I've had to do this in the past. One was water damage and the other was termites. For the termites we braced and jacked the roof trusses and replaced full length studs. For the water damage we did it more like what you are showing. We used PT bottom plate and 3 old 2x4s that had been in the garage for many years. We stacked them from the floor up against the studs and marked the studs from their height to make our cuts. It was actually a pretty good and fast job. Much easier than we expected. Because we only took out about a foot high worth of drywall, it was easier to pre-drill and screw it all together. Mudding and painting took the most time..
Thank you so much! We bought an old stone cottage. The roof had caved in. Lots of water damage. We have to replace the bottom plate that has rotted. Now we know how!
You can cut the old anchor bolt, slide the bottom plate in place, and drill through the plate into the concrete a couple of inches away and install new bolts through the plate into the concrete.
This is fantastic. I'd like to see a video on how to replace bad top plate and properly stagger the breaks and fasten when you can only get to it from one side. I have 11' of garage wall where only the sill plate is okay.
Is this correct? If a j bolt is too short and stripped, the only way is to drill a new hole next to it and use a wedge anchor. Can the threads be fixed?
At 5:51 you mention a link on "how to support the wall while cutting things out". I tried to go to your page but cannot seem to locate the mentioned video. Can you help with a direct link please? Thanks!
Thanks for letting me know and I installed a couple of links in the video. These two links might provide you with what you're looking for, but let me know if they don't. ruclips.net/video/3A9qNOLCvxg/видео.html ruclips.net/video/3O8UHPOMWE8/видео.html
Thank you. the second link you posted was the link i'm looking for. my only question is this makes the assumptions that I will be doing the repairs from the inside. in my case, I'm going to be make the replacement from the outside. I have a traditional 2 story house with a rotting framing plate on a concrete slab... basically all around the majority of the house that needs to be replaced along with the siding. so I was going to fix the plate at the same time. My plan was to simply rebuild a frame inside, against the wall in side, even screwing the 2x4s to the studs through the existing drywall. but basically making a second frame along the whole of the wall. do you see any problems with this? I like your videos and I know you aren't a structural engineer but you feedback would be nice.
Thanks. My wall is behind the fridge,upper kitchen cabinets and pantry ... and the exterior of the house is stone. Do you think it is possible to replace the sill plate in sections (maybe 16" at a time) and skip the temporary braces? Then I could go back on top of the sill plate with additional 2x4 to tie it/brace it all together. Or something along those lines ...
I cannot provide you with a yes or no answer, because I don't know what type of building construction you're dealing with, but can tell you that I have replaced damaged bottom plates in sections. If this is what you are going to do, then try and make these sections as long as possible, within reason.
For the second option, cutting the stud and replacing the plate over existing anchor bolts.. couldn’t you cut higher, like say 12-16 inches, so when you replace the piece you cut, you would be able to put a nail back in there to the plate without splitting? It would also be stronger with more nails on the sistered stud. You could even throw a little glue in there for good measure.
I would need to see a picture of it, to understand exactly what you are doing, but you can cut wall framing studs as long as you install a new one next to it.
how do you actually jack it up? I have scissor trusses (mobile home) so I planned on jacking from outside , off of 2x8's lagged to a few wall studs over the plate I need to replace. But Im worried the jacks may kick out .
I use screw jacks or hydraulic jacks and I would watch a few more videos until you are comfortable with what you're doing. This is dangerous and I don't have a guaranteed method that works for everyone.
Thank you for the great video. As an alternate to the 3rd version you mentioned couldn't one cut the studs a little higher up (12"s? up couldn't one then create a small framed box (with studs inside the box all the same locations) and then anchor the studs to the box?
Nice video! You mentioned that you would post a link to a video on how to jack up the wall studs so you take the weight off of the sill you are replacing. I don’t see that video on your website. Can you share that? Thanks.
I think I already answered your question on another page or with an email, but see if this helps.ruclips.net/video/FhwBe-e-6Q8/видео.html if I didn't answer the question.
I can only provide you with an opinion, since I don't know exactly what you're dealing with, but I don't think you would have a problem using the second method suggested as long as you install a full-length wall stud next to each wall stud that was cut at the bottom so that the base framing plate could be replaced with holes drilled in it instead of notches.
@@meseretgherezghier2132 I just use Bondo. I dug out a bunch of the rotted wood and smothered it with Bondo over and over it was behind a wall so I didn't bother sanding. Bondo anda prayer, that's should work
Good Day, thank you for your video. Is there a a reason why you cannot cut out the existing anchor bolts, drill new holes, and install new anchors?
I've had to do this in the past. One was water damage and the other was termites. For the termites we braced and jacked the roof trusses and replaced full length studs. For the water damage we did it more like what you are showing. We used PT bottom plate and 3 old 2x4s that had been in the garage for many years. We stacked them from the floor up against the studs and marked the studs from their height to make our cuts. It was actually a pretty good and fast job. Much easier than we expected. Because we only took out about a foot high worth of drywall, it was easier to pre-drill and screw it all together. Mudding and painting took the most time..
Thank you for this information! I have a exterior wall that is failing due to fungus rot. You just gave me options!
Wonderful!
Beautiful graphics and examples
Many thanks
perfect just the info I needed. I haven't found any Contant that had this info simplified.
Great to hear!
Great video!
Excellent explanations. It is good to give optional approaches. Great clarity.
WELL DONE... GOOD EXPLANATION...THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
Didn’t explain how you lift wall weight maybe brain fart
Thank you so much! We bought an old stone cottage. The roof had caved in. Lots of water damage. We have to replace the bottom plate that has rotted. Now we know how!
You're welcome and I'm glad it helped.
You can cut the old anchor bolt, slide the bottom plate in place, and drill through the plate into the concrete a couple of inches away and install new bolts through the plate into the concrete.
This is fantastic. I'd like to see a video on how to replace bad top plate and properly stagger the breaks and fasten when you can only get to it from one side. I have 11' of garage wall where only the sill plate is okay.
Noted
Fantastic source. Great 3D drawings to help illustrate the issue.
Thanks
Is this correct? If a j bolt is too short and stripped, the only way is to drill a new hole next to it and use a wedge anchor. Can the threads be fixed?
Great vid! Extremely helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
At 5:51 you mention a link on "how to support the wall while cutting things out". I tried to go to your page but cannot seem to locate the mentioned video. Can you help with a direct link please? Thanks!
I'm having the same issue I would really like to know how to support the wall on a load bearing wall to replace the framing plate
Thanks for letting me know and I installed a couple of links in the video. These two links might provide you with what you're looking for, but let me know if they don't.
ruclips.net/video/3A9qNOLCvxg/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/3O8UHPOMWE8/видео.html
Thank you. the second link you posted was the link i'm looking for. my only question is this makes the assumptions that I will be doing the repairs from the inside. in my case, I'm going to be make the replacement from the outside. I have a traditional 2 story house with a rotting framing plate on a concrete slab... basically all around the majority of the house that needs to be replaced along with the siding. so I was going to fix the plate at the same time. My plan was to simply rebuild a frame inside, against the wall in side, even screwing the 2x4s to the studs through the existing drywall. but basically making a second frame along the whole of the wall. do you see any problems with this? I like your videos and I know you aren't a structural engineer but you feedback would be nice.
Thanks. My wall is behind the fridge,upper kitchen cabinets and pantry ... and the exterior of the house is stone. Do you think it is possible to replace the sill plate in sections (maybe 16" at a time) and skip the temporary braces? Then I could go back on top of the sill plate with additional 2x4 to tie it/brace it all together. Or something along those lines ...
I cannot provide you with a yes or no answer, because I don't know what type of building construction you're dealing with, but can tell you that I have replaced damaged bottom plates in sections. If this is what you are going to do, then try and make these sections as long as possible, within reason.
For the second option, cutting the stud and replacing the plate over existing anchor bolts.. couldn’t you cut higher, like say 12-16 inches, so when you replace the piece you cut, you would be able to put a nail back in there to the plate without splitting? It would also be stronger with more nails on the sistered stud. You could even throw a little glue in there for good measure.
I would need to see a picture of it, to understand exactly what you are doing, but you can cut wall framing studs as long as you install a new one next to it.
how do you actually jack it up? I have scissor trusses (mobile home) so I planned on jacking from outside , off of 2x8's lagged to a few wall studs over the plate I need to replace. But Im worried the jacks may kick out .
I use screw jacks or hydraulic jacks and I would watch a few more videos until you are comfortable with what you're doing. This is dangerous and I don't have a guaranteed method that works for everyone.
Thank you for the great video. As an alternate to the 3rd version you mentioned couldn't one cut the studs a little higher up (12"s? up couldn't one then create a small framed box (with studs inside the box all the same locations) and then anchor the studs to the box?
Yes I think that would work also and great idea.
Thank you
Nice video! You mentioned that you would post a link to a video on how to jack up the wall studs so you take the weight off of the sill you are replacing. I don’t see that video on your website. Can you share that? Thanks.
Let me know if this helps ruclips.net/video/FhwBe-e-6Q8/видео.html
I think I already answered your question on another page or with an email, but see if this helps.ruclips.net/video/FhwBe-e-6Q8/видео.html if I didn't answer the question.
Could i do the second method on a load bearing wall or would I need to replace the hole stud?
I can only provide you with an opinion, since I don't know exactly what you're dealing with, but I don't think you would have a problem using the second method suggested as long as you install a full-length wall stud next to each wall stud that was cut at the bottom so that the base framing plate could be replaced with holes drilled in it instead of notches.
gregvancom ok Thank you
Hello Greg...thumbs up.
I am facing this right now.. .I feel totally screwed.
How did it go? I’m dealing with this now
@@meseretgherezghier2132 I just use Bondo. I dug out a bunch of the rotted wood and smothered it with Bondo over and over it was behind a wall so I didn't bother sanding. Bondo anda prayer, that's should work
Cant you cut the anchor bolts put new ones in next to the old bolts with your new bottom plate.
I've seen it done, just leave at least a few inches between new and old bolts.
The audio is clicking all around my headphones, awful