I agree with not using side cutters to pinch the pin could nick it causing a weak point, and I wouldn’t cut one of the cotter pin legs off, if the one you bent were to break it would be easy for the pin to fall out, but with both legs bent in opposite directions it’s likely to stay in place if one were to break. But good information on proper installation, I just did the impeller on my 50hp and your video on that was great.
In an aircraft situation one should definitely be extra cautious of your cotter pins. In my 42 years of wrenching I have never had a cotter pin fall out.
I just installed new prop shaft seals. My 115 2 stroke has a different style thrust washer (not the same as the specified part in the service manual). I think I should change to the correct part (6E5-45987-01-00) because the new seals are so deep in the cavity I really think something should be on top of them to help hold them in place. (The drive shaft seals have a cap that secures them below the impeller plate.) Does the thrust washer you installed here fit inside the outer shaft housing and rest against the top seal? Or is there a space between the seal and the bottom of the thrust washer?
Is there any difference using the original bucket washers vs. thick steel washer on the nut side? My prop dropped off because the old cotter pin had snapped and the nut unwound itself coming in at a pier. (Amazing luck there...) I had to buy an original full hardware kit with the same nut washers as in the video but the stainless ballistic prop i have used to have a simple thick steel washer at the nut. Are there differences on those? The bucket washer seemed to seat fine in the hub too just wondering is there a reason the stainless originally had the thick washer?
Yes I have. One does need to make sure your gear depth remains correct. Using a workshop manual and proper shimming tools is recommended. I would not say it is a simple job. It would really depend on your mechanical experience. It is a whole lot simpler than setting up a Volvo or Bravo Duo prop.
So many variables here. How badly bent first. The only way to straighten it without disassembly is to hit it with a hammer. IF, (and that is a very big IF), I were to try it I would use a soft blow hammer and only on a very slight bend. Hitting the shaft puts a huge impact load on the bearings that they simply don't like. So, age and condition of lower unit. Is it an older salt water unit that will likely not come apart due to corrosion anyway, then go ahead and beat on it. Low hour new unit, which is what we work on here mostly, will get taken apart. Bent shafts are hard on seals so we would replace the seals too anyway. And inspect the bearings carefully. Of course the other way to look at it is "it's already bent".
@@CanadaWideMarine Ok. Thanks. It's on my cousin's 60hp. Low hrs, freshwater use. I would say its a Very slight bend to shaft, as the prop hub, just lightly touches the housing if turned by hand in one spot. I honestly dont even think its much to worry about, just something I noticed on his when it was on the trailer. I may pull his prop, and put a dial indicator to it to get an actual measurement of the run out and see what it measures. Thanks Brother! Keep up the great work!
Very good explanation. I have a Yamaha F90 and today I attempted to install a new prop, not a Yamaha brand. 2 things I noticed.....first, the new prop hit against the anode on my lower unit. Second, the new thrust washer didn't "seat" into the housing of the motor like the Yamaha thrust washer did. I figure I probably can't use that new prop. Any thoughts on my 2 issues? Thanks so much. Liked and subbed.
Thanks for the video, unfortunately I changed the order and installed the thrust washer last. The engine stalled because the propeller was rubbing in the housing. I changed the order and now everything is working correctly, do you think I may have caused some damage to the bearing house?
Without visually inspecting your housing there is no way I can speculate on whether or not any damage was done. If you are unsure a quick visit to a marine mechanic will let you know. Thanks for watching my videos.
Hello guys, I bought a boat with an old Yamaha outboard 2-stroke engine built in 1983 50HP Model: 6F4 and I can't find a parts list or repair instructions. This engine is not listed anywhere. I'm desperate, someone please help me. Thanks in advance
@@CanadaWideMarine Well I can see you know what you are doing, and no doubt did not squeeze too hard--but you are using a cutting tool to grasp the pin, that's all I was saying. Any instruction would not doubt not recommend a cutting tool.
Why does Yamaha recommend 46 ft lbs of torque if it doesn't require much torque to hold the nut on? Seems a little shady. Always go by the manufacturers recommend torque specification. Otherwise you could find yourself missing a prop.
This was FASCINATING. There’s no way I could have figured this out on my own. I removed the old propeller and didn’t keep things in order. Thank you!
Great Video, Simply explains the proper way to install the prop. You Give the best details that helped me immensely. Thank you
Glad I was able to help. Thanks for watching and thank you for the feedback.
Great video love the direct and to the point without all the goofy into junk people are doing now days.
I agree with not using side cutters to pinch the pin could nick it causing a weak point, and I wouldn’t cut one of the cotter pin legs off, if the one you bent were to break it would be easy for the pin to fall out, but with both legs bent in opposite directions it’s likely to stay in place if one were to break. But good information on proper installation, I just did the impeller on my 50hp and your video on that was great.
In an aircraft situation one should definitely be extra cautious of your cotter pins. In my 42 years of wrenching I have never had a cotter pin fall out.
Great video bud hi from Australia
Thank you.. from the bottom of my prop.
I just installed new prop shaft seals. My 115 2 stroke has a different style thrust washer (not the same as the specified part in the service manual). I think I should change to the correct part (6E5-45987-01-00) because the new seals are so deep in the cavity I really think something should be on top of them to help hold them in place. (The drive shaft seals have a cap that secures them below the impeller plate.) Does the thrust washer you installed here fit inside the outer shaft housing and rest against the top seal? Or is there a space between the seal and the bottom of the thrust washer?
any thoughts on how to properly remove a seized/stuck prop while leaving the shaft in good condition without taking it to a yard to get fixed? Thanks!
Great video, thank you !
Great vedio, cheers.
Thanks for watching, and the compliment.
Is there any difference using the original bucket washers vs. thick steel washer on the nut side? My prop dropped off because the old cotter pin had snapped and the nut unwound itself coming in at a pier. (Amazing luck there...) I had to buy an original full hardware kit with the same nut washers as in the video but the stainless ballistic prop i have used to have a simple thick steel washer at the nut. Are there differences on those? The bucket washer seemed to seat fine in the hub too just wondering is there a reason the stainless originally had the thick washer?
how do you get the extra washer out of the prop when you take it off? Mine is stuck
Thanks for that 👌
When installing a new prop do I need to clean the powder coat off the thrust washer side to insure it works properly
not usually. If there is a big drip or blob that may cause it to run out of true you would want to remove that.
Another Great video! thank you! Have you ever changed a bent propeller shaft on one of these motors? Is it a simple, or very involved job?
Yes I have. One does need to make sure your gear depth remains correct. Using a workshop manual and proper shimming tools is recommended. I would not say it is a simple job. It would really depend on your mechanical experience. It is a whole lot simpler than setting up a Volvo or Bravo Duo prop.
@@CanadaWideMarine great thanks. I have heard of people straightening slightly bent shafts with out disassembly? That cant be normal practice is it?
So many variables here. How badly bent first. The only way to straighten it without disassembly is to hit it with a hammer. IF, (and that is a very big IF), I were to try it I would use a soft blow hammer and only on a very slight bend. Hitting the shaft puts a huge impact load on the bearings that they simply don't like. So, age and condition of lower unit. Is it an older salt water unit that will likely not come apart due to corrosion anyway, then go ahead and beat on it. Low hour new unit, which is what we work on here mostly, will get taken apart. Bent shafts are hard on seals so we would replace the seals too anyway. And inspect the bearings carefully.
Of course the other way to look at it is "it's already bent".
@@CanadaWideMarine Ok. Thanks. It's on my cousin's 60hp. Low hrs, freshwater use. I would say its a Very slight bend to shaft, as the prop hub, just lightly touches the housing if turned by hand in one spot. I honestly dont even think its much to worry about, just something I noticed on his when it was on the trailer. I may pull his prop, and put a dial indicator to it to get an actual measurement of the run out and see what it measures. Thanks Brother! Keep up the great work!
Very good explanation. I have a Yamaha F90 and today I attempted to install a new prop, not a Yamaha brand. 2 things I noticed.....first, the new prop hit against the anode on my lower unit. Second, the new thrust washer didn't "seat" into the housing of the motor like the Yamaha thrust washer did. I figure I probably can't use that new prop. Any thoughts on my 2 issues? Thanks so much. Liked and subbed.
If you would like to email me some photos to support@canadawidemarine.com and I might be able to advise you.
Thank you i got a little messed up on the nut sequence
They can be confusing for sure. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video, unfortunately I changed the order and installed the thrust washer last. The engine stalled because the propeller was rubbing in the housing. I changed the order and now everything is working correctly, do you think I may have caused some damage to the bearing house?
Without visually inspecting your housing there is no way I can speculate on whether or not any damage was done. If you are unsure a quick visit to a marine mechanic will let you know.
Thanks for watching my videos.
@@CanadaWideMarine Thanks for your reply, I will contact the nearby marine workshop located in the Stockholm archipelago. :) Good luck with videos.
Thank you sir
ماهو رقم المروحة المناسب للمحرك 60 فو رستروك قاربي طوله 18 قدم وعرضه 6 قدم
Hello guys, I bought a boat with an old Yamaha outboard 2-stroke engine built in 1983 50HP Model: 6F4 and I can't find a parts list or repair instructions. This engine is not listed anywhere. I'm desperate, someone please help me. Thanks in advance
Try crowley marine they atleast have diagrams for all the yamaha models
I sure would not use a cutting dike to bend over the shear pin--make that a plier, IMO.
Interesting comment @Jmichael, Why would you not use the side cutters?
@@CanadaWideMarine Well I can see you know what you are doing, and no doubt did not squeeze too hard--but you are using a cutting tool to grasp the pin, that's all I was saying. Any instruction would not doubt not recommend a cutting tool.
Why does Yamaha recommend 46 ft lbs of torque if it doesn't require much torque to hold the nut on? Seems a little shady. Always go by the manufacturers recommend torque specification. Otherwise you could find yourself missing a prop.
I am shocked that the Canadian Prime Minister has not banned those offensively colored props. Does anyone know what the Prop's pronouns are?
Don't give him any ideas 🤣🤣🤣