I love my Scarpa Phantom Tech boots. They are the best all around boot I have. I also have a Scarpa 6000 but my feet fit better in the phantom tech. I am glad that that Scarpa has updated its zipper because the old version is susceptible to blowing out. Sometimes the cobblers can fix it and sometimes they can't
I love Scarpas too and have been wearing them for decades but unfortunately they don’t come in my size (50 EU) but La Sportiva snd Millet have some models available. It is a shame.
Your feet get cold in La Sportiva shoes because of the lack of a membrane. The membrane does a great job not only protecting against moisture but also against wind.
Its really to keep your boots waterproof even if it’s not goretex. Beeswax or some types of pfc sprays. I’ve conditioned and waterproof my coworkers boots (glacier guide) a couple of times. I recommend putting your boots in warm water and letting them dry on your feet after buying them then condition and water proofing. Bees wax works best and is the most sustainable. This works for all types of boots. Best results with leather boots
Same problem hiere with my g2 ..... till i decided to heat mold them .... yeah never heard but i saw that the exterior boot is similar to ski boots . i molded seperatly the interior liner ( damn that's narrow ) ... and after i heated just the "shell" and molt to the liner and feat ... my Hobbit feat are now happy and wide ... 105 last on my feet 😊😊😊
Hey Ryan, I have been using some G5 Evos for two seasons exclusively climbing water ice. I have pretty wide high volume feet. The zipper is hard to do up, and the boots tighten up a lot in the mid foot when I do up the zipper. Velcro also doesn't do up nicely over my midfoot. Is that normal haha? Or should I be trying something with a wider last? I also get a bit of pressure/pinch right on the top of my foot when the boot flexes going uphill from the BOA system. These are my first 1.5 boots. Thinking about trying on some Phantom Tech HDs after hearing Scarpa fits a bit wider.
Ya it sounds like the G5’s don’t fit your foot well. I would try out the phantom techs, you could also check out some Sawela’s I think those fit wonder feet and have a bit more volume.
@@ryantilley9063 Thanks! Love your content. Same story with spantiks and nepal cubes, bursting at the mid foot haha. Unfortunately it is really hard to try anything on other than Sportiva in person where I am at. Not sure I have seen Sawelas at any store in Canada with a friendly return policy. Kind of limited to Scarpa and Sportiva. Also considering trying some mt blancs but I am pretty set on an overgaiter for those slushy lake crossings :)
I bought two sizes of the Scarpa 6000HD for 6000+ metre climbs and am struggling to size them. How do I know if I’ve got the right size? There are no half sizes available and the larger one feels a bit loose in the heel unless I tighten the hell out of it whereas I can feel my big toe touch the front on the smaller one. Really appreciate some expert insight.
Had the same problem in my 6000HD’s. I took the insole out of the liner and put a beefier superfeet insole in which stopped the heel lift. The wider toe box on these are amazing though. Also, go with the bigger one as your feet are going to swell at altitude and try different socks to see what fits best with them.
@@stevosworld1656 yea no worries. The superfeets won’t work for everyone so if you have some store that measures your feet and can work with you on different insoles that may help a ton. If you look at the scarpa insole they provide in the liner boot you can see it’s super thin.
I've never tired those out, but mostly because I've never been in a store that has them. They must be more popular across the pond, if I got my hands on them I would try them out for sure!
Ya, the Zodiac techs are the lightest weight boots I showed and they're three quarter shank, the other boots were the Rebelle tech and they are warmer but still three quarter shank.
I am not sure I get your point. I understand that the Scarpa shoes fit your feet better, keep them dry and warm. Those three things are your major complaints about your La Sportiva shoes. But still, your plan is to keep wearing the La Sportiva shoes for a couple more years to save wear on your „new“ shoes. Why is your plan to punish yourself?
I see it as if I’m able to pull out the boots for specific climbs where the downfalls of the boots doesn’t effect my comfort. For example the boots only truly get my feet wetted out early season when the snow is still working its way to spring corn or solid summer snow. During the hight of summer I can wear the La Sportiva boots and my feet don’t get nearly as wet. Also, since the weather is so warm I can get away with a boot that doesn’t keep my feet as warm. I also only use the boots on the climbs when I don’t need any performance out of them, like a standard route up a volcano. Since you’re never really doing any real climbing and just walking up I can save the wear on the newer good boots for actual climbing. My main footwear is going to be my new Scarpa boots so I’ll be in those like 90% of the time, but every now and again I’ll be able to get away with the older boots. Another example is I’m going to be teaching a 5 day intro to mountaineering course on Shasta in July, and since there’s no actual climbing and it’s the hight of summer I’m planning to wear my Sportiva G5’s
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I love my Scarpa Phantom Tech boots. They are the best all around boot I have. I also have a Scarpa 6000 but my feet fit better in the phantom tech. I am glad that that Scarpa has updated its zipper because the old version is susceptible to blowing out. Sometimes the cobblers can fix it and sometimes they can't
I love Scarpas too and have been wearing them for decades but unfortunately they don’t come in my size (50 EU) but La Sportiva snd Millet have some models available. It is a shame.
I have still a pair of Koflach I bought 30 years ago, and I used 5 times. They look exactly like the ones they still have on sale.
Those boots last forever!
Plastic boots😂😂
Your feet get cold in La Sportiva shoes because of the lack of a membrane. The membrane does a great job not only protecting against moisture but also against wind.
huh?? the title says switch from la sportiva to scarpa. And in the first few seconds its a switch from scarpa to la sportiva???
Ya I flipped those around at the start, sorry for the confusion!
Its really to keep your boots waterproof even if it’s not goretex. Beeswax or some types of pfc sprays. I’ve conditioned and waterproof my coworkers boots (glacier guide) a couple of times. I recommend putting your boots in warm water and letting them dry on your feet after buying them then condition and water proofing. Bees wax works best and is the most sustainable. This works for all types of boots. Best results with leather boots
I love my well-worn Scarpa Boots. Great company and team.
Same problem hiere with my g2 ..... till i decided to heat mold them ....
yeah never heard but i saw that the exterior boot is similar to ski boots .
i molded seperatly the interior liner ( damn that's narrow ) ... and after i heated just the "shell" and molt to the liner and feat ...
my Hobbit feat are now happy and wide ... 105 last on my feet 😊😊😊
Great content thank you I'm all about keeping my feet warm😊
Excellent video... thx!!!!
Hey Ryan, I have been using some G5 Evos for two seasons exclusively climbing water ice. I have pretty wide high volume feet. The zipper is hard to do up, and the boots tighten up a lot in the mid foot when I do up the zipper. Velcro also doesn't do up nicely over my midfoot. Is that normal haha? Or should I be trying something with a wider last? I also get a bit of pressure/pinch right on the top of my foot when the boot flexes going uphill from the BOA system. These are my first 1.5 boots. Thinking about trying on some Phantom Tech HDs after hearing Scarpa fits a bit wider.
Ya it sounds like the G5’s don’t fit your foot well. I would try out the phantom techs, you could also check out some Sawela’s I think those fit wonder feet and have a bit more volume.
@@ryantilley9063 Thanks! Love your content.
Same story with spantiks and nepal cubes, bursting at the mid foot haha. Unfortunately it is really hard to try anything on other than Sportiva in person where I am at. Not sure I have seen Sawelas at any store in Canada with a friendly return policy. Kind of limited to Scarpa and Sportiva. Also considering trying some mt blancs but I am pretty set on an overgaiter for those slushy lake crossings :)
I bought two sizes of the Scarpa 6000HD for 6000+ metre climbs and am struggling to size them. How do I know if I’ve got the right size? There are no half sizes available and the larger one feels a bit loose in the heel unless I tighten the hell out of it whereas I can feel my big toe touch the front on the smaller one. Really appreciate some expert insight.
Had the same problem in my 6000HD’s. I took the insole out of the liner and put a beefier superfeet insole in which stopped the heel lift. The wider toe box on these are amazing though. Also, go with the bigger one as your feet are going to swell at altitude and try different socks to see what fits best with them.
@@UnmannedExplorations Thanks for the feedback and suggestion. I’ll give it a go and see what happens
@@stevosworld1656 yea no worries. The superfeets won’t work for everyone so if you have some store that measures your feet and can work with you on different insoles that may help a ton. If you look at the scarpa insole they provide in the liner boot you can see it’s super thin.
Several of my friends use Lasportiva Spantik for long winter expeditions. But unfortunately this model was discontinued (((
Spantik is good for big legs
Overall would you say Scarpa lasts are wider in the fore foot that La Sportivas?
Phantom tech really good
Have you ever tried Boreal boots? I am a Scarpa user and now I’m thinking on swiching to Borelar G1 Lite for a 6000 mts boot.
I've never tired those out, but mostly because I've never been in a store that has them. They must be more popular across the pond, if I got my hands on them I would try them out for sure!
Team Scarpa
I think this was well worth two pair of boots for Scarpa
In the future I would advise you to look in kayland especially the stellar gtx boot
Are the Scarpa 3/4 shank boots the Zodiac Techs?
Ya, the Zodiac techs are the lightest weight boots I showed and they're three quarter shank, the other boots were the Rebelle tech and they are warmer but still three quarter shank.
I am not sure I get your point. I understand that the Scarpa shoes fit your feet better, keep them dry and warm. Those three things are your major complaints about your La Sportiva shoes. But still, your plan is to keep wearing the La Sportiva shoes for a couple more years to save wear on your „new“ shoes. Why is your plan to punish yourself?
I see it as if I’m able to pull out the boots for specific climbs where the downfalls of the boots doesn’t effect my comfort. For example the boots only truly get my feet wetted out early season when the snow is still working its way to spring corn or solid summer snow. During the hight of summer I can wear the La Sportiva boots and my feet don’t get nearly as wet. Also, since the weather is so warm I can get away with a boot that doesn’t keep my feet as warm. I also only use the boots on the climbs when I don’t need any performance out of them, like a standard route up a volcano. Since you’re never really doing any real climbing and just walking up I can save the wear on the newer good boots for actual climbing. My main footwear is going to be my new Scarpa boots so I’ll be in those like 90% of the time, but every now and again I’ll be able to get away with the older boots. Another example is I’m going to be teaching a 5 day intro to mountaineering course on Shasta in July, and since there’s no actual climbing and it’s the hight of summer I’m planning to wear my Sportiva G5’s
@@ryantilley9063 thanks for the explanation. Makes a lot more sense now!
Dude , I think that California water is not doing you good
Scarpa is cheap compared tp lasportiva hence reason.. but some international guidr says scarpa boots front toe are weaks.😂😂