How to Install the Delta® MultiChoice® R10000 Universal Rough Valve with Supply Stops
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- Опубликовано: 19 май 2024
- Follow along as Mike walks through how to install the Delta® MultiChoice® R10000 Universal Valve with Supply Stops - R10000-UNWS. (Note that this video will work for any version of a Delta® R10000 with Supply Stops, the steps will be generally the same.) See our supply list and video shortcuts below to make installing even easier.
You'll Need:
- Screwdriver
- 1/2" - 3/4" Screws
- Wrench
- Tape Measure
- Pencil
- Safety Glasses
- 4-6' Level
- Pipe
- 90° Elbow
- Straps
- Caps
Steps:
0:00 - Intro
2:51 - Determine location of tub spout, rough valve and showerhead
6:32 - Install stringer boards
8:25 - Install rough valve
9:58 - Pressure test
Installing a R11000? Check out this video: How to Install the Delta® R11000 3&6 Setting Diverter Rough - • How to Install the Del... 
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Can't believe there's not a single video on the internet that actually explains valve depth
It is almost comical how these videos omit the one thing that isn't obvious. This guy quickly mentions the topic of the relation of valve depth and what may be the users wall finish but doesn't actually illustrate any physical reference. It would have been so easy for them to show where the valve needs to be in relation to various surfaces instead of pointing out obvious things like which way is up. the word "UP" is molded into the part!
True. what I was looking for also.
Same here! I can read the "UP" word just fine. Tell me about depth, and how much of the valve needs to be in the shower area (after tiling) in order to attach the trim correctly (without adjustments after the fact).
This was very helpful, thanks for posting this
We're happy we could help out! ❤️
Nicely done. Very helpful.
Happy to help, Ken!
Does the R10000-UNBX work with the delta classic 500 series shower kit??
Where did you come up with the .25" depth for direct to stud surround? Is it the distance of the material and the gasket for the delta 500?
Super
Please help! Issue with water not going to the handheld shower on a new build. Plumber installed a tub with a T14451 single function pressure balanced tub and shower and handheld shower Delta 51140. They used a Delta R1000-UNWS rough in, a Delta T11851 diverter and Delta R11000 rough-in 3 function and 6 function diverter trim. They are trying to tell us that the plumbing supply company ordered the wrong diverter but from what I researched and from watching your 2 videos, it seems to be the correct one. Why do you think the water is not coming out of the handheld? When we pull up the tub spout diverter, nothing comes out anywhere until we turn the handle on the diverter valve trim(T11851) and then the shower head only works.
What if you want to cut a round whole instead of square for the valve opening?
@delta I have a setup that includes a Shower, handheld and tub spout w/ builtin diverter...I ordered the Trinsic 17-series w/ 3-position diverter (T27859-CZ). Is this the correct application for my setup or should I be utilizing the 6-position? Thanks!
Hi John, The Delta T27859-CZ 3-position diverter has two individual positions and one shared for the showerhead and hand shower. A 6-position would be used for three shower features.
We would not recommend using this shower trim with a tub spout because the R22000 valve does not have a tub outlet. Connecting a tub spout to a shower outlet or diverter will reduce the flow rate and take longer to fill a tub.
Our valve trims without an integrated diverter can be installed with an R10000 valve that does have a tub outlet. For example, using a T17059 tub and shower valve trim with T11859 3-position diverter trim.
-Bryan
I failed math. So confused lol
Im going to install this valve and my tile guy says the finish wall will be 1 1/4 inch. I dont know how to set the right measurements. Smh
All same setup but when I turn my water main on water leaks from shower spout like it is running
How do you access it from the back if you use a stringer board? Rather than mess up any tile to change I would prefer back access. Can it be suspended?
No, you cannot leave the rough valve hanging on the water line without tie it to the stringer board. If you can access in the back of the rough valve from the other side of the wall (interior wall), you can cut the spring board off to do any valve replacement and reintall the spring board accordingly.
Am I seeing that they didn’t use the pipe thread but just sweat the pipe to the valve? Is this code?
That wraps it up? How do you adjust those friggen STOPS???
Hello Arthur, Thanks for reaching out! A good rule of thumb is 1/4 to a 1/2 turn on each stop should do it! -Kelley
I found that there is a small white plastic valve in the box. Can you tell me where it is used for ?
Is it more like a plug? White, cylindrical in shape with O-rings on the end?
@@matthewwillard7471 Yes
It's a little hard to tell in the video but is the stringer board you used for the rough valve only 1 inch thick because I think your calculation said it could only be 1 inch.
Yeah you can see he ripped the 2x4 down so it was only 1'' thick. When he says he made the stringers out of "scrapped 2x4's" he's brushing over the fact he ripped that, which seems like an obvious thing to mention but oh well.
I have all delta products. R10000 rough valve does not work with the 500 series tub or shower surround if your using a 2x4 stringer. your gonna have to use a 1x4, not the best setup. Reconsider this valve when using a delta surround.
They should have designed it for 1 1/2" blocking.
So how about the depth pendejo? Some people will use backer board, some will use a fiberglass wall some will use thick tiles etc. Depth??????
He said plaster guard flush with finish surface. 6:54
Delta: call a professional Me: Ok, well I dont need to watch your video then. Gee thanks for that brilliant piece of advice.
What are supply stops?
Valve behind the trim to turn off water flow if need to change cartridge
Wish you would have slowed-down when calculating the depth for the rough valve! You talked too fast and your verbal measurements are confusing. And what is the 1/4" distance you speak of? Is it your wallboard thickness or your cement board? And by noticing the questions others have asked that go unanswered, it looks like no one from Delta is monitoring this site to help the DIY's.
Seeing as how this is the top comment, to help out my fellow DIYers: The 1/4" is what he's referring to a wall-set, its a tub surround made out of fiberglass and comes in 3 pieces, usually. If you're installing a tile backerboard, thinset and tile, then your instinct is correct, you need to install the valve even closer to you than he did for the wall-set. From the face of your stringer board, you want it 2.75in to your best estimate of where the face of your tile will be. There's forgiveness to this, so don't sweat it if its not exact as you are tiling. I'm not sure what that figure is, maybe 3/16 of an inch.
I agree.. the most important part.. he fumbled through it....
@@seanryan6306- thx for posting more info!
The distance between the height of the valve and spout should not be more than 11 inches!!!!!!! he says max is 18 inches....I listened to this guideline and now have water siphoning issue.
The installation instructions that came with my units says NO LESS than 8" and NO MORE than 18" and only with a copper tub drop -no PEX.
I had to install a positive stop tub spout to fix the issue. Reduce the water drip to a very few drops which I can live with. I am lucky enough it worked.
@@dsburdette - that's what my Delta kit states, as well - but I believe that might be only if you DON"T use a drop ear elbow to mount the tub spout (in other words, the rigidity of stainless steel or iron pipe with an elbow for the tub spout would offer more stability - but if you install a stringer and a drop ear elbow, that problem is alleviated.. as least, that what most plumbers in my area now do, using PEX for the tub spout AND the shower head riser)...
I'm just at a loss as to what open size I need to cut in my existing tub surround, as I'm installing from the back: Does it need to be the same square size as the black plastic plaster guard, or a round opening to accommodate the trim ring, and if the latter - what diameter?
That was some f____ up explanation on the valve. Like speaking Chinese. It wat the most important part for me . I'LL give up a solid F.
This is a lousy tutorial. Tell me about depth, and how much of the valve needs to be in the shower area - after tiling - in order to attach the trim correctly (without adjustments after the fact). I'm guessing most people can figure out which way is up.
This guy talks WAY TOO FAST! Why make an instruction video of your product when half the country can't understand this guy? Probably to make it seem like it takes less time to the average diy(er). Many have never installed one of these before and hopefully no one has gotten their tile on only to find out it's set too deep or too forward bc of this guy.
Hopefully any DIY'er who has the skills and is smart enough to undertake this job is also smart enough to know how use the speed control setting in RUclips and slow down the video. As far as setting the valve to far forward or deep... it happens all the time... even professional plumbers can screw it up. Just search RUclips for "Shower Valve Set Too Deep!!! How to fix"