Miniature Pawl Linkage -- Lets change the design.......
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 17 ноя 2024
- Check off a few more pieces of the miniature shaper.
SHOP GEM INCLUDED !!
This is a PM Research scale model machine tool
Patreon Support: / joepie
Website: www.advancedin...
Web Store: www.advancedin...
Amazon Affiliate Links: NOTE, as an amazon affiliate I do earn a small royalty from sales linked here.
Indicol 178: amzn.to/3NycM4s
Generic: amzn.to/3QZ6xK3
Postage Scale: amzn.to/3oCxeY0
Always mesmerized by your perfect way of tackling order of proceeding a project, your shop gems and your perfection in detail and if necessary redoing parts in a better design.
I bet your wife had to wait with dinner this time😁
She's been very patient over the years.
That is some great work on some very small parts & as always, the Shop Gems are awesome.
Thank you very much!
Wow!!! That is a great setup for enlarging existing holes.
It really is.
Definitely liked your design better than the print. Thanks for your channel.
Always love the rotary table ops, that has always been difficult for me to grasp.
I still have to think about which way to turn that dial.
This is why i watch this channel. For the tips and tricks!!!! Thanks Joe.
You bet!
One could say that was a pivotal change you made there Joe. 😉
Loving the fractional metric. It's not our fault that 61/64 of the world is wrong. You could cobble up a little knurled thumb screw for the rod adjustment. That would be an amazing video. Thank you Joe.
The world has shown another weak point. Get ready for an unloosened 3/4" undersize 20 mm thread.
very good video joe..thanks for your time
Lovely job, Joe - I couldn’t have lived with using the screw thread as a pivot, either !
Kind regards to you and yours,
Steve A.
Thanks Steve.
Hope you and yours are well and safe and happy too!! Thanks for sharing!
No sound on the accelerated footage? OMG he's killed the angry, angry chipmunks!
Lol!
Great comment.
And the Austin Grand Prix.
That part at the beginning about intersecting holes is a nice little teaching piece. I designed hundreds, maybe thousands, of hydraulic port and valve blocks during my career and these issues came into heavy consideration. Thanks for the video Joe; as usual it was very informative.
thanks for the upload, like the mini-mini stuff !
joe, at minut 16.15, jou said that screw was 80 thou and that supposed to be 1.5 millimeter, but 80 thou is a little bit more then 2 mm .
from inch to metric is approximately dividing by 2.5...
btw, nice modification....
Its an 0-80 imperial screw. Sorry for the decimal/imperial confusion. That wasn't intended to be an .080 comment.
@@joepie221 oh, ok, my fault, i,m from the netherlands 🙂
Interesting plan (at 18:02) I was thinking it would be an idea to replace the commercial fixing with a shop made one with the correct shoulder. Good work, many thanks for the tips.
Tks Joe for the great tips you bring to the table. A suggestion - replace the slot head screws with small hex head i use all BA screws in my modelling here in Australia a 10 BA or 12BA hex head would look much better
great video Joe- your tricks on the rotary table never end . I love them 1
Glad you like them! I enjoy using it.
Hi Joe,
Another couple of parts finished. I like your redesign of the pawl mechanism. That's the way it should have been designed originally. Doesn't matter if it's a scale model, common machine practices should still be used when designing moving parts. You and your family stay safe.
Thank you. Its a fussy area with major pinch and failure potential. I still plan to change it again.
Beautiful modification! I love watching your work.
I'm glad there were other comments like mine. That 'threaded pivot' screamed nooooo in my head and I yelled out loud, 'You can't DO that!' It's not the accuracy, it's the steel grinding brass. Gives me shivers.
Me too. Something done at this level just shouldn't have linkage like that.
"Joe Pie self destructs" LOL. Scared the daylights out of the cat sleeping on my lap. Priceless.
Sorry about the cat thing. I love animals.
Nice alteration from the supplied plans. The shop gem is real world useful. Thanks.
Greetings my friend. Its a step in the right direction, but I'll address it one more time before I'm done. Contact me offline, we need to talk.
I luv your fractional metric system!!!
And what's wrong with 10 and seven eighths millimetres? lol
Thursday afternoon of a long weekend when old mate was finishing up the design Joe! 🤣 Great video good sir...thankyou!
VERY ingenious solution to the problem. I thought you were going to make a shouldered screw to lessen the loose fit. Now, send a Revision Order to PM. 😊
We speak.
I like you modification for sure. THANKS for sharing your time and knowledge!
My pleasure.
You make it look so easy. I do think you for teaching me how to math my way through any issue.
Thanks for more enjoyment - invariably your own tweaks make total sense and only serve to improve. Amazing number of really small parts - the labor of love continues . :)
Almost done.
Enjoyed Joe ! lots of good info...coming along nicely !!
Its almost time to assemble it. Gettin close !
Nice conversion and it does appear to work a lot better.
Never like to see a functioning part located off the threaded portion of a fastener. Nice job of redesigning this mechanism. Thanks for sharing Joe.
Thanks. Screws shouldn't be used that way.
I'm bookmarking this one as there are a lot of good tips here that will be useful to remind myself of occasionally. Thanks!
Thanks Michael, Glad it was helpful!
I think a stud would be a good choice too - since you could leave the holes alone.
There is literally no room to work. It much bigger on your screen.
@@joepie221 TY - I'll believe the man in the area
Another GREAT video full of lessons, luv the shop gem….simple/smart
Thanks Chuck 👍
Thanks for the lesson today joe. I’ve been missing the “white board” segments in your videos!
Hey Joe,
Why not make a shoulder bolt to fix that slop problem with the linkage you show from 16:45 onwards?
The camera makes it look much bigger. A shoulder bolt would stabilize it, but not eliminate the 'still present' pawl pinch potential.
@@joepie221 Thanks.
When I was doing a lot of robotics shoulder bolts where like frosting on a donut for gripper assemblies when you don't have a lot of room and weight is premium. They weren't ever necessary but they made it so much better if you had things that needed to be taken off and on which you get with robot grippers.
Lovely work as always, and I always appreciate the machinist tips and tricks.
For the sloppy bolt problem, I like your solution, but there is of course more than one way to skin a cat. I think my own solution to that sloppy bolt would have been to make a small shoulder-bolt rather than all the other modifications you did. That way the smooth surface of the shoulder of the shoulder-bolt would form the bearing surface, rather than the original plan's use of the crests of the bolt-thread being the bearing surface which is never a good idea. (In this particular case my approach would require a precision lathe suitable to machine such a small thread on the end of a custom shoulder bolt)
Its a 3 part assembly. when the threads retreat, the pawl locks up. Its close, but not bullet proof yet. Even a shoulder screw isn't the final fix.
Great little project, Joe. Just a suggestion for you, but if you drill a small hole in the top of the pawl and embed a piece of lead or tungsten shot into the part, it would give a more reliable index. Thanks for letting me hang out in your shop today!
Anything with greater weight would help for sure.
HI ! I have made the mistake just once when doing intersecting holes. It was an 1-1/2 hole that the bit pulled the piece out of the vise. It was before I realized I have the gift to appreciate the feedback from a machine and have used that gift since then some now 45+ years ago. This is great. It sure beats watching Bad Boys II for the 4th or 5th time eh. The "SLOP" in that part is really inexcusable. Apparently this was not constructed before sending these kits all over the flipping world. It can only get worse over time. Oh my, The walls are as you say, , , THIN. Your changes worked fine but I am surprised you didn't make new/different pieces to rectify that situation but it will most likely only have to work for just a few pieces before turning into a dust collector. A good looking dust collector at that eh, LOL. Thanks Joe, You saved my evening my friend. ONWARD EH!
Love watching you set up to mill tiny parts,,,,my nerves get on edge just watching 👍😜
Mine too Bear.
Thanks to you, I find gage pins as useful as parallels. I use them almost every day
Me too. I try very hard not to abuse them though.
Good stuff Joe! Nice mod! It's like it should be! Thanks! 👍😎✌️🇺🇸
Pretty close. I'll sleep on it.
Awesome awesome.. moving in the right direction..great job
Yes that looks so much better. Less slop for sure.
loved how you made things right! Please keep up the great work.
I agree, much improved design> Cheers
Thanks. Its a step in the right direction.
Joe, great video as always. But there's a flaw in your mod. It's ok for the model but in real life you need to be able to adjust the rod length when you change table height. It should be easy to reach and preferably from the outside. It would be awkward on my shaper if the screw were on the inside. Just my opinion.
I wondered about that myself. Perhaps a tiny hex head bolt would work or making the block thicker at the top so the set screw could go in from the side rather than the end?
Maybe I'll make a 90 degree block. I like the thought.
Liked your modification👌👌. Great set up tips as well. It's really starting to take shape now. Well done!!
Good luck from Spain!!
Thanks. We're getting close.
Hey Joe, SWEET thanks for the SHOP GEM, did you find the gauge pin? Haha Setting up my rotary table to try my hand at this Thank
I found it.
Thanks Joe
Like the clearance, Clarence.
I often feel when watching these videos that I'm getting a free apprenticeship in machining. Thank you.
I can't take it with me when I go, so I'm happy to pass it on now. Glad you see it that way.
Me too!
@@joepie221 that's so generous of you to do this for all of us Joe, I'm only a hobby guy now but I'm a much better one for your shop tuition, so thank you very much.
Awesome as always, thanks for sharing buddy
Happy to do so. Thanks for your continued positive comments. Its noticed and appreciated.
Beautiful detail work.Thank you.
Thank you very much!
HEY JOE! Great job as usual. Thanks for doing what you do. Very inspiring. (pretty sure that line was in the Hendrix song)
Very nice work Joe, well done. Regards Frank
Back when I was working in the machine shop, I thought of a way to do metric conversion with my fingers.
On my left hand I count .040 per finger, 1 mm per finger. And on my right hand I count .200 per finger, 5 mm per finger
If you're trying to impress someone or you need to be a little more accurate, you can subtract an additional .0005 for every finger on the left hand and .003 for every finger on the right hand.
I use .04 as well. Close enough to get by.
Another thing I wish someone taught me, when putting a cosmetic chamfer on the hole. The outside diameter of the chamfer should be 10% larger than the major diameter of the hole.
This becomes extremely useful and time saving when chamfering threaded holes on CNC, as you should chamfer before tapping. This way you won't damage the lead thread and in some cases you can chamfer with the same tool you spot drill with.
Please let me know if this is common knowledge, 10% is easy to calculate in your head and it has worked for me for years
@@andrewpopoff3453
I used to work in a facility that built automotive engines. A lot of the tapped holes were drilled for a relief maybe .050 deep and around .030 to .060 over the thread size. No surface distortion from the tap. Plus on things that got finished matched after tapping. Such as the ends of the blocks or head faces. The finish machining did not damage the tapped holes. When machining engine blocks in mass production the features every thing is based on are the oil pan rail and the manufacturing holes in the pan rail. Every thing is measured from those two things. You have to locate to something. And you have to clamp against some surface
@@mpetersen6 Thanks for the helpful tips on c’bored tapped holes in engine blocks and location surfaces used for manufacturing. Good to know how mass production saves time and money.
@@mpetersen6 I'm sorry think I missed your point, yes relieving the first .050 is a good way to protect the threads and the drill will leave a conical feature to help start the tap.
I was taught to countersink/chamfer the holes before reaming or tapping, as the reamer or tap will remove any displaced material/Burr in the hole.
These orders of operation don't really matter until they do, if all of your tools are Sharp that will also help mitigate the issue.
When assembling something with a lot of reamed dowel holes, it saves a lot of time if you don't have to deburr every hole, and if the screws basically thread themselves in as there's no burr on the lead threats. I have certainly retapped holes because the screw wouldn't start easily with my fingers
Brilliant work as ever!
Thanks Joe
Nice upgrade thank you Joe for another great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
It's much better Joe. Nice solution. Thank you!
Getting closer to ideal.
@@joepie221 Add a small spring and you're there ;-)
I would of made a shouldered retaining bolt for the linkage, but your idea was just as good.
This is a very tricky little area. Although its miles better than it was, its still flawed. I hope to show why someday.
Hi joe, the motion work wheel on a clock I made used a thread for a pivot and I thought it was a bad idea until I read up on it. The reason was the thread retains the clock oil. I’m not saying you do the same but Anyway you’ve done a nice job as always.
Yes but you could have held an imperial gallon in the gap between the pawl and the screw!
@@samrodian919 yes on Joe's example but not on my clock it was a good fit.
Joe, can you please make a video on holding solutions for the toolmakers vice to the rotary table?
What an astetic difference a few mill makes to a round end feature!
I was in the neighborhood anyway. :)
I really want you to know I enjoy this series very much. I have a question! As i was looking at the mechanism it seemed to me that it would only move the table in one direction. If I am right, could the mechanism be redesigned to move the table in both directions. As always, great video! looking forward to the next installment. KOKO!
With that ratchet feed on a shaper they are only supposed to actually feed on the return stroke.
Ratcheting in both directions would require two pawls with opposite facing teeth on the same shaft and two levers. One lever would be flipped back for the other to work.
Once again a great job Joe! Your way is considerably better. One other way it could have been done was by making a new bolt rather than a screw with the unthreaded part turned to the diameter of the hole in the pawl to eliminate the slack, but your way is much nicer! Oh and by the way how is your Achilles' tendon getting on? Are you able to stand for a full day on your feet constantly now? I hope so!
The tendon recovery is really slow. There is nerve issues and unexpected numbness that is really difficult to function with, but at least I can walk and climb stairs. Thanks for asking.
@@joepie221 keep at it mate. Nerve damage can be very painful and make your life a misery sometimes but they do grow back. I many years ago slipped with a thin bladed screwdriver and inserted it into the ball of my right thumb. The thumb was totally numb on one side for about ten months until the nerve grew back stuck to it Joe it will get better!
Just goes to prove there are more than one way to get er done! Just saying 🤣 George from Indiana
Yes sir George.
Brilliant work Joe, but wouldn't making your own pin screw from scratch have been easier? Another thing, I've noticed for brass you use HSS cutters, is that best for turning brass or is there another reason?
Tools for machining brass need to be very sharp, usually with a small radius on the tip for a better finish. Carbide works best slightly dull so not the best choice for brass and soft metals.
Admittedly, I probably would have turned a custom shoulder bolt (screw) instead of re-drilling holes in the pawl and the first part you machined at the beginning of this video, then using a die to cut the threads afterwards. As long as it works. Getter done! BTW, do you know of a source for small, metric (diameter) end mills? I need one just a smidgen short of 1/16”, or just shy of 1.588 mm.
Hey Joe, where you goin' with that gun in your hand! I don't blame you, that fitment is just not right. I wandered across this video mainly because I've got a 12 or 14 inch shaper from the 19th century I need to clean up and put back in working order, been sitting a few decades, idle. You did a credible job redesigning those parts, much better as you completed them. Thanks, always a pleasure.
Thank you.
what t about a change of screw to a shoulder type bolt? To tighten up he part. Just thinking .
The length of the threaded end on the shoulder bolt would be super critical. It has to be long enough to lock the rod but short enough so that the shoulder bottoms out.
Nicely done
Thanks for the video Joe.
You bet
I think i would have remade the screw with a long shoulder, the way you have it means the head of the screw is towards the table making it harder to adjust the stroke of that shaft.
Great point. Maybe a 90 degree placement shift would solve that. Screw on the top.
Lovely fine work joe
Many thanks!
Great job Joe
Thanks.
I like the important, Looks stronger
i think maybe a weight, like a lead rod drilled into and glued into the end of the pawl. it worked better before because it was so sloppy and those threads offered no bearing resistance. Further you could incorporate the weight with a catch so it can be disabled
Any weight would help. The pawl is so light, you can hardly feel it on your fingertip.
Let me just say I really enjoy your work, but I probably would have put the set screw on the bottom but you would need different material. Or I would have left the back end square with nice big chamfers on it, but that's all cosmetic and you do beautiful work
Take a closer look at the assembly video. I relocated the screw to the top, 90 degrees to the screw holding the pawl.
@@joepie221 that is exactly how I would have designed that part, one of these days I would like to go to Texas and buy you a beer
hi joe ... magic in action as always. i gess watch makeing does com in handy.. lololol thanks joe. Tone UK
I had much better eyes and steadier hands back then.
Dear Joe,
thank you for another good video. The improvement in play was huge. I would observe that as designed the feed mechanism on the cross feed is uni directional whereas pretty much all shapers have a reversible feed. A ratchet pawl like this is pretty much unkown and is a compromise because the sprung reversible pawl of a standard shaper feed would be nearly impossible to replicate at this scale. (Challenge anyone)? the teeth on the ratchet of a shaper are cut square across as housings such that the ratchet shaper will be able to drive in both directions. Whilst it is probably not possible to produce the sprung reversible detent of a standard shaper mechanism the flip over pawl of the Gingery shaper would be.
There are examples of the Gingery shaper on this very website.
I'd like to see that.
@@joepie221 Unfortunately I am not quite tech savvy enough to send you a link but on the makercise channel on youtube there is a complete episodic build of the gingery shaper.
There is also a very good example titled modified gingery shaper.
It is simplicity itself
@@joepie221 ruclips.net/video/JZdbNWoySo0/видео.html
Aha! Managed it. Here is the modified gingery shaper
@@joepie221 And here is the makercise feed mechanism video.
You are a master at the rotary table, though - impressive.
It keeps you thinking. For sure.
Is there a spring going on the pawl? Or is it just gravity? The pawl looks a little stiff maybe?
Gravity. It still has a design flaw, but the slop has been eliminated.
Nicely done !
Thanks!
thanks for sharing beautiful work
Thank you!
Joe, did you get a manicure for this video? I'm not sure I've ever seen such well trimmed nails and cuticles ! ! ! 😄 I really like your modification. Screws should never be used for pivots. At least not screws with no straight shank portion.
Thank you. I have done extensive work in the medical/orthopedic community and got used to having surgically clean hands and nails. My surgeon customers appreciate it and so does my family.
yuo need to make a delrin bushing for that screw
I am wondering would it be a good idea for you to add a small spring to the ratchet to keep it on the gear?
Lee
Incorporating a leaf spring may be a good idea, but you'd still have to disable it for vertical work when you don't want the table to move.
Great job young man! So the table only advances in one direction ? Love your work . Hi from down under
I noticed that too.
I admire the precision. I do have a couple of questions. Shouldn't the shaft be just a titch LONGER than the depth of the combined bores of the pawl and the pivot? That pawl needs to rotate freely. The second question, aren't you going to have a heck of a time adjusting that rod in order to adjust the feed rate? At least with the screw coming from the original direction, you can loosen it, shorten the rod, and get a slower feed rate - or is that increasing, I forget, in any case, with the table on the cross slide, it's going to be even harder.
I think he was going to adjust the thickness of the pawl with emery to make it move more freely.
@@robertpearson8798 the question was about the second screw facing the table. In order to adjust the feed rate, you have to "unloosen" that screw and slide the shaft either direction to shorten, or lengthen the stroke. However, there may be available adjustment on the other end of the shaft.
@@alangrawien103 I was only addressing the first question.
@@alangrawien103 If you look at the print he showed right off, it threads into a collar. There won't be enough adjustment there.
@@robertpearson8798 Maybe. But it would have the same affect as making that shaft longer so the washer he made does not come in contact with the pawl.
So gravity alone forces the pawl down on the racket?
Correct. But.. Not sure I would rely on gravity on a part that weighs fractions of a gram.
@@joepie221 The originals probably used a spring. But try to model that.
@@joepie221 Using spent uranium might have improved that😆
Much better!!!
Great idea to change the design Joe. I agree, the original design was way too lose.
Love the RT work!
Thanks!
@@joepie221 also liked how you machined that insanely long skinny shaft. There was a guy on a facebook machinery for sale group who just bought his first lathe and was asking about books to buy. I suggested one and then told him to watch all your and Stefan’s videos. That will be a masterclass right there. Btw you need to get some smaller fingers 😜. Got any grand children yet?
AN 0-80 shoulder bolt? Oh, and an 0-80 Bellville washer;-) Scratch the Bellville washer, the ratchet paw is gravity operated.
Hi Joe, would it not have been closer to the original design to make a shoulder-bolt to replace the screw?
There is a pinch potential on the pawl in its current design configuration. A shoulder bolt wouldn't solve it. I've redesigned it again and may post the solution.
@@joepie221 Thanks Joe. We're all interested in the new design
Thanks Joe. The use of a threaded bar as a pivot - I don't believe the designer of this model was that stupid - maybe he intended to give the maker a few things to modify just to increase their satisfaction!
Always a bad idea.
Or perhaps they wanted to reduce the required skill level to build it and knew that more advanced makers would want to modify it.
Having anything pivoting on a screw thread has annoyed me for as long as I can remember and still makes me want to scream at You Tube video's when I see it being done.
I think I first saw it when I was about nine or ten, on a motorcycle my father was working on in the 1960's (few years before the Hendrix quote even, LOL)
The way the threads had worn into components making them bind up annoyed the hell out of my dad who HAD to fix it.
Having a spigot for parts to pivot on is a much better idea although a 'custom' bolt with a larger diameter shank for pivots could also be used. I would probably try a threaded 'tube' on bolt then turn it to diameter, have minimal wall thickness above thread crest rather than make a bolt 'from scratch.
I hate to see bolt threads used as precision locators. Recipe for failure.
Not sure that “2 1/3mm” wouldn’t cause some certain confusion at Metric Headquarters!
Thats the whole idea. :)
Hi, I don't see why it should, you regularly hear people say 'half a kilometre' so what is the difference?
Hang on Joe how did you hold that tapered shaft to get the threaded hole in the back?
The 5 degree transition area is short. I left a cylindrical section that fit a 3/32 collet perfectly. I maxed out my camera card and didn't show that. Sorry.