Haven't watched the full video yet but a good rule of thumb for smoke is: White: Coolant burning. Head gasket quite common for this. Black: Over fuelling. Could be MAF sensor, injector or maybe other fuel system issue. Blue: Oil burning (This also stinks to high heaven!). That can be turbo, head gasket, cracked head or block, a number of things. Usually turbo though.
Hi mate had the same problem on my 10 plate mk7 burning oil like no Tomorrow. The engine had so much pressure it was like a steam engine firing through the oil filler cap and blasting through the timing chain cover.Found out the rocker cover has a pressure relief valve in it at the top right hand corner which sends the pressure into the the air flow turbo pipe through the turbo and out through manifold.The valve is spring activated and full off that much shit it was sending the pressure back. The copper washers had gone on the injectors hence the burning oil. New rocker cover new copper seals and injector seals full service and its running like a dream hope this helps thanks Chris
The breather in the the of the rocker cover is blocked causing to much crankcase pressure thats why it's blowing its oil everywhere. Its run dry at some point that's why the the rocker has jumped out and camshaft is worn The plug on the right hand side is a factory blank, as is the one on same part as the injector loom.
I'm currently doing something similar. Got a good deal on a tidy looking van that was in bits engine wise. Put a new water pump with pipe work as that was leaking hence the bits. Now iv done the top injection seals as it was bit oily around them. Now onto new fuel return pipe as it snaped taking injectors out. Came with new rear leaf springs from owens that are wider. So stronger. Fingers crossed. You helping me out so keep it up
Poss lobes have spun/moved and pulled the rollers bending them. Find TDC on another piston and mark timing. do that on a few manually turning the engine and see if the lobe has moved.
Used for a bit of joinery work only very light use!! I’ve had a few transits with the same symptoms and we’re easy enough to get tested and back on the road again!! Need to check the amount of oil in it and keep it topped up at all times!!!!!!! The chassis of your van is very solid underneath and doesn’t need any welding or anything like that!!!!! Only issue is what’s the under the bonnet and what is the issue with it should be cheap enough to sort out because you’ve bought it cheap anyway so not to worry about it!!! God bless you man and keep your videos coming thanks for sharing your videos and I was wondering if you were going to get back to this transit because I watched part 1 and it was bugging me to find out what the issue was !!!!!!!!! Your a ace guy and a very genuine person to begin with!!!!!! Like your videos because you are so truthful and honest about what’s going on with your motor’s!!!!! It’s a very good we van inside and out And it’s very well worth saving her for another few years!!
Well, thank you very much for your kind comments. I really appreciate it 👍... I'm in two minds to give the engine a full strip down and replace all the damaged parts ... The cost of a replacement is 1k plus, so if I can do it myself, then it will be a cracking van...& save a few quid... videos are once a week, but as I have more than one project, I have to split them up, 😆
I called it in the last video! This is common, especially when the engine has been ragged hard. The reason it still runs is because the other valve for that cylinder is still working so you're still on four cylinders. Check the followers for cracks (they're not expensive) and put it back together.
Unplugged connectors could potentially be spare. Most modern wiring looms are made for several specs of the car/van model. The connector near the gearbox looks to have a blanking plug fitted to it? Black smoke is soot, potentially indicative of an air leak on the intake system or egr valve fault.
EGR cooler sucks water through when split inside. So if or when any cylinder head repair is added it just blocks & ceases the EGR valve & temp fixes the problem but then a code comes up for EGR. So by coupling the two water pipes up stops it from smoking steam through the exhaust & proves it’s the EGR cooler. Then it can be replaced or left as is. It’s a problem that many people tend to go straight to the cylinder head & at a Hefty bill.
And ex diesel mechanic here ..and also welsh ... experience will come in time every day is a leaning day and one vehicle can be slight difference within a year apart but look identical ...and then you will know what is wrong sometimes just by the sound like a wheel bearing for example ..but you have to get others to make the sound even if you know full well what's wrong lol
I've had the same problem with some of the transit vans I have had with the oil it is more than likely to be the turbo so what I did was change the intercooler and the turbo an that seem to solve the issue
Enjoying your videos, keep up the good work. I wrote a comment to suggest the two plugs connected together but then you said later in the video you’d considered that - that’ll teach me to watch all the way through before commenting. Not sure why but I love watching all these car repair and salvage type videos, I find them therapeutic for some reason. I’ve just had the engine swapped in my boys Corsa (old one failed) and I’ve kept the old engine to try and teach myself a bit with the aid of the Haynes manual!
In between the sills underneath are small drainage holes. They get bunged up give them a clean out and poke any muck out it helps towards that never ending battle of rot down there!
Can’t wait to see if you cracked that knocking noise!! I bet you have too that cam was well out! Your teaching us along with yourself it’s like learning on the job 👍
the cable with foil on is probably from the exhaust sensor plugs that are not used normally are caped or dirty on the end not clean . they go to something i would pull it to see its range of movement this will give you a better idea were it could fit to..
What I would suggest doing now once Iv seen the bent lobes is take the head off and inspect the piston surface and then check if any valves are bent if surface is alright or slightly marred you can get a new piston head or if valves are bent you can get valves replaced ( get it done at an engine shop ). I’d also if your replacing valves is replace the valve seals as well while at the engine shop ( also get the head skimmed and a new headgasket and exhaust and intake manifold seals ( a set including a head gasket would be an extra 100 or so quid including head bolts
Either fit new copper washers or clean and anneal the old ones. They harden with use/age but heat them up then quench them in a cup of oil or whatever and they are re-usable. I suspect you are going to want to drop the sump to check the big end shells and oil pickup - if you want to go that far.
The way it is boarded is a very similar way I have mine, all the power tools or expensive stuff goes underneath and I reverse up to my fence so if the borrowers ever pop my side door they can’t get the good stuff.
Tidy looking van inside. And sills and so forth look look solid. I would drop your oil put an engine cleaner through it fresh filter and see how it goes. You can also check end float on turbo by getting into the fins and wiggling back and forth also left and right. To much plY then it's knackerd
"Thanks for the advice! It's always good to have a checklist for maintenance. Dropping the oil, using an engine cleaner, and checking the turbo for any issues as per your suggestion would definitely be a start Your advise is much appreciated!
Rocker arms are FUBARed which means those two valves were not operating correctly and could of made contact with top of that piston which isn't good. You will definitely have to remove the head and check those valves and piston for damage imo. Keep those injectors in order they came out and make sure you cover those fuel pump outlets and dipstick hole in case dirt gets down them. Mick
There blank plugs mate as the loom is for diff models so not used on all the only one u need is the little one by the fuel filter it should go on the bottom of the fuel filter
Great video mate. Can't wait for next video. You done a good job there. Van is pretty tidy really. Like you said get the engine running and tidy up the body and you got a cracking van. Take care chap
If it’s running rich it could be bad injector seals. You can check for bad deals by running the engine and putting Your hand over the injectors to feel for air rushing past
Disconnect the injectors 1 at a time engine should change note if not the one cylinder is a problem could be compression or bad injector. Try do compression test will tell you if cylinders or head are bad.
Black smoke means running too rich sometimes a dirty oil filter can cause this. Also seems to diesel knock abit might need the injectors replacing or re learning
Black smoke is overfuelling. Blue smoke is oil burning, theres no blue there so I'd say youre safe turbo and seals wise. The knocking is likely linked due to the overfuelling too with pre ignition. It wouldnt surprise me if all injectors are worn. Reconditioned set should sort you for a tidy price - new ones are extortionate
I think the aerial type cable / plug goes to the bottom of the fuel filter and senses water in the fuel filter. Some aftermarket filters don't have the socket to attach the plug so it just gets left hanging
Aside from the problem with your rockers it looks like the injectors have been blowing (that’s why there’s loads of carbon on them) This carbon ends up in the oil pick pipe in the sump and restricts the oil flow causing serious problems. The sumps are easy to drop worth doing this and cleaning the pick up to save the engine. Great vid by the way!
Hey, thanks for this, it's really interesting info. I just did an oil change on mine, and I started getting an oil light on when the engine was cold. My engine is leaking oil from the rocker gasket and the injector seals look leaky too. I replaced my oil pressure switch and the problem went away, but I was suspecting that something like this might be possible, or part of it. Trouble is my engine is incredibly rusty, I'm not sure if it's possible to get the sump off. Do you think this is what I've been struggling with? Thanks for the comment, food for thought!
I’m not sure if I can help, but could it be water pump failure or a stuck thermostat, if the water isn’t flowing around the engine then it’s just going to get hot and blow the cap. Just out of curiosity you might also have an airlock in the pipes. Or it could be more serious try some transit forums their a great resource if you’re stuck, I wish I could help buddy
as far as layout i have my mowers in the side door, can fit 2 honda rollers in the side door. i have 3 shelves along the right hand side for long tools like hoe's and strimmers etc
It looks like you used the wrong seat cutter on those mate or it could just be the camera playing tricks. You need to use the flat one not the cone shaped one or the the washer won’t seal also don’t remove too much or you will need a thicker washer. Good find with the cam followers 👍
Let’s hope can sort the mk7 transit doesn’t look a bad van.. I’ve got mk8 custom I’m trying to sort at the moment.. but I like my old mk7 transit brilliant van
Top video I only came across it because I’ve got the exact same van and had some oil leak issues! I’ve changed rocker cover gasket, injector seals, cleaned and put new gaskets on the intake manifold and fingers crossed it’s not looking too bad. The underneath is clean and pretty sure that’s the original factory seal that it’s coated with mines exactly the same 👍
if you ever get a stuck copper washer just pour a little coke cola down the passage where the injectors go, i use a pencil to seal the hole.works wonders does the coke cola loosens everthing believe me cheers
Just come across your channel..Excellent content fella.. If you looking for a jump pack I’ve tried loads over the years but my no1 pack is the Noco GB70…..worth its weight in gold never let me down.. What part of wales you from?..
i got one of these defo got a leak like yours just had to replace the clutch and alt probably do it some good to do what you did there replacing seals and stuff really want to see how easy it is to get it all back on though as its my only vehicle and I've been off the road enough this year. ill try to locate some of those wires and that for you also that small hollow one with the 90 degree cap on the end goes on the bottom of that white thing on the right
Check injectors are tight at all joints before refitting as sometimes they loosen up when twisting them out and can then dump fuel into the oil and wreck the turbo and engine. The horrible noise when running is because the exhaust gas has nowhere to go except back through the inlet valve as the followers are misaligned. Also check the lobes on camshaft haven't spun, but I would replace the cams anyway and check the bridge as they have a habit of cracking. Good luck 😀
had mondeo disel same age. but low mileage.....i fuelled it up at (dodgy?) petrol station...it did that black soot thing on the floor....but once i went to supermarket station and filled her up it went back to normal...no soot or black smoke.
Timing has jumped your lucky the cam carrier hasn't snapped they are prone and ive done loads. New top end to be sure but you could always try a couple of rockers you might just be lucky. The old ones will be bent dont use them but there is a reason the rockers jumped in the first place.
When it cold it started but when you try it off and then when you to start it again it well not go on after a few try of t turnover it well not start you about 5 or 6 times again
We have the same engine in our taxi multi seater it a very noisy engine anyway. The suffer from broken piston skirts that make them sound like there going to blow up. They also suffer with lazy start caused by a bad earth that’s bolted to the seat base they normally burn the paint off and it goes rusty. That knock sounds more like camshaft lifters it’s at half engine speed. When you put new copper washer on injectors use a little bit of grease to keep washer on injector so it sits on injector when you put it back in so they don’t get stuck in injector hole. Now sometimes they double up copper washers because at some point the injector has come loose and has damage the seat where the injector sits causing it to leak compression.
You should remove those rockers & re check they crack in the middle, clean cam lobe with fine emery paper, the wire you said looked like aerial lead plugs on bottom of fuel filter, it's the water sensor. Hope this helps
mine chucks out black smoke/soot, it' was an egr fault. i put a cheap egr in and it lasted 4/6 months at most. i cleaned the original one and put it back in and it runs fine again still though the service light comes on and off when it feels like it. runs absolutley fine tho
Why not do engine flush before starting as you will be replacing old oil anyway. Also looks like inlet manifold will need removing and cleaning with all that excess oil. Good luck. look forward to next vid.
Loved the 2nd episode! Crikey you have made great progress! So as far as I know the wire by the fuel filter is for a sensor that some fuel filters have for “Water in fuel’ some have it some don’t. Wouldn’t worry about it. It may come up as a DTC but ignore it. The other wire above the gearbox has me stumped? Maybe some sensor behind the engine? Something on the exhaust? When it stops raining I will have a look at my van and see if I can see it!!! As for other comments about the smoke I think it could be worn injectors but there is a procedure in IDS to re-calibrate the injectors and the SCV valve, most on the Transit form call it “learns” most will say when you have these kind off issues get your learns done. I would say this is a must when you are done with the top end….. Trust me it will make a difference as I suspect it may never of been done even thou the SCV looks newish…. 2 washers on the injector definitely won’t help haha you have done all the seats same as I did. Worth putting a little grease on the washer so it stays on the injector as you pop them back in. Top work matey really good project and something different. Looking forward to episode 3.
I think it’s had a new side door it’s a different shade of white when you sort the rust out it’s definitely work giving it a quick buff all the way round👌🏻
Aye m8 reading aw your comment seems aw positive witch is gr8 no one trying hammer you exstra Aye no got clue about it but keen find out hope you get results your after
The wire above the gearbox / near fuel pump Might be redundant- it’s probably the cable for the models fitted with electric actuator turbo - your model looks to be a basic mk7 so will have a rod actuated turbo - Ford tend to make wiring looms to fit all models
Haven't watched the full video yet but a good rule of thumb for smoke is:
White: Coolant burning. Head gasket quite common for this.
Black: Over fuelling. Could be MAF sensor, injector or maybe other fuel system issue.
Blue: Oil burning (This also stinks to high heaven!). That can be turbo, head gasket, cracked head or block, a number of things. Usually turbo though.
Great stuff thanks very much 👍 consider myself schooled
@@RevivingSalvage we all have to learn at some point. Top work removing the injectors and rocker cover etc. Looking forward to more! 👍
Hi mate had the same problem on my 10 plate mk7 burning oil like no Tomorrow. The engine had so much pressure it was like a steam engine firing through the oil filler cap and blasting through the timing chain cover.Found out the rocker cover has a pressure relief valve in it at the top right hand corner which sends the pressure into the the air flow turbo pipe through the turbo and out through manifold.The valve is spring activated and full off that much shit it was sending the pressure back. The copper washers had gone on the injectors hence the burning oil. New rocker cover new copper seals and injector seals full service and its running like a dream hope this helps thanks Chris
Q: does a new ebay special rocker cover have this valve you mention as part of it or is it a separate purchase? Thanks
The breather in the the of the rocker cover is blocked causing to much crankcase pressure thats why it's blowing its oil everywhere. Its run dry at some point that's why the the rocker has jumped out and camshaft is worn The plug on the right hand side is a factory blank, as is the one on same part as the injector loom.
I'm currently doing something similar. Got a good deal on a tidy looking van that was in bits engine wise. Put a new water pump with pipe work as that was leaking hence the bits. Now iv done the top injection seals as it was bit oily around them. Now onto new fuel return pipe as it snaped taking injectors out. Came with new rear leaf springs from owens that are wider. So stronger. Fingers crossed. You helping me out so keep it up
Last time I blow the engine up on my Transit, I replaced the rocker cover gasket and it was fine :)
You can charge the key on a tooth brush charger, lay the blue part on the the charging point for about 30 mins
I never thought of using a toothbrush charger for that. I'll give it a try next time. Appreciate the advice!
For real??
Needs some rust repairs
A brilliant honest video. Well done. I really enjoyed it.
Make sure all ejectors are laid in the correct order they come out
Poss lobes have spun/moved and pulled the rollers bending them. Find TDC on another piston and mark timing. do that on a few manually turning the engine and see if the lobe has moved.
Check the turbo. And that camshaft is knackered.
Add an aftermarket infotainment head unit and reversing camera Good vans
I think it needed more than a new stereo lol 😂 yeah I agree though, cracking vans
Used for a bit of joinery work only very light use!!
I’ve had a few transits with the same symptoms and we’re easy enough to get tested and back on the road again!!
Need to check the amount of oil in it and keep it topped up at all times!!!!!!!
The chassis of your van is very solid underneath and doesn’t need any welding or anything like that!!!!!
Only issue is what’s the under the bonnet and what is the issue with it should be cheap enough to sort out because you’ve bought it cheap anyway so not to worry about it!!!
God bless you man and keep your videos coming thanks for sharing your videos and I was wondering if you were going to get back to this transit because I watched part 1 and it was bugging me to find out what the issue was !!!!!!!!!
Your a ace guy and a very genuine person to begin with!!!!!!
Like your videos because you are so truthful and honest about what’s going on with your motor’s!!!!!
It’s a very good we van inside and out
And it’s very well worth saving her for another few years!!
Well, thank you very much for your kind comments. I really appreciate it 👍... I'm in two minds to give the engine a full strip down and replace all the damaged parts ... The cost of a replacement is 1k plus, so if I can do it myself, then it will be a cracking van...& save a few quid... videos are once a week, but as I have more than one project, I have to split them up, 😆
@@RevivingSalvage 😂
Those connectors are just extras for a van with different specs. They use the same wiring loom for various versions of transits.
Hi mate check the front pully when rubber is worn it causes it to knock
I called it in the last video! This is common, especially when the engine has been ragged hard. The reason it still runs is because the other valve for that cylinder is still working so you're still on four cylinders. Check the followers for cracks (they're not expensive) and put it back together.
Unplugged connectors could potentially be spare. Most modern wiring looms are made for several specs of the car/van model. The connector near the gearbox looks to have a blanking plug fitted to it?
Black smoke is soot, potentially indicative of an air leak on the intake system or egr valve fault.
That plug on the end of injector plugs factory blank harness used on a few engine's you will have a few around the the engine bay
Have one of those on my Focus Altinator lead , the capped off connection is for The A/C pump if my car had A/C .
RUclips suggested your first transit video, and now I'm hooked. Great videos, really nicely done and well presented.
Are you editing them yourself?
Really interesting! Never seen a video on the same topic that had decent video quality
the plug i think is from the fuel filter water sensor at the bottom of the filter
Thanks for the advice I really appreciate it
EGR cooler sucks water through when split inside. So if or when any cylinder head repair is added it just blocks & ceases the EGR valve & temp fixes the problem but then a code comes up for EGR.
So by coupling the two water pipes up stops it from smoking steam through the exhaust & proves it’s the EGR cooler. Then it can be replaced or left as is. It’s a problem that many people tend to go straight to the cylinder head & at a Hefty bill.
you have got me hooked now mate. i have only watched the 2 transit vids and i have subbed so keep up the good work and i hope it works out for you.
Nice catch on the followers and for the age of the van she very clean inside and out . I've been waiting for vid 2 seems like a age since the first 1
And ex diesel mechanic here ..and also welsh ... experience will come in time every day is a leaning day and one vehicle can be slight difference within a year apart but look identical ...and then you will know what is wrong sometimes just by the sound like a wheel bearing for example ..but you have to get others to make the sound even if you know full well what's wrong lol
Nice to have a fellow Welsh man on here... You can never buy or beat experience... thanks very much for your support 👍 🏴🐑👍
I've had the same problem with some of the transit vans I have had with the oil it is more than likely to be the turbo so what I did was change the intercooler and the turbo an that seem to solve the issue
Enjoying your videos, keep up the good work. I wrote a comment to suggest the two plugs connected together but then you said later in the video you’d considered that - that’ll teach me to watch all the way through before commenting.
Not sure why but I love watching all these car repair and salvage type videos, I find them therapeutic for some reason. I’ve just had the engine swapped in my boys Corsa (old one failed) and I’ve kept the old engine to try and teach myself a bit with the aid of the Haynes manual!
Sand the rust, rep, prime and paint the rust make a nice van rough and ready.
In between the sills underneath are small drainage holes. They get bunged up give them a clean out and poke any muck out it helps towards that never ending battle of rot down there!
I will check them out cheers 👍
I’ve got a mk6 just bought a mig welder to do the sills the drivers side is more rotty
Great find on the rockers, make sure you use new bolts on the injector hold down clamps as they're stretch bolts
yes..change the bolts or it will leak by...
Another great video mate.
Your channels just sprung board and I'm chuffed for you.
Don't forget us OGs haha
Can’t wait to see if you cracked that knocking noise!! I bet you have too that cam was well out! Your teaching us along with yourself it’s like learning on the job 👍
I will definitely be doing more to the Transit engine... im glad your enjoying it 😊
the cable with foil on is probably from the exhaust sensor plugs that are not used normally are caped or dirty on the end not clean .
they go to something i would pull it to see its range of movement this will give you a better idea were it could fit to..
When you take the oil cap off while running it’s normal for a certain amount of pressure to be felt as the chambers arent 100%sealed
Cheers 👍
Broken head gasket? Try with sealer It can work? Good luck!
Looking @ your video that sign of the rocker out of place is timing chain has slipped
What I would suggest doing now once Iv seen the bent lobes is take the head off and inspect the piston surface and then check if any valves are bent if surface is alright or slightly marred you can get a new piston head or if valves are bent you can get valves replaced ( get it done at an engine shop ). I’d also if your replacing valves is replace the valve seals as well while at the engine shop ( also get the head skimmed and a new headgasket and exhaust and intake manifold seals ( a set including a head gasket would be an extra 100 or so quid including head bolts
I was thinking of buying a complete head, with all the cams & followers, replace the chain ⛓️ & fit it myself roughly £500 for a brand new head
Either fit new copper washers or clean and anneal the old ones. They harden with use/age but heat them up then quench them in a cup of oil or whatever and they are re-usable. I suspect you are going to want to drop the sump to check the big end shells and oil pickup - if you want to go that far.
The way it is boarded is a very similar way I have mine, all the power tools or expensive stuff goes underneath and I reverse up to my fence so if the borrowers ever pop my side door they can’t get the good stuff.
Check pistons piston rings, Cam, and injectors big ends crank shaft and air filter.. good luck fella look good to do up ..
Oil. pump failure is common in the transit . The co!our of that top.end isn't a good sign either
Also, this video was that interesting, I didn't even realise it was 46 mins until it had finished 👍👍👍
I glad you enjoyed it... thanks for watching 👀 I really appreciate it 👍
Tidy looking van inside. And sills and so forth look look solid. I would drop your oil put an engine cleaner through it fresh filter and see how it goes. You can also check end float on turbo by getting into the fins and wiggling back and forth also left and right. To much plY then it's knackerd
"Thanks for the advice! It's always good to have a checklist for maintenance. Dropping the oil, using an engine cleaner, and checking the turbo for any issues as per your suggestion would definitely be a start Your advise is much appreciated!
Nice work like your handy little tools. Looks tidy inside get rid of the shelf in back . Look forward to hear her run 🤞.
Rocker arms are FUBARed which means those two valves were not operating correctly and could of made contact with top of that piston which isn't good. You will definitely have to remove the head and check those valves and piston for damage imo. Keep those injectors in order they came out and make sure you cover those fuel pump outlets and dipstick hole in case dirt gets down them. Mick
I hear full fat coke over night cleans injectors up a treat. Nice video
the old mk7 looks ok mate sort out the nocking out be good little van top video davey east london cars
There blank plugs mate as the loom is for diff models so not used on all the only one u need is the little one by the fuel filter it should go on the bottom of the fuel filter
Thanks very much 👍
Putting engine components ON TARMAC! Lovely way of getting grit into your engine!
Great video mate. Can't wait for next video. You done a good job there. Van is pretty tidy really. Like you said get the engine running and tidy up the body and you got a cracking van. Take care chap
*My cousin has one of these and has owned it for about two years now these vans are absolute work horses especially diesels they just keep going* 👏
If it’s running rich it could be bad injector seals. You can check for bad deals by running the engine and putting Your hand over the injectors to feel for air rushing past
Thanks very much for your advice I really appreciate it 👍
Colour on the cam at the end where the issue is looks like its got hot. Its more orange/brown vs other side.
Disconnect the injectors 1 at a time engine should change note if not the one cylinder is a problem could be compression or bad injector. Try do compression test will tell you if cylinders or head are bad.
Black smoke means running too rich sometimes a dirty oil filter can cause this. Also seems to diesel knock abit might need the injectors replacing or re learning
Enjoy watching your vids. Keep up the great content
Glad to hear it 👍
Black smoke is overfuelling. Blue smoke is oil burning, theres no blue there so I'd say youre safe turbo and seals wise. The knocking is likely linked due to the overfuelling too with pre ignition. It wouldnt surprise me if all injectors are worn. Reconditioned set should sort you for a tidy price - new ones are extortionate
Exactly the same on our old sprinter injector recon sorted it out
@@jakejohnson_ you can’t recon injectors the he Peugeot engine in this ford
@@CORRIGEEN71 not a Peugeot engine It’s unrelated to the DW12
Probably just got no DPF🤣
I think the aerial type cable / plug goes to the bottom of the fuel filter and senses water in the fuel filter. Some aftermarket filters don't have the socket to attach the plug so it just gets left hanging
That makes perfect sense now 👌 but at the time it was blowing my brain 🧠 lol thanks very much 👍
Thanks another great video
Aside from the problem with your rockers it looks like the injectors have been blowing (that’s why there’s loads of carbon on them)
This carbon ends up in the oil pick pipe in the sump and restricts the oil flow causing serious problems. The sumps are easy to drop worth doing this and cleaning the pick up to save the engine.
Great vid by the way!
Hey, thanks for this, it's really interesting info. I just did an oil change on mine, and I started getting an oil light on when the engine was cold. My engine is leaking oil from the rocker gasket and the injector seals look leaky too. I replaced my oil pressure switch and the problem went away, but I was suspecting that something like this might be possible, or part of it. Trouble is my engine is incredibly rusty, I'm not sure if it's possible to get the sump off. Do you think this is what I've been struggling with? Thanks for the comment, food for thought!
Folks, I have a 2.2 diesel 2012, presurising the coolant system, will eventually blow all the coolant out through the header tank, any ideas? 19:19
I’m not sure if I can help, but could it be water pump failure or a stuck thermostat, if the water isn’t flowing around the engine then it’s just going to get hot and blow the cap. Just out of curiosity you might also have an airlock in the pipes. Or it could be more serious try some transit forums their a great resource if you’re stuck, I wish I could help buddy
The problem with that seat cutter cleaner is its for tapered seat.
These injector seats are flat.
as far as layout i have my mowers in the side door, can fit 2 honda rollers in the side door. i have 3 shelves along the right hand side for long tools like hoe's and strimmers etc
Makes perfect sense 👌 thanks
It looks like you used the wrong seat cutter on those mate or it could just be the camera playing tricks. You need to use the flat one not the cone shaped one or the the washer won’t seal also don’t remove too much or you will need a thicker washer. Good find with the cam followers 👍
rubber intercooler pipe has a split in it making it black smoke
Can't wait for the next episode, looks like you may have a bargain there.
Intake gaskets and all breathers and new copper washers should of been done with this job!
Thanks for the video, but what's happened one year on??
New video has just been uploaded buddy
Let’s hope can sort the mk7 transit doesn’t look a bad van.. I’ve got mk8 custom I’m trying to sort at the moment.. but I like my old mk7 transit brilliant van
Those 4 mounts on side side door side are mounts for removable seats
Top video I only came across it because I’ve got the exact same van and had some oil leak issues! I’ve changed rocker cover gasket, injector seals, cleaned and put new gaskets on the intake manifold and fingers crossed it’s not looking too bad. The underneath is clean and pretty sure that’s the original factory seal that it’s coated with mines exactly the same 👍
The wire you thought was an aerial wire goes on the bottom of the fuel filter
if you ever get a stuck copper washer just pour a little coke cola down the passage where the injectors go, i use a pencil to seal the hole.works wonders does the coke cola loosens everthing believe me cheers
Just come across your channel..Excellent content fella..
If you looking for a jump pack I’ve tried loads over the years but my no1 pack is the Noco GB70…..worth its weight in gold never let me down..
What part of wales you from?..
Looks promising fingers crossed for you.
Thanks very much 👍
i got one of these defo got a leak like yours just had to replace the clutch and alt probably do it some good to do what you did there replacing seals and stuff really want to see how easy it is to get it all back on though as its my only vehicle and I've been off the road enough this year. ill try to locate some of those wires and that for you also that small hollow one with the 90 degree cap on the end goes on the bottom of that white thing on the right
I would say uther turbo or blocked breather pipe that can blow oil straight out
I do love a transit Subbed and 👍
Dont use that copper washer puller abit broke off mine and went into cylinder get the one like a screw puller with slide hammer on it much better👍😁
the anchors in the back is for a second set of seats
Should have to use a injector Puller they came out to Easy
Everybody loves a ford transit 😎👍👍👍❤️ top content
Check injectors are tight at all joints before refitting as sometimes they loosen up when twisting them out and can then dump fuel into the oil and wreck the turbo and engine. The horrible noise when running is because the exhaust gas has nowhere to go except back through the inlet valve as the followers are misaligned. Also check the lobes on camshaft haven't spun, but I would replace the cams anyway and check the bridge as they have a habit of cracking. Good luck 😀
had mondeo disel same age. but low mileage.....i fuelled
it up at (dodgy?) petrol station...it did that black soot thing
on the floor....but once i went to supermarket station and filled her up it went back to normal...no soot or black smoke.
That black smoke is your AGR valve
Great video mate look forward to the next one 👍
That Ford badge on the front of the van is worn through leaning on it talking to his mates 😂
Timing has jumped your lucky the cam carrier hasn't snapped they are prone and ive done loads. New top end to be sure but you could always try a couple of rockers you might just be lucky. The old ones will be bent dont use them but there is a reason the rockers jumped in the first place.
When it cold it started but when you try it off and then when you to start it again it well not go on after a few try of t turnover it well not start you about 5 or 6 times again
We have the same engine in our taxi multi seater it a very noisy engine anyway. The suffer from broken piston skirts that make them sound like there going to blow up. They also suffer with lazy start caused by a bad earth that’s bolted to the seat base they normally burn the paint off and it goes rusty. That knock sounds more like camshaft lifters it’s at half engine speed. When you put new copper washer on injectors use a little bit of grease to keep washer on injector so it sits on injector when you put it back in so they don’t get stuck in injector hole. Now sometimes they double up copper washers because at some point the injector has come loose and has damage the seat where the injector sits causing it to leak compression.
Reviving salvage Hello, did you find the injector plug where it was removed from the back of the engine?
I honestly can’t remember now it was a while ago lol
You should remove those rockers & re check they crack in the middle, clean cam lobe with fine emery paper, the wire you said looked like aerial lead plugs on bottom of fuel filter, it's the water sensor. Hope this helps
mine chucks out black smoke/soot, it' was an egr fault. i put a cheap egr in and it lasted 4/6 months at most. i cleaned the original one and put it back in and it runs fine again still though the service light comes on and off when it feels like it. runs absolutley fine tho
I going to strip the engine & give it a new lease of life... hopefully cure a lot of problems along the way 🙏
If it was seals or piston rings it would be burning blue smoke I suspect it’s either running rich a bad turbo or a blocked dpf
Thanks very much 👍
Why not do engine flush before starting as you will be replacing old oil anyway.
Also looks like inlet manifold will need removing and cleaning with all that excess oil.
Good luck.
look forward to next vid.
Great point! Buddy, but I think it's a little more serious than just an oil change.
@@RevivingSalvage Sorry, ment, do engine flush, see what crap is in oil, easier to see any damage.
Check the boost pipes. That causes black smoke like that...
Loved the 2nd episode!
Crikey you have made great progress!
So as far as I know the wire by the fuel filter is for a sensor that some fuel filters have for “Water in fuel’ some have it some don’t. Wouldn’t worry about it. It may come up as a DTC but ignore it.
The other wire above the gearbox has me stumped? Maybe some sensor behind the engine? Something on the exhaust? When it stops raining I will have a look at my van and see if I can see it!!!
As for other comments about the smoke I think it could be worn injectors but there is a procedure in IDS to re-calibrate the injectors and the SCV valve, most on the Transit form call it “learns” most will say when you have these kind off issues get your learns done. I would say this is a must when you are done with the top end…..
Trust me it will make a difference as I suspect it may never of been done even thou the SCV looks newish….
2 washers on the injector definitely won’t help haha you have done all the seats same as I did.
Worth putting a little grease on the washer so it stays on the injector as you pop them back in.
Top work matey really good project and something different.
Looking forward to episode 3.
I think it’s had a new side door it’s a different shade of white when you sort the rust out it’s definitely work giving it a quick buff all the way round👌🏻
Yes not diamond white is it unless its weathered more
Aye m8 reading aw your comment seems aw positive witch is gr8 no one trying hammer you exstra
Aye no got clue about it but keen find out hope you get results your after
Plenty more coming soon 👍
Great work man!
Love how the progress is going :D
Keep up the great work!
Great video keep up the great work that is going to be a good van when you are done 😊😊😊
The wire above the gearbox / near fuel pump
Might be redundant- it’s probably the cable for the models fitted with electric actuator turbo - your model looks to be a basic mk7 so will have a rod actuated turbo - Ford tend to make wiring looms to fit all models
Thank you.
You're probably spot on there 👍
Look forward to the next episode , nothing on RUclips on normal mk7 transits really