Yeah, you have re-centered the axel at your new static ride height, but this does NOTHING for the geometry, in fact, you have made things worse by increasing the lateral movement of the axel (side to side movement when the suspension is cycling up and down). You need to correct the angle of the panhard bar, back to being flat and parallel to the axel. This can be done with a panhard correction riser bracket, this will put everything back to being better than factory geometry, by centering and raising the roll centers, you will get much less body roll and you eliminate the side to side wiggle when going over large bumps. Rampt customs do the best correction bracket, check it out, you will thank me.
Thanks much for the great explanation ! For a green horn like me, extremely useful !
prefer measuring the farm and the axel, i feel its a lot more accurate that using the body. to each their own tho
Yeah, you have re-centered the axel at your new static ride height, but this does NOTHING for the geometry, in fact, you have made things worse by increasing the lateral movement of the axel (side to side movement when the suspension is cycling up and down).
You need to correct the angle of the panhard bar, back to being flat and parallel to the axel.
This can be done with a panhard correction riser bracket, this will put everything back to being better than factory geometry, by centering and raising the roll centers, you will get much less body roll and you eliminate the side to side wiggle when going over large bumps.
Rampt customs do the best correction bracket, check it out, you will thank me.