To be honest. I really (and I mean really) like your layout. It got so much character and isnt overloaded with useless buildings. It really has the most essential buildings. You did an amazing job!
What wonderful feedback, thank you so kindly. I believe there's 5 essential buildings a layout should have (if there is a town scene).... 1. A railway station... 2. An engine shed/depot... 3. A pub... 4. A grocery store... 5. A church
A very interesting video. I find that if you push the cleaning car rather than pull it behind the locomotive you get a better result. For a start the locomotive is not picking up grime off the track because you have the cleaning wagon in front of the locomotive. Cheers Greg
I did intend to push the cleaning wagon around for the exact reasons you mentioned, but there is one particular point in my trackwork that the wagon does not like when being pushed and derails, hence towing the wagon. However, it is a section of track that's scheduled for realignment at some point.
The Inox MX3 is more like a synthetic ATF. Not like WD40(water displacment) or CRC 2-26(electrical contact cleaner). I run Kato Unitrack H0 on the floor & was amazed at how good Inox MX3 was at reducing cleaning frequency. Don't get me wrong. I still vacuum with the TOMEX/DAPOL vacuum car to remove dusty crud. Haven't had to pick up the Roco 10002 track rubber since my Inox MX3 application. I too also tried the floor protectors on a track cleaning car & found some of the fibres came loose that could potentially find there way into locomotive gear trains. So I scrapped that idea for a slither of felt lined denim. Nice & slippery.
Hi Philip, thank you so kindly for your very informative feedback, and extremely grateful you are able to clarify what it is about the Inox that makes it suitable for loco running reliability. I'm curious to know about the felt lined denim you mention, where can this be found or purchase from?
@@StationRoadModelRailway Fortunately I found mine in the rag bin at work. I only found a piece approx 30cm². Cut it into strips. Must of come from some designer jeans.
Very informative and well presented video as usual. Just to give a heads up on the method I use and in my case it is very reliable. I very rarely actually clean my track, it is usually only after painting or ballasting the track. What I do is do a light pass over the track with a 2b graphite stick maybe once every six months. The majority of the black residue you find on the track is created by the minute sparks created as the wheels pass over the tack, the graphite reduces the electrical resistance between track and wheel, give it a try you will be surprised. Cheers Mike
I was using the chair foot pads to apply wd-40, goo-gone or crc electronic cleaner on my layout in 1972 and on my current layout. I also use the back - textured - side of a scrap piece of masonite or hard board to do the main cleaning. I also have a box car that can carry either the pad or masonite to clean the track while being pulled by a loco. Great advice. Thanks for sharing and stay well.
As a kid in the sixties I had an old Triang cleaning wagon that had a felt pad that I used to soak with methylated spirit, track was steel and it worked really well. Haven't tried it on the nickel silver rail, your vid has reminded me of it! Cheers Julian
Hi, I liked your original idea, I think part of the problem with the Peco track rubber is people don't use them properly, you should never scrub away at the track, but instead use virtually no downward pressure and just glide the rubber over the track, if you see bits coming off then you are pressing way too hard! Periodically give the rubber a wipe over with a cloth and some IPA to clean it then off you go again. The very best and safest way to clean track is to use the rubber on occasions, use a polishing pad like your original idea and between this use IPA (Isopropyl alcohol ) on a cloth or with the pad you came up with, there are custom made cleaning wands by Woodland scenics I think which are very good for tight spots. The very last thing you want to do is apply anything like WD40 to your rails! it will attack some plastics and is not designed as an electrical cleaner. It will probably cause wheel slip and allow a build up of dirt later as it will remain sticky for some time. WD40 is great for what it's designed for, water displacement, automotive and garden tools etc. Of course, you are free to do what you want :)
Just like there are many metals, there are many plastics that are very different from one another. Overall, plastics can be divided into two basic groups: Crystalline: Polypropylene, Polyethylene, Polyester (all types), Nylon Amorphous: Polycarbonate, Styrenics (including ABS), PVC The main ingredient in WD-40 is a light kerosene-like mineral oil, which is hydrocarbon based. Amorphous plastics and hydrocarbons don’t play well together: hydrocarbons will attack the chemical structure of amorphous plastics, breaking them down - essentially trying to “melt” them. In particular, Polycarbonate (PC) and Polystrene (PS). they are two named plastics on the WD-40 “do not use on these” list. Crystalline materials are unaffected by the hydrocarbons in WD-40, you can spray them as much as you wish. (from another site)
Thanks for your informative video clips. I use this method now. I used WD40 first but it made the track very slippery one of my locos wouldn't move at all. It just sat there spinning the wheels. I have now switched to Innox and this is fine with an all wheel drive loco, it can move reliably at a scale walking pace, but my old Lima struggles up a 2% incline with more than one wagon/coach. (It has very worn wheels).
Standard WD40 is basically a water repellent and lubricant so will leave slippery rails, they also produce a very good product WD40 contact cleaner that does not leave a slippery residue and is also plastic safe Mike
Thanks Mike for this handy info. There a number of Inox equivalents but it's a case of finding the right type. Fishplate Films provides detail on what the ingredients should contain and it shouldn't contain too.
@@StationRoadModelRailway WD40 in Europe is a penetrative water repelling OIL, it would cause slipping, collect dirt and do no good for electrical conductivity as it is a mineral oil and an insulator! The company WD40 may well sell other products such as contact cleaners, not to be mixed up! CRC 2-26 in USA and Inox in Aus are contact cleaners with conductive additives.
Rewatching your videos and still loving your techniques! I cannot for the life of me, even now, find thin double sided tape :D Great adaptation and I may use this on my layout.
Hi Julian i watched the fishplate guy a while ago and used a version of wd40 so relying on electrical conductivity, but as you said it also removes dirt from your rails too, haven't needed to clean track since ,but one thing i do disagree with fishplate guy the track rubber he was using was awful , hornby do a very good rubber which doesn't disintegrate on contact with the track , i also clean my locos wheels with the same stuff by soaking a paper cloth across the rails by lightly holding loco half on cloth and half on rails and switching around todo other bogie as you said locos just seem to run better, thanks for another excellent video...........tony
Hi Tony, thanks for your feedback and interesting info, I like the sound of the wheel cleaning method you mentioned, so think I'll give that a go, much appreciated.
I have been using CRC 2-26, which is an equivalent of Inox. The last time I applied it to my N scale layout was back in March, and have not had a problem since then. I run trains once or twice a week, so the rails do get a reasonable amount of use, but prior to using the product, I was needing to clean the rails every couple of weeks. I am still adding scenery to the layout. There are still sections that are getting rails painted and ballast applied, but after doing the work, I give the rails a rub with the Peco track rubber to clean off the dried glue, then give a quick burnish with a steel washer, and then run the CRC on the track with a cloth. Then is it is back to faultless train running. I should also state that I live right on the coast here in Australia, so salty air is quite common - just more to affect the oxidation of the rails. Some friends, who put me onto CRC, only clean their tracks every 6 months or so in similar environments. They run O, HO and N, so quite a mix, and all with no issues.
Hi Eric, that is some really informative and great feedback. I'm curious about the steel washer process, is it any kind of steel washer or something more specific that you use?
@@StationRoadModelRailway Nothing special - just an old washer that I had in my toolbox. I cannot remember where I picked up the idea, but it was about ensuring that there were no scratches on the track that could then catch dirt. After posting my comment, I later remembered that one of my friends uses a block of cork to apply his CRC, so your idea of using the pads is a great enhancement. I might even suggest that you just apply the Inox to your balsa pad, but I remember that my friend that uses the cork pad reapplies every couple of metres. I think that your pad idea is a great solution. Will be very interested in how it performs over a long period.
Hi.... Good effort..... Thanks for the felt pad application. method.At present after all sorts of 'cloth' type I settled on thin leather, (Kid leather?), as most cloths defrag and get in loco mechs etc. As for oil based cleaning liquids after lots of testing etc I totally reject the CRC's, WD40 etc. Treating gradients with this stuff worked great for start as far as increasing traction but it did not last long before the track got that grey buildup making the track dirty and electrically not the best, traction also gradually deteriorated. The solution for me was a water/meths/detergent mix and this really does keep my track clean and cleaning is not needed that often. Traction/electrics on grades remains 100% at all times. My suggestion is give this a try. Cleaning solution: 75% water/25% meths/1-2 drops household detergent.
Thank you for your very informative feedback/comments. I'll definitely keep your solutions in mind. In some respects, based on the feedback I've been getting, it would seem tracking cleaning methods (and their success or failure) might be dependent on the type of layout (gradients, curves, locos, etc) and possible even the environment the layout is in (dusty loft, cold garage, high humidity, etc).
A few added points. With using WD40 etc the loco 'traction' does not increase on grades. it's the wheel flanges of that pick up the 'oil' and lubricate reducing the load friction. This breaks down fairly quickly and general answer is to restore things with WD40 etc. In time the 'gunge' just builds up and up! The idea is to get back to a clean track. Quick method is use of kero giving a though dry off so as no 'grey' deposit shows on a finger wipe. Trains should perform 100% for extended time but a going over with a cleaning wagon with a dry balsa pad from time to time is good practice. From time to time I go over with a 'wet' balsa pad and my water/meths.detergent as a sort of wash, (dishwashing if you like), this removes any stubborn 'grey' spots and then do a dry balsa clean run. (If one does not dry off any liquid then the grey gunge builds back up quickly. My theory is that the 'grey' residue is produced by a arching reaction at molcular level as loco wheels pick up the power from the track. Totally dry clean track is the aim but one factor that I'm sure could play a part is humidity, to what extent I don't really know. My 'theory' on track rubbers is that they do clean track but can put micro scratches on the track which will fill with that grey stuff so should be used sparingly and gently. My layout has a double spiral complex with 1in33 grades so my 'experiments' have therefore more issues to deal with in this track cleaning topic than any 'flat' layout. Cheers.
Smooth operator! Briliant! Regards from Brazil! Printing paper is very abrasive. Try, for once, rub a piece of your usual A4 on your rails. I used to do this in computer contacts. Worked pretty well.
Hi mate another great video great information I have built two of your tracks claning wagons in use track magic with them I also use 4 old tri-ang track cleaning wagons to with track magic it works really well goodbye for now stay safe and well mate clive
This is a very interesting subject ,I think the Peco track rubber is a good track cleaner you dont have to use a lot of pressure just gently glide along ,i do this then i go over with the dapol track cleaner ,i see that that product for you is very expensive in NZ ,i bought mine years ago at a reasonable price ,i have heard of some people using wd40 and say its ok but i'm not sure on that one ,but what i would also say on your layouts to apply as many dropper wires as you can to the bus wire to get a better contact for running ,if using set track i would have dropper wires on each track part ,using peco flexi track i say about every 3foot ,it was good to see the layout again and trains running even if they did struggle at the start ,someone could make a lot of money if they came up with a reliable and proven product for track cleaning ,its sounds a bit of a slippy subject lol ,all the best .
Many thanks Ray for you very informative feedback. I must confess I don't have as many dropper wires as I should and it's on my to-do list to increase the number. I think I've only got 4 sets of droppers on the main lines which is pretty minimal.
Great video 👍 I use a Dapol track cleaner they are very good. It comes with a tank for the fluid and also has polishing pads, abrasive pads. The best bit it has a built in vacuum and it’s amazing how much crap it sucks up 👍
I've watched some reviews on the Dapol track cleaner and they're all quite favourable except for one thing... their price. Hence why I've been hunting for cheaper alternative.
That sounds like a bargin! They seem to retail around the £80 mark in the UK but here in NZ, suppliers are trying to sell them for $336 NZD, that's approx £170 so basically daylight robbery.
Gents to avoid being ripped off by local suppliers deal direct with a UK supplier who will export out of UK e.g. Rails of Sheffield. They will sell in GBP and will deduct 20% current rate of UK VAT when exporting ( your quoted £80 drops by £16 to £64) and see to export paper work that is pretty minimal anyway. All you have to do is pay for delivery, RoS do at cost and you pay your home country customs any import duty due when the goods arrive. Hope helps. Stephen
Hi Julian - Not sure if you have been told as I am so far behind on here is that WD40 is totally different to Inox and should not be used on any account. Inox is very good but the latest train of thought over here in the UK is that the only liquid you should use is Lighter Fuel. This not only cleans the track, but leave's no residual liquid, evaporates quite quickly and does not damage any wheels including those with tyres on. Regards Chris
Great video Interesting how different people approach similar issues. Track cleaning and electrical conductivity certainly being one. I haven't tried this idea yet but have had great success with the use of Graphite Sticks. Easily available on EBay and very cheap. You JUST rub it onto a few evenly spaced areas of the track. Don't be too generous here. Run your locos and they wife spread it around the length of the layout. This greatly improves pick up. You don't need to clean the wheels on your rolling stock or your track more than once or twice a year. Nick
Hi Nick, I've heard the graphite sticks mentioned several times now, so I'll have to source some and try them out. With the varied comments on this video, I think I'll be doing a follow-up video which will include some other methods (graphite sticks) and also hopefully dispel some concerns other viewers have.
Would substituting IPA for the WD40 work better? No residue would be left, but granted you would need to re-apply the IPA each time as it would evaporate, but might make it more suitable for those who have locos fitted with traction tyres
IPA does evaporate almost instantly so might be safer for traction tyre locos, but don't take my word on this. If you watch Fishplate Films video, he mentions IPA.
Julian I use a very small amount atf fluid placed on the rail and allow the rolling stock to spread it around and I find I only have to wipe my rails with toliet paper every 6months and reapply and I only have to clean wheel sets once a year
I read that cats like to lick ATF off the rails and its very bad for them so as we have a super cat and my railway runs in and outdoors I can't try it. Interestingly, my railway was in storage for 7 yrs and even though the track looked clean when rebuilt nothing would run on it. The PECO track rubber was used and Bingo everything was fine. So this was an oxidation lesson. However, I now remove the oxidation/dirt with metal polish applied with a cloth and I've recently discovered Deoxit, an amazing electrical contact cleaner.
Hi. So much potentially conflicting advice. I understand Fishplate Films principle of not using track rubbers (TRs), but also like Model Railways Unlimited's thoughts on using the TR very lightly on the more stubborn bits of track. I also agree with his (her?) thoughts on WD40. As Inox is also a lubricant, I'm still not sure that this is 'the ultimate' solution (if you'll pardon the pun). Did you actually use two completely different bits of track for your comparison, because I worry that the balsa wood made have contributed to the cleaning of the track before your use of Inox. And the debate goes on!
Yes, I seem to have raised more questions than answers, which is good, this is exactly what I want the Station Road channel to do - for the model railway community to share ideas. I did compare both methods on completely independent tracks at first with the BR Blue using inox and the BR green operating the balsa pad. I saw a significant improvement in the BR blue running over the BR green, and then I eventually applied inox to the BR green track and saw the same improvement. The jury might be out on this one, although judging from the comments from people who use this method, it seems like a pretty solid solution.
Some people recommend using stainless steel and actually burnish the railhead with this. Years ago when servicing relay contacts back in my P + T days we burnished them, no abrasive. Your thoughts?
I investigated this method, apparently stainless steel is best, so I bought a stainless steel washer and tried it on the track. I can say I saw no visible difference (don't have microscope) nor any running/performance difference so the jury is out for me.
@@StationRoadModelRailway Burnishing the rail is basicaslly a very fine polishing action. If you burnish with normal steel there will be microscopic bits of steel left behind which will be attracted to your magnets in the motors. Using a decent stainless steel avoids that issue. Take a magnet to the store as some stainlerss steels are magnetic.
I would be very wary of using these products. Over time, as the oily deposit builds up, they could attract dirt, possibly start acting as an electrical isolator and they may also damage the chairs of the track. One thing is for sure, some proper research needs to be done on track cleaning, not anecdotal stuff, but to be clear, you are trying to help in this regard. For things that have moving parts, like bike chains, these products are a menace. They may seem like a quick fix or remedy, but anything that usually seems like a quick fix is kicking the problem further down the road. I might just try your balsa wagon. The answer may lay in a non-abrasive approach, so I would be averse to using a track rubber or sand/emery paper unless the metals are heavily oxidised, and more inclined to a solvent, though many of these have been shown to attack plastics. You just can't win :( Anyway, thanks for yet another thought provoking video, I'm always glad to see a notification from Station Road in my mail box.
Yes, it seems I have raised a thorny subject, which is good, this is what it's all about, the sharing of thought provoking ideas. If you watch Fishplate Films video (ignore his delivery), he does have some valid points, particularly when thinking of the track and loco as an electrical circuit, and quite clearly different from a bike chain. There is chap who has left a comment further down and he has been using WD-40 for years with no issues or plastic frogs or chairs degrading.
@@StationRoadModelRailway I've just remembered that as a young lad, I used to use something called dura-glit to clean my track surfaces, then rubbing the metals afterwards with a rag.
To be honest. I really (and I mean really) like your layout. It got so much character and isnt overloaded with useless buildings. It really has the most essential buildings. You did an amazing job!
What wonderful feedback, thank you so kindly. I believe there's 5 essential buildings a layout should have (if there is a town scene).... 1. A railway station... 2. An engine shed/depot... 3. A pub... 4. A grocery store... 5. A church
A very interesting video. I find that if you push the cleaning car rather than pull it behind the locomotive you get a better result. For a start the locomotive is not picking up grime off the track because you have the cleaning wagon in front of the locomotive. Cheers Greg
I did intend to push the cleaning wagon around for the exact reasons you mentioned, but there is one particular point in my trackwork that the wagon does not like when being pushed and derails, hence towing the wagon. However, it is a section of track that's scheduled for realignment at some point.
Definitely food for thought, thank you 😀
The Inox MX3 is more like a synthetic ATF. Not like WD40(water displacment) or CRC 2-26(electrical contact cleaner). I run Kato Unitrack H0 on the floor & was amazed at how good Inox MX3 was at reducing cleaning frequency. Don't get me wrong. I still vacuum with the TOMEX/DAPOL vacuum car to remove dusty crud. Haven't had to pick up the Roco 10002 track rubber since my Inox MX3 application. I too also tried the floor protectors on a track cleaning car & found some of the fibres came loose that could potentially find there way into locomotive gear trains. So I scrapped that idea for a slither of felt lined denim. Nice & slippery.
Hi Philip, thank you so kindly for your very informative feedback, and extremely grateful you are able to clarify what it is about the Inox that makes it suitable for loco running reliability. I'm curious to know about the felt lined denim you mention, where can this be found or purchase from?
@@StationRoadModelRailway Fortunately I found mine in the rag bin at work. I only found a piece approx 30cm². Cut it into strips. Must of come from some designer jeans.
Very informative and well presented video as usual.
Just to give a heads up on the method I use and in my case it is very reliable.
I very rarely actually clean my track, it is usually only after painting or ballasting the track.
What I do is do a light pass over the track with a 2b graphite stick maybe once every six months.
The majority of the black residue you find on the track is created by the minute sparks created as the wheels pass over the tack, the graphite reduces the electrical resistance between track and wheel, give it a try you will be surprised.
Cheers Mike
Hi Mike, thanks for positive feedback and info about the graphite stick method, it's definitely a method I'm also going to investigate.
Brilliant! Muito obrigado!
I was using the chair foot pads to apply wd-40, goo-gone or crc electronic cleaner on my layout in 1972 and on my current layout. I also use the back - textured - side of a scrap piece of masonite or hard board to do the main cleaning. I also have a box car that can carry either the pad or masonite to clean the track while being pulled by a loco. Great advice. Thanks for sharing and stay well.
Hi Larry, many thanks for your feedback/comments. The masonite/hard-board sounds like an interesting material to use.
As a kid in the sixties I had an old Triang cleaning wagon that had a felt pad that I used to soak with methylated spirit, track was steel and it worked really well. Haven't tried it on the nickel silver rail, your vid has reminded me of it! Cheers Julian
Hi, I liked your original idea, I think part of the problem with the Peco track rubber is people don't use them properly, you should never scrub away at the track, but instead use virtually no downward pressure and just glide the rubber over the track, if you see bits coming off then you are pressing way too hard! Periodically give the rubber a wipe over with a cloth and some IPA to clean it then off you go again. The very best and safest way to clean track is to use the rubber on occasions, use a polishing pad like your original idea and between this use IPA (Isopropyl alcohol ) on a cloth or with the pad you came up with, there are custom made cleaning wands by Woodland scenics I think which are very good for tight spots. The very last thing you want to do is apply anything like WD40 to your rails! it will attack some plastics and is not designed as an electrical cleaner. It will probably cause wheel slip and allow a build up of dirt later as it will remain sticky for some time. WD40 is great for what it's designed for, water displacement, automotive and garden tools etc. Of course, you are free to do what you want :)
Just like there are many metals, there are many plastics that are very different from one another. Overall, plastics can be divided into two basic groups:
Crystalline: Polypropylene, Polyethylene, Polyester (all types), Nylon
Amorphous: Polycarbonate, Styrenics (including ABS), PVC
The main ingredient in WD-40 is a light kerosene-like mineral oil, which is hydrocarbon based. Amorphous plastics and hydrocarbons don’t play well together: hydrocarbons will attack the chemical structure of amorphous plastics, breaking them down - essentially trying to “melt” them. In particular, Polycarbonate (PC) and Polystrene (PS). they are two named plastics on the WD-40 “do not use on these” list.
Crystalline materials are unaffected by the hydrocarbons in WD-40, you can spray them as much as you wish. (from another site)
Thanks for your informative video clips. I use this method now. I used WD40 first but it made the track very slippery one of my locos wouldn't move at all. It just sat there spinning the wheels.
I have now switched to Innox and this is fine with an all wheel drive loco, it can move reliably at a scale walking pace, but my old Lima struggles up a 2% incline with more than one wagon/coach. (It has very worn wheels).
Standard WD40 is basically a water repellent and lubricant so will leave slippery rails, they also produce a very good product WD40 contact cleaner that does not leave a slippery residue and is also plastic safe
Mike
Thanks Mike for this handy info. There a number of Inox equivalents but it's a case of finding the right type. Fishplate Films provides detail on what the ingredients should contain and it shouldn't contain too.
@@StationRoadModelRailway WD40 in Europe is a penetrative water repelling OIL, it would cause slipping, collect dirt and do no good for electrical conductivity as it is a mineral oil and an insulator! The company WD40 may well sell other products such as contact cleaners, not to be mixed up! CRC 2-26 in USA and Inox in Aus are contact cleaners with conductive additives.
Rewatching your videos and still loving your techniques! I cannot for the life of me, even now, find thin double sided tape :D Great adaptation and I may use this on my layout.
Hi Julian i watched the fishplate guy a while ago and used a version of wd40 so relying on electrical conductivity, but as you said it also removes dirt from your rails too, haven't needed to clean track since ,but one thing i do disagree with fishplate guy the track rubber he was using was awful , hornby do a very good rubber which doesn't disintegrate on contact with the track , i also clean my locos wheels with the same stuff by soaking a paper cloth across the rails by lightly holding loco half on cloth and half on rails and switching around todo other bogie as you said locos just seem to run better, thanks for another excellent video...........tony
Hi Tony, thanks for your feedback and interesting info, I like the sound of the wheel cleaning method you mentioned, so think I'll give that a go, much appreciated.
I have been using CRC 2-26, which is an equivalent of Inox. The last time I applied it to my N scale layout was back in March, and have not had a problem since then. I run trains once or twice a week, so the rails do get a reasonable amount of use, but prior to using the product, I was needing to clean the rails every couple of weeks.
I am still adding scenery to the layout. There are still sections that are getting rails painted and ballast applied, but after doing the work, I give the rails a rub with the Peco track rubber to clean off the dried glue, then give a quick burnish with a steel washer, and then run the CRC on the track with a cloth. Then is it is back to faultless train running.
I should also state that I live right on the coast here in Australia, so salty air is quite common - just more to affect the oxidation of the rails. Some friends, who put me onto CRC, only clean their tracks every 6 months or so in similar environments. They run O, HO and N, so quite a mix, and all with no issues.
Hi Eric, that is some really informative and great feedback. I'm curious about the steel washer process, is it any kind of steel washer or something more specific that you use?
@@StationRoadModelRailway Nothing special - just an old washer that I had in my toolbox. I cannot remember where I picked up the idea, but it was about ensuring that there were no scratches on the track that could then catch dirt.
After posting my comment, I later remembered that one of my friends uses a block of cork to apply his CRC, so your idea of using the pads is a great enhancement. I might even suggest that you just apply the Inox to your balsa pad, but I remember that my friend that uses the cork pad reapplies every couple of metres. I think that your pad idea is a great solution. Will be very interested in how it performs over a long period.
@@StationRoadModelRailway Use stainless steel to burnish the rails. Not mild steel.
Hi.... Good effort..... Thanks for the felt pad application. method.At present after all sorts of 'cloth' type I settled on thin leather, (Kid leather?),
as most cloths defrag and get in loco mechs etc. As for oil based cleaning liquids after lots of testing etc I totally reject the CRC's, WD40 etc. Treating gradients with this stuff worked great for start as far as increasing traction but it did not last long before the track got that grey buildup making
the track dirty and electrically not the best, traction also gradually deteriorated. The solution for me was a water/meths/detergent mix and this really does keep my track clean and cleaning is not needed that often. Traction/electrics on grades remains 100% at all times. My suggestion is give this a try.
Cleaning solution: 75% water/25% meths/1-2 drops household detergent.
Thank you for your very informative feedback/comments. I'll definitely keep your solutions in mind. In some respects, based on the feedback I've been getting, it would seem tracking cleaning methods (and their success or failure) might be dependent on the type of layout (gradients, curves, locos, etc) and possible even the environment the layout is in (dusty loft, cold garage, high humidity, etc).
A few added points. With using WD40 etc the loco 'traction' does not increase on grades. it's the wheel flanges of that pick up the 'oil' and lubricate reducing the load friction. This breaks down fairly quickly and general answer is to restore things with WD40 etc. In time the 'gunge' just builds up and up! The idea is to get back to a clean track. Quick method is use of kero giving a though dry off so as no 'grey' deposit shows on a finger wipe. Trains should perform 100% for extended time but a going over with a cleaning wagon with a dry balsa pad from time to time is good practice. From time to time I go over with a 'wet' balsa pad and my water/meths.detergent as a sort of wash, (dishwashing if you like), this removes any stubborn 'grey' spots and then do a dry balsa clean run. (If one does not dry off any liquid then the grey gunge builds back up quickly. My theory is that the 'grey' residue is produced by a arching reaction at molcular level as loco wheels pick up the power from the track. Totally dry clean track is the aim but one factor that I'm sure could play a part is humidity, to what extent I don't really know. My 'theory' on track rubbers is that they do clean track but can put micro scratches on the track which will fill with that grey stuff so should be used sparingly and gently. My layout has a double spiral complex with 1in33 grades so my 'experiments' have therefore more issues to deal with in this track cleaning topic than any 'flat' layout. Cheers.
Thank you so kindly for your very in-depth comments and knowledge on the subject of track cleaning, absolutely brilliant!
Smooth operator! Briliant! Regards from Brazil! Printing paper is very abrasive. Try, for once, rub a piece of your usual A4 on your rails. I used to do this in computer contacts. Worked pretty well.
Thanks Eugenio for your kind words and interesting method/tip, much appreciated.
Hi mate another great video great information I have built two of your tracks claning wagons in use track magic with them I also use 4 old tri-ang track cleaning wagons to with track magic it works really well goodbye for now stay safe and well mate clive
Hi Clive, brilliant stuff, it's great to hear you've given the DIY track wagon a go.
This is a very interesting subject ,I think the Peco track rubber is a good track cleaner you dont have to use a lot of pressure just gently glide along ,i do this then i go over with the dapol track cleaner ,i see that that product for you is very expensive in NZ ,i bought mine years ago at a reasonable price ,i have heard of some people using wd40 and say its ok but i'm not sure on that one ,but what i would also say on your layouts to apply as many dropper wires as you can to the bus wire to get a better contact for running ,if using set track i would have dropper wires on each track part ,using peco flexi track i say about every 3foot ,it was good to see the layout again and trains running even if they did struggle at the start ,someone could make a lot of money if they came up with a reliable and proven product for track cleaning ,its sounds a bit of a slippy subject lol ,all the best .
Many thanks Ray for you very informative feedback. I must confess I don't have as many dropper wires as I should and it's on my to-do list to increase the number. I think I've only got 4 sets of droppers on the main lines which is pretty minimal.
@@StationRoadModelRailway wow that is quite minimal, think you should deffo add some more ,make it a priority job for yourself.
Great video 👍 I use a Dapol track cleaner they are very good. It comes with a tank for the fluid and also has polishing pads, abrasive pads. The best bit it has a built in vacuum and it’s amazing how much crap it sucks up 👍
I've watched some reviews on the Dapol track cleaner and they're all quite favourable except for one thing... their price. Hence why I've been hunting for cheaper alternative.
Station Road Model Railway
I see what you mean. I was lucky I picked one up from the Dapol factory shop as a shop return and it was only £20.
That sounds like a bargin! They seem to retail around the £80 mark in the UK but here in NZ, suppliers are trying to sell them for $336 NZD, that's approx £170 so basically daylight robbery.
Station Road Model Railway Thats terrible. Still you got a fantastic solution 👍
Gents to avoid being ripped off by local suppliers deal direct with a UK supplier who will export out of UK e.g. Rails of Sheffield. They will sell in GBP and will deduct 20% current rate of UK VAT when exporting ( your quoted £80 drops by £16 to £64) and see to export paper work that is pretty minimal anyway. All you have to do is pay for delivery, RoS do at cost and you pay your home country customs any import duty due when the goods arrive. Hope helps. Stephen
Hi Julian - Not sure if you have been told as I am so far behind on here is that WD40 is totally different to Inox and should not be used on any account.
Inox is very good but the latest train of thought over here in the UK is that the only liquid you should use is Lighter Fuel.
This not only cleans the track, but leave's no residual liquid, evaporates quite quickly and does not damage any wheels including those with tyres on.
Regards Chris
Great video
Interesting how different people approach similar issues. Track cleaning and electrical conductivity certainly being one.
I haven't tried this idea yet but have had great success with the use of Graphite Sticks.
Easily available on EBay and very cheap.
You JUST rub it onto a few evenly spaced areas of the track. Don't be too generous here.
Run your locos and they wife spread it around the length of the layout.
This greatly improves pick up.
You don't need to clean the wheels on your rolling stock or your track more than once or twice a year.
Nick
Hi Nick, I've heard the graphite sticks mentioned several times now, so I'll have to source some and try them out. With the varied comments on this video, I think I'll be doing a follow-up video which will include some other methods (graphite sticks) and also hopefully dispel some concerns other viewers have.
Yet another great video keep up the good work 😎😎😎
Thanks Mike, much appreciated👍
Would substituting IPA for the WD40 work better? No residue would be left, but granted you would need to re-apply the IPA each time as it would evaporate, but might make it more suitable for those who have locos fitted with traction tyres
IPA does evaporate almost instantly so might be safer for traction tyre locos, but don't take my word on this. If you watch Fishplate Films video, he mentions IPA.
Julian I use a very small amount atf fluid placed on the rail and allow the rolling stock to spread it around and I find I only have to wipe my rails with toliet paper every 6months and reapply and I only have to clean wheel sets once a year
That sounds like an unusual product to use. When you say ATF fluid, do you mean transmission fluid?
Yep the red stuff
I read that cats like to lick ATF off the rails and its very bad for them so as we have a super cat and my railway runs in and outdoors I can't try it. Interestingly, my railway was in storage for 7 yrs and even though the track looked clean when rebuilt nothing would run on it. The PECO track rubber was used and Bingo everything was fine. So this was an oxidation lesson. However, I now remove the oxidation/dirt with metal polish applied with a cloth and I've recently discovered Deoxit, an amazing electrical contact cleaner.
Love your channel well done
Love to have you on my channel some time soon
Thank you for your wonderful feedback, always greatly appreciated🙂
Entirely possible one day - when all this covid business is over.
looks good but half my locos mabe more are with traction tyres fitted
Yeah, I would definitely not use this method if you have traction tyres fitted.
Hokey Pokey Ice Cream - can't get it in the UK - really miss it!
Is there not a New Zealand shop in the UK where you can buy things all Kiwi?
@@StationRoadModelRailway Yeah, but not chilled stuff like Ice Cream, just sweets (Minties, Jaffas etc), tinned stuff, biscuits, chips etc!
Hi just found your channel and i have subscribed and what a great video this was really interesting.
Thank you for your kind feedback and subscribing, welcome to Station Road. Cheers, Julian.
Hi. So much potentially conflicting advice. I understand Fishplate Films principle of not using track rubbers (TRs), but also like Model Railways Unlimited's thoughts on using the TR very lightly on the more stubborn bits of track. I also agree with his (her?) thoughts on WD40. As Inox is also a lubricant, I'm still not sure that this is 'the ultimate' solution (if you'll pardon the pun). Did you actually use two completely different bits of track for your comparison, because I worry that the balsa wood made have contributed to the cleaning of the track before your use of Inox. And the debate goes on!
Yes, I seem to have raised more questions than answers, which is good, this is exactly what I want the Station Road channel to do - for the model railway community to share ideas. I did compare both methods on completely independent tracks at first with the BR Blue using inox and the BR green operating the balsa pad. I saw a significant improvement in the BR blue running over the BR green, and then I eventually applied inox to the BR green track and saw the same improvement. The jury might be out on this one, although judging from the comments from people who use this method, it seems like a pretty solid solution.
Some people recommend using stainless steel and actually burnish the railhead with this. Years ago when servicing relay contacts back in my P + T days we burnished them, no abrasive. Your thoughts?
I'm not familiar with this as a potential method. Does anyone else have any thoughts on this?
*Eric Coughlan* further up the comment list mentioned he uses a steel washer to burnish the rail head as part of his track cleaning process.
I investigated this method, apparently stainless steel is best, so I bought a stainless steel washer and tried it on the track. I can say I saw no visible difference (don't have microscope) nor any running/performance difference so the jury is out for me.
@@StationRoadModelRailway Burnishing the rail is basicaslly a very fine polishing action. If you burnish with normal steel there will be microscopic bits of steel left behind which will be attracted to your magnets in the motors. Using a decent stainless steel avoids that issue. Take a magnet to the store as some stainlerss steels are magnetic.
@@donnamarie3617 I had to check the stainless steel washer I bought wasn't magnetic, and it isn't, that's a relief.
I would be very wary of using these products. Over time, as the oily deposit builds up, they could attract dirt, possibly start acting as an electrical isolator and they may also damage the chairs of the track. One thing is for sure, some proper research needs to be done on track cleaning, not anecdotal stuff, but to be clear, you are trying to help in this regard. For things that have moving parts, like bike chains, these products are a menace. They may seem like a quick fix or remedy, but anything that usually seems like a quick fix is kicking the problem further down the road. I might just try your balsa wagon. The answer may lay in a non-abrasive approach, so I would be averse to using a track rubber or sand/emery paper unless the metals are heavily oxidised, and more inclined to a solvent, though many of these have been shown to attack plastics. You just can't win :(
Anyway, thanks for yet another thought provoking video, I'm always glad to see a notification from Station Road in my mail box.
Yes, it seems I have raised a thorny subject, which is good, this is what it's all about, the sharing of thought provoking ideas. If you watch Fishplate Films video (ignore his delivery), he does have some valid points, particularly when thinking of the track and loco as an electrical circuit, and quite clearly different from a bike chain. There is chap who has left a comment further down and he has been using WD-40 for years with no issues or plastic frogs or chairs degrading.
@@StationRoadModelRailway I've just remembered that as a young lad, I used to use something called dura-glit to clean my track surfaces, then rubbing the metals afterwards with a rag.