Here you go! This is going to be the last sciency episode for a now. I’ll be sharpening a few blades in the next three episodes. Don’t forget to hit notifications bell please! And ask questions, lots of questions!
Your channel offers something unique and interesting to the knife community. Keep it up, even if some commentators don't understand the value of your work.
I have owned this sharpener and have had some mixed results. I see now how important it is to clamp tight, clamp so that the deviation in the angle is less to nonexistent. I am curious about why you are so concerned with the jump from 400-600? worksharp has done a lot of research to get the best possible grits to be expedient. I also went on Etsy and purchased a universal stone attachment so I can use all my diamond and natural stones that have different coarseness stones all the way down to 5000 and also using compound paste.
I applaud your insiteful and informative videos. I have incorporated your suggested mods to include: 2 zip ties (around knife holder insert, around right column) metal bushings in stone holder, adjustable bolt, nut, magnet, wooden shims under knife supports. I note that with larger and longer knives that under support near the handle distal end, tip and middle decreases flex. If you run the sequence of stones to ceramic and then flip over resetting the under supports and repeating the sequence this makes it more efficient. 2 questions/issues: 1. With cleavers 3-5 inches wide i find limits to adjusting angles greater than 22-23 degrees as the columns are too short. Any suggestions? 2. With most longer blades the angle can vary .75 to 1.5 degrees when sweeping the blade from base to tip. I note that most sharpened blades on the web have a visably wider bevel near their tips. I have a 10" Friedrich herder/solingen blade that measures 20 degrees at the holder and 14.5 at tip. If I sweep the holder area and then reset the tip area to 20 and sweep will this keep bevel more stable? Last question: stroke options are: push, pull, lateral, saw. I watched some videos that reported a push stroke resulted in the sharpest apex. Your thoughts?
Stroke direction matters only for the finishing grits - 400 and higher. As long as it’s roughly perpendicular to the edge and you limit side to side motion to a minimum.
The blade width is less important than the behind the edge thickness (BET). On many large batch production knives the primary bevel is parallel to the apex, so when the belly sweeps up, BET increases causing the wider secondary bevel. Setting the blade to maintain tension angle is discussed in this video.
I'd love a video showing you sharpening the medford fighter flipper. I'm going to be buying one at the end of the month and soon agter the work sharp professional sharpening system. And I really don't wanna fuck.up the edge.. thabk.you for all the videos. Super informative always.
I would recommend buying a good sharpener BEFORE a Medford knife because there’s a roughly 50/50 chance that you will need to sharpen it before you attempt to cut with it. 🤣 I love the USMC FF looks and mine had a great edge, which could not be said about the Infraction, Slim Middy, and Hunden. The other 2 were Ok.
I have the same sharpener that you are using in the video. I rarely check the edge with the sharpie as you have demonstrated and I usually start with the lowest grit. My thinking is that I like most of my sharpened angles to be between 15-17 degrees. Most manufacturers seem to be between 18 -22 degrees or even higher. I do however like a mirrored edge. So what you’re saying is by choosing a lower starting grit, it’s harder if not nearly impossible to get a mirrored edge? Is it wrong not to like the normal factory edge? Of course my decision is based a lot on how thick and wide the blade is. I tend to buy knives that would accommodate a lower angle without having a very wide bevel. I really enjoy your videos and your frank truthfulness. I would love to have a real conversation with you sometime. Thanks again.
Can you cover sharpening a narrow blade like the benchmade flyway or a fillet knife? Benchmade claims to put a 14 degree angle on some of their blades. The sharpener is marketed to down to 15 degrees with the clamp. With a wide blade, I would think you could get lower angles much easier than with narrow blades where clearances on the clamp would be a problem. If 15 is as close as I can get then that is what it is but I am wondering if there is a trick to maybe get closer to the factory angle. I have not tried the table attachment at all yet.
Very well explained! By using your "tricks" to keep angle deviation small, is it also possible to create a more or less even bevel if the spine of a straight back knife is very thick and the secondary bevel curves all the way up to the spine? Hope I explained that well enough... I saw home-sharpened blades that almost widened up to a 1 cm bevel near the tip...
Great channel! I would like to know how you clamp Spyderco flat grinds. Just went to sharpen my first knife a Spyderco Manix 2 and could not figure out how to get a clamp bit that did not wobble like crazy.
How often are bevel angles perfect (or at least near perfect) from one side of the knife to the other? I’ve found that about half of the knives I check with the sharpie have slightly unequal angles and the sharpie is removed inconsistently from one side to the other. Great series!
You’re spot on! A typical tolerance for an angle called out on a typical engineering drawing is +/- 3° in automotive, +/- .5° in aerospace, and +/- .2° in precision measurement equipment industries. Here we are, splitting hairs for the noble purpose of slicing cardboard. 🤣
By Pen Blades you mean the little old school slip joint knives like Case and Swiss Army? Also, send me a picture of the ruined blade to the email in the channel description, I’ll see if I have a similar f-up in my collection 😉
If the knife I'll fix in the clamp has a full flat grind or a full hollow grind, how can I create a secondary bavel having the same width on both sides of the blade?
So based on the your input, it’s not a problem that I would worry about too much. As I showed in the math segment of this video, the difference in the edge width will be very small. That said, you could play with the blade position and orientation: it doesn’t have to be centred or parallel to the jaws of the clamp
Interesting, first time i heard that the ceramic is probably around 1200. I m thinking about buying sharpening stoned cbn with An adapter for the ws prof. And i m trying to figure out what stones to buy. Are the stones from ws graded according to fepa-f?
@CuttingBoardReviews I'm happy to hear this because I've ran into the same thing while using mine. I can't imagine using the sharpeners with narrower stones because even these want to roll if you're not locking your wrist when pushing or pulling off the tip.
the width of a stone doesn’t matter all that much especially in the belly area because it is contacting the edge at a single point. I’ll address this in another video
It’s not really that expensive. How much do you spend on your knives? It works just about on every kind of knife from traditional slip joints, kitchen knives, sporting knives and modern EDC knives. It should last along time and helps me maintain my knives without damaging or lowering their value by poor sharpening skills.
Here you go! This is going to be the last sciency episode for a now. I’ll be sharpening a few blades in the next three episodes. Don’t forget to hit notifications bell please! And ask questions, lots of questions!
Your channel offers something unique and interesting to the knife community. Keep it up, even if some commentators don't understand the value of your work.
Hey man. I just wanted to say you're a sharpening hero. The information you've shared is invaluable. Thank you so much.
I appreciate that!
You are truly the best of us!
Heck, no! You should meet the Marines I work with!
I have owned this sharpener and have had some mixed results. I see now how important it is to clamp tight, clamp so that the deviation in the angle is less to nonexistent. I am curious about why you are so concerned with the jump from 400-600? worksharp has done a lot of research to get the best possible grits to be expedient. I also went on Etsy and purchased a universal stone attachment so I can use all my diamond and natural stones that have different coarseness stones all the way down to 5000 and also using compound paste.
Can you please link that universal stone holder?
400-600 is nothing
@@THE-HEREMIT I did but it was then removed.
Great video, big thumbs up!
Thanks for the video
I applaud your insiteful and informative videos. I have incorporated your suggested mods to include: 2 zip ties (around knife holder insert, around right column) metal bushings in stone holder, adjustable bolt, nut, magnet, wooden shims under knife supports. I note that with larger and longer knives that under support near the handle distal end, tip and middle decreases flex. If you run the sequence of stones to ceramic and then flip over resetting the under supports and repeating the sequence this makes it more efficient.
2 questions/issues:
1. With cleavers 3-5 inches wide i find limits to adjusting angles greater than 22-23 degrees as the columns are too short. Any suggestions?
2. With most longer blades the angle can vary .75 to 1.5 degrees when sweeping the blade from base to tip. I note that most sharpened blades on the web have a visably wider bevel near their tips. I have a 10" Friedrich herder/solingen blade that measures 20 degrees at the holder and 14.5 at tip. If I sweep the holder area and then reset the tip area to 20 and sweep will this keep bevel more stable?
Last question: stroke options are: push, pull, lateral, saw. I watched some videos that reported a push stroke resulted in the sharpest apex.
Your thoughts?
Stroke direction matters only for the finishing grits - 400 and higher. As long as it’s roughly perpendicular to the edge and you limit side to side motion to a minimum.
The blade width is less important than the behind the edge thickness (BET). On many large batch production knives the primary bevel is parallel to the apex, so when the belly sweeps up, BET increases causing the wider secondary bevel. Setting the blade to maintain tension angle is discussed in this video.
I use this little belt sander for most of my larger blades:
ruclips.net/video/DwxEhDvYC6s/видео.html
I'd love a video showing you sharpening the medford fighter flipper. I'm going to be buying one at the end of the month and soon agter the work sharp professional sharpening system. And I really don't wanna fuck.up the edge.. thabk.you for all the videos. Super informative always.
I would recommend buying a good sharpener BEFORE a Medford knife because there’s a roughly 50/50 chance that you will need to sharpen it before you attempt to cut with it. 🤣
I love the USMC FF looks and mine had a great edge, which could not be said about the Infraction, Slim Middy, and Hunden. The other 2 were Ok.
I have the same sharpener that you are using in the video. I rarely check the edge with the sharpie as you have demonstrated and I usually start with the lowest grit. My thinking is that I like most of my sharpened angles to be between 15-17 degrees. Most manufacturers seem to be between 18 -22 degrees or even higher. I do however like a mirrored edge. So what you’re saying is by choosing a lower starting grit, it’s harder if not nearly impossible to get a mirrored edge? Is it wrong not to like the normal factory edge? Of course my decision is based a lot on how thick and wide the blade is. I tend to buy knives that would accommodate a lower angle without having a very wide bevel. I really enjoy your videos and your frank truthfulness. I would love to have a real conversation with you sometime. Thanks again.
I start grits all the way down to 100, up to 1400 then final stropping at 1,.5, and 0.1 microns and the mirror edges are beyond easy to achieve.
Can you cover sharpening a narrow blade like the benchmade flyway or a fillet knife? Benchmade claims to put a 14 degree angle on some of their blades. The sharpener is marketed to down to 15 degrees with the clamp. With a wide blade, I would think you could get lower angles much easier than with narrow blades where clearances on the clamp would be a problem. If 15 is as close as I can get then that is what it is but I am wondering if there is a trick to maybe get closer to the factory angle. I have not tried the table attachment at all yet.
Very well explained! By using your "tricks" to keep angle deviation small, is it also possible to create a more or less even bevel if the spine of a straight back knife is very thick and the secondary bevel curves all the way up to the spine? Hope I explained that well enough... I saw home-sharpened blades that almost widened up to a 1 cm bevel near the tip...
Great channel! I would like to know how you clamp Spyderco flat grinds. Just went to sharpen my first knife a Spyderco Manix 2 and could not figure out how to get a clamp bit that did not wobble like crazy.
How often are bevel angles perfect (or at least near perfect) from one side of the knife to the other? I’ve found that about half of the knives I check with the sharpie have slightly unequal angles and the sharpie is removed inconsistently from one side to the other. Great series!
You’re spot on! A typical tolerance for an angle called out on a typical engineering drawing is +/- 3° in automotive, +/- .5° in aerospace, and +/- .2° in precision measurement equipment industries. Here we are, splitting hairs for the noble purpose of slicing cardboard. 🤣
I would like some pointers on how to not ruin big bellies whilst getting the tip i have straightened some of mine😢
I would also like tips on how to sharpen pen blades
By Pen Blades you mean the little old school slip joint knives like Case and Swiss Army? Also, send me a picture of the ruined blade to the email in the channel description, I’ll see if I have a similar f-up in my collection 😉
Yeah like sod busters or GEC primary and secondary blades
If the knife I'll fix in the clamp has a full flat grind or a full hollow grind, how can I create a secondary bavel having the same width on both sides of the blade?
So you didn't answer my question in your last video. Is that because I complimented you too much? 😉😁
I’m making a whole new video that will cover yours and one other question 😉
@@CuttingBoardRx great! That's exactly what I thought was going to happen! Thx! 👍😁
Need help I put a standard chefs knife in I set for 18 in the middle I get 16 at the tip and 17 at rear how do I fix im ruining the edge
So based on the your input, it’s not a problem that I would worry about too much. As I showed in the math segment of this video, the difference in the edge width will be very small. That said, you could play with the blade position and orientation: it doesn’t have to be centred or parallel to the jaws of the clamp
Have you released episode 5 yet? I can’t seem to find it
I’m working on an episode on how to make the ORIGINAL Precision Adjust to work better. It’s going to be simple, cheap, and very effective!
Interesting, first time i heard that the ceramic is probably around 1200. I m thinking about buying sharpening stoned cbn with An adapter for the ws prof. And i m trying to figure out what stones to buy. Are the stones from ws graded according to fepa-f?
Great nerdy stuff
Knerdy?
Looks like the tip on that microtech is pretty rounded off. Is that from using the Worksharp Pro?
Well, blame the man, not the tool! I hosed it up a little. I will talk about this some more in a future video.
@CuttingBoardReviews I'm happy to hear this because I've ran into the same thing while using mine. I can't imagine using the sharpeners with narrower stones because even these want to roll if you're not locking your wrist when pushing or pulling off the tip.
the width of a stone doesn’t matter all that much especially in the belly area because it is contacting the edge at a single point. I’ll address this in another video
This system is interesting although quite expensiv.
It’s not really that expensive. How much do you spend on your knives? It works just about on every kind of knife from traditional slip joints, kitchen knives, sporting knives and modern EDC knives. It should last along time and helps me maintain my knives without damaging or lowering their value by poor sharpening skills.
@@stevecress44 For someone wanting to learn to sharpen, I would recommend some plastic angle wedges and a couple of stones. $40 tops.