@@jameswilliams663 yup.. it went pretty smooth.. key elements are to thin it properly to avoid bubbles, plan your route, have everything well prepped and well thought out and set up before starting, don't rush the application and don't expect absolute perfection. I did a 1500 sq foot house and it still looks really good after 4 years. I used satin finish. Good luck!
You can tell youve done this a million times before. These are the kind of videos people want to see, not some DIYer documenting their first try at refinishing wood floors.
Definitely recommend: A) taking doors off hinges so they're out of the way B) not breathing directly into the mic ;) Otherwise, this is a great technique - thanks for sharing!
Did two coats. Each coat is drying super bubbly. Looks horrible. What am I doing wrong. Do I need to thin Out the oil based polyurethane with mineral spirits? It’s Behr oil based poly
WHO is Ur Cameraman SASQUATCH.? Future reference It's Probably Better 2 RUN the 400 meter Relay AFTER Capturing thus Video. Thank U 4 these pointers. Bless
Is that why I have bubbles? I’m in the middle of a project and I did it his way, except I used a lambswool applicator each coat is coming up super bubbly! Even when dry. I’m gonna sand it tomorrow and do a third coat I will have to figure out how to not have it drying with so much bubbles it’s unacceptable it looks horrible
Yeah, I'd be interested to know what product you're using here. I have a project I would love to use oil-based on this way, but I have always heard you're supposed to do it in a bunch of thin coats rather than pouring it on
Oil is self leveling.. id say youre using entirely too much as a first coat. also use a weighted Tbar, or add a clamp on weight12' up the handle. oil should be applied as thin as possible regardless of staining. if your first coat is too heavy, it'll take 3-4 days to harden enough to buff down . Though I prefer oil in my home, it just looks the best as the years go by.
My problem is seeing what he’s applying it with. Is it a mop? What kind? I don’t think it’s a squeegee. But he was using a teapot of all things to pour it.
Excellent! That's going to save my back this coming week as I over-seal my painted floor with book cut-out(s) glued down to the floor. My books are WWII Aviation nose-art, Aviation brand icons & my favorite artist of all times...Vincent Van Gogh ! Thanks!
Hi. A floor professional recently refinished our floors and used 3 coats of Duraseal oil-based poly (no stain) over a period of 3 days - giving a day of dry time between each coat. It has been 23 days since he completed the job and, while the finish is very hard and scratch-resistant, our floors still feel a bit tacky, especially if you walk on them in bare feet. We tried to slide across the floors in our socks and it's impossible to slide. We have been trying to find answers online and we're unsure if the floors are just not fully cured yet, or if there is an actual problem. The floors were done in September and the humidity was moderate. We did not run the air conditioner at all during the curing time - we kept the windows cracked and the fans going (as recommended by our contractor). When we called to ask why the floors are still sticky, he says it is because the weather is humid. It is October and we are having beautiful fall weather here in NJ. We read online that certain conditions or circumstances can cause the poly to not cure properly and that the floors could remain tacky forever. Should we be worried about this happening?
@@cejanuary9378 they had to have cured. It normally takes a month to fully cure. When you first do them they will be tacky. I’ll do them in a rental and no one is allowed back in for at least two weeks. I unless the place catches fire no one is allowed to go inside the property. After another three weeks max you can slide to hearts content.
This is the identical method used in the RUclips video, ‘ Bona - T Bar Application Method’. However, the Bona polyurethane used in that video is water based. I’m concerned that this method here would not be good for a newbie to attempt to lay down oil based poly. My concern is bubbles. Is my concern unfounded?
I have no trouble putting oil base on with a T bar but I have been doing it for a long time. I would suggest somebody new to this that rolling would be so much better for them with water base or oil base.
Can a thin layer of oil based be laid down with the T bar method? I ask because my understanding is that success is better achieved when, atleast the first layer, is a thin layer. And it appears to me that the pull method might yield less bubbles than the rolling method. Thanks
@@jedgould5531 Hi Jed, asking you because you were active here less than a week ago- how long will it take this coat to dry, that we see applied in this video? Thank youy!
Thanks for this video, did you stain this floor before hand? I used a natural stain on red oak and it seemed to darken the wood too much, I figure if I add a poly my floor would be too dark. Can oil based poly be applied to a floor without a stain?
Words of advice for all. If you want 0 headaches... use an upgraded waterbased poly ! It may be 10 dollars more a gallon but its worth it. Higher abrasion testing, doesn't turn yellow over time, doesnt smell, dries quickly, most UV proof (doesnt leave squares around a carpet). There's no comparison.
ll SLAY ll iv Ben using Pro oil based Polly smells Horrible I wear a mask. Iv read half put down second coat after 4-6 hours but oil takes LONG time. I waited over 12 Hours and some spots not cover well rather I not use enough or you must sand on every Coat.
@@danielcilella5887 Bad waterbased products are the worst, oilbased are middle of the pack, and the absolute best are expensive waterbased products that come with a catalyst. Generally $140 a gallon or more.
I agree with you, but my wife likes the amber tone the oil based polyurethane could create over time. I failed to convince her to use water based poly.
Carefully apply while making sure to walk over it.
thank you for this vid
The moment I saw a polyurethane application, I wondered why nobody was using a squeegee. It just seems so instinctive.
I would wear a mask, especially indoors
I've watched a bunch of videos on poly application and yours is the best! thanks
Did you end up using the T Bar method? How did it go?
@@jameswilliams663 yup.. it went pretty smooth.. key elements are to thin it properly to avoid bubbles, plan your route, have everything well prepped and well thought out and set up before starting, don't rush the application and don't expect absolute perfection. I did a 1500 sq foot house and it still looks really good after 4 years. I used satin finish. Good luck!
It's the heavy breathing for me 😂😂😂
Geez Darth video on the camera needs to lay off the pall malls
This is the video to watch. Everybody else has no idea what theyr'e doing. A lot of people think its like painting, but its not.
This is absolutely the best way to do it.. every now and then, check your work against the natural window light and make sure you don’t leave a ridge.
You can tell youve done this a million times before. These are the kind of videos people want to see, not some DIYer documenting their first try at refinishing wood floors.
Call ambo for camera guy..dont do something 20yrs, go with the new technology & styles its not better coz its 50yrs old!
Definitely recommend:
A) taking doors off hinges so they're out of the way
B) not breathing directly into the mic ;)
Otherwise, this is a great technique - thanks for sharing!
Listening to that cameraman breathe is really annoying
Did two coats. Each coat is drying super bubbly. Looks horrible. What am I doing wrong. Do I need to thin Out the oil based polyurethane with mineral spirits? It’s Behr oil based poly
WHO is Ur Cameraman SASQUATCH.? Future reference It's Probably Better 2 RUN the 400 meter Relay AFTER Capturing thus Video. Thank U 4 these pointers. Bless
I love watching experienced people
What poly are you using in this video? Hard to believe your not getting bubbles when the poly splats down on the wood floor when you pour.
Is that why I have bubbles? I’m in the middle of a project and I did it his way, except I used a lambswool applicator each coat is coming up super bubbly! Even when dry. I’m gonna sand it tomorrow and do a third coat I will have to figure out how to not have it drying with so much bubbles it’s unacceptable it looks horrible
@@FromTheHood2TheWoods
What nap lambswool applicator did you use?
Yeah, I'd be interested to know what product you're using here. I have a project I would love to use oil-based on this way, but I have always heard you're supposed to do it in a bunch of thin coats rather than pouring it on
Correct. Too thick will take quite a bit longer to cure.
Oil is self leveling.. id say youre using entirely too much as a first coat. also use a weighted Tbar, or add a clamp on weight12' up the handle. oil should be applied as thin as possible regardless of staining. if your first coat is too heavy, it'll take 3-4 days to harden enough to buff down . Though I prefer oil in my home, it just looks the best as the years go by.
My problem is seeing what he’s applying it with. Is it a mop? What kind? I don’t think it’s a squeegee. But he was using a teapot of all things to pour it.
Is that a vinyl floor?
Carefully apply while making sure to walk over it.
Left yourself 3 inches to walk out of the room... stepping on it and shit LMAO ---- well done though, I'm a waterbased guy
Excellent! That's going to save my back this coming week as I over-seal my painted floor with book cut-out(s) glued down to the floor. My books are WWII Aviation nose-art, Aviation brand icons & my favorite artist of all times...Vincent Van Gogh ! Thanks!
There is Restore, Rejuvenate and things like that to add shine to water-based finished floors but what can I use on oil-based polyurethane floors?
the guy holding the camera needs to step outside
good job
Most helpful video yet!
But you make it look too easy
Real life not so much 😂
U like this better then the lambswool applicator?
Nice and smooth application but the breathing is freaking me out
Hi. A floor professional recently refinished our floors and used 3 coats of Duraseal oil-based poly (no stain) over a period of 3 days - giving a day of dry time between each coat. It has been 23 days since he completed the job and, while the finish is very hard and scratch-resistant, our floors still feel a bit tacky, especially if you walk on them in bare feet. We tried to slide across the floors in our socks and it's impossible to slide. We have been trying to find answers online and we're unsure if the floors are just not fully cured yet, or if there is an actual problem. The floors were done in September and the humidity was moderate. We did not run the air conditioner at all during the curing time - we kept the windows cracked and the fans going (as recommended by our contractor). When we called to ask why the floors are still sticky, he says it is because the weather is humid. It is October and we are having beautiful fall weather here in NJ. We read online that certain conditions or circumstances can cause the poly to not cure properly and that the floors could remain tacky forever. Should we be worried about this happening?
Do you have a basement?
Did your floors eventually cure and harden?
@@cejanuary9378 they had to have cured. It normally takes a month to fully cure. When you first do them they will be tacky. I’ll do them in a rental and no one is allowed back in for at least two weeks. I unless the place catches fire no one is allowed to go inside the property. After another three weeks max you can slide to hearts content.
This is the identical method used in the RUclips video, ‘ Bona - T Bar Application Method’. However, the Bona polyurethane used in that video is water based. I’m concerned that this method here would not be good for a newbie to attempt to lay down oil based poly. My concern is bubbles.
Is my concern unfounded?
I have no trouble putting oil base on with a T bar but I have been doing it for a long time. I would suggest somebody new to this that rolling would be so much better for them with water base or oil base.
Can a thin layer of oil based be laid down with the T bar method? I ask because my understanding is that success is better achieved when, atleast the first layer, is a thin layer. And it appears to me that the pull method might yield less bubbles than the rolling method. Thanks
Bubbles are less of a concern with oil… especially when using a duraseal tbar like he is using. Puddles are a bigger issue when laying down oil poly.
He’s using Verathane polyurethane
@@jedgould5531 Hi Jed, asking you because you were active here less than a week ago- how long will it take this coat to dry, that we see applied in this video? Thank youy!
You stepped on it😫
20yrs my ass quit lying to folks
Any bubbles?
This guy is a butcher .
your scaring me with all that finish on the floor. puddle central
He did pour a shitload down... managed it quite well though --- I guess the amateurs waste too much time pouring LOL
good tutorial.... I'm using it tomorrow Thanks!!!
This is the best method,but would be even better if you cut in first with a six in brush.eliminate finish on the shoe molding.
I do exactly the same way but I brush out with a 6” brush as I go..
Termite approved...best on the Tube....good technique
Like your technique good job
What's your preferred product?
Thanks for this video, did you stain this floor before hand? I used a natural stain on red oak and it seemed to darken the wood too much, I figure if I add a poly my floor would be too dark. Can oil based poly be applied to a floor without a stain?
yes
whats the product?
👍
Do you apply the second coat the same way?
No respirator?
Do you have a favorite brand of oil based poly?
Is this duraseal poly?
Great share! Thank you!
It's a real sin to film in portrait mode instead of landscape ...
What do you use to clean them?
Bona
Words of advice for all. If you want 0 headaches... use an upgraded waterbased poly ! It may be 10 dollars more a gallon but its worth it. Higher abrasion testing, doesn't turn yellow over time, doesnt smell, dries quickly, most UV proof (doesnt leave squares around a carpet). There's no comparison.
What brands are considered an upgrade?
ll SLAY ll iv Ben using Pro oil based Polly smells Horrible I wear a mask. Iv read half put down second coat after 4-6 hours but oil takes LONG time. I waited over 12 Hours and some spots not cover well rather I not use enough or you must sand on every Coat.
My contractor charges me $4k more to use water based poly, it’s not neglectable at all.
Yes there's some advantages of using waterbase. However the durability does not come close to oil poly.
@@danielcilella5887 Bad waterbased products are the worst, oilbased are middle of the pack, and the absolute best are expensive waterbased products that come with a catalyst. Generally $140 a gallon or more.
Warren, What cover are you using with this OMU?
Oil poly is crap and takes to long to dry. Go with water base
I agree with you, but my wife likes the amber tone the oil based polyurethane could create over time. I failed to convince her to use water based poly.