The color split is called chromatic aberration, and it happens because different wavelengths are deflected at different amounts. It’s the same phenomenon that produces rainbows
I’ll definitely be building my own kit now. I’ve been looking into just some cheap gin ones right now just to get used to it. But at the end of the day for a few hundred bucks it seems like I can just build my own. And to have a dual set up I definitely should.
Honestly these units would be pretty sick if you guys switch to sony imx starvis sensors. Esp32 and some Arduino code or even plaform IO to code it will do wonders. Im currently working on something using a imx starvis 400 series of sensors. They're expensive but the lux and fps is worth it. 40 fps 1080P with substantially more lux sensitivity due to the sensor being a 1/8 inch.
I can’t confirm but I’m almost certain the cameras used are starvis sensors. The reason we’re sticking with off the shelf FPV cams is the simplicity of the build. A lot of people struggle with just soldering a huge part of this build is to make it repeatable by anyone with a brain
@@vonscherfarms925 I think most people looking into this would be either will to do the extra work or pay more to have it done to get the best possible results from these I would pay for anything to make it better up to about 3k Love what your doing though, keep it up. Maybe if you get far enough you can do this make a living off of it
@@Gooney_Tunes the majority of people building these are looking for budget (under 1k) night vision adding an MCU into the mix will really complicate things, you would be surprised with how many people don’t understand basic wiring, voltage amperage parallel, series, etc. for the foreseeable future I plan to stick with the current setup. I do have an analog housing on the way as well which targets that 2-5k budget. The issue is the cost of sensors drastically increases. The syonix 1” sensor is commercially available but at a much higher price than the $70 sensors currently used. IMO the money will be much better spent on the thermal fusion device which is also in the works
@@vonscherfarms925 yeah that makes sense, well maybe one day it’ll come out of the DIY spectrum and be produced as a legitimate product and viewed as something worth spending the extra shmeckles on
Have you considered using “Essentium HTN CF25” filament? It claims to be as strong as aluminum. It seems like a good choice because of the amount of work and quality you are putting into these things. I would pay extra for the strongest possible housing and highest quality parts. Might as well go all out if I am already spending the money, and it would still be cheaper than the analog equivalent.
I don’t know the exact size atm I will get back to you in that! But it has some slight changes. Charlie doesn’t require supports for the tube. The display is shifter forward more and it is better waterproofed. The bridge also had a small redesign from the original Deltas which makes the dovetail much stronger
Hey, any plans of getting some more footage through these out? I've been interested in this for a few months but have been on the fence mostly due to the lack of knowing what I'd be seeing.
@@vonscherfarms925 awesome I wanna purchase the v780 displays from your website but couldn't find your foxtrot stls. I did however find your Charlie version
@@vonscherfarms925 I hate to be annoying but I gotta ask. In the discord, what section did you post the files in? I'm having a hard time locating them lol
I haven’t made a bridge for it yet but others have. And some people decided just to not cut a whole in one of the brass tube pieces and leave off the other pod
@@vonscherfarms925 ok cool that’s interesting. First of all, thank you for all your hard work and engineering. I’m really considering this. I’m a veteran so I’ve used real gen 3 nods before, and I wanted my own, but I got a stupid toy digital night vision that isn’t really worth a darn. I can’t quite justify spending more for nods than I did on my car, and so this is a really appealing way to get into night vision. Some questions: what is the lag like? What is the frame rate of the camera and screens, and do you have any specs on the latency in ms? Or just, subjectively, is it noticeable? Is it laggy enough to interfere with tasks at all? Second, how would you say they compare to gen 3 tubes? In terms of lowlight performance and clarity?
@@hunterterrell9930 hey man, theres was some third part testing nd the camera itself had a latency of something like 20ms. the lag is not at all noticeable. they do no have the capability gen 3 has but they work for the majoriry of tasks you would find yourself using nods for. weve done some side by side comparisons against sionyx and it has the same low light capability with out the lag
The color split is called chromatic aberration, and it happens because different wavelengths are deflected at different amounts. It’s the same phenomenon that produces rainbows
I’ll definitely be building my own kit now. I’ve been looking into just some cheap gin ones right now just to get used to it. But at the end of the day for a few hundred bucks it seems like I can just build my own. And to have a dual set up I definitely should.
Was literally just recommend this wow so new so clean
Is there any way I can pay somebody here to build the Pvs69 for me?
Honestly these units would be pretty sick if you guys switch to sony imx starvis sensors. Esp32 and some Arduino code or even plaform IO to code it will do wonders. Im currently working on something using a imx starvis 400 series of sensors. They're expensive but the lux and fps is worth it. 40 fps 1080P with substantially more lux sensitivity due to the sensor being a 1/8 inch.
I can’t confirm but I’m almost certain the cameras used are starvis sensors. The reason we’re sticking with off the shelf FPV cams is the simplicity of the build. A lot of people struggle with just soldering a huge part of this build is to make it repeatable by anyone with a brain
@@vonscherfarms925 I think most people looking into this would be either will to do the extra work or pay more to have it done to get the best possible results from these
I would pay for anything to make it better up to about 3k
Love what your doing though, keep it up. Maybe if you get far enough you can do this make a living off of it
@@Gooney_Tunes the majority of people building these are looking for budget (under 1k) night vision adding an MCU into the mix will really complicate things, you would be surprised with how many people don’t understand basic wiring, voltage amperage parallel, series, etc. for the foreseeable future I plan to stick with the current setup. I do have an analog housing on the way as well which targets that 2-5k budget. The issue is the cost of sensors drastically increases. The syonix 1” sensor is commercially available but at a much higher price than the $70 sensors currently used. IMO the money will be much better spent on the thermal fusion device which is also in the works
@@vonscherfarms925 yeah that makes sense, well maybe one day it’ll come out of the DIY spectrum and be produced as a legitimate product and viewed as something worth spending the extra shmeckles on
man, please share what you are doing with the imx sensors. I want to do that to. I was thinking just like you for those starlight cctv sensores
Have you considered using “Essentium HTN CF25” filament?
It claims to be as strong as aluminum. It seems like a good choice because of the amount of work and quality you are putting into these things.
I would pay extra for the strongest possible housing and highest quality parts. Might as well go all out if I am already spending the money, and it would still be cheaper than the analog equivalent.
I’ll definitely check it out!
Do you sell a complete kit with everything included? Like everything you need to build these?
Do you plan on making a single monocular version of this sometime?
There’s been remixes that make it a mono but for now it’s binos
@@vonscherfarms925 where can those be found?
Any thoughts on the caddax Polar camera?
It looks very promising! But I haven’t tested it
Can you build these as a monocular?
Hey quick question, what’s depth perception like with these? Thanks
Do you plan on ever trying panoramics?
Already did quads but they’re not needed since these are already wide angle lenses?
So the Charlie is just a more waterproof Delta that has a larger O-ring? What is the size?
I don’t know the exact size atm I will get back to you in that! But it has some slight changes. Charlie doesn’t require supports for the tube. The display is shifter forward more and it is better waterproofed. The bridge also had a small redesign from the original Deltas which makes the dovetail much stronger
Hey, any plans of getting some more footage through these out? I've been interested in this for a few months but have been on the fence mostly due to the lack of knowing what I'd be seeing.
Check out vasdrakon
@@vonscherfarms925 just did, thank you
Could you fit this setup inside some moc pvs-31 ?
Parts ordered :) is there diagrams out for wires?
Going to make this on my resin printer. got a discord to post updates?
if i buy the housing online, will it be super smooth like in the video, or rigid
Does anyone have the link for the parts I have the model?
I dropped the 69th like! Nice!
if i just want the buck by it self where can i order them at?
Is this the Foxtrot?
not sure if it's been asked but can you tell us what's the tan filament you're using in the other vids? It's really nice :D
Hatchbox matte brown
Do you have an stl file for these?
Files are in the discord! Link in description
Would you recommend a resin printer for this regarding the waterproof and overall structural integrity?
I can’t say that I’d recommend resin since I designed these to work with FDM like the tolerances and thickness of the walls etc
Coating the exterior in resin post print would help with waterproofing
We also want to use a battery nvg holder so is that possible ? Let me know how to order the kit
What's the avg expense in total on complete build?
A set of 69gen 3 will set you back about $600-700 and gen 4s are about $700
if i spend the 900 on the site to build them do i get everything to get these up and running?
Link to your website?
How much would a monocular unit cost?
do you have a build video for the gen-3 foxtrot or is this the foxtrot version?
They’re basically the same
@@vonscherfarms925 awesome I wanna purchase the v780 displays from your website but couldn't find your foxtrot stls. I did however find your Charlie version
@@joeypillz Charlie is pretty outdated at this point. The foxtrot files are in the discord I just posted some updates last night
@@vonscherfarms925 I hate to be annoying but I gotta ask. In the discord, what section did you post the files in? I'm having a hard time locating them lol
@@joeypillz the channel that says “PVS-69 files”
Do you have link for buy the displays?
I have them on my webstore now
Is there a monocular option? It would cut costs and be an easier assembly
I haven’t made a bridge for it yet but others have. And some people decided just to not cut a whole in one of the brass tube pieces and leave off the other pod
@@vonscherfarms925 ok cool that’s interesting. First of all, thank you for all your hard work and engineering. I’m really considering this. I’m a veteran so I’ve used real gen 3 nods before, and I wanted my own, but I got a stupid toy digital night vision that isn’t really worth a darn. I can’t quite justify spending more for nods than I did on my car, and so this is a really appealing way to get into night vision.
Some questions: what is the lag like? What is the frame rate of the camera and screens, and do you have any specs on the latency in ms? Or just, subjectively, is it noticeable? Is it laggy enough to interfere with tasks at all?
Second, how would you say they compare to gen 3 tubes? In terms of lowlight performance and clarity?
@@hunterterrell9930 hey man, theres was some third part testing nd the camera itself had a latency of something like 20ms. the lag is not at all noticeable. they do no have the capability gen 3 has but they work for the majoriry of tasks you would find yourself using nods for. weve done some side by side comparisons against sionyx and it has the same low light capability with out the lag
If I want 2 kits from you how much for two complete kits? We want our search and rescue team two of these to try out,
are you stocking up on the kits any time soon? id love to buy a kit to try building one myself.
Amazing work btw :)
oh I think I just discovered the Alpha hardware kit. Is this one needed to build the FOXTROT Gen4 unit?
thnx :)
@@Qadi90 did away with foxtrot the alpha kit is what you need
@@vonscherfarms925 got it. will go with files and kit from your website to not end up mixing things up.
Bonjour ou trouver c’est écran ?
does the display connector matter as far as which you choose
No it gets cut off anyways
@@vonscherfarms925 I figured! Thanks
can i have a parts list?
Is there a reason to use such a small display?
High pixel density and small pixel sizes give a clearer image under a lens which is needed for viewing up close
@@vonscherfarms925where can I find your website? Thanks!
Could you try to make a PVS-31?? I think it a lot better looking than the PVS69
Looks basically the same. The 69 was built mostly off 31 specs like the dovetail height, IPD etc
Could you fit this setup inside some moc pvs-31 ?