2.5 stars is a fair grade. Battery test function is nice. I could see a potential use as a basic meter you keep in the trunk of your vehicle. Maybe usable as a low voltage bench meter for a beginning hobbyist. Not safe for line voltage.
I was just going down through the table of capacitance tests I have done on the couple dozen DMMs I own that perform capacitance. I am using a calibration board with a wide range of high precision RF and audio filtering caps mostly, also some high precision MLCC and tantalums before resorting to known good electrolytics at the upper end. This unit was the one that nailed all the capacitance values, worst excursion was 1.5%. The only one it didn't do was the 22mF which was out of range. I am really impressed, hope they are all made this way. I would grab this unit before my expensive LCR meter! By the way, in order to realize this accuracy you will need to "rel out" the lead capacitance by holding the SEL button until the delta (triangle) symbol appears in the display. Makes a big difference at low capacitance values. If you change capacitance range, you must repeat this step. I think this works on resistance too.
Hey Paul..wow that is surprising 😮 glad to see Aneng on top! I'll be doing a similar test in the spring , I would be interested in seeing your results comparatively speaking. Lots of work no doubt but a very useful project 👍
Regarding the NCV wire. After disassembling to add dielectric grease to the knob and PCB (which helped smooth range selection immensely) I decided to lock down the NCV wire. I found the optimal vertical height and let that wire rest against that red rib in the middle. Then I used a soldering iron to warm the wire nearby, just enough that it started melting the rib. The wire sunk down into the rib and I stopped when the wire was parallel to the top of the unit. I must say this helped the NCV feature detect wires correctly. It isn't so much that NCV enables detecting AC voltage, it also helps differentiate which wire is hot. It does this very well now. I get all the bars when holding the hot side of the flat 3-conductor wire parallel to the top of the unit and no bars when I present the other side of the same wire. I found it interesting some of the SMD capacitors were added manually as evidenced by the flux residue. Or they were touched up. These cheapos always have some reduced level of workmanship and stray solder splatters that need cleaned up.
Sorry for the late reply..yes, it's still referred to as an lcd display, even if it's only using the white backing paper. Great question though ! I might do a segment on displays in the near future..
Thanks for rewiev. I ordered this one. In my contry for such a low price I couldn’t find any analogues that would measure capacitance up to 20mF. All others cheap Multimeters are only 200 microfarads maximum. Also сontinuity mode very fast. And battery mode for 1.5v to 12v - there is no other cheap multimeters with that function. All the time i need to connect lamp to many of my 1.5v and 12v batteries to test them. Now i can just use only multimeter. Only one thing really disappoint - no fuse for 10A current.
Mr. Darren,Can you do an extreme test with all the DMMs that you reviewed, such as entering a voltage of 220 VAC or more when measuring resistance, capacitance, diode, and continuity, this is a very bad thing, but it would be something interesting,thanks
I will be doing something along those lines at some point 👉 I've reviewed way too many multimeters to do them all but I agree doing some of the latest would be a great help👍
@@KeepOnTesting I know the "fused cat III" rating on these type meters are a joke but this really crosses a line. Even the freebies have cheap glass fuse. Aneng should really be ashamed of themselves for selling this as anything more than a battery tester... Wow
Hi Darren, While doing some modding on the case of my unit I have accidentally damaged its display. In your review @09.44 you call it a 'lcd display'. But is it one? It appears to be just a translucent piece of acryllic with a white cover sheet on the back. And what's even more curious: it has only 2 wires connected to it! And those 2 wires look like they are powering the back/side-light leds. I would like to try to replace my broken display. But how does this thing even function like a display? What is it? Could you point me in the right direction?
Cheap, but not totally useless. I've used cheapos like this for years for basic diagnostics. Wouldn't want to risk using it with high current though, no matter what it says. And that NCV performance was embarrassing. I guess size isn't everything after all. 🤷♂
Try telling that to my wife..(joking).😅 Aneng seems like they've given up and are trying to sell rehashed multimeters. Too bad really..hoping in 2024 they try harder.🎉
Cool. I just use it for Caps and resisters which it seems to do fine enough thanks to it's range. Doing volts and Amps works fine in a pinch. I have the sz304 which is pretty much the same but without the useless NCV.
OMG this airbox is rated at 20 amps current--??!!! Stand back when you read that one-lol That PC board is about half the size of the whole oase interior - must need the space to cool that 20 amp heat load on current setting - LOL
I can't imagine running this with 20A ,it was really hot at 10A and without a proper shunt...echh. Funny how lately, the bigger dmms have the smallest pcb.😅
@@KeepOnTesting The front clearly says "fused" but didn't see any in the teardown... did I miss them? What happens if you "measure the mains" while still plugged into amp jacks?
@@tshackeltonYikes, scary scenario..dmms usually have a separate input for current measurements which places a low-value resistor in series with the test leads. If the leads are left in these terminals when attempting to make a voltage measurement, a high current may flow through the meter. This can damage the device being tested and may blow the DMM’s internal fuse. If the source voltage exceeds the fuse rating.. arcing, damage to the meter or worse can be the result! 😅 I'll be exploring this more in future videos.
How can they make a ptofit from 7 bucks meter, free shipping from china? it's a freaking multimeter, and it's under $10. the cheapest fluke costs 15 times of this, not even the cheapest aneng.
It's cheap but versatile. I bought one and I'm very happy with it🎉
Sounds like my first girlfriend.. 👍
2.5 stars is a fair grade. Battery test function is nice. I could see a potential use as a basic meter you keep in the trunk of your vehicle. Maybe usable as a low voltage bench meter for a beginning hobbyist. Not safe for line voltage.
All good points 👉 I really wanted to like this Aneng alot, but the ncv, well, I'm still scratching my head 😅
Awesome review video as always! The thermal camera is definitely a great addition to the review.
Thx ! I appreciate the feedback. 😊👍
Nice review video 👍
I was just going down through the table of capacitance tests I have done on the couple dozen DMMs I own that perform capacitance. I am using a calibration board with a wide range of high precision RF and audio filtering caps mostly, also some high precision MLCC and tantalums before resorting to known good electrolytics at the upper end. This unit was the one that nailed all the capacitance values, worst excursion was 1.5%. The only one it didn't do was the 22mF which was out of range. I am really impressed, hope they are all made this way. I would grab this unit before my expensive LCR meter! By the way, in order to realize this accuracy you will need to "rel out" the lead capacitance by holding the SEL button until the delta (triangle) symbol appears in the display. Makes a big difference at low capacitance values. If you change capacitance range, you must repeat this step. I think this works on resistance too.
Hey Paul..wow that is surprising 😮 glad to see Aneng on top! I'll be doing a similar test in the spring , I would be interested in seeing your results comparatively speaking. Lots of work no doubt but a very useful project 👍
Pretty much what I use it for.
Since when dentists use Aneng? Ah I love the thumbnail humor! :D
Hehe..thx. It's a generally "weird" multimeter, hence the slightly bizarre thumbnail 😳👍
Regarding the NCV wire. After disassembling to add dielectric grease to the knob and PCB (which helped smooth range selection immensely) I decided to lock down the NCV wire. I found the optimal vertical height and let that wire rest against that red rib in the middle. Then I used a soldering iron to warm the wire nearby, just enough that it started melting the rib. The wire sunk down into the rib and I stopped when the wire was parallel to the top of the unit. I must say this helped the NCV feature detect wires correctly. It isn't so much that NCV enables detecting AC voltage, it also helps differentiate which wire is hot. It does this very well now. I get all the bars when holding the hot side of the flat 3-conductor wire parallel to the top of the unit and no bars when I present the other side of the same wire. I found it interesting some of the SMD capacitors were added manually as evidenced by the flux residue. Or they were touched up. These cheapos always have some reduced level of workmanship and stray solder splatters that need cleaned up.
Sorry for the late reply..yes, it's still referred to as an lcd display, even if it's only using the white backing paper. Great question though ! I might do a segment on displays in the near future..
Thanks for your reply and waiting for that 'display-special' 😃!
Thanks for rewiev.
I ordered this one. In my contry for such a low price I couldn’t find any analogues that would measure capacitance up to 20mF. All others cheap Multimeters are only 200 microfarads maximum. Also сontinuity mode very fast. And battery mode for 1.5v to 12v - there is no other cheap multimeters with that function. All the time i need to connect lamp to many of my 1.5v and 12v batteries to test them. Now i can just use only multimeter.
Only one thing really disappoint - no fuse for 10A current.
It's a nice CHEAP-O Multimeter for sure! Enjoy my friend 👍
Is there an expensive multiltimeter that the SZ305 cannot do? 😊
Darren there is a another one like this it use two aas battery can you do a teardown of it thanks alot
Cheers my friend! 👍
😂😂 the ANENG intro...
A request tho, if you come across the CHEAP-O INGCO DM7504 please review it..
Mr. Darren,Can you do an extreme test with all the DMMs that you reviewed, such as entering a voltage of 220 VAC or more when measuring resistance, capacitance, diode, and continuity, this is a very bad thing, but it would be something interesting,thanks
I will be doing something along those lines at some point 👉 I've reviewed way too many multimeters to do them all but I agree doing some of the latest would be a great help👍
@@KeepOnTesting good decision mr darenn, i like your video review, i also like the voltage showdown and teardown parts,i really-really like it👌
@@unk_48 Thx my friend! Lots more to come! 😃
Oh dear, may be if you chuck all the Aneng meters this year in a box and shake them around you'll get one decent meter out of them?
Muhahaha 👍 now your talkin! 😊
I am looking to buy the SZ304 that looks almost similar to the Aneng DT9205A I have.
Any comments?
I might go for the Zoyi 98.
I would choose the ZOYI! Better build.
Is there any benefit from manual range DM?
Faster to range and also a great way to learn about your multimeter 👍
So the test leads are the fuse?
Now that you mention it...yes..😅
@@KeepOnTesting I know the "fused cat III" rating on these type meters are a joke but this really crosses a line. Even the freebies have cheap glass fuse. Aneng should really be ashamed of themselves for selling this as anything more than a battery tester... Wow
@@tshackeltonTotally 👍 Agree ..Aneng has really dropped the ball this year..
Not a bad multimeter to throw in the car, and someday, in need, take it out completely broken )
That about sums it up my friend 😅 👍
The center post of the selector wheel is worn and very small. I don't think it will take very long for it to break.
Yesir, Aneng quality shines again 😢
Hi Darren,
While doing some modding on the case of my unit I have accidentally damaged its display. In your review @09.44 you call it a 'lcd display'. But is it one? It appears to be just a translucent piece of acryllic with a white cover sheet on the back. And what's even more curious: it has only 2 wires connected to it! And those 2 wires look like they are powering the back/side-light leds. I would like to try to replace my broken display. But how does this thing even function like a display? What is it? Could you point me in the right direction?
The LCD display is connected underneath not by the 2 wires.😢
Hey.....is it better than sz08?
@1:37 How did you stuff a 9V in there🙃
Tight fit 😂
I bought one aneng SZ304 used for few times the continuaty beep sound keep beeping when adjust to continuaty test.👎👎👎👎👎
😀👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Cheap, but not totally useless. I've used cheapos like this for years for basic diagnostics. Wouldn't want to risk using it with high current though, no matter what it says. And that NCV performance was embarrassing. I guess size isn't everything after all. 🤷♂
Try telling that to my wife..(joking).😅 Aneng seems like they've given up and are trying to sell rehashed multimeters. Too bad really..hoping in 2024 they try harder.🎉
Congrats for the review bro. You saved my life because I won't definetely buy this piece of junk.
Glad I could help..
Cool. I just use it for Caps and resisters which it seems to do fine enough thanks to it's range. Doing volts and Amps works fine in a pinch. I have the sz304 which is pretty much the same but without the useless NCV.
Cheers Michael!
OMG this airbox is rated at 20 amps current--??!!! Stand back when you read that one-lol That PC board is about half the size of the whole oase interior - must need the space to cool that 20 amp heat load on current setting - LOL
I can't imagine running this with 20A ,it was really hot at 10A and without a proper shunt...echh. Funny how lately, the bigger dmms have the smallest pcb.😅
@@KeepOnTesting The front clearly says "fused" but didn't see any in the teardown... did I miss them? What happens if you "measure the mains" while still plugged into amp jacks?
@@tshackeltonYikes, scary scenario..dmms usually have a separate input for current measurements which places a low-value resistor in series with the test leads. If the leads are left in these terminals when attempting to make a voltage measurement, a high current may flow through the meter. This can damage the device being tested and may blow the DMM’s internal fuse. If the source voltage exceeds the fuse rating.. arcing, damage to the meter or worse can be the result! 😅 I'll be exploring this more in future videos.
What in the world! How does it survive? 😂
Must be that Bollywood smile! 😃
The shift selector is not good,
Sorry bro it is dm 9205a it uses two AAA batteries
I'll see if I can find an updated unit to review 👍
Inside more terible than $2 DT830 multimeters. No current shunt. I can make DIY shuny resistor but my time more expensive than buy a new one.
How can they make a ptofit from 7 bucks meter, free shipping from china? it's a freaking multimeter, and it's under $10. the cheapest fluke costs 15 times of this, not even the cheapest aneng.
Goes to show you what really smart engineers are capable of...They're probably making 5$ profit on that 7$ multimeter ..😅
Why its have ugly notch like iphone display?
Probably going for that ugly iPhone look 😅 👍