Battery Isolators - Types & How to Install | Car Audio 101
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 11 ноя 2024
- Learn more about battery isolators and why you need one if your car audio system has 2 or more batteries. In this video we talk about the two types of battery isolators: Solenoid and Diode. We also discuss how to install these isolators properly in your car.
Buy Your Battery Isolator Today!
www.sonicelectr...
Sonic Electronix
www.sonicelectr...
Dude, the joke at the end. That was a great opportunity to really show your true form.
Good on ya mate.
So charming and funny!!!
The fuse will blow if the battery is asking for more power. 140A is the current transfer abilities of the isolator. You should fuse each battery to be safe from short circuits.
Thanks for presenting the info in such a clear and concise way! uncommon!
You are very welcome! 0 gauge can use 200 - 300A fuse to protect the wire, so if you have high quality wire use 300A but if you have cheap wire go with 250 or below.
Either one will work just fine for you. Diode isolators are less common but if you listen to your sound system a lot with the vehicle off, go with a Diode isolator.
What if I only listen to my system with my truck on? I never play my music without my truck running.
Good video just one question..when wiring in a diode isolator it says run a cable from the alternator to the center post. Do I disconnect the original alternator line since the isolator charges both batteries now, or do I leave the original alternator connection in place and just add an extra cable?
been trying to figure this out myself
You could take the power wire going to your second battery and add a switch to it. If you turn the switch off, it will stop the flow to your second battery. The switch you use is up to you but it needs to be beefy to handle the amperage. As for connecting the batteries together to start the car, you can wire the terminals together and add a switch as well to keep them disconnected until you need to start the car in an emergency. As long as you have beefy switches you should have no problems.
So instead of a battery isolator like the one in the video, can I just use a circuit breaker?
Good demo and products well explain. It's refreshing to see a company focusing on quality rather than advertising just how cheap their products can be. I refuse to purchase from anyone that uses the word 'cheap' in any of their marketing paraphernalia. I feel that any company that pushes the word 'cheap' is telling me that their stuff doesn't really work all that well, but we promise to only take some of your money so that you can spend later.
Yes, that SGP32 will work fine to separate your two batteries. Both batters will be connected when the engine is on, so both will charge. Once the engine is off, only your Kinetik battery will power your system.
You could get the XS Power D4800 to replace your stock battery and forgo a second battery. You can have two of the same battery or different batteries, just make sure you use a battery isolator so the batteries don't drain each other. A battery is meant to let you play your system when the vehicle is turned off, what you really want to do is upgrade your alternator.
The fuse is meant to protect the wire from overheating and being damaged. It is not meant to protect the equipment unless the equipment does not have a fuse at all. If you are running 4 gauge wire you need 125A fuse, if you have 0 gauge go with 200A fuse or more.
In the case of main battery is dead. Can you hook a set of jumper cables to the second battery to jump start your vehicle; or will the isolator prevent this?
So you could install both and have the best of both worlds correct? Normal operation of the diode isolator. But if you're starting battery is depleted you could kick over the solenoid and use the other battery.
You can keep your stock battery and add a battery to the back using a 200A isolator so you have room for power fluctuations.
i have 2 batteries parallel wired and i need to install an isolator. Will 1 isolator be sufficient to handle those as well as my car battery? Also I have a 200 amp Stinger relay isolator, should i stick with this or change to a diode?
The question: I just added a new 2ndary battery in my 01 Silverado 8100. This is how I connected them, I connected the positive wire from the 2nd battery running it through a fuze into a solenoid to the positive end of the primary battery. the negative wire from the 2nd battery into the frame. Is this correct?
You need to upgrade your alternator. You have to make power to get power and that is the alternators job. You could add a second battery but that isn't going to fix your problem.
If both batteries are connected to the diode isolator, and one battery is fully charged, what voltage will the isolator present to the alternator? Will
It still show low voltage so that the alternator will keep sending current to try to charge the battery?
With the non-solenoid isolator, will it hurt the isolator if the batteries are connected in parallel temporarily?
So which one is better to get
Ok so I have a 55 Agm up front and I wanna add a 80 ah Agm in back , so should I use a diode or just regular isolator? If I use a diode would the front battery not matter for my saystem no being able to use the 55 ah ? If I use a regular isolator would it be able to use both batteries for my system? I need help asap
🔴 Can i run a positive wire from my alternator directly to my secondary agm battery in the trunk
We would suggest you get the system professionally installed considering your system is probably very high wattage. If you didn't have an upgraded electrical system then this is the main cause.
You would have to understand how electricity works. When there is a difference in voltage, electricity will go to the lowest voltage until it equalizes with everything else. The alternator has a voltage regulator and if one battery is low, it will automatically be filled up because of the difference in voltage. Once both batteries are full, there is a no voltage difference, so the voltage regulator decreases the output of energy.
The NVX BIR200 is a great battery isolator for a stellar price.
I'm using a standard 12 volt utv battery and a deep cycle battery for the accessories. I just need to make sure main UTV battery doesn't loose voltage as it runs the engine and transmission on my utv. And the transmission doesn't have a long life if it's run low on voltage
Great video! My personal favorite parking lot pimping lol
Do those isolator work with alternators and baterrys who are effected be hv ceramic capacitors?
I use plasma ignition system and me starting charge rpm get effected be those hv capacitors from 1k starting sharge it goes up to 2500-3000k rpm.
So any hade experiance with such problem ?
And how wuld isolator work with lead acid baterry with capacitor banks ?
Hey sonic ele can I use a 200amp battery lsolator on a Alternator off 160amp I have 2010 chevy Tahoe got two Amp and 2 12'" speakers 🔊 What do you think
If I use a 110V AC to 12V DC Converter Power Supply will an isolator keep my square drop camper battery charged as well as keeping it from over charging when plugged into shore power?
Would this be the best way for me to keep the camper battery from over charging when I am plugged into shore power or is there something else I should use?
Is there a way to automatically cut the aux battery off before it drains to low?
How do you avoid the main battry depleted power issue with the Diode setup??
You had me at the Offspring! Also, thanks for the simple explanation.
I just ordered a battery isolator relay and im going to wire it up exactly like the one in the video. My question is, could i wire in a switch on the wire from the isolator to the ignition to control when the second battery is getting charged? And having the isolator wired up the same as the one in the video, how would you wire it up to be able to use your second battery to jump start your main? Ive read that all it takes is an extra wire and a switch but not sure how to wire it up.
On the diode isolator what would happen if you connected the car battery to the center post and the car battery post to the house battery?
since the second battery is running the audio equipment and not starting the vehicle, would it be possible to use a smaller, battery, I'm not sure what the options are, but not a giant lead acid car battery? I've seen jump start boxes that are tiny and would easily fit in a glove box, but I don't know if anything similar could be wired into the system and be used to run the audio.
At 2:20 I already have a remote and ground wire connected to my amp.
Can I just run the remote and ground wire from the battery isolator to the amp?
Got a question. So basically if you only play your system with your vehicle on with a upgraded alternator there no need for a secondary battery even if I’m running a T2 1500 amp and T2 400 x 4 amp and playing it at a high volume.
so if I have no plans on playing system while car is off, I do not need the isolater ?
if I get a dial isolator can I have an acid battery on the front and gel batteries on the back and won't affect them and with that is it still necessary to do the Big 3 upgrade
You should upgrade your alternator first, especially with that kind of power. After that, you can add a battery or two if you plan to play the system with your vehicle off.
Can I 2 regulator rectifier instead of battery isolator for motorcycle?
Instead of the ignition wire can I use a 12-volt 15 amp switch to activate the solenoid. I would like it to when I flip the switch to turn on a amperage / wattage meter and activate the solenoid so it's drawing off that battery for an inverter. But still be able to charge both batteries if that switch is off.
Another way to put it is how can I have it wired it to a switch to turn an Inverter / amp meter on and off. I do not want it drawing on the accessories on the aux battery if my engine is off unless I want it to, that's why I want it wired to a switch.
This might sound dumb but wat if hook it up directly to my system on my road king instead of putting a 2nd battery
I am looking to install a secondary battery in my Eurovan to run electronics when the ignition is off. My question is how hard is a dual battery set up w/isolator on a factory alternator? Just the charge itself, does it put alot of strain on the alternator or does it act as if it is charging a single battery? Just trying to see if i will need to upgrade to a larger alternator before installing a secondary batt.
I also need the answer to your question!
Perfect. It is good what I had understood at the beginning then.
I use of the 50mm ² (I am French), thus which corresponds of 0 gauge, and thus it is good fuses of 200A which I need.
Thank you very much of your help.
More than all the system has to install.
SonicElectronix really at the top, thanks.
Hi.. I have diesel truck ..with 2 batteries with 12v system ..but I have 2 batteries on the back to run a 24v winch ... Can I install an isolator ? Any diagram or video how to conect ..thx in advance
I have a PAC 200 relay, and the instructions that came with it says to hook one of the large terminals directly to the alternator +, and the other large terminal to the secondary house battery what is the difference between that and hooking the large terminal directly to the staring battery? Is the alternator connect more safe or something?
So what type of isolator do I need if my amp is pushing 3,000 RMS of power?
GREAT video great explanation, im gettin a relay thanks
On the pac 200 battery ISO it says to run it from the alt, but you say that it can be ran from the primary battery terminal... Is there a difference
Isolator or not, I always keep a fully charged jump starter in my van. You just never know.
I gotta flashlight that jumpstart a car, 20$ on clearance 🤣😎
I have two 12inch polk momo subs not sure on the watts of them, but they are DVC running at 1 ohm on a Memphis 1000.1 mono D amp I have a Memphis Cap as well. Coming to see that Caps aren't really needed and aren't what they are mean to be. My 95 chevy 1500 5.7 is seeing major voltage drops when ever the system is up I'm dropping from 14.4 volts to a low of 10 sometimes what steps should be taken to not cause harm. I have noticed the yellow top is getting harder to start the truck as well.
QUESTION IF YOU PLEASE? I HAVE A 2000 BMW 328CI AND WANT TO RUN AN EXTRA BATTERY TO RUN THE SYSTEM THAT I AM PUTTING IN. I WOULD DEFINATELY BUY AN OPTIMA (RED OR YELLOW?) AS SCOND BATTERY, BUT DO I HAVE TO REPLACE THE FACTORY BATTERY TOO? ...CONT.
Exactly what I needed to know, thanks :)
LOKING ON YOU WEBSITE AND WAS WONDERING IF I GOT 120 AMP ALTERNATOR WHATS SIZE ISOLATOR SHOULD I GET FOR 2 BATTERY USE STARTUP AND ACCESORYUSE OF120-30 AMPS?
Sweet mates! Cheers for posting!!
If I want to hook up a cb and amp what do I use to do that and if the main battery goes dead and want ti use. The second battery to start it what do I use?
so if you had a 3000 watt amplifier and wanted to add a 14v battery you would want a 300 amps isolator? is that right? or am I missing something
i may just get a bigger battery. if i do should i up my 105 amp alternator to 150 amp to get a 100 % charge?
Sorry to disturb you still. I have a small question concerning fuses. I know that it is necessary to place one fuse after the main battery and one fuse front the secondary battery, enters is Stinger SGP32.
But here we are, which capacity of the fuse I have to put? The alternator is one 150A, 2 batteries are Optima Blue + KinetikHC2400 (55A+128A=183A).
Fuse of the big ampli: 200A. I have to put 2 fuses of 200A each on the line where is the SGP32? Thank you in advance.
I appreciate the info. I am thinking about adding a 2nd battery to the trunk of my car as I typically sit parked with my strobes going for extended periods. I'm a security guard so I have to make sure I'm seen. I am still not sure if I want double capacity or just an extra battery to help jump the original or simply a separate power source for my lights. I'm kinda lost and not sure which to pick.
Isolate the second battery and use it to run accessories (like strobe lights) that will place a draw on that battery. It will function as a separate power source for the lights but will still be charged by the alternator. In the event that your starting battery is drained (due to leaving the headlights on, etc) and your isolated battery is still sufficiently charged, you can use jumpers to provide power to the starting battery and start the vehicle. You may or may not have to disconnect the isolated battery to prevent damage to the diode/relay.
How would you hook up an isolator in a 2007 Tahoe as the install instructions for the stinger 240amp say it is not compatible with the alt wire setup?
FET Battery Isolators (popular in marine applications) have about 95% less power consumption compared to diode isolators. If having fully charged batteries is a concern, FETs are superior to diodes.
good video, right to the point
If the second battery is totally dead, will the second battery try to totally drain the primary battery once the solenoid isolator is activated? Will this cause a huge surge between both batteries?
Why are there so many YT vids thday show wiring two batteries directly parallel with no isolator.
I usec to tinker with audio back in THE eatly 90s.
Did something change?
You always need an isolator for multiple batteries. It would be better if you had a fuse before AND after.
Hello,
I am French and I adore your site.
I would have a small question: For my project " show car", I possess in main battery one Optima Blue of 55Ah and in secondary battery, I would have Kinetik HC2400 of 128Ah. I thought has to put Stinger SGP32, is it good? I possess an alternator 150A and "big 3 Upgrade ". The sound system will turn only car turned on, and Stinger SGP32 will bustle with the sound system (remote?). Thank you in advance for your help.
I have a 2019 Escalade and tried a diode isolator and was not able to get any juice at all to start my car
Thank you very much.
I am thus going to order soon Stinger SGP32 to couple my two batteries. Thank you for your help.
I have a Question...
I'm using my brothers old system and the deck is 52w x 4 , so its 208 and the amp to the two subwoofers is 600w, i have a battery now that does 500amp in winter and 600 amp in the summer, should i get a new battery? I was thinking about getting Kinetik. So if i need it should i buy the hc600 or the hc800 ?
I have a question,
So which one would be the best, the solenoid/relay isolator or the diode isolator?
Cause i'm a person who uses there system like crazy and I do have two batteries.
I bought a diode isolator and it says you have to disconnect the alternator and only have it connected to the center of the isolator. Can you do what you showed and just run an additional line from the alternator?
How does the big 3 connections go when adding the diode isolator? Do you connect the 0/1 ga from alt to center diode and ground everything to frame separate?
some one please answer this.
Ok good video, now that i know i want a solenoid isolator what size do i want? Is there a math formula to combine the amps from x amount of batteries to determine size of isolator?
Great video! Is it a bad idea to trigger the solenoid with the accessory wire? Thanks!!
That is a great idea why hasn’t anyone commented here
can I put the isolator in the trunk with battery#2?
Need to do one for the smart isolator
quoting offspring got ya an automatic like 👌🤘
THE SYSTEM THAT I AM DOING IS 1- ORION XTR 600.4 (2 SETS KAPPAS MIDBASS COMPONENT WITH TWEETS) AND 1-ORION 250R HCCA (2 10" OR 12" SUBS, NOT SURE WHAT SUBS YET) TOTALLING IF IM CORRECT ABOUT 120 AMPS. ANYWAY.... IS 2 OF THE SAME BATTERIES NECCESARY TO BUY? COULD NOT HAVING SAME BATTERY SCREW SOMETHING UP? WILL USING A DIODE ISOLATOR SOLVE THIS PROBLEM? AND IF SO, OTHER ISSUE ARISES!? UGH!? ISSUE ABOUT VOLTAGE DROP IS ON MY MIND, AND IF THAT CAN CAUSE PROBLEM? WOULD APPRECIATE THOROUGH ADVICE THX
what if you have two starting batteries (diesel truck) and a third battery in your attached camper. Can you isolate the two starting batteries from the third RV battery
Can you add the Isolator to the negative side?
What if you have a modern vehicle where the alternator shuts off when the primary battery doesn't need charging?
Then you should sell that pos vehicle...
@@beepbeep3011 typical answer for a Scrub who doesn't know Auto Electric.
Your isolator would need to be able to handle it. Take your systems RMS wattage and knock off one 0, that is the amperage of the isolator you need.
what about just running both batteries in parallel?
Hi.what is the highest charging voltage of aux battery while connecting thru diode isolator?
Depends on your vehicle's charging system. For example if your alternator is hitting 14.8 volts on a true cold start and settling in around 13.4, the battery downstream from the diode would only see about 14.2 peak and 12.9 floating. Again, these are just examples, but with diodes in a 12V system you can expect to see a 0.4-0.5V drop from passing through the diode.
Now, one way to defeat this is to put a second diode in the reference voltage circuit from your alternator to your ECU, which will boost your charging systems output by roughly the same amount. However, if you have an AGM as a primary battery, you would want to make sure that you're not going above 15 volts at a cold start before or after. If you modified it to compensate and started seeing 15.5V, you will kill your primary battery fast, and could also have problems with one or many computer or other electronic related sensors etc in the vehicle.
hi. i want upgrade my power system.i have 2 amp rf 500 and 400w .second battery is
XS Power XP750-CK what isolator i heve to buy? thx
Diode, or Solenoid? What is the best option?
Also, could I just hook up another wire from my alternator to the auxiliary battery using a solenoid relay to power my stereo system? I have a 2013 hyundai elantra with a 250 amp alternator, the big 3, and a solid state agm xs power battery . The stereo is 2 amps, 1 amp running close to 2000 watts rms and another amp class ab drawing 600 watts. I have a secondary battery ready as I suffer severe dimming headlights. I want to try to avoid voltage drop as much as possible.
Very helpfully thank you!
Hello,
May I please ask: Can I hook this solenoid/relay battery isolator to my remote wire?
If not, I’d like to know why?
If so, I’d like to know how... Would I need a 30A relay or?
Thank you all very much for your input and advice. Have a lovely day,
-Derek
ok , do u have a good one in mind to go with the hc600, like maby get a deal on it ?
Hey so could I wire my alternator to both batteries and the diode isolator to avoid the voltage drop? Is that possible? If not, could I keep my charge wire on my primary battery and hook up another wire to the diode isolator and just hook up the two batteries to the diode?
when you hook the battery isolator up to a constant power source, like the ignition wire, how do you know which wire? Or am I misunderstanding the "hook-up," location? Thanks
AustralianCroc - If you're talking about the solenoid style isolator, the two large terminals are connected to the two batteries positive terminals. The two smaller terminals are used to turn the solenoid on (internally linking the two batteries when the engine is running) so both batteries get charged by the alternator. So one of the small terminals is connected to ground, and the other small terminal is connected to a SWITCHED 12 volt source, that's only hot when the vehicle is running. Hope that helps.
So just run a wire from the positive of one battery to the positive of the other with a switch in between? Dont think you would have to wire the negatives to each other would ya? And what kind of switch would you need?
nice clip! is there any concern of overcharging? what if you do have a solar charging controller connected to the 2nd battery, any concern? thanks
The solar charger should see the high voltage when the vehicle was running and stop charging, and both the diode and relay would stop the charger from charging the first battery.
Hi, i have a question.
Do you have to have circuit breakers/fuses to each battery? If the isolator is already capable of handing just say 140amps. Does that mean if i were to have 70 amp fuses between each battery, that each battery will only be getting that power? if i were to install an amp on the aux battery that uses 100amps. Would that mean because i already have a 70amp fuse before the 100amp fuse that it will not supply 100 amps power?
I would rather not have circuit breakers if possible
I have a 200 amp alternator and a optima redtop as my battery, running a 1000 Watt rms amplifier. should I add a second battery?
Matthew Cousineau - If you have the vehicle running while playing the sound system, that setup should be fine. But if you plan on doing much "engine off" listening, then I would add a deep cycle agm in the back, close to the amp, and use a solenoid type isolator in the power line running between the front and rear battery. That way your amp just pulls from the rear battery while the vehicle is off, and you don't have to worry about the redtop being drained.
how big of a isolator do you need for a total of around 3000 watts on the subs, mids and highs