MAKE YOUR RC DRAG CAR GO STRAIGHT AND DRIVE EASY!! | FRONT LIMITING | RADIO RAMPING | CORNER BALANCE
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- Опубликовано: 24 июл 2024
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Awesome content as always...Thanks for sharing & that chassis is super sweet! \m/
Thanks for watching!
Me coming here after first time launching my drag rc without tsm 😂. Excited to watch this video. 🙏
Hope can help. Lots of info over the past few years here
ok i got a question i just got a drag pak slash mid motor and all it does is do a wheelie and spin the tires and go left any ideas of what is
no traction id say. heat and prep the tires and see what you can get
Good information is great. But there is no substitute for putting in the work. Like you said you got to put in work. Thanks for the videos.
for sure man..thanks for stopping by
Let’s go🔥🔥🔥
Asome brow i have Problemes do get straight i hope your video helps nice day Manuel from Europa
hope so man..good luck
Great video 👍
Appreciate it sir
Are you allowed to use a gyro for racing? Have one in my Traxxas short course truck and it runs almost dead strait, even offroad. Not racing, just bashing. It's just a old, but quality heli gyro, running in rate mode, heading hold mode works for strait line, but I find it drives quite strange when cornering is involved, guess it was never designed for a car, lol.
No gyro in our kind of drag racing.
Are you using internal limiters on your front shocks in addition to the external ones? I'm thinking shock setup could be a big part of my issue right now.
Yes but just a small amount. I also run the front shafts in the back. Not limited. All that stuff in that video made a major impact to my car.
I have a losi 22 drag truck...what weight shock oil should i use for front and back?? Thanks
I’d start with 20-25. Very light.
Good video. Does Sanwa offer a receiver with a gyro for the M17? I dont drag yet, Im a speedrunner
not that ive seen
Straight seems to be the holy grail for me. I launch at 30% but it's very twitchy on the run. Balanced well, front and rear limiters. Front steering components seem a little loose though. Thinking about upgrading them (DR10) and maybe adding just a hair toe in. Any thoughts?
Toe out seems better for me. Most I see run out or nearly zero. You have a good servo? Using a horn or a saver?
@@Dorkyand40 Stock servo, aluminum horn (no saver - lost that one in the last wreck..). Interested in your front shock travel - only 1/4"? Sitting bones level?
Yep. Sits fine. They made that a rule for a reason I guess.
toe OUT
I know you said you raise the timing up to 60° but what is your N Bell timing set at
it was set per nick bell and his testing so it wouldnt match yours but i would at least run 30deg on a 3.5-4.5T motor
💯👍🏾
What is the wheelie bar box for?
I also noticed you had two boxes up front. Are they just for weight
The breakout has boxes for the bar snd bumper that house little tungsten weights.
@@Dorkyand40
You think you might be able to do a video on the weights in the white boxes when do we know to add the weight up front when do we know the add the weight in the back and how much
I’ve got a little bit of that in an upcoming video on my brisket chassis. Whatever car you got the rule of thumb is 40 front snd 60 back on a set of corner scales. You also want the corner to corner weight equal. So if you’re serious you’ll want to buy a set of those. Their should be a link in my video descriptions.
the external shock limitors are removable without taking shock off? if so where did you get them? Thanks
i have afew friends that print them. ive seen them posted in a lot of the no prpep groups on facebook
@@Dorkyand40 does he sell them? If so would you share his contact info so that i can order some. thanks
Scott. If you look in the description there’s a link to marks TikTok channel. He makes them and you can message him there.
Hey what's a good Radio to run on a budget build not trying to break the bank I jus wanna have a lil fun
I’d get the cheaper sanwa or the futaba 4pxr
Thanks
If my car spin out on the initial launch of the line which rear shock do i need to adjust
try to heat and prep and turn it down a bit man
@@Dorkyand40 there's no power in the car so thats not the issue however I found the answer I was looking for. Thanks
Are you saying your chassis is scraping the ground under power or in the shutdown
During my first shake downs I noticed it was way too low and could bottom out in a bad scenario. So I added limiters to bring that up some. Now I added more to take away even more travel. It’s made a huge difference and getting that smashed fuel tube out of there and replacing with something more substantial. Did you not race this weekend? Haven’t seen any video?
@@Dorkyand40 got you good vid... the way I do it is I limit the extension of the shock internally to get desired ride weight, then crank the spring down all the way.. you got to hit something hard to compress that.. be careful changing tall Tires Too Short front tires.. changes your rear hingepin angle and affects the whole anti squat or squat. However which way you have your car set-up
Back to the talls for me. The little ones just were too inconsistent. They work but like you said I’m able to get my ride height where I want it now this way vs using the smaller tire to cheat. Thanks for the encouragement brother.
@@Dorkyand40 hell yeah we're all learning together my friend .... I prefer the shorter tires so I can lower my frontal area of the body and create more downforce for it ,and adjust my chassis accordingly ..... hope to meet you down here in January MIA 16,000 to win so far
Can you do a video on fwd rc drag racing
Possibly!
If you need anything let me know
Who makes those clip on limiters for shock shafts?
I’ve seen them online and on thingiverse to print.
@@Dorkyand40 ahh ok. I don't have a printer. I will have to see if I can find em. Great idea for tuning.
@@Dorkyand40 found some on ebay. 5.95 a set.
Not gonna run the tekin at all anymore?
unsure..want to try this beast
Wat drone u got
I have a few :)
Tryna stay budget friendly and get one
Looked at ur channel couldn’t find anything