This exact thing happened to me today 3rd time out with my ul 19 on 6s. I came home found this video and had it fixed and back together in under an hour. Your the man! Thank you for all your videos
Your statement on checking Temps....watching your videos I immediately went and got an inferred temp reader at harbor freight to start checking Temps in my UL-19 that I have also had overheating issues with. So just doing that alone has taught me more than some of these fb groups that I'm on. New to the hobby so I've got a bunch more to learn. Don't sweat the haters. You're actually teaching some of us. Thanks for all your videos!
Big B, you have the BEST ,,, hands on videos on the tube! You share allot.., lots of people act like they need to keep everything a SECERT... But not you, your HELPING ALL OF US ! Thanks so much, you DA MAN !! :-))
Just bought a ul-19 boat made a 15 minute run and the wires did the exact same thing as yours did bought a new motor exactly the same and it did 5 minutes into it so now I'm gonna try it your way thank you for the video!! Dynamite should be responsible for this issue it seems to be common!!
I've had same issue with my dynamite ul motor, hot a new one from hh & then did what u did there took all heatshrink off ,& boom, found a desoldered wire. Great videos brother, keep em coming.
Same problem, wire got to hot and solder let go. I did order a new motor, but going to buy a solder gun, flux and solder. Wish me luck doing this this weekend. Thanks Big B.
Horizon will never fix the problem. In very small print in the manual it clearly says to de-prop for 6s sooo run 4 s with a big prop and go fairly fast or slower with 6s and smaller prop !!! Stock boat with 6s =☹️💥🔥 and 🖕🏻to horizon … But 6s on the side of the box with a big blue beautiful rocket ship now that’s what sells and make no mistake so do replacement parts and accessories. Not a fan of horizon but they hold the market for now so we are stuck with them !!!
So I soldered 2 of the 3 wires this morning. Ran her like a top & then the 3rd wire unsoldered itself at the lake. Headed home to solder again lol. Should of just done all 3 first time.
So I soldered 2 of the 3 wires this morning. Ran her like a top & then the 3rd wire unsoldered itself at the lake. Headed home to solder again lol. Should of just done all 3 first time.
So I soldered 2 of the 3 wires this morning. Ran her like a top & then the 3rd wire unsoldered itself at the lake. Headed home to solder again lol. Should of just done all 3 first time.
These motors usually have a crimped wire connection to the second wire. Odd yours doesn't. You're doing a great job sir and I've been running fast electric boats since the Ni-Cad days.
Hi mate. Silver solder will fix the problem.. your starter motor in your car the wires are Silver soldered in because of the temperature and high current running though them. What your done should be OK but if it happens again Silver solder it mate 🦘 👍😁. I watch your channel all the time and you have helped me out heaps 👍👍
Thanks brother. I will definitely give it a shot. The wires de-soldered on the 4th or 5th set of packs, I've got to re solder them back on so I will definitely use silver solder
I know this is old but you just helped me big time i was about to chuck the motor. First run out. With about 1 minute runtime this happened. I was pretty pissed.
Thanks Bigb , just had one go bang in a used Delta force 45 . It's locked up so I replaced it with a SSS 40 92 1650 kv. Didn't even hit the water with it and it went bang. Dam it but the motor is from 2004 ,very old but we'll made boat.
This happened to my first motor in the Veles . They sent me out a new one and I haven’t had a problem since. Horizon is actually pretty good about warranty parts. And usually they are already aware of legitimate issues. The first motor.was coupled wires the second one seems to be one piece. I check my temps regularly as well
I had something similar happen with a different motor. one of the banana/bullet connectors came disconnected it puzzled me for ages cause I took the heat shrink off and all the solder joins looked good and none of them were loose or broken but after I did a continuity test I found that the middle wire had no continuity some how. so I just touched it with the soldering iron and boom good as new.
Great video. Question for you sir. I have the same boat, dual cooling etc.. Mine ran good twice then went to crud, now it will accelerate to full throttle then die. Let off the throttle and get back into it accelerate and it will do it again. Sometimes it will accelerate and all of a sudden back off to half throttle.????? I already switched to a big sea king controller. Same thing. Any ideas ? Thanks
You may have a similar situation where a high-resistance solder joint at the motor could cause erroneous/intermittent back EMF impulses (the stuff the ESC uses to know where the motor is). Give it the IRONCLAD inspection/
I was just thinking... everything is calibrated, different speed controller, tried a different transmitter only thing left is the motor. What should I replace it with? Thanks for everything guys.
@@jefferyferguson9232 Look at you motor wires like Big B did first. The motor may be salvageable. If not, there are countless options available. In the small boats, I like to go cheap because I can. As you go up in size, I like to go up in quality of components to deal with bigger everything. If I were building an all-out speed monster, I'd use one of Steve's motors, a monster controller, and top-notch batteries. Otherwise, you could go the Big B route and duplicate what he's done here. His UL runs very respectably (just watch out for turtles...) Lastly, you could just replace the existing motor with like for like.
Oh man I just installed 10mm cc bullets, night and day literally dropped esc motor and wire Temps 30-50deg. Crazy how much difference a bullets twill make
Man Big B your channel is really growing when I subscribed you where around 500 or so now almost 4000 your getting out there and your channel kicks ass it's all good content I learn every time I watch you keep it up brother would love to see some boat drag racing lol 🤣😆
Maybe I can make a drag race happen some time in the near future. 🤔 thanks for sticking around brother, I can't believe how much the channel has grown thanks to subscribers like you. 👊 build it IRONCLAD BROTHER
Run these boats on 6 s without running a smaller prop or considerable cooling upgrades and melt away your connections. Yep min did the same thing . I have many of the same boats you do and have done a lot of the mods you have but in diff ways I also made a system to cool the caps and ec5 connectors . Hit me up all send you some info . Run 6s @ 71 mph dead run through a full pack non stop. that is the definition of iron clan ? . We should share some of our knowledge with each other. Love the vids keep them coming.
I took mine out today and 3 laps in it just died with full batteries. I unplugged the batteries and re-connected and it was fine. I did have to kayak out to the middle of the lake to get it though. I will check the connections but I didn't run it long enough to overheat it and wasn't going full throttle yet either.
Funny with the smoke bro. You should have wacked on those heavy wires when you had the chance, oh well next time. Just a couple of things if you want, Always try & do a mechanical join on your copper wires by twisting or clamping or even pushing the braids into each other and twisting a bit just so your not relying on just solder to hold. (I know its a tight space to work) Also clean off your flux to stop it corroding later & and even lacquer it if you want to go all the way, and last try lead free solder which has a higher melting point. Nice work m8 cheers from NZ. ps Big B fastest heat shrinker in the west !
I usually do it the easy was and drop a few drops on the outside of the bearings and hand spin the shaft/flex so the oil works itself into the bearing.
My Veles 29 with the same power system did it five times.. I replaced it with a TP 3650 2350kv sealed end cap motor. Never had an issue again and the boat is Way WAY FASTER than the old dynamite 2000kv motor. Hard to keep it from taking flight at 3/4 throttle. 100mph plus with just the TP motor upgrade!!!!
Good luck with the maiden. I think it was due to running on 6s with the water jacket pushed to far back on the motor. Make sure your jacket is forward on the motor. Shouldn't have any problems
You can always go bigger on motor wires without fear of creating electrical problems. Opening the endbell as you did is a good work-around to your solution and you did a "Jet Approved" fix. I can get you a small discount on one of Steve's motors when you're ready for the REAL upgrade. Why does that motor have short leads? It must somehow cut manufacturing costs or was just a one-time fluke and that was how the Chinese guy at the factory fixed it so his boss wouldn't beat him with a cane. Constant temp checks is a GOOD thing..... You did get me with the smoker though..... 🤣
Hahaha. "0 knots and alot of smoke c'mon" I was so tempted to put the 10g wire on. Same length. More current "flow" cooler wires. I may upgrade to 10g in the future just to see if wire Temps come down? I may take you up in the nue motor later on. Thanks DOC
@@IRONCLADRC If you go back in your vid, you can see where the guy at the factory had just a small contact surface between the wires, This no doubt created resistance causing enough heat to melt the solder. When you re-did the connection, you had a WHOLE LOT more surface area. That alone should reduce the resistance, and therefore the heat and you should never experience this issue again. There's a reason spacecraft use crimped electrical joints......
I ran the boat today the Temps were much cooler than usual. I believe your 100% correct. The micro rigger is looking good brother 👌 busy today didn't get a chance to comment in the video. Build her ironclad. Oppps jet it out. 👊
Big B, your right, the stock motor ran so hot the wire came undone. I already ordered one. Would you be interested in soldering this for me, of course I'll send payment.
Hi big B, if you're thinking of putting a tunnel fin on the blackjack take a look at your UL19 and check the angle of that one, it's similar with the two spontions and hull tunnel that may give you a good starting point, I watch m5 imformer and he showed something similar were someone hooked up a servo to the fin in front so he can adjust it as he's running ,I thought that was pretty cool just a suggestion ,good luck would love to see it .
@@IRONCLADRC do you know anything about sss 4082 2200 kv, because I put on my ul-19 with seaking 180amps, i press the throttle 5 seconds letter the boat slow downs , it’s like thermal cut off or LVC kick in
Really just calibrating the endpoints rx/tx & esc. Make sure nothing is binding in the driveline, flex cable stuffing tube. strut etc, putting excessive pressure on the motor. Most importantly check the solder joints from the motor to esc make sure there's good contact. Also check the battery solder joint! Check the receiver make sure the receiver is okay, sometimes the receiver will go bad and you not know it. (Shorted out at some point? Check all of that and let me know what you find.
Maybe it's better to put the 5.5mm bullet conectors direct to short wires like on the LMT motors,I have the same motor I'm m curious if it's built the same way, I only ran it with 6s in my boats, very powerful engine really. Thank you for you video ,always very informative👍
Yes it's an extremely powerful motor & I thought about soldering to the stub wires but I'm thinking it will throw off the pules to and from the esc? Idk. I shortened motor wires in the past without success motor got extremely hot hotter than usual
@@IRONCLADRC Insulating the plugs against the motor housings and adjacent plugs would be my greatest concern, but that is a good solution if the mechanics work.
after watching this i have no confidence in TP motors. my leopard motors have failed in the same way, but usually when my set ups overheat. and the motor seems like its not contacting somewhere, as your is...usually i just have to swap out the esc. i seem to have the best luck with rocket motors that are in the 1250kv-1800kv on 6s i have had the most success. i havent had to change out that dynamite 120 a esc or motor in the UL 19. but i have no confidence in it, even with upgraded cooling. i'm fairly certain the ul 19 stock electronics are not going to last long. i've gotten a few runs so far , closely watching the temps...on 6s we shall see. i just take it ez on the full throttle passes
man i love proboat hulls, but the motors radio and esc always gave me problems. so odd the motor leads are soldered like that. they should be long enough to just solder bullets onto and call it a day.
You should try removing the clear enamel coating completely on each strand of the motor wires before resoldering each stator winding group to the lead wires ..any remnant on the winding wires will cause resistance as it did in the middle wire, [ the enamel or shellac as it used be known by is what is creating the resistance and heat build up that desolders the joint ] . Then, once the stator wires are free of that shellac /enamel , use solderable high quailty silver plated butt couplers to mate the stator leads to the wire leads and shrink wrap the joints .You may have to slightly enlarge the motor`s end bell wire holes but not by very much from the looks of the video. Also ...it looks like you are cooking the solder too much , a properly soldered wire should shine like a mirror after it cools with only minor or no visible flux remaining which can easily be cleaned .Your solder joints look like dull aluminum because of the grade of solder and flux since you are not using the proper solder -flux core electronic solder and likely your soldering iron is not heat range adjustable ...both of those factors lead to unsuitable solder joints for high current application. Correct solder ,correct iron , no enamel on any wire strand , butt connectors.....have fun .
@@IRONCLADRC My pleasure you are entirely welcome . I enjoy wathcing your videos ...in my late sixties now , I heve been retired for over 5 year form an engineering career that included electronics . I dabbled in the hobby in my early 20s when gassers were the only way to go fast , I built only one boat an 1978 ATLAS VAN LINES unlimited, money for my formal education was tight so the hobby had to go, never got back in it . My eyes are not what they used to be so getting back into the hobby now is out of the question , watching video from gents like yourself is entertaining enough ...sorry about the misspellings with my glasses on, I think got them all ...hahaha ha ...have fun !!!
Interesting, I wonder if this was a old version/batch of motors from ProBoat being that some have not seen this... Or as you stated most probably contact Horizon and complain to get a new motor and never troubleshoot.. Smoke machine got me though!!!
Jesus guy chill out. You have good suggestions but it does not need to turn some people off. Temps are easy to check and I agree with you . These boats aren't the greatest because there not US made and China is China. So what you pay for these boats is more then there worth. But we get suck in on this hobby and spend money on this hobby because we love it and that's what the hobby is about. Fixing pieces of junk and make them what they should of bin out of the factory. But then again that's what these company's want you to do spend, spend,, spend.But your suggestions is trying not to spend to much. Lol so I thank you.. PS: I HOPE THESE COMPANYS LIKE HH see your video and step up there game because not all of us get into the hobby indept as you do. Like me all I want put batterys in a little maintenance and go have some fun. Speed is not my priority just reliability. Thanks for promoting this info and more importantly the hobby. Respect for you and what you do is ausome! Keep pumping the videos and Thank you.
You might find that those short leads between the motor and the ESC are a tuned length. I’m lead to believe that changing their length will mess up the timing on a brushless motor. Maybe not. What do I know. 😉 And listen, you don’t owe anybody an explanation about checking the temps. If I pushed my boats as hard as you do, I’d be checking too. It’s just common sense.
Yea man I agree on the short wire deal 100% that's why I was scared to upgrade the wire size? Short wires with my experience will heat the motor up big time. I learned my lesson along time ago. Lol. Thanks for watching IRONCLAD RC
@@IRONCLADRC You are exactly right on the wire size. Even if you got the exact same length, the size could change the timing. The motor would probably still run, it just would be quite as powerful and would likely heat up. These brushless motors are more complex than it might seem. At least that my understanding. Have a good one! Love your channel. I learn lots of stuff.
Not having the motor in my hands to look at, it looks like the water jacket is too far toward the shaft. It's not close enough to the wire end and the wires are overheating and your IR gun is not picking it up. Solder joints fail like that when they get close to the melting point of the solder.
I thought that to. I try to run the jacket forward on the motor but to be honest I have to move the jacket back and forth to get the battery's In the boat, so I forget to push it forward from time to time. We need some kinda liquid cooled wire sheaths for the motor wire so they never get hot. Lol
@@IRONCLADRC I think I would mark the outside of the motor exactly where the stator is. Then center the water jacket. How come they don't make a water jacket that covers the whole length of the motor?
Idk ? I tried putting other motor jackets on this motor but this motor is a tad bit larger than all my extra 36mm water jackets, none of the jackets I have fit this motor. First time this happened,that was the first thing I checked, larger jacket.
I ended up putting 10g on to prevent desoldering but it ended up desoldering anyway lol. The one I did in this video is actually still up and running I've got it in my recoil 2
Its actually the motor windings...the size of the drum its kv dont matter in the performance of a motor... however yes the bigger can size will give you more tork and rpms...but be careful on your kv ..kv is actually the winding of the motor..insides..amps and volts..lower voltage the more amps it pulls...if the batteries cant put out the amps guess what melt down.. example have you ever pluged in a table saw with a long cord and the thing keeps blowing fuses...yep not enough amps ...ok.. shorter cord yes helps but it still dont have the amps to run the motor...and the cord gets storming hot...same goes on with these rc motors..ok...like i said kv dont matter the drum will only turn so many rpms..you can take 4 motors same can size different kv they all spin the same rpms...the difference between them is the windings...volts and amps.. important..choose your motor accordingly..so high kv=low volts more amps to run it...to get the rated rpms...lower kv =high volts lower amps to get the rpms..out of it ex..and yes saws are brushless motors also... 😂..poles is about how even you want the motor to run..or performance...4 poles are ok but a 6 pole motor has more magnetic pull..better performance..ex..so with that all said find a middle ground when choosing your motor..your kind of better off with a higher voltage battery less amp draw..ok feel me...small battery is ok for your out of the box boat ok . iron clad would be like i describe..make sense..
If only there's a device that you could connect to all the pieces that you monitor the temperature and have it worthlessly tell you what the temperatures are instead of having to open it every time
@@IRONCLADRC my UL-19 is to be delivered in a couple days. How hard would it be for me to switch to Spektrum Firma 2000kv motor and the 160 Spektrum Firma ESC ? I love the telemetry on my Sonic wake v2. My UL-19 is new in the box. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
I like the content here but I am struggling with your really bad habit of saying everything twice which makes it very hard to watch your videos it’s so annoying that I have had to stop and find a different video to watch I can normally watch pretty much anything so if this is bugging me that much it must be effecting others.
I apologize most of the time I try to cut it out. It's alot of work making these videos and editing. Alot of work. Especially the build/repair videos I have to start then stop ( take 1, take 2, take3 etc) I will work on it. I'm not a professional I just do this for a hobby.
This exact thing happened to me today 3rd time out with my ul 19 on 6s. I came home found this video and had it fixed and back together in under an hour. Your the man! Thank you for all your videos
Glad it helped, hopefully they fix the problem on the v2
Your statement on checking Temps....watching your videos I immediately went and got an inferred temp reader at harbor freight to start checking Temps in my UL-19 that I have also had overheating issues with. So just doing that alone has taught me more than some of these fb groups that I'm on. New to the hobby so I've got a bunch more to learn. Don't sweat the haters. You're actually teaching some of us. Thanks for all your videos!
So glad to hear brother, the temp gun is such a valuable tool and will save you big in the long run. BUILD IT IRONCLAD
@@IRONCLADRC I heard dat!
Oh man, you saved my coming weekend. I Was woanderd why i have to swim und recover my UL19 this week. Thank you man!! ❤
Big B, you have the BEST ,,, hands on videos on the tube! You share allot.., lots of people act like they need to keep everything a SECERT... But not you, your HELPING ALL OF US ! Thanks so much, you DA MAN !! :-))
Thanks, glad I can help. I'll try to make more bench videos.
Just bought a ul-19 boat made a 15 minute run and the wires did the exact same thing as yours did bought a new motor exactly the same and it did 5 minutes into it so now I'm gonna try it your way thank you for the video!! Dynamite should be responsible for this issue it seems to be common!!
It's a really a 4s boat, to run it on 6s you need to prop down
I've had same issue with my dynamite ul motor, hot a new one from hh & then did what u did there took all heatshrink off ,& boom, found a desoldered wire. Great videos brother, keep em coming.
I don't care about what other people think your videos are the bomb I love them your videos have helped me out more than I can say keep it up
Same problem, wire got to hot and solder let go. I did order a new motor, but going to buy a solder gun, flux and solder.
Wish me luck doing this this weekend.
Thanks Big B.
Just got an email from HH requesting info and proof of purchase.
I'll do that tonight.
Big B. Got a newcmotor for ui 19, stock one.
What colors go to what? On the boat.
I’m really glad your doing videos like this, it will help Horizon see these problems, maybe they can fix. Awesome videos BIG B
Horizon will never fix the problem. In very small print in the manual it clearly says to de-prop for 6s sooo run 4 s with a big prop and go fairly fast or slower with 6s and smaller prop !!! Stock boat with 6s =☹️💥🔥 and 🖕🏻to horizon … But 6s on the side of the box with a big blue beautiful rocket ship now that’s what sells and make no mistake so do replacement parts and accessories. Not a fan of horizon but they hold the market for now so we are stuck with them !!!
Great video big B!
I thought I blew my stock UL19 motor as well. Just the soldering came loose. Big help! Thank you!
So I soldered 2 of the 3 wires this morning. Ran her like a top & then the 3rd wire unsoldered itself at the lake. Headed home to solder again lol. Should of just done all 3 first time.
So I soldered 2 of the 3 wires this morning. Ran her like a top & then the 3rd wire unsoldered itself at the lake. Headed home to solder again lol. Should of just done all 3 first time.
So I soldered 2 of the 3 wires this morning. Ran her like a top & then the 3rd wire unsoldered itself at the lake. Headed home to solder again lol. Should of just done all 3 first time.
Dude, I don't even have a boat. I have a notorious 6s and a outcast 6s exb. I think you're videos are great! Thanks for taking time to produce them.
Get a boat and join the boat gang. Lol. Thanks for watching brother. Build it ironclad
These motors usually have a crimped wire connection to the second wire. Odd yours doesn't. You're doing a great job sir and I've been running fast electric boats since the Ni-Cad days.
Thank you for the idea. I may crimp the wire with silver solder. Thanks brother
Hi mate. Silver solder will fix the problem.. your starter motor in your car the wires are Silver soldered in because of the temperature and high current running though them. What your done should be OK but if it happens again Silver solder it mate 🦘 👍😁. I watch your channel all the time and you have helped me out heaps 👍👍
Thanks brother. I will definitely give it a shot. The wires de-soldered on the 4th or 5th set of packs, I've got to re solder them back on so I will definitely use silver solder
I know this is old but you just helped me big time i was about to chuck the motor. First run out. With about 1 minute runtime this happened. I was pretty pissed.
Fair straight forward fix. Glad to help
i,m also glad you make this kind off videos! your videos are great!!
Thanks Bigb , just had one go bang in a used Delta force 45 . It's locked up so I replaced it with a SSS 40 92 1650 kv. Didn't even hit the water with it and it went bang. Dam it but the motor is from 2004 ,very old but we'll made boat.
worth a shot 👌 that sss motor should be boss
This happened to my first motor in the Veles . They sent me out a new one and I haven’t had a problem since. Horizon is actually pretty good about warranty parts. And usually they are already aware of legitimate issues. The first motor.was coupled wires the second one seems to be one piece. I check my temps regularly as well
Thanks brother 👊 I appreciate the info. I liked you boat bash video. BOAT GANG. LOL
@@IRONCLADRC hells yeah boat gang boat gang
Keep checking those temps B. You got me good with the smoke! 😆
Ah haha. Thought you were really getting a show. Lol. Thanks for watching
I had something similar happen with a different motor. one of the banana/bullet connectors came disconnected it puzzled me for ages cause I took the heat shrink off and all the solder joins looked good and none of them were loose or broken but after I did a continuity test I found that the middle wire had no continuity some how. so I just touched it with the soldering iron and boom good as new.
Same thing happened to me on my arrma granite.
Great video. Question for you sir. I have the same boat, dual cooling etc.. Mine ran good twice then went to crud, now it will accelerate to full throttle then die. Let off the throttle and get back into it accelerate and it will do it again. Sometimes it will accelerate and all of a sudden back off to half throttle.????? I already switched to a big sea king controller. Same thing. Any ideas ? Thanks
You may have a similar situation where a high-resistance solder joint at the motor could cause erroneous/intermittent back EMF impulses (the stuff the ESC uses to know where the motor is). Give it the IRONCLAD inspection/
@@Dr_Jet hey, thanks, I didn't where to go at this point. Much respect to you sir.
Do you have the throttle/steering calibrated Rx/tx calibrated? Is there a good connection between the motor & esc?
I was just thinking... everything is calibrated, different speed controller, tried a different transmitter only thing left is the motor. What should I replace it with? Thanks for everything guys.
@@jefferyferguson9232 Look at you motor wires like Big B did first. The motor may be salvageable. If not, there are countless options available. In the small boats, I like to go cheap because I can. As you go up in size, I like to go up in quality of components to deal with bigger everything. If I were building an all-out speed monster, I'd use one of Steve's motors, a monster controller, and top-notch batteries. Otherwise, you could go the Big B route and duplicate what he's done here. His UL runs very respectably (just watch out for turtles...)
Lastly, you could just replace the existing motor with like for like.
Just happened to me. Second time running the boat. Temp was at 114degrees.🤷♂️ should I call proboat about it or just fix it?
Yes sir call pro boT case that's crazy
My club , new members are taught to check Temps after each run. Only thing we use 8mm instead of 5,5 s
Oh man I just installed 10mm cc bullets, night and day literally dropped esc motor and wire Temps 30-50deg. Crazy how much difference a bullets twill make
Glad I've seen this. Happened to me this morning!
Happens real quick &fast
@@IRONCLADRC it does. Mine was running amazingly well - truly hooked up... then nothing. 😫
Man Big B your channel is really growing when I subscribed you where around 500 or so now almost 4000 your getting out there and your channel kicks ass it's all good content I learn every time I watch you keep it up brother would love to see some boat drag racing lol 🤣😆
I see the growth in your channel and a corresponding growth in your understanding of things model boat related. Keep it up Bro!
Maybe I can make a drag race happen some time in the near future. 🤔 thanks for sticking around brother, I can't believe how much the channel has grown thanks to subscribers like you. 👊 build it IRONCLAD BROTHER
Run these boats on 6 s without running a smaller prop or considerable cooling upgrades and melt away your connections. Yep min did the same thing . I have many of the same boats you do and have done a lot of the mods you have but in diff ways I also made a system to cool the caps and ec5 connectors . Hit me up all send you some info . Run 6s @ 71 mph dead run through a full pack non stop. that is the definition of iron clan ? . We should share some of our knowledge with each other. Love the vids keep them coming.
The cap & connector cooling mod sounds pretty interesting. Shoot me an email if you'd like. ironcladedout@gmail.com
I took mine out today and 3 laps in it just died with full batteries. I unplugged the batteries and re-connected and it was fine. I did have to kayak out to the middle of the lake to get it though. I will check the connections but I didn't run it long enough to overheat it and wasn't going full throttle yet either.
Thats a Bummer. Tip, Make sure the prongs on your esc connectors are tight fitting into the battery plug
Great Video Big B. Might have to try to fix my V2 motor
Love the electric boat information. When do you
Cover gas and nitro ?
Unfortunately I don't own a nitro or gas boat sorry. Possibly get one soon? I've had alot of request
Keep doing the great videos. Screw the jerks. You keep being you.
Funny with the smoke bro. You should have wacked on those heavy wires when you had the chance, oh well next time. Just a couple of things if you want, Always try & do a mechanical join on your copper wires by twisting or clamping or even pushing the braids into each other and twisting a bit just so your not relying on just solder to hold. (I know its a tight space to work) Also clean off your flux to stop it corroding later & and even lacquer it if you want to go all the way, and last try lead free solder which has a higher melting point. Nice work m8 cheers from NZ. ps Big B fastest heat shrinker in the west !
Im still trying to get my Sonic to corner like yours but I'm not even close yet that thing is so dailed in, its a beautiful thing.
Thanks for the info brother I was gonna use lead free, but for now I think it will be okay. Build it ironclad
How would you oil the bearings in that brushless motor
I usually do it the easy was and drop a few drops on the outside of the bearings and hand spin the shaft/flex so the oil works itself into the bearing.
My Veles 29 with the same power system did it five times.. I replaced it with a TP 3650 2350kv sealed end cap motor. Never had an issue again and the boat is Way WAY FASTER than the old dynamite 2000kv motor. Hard to keep it from taking flight at 3/4 throttle. 100mph plus with just the TP motor upgrade!!!!
Heck yea I actually considered running that exact same motor, but went with a 40 series instead, still trying to break 90mph my best is 89
I have this motor to but I'm not sure I have this problem I'll check when I run it first time this year
Good luck with the maiden. I think it was due to running on 6s with the water jacket pushed to far back on the motor. Make sure your jacket is forward on the motor. Shouldn't have any problems
@@IRONCLADRC thank you it's unmodified from manufacturer but will see
My Veles 29 sounded he same. I thought the motor was toasted, I will tear it apart and see if this happened. I was also running 6s.
Yea man check the solder you may be able to save it. Good luck brother
@@IRONCLADRC thanks for the response!!
Yea good advice to know keep it up happy boating
You can always go bigger on motor wires without fear of creating electrical problems. Opening the endbell as you did is a good work-around to your solution and you did a "Jet Approved" fix. I can get you a small discount on one of Steve's motors when you're ready for the REAL upgrade. Why does that motor have short leads? It must somehow cut manufacturing costs or was just a one-time fluke and that was how the Chinese guy at the factory fixed it so his boss wouldn't beat him with a cane. Constant temp checks is a GOOD thing.....
You did get me with the smoker though..... 🤣
Hahaha. "0 knots and alot of smoke c'mon" I was so tempted to put the 10g wire on. Same length. More current "flow" cooler wires. I may upgrade to 10g in the future just to see if wire Temps come down?
I may take you up in the nue motor later on. Thanks DOC
@@IRONCLADRC If you go back in your vid, you can see where the guy at the factory had just a small contact surface between the wires, This no doubt created resistance causing enough heat to melt the solder. When you re-did the connection, you had a WHOLE LOT more surface area. That alone should reduce the resistance, and therefore the heat and you should never experience this issue again.
There's a reason spacecraft use crimped electrical joints......
I ran the boat today the Temps were much cooler than usual. I believe your 100% correct. The micro rigger is looking good brother 👌 busy today didn't get a chance to comment in the video. Build her ironclad. Oppps jet it out. 👊
@@IRONCLADRC 😅🤣😂👍
Big B, your right, the stock motor ran so hot the wire came undone. I already ordered one.
Would you be interested in soldering this for me, of course I'll send payment.
Got motor problem myself today, but my problem was that i ripped the whole motor mount loose on 6s testing, and i got my first bathing of the year ;)
What boat were you running?
@@IRONCLADRC Rico 31"
@@IRONCLADRC Uploading a video now from testing with 6s and when the error happend at the end, too choppy water and needs adjustments
@@IRONCLADRC If you watch on my channel, you can now see both maiden runs
I wi check it out. Sorry been super busy today. I'm gonna check it out now
Hi big B, if you're thinking of putting a tunnel fin on the blackjack take a look at your UL19 and check the angle of that one, it's similar with the two spontions and hull tunnel that may give you a good starting point, I watch m5 imformer and he showed something similar were someone hooked up a servo to the fin in front so he can adjust it as he's running ,I thought that was pretty cool just a suggestion ,good luck would love to see it .
Oh man an active winglet would be kick but for sure I appreciate the information brother. I'll use the ul as a guide, thanks
Thank you very much.
Do you not mind if I ask what is the size of the rear bearing on in that motor ?
I have no idea budy
@@IRONCLADRC do you know anything about sss 4082 2200 kv, because I put on my ul-19 with seaking 180amps, i press the throttle 5 seconds letter the boat slow downs , it’s like thermal cut off or LVC kick in
Is the rx/tx calibrated with the esc?
@@IRONCLADRC how do you calibrate seaking 180a
Really just calibrating the endpoints rx/tx & esc.
Make sure nothing is binding in the driveline, flex cable stuffing tube. strut etc, putting excessive pressure on the motor.
Most importantly check the solder joints from the motor to esc make sure there's good contact. Also check the battery solder joint!
Check the receiver make sure the receiver is okay, sometimes the receiver will go bad and you not know it. (Shorted out at some point?
Check all of that and let me know what you find.
Maybe it's better to put the 5.5mm bullet conectors direct to short wires like on the LMT motors,I have the same motor I'm m curious if it's built the same way, I only ran it with 6s in my boats, very powerful engine really.
Thank you for you video ,always very informative👍
Yes it's an extremely powerful motor & I thought about soldering to the stub wires but I'm thinking it will throw off the pules to and from the esc? Idk. I shortened motor wires in the past without success motor got extremely hot hotter than usual
@@IRONCLADRC It was just an idea, a more responsive thread will probably hold up much better now
@@IRONCLADRC Insulating the plugs against the motor housings and adjacent plugs would be my greatest concern, but that is a good solution if the mechanics work.
Have you ever ran that motor on 8 s with a spectrum 160?
No it'll barely take 6s
What motor could I run with the 160 spectrum. I took it out of my blackjack 52 and bought the castle hydra for my 42
after watching this i have no confidence in TP motors. my leopard motors have failed in the same way, but usually when my set ups overheat. and the motor seems like its not contacting somewhere, as your is...usually i just have to swap out the esc. i seem to have the best luck with rocket motors that are in the 1250kv-1800kv on 6s i have had the most success. i havent had to change out that dynamite 120 a esc or motor in the UL 19. but i have no confidence in it, even with upgraded cooling. i'm fairly certain the ul 19 stock electronics are not going to last long. i've gotten a few runs so far , closely watching the temps...on 6s we shall see. i just take it ez on the full throttle passes
Run the stock electronics till they smoke then upgrade.
man i love proboat hulls, but the motors radio and esc always gave me problems. so odd the motor leads are soldered like that. they should be long enough to just solder bullets onto and call it a day.
I thought about soldering bullets directly onto the stub wire, I've had bad luck in the past shortening wires on the motor lots of excessive heat?
@@IRONCLADRC ideally the less solder connections and less extra wire the better. Ive never seen a motor like that tho. That’s a first for me lol
You should try removing the clear enamel coating completely on each strand of the motor wires before resoldering each stator winding group to the lead wires ..any remnant on the winding wires will cause resistance as it did in the middle wire, [ the enamel or shellac as it used be known by is what is creating the resistance and heat build up that desolders the joint ] . Then, once the stator wires are free of that shellac /enamel , use solderable high quailty silver plated butt couplers to mate the stator leads to the wire leads and shrink wrap the joints .You may have to slightly enlarge the motor`s end bell wire holes but not by very much from the looks of the video.
Also ...it looks like you are cooking the solder too much , a properly soldered wire should shine like a mirror after it cools with only minor or no visible flux remaining which can easily be cleaned .Your solder joints look like dull aluminum because of the grade of solder and flux since you are not using the proper solder -flux core electronic solder and likely your soldering iron is not heat range adjustable ...both of those factors
lead to unsuitable solder joints for high current application. Correct solder ,correct iron , no enamel on any wire strand , butt connectors.....have fun .
THANKS FOR THE TIP
@@IRONCLADRC
My pleasure you are entirely welcome . I enjoy wathcing your videos ...in my late sixties now , I heve been retired for over 5 year form an engineering career that included electronics . I dabbled in the hobby in my early 20s when gassers were the only way to go fast , I built only one boat an 1978 ATLAS VAN LINES unlimited, money for my formal education was tight so the hobby had to go, never got back in it . My eyes are not what they used to be so getting back into the hobby now is out of the question , watching video from gents like yourself is entertaining enough ...sorry about the misspellings with my glasses on, I think got them all ...hahaha ha ...have fun !!!
This just happened with my new v2
I have some question. Any way we can chat on phone real quick?
The bullet came unsoldered? The wires out of the motor on my v2 is solid 1 full length of wire not 2 like this motor
Undone from motor inside ..
May need a new motor? 🤔
I soldered it back together like u and it's working now... your video helped me
Thank u
cool gag with the smoky power system :)
Hahaha. Did I get u too. Lol. 😳
Interesting, I wonder if this was a old version/batch of motors from ProBoat being that some have not seen this... Or as you stated most probably contact Horizon and complain to get a new motor and never troubleshoot.. Smoke machine got me though!!!
I'm thinking so brother. Several people mentioned that there motors were not like mine? Separate full motor wire exiting the motor can? Hmmmm.
Jesus guy chill out. You have good suggestions but it does not need to turn some people off. Temps are easy to check and I agree with you . These boats aren't the greatest because there not US made and China is China. So what you pay for these boats is more then there worth. But we get suck in on this hobby and spend money on this hobby because we love it and that's what the hobby is about. Fixing pieces of junk and make them what they should of bin out of the factory. But then again that's what these company's want you to do spend, spend,, spend.But your suggestions is trying not to spend to much. Lol so I thank you.. PS: I HOPE THESE COMPANYS LIKE HH see your video and step up there game because not all of us get into the hobby indept as you do. Like me all I want put batterys in a little maintenance and go have some fun. Speed is not my priority just reliability. Thanks for promoting this info and more importantly the hobby. Respect for you and what you do is ausome! Keep pumping the videos and Thank you.
You might find that those short leads between the motor and the ESC are a tuned length. I’m lead to believe that changing their length will mess up the timing on a brushless motor. Maybe not. What do I know. 😉 And listen, you don’t owe anybody an explanation about checking the temps. If I pushed my boats as hard as you do, I’d be checking too. It’s just common sense.
Yea man I agree on the short wire deal 100% that's why I was scared to upgrade the wire size? Short wires with my experience will heat the motor up big time. I learned my lesson along time ago. Lol. Thanks for watching IRONCLAD RC
@@IRONCLADRC You are exactly right on the wire size. Even if you got the exact same length, the size could change the timing. The motor would probably still run, it just would be quite as powerful and would likely heat up. These brushless motors are more complex than it might seem. At least that my understanding.
Have a good one! Love your channel. I learn lots of stuff.
Not having the motor in my hands to look at, it looks like the water jacket is too far toward the shaft. It's not close enough to the wire end and the wires are overheating and your IR gun is not picking it up. Solder joints fail like that when they get close to the melting point of the solder.
Also that clip in thingy is an RF choke for electrical noise suppression. And, heat shrink tubing is a thermal insulator of sorts too.
I thought that to. I try to run the jacket forward on the motor but to be honest I have to move the jacket back and forth to get the battery's In the boat, so I forget to push it forward from time to time. We need some kinda liquid cooled wire sheaths for the motor wire so they never get hot. Lol
@@IRONCLADRC I think I would mark the outside of the motor exactly where the stator is. Then center the water jacket. How come they don't make a water jacket that covers the whole length of the motor?
Idk ? I tried putting other motor jackets on this motor but this motor is a tad bit larger than all my extra 36mm water jackets, none of the jackets I have fit this motor. First time this happened,that was the first thing I checked, larger jacket.
@@IRONCLADRC idk either. :)
great video it shu old help them
Heat shrink retains heat. You want as little as possible.
Man I'm glad you confirmed my thoughts have been wondering about the whole heat shrink and installation deal for a long time appreciate it
Good thing you didn't decide to put that 10 gauge too much voltage would be running through and would cause the motor to blow
I ended up putting 10g on to prevent desoldering but it ended up desoldering anyway lol. The one I did in this video is actually still up and running I've got it in my recoil 2
My boat run with batteries 3s so hot
Its actually the motor windings...the size of the drum its kv dont matter in the performance of a motor... however yes the bigger can size will give you more tork and rpms...but be careful on your kv ..kv is actually the winding of the motor..insides..amps and volts..lower voltage the more amps it pulls...if the batteries cant put out the amps guess what melt down.. example have you ever pluged in a table saw with a long cord and the thing keeps blowing fuses...yep not enough amps ...ok.. shorter cord yes helps but it still dont have the amps to run the motor...and the cord gets storming hot...same goes on with these rc motors..ok...like i said kv dont matter the drum will only turn so many rpms..you can take 4 motors same can size different kv they all spin the same rpms...the difference between them is the windings...volts and amps.. important..choose your motor accordingly..so high kv=low volts more amps to run it...to get the rated rpms...lower kv =high volts lower amps to get the rpms..out of it ex..and yes saws are brushless motors also... 😂..poles is about how even you want the motor to run..or performance...4 poles are ok but a 6 pole motor has more magnetic pull..better performance..ex..so with that all said find a middle ground when choosing your motor..your kind of better off with a higher voltage battery less amp draw..ok feel me...small battery is ok for your out of the box boat ok . iron clad would be like i describe..make sense..
Love the smoker lololollo
Hahaha
If only there's a device that you could connect to all the pieces that you monitor the temperature and have it worthlessly tell you what the temperatures are instead of having to open it every time
The new spektrum firma smart technology paired with the dx5 line will give you real te Telemetry temp speed rpm etc. Really cool
@@IRONCLADRC my UL-19 is to be delivered in a couple days. How hard would it be for me to switch to Spektrum Firma 2000kv motor and the 160 Spektrum Firma ESC ? I love the telemetry on my Sonic wake v2. My UL-19 is new in the box. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Yeah these motors are built poorly the way they just butt the wires together is super trashy. I’ve had to fix several of them.
Have you ever soldered the bullet connectors on to the stub wire
DONT LET THE DEBBY DOWNERS GET UNDER YOUR SKIN . YOU GO AHEAD AND CHEQKE ANY THING YOU WANT. LET THEM MAKE THERE OWN VIDIOS EH!
Thanks brother. Is the ice melting up your way yet?
I like the content here but I am struggling with your really bad habit of saying everything twice which makes it very hard to watch your videos it’s so annoying that I have had to stop and find a different video to watch I can normally watch pretty much anything so if this is bugging me that much it must be effecting others.
I apologize most of the time I try to cut it out. It's alot of work making these videos and editing. Alot of work.
Especially the build/repair videos I have to start then stop ( take 1, take 2, take3 etc) I will work on it. I'm not a professional I just do this for a hobby.
Big B you are cool I can't believe the things you can do with an RC boat I'm a beginner but I want to learn if you would contact me I appreciate it