As an engineer seeing your approach to problem solving is so wonderful, I love how you really live the "it's only a bad mistake if we don't learn" life and are sharing this with the world. I've personally never worked with injection molding and really appreciate your insights on all of this.
I used to work in a job shop that made molds for injection molding and some progressive dies for stamping etc. Dont take what I say as gospel these are just things I am thinking about when watching your video. Firstly, in theory yes you could just drill that hole deeper with a long enough drill, its in aluminum so it shouldnt be too hard. BUT, you need to be careful that you arent going to damage your threads at the top of the hole when trying to drill it deeper. The perks of having deep holes and stuff like that drilled on CNC machines and drill presses is the downward force needed to get a good chip when drilling is a lot easier to achieve with mechanical advantage vs just trying to throw your weight behind a hand drill. Doing it by hand with a drill will be a challenge. If you can send it back and have them correct their mess up I would strongly recommend that. They didnt make it to print and thats their correction to make. 2. If you dont have one already, invest in a borescope, they are rather inexpensive and will pay for itself in a short period of time. When dealing with water lines or cooling lines you dont want to risk having any metal chips or debris flowing through your pumps. A quick look down each hole and where intersecting holes are will give you peace of mind that there isnt any metal chips hung up. When you have 2 holes drilled to intersect you will often times get left with a nasty burr that is not easy to get rid of when its several inches deep in a block of aluminum. A lazy machinist may not catch it or be too lazy to spend the time to try and remove the burr. If the burr is weak enough the water pressure could cause it to break off and then flow through your system potentially causing issues. 3. If you find yourself having to take apart your dies often, instead of beating the piss out of it with a mallet or deadblow, you can get small inflatable air bags that can make spreading the die apart along the guide pins evenly a whole heck of a lot easier.
I really like that air bag idea. Do you think a drill press would be a good enough solution to drilling? I totally agree that in theory, returning it to the manufacturer is the best solution, but in practice time is money friend and sometimes it's better to resolve today instead of waiting a few weeks.
@@reallunacy realistically yes a drill press would be enough, but the challenge is having a drill long enough to even reach that far in the hole. Extra length drills are a thing but I imagine most people don’t just have them laying around. You are correct though, time is money. You’d just hope that if they missed the ball on drilling a simple hole deep enough then hopefully they didn’t mess up anywhere else along the way. If he drills it himself he’s just gotta worry about properly deburring it, which isn’t hard. Plus it appears he tests it by flushing it so that should remove any debris from the system before it hits production. The big thing if I were in his shoes is to take a long enough drill, drop it in the hole that does go all the way through and mark its depth of the shank of the drill. The drill should center/locate itself at the bottom of the hole on the one that isn’t drilled all the way through. If he’s only gotta go like a 1/4 to 1/2 then it’d be super easy to probably just do with a hand drill. Being aluminum you’d just want to use wd40 or something when drilling and to go slow on the speed cuz it’s a larger diameter hole. Larger being 3/8+
Watching Jesse learn about manufacturing has been a great ride so far. All the ups and downs and tricky decisions that most people don't think about when buying a product. Very fun to see. Thanks for the update video!
Quick note on your Teflon taping...just do 3-4 wraps on the final 1/2" or so of the threads. Wrapping further up the threads does nothing but waste the tape.
Seeing your molds and water-cooling setup are using aluminum and brass, I'm very curious how you're machinery prevents galvanic corrosion. When I do PC case mods, I have to be very careful not to mix metals because of the anodic index difference, especially in aluminum and brass/copper. Most of the time, PC components you don't have to worry about it since purpose built things have more or less settled on brass/copper/nickel, but when building more exotic stuff, I would have to very carefully watch what components touch the water and each other. In my industry (distribution pipelines) you have to use cathodic protection and a sacrificial anode.
I work as a CNC programmer in a shop that also does injection molding. We mold completely different types of plastic for a completely different industry but I love these videos. I thoroughly enjoy watching your team learn and adapt. Thank you for sharing your journey into manufacturing and showing us how to do it with trash lol.
Jesse, we learn from our mistakes. Next time you are water testing and you are looking for flow use compressed air. It is a lot less mess. If your fittings are cut with NPT threads they are tapered to create the seal, you are wise to be gentle with the brass and aluminum. The teflon tape is not used for sealing but for a lubricant for the threads. Next time just use a light down the drill holes to see. and yes you should of just drilled out the incomplete hole. also good call on being cautious on the inner core mold, I have no idea how the got those push lock fittings to thread and tighten without a very narrow walled socket. Great content as always
Oh, nothing like rushing things and then wrecking everything in the process. I am very impressed with your decision, as I am not sure I’d have done the same thing.
For future reference, instead of sticking something long and skinny down the hole and using the light to see the object. You could just shine the light down it and see if the light comes through the other side.
Well, it's nice to know if only the tip of the drill got through making a tiny hole or is it the same diameter all the way through. But yes light shows if its connected at all.
Does the inside of the water fittings accept an Allen socket? I’ve used hydraulic/pneumatic fitting before that can be driven on the ID and OD. Another option may be using a thin wall socket.
^^this! The Allen keys are for sure possible, get T-handles for this, it makes life way easier! If that's not it, it looks like a deep well socket should work. If a regular socket clears and engages it would likely mean a regular deep well would clear also.
So, now you should be free to mix-n-match the upper and lower parts of individual disc moulds, I think. If they're the same diameter, of course. In just the same way that a TL is the top of a Teebird and the bottom of a Leopard. :) That's gotta be a cool thing, because you can quite literally create new discs using existing inserts. If you're very proud of the top half of a particular disc's mould, then you can use that insert to halve the machining cost of a new disc mould.
Did the side cut and one of the cooling lines intersect? If so could you do a side inlet/outlet and run at 75% cooling ability? Using one of the right lines and using the side plug as the other port?
Hey! Love these engineering problems, well not the problems, but the process of diagnosing and fixing them. Can you use compressed air to help test the water channels out? That way you are left with a lot less of a watery mess and can test it without hooking up the brass connectors
Definitely a great question. I wouldn't think they are far enough apart in galvanic series for it to be a major issue. However that being said, if so, the mould would be the annode which is not good. Buying a couple aluminum pipe nipples to start with and transitioning from there may be a good call.
I got to feel your discs for the first time yesterday. They are very soft and very slick. Any plans in the future to make them a bit stiffer and tackier?
Ah the joys of injection molding manufacturing. Hopefully you’ll get to the point of redundancy soon.. having multiple molds for each disc at the ready in case anything goes sideways. Good luck. I’m eager for the new mid also, but totally understand delays like these. You’ll get there Jesse.
Jesse, please wrap your Teflon tape the other direction. Idk if you have a consistent method down, or just kind of do it however since I only saw it in one clip. It's a little hard to explain best practice since CW/CCW depends on your point of reference. If you're holding the piece with the threads pointed away and it's a RH thread. You want to wrap CCW from your point of view. Imagine it getting caught on the thing you're wrapping it on, which way would it pull it?
Hey Jesse quick question: do you have any technical background or are you just a disc nerd figuring things out along the way? You seem really competent and driven so I am curious :)
Hey! Name Idea 💡 “The Snow” ❄️ I’ve really been looking for a winter themed disc as we come into the holiday season, and this could be the perfect fit. Also, you could tie this in to y’all’s location (Denver,) being another homage to the brand. - Young Texan Disc Golfer
Do you run an 'Antifreeze' to prevent the cooling water from boiling or at least causing hotspots, and it would also help prevent corrosion of the alloy due to electrolysis due to the dissimilar metals in the mold, piping, pump etc? You could even go Eco Friendly there with something like ECO2 "a vegetable based antifreeze is based on sustainable refined vegetable extracts" oooo warm fuzzies... (I have no link to that product, Dr Stoopid (the interweb) was the pusher there)... q8D The cooling channels... You have the map.. the 2 main ducts should be deep enough to pass the cross duct (that is later plugged... There appears to be plenty of meat beyond the cross duct so drilling both main tubes another 10mm etc should be fine (I don't think the turbulence caused by a cavity if you drill beyond the cross tube will make any difference (the fact that the water hits a right angle is causing just as much.. and it's only water cooling, not lubrication etc. Sometimes cost rules the roost but I always try to make anything 'future expandable' when I can, especially if I need to change something that doesn't quite work. Oh and I'm sure you know but... PTFE... 2-3 turns only. Put the tape on a thread the same direction you would wind a nut onto that thread. (More than 3 turns can expand the outside piece and crack it, and can be so thick that winding it in just pushes the PTFE into a lump ring on the face leaving no PTFE in the threads)... Winding it on in the direction of the nut (generally clockwise but when looking at thread from the side 'Clockwise' can b confusing) ensures the end last laid down lays away from the oncoming outside thread, otherwise it picks up on that thread and unwinds as you wind it in. (Maintenance engineer on (among other things) Pressure washers up to 10000PSI for 15 years... after IT for 20+... ok odd direction but I'm a jack of all trades, master of ... not even throwing plastic at trees!)
Lots of good points, but water has better thermal conductivity and less viscosity than your typical antifreeze options like glycol. If you're boiling water in your loop your whole setup should probably be rethought a bit.
@@Sobo272 Funny thing about water and alloy... Throw in a few other metals like brass fittings (as shown), stainless and zinc (most (but not all) pumps, and the slightest bit of mineral in the water... and you have a battery... and that battery EATS the alloy... (at a tiny rate)... The result is a white powder (Aluminium oxide). This then migrates through the circuit, and jamming things like those fittings etc. A good example is the consumer range of Nilfisk pumps with alloy pump heads and output tube. If you don't remove the HP hose and give the pump a quick second of run without any hose attached, the outlet corrodes onto the brass (or other) fitting on the hose and it jams.. also Nilfisk pumps have a nylon piston that when over pressured presses a microswitch to turn it off... the nylon piston jams from the oxide, the machine doesn't shut off when you let the trigger go... hilarity ensues. As viscosity is important in mold cooling... you could look at working on as pure water supply as possible... Also increasing turbulence... I wonder if rifling the cooling lines in the mold would be enough...
you could try to use doubled up nuts to remove those water lines. Tighten the nuts against themselves, and try to brace the closer one while you unscrew the line from the further. You should be able to find videos about that technique online. However with your space constraints Im not entirely sure it would help.
looking at it again, are the water fittings threaded, or are they quick connect? It might take ruining those water fittings to be able to replace them with ones that are easier for you to install and remove
I definitely love trash in the same way. For those threads and fittings, I would recommend you talk to a mechanical engineer that can calculate you a range of torque specs that are suited for the application. Then you can just get a torque wrench to make sure you will get it tight enough without wearing out the parts over time. Maybe you can find tables online for like thread sizes and materials, however torque specs for aluminum threads might be a bit out there, and I would guess that it's the softest of the 2, however that is just my feeling not something I have checked
Like as for just sending it with a long drillbit should be fine, still there are 2 factors to note. 1 there is no way of deburring down there, and aluminum get these razer sharp edges, not that you could ever stick you finger down there and get a papercut, however, if there is a burr after drilling the hole, it might fall off and damage the cooling system unless there is like a filter before the pump and radiator. You might be able to just get a filter to hook into the water line. 2 is super related, the size of the hole. Like I would generally just get a 1mm smaller drillbit, so I would not mess up the machined hole by just jamming on with a hand drill or even a drillpress. Like if the system is super sensitive, this might be a problem with like pressure and stuff. Still if you do, you can just get an accurate size drillbit to deburr. Like if you bring this to a good machine shop, they will probably spend an hour waving responsebilities and 2 minutes drilling, however then you can go down there an complain for 2 hours if they mess it up somehow ;)
Hey, I want to mention of the quality difference in Teflon tapes. The white tape you are using is the cheapest and it is going to give you real headaches. You might want to consider using yellow or pink as it is going to keep you from wrenching down fittings too tightly and stressing out the aluminum threads. The yellow and pink tape are meant for oil and gas fittings, and are thicker and of much better quality material than the white which is full of holes and thin. Never buy the white stuff, even for simple plumbing. You can thank me later.
i would have called the inner core mold manufacturer to get a part number on the tooling to drive those inserts... you spent hundreds of thousands of dollars with them, they will have a customer support contact...
Does anyone remember the sport champion Playstation move game? I remember being obsessed with the disc golf game of it. Why it took me this long to remember that is beyond me 😅
Just a heads up, you and about 99% of other people are wearing your Earbud upside down. Turn it around and put the skinny part in the part of your ear that’s closed off above your EarHole . Sounds silly but way more comfortable and secure 👍. And it’s actually the way they were designed by Apple to wear.
Please, for the love of liability, don’t drill into the mold yourself! Spend the time, approach the manufacturer, and point out their flaws. Have THEM fix it. That way, if it breaks, it’s not on your hands.
As an engineer seeing your approach to problem solving is so wonderful, I love how you really live the "it's only a bad mistake if we don't learn" life and are sharing this with the world. I've personally never worked with injection molding and really appreciate your insights on all of this.
A great name for this new midrange would be “Crest” the more overstable counterpart of the “Dune” referring to the crest of a wave
I used to work in a job shop that made molds for injection molding and some progressive dies for stamping etc. Dont take what I say as gospel these are just things I am thinking about when watching your video.
Firstly, in theory yes you could just drill that hole deeper with a long enough drill, its in aluminum so it shouldnt be too hard. BUT, you need to be careful that you arent going to damage your threads at the top of the hole when trying to drill it deeper. The perks of having deep holes and stuff like that drilled on CNC machines and drill presses is the downward force needed to get a good chip when drilling is a lot easier to achieve with mechanical advantage vs just trying to throw your weight behind a hand drill. Doing it by hand with a drill will be a challenge. If you can send it back and have them correct their mess up I would strongly recommend that. They didnt make it to print and thats their correction to make.
2. If you dont have one already, invest in a borescope, they are rather inexpensive and will pay for itself in a short period of time. When dealing with water lines or cooling lines you dont want to risk having any metal chips or debris flowing through your pumps. A quick look down each hole and where intersecting holes are will give you peace of mind that there isnt any metal chips hung up. When you have 2 holes drilled to intersect you will often times get left with a nasty burr that is not easy to get rid of when its several inches deep in a block of aluminum. A lazy machinist may not catch it or be too lazy to spend the time to try and remove the burr. If the burr is weak enough the water pressure could cause it to break off and then flow through your system potentially causing issues.
3. If you find yourself having to take apart your dies often, instead of beating the piss out of it with a mallet or deadblow, you can get small inflatable air bags that can make spreading the die apart along the guide pins evenly a whole heck of a lot easier.
I really like that air bag idea.
Do you think a drill press would be a good enough solution to drilling? I totally agree that in theory, returning it to the manufacturer is the best solution, but in practice time is money friend and sometimes it's better to resolve today instead of waiting a few weeks.
@@reallunacy realistically yes a drill press would be enough, but the challenge is having a drill long enough to even reach that far in the hole. Extra length drills are a thing but I imagine most people don’t just have them laying around. You are correct though, time is money. You’d just hope that if they missed the ball on drilling a simple hole deep enough then hopefully they didn’t mess up anywhere else along the way. If he drills it himself he’s just gotta worry about properly deburring it, which isn’t hard. Plus it appears he tests it by flushing it so that should remove any debris from the system before it hits production. The big thing if I were in his shoes is to take a long enough drill, drop it in the hole that does go all the way through and mark its depth of the shank of the drill. The drill should center/locate itself at the bottom of the hole on the one that isn’t drilled all the way through. If he’s only gotta go like a 1/4 to 1/2 then it’d be super easy to probably just do with a hand drill. Being aluminum you’d just want to use wd40 or something when drilling and to go slow on the speed cuz it’s a larger diameter hole. Larger being 3/8+
Watching Jesse learn about manufacturing has been a great ride so far. All the ups and downs and tricky decisions that most people don't think about when buying a product. Very fun to see. Thanks for the update video!
Check the inner bore of the water fittings, usually stuff like that is keyed for an Allen wrench to be able to insert/remove
Quick note on your Teflon taping...just do 3-4 wraps on the final 1/2" or so of the threads. Wrapping further up the threads does nothing but waste the tape.
Jesse, you need a torque wrench! For repeatability….
Totally!
YES. ❤ Son-in-law to an auto mechanic here. I fully agree. 👍
Seeing your molds and water-cooling setup are using aluminum and brass, I'm very curious how you're machinery prevents galvanic corrosion. When I do PC case mods, I have to be very careful not to mix metals because of the anodic index difference, especially in aluminum and brass/copper. Most of the time, PC components you don't have to worry about it since purpose built things have more or less settled on brass/copper/nickel, but when building more exotic stuff, I would have to very carefully watch what components touch the water and each other.
In my industry (distribution pipelines) you have to use cathodic protection and a sacrificial anode.
I work as a CNC programmer in a shop that also does injection molding. We mold completely different types of plastic for a completely different industry but I love these videos. I thoroughly enjoy watching your team learn and adapt. Thank you for sharing your journey into manufacturing and showing us how to do it with trash lol.
Love that the best flashlight you have is on your phone
Jesse, we learn from our mistakes. Next time you are water testing and you are looking for flow use compressed air. It is a lot less mess. If your fittings are cut with NPT threads they are tapered to create the seal, you are wise to be gentle with the brass and aluminum. The teflon tape is not used for sealing but for a lubricant for the threads. Next time just use a light down the drill holes to see. and yes you should of just drilled out the incomplete hole. also good call on being cautious on the inner core mold, I have no idea how the got those push lock fittings to thread and tighten without a very narrow walled socket. Great content as always
Oh, nothing like rushing things and then wrecking everything in the process. I am very impressed with your decision, as I am not sure I’d have done the same thing.
For future reference, instead of sticking something long and skinny down the hole and using the light to see the object. You could just shine the light down it and see if the light comes through the other side.
Well, it's nice to know if only the tip of the drill got through making a tiny hole or is it the same diameter all the way through. But yes light shows if its connected at all.
yesssss! glow inner cores!!!!
Man! I Wish i could be a part of your company. I’m excited for this new midrange!
Does the inside of the water fittings accept an Allen socket? I’ve used hydraulic/pneumatic fitting before that can be driven on the ID and OD. Another option may be using a thin wall socket.
^^this! The Allen keys are for sure possible, get T-handles for this, it makes life way easier! If that's not it, it looks like a deep well socket should work. If a regular socket clears and engages it would likely mean a regular deep well would clear also.
Holy teflon tape batman!! Haha, cool video, b roll music is nice too. 👍
I love these videos. I learn so much!
Also it was a delight to meet you at USDGC!!!
So, now you should be free to mix-n-match the upper and lower parts of individual disc moulds, I think. If they're the same diameter, of course.
In just the same way that a TL is the top of a Teebird and the bottom of a Leopard. :)
That's gotta be a cool thing, because you can quite literally create new discs using existing inserts.
If you're very proud of the top half of a particular disc's mould, then you can use that insert to halve the machining cost of a new disc mould.
Keep up the good work man , can't wait to see that birthday run of inner cores
reaaaally thought you were about to send it there at the end and I was getting nervous 😬 Good call
Did the side cut and one of the cooling lines intersect? If so could you do a side inlet/outlet and run at 75% cooling ability? Using one of the right lines and using the side plug as the other port?
Thats what I came here to say. Might be different threads though...
Great video! Good luck. More glow in the dark discs please!
Hey! Love these engineering problems, well not the problems, but the process of diagnosing and fixing them. Can you use compressed air to help test the water channels out? That way you are left with a lot less of a watery mess and can test it without hooking up the brass connectors
oooh recycled glow run 👀
I bought the hemp blend et 1 and it glows.my blue one glows faintly as well.
Can you use a torque wrench to find out your max pressure on those fittings for future set up? Or do torque wrenches not work with soft metals? 🤔
Do you have to worry about galvanic corrosion at all with running water thru the brass pipes into the aluminum mold.
Definitely a great question. I wouldn't think they are far enough apart in galvanic series for it to be a major issue. However that being said, if so, the mould would be the annode which is not good. Buying a couple aluminum pipe nipples to start with and transitioning from there may be a good call.
I got to feel your discs for the first time yesterday. They are very soft and very slick. Any plans in the future to make them a bit stiffer and tackier?
Ah the joys of injection molding manufacturing. Hopefully you’ll get to the point of redundancy soon.. having multiple molds for each disc at the ready in case anything goes sideways. Good luck. I’m eager for the new mid also, but totally understand delays like these. You’ll get there Jesse.
Hey are y’all restocking the hat any time soon? I really want one they look sick!
Jesse, please wrap your Teflon tape the other direction.
Idk if you have a consistent method down, or just kind of do it however since I only saw it in one clip. It's a little hard to explain best practice since CW/CCW depends on your point of reference. If you're holding the piece with the threads pointed away and it's a RH thread. You want to wrap CCW from your point of view. Imagine it getting caught on the thing you're wrapping it on, which way would it pull it?
Thank you for showing us this whole process. So cool you're bringing us along!
I know nothing about any of this, but i approve the brand name.
I'll take some metal discs.
Hey Jesse quick question: do you have any technical background or are you just a disc nerd figuring things out along the way? You seem really competent and driven so I am curious :)
Hey! Name Idea 💡
“The Snow” ❄️
I’ve really been looking for a winter themed disc as we come into the holiday season, and this could be the perfect fit.
Also, you could tie this in to y’all’s location (Denver,) being another homage to the brand.
- Young Texan Disc Golfer
Do you run an 'Antifreeze' to prevent the cooling water from boiling or at least causing hotspots, and it would also help prevent corrosion of the alloy due to electrolysis due to the dissimilar metals in the mold, piping, pump etc?
You could even go Eco Friendly there with something like ECO2 "a vegetable based antifreeze is based on sustainable refined vegetable extracts" oooo warm fuzzies...
(I have no link to that product, Dr Stoopid (the interweb) was the pusher there)...
q8D
The cooling channels... You have the map.. the 2 main ducts should be deep enough to pass the cross duct (that is later plugged...
There appears to be plenty of meat beyond the cross duct so drilling both main tubes another 10mm etc should be fine (I don't think the turbulence caused by a cavity if you drill beyond the cross tube will make any difference (the fact that the water hits a right angle is causing just as much.. and it's only water cooling, not lubrication etc.
Sometimes cost rules the roost but I always try to make anything 'future expandable' when I can, especially if I need to change something that doesn't quite work.
Oh and I'm sure you know but...
PTFE...
2-3 turns only.
Put the tape on a thread the same direction you would wind a nut onto that thread. (More than 3 turns can expand the outside piece and crack it, and can be so thick that winding it in just pushes the PTFE into a lump ring on the face leaving no PTFE in the threads)...
Winding it on in the direction of the nut (generally clockwise but when looking at thread from the side 'Clockwise' can b confusing) ensures the end last laid down lays away from the oncoming outside thread, otherwise it picks up on that thread and unwinds as you wind it in.
(Maintenance engineer on (among other things) Pressure washers up to 10000PSI for 15 years...
after IT for 20+...
ok odd direction but I'm a jack of all trades, master of ... not even throwing plastic at trees!)
Lots of good points, but water has better thermal conductivity and less viscosity than your typical antifreeze options like glycol. If you're boiling water in your loop your whole setup should probably be rethought a bit.
@@Sobo272 Funny thing about water and alloy... Throw in a few other metals like brass fittings (as shown), stainless and zinc (most (but not all) pumps, and the slightest bit of mineral in the water... and you have a battery... and that battery EATS the alloy... (at a tiny rate)...
The result is a white powder (Aluminium oxide).
This then migrates through the circuit, and jamming things like those fittings etc.
A good example is the consumer range of Nilfisk pumps with alloy pump heads and output tube.
If you don't remove the HP hose and give the pump a quick second of run without any hose attached, the outlet corrodes onto the brass (or other) fitting on the hose and it jams.. also Nilfisk pumps have a nylon piston that when over pressured presses a microswitch to turn it off... the nylon piston jams from the oxide, the machine doesn't shut off when you let the trigger go... hilarity ensues.
As viscosity is important in mold cooling... you could look at working on as pure water supply as possible...
Also increasing turbulence...
I wonder if rifling the cooling lines in the mold would be enough...
you could try to use doubled up nuts to remove those water lines. Tighten the nuts against themselves, and try to brace the closer one while you unscrew the line from the further. You should be able to find videos about that technique online. However with your space constraints Im not entirely sure it would help.
looking at it again, are the water fittings threaded, or are they quick connect? It might take ruining those water fittings to be able to replace them with ones that are easier for you to install and remove
I definitely love trash in the same way. For those threads and fittings, I would recommend you talk to a mechanical engineer that can calculate you a range of torque specs that are suited for the application. Then you can just get a torque wrench to make sure you will get it tight enough without wearing out the parts over time. Maybe you can find tables online for like thread sizes and materials, however torque specs for aluminum threads might be a bit out there, and I would guess that it's the softest of the 2, however that is just my feeling not something I have checked
Like as for just sending it with a long drillbit should be fine, still there are 2 factors to note. 1 there is no way of deburring down there, and aluminum get these razer sharp edges, not that you could ever stick you finger down there and get a papercut, however, if there is a burr after drilling the hole, it might fall off and damage the cooling system unless there is like a filter before the pump and radiator. You might be able to just get a filter to hook into the water line. 2 is super related, the size of the hole. Like I would generally just get a 1mm smaller drillbit, so I would not mess up the machined hole by just jamming on with a hand drill or even a drillpress. Like if the system is super sensitive, this might be a problem with like pressure and stuff. Still if you do, you can just get an accurate size drillbit to deburr. Like if you bring this to a good machine shop, they will probably spend an hour waving responsebilities and 2 minutes drilling, however then you can go down there an complain for 2 hours if they mess it up somehow ;)
Yes, and make sure you messure, so you drill the right hole from the right side if it is the outsidest channel
Hey, I want to mention of the quality difference in Teflon tapes. The white tape you are using is the cheapest and it is going to give you real headaches. You might want to consider using yellow or pink as it is going to keep you from wrenching down fittings too tightly and stressing out the aluminum threads. The yellow and pink tape are meant for oil and gas fittings, and are thicker and of much better quality material than the white which is full of holes and thin. Never buy the white stuff, even for simple plumbing. You can thank me later.
BTW. You experimented increasing production speed. That reduces the durability of the product so if you wanna avoid trash, squeze 'em slow.
Get a wrench that shows lbs of force, so you can tighten at a certain number and you'll know that each one is tight enough.
HOLY SHIT GLOW INNER CORE LET'S SEE IT
You. An use an open ended socket wrench too if you know how big it is instead of a pipe wrench the whole time
Roc is a good name for a stable midrange
i would have called the inner core mold manufacturer to get a part number on the tooling to drive those inserts... you spent hundreds of thousands of dollars with them, they will have a customer support contact...
Jesse calls me a moron at 1:33
Does anyone remember the sport champion Playstation move game? I remember being obsessed with the disc golf game of it. Why it took me this long to remember that is beyond me 😅
Difficult Decision.. Right Decision..
You’re videos like this remind me of Linus Tech Tips! That would be an awesome collaboration video
😂 hell no. Keep that bad idea to yourself
The Ridge
IT would be great if the name is the " Stream".
Don't use an adjustable wrench; not on brass, not on expensive fittings.
Fourth
Just a heads up, you and about 99% of other people are wearing your Earbud upside down. Turn it around and put the skinny part in the part of your ear that’s closed off above your EarHole . Sounds silly but way more comfortable and secure 👍. And it’s actually the way they were designed by Apple to wear.
Things nobody cares anything about for 500 please alex
@ Until you try it Jackass. can’t believe you took the time to respond with some lame ass joke about that. Somebody needs a friend. Geez
Changing video titles one at a time
We use air and soapy water to test our molds for leaks. And if they water fittings are metric, they should have be able to use a metric Allen wrench.
22 seconds lol
Just buy deep socket set
Please, for the love of liability, don’t drill into the mold yourself! Spend the time, approach the manufacturer, and point out their flaws. Have THEM fix it. That way, if it breaks, it’s not on your hands.
water temp experiments?????????????????????
Dune 2 Recycled Duunaloo
First
😂loser