3 Key Steps To Protect your Car (Classic Car) For Winter Driving
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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2023
- Driving a car in winter can be hard on the components and the salt on the roads can corrode and rust the chassis. Especially on modern classics that are still likely to be used as daily drivers.There are some key things you can do to protect your car while you use it in winter. Use a under-seal on the chassis, make sure brake fluid is fresh, wax wheel and bodywork and clean regularly.
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Canada here. Such a cute "winter" prep, Jack. Bless your little heart! 😁 Here in the Glorious People's Republic of Canuckistan, there is only one option for preparing anything you consider a classic: put it away in the garage until Spring! But we do an amped-up version of your prep for our daily drivers, if we want them to last more than a few years. Those of us that are serious about it have an annual treatment with something like Krown Rustproofing. It is a mostly transparent product that will be sprayed quite heavily onto and into the chassis and structural members, doors, boot lid etc, by a crew of professionals. Cost is around $140 CDN per year (90 quid, or so?). No sense waxing our alloy wheels, as they will have been replaced with dedicated winter tires, on steel wheels, to be swapped back in Spring. Alloy wheels that go through the winter salt would corrode to chalk, and will develop slow leaks around the bead area. And even with all of this, winter use is incredibly hard on any car you care about. I like to describe it as spending 8 months a year lavishing our cars with loving care, and then 4 months beating them with sticks (snow brushes). Cheers from the Great White North.
Hi Jack, forget the car reviews. This is what I started watching your channel for. Hands on.
Well done Jack, this was spot on. Mid West USA here, on a quiet night you can hear the cars rusting. Ive used fluid film, seems to work well and hangs in there, NEVER use an undercoating, any brand ends up having rust hidden underneath. I purposely installed an outdoor hot water spigot on my house to rinse the underside of the car, then I am able to park all my cars inside. I never drive any of my classics in winter.
Thanks Jack, good to get a layer of protection on the Pug! Without going too H&S, please wear safety eyewear when spraying chemicals or brushing off! Enjoy the 306! 🙏🙏
Great video Jack. I would advise wearing a mask and googles when doing both operations, i.e. removing rust and spraying rust-prevention fluids. (gloves too!)
Me and my Dad used to paint the underside of the car with old engine oil. This was based on the bits of the chassis with oil fumes from the engine never seemed to rust.
Thanks, this is really great! - Only thing I'd add would be the use of goggles! Also, ACF50 works great as a protective undercoating that needs topping up
Building a new house at the moment, we've built in an inspection pit in the 'Lancia room'. Can see myself spending a lot of time here on the underside. After nearly 8 years in a city apartment completely relying on a mechanic this sill be a godsend. Thanks Jack for this video, you are a treasure.
Interestingly enough, I enjoyed watching this. Living in southern California, this is getting ready for winter is something I never think about.
Great video Jack. I would also add a very little discussed thing and that is using winter tyres. Normal summer tyres just don't give the grip and traction when used in temps below around 3 degC due to the rubber compound and tread pattern. The rubber gets harder when it's cold which doesn't give grip and the tread block pattern is too solid. Winter tyres have a softer compound rubber which stays softer in cold temps. Also the winter tyres have a more open tread pattern and small cuts in the blocks which allow the tread blocks to flex and move more which generates a tiny amount of heat and grip. Think of it as lots of little tread blocks all individually searching for grip. Due to the open tread they also work well on snow. The difference in using winter tyres when it's snowy and icy or just v cold is huge. We would have far less winter accidents in the UK if everyone used winter tyres as they do in Germany and Sweden etc. There are of course logistical constraints of cost and with switching over tyres or having a spare set of wheels with the winter tyres mounted on to change over (this is the best idea). Give it a try it's well worth it and loads safer.
Exactly the stuff I use! Glad to see I'm in good company.
Nice video, Jack. It all makes good sense. I do usually lower my tire pressures maybe 5 psi below recommended if I’m driving on snow. It seems to improve traction.
Putting the spare wheel in a heavy-duty garbage bag (bin-liner) would help protect it, and make any wheel-chanigng exercise less grubby.
I used Lanoguard on my Saab 9000. I too warmed it up in the sink for an hour before spraying. I used a mask and some goggles as it absolutely stinks!. I used the whole 2L bottle doing all the arches as well and put it on pretty thick. The car was left for about 4 days before i used it on the road and i noticed that it did "Set" to a thick Waxy type substance. I have since washed the arches out with a jetwash and it gives them a hydrophobic property where the water is just reflected. We will see how it wears. But at £65 for 2L its not a bad price to re-do the car every 2yrs. A small price to protect a classic.
I have a tip, for the cleanest clearest windows on your car 🚗 use NEWSPAPER 📰, it's an ink thing, crush/scrunch a few pages together type deal, then make a smooth pad and warm water after you have shampooed everything 🤟 deep blue inky sheen looks MINT
Would be interesting to see in a few weeks/months to find out what protection is left on the car, or whether a few drives through the rain washes it off.
Thanks for a much needed video regarding this issue Jack. Salt has prevented so many accidents and so much loss of productivity, but there IS a downside!
I've used a mixture of linseed oil & paint thinner for undercoating. I thinned the oil enough to use it in a spray gun, and gave the entire underside a liberal coating, re-applied every year or two. Seems to work here in southern Ontario where salt is ever present from November to April.
Excellent advice and great to see how you go about protecting the car Jack 👍
I’ve just had all my suspension bits done underneath. My friend used bilt hammer hydrate 80 rust conversion followed by lanoguard 48 hours later. Defo reassuring to know underneath is treated and protected.