DeWALT DW735 Power Cord Upgrade
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- Опубликовано: 3 авг 2022
- Make your DeWALT DW735 Thickness Planer more versatile with an upgrade to a longer/heavier power cord. If the short cord that comes with this planer limits where and how you can use it consider swapping it out with a modified heavy duty extension cord with this video as a guide. If you don't have the confidence or ability to make the upgrade yourself, a qualified electrician can tackle the task... although the procedure may void your warranty.
If you're considering a DeWALT DW735 thickness planer after watching this video, will you consider shopping with Next Level Carpentry at ACME Tools? Any tools purchased through affiliate links here are the same to you but ACME pays small add fees that support video production at the Channel, which I always appreciate.
ACME prices are always competitive and often match other online outlets, plus they add value by offering a higher level of product knowledge and excellent customer service when compared to other sources who focus more on moving product than on satisfying customers.
DeWALT DW735 thickness planer: imp.i284638.net/6b6qgq
Southwire 25' 12/3 heavy duty extension cord: imp.i284638.net/LPLrZM
Klein cable cutters: imp.i284638.net/5bdL72
Klein Katapult wire strippers: imp.i284638.net/zaKq4r
Milwaukee hex driver bits: imp.i284638.net/BXJGgW
Milwaukee 12' bit extension: imp.i284638.net/zaKqbm
Makita 18v L Ion impact driver: imp.i284638.net/3PKOZv
ACME Tools Full Catalog: imp.i284638.net/Gj5nkL
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Genuine question here, why not just use a 20amp extension cord?
That's exactly what I did for years. Since I'm in the carpentry/woodworking business, I'm constantly looking for ways to increase efficiency of workflow and a 'built in extension cord' means one or two fewer repetitive steps each of potentially dozens of times per month when hooking up the planer for use. For another example of this workflow improvement mindset, check out the pullouts I made for organizing all the stuff that was jammed into my tool cabinets: ruclips.net/video/lzTn8g_05uA/видео.html
It follows the principal in Honest Abe's paraphrased maxim: "If I have 3 hours to chop down a tree, I spend the first 2 hours sharpening my ax"
Doesn't worth it... just simple keep extensions plug in to planer, and so you only have the wall end to plug in or since you looking to reduce time keep it plug in.
Suppose you .ove unit to a point where the 25' aren't enough , aren't you going to use an extension??? Or you going to upgrade to a 50' 🤷🏾♂️.
But u got the skill tools and material to do upgrade... out come can only be a plus
Just the CA glue to hold stubborn screw to driver is enough for a thumbs up! Thanks as always for such great videos.
Why not invest in magnatizer/demagnatizer, works great! Mine is probably 10 years, never had to replenish it.
I did the same thing with my wormdrive saw thanks to Essential Craftsman and now I can confidently do the same thing with my dewalt planer thanks to you! These step by step videos are always a huge help, knowing at the very least I have something to fall back onto if I miss a step
Thanks Paul... I think you're in good company with Essential Craftsman and bound to pick up boots on the ground useful ideas from him. Thanks to for mentioning the benefit of 'step by step'... it's tough to decide what to include and what to omit so your appreciation is, well, appreciated!
Best,
Matt
I love the little tips and tricks that you share, this is priceless knowledge gained over years of work and really come in handy! I work industrial maintenance after being a combat engineer in the Marine Corps and it’s these little tricks that save a lot of time and make tedious jobs that much more enjoyable! Thanks for sharing!
I love when I find solutions to random niche questions or issues I’m having, subscribed!
Excellent use of the Easy Button!
Back when I was building houses I would routinely replace the factory cords on all my circular saws with longer cords to remove the vexations of dealing with multiple job site extension cords. Made life a whole lot easier!
I never thought of doing that!
I bought this same planer after seeing your video on "The care and feeding of the DeWalt DW735 Planer" and I love it!
I always plug it into a 12 AWG drop cord that is 20 feet long for fear of voltage drop, because even though it is stored in my garage, I have to wheel it outside onto my patio to use it (The garage connects to the house via a grillwork gate).
I built my own cart for it out of reclaimed pine wood with a shelf at the bottom to store the 4 inch flex hose that I connect from the blower outlet, to a shipping barrel for collecting the sawdust. The cart is mounted on locking swivel casters for ease of moving it around, and I use the integrated silver handles on the planer to pull it wherever I need it.
I can honestly say that I never noticed the cord keeper on the back so I'll have to check to see if mine has that. I usually just wrap the cord up and tie it with a Velcro tie.
Love your videos, they always keep me on my toes. 😊
I always laughed at the instructions that come with tools saying not to use an extension cord because for whatever reason they decide to use that day. Of course, they never bother to just put a dang larger, longer cord on in the first place since that would add $1.50 to their cost. Nice upgrade, Matt. will be doing that when my warrantee runs out at the end of the year.
Yeah Don, you're right. It doesn't make sense at all lol. They put these short cords on their tools giving you no choice but to use an extension cord.🙄
I just use an extension cord but this is nicer and takes little effort. My favorite upgrade was taking the impeller out. I will definitely do this as well though. Thanks for sharing🙌🤘🙌
This video is very well done. I used a 10 gage extension cord for mine. I use 10 extension cords for all my power tools.
Funny and informative! Enjoyed your sense of humour and teaching moments throughout the video. Thanks for this.
I have an older dewalt planer, and considering that 735, like you have. Good vid.
Nice work: quality, like everything else you build!
Thanks for the Video I like what you do and the way you think. great work and nice one chip :)
Great tip gluing the screw to the screwdriver!
I watched to the end of the end of the end.. entertaining informative and well put together
Thanks for sayin'!
Best,
Matt
Nice update. Nice to have a long heavy gauge cord on your planer.
Thanks James... I think it's a personal preference thing but this, for me in the NLC shop, will reduce frustration considerably. Should have done this years ago but for some reason it only dawned on me recently how easy it would be to make the improvement/upgrade.
Best,
Matt
I've been annoyed by the short cords on my power tools as well . Nice upgrade
I commend ur commitment to the non use of that basic 12 gauge cord u used to extend ur work range !!! As a carpenter using extension cords and cord locks has just been a way of life.
Well that was until cordless everything came along and that certainly simplified things but cordless table saws and cordless thickness planers in MY mind that's just not a reality. 😀✌️
GOOD video 😊
Lol I totally agree. 😁
Great job on the upgrade. As others have said the manufacturers should have longer, heavier grade power cords anyway.
Thanks Tom,
I'm sure there's a host of reasons and excuses why cords are what they are but, like other features that range from absurd to ridiculous, you just gotta do what you gotta do to make 'em work for you and your requirements, right? The stories we could tell about THAT, right?! 😏😎
I just got my first DW735 3 days ago - your previous videos on this puppy were a significant part of my decision making process - THANKS!! ... The cord (in general) always leaves me wanting - thanks for this timely vid, I will likely do the same once I figure out where it's going to live.
Note to the folks at home - the internal resistance of an electrical cord is proportional to the length - so if you go long - go big. It's a shame you couldn't fit a 10 AWG wire in there.
Yes, but behind the wall socket will be 12 AWG, so at some point it does not matter much.
Even this whole project (great video) gained 4 feet of cord length with about zero change in resistance, which is better than adding resistance, but not likely to be a big factor for how the motor runs, considering the other voltage drops from the service panel to the motor (which is what actually matters).
Thanks for the input and upload!! 👍👌
9:12... just slip on some shrink-wrap tubing before you crimp the ends. I always do that when working with line voltage connections.
"Before" is the key word! lol
In this case the shrink needs to go over the exposed female spade receptacle... so goes on after.
@@azenginerd9498 LOL, correct!
@@azenginerd9498 Agree, but I refer to placing the tube on the wire loosely before you crimp so that you can slip it down easily after the end is on.
Great upgrade 👍
Cable Strain Reliefs: Amazon has a wide selection of cable strain reliefs also known as cable glands. I understand DeWalt using the type of strain relief where the cord enters the plainer. I replaced on my smaller Dewalt plainer the input strain relief with a cable gland. If I need to replace the cord, I do not need to get at the screws for the factory strain relief - just loosen the cable gland on the outside.
Great video, very entertaining as well
Nice color coordination as well ;-)
Star bond tip is a good one !!
Glad to see the upgrade passed the "max smoke" test at its initial power up test. 😉
Good upgrade. I always use #12 for my stationary tools. It would be nice if big draw tools like planers and table saws came with longer cords, because it is better to avoid extension cords. When calculating volt drop, you also add the length of cable from the panel (usually #14) to the receptacle.
So is it best to use a 12 ga. or a 14 ga. cord then?
@@JoeLazzara #12 for the entire run from the panel is ideal. It is rarely the case, but if you have a 20A receptacle, then it is wired with #12.
If your receptacle is 10 ft from the panel, then the volt drop from #14 is not a big deal. If it is 50 ft and you also use a 50 ft #14 extension cord, the volt drop is too high.
As always, another great video. You can slide shrink tubing over those wire connectors. Thanks.
I also found the short cord on my Dewalt 735 short to and I think I will do the same upgrade !
I don't think you'd regret it as I've found it well worth the time and few $$ to do this upgrade. If I was to do it over again I'd probably use the whole cord rather than shorten it like I did in this video.
Thanks Chip!
@12:20 It's so obvious when you see it! D'OH! Great tip. I'll be keeping that in my hip pocket! TY
I've used this successfully in situations that are a lot more challenging than this making it a good one 'in your hip pocket'! 😎
Wow. This is a very detailed, step by step instruction for cord replacement. But considering the voiding of the DW735's warranty, and the inordinate amount of time, and possible places to screw up things, I think I'll just go with a 15' 12/3 extension cord and a water-resistant CordSafe Extension Cord Plug Protector Safety Cover to insure it always stays connected. I believe that comes in under work smarter not harder.
You couldn't be more right... but some of us are compelled to go to admittedly ridiculous lengths so that upgrade's are 'just so'. Part of my cavalier attitude is that my planer is probably a full decade beyond any hope of factory warranty coverage and the fact I probably don't qualify for coverage in the first place because I use mine in a business rather than for 'personal use'. Besides that, I've got a genetic aversion to having any unnecessary bulge in a cord if I can avoid it... that comes from decades of frustration on jobsites when they invariably catch on things in the most unlikely places and at the most inopportune times 🤯
Awesome!
BTW The best price for a 12ga extension cord I found for tool projects/upgrades is Costco.
another enjoyable video to watch and learn from. Thanks Matt. I always find myself reaching for a short extension cord.....I have a feeling that 10/12 foot left over cord will come in handy elsewhere too....
Thanks Rick... and you are right about that short but heavy extension cord. Funny thing is I was actually having a mild anxiety attack thinking that I should have made the cord for the planer 2 ft longer for those rare instances when 12 ft isn't quite enough but then I was thankful because I can use it as an extension cord and not have to deal with wrapping up extra length on the planer for the 99% of the times the length I made it is perfect. Actually I can't believe that I didn't make this upgrade 10 years ago...
I love this guy
Even though my memory is very good, it is kind of short! Ha ha! I so resemble that remark!
If you don't have covered connectors, the right idea would be to use heat shrink
Awesome! Guess that's next on my list. --- A little heat shrink on those connectors would have done the trick!
Arctic 2.5 blue for me at 240v. yellow is for 110v here. I love my screwdriver magnetiser for that, less nasty than grease.
great video and how to thanks
Nice. I would be nice to be able to mount one of those spring retractable extension cords under the table and just use that but they would be a little light for that planer.
Good upgrade. I have done the same with a number of tools. It is much better to replace the cord from at the machine than it is to plug it into an extension cord. It would be nice if they would just manufacture them with longer #12 cords when they make them.
I'd like to do that with my Dewalt table saw also.
So a 12 ga. replacement cord would be fine to use?
Does the length matter?
Thanks!
@@JoeLazzara Yes, the length matters. While I would not recommend an extension cord longer than 25' for regular use of such a saw, I would most likely make a permanent cord 15' at the most.
It's been a long time since I noticed a corded power tool with a decent cord.
Coincidentally, I have a few Dewalt tools that had terrible OEM cords and now need replacements. They were back up tools, so will likely be sold off or given away, it was never a priority repair.
I always find it entertaining when an end user says "it only adds pennies to the final cost" to add a feature or an extra foot of cord. That's X times a few million units. No corporation or individual is going to smile at eating that cost to sate old farts like me.
So, with that: I appreciate you being you and upgrading your tools to fit your needs better.
(Quality cords are getting more and more costly, even bare wire and replacement male and female ends are no longer a cost effective option: Copper prices)
Nice job. I would have soldered the new connectors though. Until next time, stay safe. 👍
Thanks!
Thanks backatcha, Hansang... much appreciated!
My 735 needs this upgrade. I would do it somewhat differently: Clip off the OEM wire where it goes into the housing at the back and remove them from the connectors. drill a new hole the size of the new wire in the front or side of the case and feed the new wire in at that end. No extensive dismantling of the whole case, just the side the switch is on. Then, as suggested above, a short cord to an duplex outlet on the stand, where the 12 ga extension cord attaches.
It looks like you forgot a very critical first step : It appears that I will need to break down and buy the DW735 to try this- thanks for justifying the purchase
Good idea I did that to my 220 volt grizzly table saw
Genius! Starbond on a screw. Who knew?
Thanks for the comment (and nice email too)! Since you're in construction you might appreciate the ultimate use for CA glue on a screw: have you ever had to screw a bumper into the back of a pocket door frame to keep the door from going too far back into it? I use a couple 18" extensions for a phillips tip magnetic tip and use Starbond Medium Thick Flexible CA to stick the screw to that tip to make it possible to screw that bumper into the frame even when the pocket is 36" + deep.
I think for how much work it is to replace the cord compared to plugging into an extension I was a little confused as to why someone would bother. Then when I saw where you plugged it in I understood a little more. Not much point running a super short extension for that length if that’s where you regularly put your planer.
I live in a ‘240V’ world so running an extension cord isn’t so big of a deal, for a tool that consumes the same wattage the amperage is around half so extension cords don’t typically overheat, where I live we have pretty good safety standards which means a household 240v 10A cable can handle that sustained power draw for longer periods of time. However 15A cables aren’t too much more expensive and for serious woodworkers or commercial tradesmen they often pick up the heavy duty cables as matter of best practice. Still you wouldn’t want to run super long extension cables if a shorter cord will do the job but running a 10 metre cord instead of a 3 metre for a weekend of woodwork isn’t going to harm anything.
Personally I have a weird location of a power point (just one in the whole space) and have to use a long extension cord anyway for multiple hand tools. After seeing this video you have inspired to run the power cable along the roof and have it hanging down in the centre of my workspace, I tend to move my tools into the middle of the area anyway and having a hanging cord means I wont have anything to trip over as I walk around my work, then I can just hook it up on or over the rafters when i’m finished. Much safer than leaving it underneath my feet and work.
I’ve always been a fan of either changing cords to super short or super long. 6’ cords are always too short by at least 6”.
Another quality video. Thanks
Even though I have no application for this, I always pick up some nice tips. (CA glue on the screw)
BTW aren't you beyond the age to be dressing like your brother?
Awesome video. I would like a bit more detail on the end connectors that go into the machine though. That was kind of skipped over quickly, and something I'm not familiar with. did you buy those new connectors?
thanks
We could have also just upgraded the 6ft 14 AWG cable to a slightly longer (8-10ft) 12 AWG cable and couple it with a 12AWG extension cord when needed. This way you would still be able to wrap your cable around the built in cable holders on the back without issue.
IF the ability to wrap the cable around the holders was an issue important enough to put up with using that extension cord, that is. In over 2 decades of having and using this model planer I can't remember a single time when I used the cable holders... juss sayin' 😎
Pro tip,
Buy two cords so you can do the shop vac also!
There is a calculation for sizing an extension cord with the desired length based on voltage drop and the current draw from your machine (planer in the case).
There is such a chart but the whole purpose of this upgrade is to eliminate the need for adding and extension cord by, in effect, installing a permanently built in extension cord...
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thanks so much for posting this and showing exactly how to do it and explaining it so clearly.
I want to do this with my Dewalt table saw and now I know how to do it, thanks to you.
@@NextLevelCarpentry
I was referring to the permanently replaced cord. Using the chart for extension cord that came with your manual is properly OK, as manufactures tend to be on the conservative side. Or the advice from your electrician, perhaps.
But if you need a little more refinement and make sure what was replaced is suitable, a little calculation should suffice. Voltage drops above 3%, the motor well heat up, higher the drop higher the stress on the planer motor, the reason to keep the extension short or increase the wire size.
Second video of yours that I’ve watched on the Dewalt planer. You have helped me make my mind up to buy one. I am wondering about your stand. Is that something homemade or did you pick it up at a store? It seems like an awfully convenient and simple portable stand to me. I’d like to find one myself.
Glad to help out Bill... I've found the DW735 invaluable for both my 'day job' doing custom carpentry/millwork as well as for the RUclips videos you've seen and I'm confident you'll find it a good/great investment.
FWIW The stand you see here is one I custom built many years ago. If you have even entry level metal fab and welding skills you can make one like it using standard square tubing and hardware store wheels.
I was motivated to make this one because I pretty much hate any manufactured models for their complicated/inefficient design features and performance...
Best,
Matt
At precisely 7:40 you had a rare cordless planer. 🤪
LOL... I need you on my video production team Dave... I totally missed a perfect opportunity to add that zinger into the script!
I like the upgrade, however, I'd just weld some ears (or hooks) on the mobile cart (just under the fold down extension) to wind the cord on. Just a thought.
Hi I have been following you for a short while but love how nonsense you are. You have some good dry comments making your videos easy to watch and learn. I am intrigued by the Goldberg pliers and would like to look for a set. Would you please spell it correctly for me so I might find such a gem. Thank you
Hi Roger, the name 'Rube Goldberg' I assigned to those pliers is for their Golberg-esqe design and function, not an official product name. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rube_Goldberg_machine
They are Masterforce brand that I picked up at our local Menard's just because I thought they looked, well, like they were designed by Mr Goldberg and I bought 'em just because I could.
I chose them for the video mainly for their entertainment value but am pleased to say they were actually very helpful/useful. I can't find the same thing on Amazon but here's a link to them at Menard's:
www.menards.com/main/tools/hand-tools/pliers-plier-sets/masterforce-reg-15-triple-joint-needle-nose-pliers/68103/p-1503642864338-c-9156.htm?tid=-5948248917044559231&ipos=63
I don't see them as essential by any means but they're useful and fun to use!
Best,
Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry thank you so much
@@NextLevelCarpentry where did you happen to find those
@@MaddMaxxWoodWorks Check out the Menard's link... it's the only place I've seen 'em and seems like the only place that carries them...
@@NextLevelCarpentry thank you so much
Hello Matt, Frank here, liked your video a lot, very necessary for sure. How can I get that same stand you show on the video. Thanks again Matt☝️😎
Well me personally I cannot stand even the 6-ft cord on most tools I would much rather have a short stubby so the tool itself is easier to put away takes up less space in the place you put it away in and then I have several extension cords at several different lengths 10 footer 15 footer 25 footer 50 footer and 100 footer which means I can go as far or as short as I would like to so instead of rolling up 10 6 ft cords around my tools I just unplug my tool put it in the Box and then roll my extension cords up put them in a bucket done so much faster and easier it's kind of like having a battery tool with constant power
Most household receptacles use 12/2 or 12/3 Romex depending on voltage. And 14-2 Romex for lighting. However using those power bars that you have installed along your wall; ads resistance to whatever you're plugging into it because most of those power bars are using the smaller 14 gauge wire. I would always rather have more capacity than I need than adding a restriction point such as those power bars. If it were me; every single corded power tool would be upgraded to 12 gauge and all of my power bars would be upgraded to 12 gauge as well possibly even 10 if I plan to have a lot of things plugged into that power bar so that there's no restriction. This way you never have to worry about an electrical pinch point. The other thing I don't like about those power bars is that they typically have six to eight plugs on them. Now let's just say you have all of those plugs utilized with high power equipment. Then you could be overdrawing your power bar through an electronic pinch point which still gives you a risk of a fire. So the upgrade to more heavy duty power bars would be another thing I would do. That or just stop plugging high power machinery into a power bar; and rather directly into the wall where and when you can. Think of your power bar in terms of car audio. If you look up something called the Big Three upgrade; it improves electrical throughout the entire car because the standard cables are upgraded from The standard 12 gauge or possibly even 14 gauge wires all the way up to a zero gauge. The distribution blocks in such an electrical setup also have increased wire size to carry more current more efficiently. So think of your power bar as a large distribution block. The more power you have running through that distribution block without upgrading the wire; produces electrical resistance which results in heat and inefficient power handling. Hell I would even consider inline fusing in front of the power bar to protect the rest of your electrical system in the home. Sometimes breakers aren't enough. I've seen breakers go bad from power overdraw and yet they did not trip causing wires inside of the wall to also heat up and the possibility of fire in the walls or at the electrical box. Now with all that said. You're more than likely just fine, I'm talking worst case scenario here if you have a lot of stuff plugged into that power bar. But it's always better to be over prepared than under
On North American 120 Volt wiring, most often then not you'll find 14 gauge everywhere for 15 amp outlets. I'm not even sure they always upgrade to 12 gauge (even if required) when they put 20 amp outlets. And there are fast trip and slow trip breakers, and you could be pulling wayyy above 20 amps through 14 gauge before it trips. There is a Mathias Wandel video testing the power draw of his power tools and amperage to trip breakers, this Planer pulled upwards of 600 amps for a short time.
Surprised you do not have a Wixey gauge on your machine. Love mine.
Matt, could you share info on the springy earplugs and those nifty magnetic glasses you use?
Absolutely!
Here's the springy earplugs:
www.amazon.com/dp/B000LNKDEE/?ref=idea_lv_dp_
I don't love earplugs in general but these are the best and only ones I use
The magnetic glasses are called Clic Readers:
www.amazon.com/dp/B01AK73JKK/?ref=idea_lv_dp_
I've got several pairs in the shop and my truck and don't go a day without 'em...
Best,
Matt
12AWG retractable cord reel for more versatility and no warranty worries.
If your worried about fine dust and electrical fires. You could try heat shrink tubing.
Not so worried about fire danger but the idea of heat shrink tubing does satisfy an inclination towards satisfying results...
@@NextLevelCarpentry neat and tidy is good. Put in on Chips some day do list. :p
@@lucidmoses Poor guy... you should SEE his 'to do list' already! 😉🤣🤣
I have one of these machines and they are fantastic. Can you sharpen the three cutting knives?
I'm sure you 'can' sharpen the blades but at greater expense and less accuracy than buying and flipping the double edged factory blades IMHO.
Best,
Matt
As always good video. I do have a question why haven't you upgraded to a helical cutter head? Cost?
I'm answering this because so many viewers refer to helical cutter heads in their comments on this video.
For starters I can tell you that cost of a helical head has nothing to do with it but my statement that I don't see a helical cutterhead in a DW735 thickness planer as an upgrade for my purposes, requirements and expectations has everything to do with cost: cost of labor, that is.
For anyone interested, my reasoning and explanation are laid out pretty well in this video at this timestamp:
ruclips.net/video/A6muiJ42Y2I/видео.html
Opinions about which is "best", straight or helical, seem to get very emotional very quickly which, to me, is rather entertaining because the main thing that matters to me is the quality of the finished product and how much work/time/cost is involved in achieving the results I'm hired to produce.
There are a lot of factors involved which make one 'better' than the other for different users so my reply isn't meant to tell others what's right or wrong, merely what I see as best for me.
Best,
Matt
Buying the right gauge extension cord is probably the most economical way to get a good cord with a plug for replacement on power tools.
For sure!
Great video, where did you get your "Rube Goldberg" pliers? LOL!!!!!!!
This is where I got mine... and it seems to be the only source I can find:
www.menards.com/main/tools/hand-tools/pliers-plier-sets/c-9156.htm?searchTermToCategory=needlenose%20pliers&searchString=Masterforce&tid=-1944450932820624311&page=2
I always go at least a #10 wire, years of being a commercial electrician and seeing voltage drop even over short distances cause issues taught me to always up size.
Even my extension cords are custom made #8 wire specially the fifty foot ones that I attach a quad plug box to the end.
As for the companies making these tools, they should never be using #14 wire, it's not even code legal to use in a house due to such a weak load capacity and being suited for a max of 15 amps.
If you're going to upgrade the chords to your power tools might as well do it right and just run #10. You won't get any voltage or amperage drops under most circumstances even when things heat up that can affect your machine. That's just me though, #12 is fine for most uses but heavy draw machines that run a lot will certainly benefit from going one size up.
What's the name of those needle nose pliers I've been looking for a pair or can you please provide a link also thanks for the content I love your channel keep up the good work
This is where I got mine and also the only place I've found/seen 'em:
www.menards.com/main/tools/hand-tools/pliers-plier-sets/masterforce-reg-15-triple-joint-needle-nose-pliers/68103/p-1503642864338-c-9156.htm?tid=4551512161206433276&ipos=1
Best,
Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry great thanks Matt your the best I'm also looking forward to some more great videos be safe
George......
"Although my memory's really good, it's kind of short"...oh how i can relate lol...and I haven't watched any of your videos in a little while. but you seem to have gained access to a Thesaurus and use it quite a bit. I'm curious why ?
It happened when I tried to find another word for thesaurus but didn't know where to look it up😉🤣
My question relates to your video "how to install a newel post without wobble". Do you think your threaded rod method would work in reverse? i.e. installing the threaded rod 10" or so into the bottom of a solid newel and passing the rod through a hole in the floor and tightening it from below with a washer and nut? Sorry about the off topic comment, thanks in advance.
I see no reason that wouldn't be equally strong and, in some situations quicker and more versatile, if you've got the luxury of that level of access underneath. (I'm seldom that lucky😉) The only difficulty I foresee is getting the finished post aligned, oriented and plumb but an assistant on the top side could easily handle that.
Thank you for video. My question is: Why not just use a fatter more robust extension cord and plug the existing cord the planet comes with into it? Seems like just using what you spliced as an extension cord may be a quicker and less hassle fix.
My goal was for a cleaner, more functional, more efficient solution to the short stock cord issue.
Part of a meaningful upgrade, IMHO, is that while an extension cord solves the length problem, it only exacerbates the existing dysfunctional problem of the short cord. "Quicker" is only a short term solution while the relative little time it takes to actually switch to a longer cord (when not shooting/producing video of the process) starts paying efficiency dividends immediately and continues to pay them generously for the life of the tool. Plugging in a cord, although faster in the short run, continues to be an annoyance that compounds over time. This is all 'just me' though and I don't insist to anyone that I'm right and they're wrong...😎
Now I have to change out several cords on various tools. Cannot un-learn that bit about restricting current to the motor.
A proper extension cord won't necessarily restrict current to the motor to any significant level but having a 'built in extension cord' like this does make it simpler/cleaner in a static shop environment IMHO. I think you'll like the configuration if you end up changing out a few cords though. FWIW I put huge long cords on both my tablesaw and jointer years ago for the same reason making it kind of odd that I waited so long to 'upgrade' this planer...
Best,
Matt
Will you be doing any more project videos here, or are they exclusive to Patreon supporters now?
I’d use SOOW
That DeWalt had flexible cord, unlike Many power tools, these days.
I, Really, Hate the hard plastic Chinese cords, on most tools and replace
them, every chance I get, with 14/3 or 12/3. (the larger whenever possible)
Next, perhaps an upgrade of the planer blades to helical? Question: if the power to switch is 12AWG wire, is it still 14AWG to the motor?
It is, but due to the shorter length (or rather: the same length as before) it doesn't really matter. It's all about resistance, and both the size of the wire and its length matter. If the length stays the same, there's no need to change its size.
Would placing a junction box on the stand an splicing in the cord from the planer to the new longer one be easier.
Easier? As a matter of opinion, it would be about equal IMHO. As far as function and 'elegance' not even close... again IMHO. The main thing I didn't like with the original cord is that it was annoyingly short for my needs and well worth any extra effort/difficulty to remedy but only if other features of 'clean design' weren't downgraded. It's not right or wrong, mind you, but almost entirely personal preference. 😎
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thank you for your reply. I was thinking of other person who might not to take apart the planer to add the extra length of cord.
Overall quality work, however, doesn’t the potential gain from increased wire gauge get nullified by the lower gauge wire/cord going to the motor from the switch?
No. Open any power tool and you will see the same thing.
Even the 14 gauge cord the DeWalt came with, is much larger
than the wires inside.
No. That wire is stock and part of the design of the machine. The only mod made was between the wall outlet & the switch, and he covered his bases by going with a #12 due to the added length.
@@markarita3 gotcha. Didn’t consider the added length.
@@william3954 He explains it at 1:08. With electricity, the longer you go - the bigger the cable needs to be due to voltage drop. You do not want to rob an electrical motor of its needed supply. This is why in manuals (for certain tools) it'll state what gauge of wire needed for the length of extension cord used, should the need arise. Contractor's will even have 100' 10 gauge cords. Expensive stuff, but cheaper than having to replace the tool(s)! Cheers.
I also have a DeWalt Fitness planer where did you get your cart for it I like that
Watch to the end of the end of the end.
Considering the size of my belly, I'd love to have a fitness planer, but I doubt they exist. I think you meant "thickness" planer.
@@anwalt693 I noticed that typo too... good for two chuckles now! 🤣🤣
Thank you for sharing your idea, I am wondering how loud the machine is? Is it ok to use it in a garage without disturbing neighbours?
It's loud but it depends on your neighbors and whether you have Karens and Kens waiting to let you have it.
There are a variety of videos on yt with varying results, but an average consensus seems to be at around 100 decibels. My neighbors ( typical suburban neighborhood)let me know they don't like it ,I have no intentions of moving so I am in the process of replacing it with one that has an induction motor and a helical cutter head, somewheres in the 80- 90 decibel range.
Close the garage door.?
If you need to use it, you need to use it.
@@zapa1pnt the door is closed, it is a decent thickness planer but it is stupid loud, goes with the territory of being straight knife with a universal motor
@@gregroschat8425: Well, I was being a bit facetious, about the door
but serious, about "If you need to use it, you need to use it."
I've got a few corded DeWalt tools over here in the UK and one thing that always sticks out is the pathetic length of the cords.
Hey chip, I’m very interested in making one of those stands for my thickness planer I just bought one. Would you be able give me the specs on the stand or a couple of pitches from different positions? I would much appreciate it. Thank you very much for your videos.
Do you have the capability of steel fabrication and welding?
@@NextLevelCarpentry yes
@@philipguarnieri2822 Ok, good. BTW I originally designed/built the stand you see in this video for a DW734 planer and just adapted it for use with the DW735 when I upgraded. Because of that, I would alter dimensions of the stand I'm using for a better fit with the larger footprint of the DW735. That said, I can take couple of pictures of the stand and post them on Pinterest. If you're able to view those photos, I can send you a few key dimensions like height, width and angles to guide you when you build one for your new planer...
Ken that would be perfect. Thank you very much. Have a good weekend.
Hey Philip, send me an email at matt@nextlevelcarpentry.shop and I'll send you a drawing...
Best,
Matt
what about the other cord that's coming from the motor to the switch ?
So you made on extra EXTENTION CORD out of the cord you took off the PLaner??
Frank here, oops should have waited till the end of the end. Bye for now☝️😎
Hate it when that happens! 😉
😎
What is the little yellow cable attached to the back of the case near the right side cord hanger that is screwed into the case and has an electrical connector on the end?
That's a grounding cable used to discharge static electricity from the PVC pipes on the chip ejection exhaust piping.
@@NextLevelCarpentry Replaced my cord just as you did, and planer works fine, but the lighted male plug at the end of the cord doesn't light up. Any thoughts as to why not. Planer is getting power and works.
The longer cord is pretty sweet, don't you think?
FWIW The male end on my cord doesn't light up either... I actually don't think it ever did. I think they're designed so just the female end lights up so you can see if the whole cord is working when you go to plug a tool into it. Do you have any way of checking yours out to see if it lit up in the first place?
I wonder do you hire two or five men to clean your shop? How possible always that be so clean?
Funny! I only WISH there was someone other than moi to clean up the mess I make constantly!
I guess it's just good work habit to give the shop a once over after any work session... my state of mind directly reflects the amount of mess/clutter in whatever space I'm working in. In case this makes you feel bad you can find consolation in the fact that it's easier to clean up the camera's field of view than the whole shop😉. Consider the fact that you can't see what I don't choose to show and you'd probably find comfort in imagining the mess that's out of frame at times.😎
Where did you get the cart for your planer?
I anticipated your question and actually answered it at the end of the end of this video so check it out😎
Why not just use a 10 gauge extension cord? Thank you for the videos.
Wondering why you didnt go ahead and swap out the wire from the switch to the motor while you were at it. Probably wouldn't have as much of a difference as upgrading the long strength of wire but still...
This upgrade was to allow positioning the planer farther from outlets, not to get more power to the motor since power supply has never been an issue...
The electrical expertise in these comments is way over my head. I have this same planer and will need to use an extension cord. Is 12 gauge needed for this machine or will 14 suffice for short runs of 25 feet or less?
I know what you mean about some of the comments, Mark,
because they have become rather technical. I don't have technical knowledge but from years working with this sort of equipment on job sites and elsewhere I think bigger is always better when it comes to extension cords. If you're doing a couple of boards on a job site and all you have is a 14 gauge cord I'm sure you can plane them without an issue. If you're getting set up to do a fair amount of work with the machine on a regular basis then I would go for the 12 gauge cord because it will be healthier for your motor and extend its life expectancy IMHO.
Hope that helps...