I'm 14 and I have the professional precision adjust, it's awesome!!! I get hair whittling edges on my knives but I haven't tried to sharpen a broad head before. I also hunt for deer and got my first deer with a compound bow with ram cat broad heads, and the arrow went right through and stuck in the ground, what's interesting is my dad got to see the arrow go through the other side from his tree stand. I also do leather work and write in very nice cursive 😂 I wrote (a quick brown fox jumps over the lazy dog ) around 600 times in a note book to get pristine hand writing 😂
I took a deer this past season with a kudupoint total arrow weight 620gr entry was through the spine and exit was through the scapula. I was an instant believer in real man arrows and single bevel, thanks to you and the ashby studies. Thanks for all your info.
It’s very satisfying getting super sharp edges on your own. I sharpen heads for the 4 hunters in my house so I sharpen a lot of heads every year. And we practice with them so they’re getting touched up.
Hey Troy. To answer your question about broadheads that have a concave curve profile (like Kudu Point Contour etc. Heads) it's called the "Stay Sharp Guide C". It's a 3d printed piece of plastic. It has rollers, and is adjustable for different bevel angles. Is been a while since I bought mine, but I think it was about $30. The RUclips channel is called the "Innovative Outdoorsman" where he shows you how to use his broadhead guides. I used to use a Lansky guide for my knives and broadheads. I bought a worksharp precision adjust elite a year or two ago, and love it. They are good units. Pricey, but worth the money. As always, another excellent video with quality content, and very informative.
So internal curves and external curves? Worksharp wins! Knives, broadheads, everything in one package. From what I understand you have to buy multiple jigs from a bunch of companies. Eventually you spend more $$ and you can't sharpen knives.
@RanchFairy internal curves (concave) work with the guide I referenced above. It's just a 3d printed piece of plastic. Nothing like the quality piece of machinery that is the worksharp, of course. I absolutely love my precision adjust elite. When I got it, I went through a sharpening spree and even did all of the kitchen knives. Similar to the Lansky I've owned for 15+ years, but worksharp definitely does it better. I use the ceramic rod on the back of the sharpening jig handle on concave heads, too. But since it doesn't have different rods (320, 400, 600 etc.) I only use it for touch ups. The "Guide C" I've had for a couple years, and you're right. It only gets used for certain types of broadheads. I use the worksharp literally for everything else.
Good information, as I get older I dont mind the price of good tools that save me time and get great results. Getting back to having fun faster ! LOL, but its a truth of life.
For the back side I would just take the stone by hand and run it flat to break the burr off. It doesn’t take much and it’s fairly easy. The sharpening is being done on the edge side the back side is just about removing the burr.
Well done Troy. Nice video. Suggestion for burr removal, small addition to method shown, is to run a high grit stone flat along the back side of the sharp edge. Will push the burr up and can further reduce with more light strokes as you've shown. Cheers, Dozier
I got the Precision adjust elite. I haven't sharpened my Magnus single bevels yet (dont have my arrows yet so im in no rush) but I have sharpened some very dull knives on it. WOW. I'm impressed. I learned to sharpen in woodshop class in highschool so I understand the science. I didn't even read the instructions or watch a video and I was sharpening with the worksharp in minutes.
On the example blade, would it have been better to remove the blade from the ferrule first? No clearance concerns then. Also could get a flatter profile when doing the backside of the blade. If the screws are “Loctited” in then I get it. I know it’s splitting hairs, but literally sharpening to splitting hairs is what you preach! Great video!
There's always you always make it stupid simple for us guys that have to look at it a couple times thank you for the information I will have to jump on the work Sharp site
@@SaddleHunter well, once I played with it for a little bit I was able to restore my grizzly stick, broadheads back to razor sharp condition. I like the fact that it comes with the course stones as well so that you can totally rebuild from scratch if you have to.
I take the stone carrage off the tower and lay it flat on the back side to remove the burr without making a micro bevel. Not sure that it makes that much of a difference but it's one idea.
I am a Magnus Stinger fan and I am very intrigued by their new single bevel, but I am one of those hated crossbow hunters and I am curious if the faster crossbow speeds will affect bolt flight more than my double bevels do. Once I paper tune my bolts I don't have any trouble with regular fixed blades.
Great video Troy, very informative. I was thinking maybe to get the backside of the bevel you could just remove it from the furrel to get a lower angle.
I also have the work sharp what I've been doing on the backside is take the holder out and hold the stone in one hand and hold the broadhead in the holder with the edge longways and flat to the stone seems to work good and it's pretty easy just a suggestion
Hi, Troy, i dont have a lot of money for a good target so i shoot into the worst possible foam target and its a pain pulling the arrows out, its literally an exercise and after a couple dozen arrows i'm exhausted and i've got blisters on my palms. So i heard from some sports guys that they lube their arrows so that they would come out of the foam easier, and i had some kind of flight rail "wax" lube for crossbows at hand so i lubed up an arrow with it and shot it into the foam and the arrow penetrated about twice as deep. Now i know we dont hunt foam, but i've been thinking next time you have a pig carcass "for science" maybe you can lube up the arrow and the broadhead with string wax or something like that and shoot it at the pig carcass, and make that arrow have a serious disadvantage, for example make it very light and with a terrible dull broadhead, maybe low poundage on the bow, i'd be very curious to see a test like that.
Hey Troy those really curved heads would probably be best with hand stones and sand paper. Most of these type of jigs again most do not get those angles very well.
So, I've been making my way though your vids and picked up one of these sharpeners(as if I needed another🙄🤣) but why not trace the ferrell with a sharpie and then remove it to place the blade in the jig to allow you to lower the angle? Not going to matter that much?
I could use some help. I'm all in on the heavy FOC idea but I shoot a 28.5 draw 100lb ultra speed bow. I am worried about how heavy of a broadhead / point I can safely shoot. I feel like I may be chasing my tail going heavier and heavier on the shaft requiring a heavier broadhead? I have been shooting a 400 gr. -425 gr. total arow weight. I have tried just about every fixed and mechanical broadhead and always run into one issue or another that disqualifies them. This was my first year elk hunting, I have only hunted whitetails before and have almost always gotten pass throughs even with double shoulder hits on deer. I shot my bull at 45 yds with a Grim Reaper 3 blade expandible. I hit the far shoulder and just barely got a pass through but the blades never deployed. I basically ran a field point through it and just happened to hit the arteries right at the top of the hart so he only made it a few feet but I'm never shooting another expandible again, a fraction of an inch left or right and I never find that bull. I'm sold on these single bevel fixed blade heads I just don't know what I can get away on head weight, with without things blowing up in my face. The obvious answer would be to get rid of my ridiculous ass bow but I love this thing so not gonna happen. I just need some solid advice on what arrows, and a rang of head weights to start with?
You have chosen a significant outlier for aerodynamic principles. That's on you and I have zero experience at that draw weight. I DO KNOW from hundreds of emails, that 80# people have issues with tuning. So you're out beyond that. So we have to at least try!! I'd look at my ordering and arrow tuning playlist. You're probably going to need a 150 or 200 spine arrow running 100 insert and 125 point / maybe 150. I promise you - you're not finding any answers in the shops or the message boards or you wouldn't be talking to me. (we don't have to act like we've spoken......)
If you lay the back of a single bevel on the end grain of a piece of hard wood it will pull the bur doesn't remove any metal or change the angle works for me might be worth a try
I found that if you put it in a vise on a short arrow and use a round file for the edge and flat for the flats, than a round stone and flat stone, then stroppy and very nice.
I check every single broadhead I plan to shoot on paper. If it drags a bit...(let's say it's out of the package - new). I strop it. first. Usually makes a big difference
@@calisubs6509 nope - those VPA guys should be able to help ya….oh wait - they don’t even know a damn thing about sharpening or bevel angles? Call Jeff Stringer at VPA and ask for his help on sharpening
Thanks for the reply. I was able to cut S shapes in paper using the KME setup. Just took an excessive amount of work to get to that sharpness. Was hoping the Work Sharp was the save all.
Are we not worried about removing material from the broadhead, and therefore changing the weight of the tip? It seems to me that removing material via sharpening would change the flight of the broadhead by changing the weight of the tip. I’d love to know the answer to this question, I’m still new and getting into this. Love your content. Thanks for doing the research.
The amount of material you take off is not as big of a concern as a dull broadhead is. I use the worksharp on new broadheads before I take them hunting to make sure they are scary sharp in my quiver. I’m not good enough to notice if one is a tiny bit different based on the sharpening.
WOWOWOWOOWWOOWWOWOWOWO I can't decide if this is a real response or a smart ass response........ Broadheads have to be sharp. It is essential. If you're a smart ass. Then the amount of weight you take out of the broadhead.....you're not that good. The internet trolls have you believing that 1-2 grains will adjust the arrow flight. That sucks.
Instead of flipping it and cutting the burr at an angle, you can just put your stone flat on the back side and slide it the length of the stone a couple times that way the back remains perfectly flat. Works good too
@@mikeguy9668 Ive been playing with this. At the end of the day, CONSISTENCY, on the edge is the key. Even if we back bevel it. The Worksharp holds the exact same bevel. So the edge is excellent. If you do flat, that's fine. I hand sharpened for years and got pretty good at it. But man, I can't beat this thing. So here we go! Plus this tool really helps everyone and that's what my channel is about. Not me It's about helping everyone increase their lethality.
Hey Troy, just curious if one of those sharpeners can grasp the bleeder vanes on Magnus black hornet ser, 125grn. If you can show that it works I'll donate to the gas fund. 😁
I shoot kudu points and it's like anything else... it just takes gettin use to sharpening em. I can get em nasty sharp with a small round diamond sharpener. Stropping it is real easy tho
I got the elite instead of the pro and i cannot get the angle high enough above 30 degrees to get the edge of the blade on my alien archery matrix ex sbt heads. Took the ferrules off and still couldnt get it right. Does the pro version have more adjustment?
Just look at ur heads and see what side the grind is on that'll tell u what bevel u have or what ur lookin at when ur purchasing them on packs that don't tell ya
20 yards tune after couple clicks right ....That head and practice point stacked. 30 yards 4 inches left couple clicks. Next shot in the dirt . Looked like head was trying to steer! 3 blazer vanes not enough?
@@jamesaustin2122 Arrow spine most likely - vanes don’t stabilize arrows as the sole solution. Its the whole arrow and vanes Or a littany of things - Troy@ranchfairy.com Send me your whole setup.
I have strickland Helix 150s, they sell a tool to sharpen it but nowhere near what you get. Any tips? Or anyone else that may have experience with them?
I don't understand the benefits of a rounded edge broadhead. Based on Ashby studies...as I interpret it, I would imagine that the rounded edge while increasing the cutting area it also reduces the mechanical advantage as discussed in the Natal study....lol, plus it's a pain to sharpen.
It's missaia broadhead single bevel broadhead its a hard broadhead to sharpen but it can be shaped I use the 200 grains you can use any thing that will sherpen anything thing I use DMT diamond 💎 pads no matter how long you have been sharping broadheads if you are not paying attention you will mess one up they are a excellent broadhead The way the ranch Fair is a excellent way to do on also he since I have been watching Mister Faller he has always put out very good information they are a hard broadhead head to sharpen but it can be done key is just pay attention when you sharpen them and I'm saying because I have messed a few up myself so matter how you choose to sherpen them just pay attention when you do so exactly videos
I’m not sure but he has a video how to sharpen that conclaves style broadhead. It’s not about him but the folks that could use the knowledge how to sharpen their heads so they kill better.
Its alot more expensive but the Wicked Edge system is far superior to the Work Sharp. I love knives and I guarantee it's faster to sharpen the broadhead.
I'm a professional knife sharpener with a business. I'm asking if you want to talk with me bout some maybe great ideas for your broadheads. Let me know.
Spoon shaped broad heads are not a new thing. Medieval archers of England used them mind you they weren’t single bevel and some of them ended up in a barb at the end. They didn’t want the recipient of the arrow to be able to remove them. Dare I say that anyone who has used wood chisels should be able to sharpen them on their whetstone. Having passed my comment I won’t ever use broad heads as here in the UK it is illegal to use bows for hunting so all I’ll ever use is field points.
I'm 14 and I have the professional precision adjust, it's awesome!!! I get hair whittling edges on my knives but I haven't tried to sharpen a broad head before. I also hunt for deer and got my first deer with a compound bow with ram cat broad heads, and the arrow went right through and stuck in the ground, what's interesting is my dad got to see the arrow go through the other side from his tree stand. I also do leather work and write in very nice cursive 😂 I wrote (a quick brown fox jumps over the lazy dog ) around 600 times in a note book to get pristine hand writing 😂
I took a deer this past season with a kudupoint total arrow weight 620gr entry was through the spine and exit was through the scapula. I was an instant believer in real man arrows and single bevel, thanks to you and the ashby studies. Thanks for all your info.
It’s very satisfying getting super sharp edges on your own. I sharpen heads for the 4 hunters in my house so I sharpen a lot of heads every year. And we practice with them so they’re getting touched up.
Hey Troy. To answer your question about broadheads that have a concave curve profile (like Kudu Point Contour etc. Heads) it's called the "Stay Sharp Guide C". It's a 3d printed piece of plastic. It has rollers, and is adjustable for different bevel angles. Is been a while since I bought mine, but I think it was about $30. The RUclips channel is called the "Innovative Outdoorsman" where he shows you how to use his broadhead guides.
I used to use a Lansky guide for my knives and broadheads. I bought a worksharp precision adjust elite a year or two ago, and love it. They are good units. Pricey, but worth the money.
As always, another excellent video with quality content, and very informative.
So internal curves and external curves?
Worksharp wins! Knives, broadheads, everything in one package. From what I understand you have to buy multiple jigs from a bunch of companies. Eventually you spend more $$ and you can't sharpen knives.
@RanchFairy internal curves (concave) work with the guide I referenced above. It's just a 3d printed piece of plastic. Nothing like the quality piece of machinery that is the worksharp, of course. I absolutely love my precision adjust elite. When I got it, I went through a sharpening spree and even did all of the kitchen knives. Similar to the Lansky I've owned for 15+ years, but worksharp definitely does it better. I use the ceramic rod on the back of the sharpening jig handle on concave heads, too. But since it doesn't have different rods (320, 400, 600 etc.) I only use it for touch ups. The "Guide C" I've had for a couple years, and you're right. It only gets used for certain types of broadheads. I use the worksharp literally for everything else.
Great info. Both of you.
Good information, as I get older I dont mind the price of good tools that save me time and get great results.
Getting back to having fun faster ! LOL, but its a truth of life.
"How do I sharpen the curved ones?" HA! Good stuff Troy... I love Work Sharp products. Thanks for showing me a new tool I need.
For the back side I would just take the stone by hand and run it flat to break the burr off. It doesn’t take much and it’s fairly easy. The sharpening is being done on the edge side the back side is just about removing the burr.
Well done Troy. Nice video. Suggestion for burr removal, small addition to method shown, is to run a high grit stone flat along the back side of the sharp edge. Will push the burr up and can further reduce with more light strokes as you've shown. Cheers, Dozier
I got the Precision adjust elite. I haven't sharpened my Magnus single bevels yet (dont have my arrows yet so im in no rush) but I have sharpened some very dull knives on it. WOW. I'm impressed. I learned to sharpen in woodshop class in highschool so I understand the science. I didn't even read the instructions or watch a video and I was sharpening with the worksharp in minutes.
@@Jonnydeerhunter
They are great
Out standing Troy keep up the good work
I was just wondering about this yesterday I just got my worksharp and ordered my magness single bevels
Great video! I purchased my single bevels from Magnus a few months ago. Will be purchasing this from Work Sharp!
Good stuff troy🎉 like always!
I got 2 package yesterday waiting on this video
Another great video
On the example blade, would it have been better to remove the blade from the ferrule first? No clearance concerns then. Also could get a flatter profile when doing the backside of the blade. If the screws are “Loctited” in then I get it. I know it’s splitting hairs, but literally sharpening to splitting hairs is what you preach! Great video!
Going lower than the set bevel by removing the ferrule would reset the whole bevel
Now if it was 20 degree bevel - sure - that would be the solution
I remove the blades when sharpening my cleaver heads on the worksharp. I find it keeps the bevel more consistent from end to end.
There's always you always make it stupid simple for us guys that have to look at it a couple times thank you for the information I will have to jump on the work Sharp site
I've spent a lot of fruitless hours trying to figure this out and then POOF. Worksharp.
I just bought the Precision Pro With gift cards from Christmas for the purpose of sharpening my broadheads
And what’s your take bud?
@@SaddleHunter well, once I played with it for a little bit I was able to restore my grizzly stick, broadheads back to razor sharp condition. I like the fact that it comes with the course stones as well so that you can totally rebuild from scratch if you have to.
What are the chances…I literally bought this sharpener last week for my pocket knives. Works pretty good
I take the stone carrage off the tower and lay it flat on the back side to remove the burr without making a micro bevel. Not sure that it makes that much of a difference but it's one idea.
Lansky has a curved blade set of sharpening stones for hawkbill blades. They work great for Simmons broadhead if you want a guide to sharpen them
Sweet video and great sharpness. Thank the Lord!😊
I am a Magnus Stinger fan and I am very intrigued by their new single bevel, but I am one of those hated crossbow hunters and I am curious if the faster crossbow speeds will affect bolt flight more than my double bevels do. Once I paper tune my bolts I don't have any trouble with regular fixed blades.
Awesome stuff!
Great video Troy, very informative. I was thinking maybe to get the backside of the bevel you could just remove it from the furrel to get a lower angle.
I also have the work sharp what I've been doing on the backside is take the holder out and hold the stone in one hand and hold the broadhead in the holder with the edge longways and flat to the stone seems to work good and it's pretty easy just a suggestion
Hi, Troy, i dont have a lot of money for a good target so i shoot into the worst possible foam target and its a pain pulling the arrows out, its literally an exercise and after a couple dozen arrows i'm exhausted and i've got blisters on my palms. So i heard from some sports guys that they lube their arrows so that they would come out of the foam easier, and i had some kind of flight rail "wax" lube for crossbows at hand so i lubed up an arrow with it and shot it into the foam and the arrow penetrated about twice as deep. Now i know we dont hunt foam, but i've been thinking next time you have a pig carcass "for science" maybe you can lube up the arrow and the broadhead with string wax or something like that and shoot it at the pig carcass, and make that arrow have a serious disadvantage, for example make it very light and with a terrible dull broadhead, maybe low poundage on the bow, i'd be very curious to see a test like that.
Hey Troy those really curved heads would probably be best with hand stones and sand paper. Most of these type of jigs again most do not get those angles very well.
So, I've been making my way though your vids and picked up one of these sharpeners(as if I needed another🙄🤣) but why not trace the ferrell with a sharpie and then remove it to place the blade in the jig to allow you to lower the angle? Not going to matter that much?
@@lovetogun3611 because then you have to cut alot more steel off the edge
I could use some help. I'm all in on the heavy FOC idea but I shoot a 28.5 draw 100lb ultra speed bow. I am worried about how heavy of a broadhead / point I can safely shoot. I feel like I may be chasing my tail going heavier and heavier on the shaft requiring a heavier broadhead? I have been shooting a 400 gr. -425 gr. total arow weight.
I have tried just about every fixed and mechanical broadhead and always run into one issue or another that disqualifies them. This was my first year elk hunting, I have only hunted whitetails before and have almost always gotten pass throughs even with double shoulder hits on deer. I shot my bull at 45 yds with a Grim Reaper 3 blade expandible. I hit the far shoulder and just barely got a pass through but the blades never deployed. I basically ran a field point through it and just happened to hit the arteries right at the top of the hart so he only made it a few feet but I'm never shooting another expandible again, a fraction of an inch left or right and I never find that bull.
I'm sold on these single bevel fixed blade heads I just don't know what I can get away on head weight, with without things blowing up in my face. The obvious answer would be to get rid of my ridiculous ass bow but I love this thing so not gonna happen. I just need some solid advice on what arrows, and a rang of head weights to start with?
You have chosen a significant outlier for aerodynamic principles. That's on you and I have zero experience at that draw weight.
I DO KNOW from hundreds of emails, that 80# people have issues with tuning. So you're out beyond that.
So we have to at least try!! I'd look at my ordering and arrow tuning playlist. You're probably going to need a 150 or 200 spine arrow running 100 insert and 125 point / maybe 150.
I promise you - you're not finding any answers in the shops or the message boards or you wouldn't be talking to me.
(we don't have to act like we've spoken......)
you poor child
If you lay the back of a single bevel on the end grain of a piece of hard wood it will pull the bur doesn't remove any metal or change the angle works for me might be worth a try
I found that if you put it in a vise on a short arrow and use a round file for the edge and flat for the flats, than a round stone and flat stone, then stroppy and very nice.
That sharpener is bad ass. Do you sharpen broadheads or pass on the strop right out the box?
I check every single broadhead I plan to shoot on paper. If it drags a bit...(let's say it's out of the package - new). I strop it. first.
Usually makes a big difference
Question??? On this worksharp, can it sharpen a 35 degree single bevel VPA? Looks like it could go steeper than 30.
Thanks for what you do.
@@calisubs6509 nope - those VPA guys should be able to help ya….oh wait - they don’t even know a damn thing about sharpening or bevel angles?
Call Jeff Stringer at VPA and ask for his help on sharpening
Thanks for the reply. I was able to cut S shapes in paper using the KME setup. Just took an excessive amount of work to get to that sharpness. Was hoping the Work Sharp was the save all.
Are we not worried about removing material from the broadhead, and therefore changing the weight of the tip? It seems to me that removing material via sharpening would change the flight of the broadhead by changing the weight of the tip. I’d love to know the answer to this question, I’m still new and getting into this. Love your content. Thanks for doing the research.
The amount of material you take off is not as big of a concern as a dull broadhead is. I use the worksharp on new broadheads before I take them hunting to make sure they are scary sharp in my quiver. I’m not good enough to notice if one is a tiny bit different based on the sharpening.
WOWOWOWOOWWOOWWOWOWOWO
I can't decide if this is a real response or a smart ass response........
Broadheads have to be sharp.
It is essential.
If you're a smart ass. Then the amount of weight you take out of the broadhead.....you're not that good. The internet trolls have you believing that 1-2 grains will adjust the arrow flight. That sucks.
Instead of flipping it and cutting the burr at an angle, you can just put your stone flat on the back side and slide it the length of the stone a couple times that way the back remains perfectly flat. Works good too
Yes you can!!
@@RanchFairy I haven't seen a difference in performance though
@@mikeguy9668 Ive been playing with this. At the end of the day, CONSISTENCY, on the edge is the key. Even if we back bevel it. The Worksharp holds the exact same bevel. So the edge is excellent.
If you do flat, that's fine. I hand sharpened for years and got pretty good at it. But man, I can't beat this thing. So here we go!
Plus this tool really helps everyone and that's what my channel is about.
Not me
It's about helping everyone increase their lethality.
Troy,
Do you think the Work Sharp could sharpen/hold the Cutthroat Single Bevel heads
yes
Works sharp needs to make round stones for the convex edge
GREAT VIDEOS!
A little trivia. KME got their start with a broad-head sharpener.
Have you ever used one? Kinda curious. Cheers.
I have them - they are excellent.
Not for curved.
Has Magnus put these broadheads out yet? I can't find them. Not even on their website.
they are up on the website. At least a few days ago they were. Initial demand was very strong.
The reason the burr pulls the ink/dye to the other side is because the burr is porus. It's almost like doing a dye penetrant examination.
You made me smarter!!!
Now available on the Magnus website. Not a bad price either.
How do u sharpen bladed single bevel heads?
Hey Troy, just curious if one of those sharpeners can grasp the bleeder vanes on Magnus black hornet ser, 125grn. If you can show that it works I'll donate to the gas fund. 😁
I’m working on that - but no is the answer
I haven’t found an easy way. But if You’re. Not gonna sharpen main blade - order new of both
Main blades are scaples@@RanchFairy
I shoot kudu points and it's like anything else... it just takes gettin use to sharpening em. I can get em nasty sharp with a small round diamond sharpener. Stropping it is real easy tho
Allo from Québec Canada for low budget the 320/600and ceramic good to make hair pop Sharp
Woo, first one here! Great video!
I must’ve been number two then because when I clicked the video said no views yet. Cool video and nice job.
You can sharpen the concave blade edges by wraping sandpaper around something round. I do it on knife serrations
The old ceramic V-sticks work great on em
I got the elite instead of the pro and i cannot get the angle high enough above 30 degrees to get the edge of the blade on my alien archery matrix ex sbt heads. Took the ferrules off and still couldnt get it right. Does the pro version have more adjustment?
@@keltonblack762
You bought 40 degree angle broadheads
It only does to 30
@@RanchFairy Right, Im asking if the pro version can go higher? it looks like it can go further than the 30 degree mark.
@@keltonblack762
No
@@RanchFairy Thanks sir!
@@keltonblack762 no
My arrows spin left, the magnus single bevel doesn't specify which side are those. Does the box says if they are for left or right spin?
Right
Just look at ur heads and see what side the grind is on that'll tell u what bevel u have or what ur lookin at when ur purchasing them on packs that don't tell ya
Just buy right clamp to spin right with right bevel 😊
Right
20 yards tune after couple clicks right ....That head and practice point stacked. 30 yards 4 inches left couple clicks. Next shot in the dirt . Looked like head was trying to steer! 3 blazer vanes not enough?
@@jamesaustin2122
Arrow spine most likely - vanes don’t stabilize arrows as the sole solution. Its the whole arrow and vanes
Or a littany of things -
Troy@ranchfairy.com
Send me your whole setup.
I have strickland Helix 150s, they sell a tool to sharpen it but nowhere near what you get. Any tips? Or anyone else that may have experience with them?
Watch some videos from innovative outdoorsman. He does the helix and Ludis style head.
@@michaelschnitzer4054 thank you!
I don't understand the benefits of a rounded edge broadhead. Based on Ashby studies...as I interpret it, I would imagine that the rounded edge while increasing the cutting area it also reduces the mechanical advantage as discussed in the Natal study....lol, plus it's a pain to sharpen.
You ask this on a sharpening video?
@@RanchFairy well yeah...not seeing the benefit of the had work.
Hey Troy. How do you sharpen those curved blades that go out?😂😂. Yes I watched the whole video😊😂...
Oh you helped my metrics by .0000000987176363%.
Bless you my son
😂 😆 🤭
Doesn’t the handle have a ceramic rod on top. That will sharpen recurve and serrated edges.
It's missaia broadhead single bevel broadhead its a hard broadhead to sharpen but it can be shaped I use the 200 grains you can use any thing that will sherpen anything thing I use DMT diamond 💎 pads no matter how long you have been sharping broadheads if you are not paying attention you will mess one up they are a excellent broadhead The way the ranch Fair is a excellent way to do on also he since I have been watching Mister Faller he has always put out very good information they are a hard broadhead head to sharpen but it can be done key is just pay attention when you sharpen them and I'm saying because I have messed a few up myself so matter how you choose to sherpen them just pay attention when you do so exactly videos
Innovative outdoorsman makes a guide for those broadheads.
I don’t give a hoot in hell. Isn’t he a criminal?
I’m not sure but he has a video how to sharpen that conclaves style broadhead. It’s not about him but the folks that could use the knowledge how to sharpen their heads so they kill better.
Concave style. Helix/kudu style.
Staysharp makes an awesome affordable jig kit for the opposite curve broadheads like simmons. Just information for anyone curious
The best way I've found to sharpen the inward curved stuff is a chainsaw file wrapped in sandpaper
Try a set of ceramic V-sticks
Hot soapy water will clean up porcelain easy
Alô um fam brasileiro 😊
Its alot more expensive but the Wicked Edge system is far superior to the Work Sharp. I love knives and I guarantee it's faster to sharpen the broadhead.
I'm a professional knife sharpener with a business. I'm asking if you want to talk with me bout some maybe great ideas for your broadheads. Let me know.
Take the furrel off and make your life easy
The main bevel angle is above the ferrule. Don't remove and it's easier. If the bevel was lower than the ferrule - yes of Course.
For the algorithm 👍🤣😂🤣😂🏹🐷😵
*Promo sm*
💪🏽🇺🇸🏹
Spoon shaped broad heads are not a new thing. Medieval archers of England used them mind you they weren’t single bevel and some of them ended up in a barb at the end. They didn’t want the recipient of the arrow to be able to remove them. Dare I say that anyone who has used wood chisels should be able to sharpen them on their whetstone. Having passed my comment I won’t ever use broad heads as here in the UK it is illegal to use bows for hunting so all I’ll ever use is field points.
Troy do you think you can do a better job your just not working to your capabilities. 😂😂