We'll be covering this in more depth in a future video! There was an amazing brush/roll on product in a cab from Proflex as well but it was recently discontinued. We're planning a test of all the main products out there to demonstrate the reliability of each of them, stay tuned!
Basically, it's either polyurethane or acrylic. After a quick study, seems like the only real advantage of acrylic is paintability. Things to consider are: 1) UV resistance 2) Flexibility 3) Water resistance 4) Heat/cold resistance 5) Bond strength 6) Curing time 7) Paintability. Pretty much in the order of importance when used outside RV's.
Dicor also works on aluminum roofs and is my prefered method because it is self healing and can be built up to a thicker layer. This is from Dicor's home page; Dicor’s HAPS Free Self-Leveling Lap Sealant creates a secure, secondary seal along the roof’s edges, air vents, vent pipes and screw heads. Compatible with EPDM, TPO and PVC membranes, it adheres firmly to aluminum, mortar, wood, vinyl, galvanized metal, fiberglass and concrete. Ideally suited for aftermarket use, the lap sealant is one of the highest volume products sold in RV stores today.
I would like to know which one would be suitable for this project. RV gutters, gazebo gutters, RV roof drip edge, white gutter extenders that guide rainwater.
I just did some updates to my lap sealant and cleaned it really good and took my time and covered the lap sealant after letting it cure for months, with eternabond. Lap sealant is good to get it out of factory but it's a joke to have to keep applying it. So far after 1 year, no issues and it's easy to clean and inspect.
I'm going to be resealing the roof on my enclosed trailer with galvanized roof panels mating to fiberglass and aluminum. Definitely going for function over form on the roof and want it to be cost effective. Can I go with fiberglass reinforcement cloth and an acrylic elastomeric coating over it?
I have used sikaflex 291 at the shipyard I work at. Its also great stuff and can even be used below the waterline. Great for fiberglass gelcoat. Comes in white and black is sandable and paintable. Not sure how it lines up against the 715 or the 221 but i figured i would throw that one out as well.
Everything worked well with the old camper from 1971 I just got a 2006 r R vision, with I guess fiberglass/laminate exterior walls with extremely extremely bad caulking I'm talking inches of horrible all over the place and smears! The stuff is hard as a rock and I'm not sure how I'm going to do this. I heard mineral spirits. Dawn and then denatured alcohol, I do have a question. What about tremco , aka trempro ? What in your opinion is the best for the laminate/ fiberglass exterior walls around windows and everything Thoughts What if you have a 1971 camper With some sort of /coating , membrane over aluminum
With that style of roof/coating, you can use the Sikaflex and Proflex products. There is also a brush-able product made Hengs but we've had much better success in our shop using the Proflex and Sikaflex in the tubes. Let us know if you have any other questions!
Great video thank you! Important question: How is the removability / replaceability of the sikaflex 221, Once it does age, or if I've used it to install a skylight that needs replacing, etc? I've heard it's difficult...
Thanks for watching! All polyurethane sealants are a bit of a pain to remove, but we find that Sikaflex is generally easier to get off after a length of time than Proflex and a lot of other polyurethane based sealants!
*** W*O*W*** Finally somebody who acknowledges fiberglass roofs ! All I ever get on searching, is Dicor Dicor Dicor. So I bought both . But it’s like chewed bubble gum ! Thank YOU for doing THIS video. What do I use to refresh the roof trim that hold the side to the roof ?
Sikaflex 715 is very new to the industry and our techs don't have a great deal of experience with it quite yet, but it is specifically designed and safe to use on EPDM and TPO roofs. For aluminum roofs, I’d recommend the 221.
Excellent informative video! What silicone flexible sealant product do you recommend for caulking the sides of the RV? I take it the old putty caulking must be removed first? Thanks :)
Hallo, thanks for trying to help us. I tried the dicor, and it's lousy. It's too thick and forms a skin much too fast. It also caused my rubber roof to bubble up. Big blisters formed. The one I find so far that's much better is the Sikaflex 715. It gives plenty of time before a skin forms and is less thick & pasty and more like honey. It self levels great. I wish Amazon sold it for less cuz it's too expensive. Is there any other brand anyone knows of that's like the Sikaflex 715 but much less expensive and available on Amazon? Thank you so much 💓
I need to reseal the seam between the fiberglass hightop amd my metal van body. Would you recommend the Sikaflex 227 instead of the 221? I read that it has more flexibility.
Thank you for another great video!! Question: What do you use for the sides, vertical, seams,, we have a Itasca Ram VIVA,,,, where the cab seams up against the rv,, any thoughts much appreciated!!
Thanks for watching! For this I would lean towards either Sikaflex 221 or Proflex. Great adhesion and longevity, and it isn’t self leveling so it won’t drip down the side.
That product is very new to the industry and our techs don't have a great deal of experience with it quite yet, but it is specifically designed and safe to use on EPDM and TPO roofs. Avoid using any other products not specifically for a rubber roof though (such as Sikaflex 221), as they can cause issues!
@@edmontonrv I have a small experiment going on right with this product. I’ve replaced some aging self leveling sealant around my ladder to roof attachment with the 715. I like it’s initial workability and texture when cured. It appears to be holding well to the roofing material. so far the only downside I’ve noticed is I had vultures on my roof early in the morning one day and they picked at the new sealant and left the old alone!
You can go over old sealant so long as it’s not completely deteriorated and falling off. Make sure to completely encapsulate the old sealant, avoid doing small dabs or partial touch ups.
What would you recommend for those areas underneath the RV where the water lines come out. (I have some small gaps between the pipes and the RV itself.)
I need to reseal the D seals on my slide. I have cleaned any signs of old sealant which seams to be silicon. It's a 2022 KZ travel trailer and didn't seem to last very long! What can you recommend for this application
Typically we use Sikaflex 221 for this task! We find it bonds the best to the materials that the slide wiper and D seals are made from. Silicone works temporarily, but doesn't bond as well and gets brittle/falls off sooner.
@@edmontonrv thanks I’ll try tat next time. I used some proflex and it wanted to pill up while trying too tool, we used mineral spirits like they suggested, but still didn’t want to tool very smooth
Behind the rain gutter you should use putty tape (I'll be covering this in a video very soon) and then to seal the edges of the gutter I'd use Sikaflex or Proflex!
Although these products work at first all that stuff is limited in useful lifespan and becomes so crusty and leaky after a few years in hot sun. Heres the secret-->Use 4200/5200 to seal your roof penetrations, and youll never have to do it again. I did and my roof is gojng on 8 years and still is sealed lkke the day I applied it.
3M does make some really good goop! The only thing to keep in mind when using these products, especially the 5200, is that most are designed to be a permanent seal. So if a tree falls on your roof vent/skylight and you have to replace it, you won’t be getting that vent flange off without seriously damaging the roofing all around it. But otherwise it is definitely a solid product being that it’s designed for marine applications and has been around for a long time!
@@edmontonrv Hahah!! Well youre 100% right about that, I only glued down a skylight with it once and a few years later a tree broke it and I had to use a fairly aggressive flapper wheel to clean it up lol As a result I have been using it since for permanently sealing front and rear caps as well as the perimeters of skylights and penetrations, basically any fiberglass, glass, plexiglass, or aluminum. Its insane how long it lasts...14 years on my motorhome and going on 8 years on my Travel Trailer. I scraped and cleaned up the factory cap sealer on the TT then resealed and reglued with 5200 and its like new to this day. On the motorhome I went over the factory sealer because it seemed to be a very stout material. and was only a year old. I usually use Solar Seal to glue anything down these days, its the best product Ive found to work on the Sunrooms I build as well. Cheers!!
We've found the best product for that is Sikaflex 221. It adheres better and for longer than other products, and it's also a lot easier to smooth out after applying and make look nice!
We have more content coming very soon! Been a very busy summer season for us but we've got some videos lined up to come out next week. Appreciate you checking us out!
Holy crap!! An actual factual video straight to the point and understandable. Amazing!! Thank you very much.
Thank you so much for the video. This is the best explanation on the different sealants I have found on RUclips. Appreciate ya!
Thanks for watching! We have more content like this coming down the pipe soon!
Dicor also makes a roll on rubberized coating you can use on aluminum roofs. Used it on my 72 Dodge motorhome 3 years ago. Still looks good.
We'll be covering this in more depth in a future video! There was an amazing brush/roll on product in a cab from Proflex as well but it was recently discontinued. We're planning a test of all the main products out there to demonstrate the reliability of each of them, stay tuned!
I am revealing my windows. What is your thoughts??
Basically, it's either polyurethane or acrylic. After a quick study, seems like the only real advantage of acrylic is paintability. Things to consider are: 1) UV resistance 2) Flexibility 3) Water resistance 4) Heat/cold resistance 5) Bond strength 6) Curing time 7) Paintability. Pretty much in the order of importance when used outside RV's.
Also very important is durability or how long lasting and resistant to deterioration the caulk is.
This video is very informative and to the point. The best one I've seen on caulking.
Dicor also works on aluminum roofs and is my prefered method because it is self healing and can be built up to a thicker layer.
This is from Dicor's home page;
Dicor’s HAPS Free Self-Leveling Lap Sealant creates a secure, secondary seal along the roof’s edges, air vents, vent pipes and screw heads. Compatible with EPDM, TPO and PVC membranes, it adheres firmly to aluminum, mortar, wood, vinyl, galvanized metal, fiberglass and concrete. Ideally suited for aftermarket use, the lap sealant is one of the highest volume products sold in RV stores today.
Dicor is definitely one of our most popular products!
Awesome, this is just the information I was looking for! Thanks for sharing!
I would like to know which one would be suitable for this project. RV gutters, gazebo gutters, RV roof drip edge, white gutter extenders that guide rainwater.
Thank you for giving a clear and direct answer!
Happy to help! Stay tuned for more videos like this!
Great information thank you! Looking at sealing seams on the roof of my aluminum horse trailer.
I just did some updates to my lap sealant and cleaned it really good and took my time and covered the lap sealant after letting it cure for months, with eternabond. Lap sealant is good to get it out of factory but it's a joke to have to keep applying it. So far after 1 year, no issues and it's easy to clean and inspect.
Eternabond is an amazing product! Sticks to pretty much anything and in our testing is the longest lasting! Good choice.
I'm going to be resealing the roof on my enclosed trailer with galvanized roof panels mating to fiberglass and aluminum. Definitely going for function over form on the roof and want it to be cost effective. Can I go with fiberglass reinforcement cloth and an acrylic elastomeric coating over it?
I have used sikaflex 291 at the shipyard I work at. Its also great stuff and can even be used below the waterline. Great for fiberglass gelcoat. Comes in white and black is sandable and paintable. Not sure how it lines up against the 715 or the 221 but i figured i would throw that one out as well.
The 291 is also a very good sealant! We've used that quite a bit as well for anything that comes in contact with quite a bit of water.
Everything worked well with the old camper from 1971 I just got a 2006 r
R vision, with I guess fiberglass/laminate exterior walls with extremely extremely bad caulking I'm talking inches of horrible all over the place and smears!
The stuff is hard as a rock and I'm not sure how I'm going to do this. I heard mineral spirits. Dawn and then denatured alcohol,
I do have a question. What about tremco , aka trempro ?
What in your opinion is the best for the laminate/ fiberglass exterior walls around windows and everything
Thoughts
What if you have a 1971 camper
With some sort of /coating , membrane over aluminum
With that style of roof/coating, you can use the Sikaflex and Proflex products. There is also a brush-able product made Hengs but we've had much better success in our shop using the Proflex and Sikaflex in the tubes. Let us know if you have any other questions!
Great video thank you! Important question: How is the removability / replaceability of the sikaflex 221, Once it does age, or if I've used it to install a skylight that needs replacing, etc? I've heard it's difficult...
Thanks for watching! All polyurethane sealants are a bit of a pain to remove, but we find that Sikaflex is generally easier to get off after a length of time than Proflex and a lot of other polyurethane based sealants!
*** W*O*W*** Finally somebody who acknowledges fiberglass roofs ! All I ever get on searching, is Dicor Dicor Dicor. So I bought both . But it’s like chewed bubble gum ! Thank YOU for doing THIS video. What do I use to refresh the roof trim that hold the side to the roof ?
Happy to help! For the roof trim on fiberglass/metal units, our go to combo is Alpha putty tape and Sikaflex 221 sealant to run a bead around.
Aluminum roof trailer- Sikaflex 715 or 221?
Stripping all the old lapseal and starting fresh.
Thanks for sharing!
Sikaflex 715 is very new to the industry and our techs don't have a great deal of experience with it quite yet, but it is specifically designed and safe to use on EPDM and TPO roofs. For aluminum roofs, I’d recommend the 221.
Can sikaflex 1A be used for gutters? Does it stick to itself if another coating is applied?
Excellent informative video! What silicone flexible sealant product do you recommend for caulking the sides of the RV? I take it the old putty caulking must be removed first? Thanks :)
It is best to remove the old putty and sealants first! We use Sikaflex 221 or Proflex in our shop for this job.
Thanks for the information was so helpful
Glad it was helpful!
U have informative videos, Thanks!!! What is the best roof paint sealant to put on epdm or tpo roofs to protect and extend longevity?
Thank you! For EPDM or TPO we recommend the Dicor part 1 and part 2 system
What caulk would you recommend for a painted aluminum trailer?
Thanks
Hallo, thanks for trying to help us. I tried the dicor, and it's lousy. It's too thick and forms a skin much too fast. It also caused my rubber roof to bubble up. Big blisters formed. The one I find so far that's much better is the Sikaflex 715. It gives plenty of time before a skin forms and is less thick & pasty and more like honey. It self levels great. I wish Amazon sold it for less cuz it's too expensive. Is there any other brand anyone knows of that's like the Sikaflex 715 but much less expensive and available on Amazon? Thank you so much 💓
Thank you.
what do you use around the windows and doors
For this we typically use Proflex or Sikaflex 221 sealants!
Sikaflex pro is a self leveling caulking
I need to reseal the seam between the fiberglass hightop amd my metal van body. Would you recommend the Sikaflex 227 instead of the 221? I read that it has more flexibility.
We find the 227 has very similar flexibility to the 221, but a much faster curing time!
@@edmontonrv Struggling to find a warm enough dry two days right now, that's valuable information! Thanks!
What can I use over silicone coating
Thanks for good info …😊
Thanks
Great Video Thanks!
You're welcome!
Which caulk / sealant to use should i use on the vertical wall seams of a aluminum trailer??
We use the Sikaflex 221 or Proflex for this application
Thank you for another great video!! Question: What do you use for the sides, vertical, seams,, we have a Itasca Ram VIVA,,,, where the cab seams up against the rv,, any thoughts much appreciated!!
Thanks for watching! For this I would lean towards either Sikaflex 221 or Proflex. Great adhesion and longevity, and it isn’t self leveling so it won’t drip down the side.
What about Sikaflex 715 and TPO roof?
That product is very new to the industry and our techs don't have a great deal of experience with it quite yet, but it is specifically designed and safe to use on EPDM and TPO roofs. Avoid using any other products not specifically for a rubber roof though (such as Sikaflex 221), as they can cause issues!
@@edmontonrv I have a small experiment going on right with this product. I’ve replaced some aging self leveling sealant around my ladder to roof attachment with the 715. I like it’s initial workability and texture when cured. It appears to be holding well to the roofing material. so far the only downside I’ve noticed is I had vultures on my roof early in the morning one day and they picked at the new sealant and left the old alone!
So can you go over the original sealant with sikaflex to do spot touch ups or do you have to remove completely. Do they have it in clear?
You can go over old sealant so long as it’s not completely deteriorated and falling off. Make sure to completely encapsulate the old sealant, avoid doing small dabs or partial touch ups.
@edmontonrv can you also do the same with pro flex?
Absolutely! The same applies for Dicor, Sikaflex, Proflex, Alpha, and other RV polyurethane sealants.
What would you recommend for those areas underneath the RV where the water lines come out. (I have some small gaps between the pipes and the RV itself.)
Our techs use spray foam to close off any larger sections and Sikaflex 221 or Proflex for smaller areas!
I need to reseal the D seals on my slide. I have cleaned any signs of old sealant which seams to be silicon. It's a 2022 KZ travel trailer and didn't seem to last very long! What can you recommend for this application
Typically we use Sikaflex 221 for this task! We find it bonds the best to the materials that the slide wiper and D seals are made from. Silicone works temporarily, but doesn't bond as well and gets brittle/falls off sooner.
@@edmontonrv thanks I’ll try tat next time. I used some proflex and it wanted to pill up while trying too tool, we used mineral spirits like they suggested, but still didn’t want to tool very smooth
What works good in the steel rain gutter on camper van between the steel and the fiberglass roof?
Behind the rain gutter you should use putty tape (I'll be covering this in a video very soon) and then to seal the edges of the gutter I'd use Sikaflex or Proflex!
What is a " Cap Sealant " for that Dicor has. ?
The cap sealant is used for any sealant application that doesn’t touch a rubber roof - doors, windows, hatches, etc.
Although these products work at first all that stuff is limited in useful lifespan and becomes so crusty and leaky after a few years in hot sun.
Heres the secret-->Use 4200/5200 to seal your roof penetrations, and youll never have to do it again. I did and my roof is gojng on 8 years and still is sealed lkke the day I applied it.
3M does make some really good goop! The only thing to keep in mind when using these products, especially the 5200, is that most are designed to be a permanent seal. So if a tree falls on your roof vent/skylight and you have to replace it, you won’t be getting that vent flange off without seriously damaging the roofing all around it. But otherwise it is definitely a solid product being that it’s designed for marine applications and has been around for a long time!
@@edmontonrv Hahah!! Well youre 100% right about that, I only glued down a skylight with it once and a few years later a tree broke it and I had to use a fairly aggressive flapper wheel to clean it up lol
As a result I have been using it since for permanently sealing front and rear caps as well as the perimeters of skylights and penetrations, basically any fiberglass, glass, plexiglass, or aluminum. Its insane how long it lasts...14 years on my motorhome and going on 8 years on my Travel Trailer. I scraped and cleaned up the factory cap sealer on the TT then resealed and reglued with 5200 and its like new to this day. On the motorhome I went over the factory sealer because it seemed to be a very stout material. and was only a year old.
I usually use Solar Seal to glue anything down these days, its the best product Ive found to work on the Sunrooms I build as well. Cheers!!
What about resealing windows and trim around the side of the travel trailer?
We've found the best product for that is Sikaflex 221. It adheres better and for longer than other products, and it's also a lot easier to smooth out after applying and make look nice!
@@edmontonrvsikaflex doesn't come in clear or cream color like the one on my rv.
Ah man subscribed and then noticed they stopped making videos so I unsubscribed… I wanted to support them! But seems they gave up.
We have more content coming very soon! Been a very busy summer season for us but we've got some videos lined up to come out next week. Appreciate you checking us out!
@@edmontonrv sounds good resubscribed can’t wait to see