Oil vs Solid Coatings
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- We take a look at the difference between applying an oil based coating or a solid coating such as paints, stains and urethanes to your timber.
The results are remarkable, proving that oil based coatings are the only way to truly protect your timber long term.
My father was a carpenter, builder and cabinet maker. One of his many wisdoms passed down to me was NEVER use a water based deck stain on outside timber, it will always curl and peel away as per your video. He advised always use an OIL based deck stain on horizontal surfaces, the oil will penetrate the timber deck and last twice as long as water based 'stains'. After 2 - 3 years of oil based stain, if recoating is necessary, no sanding just a quick spray with a pressure washer , let dry and recoat. Tip when recoating, angle your brush slightly each way between decking boards so the edges receive the necessary cover. Late post I know but hope it helps someone. P.S. I have 22 year old Merbau timber decking on an outside patio, have just finished its fourth coat 11/20 in that time. It has come up as good as when it was laid. John
yep, oil will replace the water and wont evaporate. shaded timber will last a long time, but anything that gets sun will get hotter than the ambient temperature and lose even more moisture
Got any experience with pressure treated pine, is it the same basic treatment you described?
@@artmetcommerce4749 Yes,be sure to give pressure treated time to air dry(water doesn’t bead) before applying oil based.
loose 5 mm due to sanding ? dial it up :) i restore decks for a living - no chance in hell we are removing 5 mm even using 36 grit belts to start with.... your product has a time and a place but quiet tricky to navigate the weather in Melbourne with it. Water based sealers allow us to do the dance twice a year and look great.
A well informed and explained video on the difference of oil and stain thank you from the 🇬🇧
Incorrect. Using a fine grit sand paper will create a mill glaze effect (google it) and reduce the wood pore size. This will prevent the stain (latex or oil) from properly absorbing into the wood and will result in premature stain failure. Never pressure wash and avoid sanding deck boards if at all possible. If necessary, lightly sand using a 60 grit (or 80 max) sand paper to create a rougher wood finish. Allow the deck boards to weather a few months after sanding so the wood pores open up again. Then apply a wood cleaner and brightener. These chemicals will help preserve the wood pores and are the correct method for preparing the deck boards for staining. Go with an oil based stain (avoid latex on horizontal surfaces) but be prepared to chemically clean, possibly brighten and apply a fresh coat of oil stain annually if you wish to maintain a nice looking deck.
This is helpful info - thank you. Can you explain why pressure washing is a bad idea please?
@@calluma8472 its ok but never should be blasting decks as it rips open the timber providing places for mold and mildew to grow. We usually advise clients to only use a 25 degree fan setting, only use a 2000 PSI machine or less and keep the tip 1 foot away. The chemicals and or sanding should be doing the bulk of the recovery. There is no right time to blast a deck.
Oil/water based does not matter, what's left behind is a non-breathable petroleum based plastic.
That’s what my deck looks like. I’m scraping and sanding now.
Don't use acrylic deck stains. The first time you put it down, you committed yourself to drudgery. And it will peel every year as the wood expands and contracts and it doesn't have the elasticity of oil. It does not penetrate the wood. Steer clear of 100 % acrylic. Not good to get involved with.
nah, my latex stain last 5 years. 2 coats buddy. latex stretches
@@dattape2828 latex stretches what comical is that! U dont know much! Ur lovely latex stain it is already cracked n peeled i bet , it wont never go away by fading , it goes away chipping n peeling ! There is not another way in the world
I've never tried oil, but I am hating the paint stripping I'm doing right now on our severely peeling deck we've painted 10 years ago. Once it's off, I'm doing oil now, to try it out. I don't want to have to peel or sand again.
cost comparison for switching to oil. if you're oiling every single year.. you can do the same with a coating.. just scrape any loose bits , wash and paint on.. it's a one day job
correct...never use water based on decks outdoors
I'm convinced that NO stain products work on deck surfaces
Owen Landscape Architect - Garden & Landscape Design Solutions wich productos do you recommend?
the stain "that was" sold in hardware stores which required turpentine for clean up were very user friendly and would absorb into the wood. Yes they required maintenance over time but they didn't peel like the water-based acrylic latex products they offer today that just cover the surface and then peel after a short time (if exposed to sun, rain, and snow)
@@onenikkione due to voc compliance here in America those stains are no longer available. It's mostly water-based so you'll have to recoat every couple of Years
Thank you for the video, which one would you recommend to be used as a coat for the deck timber floor outside - water-based or oil-based varnish? My concern is the water influence and durability.
Use a pressure washer to remove the peeling paint.
....to remove 75% of the peeling paint........
pressure washer will remove any lose paint. any paint still there is still good. done.
@@dattape2828 -Pressure washers also splinter the wood which then leads to moisture penetration and wood rot
Dilute the 1st coat of oil based stain with lacquer thinners then apply the remaining coats.
I this a U.S.A. available product--from where? Thanks...
Soooo do you have to stain all sides of the boards to keep them from rotting on the under side?
no.
It's recommended especially for the parts laying on the joists.
40 hours to sand deck no way
Welcome to the land of 'Ripp-Offs' -Australia!
@@R4J4N have you ever had to sand a deck that big that's coated with a bunnings special water-based crap?
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2800 dollars for 40 hours work? I'm definitely in the wrong job 🤠
@@leewhitehead6460 minus insurance, advertising, tool replacement, bad weather, bad payers, admin costs, accounting costs, chiro, car maintenance, cost of quoting.... you will be surprised at the true NET price
Please don't hit two hammer heads together. That's a really bad idea.
Outdoor rug
Exaggeration at the end, but thanks for the info
i call bullshit buddy,, i sanded a whole deck in 3 hours , 30'x 20' cots me 300 with rental and sand paper form home depot
Thanks! this really helped!
ContinuousCollat van
fair fuggin dinkum mayyyte
cool
WTF... where can I hire you? That’s cheap!!! Lol...
'Decking' must be the most ridiculous cover up yet devised by man.
...ahh crap! ..I forgot my lunch .
I can tell you right now that kennards machine is a POS too light not powerful enough and wxpensive belts ... as a floorsander of 25yrs i advise people to not attempt anything with those machines ... it will cost you dearly
Danish oil is the way to go, only use that product.
Used Motor oil is the way to go its free and you throw it away anyway
70 an hour….lmfao gtfo here
Blah blah blah
Can I get an American video to take the advice seriously
Sikkens is better