from Teakhouse that has been thoroughly oiled monthly since I bought bit a year ago. It is beautiful and I love it. I also have a piece of oak cabinetry that my father made for me before he died. He had an older (mid 1970s) butcher block top that has been maintained since when he purchased it. I expect my children to fight over it when I am gone, along with the vintage Wagner cast iron that he gave me :)
Take care of your stuff and it will take care of you ❤️
Glad I showed up for my daily scolding
The worst commercial. Ever.
I am currently oiling my new Hexclad cutting board as I type. I slathered it with oil, laid it upright and after an hour, the oil was gone... More oil added and it's soaking in in some places, but staying glistening in others... May give it another treatment after a few hours.
Also stripped all my cast iron pans down to the metal yesterday and am in the seasoning process for those as well... It's Thanksgiving morning and I should probably be seasoning the turkey instead. 🤔
Thanks for the video!
Bought one a few years ago, it developed a crack after about two weeks of very light use but not along a lamination line, more on the surface. Seller blamed me for it which was fun :) great board and the crack hasn't gotten worse but left a bad taste in my mouth about BooS boards
Perfect timing! My BooS board came in last night and now I know how to really break it in
Great to hear!
No way Jose. I did everything right and my Boos board still got delaminated after a couple of months which was too late to get a refund. It was my second expensive board to let me down, so I went back to my cheap and sturdy bamboo board (the one I've never oiled because it's so cheap, it doesn't derve it, but has never cracked). Come to think of it, not sure why I was so dismissive of my cheap bamboo board when it does the job, it's so light and easy to wash and dries quickly and takes neglect gracefully.
I have gifted and sold several cutting boards in recent years. Only one, end grain, has come back: it was severally deformed along one sideways seam with slight delamination in another. It was totally fixable: two weeks just sitting in my shop dried it out and returned it to flat (proving that water had been allowed to soak in.) Then I resawed the damaged seams on my table saw, re-glued (Titebond III), and finally re-oiled. While many board owners will not have the necessary tools and experience, most handymen and woodworkers will. One of the beauties of wood is its workability and resilience.
Recently I have become interested in trying 100% pure Tung oil and am about to use it for the first time. It is said to deliver a drier (than mineral oil) and still penetrating seal. Watch out for some that is not pure, having petroleum products or others added.
So excited to be getting my new boos board. I am going to oil it without use for a week or 2 and then start using it. I didn't know about what exactly the beeswax did, thank you so much! A great video.
Great, good strategy.
Jed, WOW!! ANOTHER awesome,informative, educational and entertaining video, you are helping sooo many people to protect and prolong their investments, once again, thank you, and good on you!!!
Thanks, Rick. Glad to finally get this one out there. I always feel bad telling people that they allowed their boards to delaminate because it's definitely not what they want to hear! Hopefully this will help limit some frustration!
I bought a Boos board from Williams Sonoma, and it had a small crack in it when i bought it, i do oil my boards but the crack spread enough it now leaks through when carving roasts turkeys, so they do have flaws in them on occasion
Hi, yes, definitely. You should take it back? We would warranty a board with a manufacturer defect
After oiling, Why stand on its edge ? any reason not to leave flat on a rack? what ever is best i would prefer to follow, thank you
Thanks so much for putting this out there! In Feb I purchased a 24 x 18 x 2.25 Maple Boos and didn't realized just how important this was! I can now protect my $180 USD investment! Do you have any thoughts on light sanding with super fine 200+ grit sandpaper every couple of years to spruce it up?
Great it works for you. You could sand, no problem, but with the right oiling I'd bet that you won't need to.
I unwrapped the boos from its plastic wrap and it was delaminated. It does happen and its not my fault not seeing the crack as the paper cover was blocking it in the wrapping. @6:04
Hi, yes, in that case it can happen that it delaminates before use. That is covered by the retailers
When u first get the board if you’re are using it and washing it daily should the oil be applied once a week or more often?
Hi, thanks. When new you could put a smallish amount on after every large cooking session. The more moist the board is when you cool the faster the board will dry out. I hope that makes sense.
Why do you use your hand to spread the oil and not a rag? The oils from your hand could transfer to the wood?
Well I just purchased a Boos Maple board from your website but wanted to order the oil but it is not on your website to order which I find sad because I love one stop shopping. However excited because currently I ordered wusthof knives and want to make sure I have a great board so I don't unnecessarily dull my knives.
Hi, thanks. We sell oil, but our own brand.
Hi very well information thank you. Question I bought the end grain walnut cutting board very rough. I washed it and I keep putting the mineral oil but it’s still very rough. soaking it though $300 for not cheap should I return it or is it going to get smooth as I work on it and I was disappointed help thank you
It looks very dry thank you
It should be smooth. I'd suggest to talk to where you bought it
So you should Oil Weekly! What about the board cream? Do you use the board cream with the Oil? Or just board cream weekly?
Hi, the oil will go deeper into the wood for deep conditioning and the cream is excellent for protecting the surface from stains and such. We suggest for people to start with the oil and then use a combo of the two after the board is well saturated.
Hey! first time here and wow what an amazing video. Best on RUclips for learning about how to oil and care for your cutting board, so thanks for making this! I would like your opinion on something though. I've been researching different boards to buy and everyone is saying end grain boards have a higher chance of delamination and also that they soak up more oil. Based on your video though, I would imagine that as long as one maintains their boards like you have taught, even an end grain board won't delaminate more often than an edge grain board. Would you agree? (I'm asking because I think aesthetically I love end grain design more than edge grain, but I also want the best quality to last me forever) THANKS!
Hi, yes, you have it figured out. 99% of the time when a board delaminates it's because it was not cared for well enough. They can be thirsty, so do oil often but the quality is outstanding.
@@Cook-Culture thank you so much for the quick reply!! :D
Do we need to re-oiling it every time after washed? Thanks
Definitely as it's new. Once the wood darkens and becomes satin, you can oil as needed.
@@Cook-Culture and to follow up on your reply, re-oil for daily use when it’s new/not yet saturated but cream can maybe once a month?
For my new board: can re-oiling wait till the very end of the day so that my board can be washed/dried throughout the day?
@@emilytan4727 Hi, oiling at the end of the day is best. Oil can be used throughout the life of the board as it is super penetrating. Cream is also excellent but more topical than oil. They go well together!
Maybe I missed it, but how often should you be oiling? After each washing?
If the board is new, after you clean and dry the board, lightly oil it after each use.
Once the board becomes saturated and darker, you only need to oil it as necessary and the frequency will totally depend on how much use the board gets.
Oh my god thank you for this video , you explain in huge detail why I’ve been destroying my boards. I just bought a BooS board and is quite expensive came looking for advice this is great.
Question, I don’t have easy access to boos oil and cream (don’t live in USA), what are good replacements for this? You said mineral oil should I add something to it? And bees wax right
Glad it was helpful. Mineral oil on its own is fine.
I’ve read that a good way to disinfect large wood countertops is with a mix 2 oz of bleach and 32 oz water in a spray bottle. What are your thoughts? I use John Boos mystery oil and their cream and take good care of my John Boos countertops. How do you disinfect your countertops? Your videos are incredibly helpful. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Hi, I don't use bleach but yes, that should do the job! I don't cut meat or fish so I'm less concerned with contamination. I use a natural counter cleaner and always condition with oil.
@@Cook-Culture got it. I wished I could convert my husband to a vegetarian. Thank you!
@@SunnyChampagne we all have our own paths but I understand the pressure when dealing with love ones! Good on you for being there for him if he chooses to.
I heard tung oil is best? Any advice on that?
Quick question. Just received my Boos board and unwrapped it. Any benefit to washing it prior to oiling the board? Or, just hit it with oil before use? Thanks!
Yes, you can wash it...you don't know where it's been!. Rub the water off it well and oil right away. Don't let it dry completely. They are sensitive when they are new and need to be oiled often.
@@Cook-Culture well... crap...lol. Went ahead and oiled it without washing it. Gee, hope I don't die... I wiped it down before I oiled, just didn't use water.
@@JohnAnderson-ev8vq It's highly probable that you won't die. Like well above 50% 🤣
Hey man, fantastic information and I wish I had seen this video a week ago! I might have messed up a little and was wondering if you have any tips:
I bought a Boos board as well as the oil and cream. I oiled the board heavily for 2 full days (re-applying when necessary) until it was definitely no longer soaking up oil, or at least as far as I could tell after letting it sit for another day. Where I think I messed up is that after oiling for 2 days and letting it sit for 1 day (and wiping off excess) I applied the cream, I didn't know to keep oiling for an extended period of time before applying cream.
It seems like the cream will prevent new oil from penetrating, is this correct? If so, then is there a way I can reliably remove the cream so I can go back to oiling? It has been about a week and my board doesn't look dry, but I feel like I should be oiling it more.
Any help is appreciated, and thanks for the vid!
Howdy - just keep using it and applying oil. It will be fine.
Hi. I don't find that brand here in Europe. Could you suggest another one? And what do you think about the Victorinox cutting boards because they are like the Epicurean you suggested.
Where are you from in Europe? I am making not only cutting boards (primarily end grain) but also oils with bees wax. Let me know, we can shoot each other an email. :)
So after washing my cutting board I let it dry all night then oil it. I’ve am curious if letting it dry all night will dry out the board too much before the oil is applied. I’ve been eyeing a boos but want to make sure what I’m doing is correct before I purchase one.
Hi, you can apply oil to the board quite soon after washing. It should dry in 10 to 15 min and then layer on your first coat.
@@Cook-Culture thank you!
I never noticed the Bee's wax at the bottom of the bottle before. Should it be shaken periodically? It doesn't say to do so on the bottle so, just wondering?
Hi, yes, I've found that if I don't shake the bottle then the oil is quite a bit thicker near the end. So I've made it a habit
Good information thank you. Have a related question, as I’m getting older meat board are beginning to be a bit to heavy for me so I just bought a extra large bamboo board. I am oiling it what’s you opinion on them? Or option? Thank you in advance
Hi, Bamboo is fine. Quite a bit harder but much less maintenance. Another good option is the brand, Epicuren Boards
@@Cook-Culture Thank you very much, I’ll look into them. I
Ok, so I oiled my board last night and was going to put another coat on this morning and discovered a crack..so, I have sent pics and email off to JB. Guessing this board is going back?
I use denatured coconut oil, it seems to do ok?
Great!
Which bees wax are you referring to for the delaminate? I recently picked up a john boos block
There is bees wax in the Boos oil and paste
Hi Jed, I just recently purchased the boos butcher block but I’m planning to send it to Philippines and it will take 3 months before they receive it. Should I open the package and oil it first for a week or two or just send it straight.. what would you recommend?
Hi, if it's in the original package just leave it as is. It will stand up fine
You don’t do the edges as well? Didn’t see tou do it on video.
Yes! Edges too
I just received my Boos Block cutting board a couple of days ago and it has a lot of dry patches. I'm on day 2 of the oil process and they are just as noticeable as day 1. Do you know if this will ever go away? I think it looks terrible considering what I spent on the board. Thanks for the great video!
It 'should' go away, as the board darkens but if it doesn't BOOS will look after it. They are great.
I LOVE your videos!!
Thank you!
I got a 5/8" small cutting board decades ago, idk, at the grocery store and used it now&then. After years it was dry and fuzzy kinda, like you said, dry skin but w/o splitting. Decided to get off the couch and start oiling it. Glad I looked into it 1st so I wouldn't get the wrong oil. Found food grade mineral oil at CVS but you got to look in the area for laxatives. My wife thinks I'm nuts for that.
So you never got into why the oil and wax. But when you got to the cream and filling in cracks I guess it's to seal it.
Do I HAVE to use wax? Or is the oil enough? Like I said don't use it much.
Love it! Good point on where to look for Mineral Oil. It's the same here in Vancouver.
@@Cook-Culture I think my wife was thinking if I use it we would be spending to much time in the bathroom, lol.
@@djC653 I guess there's a chance of that but better than a cracked board!!
So is it my fault if the board delaminates?
99% of the time, yes.
Great episode
Yes all that he says is true. However, they started making them 150 years ago and I think I bought one that had been hanging around and dried out over years in the warehouse then unfortunately I got the board and BAM …… crack! Oh and btw way I oiled often like ALL THE TIME! I have another board that I have had for 22 years and is still perfect!!!
Howdy, yes, once in a while a board can crack due to 'other' issues. In that case it would be replaced.
Effingham, IL is not just West of Chicago.
Thank you for the correction. South!
How do you clean your giant counter cutting board?
Light soap and water then let dry and oil well
Can I use my board after I have delaminated it?
Yes, fill the cracks with a beeswax candle
Thanks for the wisdom. Do you know of a good place in the USA to buy a "bench hook" cutting board? I call it a "bench hook" because that's what my Dad called it. It's a relatively thin (3/4" to 1" thick) cutting board where the ends have a vertical (perpendicular) piece of wood that goes up at one end and down at the other end and "hooks" over the front of the counter. I used to use my grandmother's as it was especially large and extremely useful for rolling out large pieces of dough for challah. I've looked online for them and in good cookware/bakeware stores, but I've yet to find such a cutting board in these stores. Short of making one myself, which isn't going to happen, I'd love to find one somewhere if I could for a reasonable price as I know that at my age (over 50+) I'd have it for the rest of my life.
Howdy, yes, I know what you mean and have sold them....years ago. I haven't seen one for maybe 15 years and don't know of a maker that still has them in production. Sorry!
@@Cook-Culture , thank you. Much appreciated.
I have seen many. Boos makes one, several Etsy makers. have them, Williams Sonoma has one, etc. I googled "bench cutting board" and found them called bench hook (like you noted) or hangover, or countertop, or dough kneading boards.
By far the best video out there on the topic thanks! (And f*** to youtube for removing dislikes count that makes it way harder to find good vid like this one)
Yes, definitely controversial!! Glad you like it tho!
Not a fan of maple as it can be rough on knife edges. Teak would be the ideal choice for a variety of reasons.
As well, it's a good idea to heat the conditioner in the microwave or whatever as that will allow it to maximally penetrate the board.
And I know you sell and promote Boos, but all those expensive conditioners and oils are really not necessary.
In general, a pharmaceutical grade (USP or NSF certified) mineral oil works beautifully and is dirt cheap. It's perfect for general ongoing maintenance and won't break your wallet.
A conditioner which includes wax is a good idea to apply maybe two or three times a year. But there are excellent conditioners (Howard's for example) that are far cheaper than Boos.
Boos makes good products, but in my opinion is overpriced.
The End grain will take about 2 bottles of mineral oil. Well worth it $500 yup I’m oiling the sucker. Thank you for telling it the way it is. I oil mine like 1x month. I’ll start oiling them weekly. They are so beautiful and awesome. I love my Boos. I never put them away because I’m always using them. I get compliments on them. I use a plastic mat over them but it’s not necessary. Thank you for the education on them. Will you do a tutorial on how to make a mineral and wax paste to protect the board? The Boos paste can be expensive especially now. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Hi, glad you're loving your Boos Board. Funny you ask about the oil video. We just started making our own and yes, I will be releasing a how to make your own board oil video soon
Save the money. If you want wood to last for generations simply use linseed oil. Proven for centuries. Of course companies cannot make much money with that so they recommend artificial stuff like mineral oil and other inferior products.
Why does it matter who’s at fault for a delaminated board?
If it's a manufacturer defect then it should be replaced. If it's user error then it can hopefully be fixed.
I have a split Boos board someone didn't oil enough. Can I use wood glue and clamps on it and slowly oil it every day for months to bring it back or will it always want to split or warp?
Hi, possibly. I've had some success by doing that but most of the time, if it's split at the end, it won't go back together. In this case, I fill the gap with beeswax.
Hey Jed, thanks for the video! I would have to say that hard wood chopping boards might be durable and nice to have, but will dull your knives pretty quickly. Rubberised cutting boards are the go to in terms of knife edge retention :) Cheers!
Can you just use mineral oil bought at a hardware store? I purposely bought food grade mineral oil for my boards.
Yes! That will work great.
How about cleaning the board after use?
I feel like just using cool or warm water and a cloth or brush would be best so as to minimize drying out, unless I've used it for cutting meat/chicken/fish, in which case I would use hot water and Castille soap.
Hi David, if the board is well oiled then soap and water is all you need.
Nice new T-Shirt ;-)
Found this while checking boad brands for purchase, 100% not going Boos based on this video. Has to be a poor glue up or weak glue if the board needs more oil than my car
Hi, this is not a brand specific issue. This is the same for all new hardwoods.
By the way. Being the wood genius that you are, isnt maple a very hard wood? At least the last time i checked! Now you may be the wood genius but it sounds as if you never made it to status of metal genius. Brcause knives are usually not made out of Wood. And when thin metal edges come in contact with hard wood
The wood usually takes a piece out of the knife edge. So the lesson that is learned here is that hard wood such as maple, just may not be great, even with mineral oil, to use with sharp edge knives!!!
If the knife and maple board are of any decent quality, they should work perfectly together. I've sold thousands of knives and hundreds of boards and have never see the board damage a good knife. That said, if the operator is doing something wrong, anything can go sideways.
Since you sell these boards and the which what knives I assume ,you would always say positive of the products that you sell. If you actually google other boards on line, you will see many that are much more resilient to knife wear than maple wood.
Better for the life of knives as well as the life of the board. I would only expect that what your answer or reply is because it's financially correct for you.
Oh. I'm definitely not, bad mouthing maple wood. It's ok for the general public. There are better choices for the type of cutting one does . Or you are a professional. I don't know if you are aware, but in most states, the sanitary food laws do not allow wooden boards, at all to be used in a commercial kitchen. That may some thing about wooden boards in general.
Bull. When laminating lumber it is critical that the moisture contents are the same. If the maker puts in a piece of wood that is wetter or drier than its neighbors, you will get warping, twisting, or cracking. I have seen many cutting boards in the shipping plastic that have cracked.
I have too, and what you say can be a problem. But a board that looks fine, and works fine for a few months, and then delaminates because it wasn't care for, is a user error and not the fault of the manufacturer. 99/100 times it's poor maintenance
lol, tough cutting board love
Haha! I wouldn't want to be unclear!
whatever you do,,, don't fall in that kitchen. those knives are something medieval!
I would advise anyone to heavily reconsider using petroleum products on anything that goes in or on the body. Petroleum does not belong in people!
Use another alternative natural oil, like traditional olive.
Waffle up to 1:44
Im surprised and baffled, that you call the Epicurian board ,a wood composite board. What wood? The Epicurian board is paper coated material that comprises a resin that is formaldehyde based, over paper.
Where do you come up that it is a wood composite. If there is any wood at all, that's something that the company does not state, at all. They also dont tell the public of the resin that is bonded to paper , for a complete cutying board!!!
You've got me on a technicality, but the last time I checked, paper was made from wood.
Yeah. You sound like a technical genius! Paper is wood that maybe so
and tin foil is metal . I don't know why they don't make cars out of tin foil!!
How about the proposal to make tin ,(aluminum), foil into a knife blade because technically speaking, tin or aluminum foil is metal. Technically speaking. Of course!!!
Why don't you google the product called Richlite. I believe it is made In the state of Washington. Near where you are. If you read the composite of what the make up of that product , I am surprised that the FDA had not banned it from any form of human consumption, especially anything near a kitchen.Epicurian boards are Richlite. It's unfortunate that the FDA is not alerted to the misleading and no transparency by ,Epicurian labeling!
Have to buy a wooden cutting board that isn’t glued pieces of wood. Buy a cutting board made of one solid wood.
LA COLLA SI STACCA QUANDO USANO ACUA BOLENTE 50ANNI DI ESPERIENZA ........../.....
Can I just smelt some beeswax and rub it in?
You can use a Mix from 20% melted beewax and 80% oil. I use linseed oil because it will react With the oxygen in the air because IT Has Lots of omega Fats.
How about less lecture and get to the point
personal responsibility??? Its 2022 not my fault LOL
This could've been a 5 min video. Very repetitive
any recommendations for non toxic cutting boards? ... glue = formaldehyde, mineral oil = petroleum etc
Truly non toxic...a slab of wood, maintained with refined coconut oil?