You'll see my comments throughout the comment section, but because I am so impressed with the information, I've just subscribed! Thank you for the work you put into making & posting this. Please keep them coming!
I've used the DICOR BUTYL Self Leveling and it's done exactly what it was made to do and so easy to use. Put it on and let it do it's thing. Maybe sort of spendy but considering what it does and the ease of use, I wouldn't consider anything else.
Thanks for the video. Rebuilding a cabover with alum windows and doors salvaged from old camper. Filon siding and roof. Mastic tape or butyl tape is best for sealing windows to filon. Thanks.
Both putty (mastic) and butyl will work, but we’ve found that the butyl gets a million times stickier after the window has been installed for a while, to the point that the glass can break trying to get the window out. The Alpha Putty is our go to now!
I heard that butyl shouldn't be left exposed to sun. With Maxxair Fan install, is that part of why the sealant goes over that? So many of the videos used butyl as a matter of fact but recently I've heard some pushback. Some videos also showed being able to "rub" the tape off (with elbow grease) of the old fan in order to apply the new. Now I'm wondering if the old tape was putty tape instead?
Very informative video, thank you! One question, you said to use Putty Tape for windows on an aluminum trailer, but why would you recommend that over the Butyl Tube or SikaFlex Tube?
Thanks for watching! We recommend the putty for that application as it is quite a bit less sticky than the butyl tape and butyl tubes. If you ever need to remove/reseal the window, there’s a good chance that the glass will break trying to pry it out if you use butyl. We still recommend sealing the outside with a bead of Sikaflex/Proflex after using putty or butyl!
Great video! So glad I found someone local!! I’m looking to do some maintenance on our trailer (it’s a 2013). I was going to get up in the roof, wash everything off and then use a leak repair tape on all the joints of A/C, sky light etc just to reinforce those seals. Nothing is leaking on the roof itself yet so I’m just hoping to do this and get ahead of any trouble. Is there any reason why I wouldn’t want to do that? Or is there something else I should do? Where I do have an issue is somewhere on the slide. Driving in the rain caused some water to end up inside the trailer. I’ve looked all around the slide (except the roof so far cause we’re still on holiday) and nothing looks out of place. The black seals seem to be fine so I’m ‘hoping’ the issue is a seal on top of the slide. Again, any advice would be most appreciated. Thanks!!
The A/C is a bit unique in that it uses a foam seal applied between the roof and the upper A/C unit. We don't usually recommend adding anything to this, but there are replacement foam seals available if you're looking to do some preventative maintenance!
Hi there! I just removed a vent on my Bounder with a TPO, and replaced with a Maxxfan deluxe. I used butyl tape but before putting the vent with the butyl tape down I put a dab of lap sealant on each of the old holes in the roof and let the vent with butyl tape push out anything it wanted to.. that should be fine right?
All the putty tape put on my 2006 Arctic Fox has dried out and shrunk. Every joint with this stuff is loose leaking or fallen out. Is the butyl is longer lasting? All the Dicor sealant dries out and shrinks after 2 yrs in Calif. sun and has to be replaced. Any suggestions for longer lasting sealants. The inside of the trailer looks like the day I bought it, I see no reason to buy a new trailer.
Thanks for watching! That is an issue we face even in Canada, most of the sealants do a good job but the sun does a real number on them and they wear out fairly quickly. We’re going to be doing some long term tests of a number of different sealants to see how they perform over time, stay tuned for an answer to this question!
I have laid down a NEW EDPM unsealed rubber roof I need to install the roof vents with butyl tape and dicor sealant. However I’m plan to use Flexseal liquid on the whole roof. Which order? suggestions? can you guide me? Thanks .😢
We haven't ever used flexseal for that purpose so I'm not able to give much guidance on that unfortunately. We typically lean on the Dicor roof coat products as they are specifically designed to bond well to the rubber material!
You can absolutely use butyl on older models! We find putty lasts quite a bit longer, but butyl is absolutely compatible and will still give a good seal.
Thanks for watching! In our shop we would use Sikaflex 221 for that job, but Proflex and Dicor Cap Sealant are also good choices! Edit: I forgot to mention that underneath the flange where the window is sealed to the wall, you will want to use a putty tape.
The Eternabond is getting pretty pricey, but it is a great product and definitely less expensive than a roof leak! That said, we’re demoing some AP Products seal tape that claims the same compatibility but for 20-30% less cost, stay tuned for a video on that!
I understand that the Eternabond in expensive, but I was watching a review where an R.V. owner sealed every seam on his roof, showed us how & gave us 1 year, 2 year & 3 year updates. It's still holding up fantabulously! And personally, I agree with Josh, it is definitely less expansive than a roof leak!
@@edmontonrv Aaaah, thank you. I was just putting a roll of butyl tape in to my cart, but they're sold out. I have a 1984 aluminum roof & siding class c & just reading that the putty tape is easier to remove has led me to purchase a roll of the putty tape instead of the butyl to keep on hand in my 'repair' stash. Thanks for the informative answer Josh.
There isn’t much of a difference between the two in terms of the quality of the seal. The big problem with butyl and windows is that it tends to get stickier the longer it stays on, so if you ever need to remove the window there’s a good chance the glass will shatter!
@@edmontonrv Oh NO! Don't tell me that! I think my butyl has been on my R.V. for 39 years! (& the entire R.V. is in immaculate shape! It has been extremely well maintained) I was going to scrape away as much as I could of the old & possibly remove 2 or 3 windows just to check on any leakage (I have my suspicions) & reseal with Pro-Flex (I already have that purchased). My concern is with one of the side windows on the upper sleep cab, the kitchen (which is the biggest) & possibly the long front one on the upper sleep cab. Maybe I won't remove windows & check for any water damage/leakage until I plan to re-paint the entire interior & build myself a crafting work-bench/desk out of the back bed. Question though: I am planning to coat every single window with 8 mil security film. Do 'you' think that might help strengthen the window glass when trying to remove those 3 windows?
You'll see my comments throughout the comment section, but because I am so impressed with the information, I've just subscribed! Thank you for the work you put into making & posting this. Please keep them coming!
Thanks so much for watching! We will absolutely have more videos coming soon
@@edmontonrv You're welcome, and that is great to hear!
This was fantastic overview of a complicated topic. Thanks so much!
just found your channel. I do hope that you plan to make more videos! This one was absolutely awesome! Thank you for being so informative!
Solid advice, whish I had seen this before. Thanks!
I've used the DICOR BUTYL Self Leveling and it's done exactly what it was made to do and so easy to use. Put it on and let it do it's thing. Maybe sort of spendy but considering what it does and the ease of use, I wouldn't consider anything else.
For those that may not know Self leveling is only good for roof, you definitely do not want self leveling on a side like a window or door
Very informative. Thank you.
Thanks for the video. Rebuilding a cabover with alum windows and doors salvaged from old camper. Filon siding and roof. Mastic tape or butyl tape is best for sealing windows to filon. Thanks.
Both putty (mastic) and butyl will work, but we’ve found that the butyl gets a million times stickier after the window has been installed for a while, to the point that the glass can break trying to get the window out. The Alpha Putty is our go to now!
I heard that butyl shouldn't be left exposed to sun. With Maxxair Fan install, is that part of why the sealant goes over that? So many of the videos used butyl as a matter of fact but recently I've heard some pushback. Some videos also showed being able to "rub" the tape off (with elbow grease) of the old fan in order to apply the new. Now I'm wondering if the old tape was putty tape instead?
Great video thanks!
Great review!
Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
Very informative video, thank you!
One question, you said to use Putty Tape for windows on an aluminum trailer, but why would you recommend that over the Butyl Tube or SikaFlex Tube?
Thanks for watching! We recommend the putty for that application as it is quite a bit less sticky than the butyl tape and butyl tubes. If you ever need to remove/reseal the window, there’s a good chance that the glass will break trying to pry it out if you use butyl. We still recommend sealing the outside with a bead of Sikaflex/Proflex after using putty or butyl!
Great video! So glad I found someone local!! I’m looking to do some maintenance on our trailer (it’s a 2013). I was going to get up in the roof, wash everything off and then use a leak repair tape on all the joints of A/C, sky light etc just to reinforce those seals. Nothing is leaking on the roof itself yet so I’m just hoping to do this and get ahead of any trouble. Is there any reason why I wouldn’t want to do that? Or is there something else I should do? Where I do have an issue is somewhere on the slide. Driving in the rain caused some water to end up inside the trailer. I’ve looked all around the slide (except the roof so far cause we’re still on holiday) and nothing looks out of place. The black seals seem to be fine so I’m ‘hoping’ the issue is a seal on top of the slide. Again, any advice would be most appreciated. Thanks!!
The A/C is a bit unique in that it uses a foam seal applied between the roof and the upper A/C unit. We don't usually recommend adding anything to this, but there are replacement foam seals available if you're looking to do some preventative maintenance!
Hi there! I just removed a vent on my Bounder with a TPO, and replaced with a Maxxfan deluxe. I used butyl tape but before putting the vent with the butyl tape down I put a dab of lap sealant on each of the old holes in the roof and let the vent with butyl tape push out anything it wanted to.. that should be fine right?
All the putty tape put on my 2006 Arctic Fox has dried out and shrunk. Every joint with this stuff is loose leaking or fallen out. Is the butyl is longer lasting? All the Dicor sealant dries out and shrinks after 2 yrs in Calif. sun and has to be replaced. Any suggestions for longer lasting sealants. The inside of the trailer looks like the day I bought it, I see no reason to buy a new trailer.
Thanks for watching! That is an issue we face even in Canada, most of the sealants do a good job but the sun does a real number on them and they wear out fairly quickly. We’re going to be doing some long term tests of a number of different sealants to see how they perform over time, stay tuned for an answer to this question!
I have a 1969 aluminum camper and need to replace the J rail I think they call it- side molding. I wasn’t sure if you mentioned which tape for that ?
We use putty tape for this application!
I am rebuilding a tent trailer and have seams in the siding. Should I use buytle tape or putty or something else to seal them?
We typically use putty for this, but butyl would work as well!
I have laid down a NEW EDPM unsealed rubber roof I need to install the roof vents with butyl tape and dicor sealant. However I’m plan to use Flexseal liquid on the whole roof. Which order? suggestions? can you guide me? Thanks .😢
We haven't ever used flexseal for that purpose so I'm not able to give much guidance on that unfortunately. We typically lean on the Dicor roof coat products as they are specifically designed to bond well to the rubber material!
So, no putty on newer models. Can you use butyl on older models? ie 1970's. Thanks
You can absolutely use butyl on older models! We find putty lasts quite a bit longer, but butyl is absolutely compatible and will still give a good seal.
What should i use to re seal my horse trailer window's??
Thanks for watching! In our shop we would use Sikaflex 221 for that job, but Proflex and Dicor Cap Sealant are also good choices!
Edit: I forgot to mention that underneath the flange where the window is sealed to the wall, you will want to use a putty tape.
@@edmontonrv
My horse trailer is painted aluminum.
That is where the Sika products work best!
@@edmontonrv
Does the Rv places sell the Sikaflex 221??
Most of them do carry the 221! In our store we have 3 different stocking colours and can order in the rest of the colours.
the price for enternabond though is insane
The Eternabond is getting pretty pricey, but it is a great product and definitely less expensive than a roof leak! That said, we’re demoing some AP Products seal tape that claims the same compatibility but for 20-30% less cost, stay tuned for a video on that!
I understand that the Eternabond in expensive, but I was watching a review where an R.V. owner sealed every seam on his roof, showed us how & gave us 1 year, 2 year & 3 year updates. It's still holding up fantabulously! And personally, I agree with Josh, it is definitely less expansive than a roof leak!
We had the eternabond on for 5 years. Held up great. Was hard to remove!!
@@hillarysettle5119 Very difficult to remove! I suppose it's a good problem haha.
where can I buy 1.5 width putty tape by the case
You might be able to ask an RV dealer or parts store near you to order you a case!
Why not use butyl tape on windows?
Butyl tape will seal just as good as putty, but it’s 5000% stickier which makes it miserable to remove the window down the road if need be!
@@edmontonrv Aaaah, thank you. I was just putting a roll of butyl tape in to my cart, but they're sold out. I have a 1984 aluminum roof & siding class c & just reading that the putty tape is easier to remove has led me to purchase a roll of the putty tape instead of the butyl to keep on hand in my 'repair' stash. Thanks for the informative answer Josh.
@@edmontonrvwouldn't butyl last longer and seal better than putty?
There isn’t much of a difference between the two in terms of the quality of the seal. The big problem with butyl and windows is that it tends to get stickier the longer it stays on, so if you ever need to remove the window there’s a good chance the glass will shatter!
@@edmontonrv Oh NO! Don't tell me that! I think my butyl has been on my R.V. for 39 years! (& the entire R.V. is in immaculate shape! It has been extremely well maintained) I was going to scrape away as much as I could of the old & possibly remove 2 or 3 windows just to check on any leakage (I have my suspicions) & reseal with Pro-Flex (I already have that purchased). My concern is with one of the side windows on the upper sleep cab, the kitchen (which is the biggest) & possibly the long front one on the upper sleep cab. Maybe I won't remove windows & check for any water damage/leakage until I plan to re-paint the entire interior & build myself a crafting work-bench/desk out of the back bed.
Question though: I am planning to coat every single window with 8 mil security film. Do 'you' think that might help strengthen the window glass when trying to remove those 3 windows?