Happy Birthday - of course we care! Also did those ski boots have a removable tongue? I had a pair that did and holy cow I hated the transitions so much, and on longer adventures I'd get a panic attack half the way up thinking I forgot them in the car... though not sure how because they were terrible to pack due to the odd shape.
Ya the Dallbello have the removable tongue for skiing up hill, I've nevr used them for touring though, because I use other lighter touring specific boots. I really only use them as my resort boots, and maybe a little bit of side country touring with a cast system or a Marker duke or something like that. I just don't have any skis with that set up yet. The new version that they came out with this year has a fixed tongue, so you can tour uphill with out taking it out.
Hi Ryan, thank you very much for the video! Curious about your opinion - this year I am doing the full exum mid season on the grand. Last year on Owen Spaulding I just used a hiking boot for the backpacking in then an la sportiva tx2 for the rest. This year I am considering a lightweight hiking boot for the trip in, the tx2 for the approach and descent (they can fold up pretty small in a multipitch pack), and scarpa generators for the climb. Three shoes seems a bit much. Any opinions on how to whittle it down to a two shoe solution?
That's kind of a tough question to answer without knowing to much about you, but I'll give it a shot. The main things to consider is what you feel comfortable climbing at the grade in, you will for sure feel better climbing in climbing shoes, but if you are comfortable climbing the route in your Tx2's then you don't need to bring the climbing shoes. I do a lot of alpine climbing in approach shoes or my mountain boots. If you like the hiking boots on the way up then by all means use them, but if you can get away with a lighter approach shoe on the way up, now you only need one piece of footwear for the whole climb! Another factor is how much snow there will be, a Mid season climb could involve no snow at all, but I don't know for sure. If I were to guess I would assume most of the hiking trail will have no snow, and maybe only a little biut of patches getting into camp. There may be a little bit of snow on the route but probably not that much either. Me personally I would probably bring a few pairs of footwear in the car so I have options, if you can get some beta from another person who climbed the route a little bit before you go up there that would be best. If they say no snow I would use a high top approach shoe like the La Sportiva TX4, It's a bit more beefy than the TX2, and I would only need one piece of footwear for the whole climb. If there is a lot of snow, and I would maybe need crampons I would use the Scarpa Zodiac tech. It's made for snow and can handle a crampon. If you're using those boots you may want a climbing shoe for the rock depending on your comfort level.
Happy birthday and great video! I understand sizing is very personal but for you, would you say that a "performance" climbing shoe is a 41, comfy climbing shoe is a 41.5, and all other mountain footwear is 42.5? (all Sportiva sizing) Do you have a video discussing your opinions on how these shoes should fit/feel when properly sized?
I don't think I have a video about that yet, but it's a good topic! If I'm finding a climbing shoe that is soft then I'll often go for a tighter fit because the shoe is going to stretch out, if it's a stiffer shoe then I won't go as tight. If I wear a 42.5 in most normal shoes, then I'll often go for about 40.5 in soft shoes and they stretch out, the more comfort climbing shoes are 41 or 41.5. I'll make a video about climbing shoes soon!
@@rauliuxaa haha, isn’t that the million dollar question. One of the cheaper set ups you can do is buy some double plastic boots. A lot of companies make them like the Scarpa inferno, or the Koflac boots- not sure if I spelled that correctly. The boots may be warm enough on their own but you would want to pair them with overboots made by 40 below (the purple haze is the most common option.) the whole set up is probably about $600-700 bucks, maybe a little less depending. The only thing you’re really giving up is the set up is super heavy! But plastic boots last forever so they could be the only pair you have to buy for all your high altitude climbing. Ed Viesturs used that set up for all his 8,000m peaks
I hear that Lowe boots fit really wide feet, you could also check out Sawela and see if their boots fit a big foot. My feet are on the wider side, right foot is about 103mm, and my left is about 104mm and I still fit in the scarpa's great!
@@ryantilley9063 Thanks! Every scarpa I've tried gives me a hot spot. For reference though, I tour in scott cosmos which I think is a 104mm last? Appreciate the recs.
Happy Birthday!
The internet has ruined the term "edging" for me...
Ryan, ....Great intro to serious boots 😉
Happy B-day 🎉
This is like my dream topic.
Happy birthday !!! ATB from Norway 🇳🇴
I like the Ribelle, don’t agree that it’s really warm though. Good for summer alpinism.
Happy Birthday!
Happy Birthday - of course we care!
Also did those ski boots have a removable tongue? I had a pair that did and holy cow I hated the transitions so much, and on longer adventures I'd get a panic attack half the way up thinking I forgot them in the car... though not sure how because they were terrible to pack due to the odd shape.
Ya the Dallbello have the removable tongue for skiing up hill, I've nevr used them for touring though, because I use other lighter touring specific boots. I really only use them as my resort boots, and maybe a little bit of side country touring with a cast system or a Marker duke or something like that. I just don't have any skis with that set up yet. The new version that they came out with this year has a fixed tongue, so you can tour uphill with out taking it out.
Happy B. Congrats
HAPPY BIRTHDAY 🎉
Happy birthday
When is the crampon video coming out! (I’m buying crampons and scared I’m buying the wrong ones)
Hopefully soon, I still have to make it!
Hi Ryan, thank you very much for the video! Curious about your opinion - this year I am doing the full exum mid season on the grand. Last year on Owen Spaulding I just used a hiking boot for the backpacking in then an la sportiva tx2 for the rest. This year I am considering a lightweight hiking boot for the trip in, the tx2 for the approach and descent (they can fold up pretty small in a multipitch pack), and scarpa generators for the climb. Three shoes seems a bit much. Any opinions on how to whittle it down to a two shoe solution?
That's kind of a tough question to answer without knowing to much about you, but I'll give it a shot.
The main things to consider is what you feel comfortable climbing at the grade in, you will for sure feel better climbing in climbing shoes, but if you are comfortable climbing the route in your Tx2's then you don't need to bring the climbing shoes. I do a lot of alpine climbing in approach shoes or my mountain boots.
If you like the hiking boots on the way up then by all means use them, but if you can get away with a lighter approach shoe on the way up, now you only need one piece of footwear for the whole climb!
Another factor is how much snow there will be, a Mid season climb could involve no snow at all, but I don't know for sure. If I were to guess I would assume most of the hiking trail will have no snow, and maybe only a little biut of patches getting into camp. There may be a little bit of snow on the route but probably not that much either.
Me personally I would probably bring a few pairs of footwear in the car so I have options, if you can get some beta from another person who climbed the route a little bit before you go up there that would be best. If they say no snow I would use a high top approach shoe like the La Sportiva TX4, It's a bit more beefy than the TX2, and I would only need one piece of footwear for the whole climb. If there is a lot of snow, and I would maybe need crampons I would use the Scarpa Zodiac tech. It's made for snow and can handle a crampon. If you're using those boots you may want a climbing shoe for the rock depending on your comfort level.
Happy birthday and great video!
I understand sizing is very personal but for you, would you say that a "performance" climbing shoe is a 41, comfy climbing shoe is a 41.5, and all other mountain footwear is 42.5? (all Sportiva sizing)
Do you have a video discussing your opinions on how these shoes should fit/feel when properly sized?
I don't think I have a video about that yet, but it's a good topic! If I'm finding a climbing shoe that is soft then I'll often go for a tighter fit because the shoe is going to stretch out, if it's a stiffer shoe then I won't go as tight. If I wear a 42.5 in most normal shoes, then I'll often go for about 40.5 in soft shoes and they stretch out, the more comfort climbing shoes are 41 or 41.5. I'll make a video about climbing shoes soon!
Any advice for a boot for 6200meter mountain expedition that wouldn't break the bank?
@@rauliuxaa haha, isn’t that the million dollar question. One of the cheaper set ups you can do is buy some double plastic boots. A lot of companies make them like the Scarpa inferno, or the Koflac boots- not sure if I spelled that correctly. The boots may be warm enough on their own but you would want to pair them with overboots made by 40 below (the purple haze is the most common option.) the whole set up is probably about $600-700 bucks, maybe a little less depending. The only thing you’re really giving up is the set up is super heavy! But plastic boots last forever so they could be the only pair you have to buy for all your high altitude climbing. Ed Viesturs used that set up for all his 8,000m peaks
Hey Ryan, do you have a rec for very wide feet? I'm like a brannock D/E.
I hear that Lowe boots fit really wide feet, you could also check out Sawela and see if their boots fit a big foot. My feet are on the wider side, right foot is about 103mm, and my left is about 104mm and I still fit in the scarpa's great!
@@ryantilley9063 Thanks! Every scarpa I've tried gives me a hot spot. For reference though, I tour in scott cosmos which I think is a 104mm last? Appreciate the recs.
Can you include the costs?
The BD's are between $170 for the strap to $240 for the stinger.
The Petzl linx is $260
Happy birthday