The floor is looking great, fixed and painted up. You're doing a great job, while trying to save the customer a little money and giving him a safe car. Can't wait to see more video on the Mustang. Have a great week.
Doing the seam sealer like that, rather than the HUGE beads they did from factory that you can peal off like a sealer snake, seems like a better idea. And people think that paint is the same as the spray paint. It is NOT! That has more solids in it and it will take 3 or 4 days to dry! Great stuff for all kinds of jobs. I painted bunk beds with that 10 years ago and with kids doing kid things its still going strong! Nice work! Love seeing the process that regular people can afford to pay for 👍
I personally like the patch method when it can be done. Especially when it comes to the cost of materials, or having to settle for cheap aftermarket parts that are not correct or up to OEM specifications. AND, especially when you CANNOT buy a replacement panel, because there are none available. For example; my 1970 Mercury Cougar Eliminator. Everyone thinks everything is the same as a Mustang; NO IT'S NOT!😂! This generation Cougar has a 2 inch longer wheel base, so essentially from the front seats to the back , including the rockers is different. A friend of mine tried to use a trunk drop replacement panel for a Mustang, only to have to do a lot of work to make it look and fit correctly in his Cougar. Even though you may be able to find a rust-free used Quater panel, is it worth it and the shipping costs. Or cheaper to do a patch. Heck, my buddy even found out the hard way that the 1969 and 1970 quater panels are slightly different even though they look the same! As for the Rustoleum, I DEFINITELY agree with you there. I was 10 or 11 years old when my father and I started a restoration of a 1959 Chevrolet. He said it was a proven way to save the metal from rusting . That was in 1981! Car's long gone to a new home now, but I can bet it still has perfect floors! Thanks for the videos! Until next time, see ya! 😎🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Another awesome video. You are doing a fantastic job. There's not many who can do this type of work. That black rust paint looks similar if not same as POR15. It's brushes on and drys smooth. And will outlast the car. Nice job 👍
Just a comment. I've been watching people on youtube painting with Rustoleum. On the cheap it looks good. They are reducing it between 2 parts paint to 1 part acetone or enamel reducer. I'm with you that once cured it's a durable paint. I've painted trailers with it. Seems to last longer than the original trailer paint. I understand everything your doing. Looking forward to future post.
It can be reduced but for maximum coverage and flow out I like to use it straight from the can. In a spray application you can use a enamel reducer and hardener just like you would with any acrylic based enamel
I didn't say so but I was talking about spraying it with a paint gun. They were painting cars with a spray gun. The one guy was using acetone. I'm not sure what all in enamel reducer but that's what I used. @@HotRodGuyGarage
I brushed rustoleum on the bottom of my trunk pans that had solid rust. No flaking yet it's been 25 years like that. No prep other than a stiff brush to knock off crusties.
@@HotRodGuyGarage I would consider it an unplanned opportunity to turn lemons into lemonade. It would increase the value of the car and slightly offset the extensive metalwork you are doing. I know the notchbacks have their fans - but its the fastbacks that everyone really wants.
This guy is very lucky you're willing to do all this for this particular car. Got a quick question for you so you're not removing the E coat? Just scuffing and painting over?
You mention it came with crappy panels on it and you replaced a couple with higher quality ones. I’m about to do the floors on my 61 Comet. Do you have a vendor you recommend, or otherwise a way to know if I’m about to buy good or bad patch panels? It’s my first time doing this sort of thing. Also, your videos on this have been very informative for my coming project.
Absolutely 💯 👍, Ideally it would look much nicer to have one solid floor plan but this is not a concourse restoration. He’s just trying to save the owner a little money here and there.
I'm not screaming 22:26 about you getting the metal to HOT Just wondering why you didn't just weld on the inside? I would have welded what I could on the inside and not worrie about grinding it down
@@HotRodGuyGarage If you would have read my question you would see I said "I would have welded what I could on the inside and not worrie about grinding it down" I don't even know why you ground down the welds on the inside because you put seam sealer over them, and you lose most the strength of the weld when you grind it down
For inside floors and non UV exposed areas it's great and long lasting and fends off any future corrosion. For high end cars I use Epoxy sealers but for lower end budget cars this works great and does the job
I’ve had great success with Rustoleum rusty metal primer. It’s loaded with anti rust chemicals, and easy to top coat with your color of choice. Add in a little Flood/ Penitrol to your color and brush it on, it lays very smooth. Otherwise I’d use Epoxy Primer in a paint gun but then you’re dealing with overspray
For those who do not have a welder, I have very good experience for the past decade using metal epoxy for small pin holes. I've even used it for some small patches in tight spots where welding is not possible - but you certainly should continue to rely on welding if the continuity of structure strength is important.
I just hope your customer realizes how much you are doing on his behalf, and doesn't come back in six months screaming because his brother in law said you cut out perfect new parts and jury rigged it all. Too many old car owners don't understand the difference between nice driver and frame off restoration. They often expect the latter results on the budget of the former.
No that's not the proper way to cut a patch. You cut the patch, place it on the rust, scribe it, then cut your rusted area to match the patch, AND you NEVER hammer the patch in tight. Weld needs room to expand. You need a dime size gap for the weld. It's very obvious you really don't know what you're doing..
Thanks for the comment but the patch is just fine and will be for the next 50+ years. As we all know there's about 10,000 different ways to do anything.
Thank you for fixing that man’s car.🚙
Thanks for watching, It's gonna be a good safe car again
Im glad the owner decided to save this. Grea job sir!
It can only keep going up from here
In 30 years they will have a hard time figuring out what is your work and what was factory. Project farm agrees with your paint choice. Great job!
It's great for floors and non uv exposed areas
Great work on the basket case.
Anytime you can 90% of the ugly, that’s a win.
The floor is looking great, fixed and painted up. You're doing a great job, while trying to save the customer a little money and giving him a safe car. Can't wait to see more video on the Mustang. Have a great week.
That's the goal! Thanks for watching
I use tape to make patterns for patch holes like that.
Tape works too
Great job you got that welder tuned in !!!
It's pretty good for these type jobs
It is coming along nicely! Thanks for taking us along.
Thanks for watching!
Doing the seam sealer like that, rather than the HUGE beads they did from factory that you can peal off like a sealer snake, seems like a better idea. And people think that paint is the same as the spray paint. It is NOT! That has more solids in it and it will take 3 or 4 days to dry! Great stuff for all kinds of jobs. I painted bunk beds with that 10 years ago and with kids doing kid things its still going strong!
Nice work! Love seeing the process that regular people can afford to pay for 👍
It's good stuff for sure!
Looking good, going to be a solid car when you’re finished 👍
Hopefully it'll last for years to come
You're making that "Puss-tang" look great again. I've used Rustoleum for almost 50 years and it has always done the job when properly prepped.
It's great when used correctly
Great repair work!😊
Thanks
You are truly a perfect professional body man I like your way of explaining what your plans are.for this old rusty mustang.
I appreciate that!
Cool. And to think I was proud of wire brushing and POR 15ing the floorboard of my 1986 S15. Rustoleum would’ve save me a chunk of change.
It’s awesome that you’re trying to save this guy some money. I hope your channel grows that way you may be able to help others in the future.
Thanks for watching, I'd love to be able to turn this back into a hobby where I could just help people out!
I personally like the patch method when it can be done. Especially when it comes to the cost of materials, or having to settle for cheap aftermarket parts that are not correct or up to OEM specifications. AND, especially when you CANNOT buy a replacement panel, because there are none available. For example; my 1970 Mercury Cougar Eliminator. Everyone thinks everything is the same as a Mustang; NO IT'S NOT!😂! This generation Cougar has a 2 inch longer wheel base, so essentially from the front seats to the back , including the rockers is different. A friend of mine tried to use a trunk drop replacement panel for a Mustang, only to have to do a lot of work to make it look and fit correctly in his Cougar. Even though you may be able to find a rust-free used Quater panel, is it worth it and the shipping costs. Or cheaper to do a patch. Heck, my buddy even found out the hard way that the 1969 and 1970 quater panels are slightly different even though they look the same!
As for the Rustoleum, I DEFINITELY agree with you there. I was 10 or 11 years old when my father and I started a restoration of a 1959 Chevrolet. He said it was a proven way to save the metal from rusting . That was in 1981! Car's long gone to a new home now, but I can bet it still has perfect floors!
Thanks for the videos! Until next time, see ya! 😎🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Looks like a great job to me so far. Seam sealer is great and don’t be shy with it.
Inspiring. I cannot wait to finish my Firebird.
(living in Wyoming with no garage is a car guy's HELL)
I can only imagine what it's like up there
I agree. In CT no garage. Gotta plan around seasons and weather.
@@HotRodGuyGarage I was in a traffic jam here once, then the cattle moved on.
Floor looks Great!
Thank you!
Coming along really well, a heck of a lot of work for you but its a good repair done well.
It's a definite undertaking
You can learn lot watching this. Excellent work and presentation
Glad it can help, and thanks for watching
Great progress, you're turning a nightmare into a dream car.
Nice job. It's going to be so much better.
I think so too!
Another awesome video. You are doing a fantastic job. There's not many who can do this type of work. That black rust paint looks similar if not same as POR15. It's brushes on and drys smooth. And will outlast the car. Nice job 👍
I fix floors exactly the same way you do , except I use
Tremclad paint here in Canada . Nice work !!
Thanks for watching!
The car is starting to really shape up .
Just a comment. I've been watching people on youtube painting with Rustoleum. On the cheap it looks good. They are reducing it between 2 parts paint to 1 part acetone or enamel reducer. I'm with you that once cured it's a durable paint. I've painted trailers with it. Seems to last longer than the original trailer paint. I understand everything your doing. Looking forward to future post.
It can be reduced but for maximum coverage and flow out I like to use it straight from the can.
In a spray application you can use a enamel reducer and hardener just like you would with any acrylic based enamel
I didn't say so but I was talking about spraying it with a paint gun. They were painting cars with a spray gun. The one guy was using acetone. I'm not sure what all in enamel reducer but that's what I used.
@@HotRodGuyGarage
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching
Thin that Rustoleum with acetone. Especially if you aren't going to use the whole can, add some acetone before you close it up.
I brushed rustoleum on the bottom of my trunk pans that had solid rust. No flaking yet it's been 25 years like that. No prep other than a stiff brush to knock off crusties.
It's good stuff for that
I like the Eastwood rust prevention products.
Eastwood makes some good products but have went up in price lately
The sad thing is with how solid the frame rails are, that would've been a nice resto mod project if they had done it right the first time
I agree they done way more harm to this car
Nice trick with the Rustolium and brush. Waiting for your underbody inexpensive clean & paint trick.
Coming soon!
This is an OUTSTANDING series, real world type metal repair, and got me to subscribe to your channel Great work!
Thanks for the kind words, and thank you for subscribing
You have a lot of guts to take on this job. Kudos. What seam sealer did you use?
For this car I used dynatron #550 it's made by 3m just a lower line. I prefer Eastwood's brushable Seam sealer for large or more show car jobs
Nice work 👍
Thanks
Nice work, i would be very happy with the quality of that job if it were my mustang.
My buddy does elaborate metal railings for high end homes and recommends Rustoleum for all his railings and they sit out side everyday for 25-30 years
It's hard to beat a alkyd enamel for many applications
Great work. Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
When you get done.. let us know how many hours and how many materials you used.
Lookin good.
You tube makes it look easy and quick.
Will do
Some good stuff know how to prepare welds before seam sealer
For all the work going into Hackstang, have you or the owner considered doing a fastback conversion while you are at it?
We had discussed it
@@HotRodGuyGarage I would consider it an unplanned opportunity to turn lemons into lemonade. It would increase the value of the car and slightly offset the extensive metalwork you are doing. I know the notchbacks have their fans - but its the fastbacks that everyone really wants.
@@Thomas63r2 I agree fully
This guy is very lucky you're willing to do all this for this particular car.
Got a quick question for you so you're not removing the E coat? Just scuffing and painting over?
Correct just scuffing and painting over the e coat
Great work sir, question, what the name of your light i seen hanging above your head inside the roof ?
It's just a underhood led light
You mention it came with crappy panels on it and you replaced a couple with higher quality ones. I’m about to do the floors on my 61 Comet. Do you have a vendor you recommend, or otherwise a way to know if I’m about to buy good or bad patch panels? It’s my first time doing this sort of thing.
Also, your videos on this have been very informative for my coming project.
I try to look at gauge thickness but these mustang panels are usually listed as thick and light . AMD is a good source if they have your panels
What setting on welder do you use when welding in a patch?
Between 13-13.5v, 6.5-7 inductance, and between 97-99 on the wire feed depending on how the parent metal reacts
Because he does it right
I try it's the only way to make one right
I see no reason to do a whole floor if you can do small patches.
Absolutely 💯 👍, Ideally it would look much nicer to have one solid floor plan but this is not a concourse restoration. He’s just trying to save the owner a little money here and there.
Like it getting up the nerve to try this myself excellent cheers 🥂 sir 😊
I'm not screaming 22:26 about you getting the metal to HOT
Just wondering why you didn't just weld on the inside?
I would have welded what I could on the inside and not worrie about grinding it down
There better access from the outside and I was going to have to do the plug welds anyway
@@HotRodGuyGarage If you would have read my question you would see I said "I would have welded what I could on the inside and not worrie about grinding it down"
I don't even know why you ground down the welds on the inside because you put seam sealer over them, and you lose most the strength of the weld when you grind it down
@@6996brandyl I only lightly hit the inside just enough where any protrusion was knocked down
Rust-Oleum???
For inside floors and non UV exposed areas it's great and long lasting and fends off any future corrosion. For high end cars I use Epoxy sealers but for lower end budget cars this works great and does the job
I’ve had great success with Rustoleum rusty metal primer. It’s loaded with anti rust chemicals, and easy to top coat with your color of choice. Add in a little Flood/ Penitrol to your color and brush it on, it lays very smooth. Otherwise I’d use Epoxy Primer in a paint gun but then you’re dealing with overspray
I seen people use cardboard to make a template for the metal.
Cardboard, paper,tape there are many ways I've got pretty good at eyeballing them over the years
For those who do not have a welder, I have very good experience for the past decade using metal epoxy for small pin holes. I've even used it for some small patches in tight spots where welding is not possible - but you certainly should continue to rely on welding if the continuity of structure strength is important.
I'm on the fence with the panel bond style products
Why not just make a template out of paper
Because I didn't have any available and wasn't needed in this cae
I just hope your customer realizes how much you are doing on his behalf, and doesn't come back in six months screaming because his brother in law said you cut out perfect new parts and jury rigged it all.
Too many old car owners don't understand the difference between nice driver and frame off restoration. They often expect the latter results on the budget of the former.
He is a good guy and is following the videos along also.
No that's not the proper way to cut a patch. You cut the patch, place it on the rust, scribe it, then cut your rusted area to match the patch, AND you NEVER hammer the patch in tight. Weld needs room to expand. You need a dime size gap for the weld. It's very obvious you really don't know what you're doing..
Thanks for the comment but the patch is just fine and will be for the next 50+ years. As we all know there's about 10,000 different ways to do anything.
I take a paper, put it over the 🕳️, then I draw my dirty finger around the edges, and then have a perfect patch.
I do that sometimes also
This is my method. Dirty fingers are always available.