Bedding Deck Hardware Using Through Bolts & Butyl Tape
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- Опубликовано: 29 ноя 2011
- www.sailrite.com/Trimmable-But... Butyl Tape is an off-white, non-hardening elastic butyl based material which is great for bedding applications on boats. Use this #180 Trimmable Butyl Tape to seal out water when drilling screw holes for bimini and dodger frame fittings, snaps, awning track installation, stanchions and much more.
Butyl tape provides excellent sealing adhesion to any type of metal, wood, concrete, glass, plastics, fiberglass and porous surfaces. Can be used under moldings; around windows, doors and vents, butyl can be trimmed easily with any stiff, pointed non-scratching object.
#180 butyl tape increases in adhesion with age after it is applied. It can be pressed and formed to obtain a water and air tight seal. Recommended temperatures for application are between -30F and 200F (for best results apply at room temperature on dry materials). 
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This video really needs an advisory about drilling through cored decks. Drilling holes through the deck without proper sealing of the core is why so many old boats have soft spots.
Agreed. Drill oversized holes, then fill with epoxy. Then drill regular sized holes through the epoxy plug. This will encapsulate and protect the core.
Not only that but this is a boat that apparently has a plywood 'core' which is unlaminated underside.... The wood was already showing signs of water damage & that whole install is a disaster waiting to happen (crooked washer & all). Particularly since stanchions are a critical safety feature on a sailboat and experience a huge amount of force when people fall on them - exactly the time you don't want them to fail. Grinding the non-slip down to a smooth surface and using 5200 would have made for a significantly better install. At the very least, follow @peter's suggestion to use oversize holes - I won't even comment on the 'quality' of the epoxy filling the old holes.....
He mentioned that he drilled and filled the entire cavity with epoxy resin which is the right way to do it...
@hadlock how do you know when buying an older boat?
@@peterkacandes5905 great suggestion. Thank you.
Sailrite is good stuff.
I've used it for about four years for bedding hardware and many other things on my boat, but started last summer to used it along with Zikaflex 11fc to get a perfect result. I now have a super dry boat.
Which brand of Butyl tape did you use?
Get Beddit tape from Sailboat Owners. Superior to all others@@MrMedicAdnan
Makes me wanna go redo my stanchions right now!
TheBigjer40 I know right 😂 next project for sure
Thank you for the informative video.
What is the difference between Sailrite Butyl tape and the other brands out there.
All points of this video ARE accurate but a very important point should be added. Being rubber based, as opposed to the "liquid" consistency of a caulk, BT has an extreme viscosity. This means that a proper bedding isn't achieved without returning to add slightly more torque to the bedded bolts. The process to fully bed BT MAY take 2-3 days, with 12-24 hours between tightenings. Full bedding is achieved when squeeze out no longer occurs. This extra labor is why few production boats use it.
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Is it really this easy to form a water tight seal when installing hardware on the deck? Nothing but the tape when installed as indicated in this video is needed? Any extra considerations if the deck is cored?
Yes, the Butyl tape is that easy. It stays flexible and tacky keeping water out. The deck for this Islander 37 was also cored and we did nothing else but use the Butyl tape: www.sailrite.com/Trimmable-Butyl-Tape-3-4-Bedding-Deck-Hardware-Sealant
John Halbert , I would over size drill the existing holes. Fill with thickened epoxy and redrill with the proper bolt/screw size so that there will be no exposed core.
I love this kind of tape, but would it have been better to put a line (of tape) around the outside edge of the base plate to seal the entire base? That would be in addition to the screws.
Hi, Leaving the base open allows the water that could possibly enter the stanchion base through the pipe's hollow center to run out freely. If the base were sealed the water would collect and fill the stanchion base and then the pipe. All we want to do is seal out the holes for the screws.
Thanks, that makes sense.
Can I purchase this tape from you, I am based in the UK, where only cheap look-a like tape is available. Mariners in the UK are screaming out for the stuff, but sadly cant get it?
We do ship worldwide. You can easily get rates on our website for shipping this product. Just place it in the shopping cart and enter your country and postal code. You will see multiple shipping options.
the cost of shipping was just too much for me to convert to the sail rite brand
You can buy very similar tape off Amazon.uk.
Need longer machine screws.
How to do it with no access to the underside?
You can't, if you can not gain access to the underside, sorry.
Time signature 5:16 + Why no Gell coat to seal the holes first? Can cause soft spots, which is like cancer to a boat!
The entire bedding process is doomed in this example. The holes must be drilled oversized and then “potted,” with thickened epoxy using micro balloons. After curing, the holes are then re-drilled to smaller size and large fender washers or better, a matching stainless backing plate used. Failure to pot the holes inevitably results in a wet deck. When it freezes, the ice blows the composite apart. If end grain balsa it turns into oatmeal, Airex core fairs a bit better, but water leaks gradually ruins the deck. Butyl cannot be used below the waterline.
Rather than drillin oversize... drill to correct size then use a shortened hex key (5mm) in a drill to gouge out the core underneath the hole in the laminate. Then pot with thin epoxy first to soak the wood, drain any left over then fill with thickened epoxy. Drill the hole again. This keeps laminate where oversize drilling would have removed it.
Nautical PlayDoh
its pronounced chamfering not kamfering plus what a lousy job with filling old holes with epoxy
.....The crazy man with the saw..?????
First drills the base,use a router and open the diameter , not comparing the symmetrical base. Therefore the fittings will in a zigzag pattern.
They screw the fitting with no doubleplate..,
Pitty for the all of us ,who support these videos
This is all wrong. Stick with making sewing videos.
piss poor craftsmanship.. bedding means you put a layer under the entire object.. so water, dirt and crud don't collect underneath it. In wooden boats this is crucial..and in frg boats.. it means there isn't a wad of crud expanding under your fitting. If you live where it freezes.. this is extremely important.. because the power of expanding ice is extreme. If it is enough to crack rocks.. it isn't improving your boat ! Who wants crud oozing out from under deck fittings.. or oozing down the treads of bolts. Do it right !
This is the correct method (ignoring the core sealing issue). You never seal a fitting like this completely to the deck. You only seal the fasteners and give the water a path to escape from under the fittings. I've had boats in sever freeze that conditions for 40+ years and never had a problem when they're installed with tape alone. Look at how everyone else of note is doing it on RUclips, they're all only using butyl tape.
Good morning. I wish I could hit thumbs up twice. Well said.