A very interesting video! The main pigment compound here is a flavinoid called luteolin, otherwise known as weld. It is also found in dyer's rocket across Eurasia and North America. You should also be able to to dye wool or silk with it. In fact, that was its major use since the first millennium BCE, predating even woad and madder. Interestingly, if you mix it with another lake pigment woad, you get Lincoln green.
I had a feeling it was a flavinoid but I didn't know it was the same one as weld that's really cool as I was looking to source some weld. Maybe I can do a comparison between the two in the future.
Can I just say how absolutely appreciative I am of this channel and how much I love your videos! I’m trying to start making my own pigments (I am a painter) and it’s been very hard to find online resources on making pigments at home, but your channel is a saving grace! I’ll be setting out to get the necessary materials tomorrow. Thank you so much!
I love your video, very informative. Are these pigments can be used for colouring handmade soaps , DIY lipsticks and lip balms. Can we make lake pigments with beet roots, Carrots and Strawberrys?
I think you can make a pigment from just about any dye, they might however not give you the colour you are hoping for, or expecting. I'd say go wild and experiment. I can't comment on what you can use them for, as that is not something I've looked into much.
Could a blender be used for the initial grinding then go to the mortar and pestle, and can you make pastels with it. Thank you for sharing its very interesting how paint can be made, I enjoyed learning the process.
Its because a lot of the pigment ends up in the froth and its good not to add too much sodium carbonate. So by waiting until all of the froth is knocked down you can more accurately see how much pigment has been made and how much is still being precipitated when we add the soda.
@@TheAlchemicalArtssedimentation in large buckets gives less froth, more water is in volume of the colorant, less froth emerges; water's room temperature helps too. Does anybody know where sodium goes from carbonate? Does it form a water-soluble salt or does it builds in the molecule of the pigment?
I've been working on a few lake pigments and this looked really simple so I decided to give it a try. For some reason, when I added the alum to the water and pomegranate skins, it frothed up and turned a pale blue-green. The only difference I can see is that I used a purified alum (more powdery than what I was using before) instead of alum salt. It is labeled as being used as a mordant for dyes so I'm just curious if you've had this issue before
Thanks for your humility. I did it and result wonderful yellow and green, of course i used a small amount of iron for green. I wonder if you have a lake pigment recipe for alkanna tinctoria!
Have you tried this method with fresh pomegranate skin and do you know if there is a colour variation? thanks for this really detailed and instructive video. Great resulting yellow.
wonderful video. i noticed you sometimes use sulfuric acid in making lake pigments. would concentrated lemon juice to citric acid work, or would it suffer bleaching in the sunlight, since lemon juice can brighten whites and hair in sunlight while drying?
Hello :) wondering if you have tried using this exact same recipe with other fruits/végétables and if so, what colors arose? Thank you for this very informative vidéo... My pigment is currently in the drying process :)
Excellent and informative video! Certainly inspiring me to give this a go one day. A question though, wouldn't it be more efficient to do the washing steps before the initial drying of the pigment? Just seems like it'd save the effort of grinding it when it's already dispersed in a wet mixture from just after the pigment precipitated out. Thanks!
Thank you I am glad you enjoyed it. The main reason I dry then wash is because freshly precipitated pigment takes a long time to settle and is very gelatinous so in the end it's quicker to filter, dry, grind and the wash.
Fascinating process, thank you for sharing! Beautiful pigment(s), although I was expecting a more orangy color. Question: what if you skipped a few steps and just grinded the dry pomegranate skins? Would it not work? And what kind of binder do you like using? With or without honey and glycerine? That paste before drying also felt like a good base for oil paint but I am a beginner at that :) (just started learning the craft and not even an experience artist, just love experimenting & health-safe natural materials).
I think the ground skins would have to many impurities and it would not be a lake, what we are trying to do is extract particular colour compounds. I like a binder with both honey and glycerine, I have a video on the channel about my binder recipe. Once you have the dry lake pigment you can use it for oils, watercolours, pastel ect.
Great Video and tutorial. Presumably one cannot make oil paints from the pigment? Also can you use the pomegranate seeds to get a deep red pigment with the same process?
How do you know how much dyestuff to use? Is the alum always equal weight? I'm wondering about cochineal as it's a very strong color that only uses around 6% the weight of fiber when dyeing, would you still use equal weight in alum when making a lake pigment with cochineal?
this is AMAZING 😍😍😍 how lightfast is it? I expect it to be less permanent than common synthetic pigments but just to know if it can be used to dye a shirt or so? 😍
The best known yellow plant pigment for lightfastness is luteolin from Weld or Goldenrod. At BEST this is that, and may actually be anthacyanins which are worse. Even weld has only level IV lightfastness, which is quite poor, will fade severely over months.
I have a peculiar question. I have a book that talks about older mordanting methods. One of them is by using oak galls. Could someone explain if this is possible and how?
Hello, your video is really helpfull.could you please explain me how do you prépare your watercolor binder and how do you store your watercolors? thank's a lot
Thanks for this video. It's been very useful. Do you happen to know how you would extract a lake pigment from a plant who's dye needs to be extracted with alcohol
Wonder if you could stick it in an Aeropress to filter it lol. Edit: Is it more efficient, for lack of a better word, to initially try and grind the pigment in the mortar and pestle very thoroughly or put more effort into the mixing part with the muller? I guess it makes more sense to do it to the best of a person's ability at both stages, but if you find you didn't grind it well enough, should you go back and grind the rest or move ahead is what I'm trying to ask ha. I made this way more convoluted than I had to sorry.
Hi! I am so grateful you uploaded this video! I tried this step by step and everything was going on well until the last part. I poured the soda ash and it was fizzing a lot, I thought well, i will have a lot of pigment. The I left to settle all night and the next day no visible signs of setteling. Began to filter and it seems to be very little amount of pigment, and the filtered liquid still pretty coloured. Can you tell me what did I wrong? Thanks a lot for you channel! Greetings from Argentina!
hello. I did many lake pigments and sometimes this issue happened too. I think this is in spite of the fact that colorant amount was too little towards the alum/potash (or soda) proportion. Greetings from Russia.
Is there a way to make them last longer? I worry about natural plant pigments molding or degrading fast on paper. I see a lot of debate on various pigment channels saying that colors made like this shouldn’t be used in professional work since synthetic brands would normally last longer….and the other saying you can. I’d worry about giving someone a painting made with these and only have it last a year 🥺 of course I’m sure all pigments will last a while if away from the sun.
most likely it is as lightfast as is the lake from reseda luteola, I test this pigment, it is exposed to sun for one month, it still had no change, I'll wait one year before making conclusion.
I tried this, and when I add the washing soda, it immediately turns a puke-green color. It precipitated and created a pigment powder just fine. It is just puke green instead of yellow ?? Up until then, everything looked exactly the same, same deep golden reddish hue in the boiled soup. I did add the alum after 20 mins and simmered another 40. Solutions were both hot. Any ideas? I saw someone else below mention green-ness but now I can't find their comment anymore.
@@TheAlchemicalArts Aha! Yes I was working on synthetic rust pigments just before this, that makes a ton of sense then, just didn't clean things out well enough probably. Thank you!
I would to thank you for your video and for your youtube channel. Just so informative. Also, I would to ask to you if you have some book references suggestion, where we can learn more about making our own pigment (I’m an artist too..😁). Thank you again.
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A very interesting video! The main pigment compound here is a flavinoid called luteolin, otherwise known as weld. It is also found in dyer's rocket across Eurasia and North America. You should also be able to to dye wool or silk with it. In fact, that was its major use since the first millennium BCE, predating even woad and madder. Interestingly, if you mix it with another lake pigment woad, you get Lincoln green.
I had a feeling it was a flavinoid but I didn't know it was the same one as weld that's really cool as I was looking to source some weld. Maybe I can do a comparison between the two in the future.
that is very interesting
Can I just say how absolutely appreciative I am of this channel and how much I love your videos! I’m trying to start making my own pigments (I am a painter) and it’s been very hard to find online resources on making pigments at home, but your channel is a saving grace! I’ll be setting out to get the necessary materials tomorrow. Thank you so much!
Really cool!! I never knew how lake pigments were created! That was quite a moment when the dark flakes turn to a gold powder!
Thanks. You have made one of the clearest presentations of the lake process that I have seen on RUclips. I like how you gave measurements and all.
Please upload video about making pigments from beets
That would make a beautiful highlight on a sunflower!
I love your video, very informative. Are these pigments can be used for colouring handmade soaps , DIY lipsticks and lip balms. Can we make lake pigments with beet roots, Carrots and Strawberrys?
I think you can make a pigment from just about any dye, they might however not give you the colour you are hoping for, or expecting. I'd say go wild and experiment.
I can't comment on what you can use them for, as that is not something I've looked into much.
Thank you
Hi, have you tested its light-fastness? Can you please inform us your findings since it is plant-based? I enjoy your vids :-))
Thank you for the tutorial! I tried this process at home, but my solution turned green after adding the soda.
Update: I tried again using a different soda made from sodium bicarbonate and it worked well! Cheers!
Brilliant….clear & easy to follow…..thank you !….I’m keen to try myself
Could a blender be used for the initial grinding then go to the mortar and pestle, and can you make pastels with it. Thank you for sharing its very interesting how paint can be made, I enjoyed learning the process.
It really reminds me of py150, however, I’m afraid it is not lightfast as beautiful as it is. Thank you for the video!
Love this, I hope to see more of your endeavours ❤
Thank you for a great tutorial! It's very close to a quinacridone yellow I think, really beautiful color.
Thank you for sharing this! It really is helping me who start to try making my own pigment from my garden. You are awesome!
Can you please explain more why we should stir and stop the forth while adding sodium carbonate?!
And Thank you for making this great video.
Its because a lot of the pigment ends up in the froth and its good not to add too much sodium carbonate. So by waiting until all of the froth is knocked down you can more accurately see how much pigment has been made and how much is still being precipitated when we add the soda.
@@TheAlchemicalArtsThank you for the explanation. Looking forward to more videos from you.
@@TheAlchemicalArtssedimentation in large buckets gives less froth, more water is in volume of the colorant, less froth emerges; water's room temperature helps too. Does anybody know where sodium goes from carbonate? Does it form a water-soluble salt or does it builds in the molecule of the pigment?
I've been working on a few lake pigments and this looked really simple so I decided to give it a try. For some reason, when I added the alum to the water and pomegranate skins, it frothed up and turned a pale blue-green. The only difference I can see is that I used a purified alum (more powdery than what I was using before) instead of alum salt. It is labeled as being used as a mordant for dyes so I'm just curious if you've had this issue before
Thanks for your humility. I did it and result wonderful yellow and green, of course i used a small amount of iron for green. I wonder if you have a lake pigment recipe for alkanna tinctoria!
wow, increíble aporte. Gracias desde México!
Adorable!
Awesome, I was thinking about turning fruits into paint. Learned a lot about pigments
Hi there, I enjoy your videos. Did you test this pigment's light fastness? Thanks a bunch again.
How does it stand up as far as light fastness goes. Thanks again I enjoyed watching it again.
Have you tried this method with fresh pomegranate skin and do you know if there is a colour variation? thanks for this really detailed and instructive video. Great resulting yellow.
I haven't done it with completely fresh but I have done it with skins that were about a day or so old and there wasn't much difference in the colour.
Excellent.. clear, concise and fun. Thank You. :) ( a nice big piece of cloth !)
Brilliant!
Thank you for the video! Will the color fade through time?
This is such a great idea for a video!
Fantastic tutorial and colour, Thank you!!!!
wow amazing!! you know if the pigments are edible? and good for the skin??
wonderful video. i noticed you sometimes use sulfuric acid in making lake pigments. would concentrated lemon juice to citric acid work, or would it suffer bleaching in the sunlight, since lemon juice can brighten whites and hair in sunlight while drying?
Very well done. :Clear, covered the smaller details of this process and was a fluid explanation and video tutorial.
Hello :) wondering if you have tried using this exact same recipe with other fruits/végétables and if so, what colors arose?
Thank you for this very informative vidéo... My pigment is currently in the drying process :)
Thank you, very interesting !
Thank you so much for sharing such a wonderful video. I have tried but my pigment is not drying since last 4 days after adding binder.
Hello and thank you so much for this video
Excellent and informative video! Certainly inspiring me to give this a go one day.
A question though, wouldn't it be more efficient to do the washing steps before the initial drying of the pigment? Just seems like it'd save the effort of grinding it when it's already dispersed in a wet mixture from just after the pigment precipitated out. Thanks!
Thank you I am glad you enjoyed it. The main reason I dry then wash is because freshly precipitated pigment takes a long time to settle and is very gelatinous so in the end it's quicker to filter, dry, grind and the wash.
@@TheAlchemicalArts oh that makes a lot of sense! thanks for the reply! :D
Fascinating process, thank you for sharing! Beautiful pigment(s), although I was expecting a more orangy color. Question: what if you skipped a few steps and just grinded the dry pomegranate skins? Would it not work? And what kind of binder do you like using? With or without honey and glycerine?
That paste before drying also felt like a good base for oil paint but I am a beginner at that :) (just started learning the craft and not even an experience artist, just love experimenting & health-safe natural materials).
The paste is watery so it wouldn't mix into oil paint. Dry lake pigments should generally be fine to also make into oil paints, though.
I think the ground skins would have to many impurities and it would not be a lake, what we are trying to do is extract particular colour compounds. I like a binder with both honey and glycerine, I have a video on the channel about my binder recipe. Once you have the dry lake pigment you can use it for oils, watercolours, pastel ect.
Great Video and tutorial.
Presumably one cannot make oil paints from the pigment?
Also can you use the pomegranate seeds to get a deep red pigment with the same process?
I think it is possible, watercolor and oil painting are different mediums, you can try it with poppy oil mixed with pastels.
Enjoyed the process. How do you address the lightfastness?
How do you know how much dyestuff to use? Is the alum always equal weight? I'm wondering about cochineal as it's a very strong color that only uses around 6% the weight of fiber when dyeing, would you still use equal weight in alum when making a lake pigment with cochineal?
this is AMAZING 😍😍😍
how lightfast is it? I expect it to be less permanent than common synthetic pigments but just to know if it can be used to dye a shirt or so? 😍
The best known yellow plant pigment for lightfastness is luteolin from Weld or Goldenrod. At BEST this is that, and may actually be anthacyanins which are worse. Even weld has only level IV lightfastness, which is quite poor, will fade severely over months.
Ayyy I just subscribed yesterday, its cool to see a new upload already. Im excited to watch.
I have a peculiar question. I have a book that talks about older mordanting methods. One of them is by using oak galls. Could someone explain if this is possible and how?
Hello! thank you for the video. Could you please tell me, is potassium aluminium sulfate the same thing as aluminium sulfate?
Hello, your video is really helpfull.could you please explain me how do you prépare your watercolor binder and how do you store your watercolors? thank's a lot
You are a genius!! I've learned sooooooooo much from your channel!!! Hope to see more and more pigments to make
super! Thanks for sharing
How are transparency and lightfastness of this pigment? Did you test under the sunlight or UV?
Woe. Thats a great tutorial. Thanks a lot
Thank you so much.
Thank you! nice pigment!
Thanks for this video. It's been very useful. Do you happen to know how you would extract a lake pigment from a plant who's dye needs to be extracted with alcohol
Love your channel man
that's so cooolll
Was that an owl in the background hooting while you were experimenting with watercolors?
Or...a rooster?
How light fast is this? With any of these natural pigments, I'd like to try it with orange peels, how can you tell or make it lightfast?
I used a lot more plant material... could this be why I got no fizz?
Great! Thank you so much
Wonder if you could stick it in an Aeropress to filter it lol.
Edit: Is it more efficient, for lack of a better word, to initially try and grind the pigment in the mortar and pestle very thoroughly or put more effort into the mixing part with the muller? I guess it makes more sense to do it to the best of a person's ability at both stages, but if you find you didn't grind it well enough, should you go back and grind the rest or move ahead is what I'm trying to ask ha. I made this way more convoluted than I had to sorry.
Would think it is easier to turn it powdery when dry???
Can you use the juice to make a pigment.
Not really the colour of the juice will fade very quickly in sunlight.
Hi! I am so grateful you uploaded this video! I tried this step by step and everything was going on well until the last part. I poured the soda ash and it was fizzing a lot, I thought well, i will have a lot of pigment. The I left to settle all night and the next day no visible signs of setteling. Began to filter and it seems to be very little amount of pigment, and the filtered liquid still pretty coloured. Can you tell me what did I wrong? Thanks a lot for you channel! Greetings from Argentina!
hello. I did many lake pigments and sometimes this issue happened too. I think this is in spite of the fact that colorant amount was too little towards the alum/potash (or soda) proportion. Greetings from Russia.
Soda ash is a different product - think that is caustic soda!!!
Is there a way to make them last longer? I worry about natural plant pigments molding or degrading fast on paper. I see a lot of debate on various pigment channels saying that colors made like this shouldn’t be used in professional work since synthetic brands would normally last longer….and the other saying you can. I’d worry about giving someone a painting made with these and only have it last a year 🥺 of course I’m sure all pigments will last a while if away from the sun.
you mentioned a water color bind. Could you let us in on the content of this? Thanks
Gum arabic is the only absolutely necessary thing for that, but a bit of honey and/or glycerin will make it a lot nicer.
Very cool
Umber of Pomegranate
How archival is this pigment? Interested in making natural pigments that don’t fade 👍
most likely it is as lightfast as is the lake from reseda luteola, I test this pigment, it is exposed to sun for one month, it still had no change, I'll wait one year before making conclusion.
is calcium carbonate and sodium carbonate the same for this use?
Is it sodium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate? and should I use a magnetic stirrer when adding the sodium (bi)carbonate?
You can use either but the bicarbonate will cause more foam. I stir either by hand or with a stir bar when adding my alkali
I notice that your link of Instagram page is expired.
Thank you so much!
Sad day I did it wrong, mine is a little grainy
Maybe you just need to grind it a little more to get it finer.
does this pigment is laightfast?
No.
what does alkali plays a role in all that
I tried this, and when I add the washing soda, it immediately turns a puke-green color. It precipitated and created a pigment powder just fine. It is just puke green instead of yellow ?? Up until then, everything looked exactly the same, same deep golden reddish hue in the boiled soup. I did add the alum after 20 mins and simmered another 40. Solutions were both hot. Any ideas? I saw someone else below mention green-ness but now I can't find their comment anymore.
Tiny amounts of iron impurities can cause a green colour to appear.
@@TheAlchemicalArts Aha! Yes I was working on synthetic rust pigments just before this, that makes a ton of sense then, just didn't clean things out well enough probably. Thank you!
I would to thank you for your video and for your youtube channel. Just so informative. Also, I would to ask to you if you have some book references suggestion, where we can learn more about making our own pigment (I’m an artist too..😁). Thank you again.
It looks like Gambodge.
It is similar, maybe a little more brown than gamboge.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Tbh it looks like mummy brown.
Ebnsee