Jackie O's!!! I would definitely drop the boil addition all together. The high alpha hops that you have in the whirlpool are contributing a lot of bitterness. At least that's what I found in my experiments. 👍🍻
@@HopsANDgnarly Its the same for me, around 125g on the whirlpool (same hops I use on dryhop) at 82C for 15min is the golden spot on bitterness and flavour for me. By the way, really awesome series, the atmosphere of your videos makes It so enjoyable to watch, can't wait for the next episodes, cheers!
Can’t help but to feel special when I hear “grams” in the whirlpool additions! another great video for this series, perhaps at the end you could try to taste the first iteration of this recipe against the final winning version just to see how far you’ve come!
Great video, thanks! Maybe if you could display unit conversion on screen everytime you mention a temperature or weigth, that could really help the non-US viewer. Cheers!
Keep it up! I'm gonna have to get one of those aromatics boxes! I have to agree with Short Circuited's comment down below, I don't like to add anything to the boil in my hazies since I get a decent amount of bitterness from the whirlpool alone, but that's just my preference. Great video!
I’m willing to try pretty much anything lol but the previous batches I didn’t have it and it just wasn’t quite where I want it. The aroma kit was fun! And honestly I’m done with it so I’d be totally happy to mail it to you!
Still AWESOME videos, I'm loving this season! A note on oxidation. Active yeast will chew up any oxygen quickly, so making your hop addition during the height of fermentation when yeast cells are most abundant is the best time to do it. Any oxygen contamination must have happened after fermentation. My guess is during packaging.
Yeah ideally for the experiments there's a closed transfer to kegs and then tasting from there. Your canning setup is awesome though I wish I had something like that
Loving the move into experimental terrain. From what I read dry hops supposed to undergo biotransformation should not be added at the peak of yeast activity, but somewhat after the peak. The reason for this was that the volatile aroma compounds of hops would be blown off by the stream of CO2 to a greater extent if added at peak. This is obviously a trade off situation, but you might wanna play with the timing to achieve the best result.
Great video. As I'm watching this I'm trying to make up my mind if I should dry hop today, during active fermentation on day 2,or wait another 2 days. Damn, can't decide
I like Chinook alongside Citra and El Dorado. It is a little dull when used with only one variety, but with two other strong veriiteies it acts like a third dimension and drives the beer more towards tropical aromas rather than orange (which I don't prefer in hazies). One good thing about Chinook is it's very cheap and you can easily find pellets of latest harvest. About oxidation, I think sticking a hop bag on the interior wall of the FV with a magnet and pulling it off during high krausen is the easiest and safest way without opening it.
Just planted some Chinook! That’s a good tip! I haven’t tried the magnet approach but I’ve seen TheApartmentBrewer use that technique with success. I’ll have to give it a shot sometime! Cheers 🍻
I have a Anvil also and love it, I see that you are not sparging or adding any additional water before boil so are putting the complete volume of water for your boil in the mash? I was following the guide and adding the required water per pounds of grain and then adding the extra gallon or two during sparging. I have also thought about the 1.5 quart of per pounds of grain rule then sparging the rest after for boil, thoughts on your process?
Personally I don’t see a big difference in efficiency when I sparge so I’ve started to skip it and just bump my efficiency down a couple percentage points. The manual had info on both procedures. I have made sure to still mash out and that seems to work well. Large grain bills are probably the only time I’d sparge and just because it takes up more space in the kettle. If you try a no sparge let me know how it goes
Great video! I love the experimentation and sharing your results. Shows us how we can all work on making our own "perfect" beer. Looking forward to future videos. Cheers!!
Awesome video! A little confused by the end result though? Did you really prefer the biotransform and what exactly what different between the two that you noticed the biotransform helped? Also as side question. How long was the total fermentation? (7 day fermentation) (7 day dry hop) (2 day cold crash)?
Something went wrong with the dry hop on the bio hopped beer but the hop combo is great and I really like the single hopped version. Next time I’ll bio hop again and see what happens. Yea so if brew day is day 0 I bio hopped day 1 dry hopped day 7 and cold crashed day 8 and 9. The best way to know what to do next is by checking the gravity
@@HopsANDgnarly This is really useful information. A problem I'm having in mine right now is that I'm dry hopping after day 7. Then again 4 days later to double dry hop but I'm getting a lot of hop resin in my beer when I keg. It makes it really bitter it's like the hops haven't really dropped out and i taste the actual hop and not the hop oils. This video is perfect for what I'm doing right now. Maybe I will do a biotransform and a 7 day hop instead of one with 4 days left.
I like to factor the cold crash into that last dry hop in BeerSmith too. A good two day cold crash helps drop the hops but a little time in the keg can be really beneficial. I usually carb the slow way and then drink the first couple pours before packaging or serving friends. Cheers man!
I've seen Idaho 7 as an awesome whirlpool addition hop, Im not sure if I've seen it so much in dry hop. However kudos on the citra addition for bitterness. I think a lot of neipas miss the ball by not having a bittering addition to balance the beer. I'm excited to see what you got for yeast stains, I don't have access to imperial unless I want to spend close to $30 on yeast. I also find El dorado to have hop creep every time I DH with it
What would be different between whirlpool and dry hop? It’s a killer variety! Wow that’s steep for yeast! That’s the one I’ve been most excited about. Can’t wait!
I suspect your Hazies will get much better with a different yeast. I tried a few heavily hopped beers with Chico (not really NEIPAs) and they always started to lose hop flavor and haze after a few weeks. Same with WLP013 London (I had hoped it would work as it is my goto yeast for Porters and Milds). I have made some wonderful hazies with London III and Voss. I am looking forward to trying the Verdant dry yeast.
I’m so stoked for this next one! I think you’re totally right. Curious about verdant and also I feel like it’d be a good hop tolerance test to chuck some Philly sour in
What is your efficiency like? I'm getting something crazy like 90-92% efficiency with a Brewzilla and it made me have to scale back my base malts quite a bit, which lowered the color in some lighter beers. So then I had to compensate by adding some munich to bring the color back up to where it should be. It's an interesting problem to have.
Dang! The BrewEasy is right around 70%. That’s a very interesting problem to have! I guess you could cut your mash short but that kinda defeats the purpose lol
@@HopsANDgnarly I'm milling kind of fine, mashing for 75 minutes, and doing a slow sparge. All of those things combined seem to help. I always mash out at 161F for 15 minutes to get a glycoprotein rest which seems to improve head retention a bit, that's where the extra mash time comes from.
Good question! I’ll do my best to briefly explain but there’s a couple great videos by TheApartmentBrewer and one by BrewCabin that go over this topic in detail so definitely check those out. But you’ll start with your water report ( www.nestle-watersna.com/sites/g/files/pydnoa606/files/2021-02/2020-PS-WAR-EN.pdf) and a tool like BeerSmith, Brew n water, or the Brewer’s Friend Mash Chemistry tool (I recommend that last one for a free tool). Enter your details from the water report into the corresponding fields of the tool of your choice. That’ll be your source water. Next you’ll need to select or define your target water profile. I’ll include my target profile information below. All of this takes some time to setup in the tool of your choice but once it’s set up each subsequent time will be much faster. Once your target is defined some tools calculate the additions automatically and some (like the brewers friend tool) you’ll need to just play with the amounts until it aligns with the target profile. I promise all of this sounds more complicated than it is. My suggestion is to just hop in and try it out. Should take about 15 minutes your first time. Cheers 🍻 Calcium: 125ppm Magnesium: 5 Sodium: 10 Sulfate: 150 Chloride: 200 Bicarbonate: 0
@@HopsANDgnarly a truly appreciate you taking your time to respond back to me. I’m nervous to do it but I will take your advice and set it up. I will keep you posted as I go along. Thank you so much for the help.
How solid are the chronicals compared to the anvils eh! You can get up to 2.5psi on the chronical using the kegland sounding valves. Gives you a one way airlock as well and no suck back. That's what I'm doing with mine.
Honestly i have some but havent used it yet, but im guna put it in with an ipa i have fermenting atm its one of my faves so im hopjng i can tell the difference
It’s a pain to release the pressure but with the valve closed there’s essentially no impact on the pressure of the fermenter. And when you open it with ~3psi in the sight glass it disperses into the volume of the fermenter and doesn’t have much impact
@@HopsANDgnarly The experiment is interesting but having loud music in the background while talking is annoying. It is unfortunately somewhat of a trend nowadays. I guess Casey Neistat did it at some point and therefore now everyone has to do it.
Jackie O's!!! I would definitely drop the boil addition all together. The high alpha hops that you have in the whirlpool are contributing a lot of bitterness. At least that's what I found in my experiments. 👍🍻
Definitely one of my top breweries! I’m digging the balance of bitterness but who knows where this could end up 🤘🏼🍻
@@HopsANDgnarly Its the same for me, around 125g on the whirlpool (same hops I use on dryhop) at 82C for 15min is the golden spot on bitterness and flavour for me. By the way, really awesome series, the atmosphere of your videos makes It so enjoyable to watch, can't wait for the next episodes, cheers!
@@rafaelpestano7436 cheers man 🍻
Can’t help but to feel special when I hear “grams” in the whirlpool additions! another great video for this series, perhaps at the end you could try to taste the first iteration of this recipe against the final winning version just to see how far you’ve come!
100%! Thanks for making this better! There's a good chance we'll see a return of the previous batches 🍻
Love it
Great video, thanks! Maybe if you could display unit conversion on screen everytime you mention a temperature or weigth, that could really help the non-US viewer. Cheers!
Maybe you could learn the super-simple conversions, and then never have to worry about it again. Cheers!
Keep it up! I'm gonna have to get one of those aromatics boxes! I have to agree with Short Circuited's comment down below, I don't like to add anything to the boil in my hazies since I get a decent amount of bitterness from the whirlpool alone, but that's just my preference. Great video!
I’m willing to try pretty much anything lol but the previous batches I didn’t have it and it just wasn’t quite where I want it. The aroma kit was fun! And honestly I’m done with it so I’d be totally happy to mail it to you!
I’m digging how you’re going through your recipe development process. Idaho 7 is a great hop, and that second beer looks fantastic!
Thanks man! Stoked on how it’s shaping up 🍻
Still AWESOME videos, I'm loving this season!
A note on oxidation. Active yeast will chew up any oxygen quickly, so making your hop addition during the height of fermentation when yeast cells are most abundant is the best time to do it. Any oxygen contamination must have happened after fermentation. My guess is during packaging.
Thanks! Always good to see you down here! That’s a great point 🙏🏼🍻
Yeah ideally for the experiments there's a closed transfer to kegs and then tasting from there. Your canning setup is awesome though I wish I had something like that
And the Brewtuber of year award goes to....... Hops & Gnarly ! - I am going to try Idaho 7 sooner than later. Thanks for the great video.
Ah thanks man! I appreciate your support!
Loving the move into experimental terrain.
From what I read dry hops supposed to undergo biotransformation should not be added at the peak of yeast activity, but somewhat after the peak. The reason for this was that the volatile aroma compounds of hops would be blown off by the stream of CO2 to a greater extent if added at peak. This is obviously a trade off situation, but you might wanna play with the timing to achieve the best result.
Great suggestion! I’ll give it a try 🍻
Would be interested in seeing you playing with yeasts to compare their biotransformability (word?) Solid vid!
That’d be fun! Thanks dude 🍻
I’m loving this channel. Recently found it after being recommended by Homebrew 4 Life. I’ve learned a ton already. Keep up the tremendous work!
Thanks! Stoked you like it! Plenty more to come
Great video. As I'm watching this I'm trying to make up my mind if I should dry hop today, during active fermentation on day 2,or wait another 2 days. Damn, can't decide
I like Chinook alongside Citra and El Dorado. It is a little dull when used with only one variety, but with two other strong veriiteies it acts like a third dimension and drives the beer more towards tropical aromas rather than orange (which I don't prefer in hazies). One good thing about Chinook is it's very cheap and you can easily find pellets of latest harvest. About oxidation, I think sticking a hop bag on the interior wall of the FV with a magnet and pulling it off during high krausen is the easiest and safest way without opening it.
Just planted some Chinook! That’s a good tip! I haven’t tried the magnet approach but I’ve seen TheApartmentBrewer use that technique with success. I’ll have to give it a shot sometime! Cheers 🍻
I’ve just rewatched all the episodes, from the first to this one. I can’t wait for the next one. This series is fantastic
🙌🏼 thanks man! Stoked for the next one!
Very cool! Can't wait for the ultimate IPA at the end 😂
you have a really nice process, congrats. I'm loving this series... this is my favorite video you have done so far. Brew on my man!
Hey thanks dude! I’m stoked you like it 🤘🏼🍻
Great series! I love how you have been working with experimenting with IPAs and how different additions affect the final beer.
Thanks man! Stoked you like it!
Beers look amazing, great hop combo too, ive only used Idaho 7 once but think i will give it another go. Cheers,
Cheers man! 🍻
I have a Anvil also and love it, I see that you are not sparging or adding any additional water before boil so are putting the complete volume of water for your boil in the mash? I was following the guide and adding the required water per pounds of grain and then adding the extra gallon or two during sparging. I have also thought about the 1.5 quart of per pounds of grain rule then sparging the rest after for boil, thoughts on your process?
Personally I don’t see a big difference in efficiency when I sparge so I’ve started to skip it and just bump my efficiency down a couple percentage points. The manual had info on both procedures. I have made sure to still mash out and that seems to work well. Large grain bills are probably the only time I’d sparge and just because it takes up more space in the kettle. If you try a no sparge let me know how it goes
Great video! I love the experimentation and sharing your results. Shows us how we can all work on making our own "perfect" beer. Looking forward to future videos. Cheers!!
Stoked! That’s exactly my goal! Cheers 🍻
I’m just here for the b-roll/airlock music at the end
Awesome video I thoroughly enjoyed it 🍻🍻
Thanks man! I appreciate it!
Awesome video! A little confused by the end result though? Did you really prefer the biotransform and what exactly what different between the two that you noticed the biotransform helped? Also as side question. How long was the total fermentation? (7 day fermentation) (7 day dry hop) (2 day cold crash)?
Something went wrong with the dry hop on the bio hopped beer but the hop combo is great and I really like the single hopped version. Next time I’ll bio hop again and see what happens. Yea so if brew day is day 0 I bio hopped day 1 dry hopped day 7 and cold crashed day 8 and 9. The best way to know what to do next is by checking the gravity
@@HopsANDgnarly This is really useful information. A problem I'm having in mine right now is that I'm dry hopping after day 7. Then again 4 days later to double dry hop but I'm getting a lot of hop resin in my beer when I keg. It makes it really bitter it's like the hops haven't really dropped out and i taste the actual hop and not the hop oils. This video is perfect for what I'm doing right now. Maybe I will do a biotransform and a 7 day hop instead of one with 4 days left.
I like to factor the cold crash into that last dry hop in BeerSmith too. A good two day cold crash helps drop the hops but a little time in the keg can be really beneficial. I usually carb the slow way and then drink the first couple pours before packaging or serving friends. Cheers man!
@@HopsANDgnarlyYour awesome thanks!
I've seen Idaho 7 as an awesome whirlpool addition hop, Im not sure if I've seen it so much in dry hop. However kudos on the citra addition for bitterness. I think a lot of neipas miss the ball by not having a bittering addition to balance the beer. I'm excited to see what you got for yeast stains, I don't have access to imperial unless I want to spend close to $30 on yeast. I also find El dorado to have hop creep every time I DH with it
What would be different between whirlpool and dry hop? It’s a killer variety! Wow that’s steep for yeast! That’s the one I’ve been most excited about. Can’t wait!
@@HopsANDgnarly I'm not sure but if you look up Idaho 7 it's supposedly best during whirlpool but you obviously got good results!
@@thebird36 Interesting! I’ll check it out
I suspect your Hazies will get much better with a different yeast. I tried a few heavily hopped beers with Chico (not really NEIPAs) and they always started to lose hop flavor and haze after a few weeks. Same with WLP013 London (I had hoped it would work as it is my goto yeast for Porters and Milds). I have made some wonderful hazies with London III and Voss. I am looking forward to trying the Verdant dry yeast.
I’m so stoked for this next one! I think you’re totally right. Curious about verdant and also I feel like it’d be a good hop tolerance test to chuck some Philly sour in
Dude that is some legit brewing your doing
Thanks man stoked you’re digging it!
What is your efficiency like? I'm getting something crazy like 90-92% efficiency with a Brewzilla and it made me have to scale back my base malts quite a bit, which lowered the color in some lighter beers. So then I had to compensate by adding some munich to bring the color back up to where it should be. It's an interesting problem to have.
Dang! The BrewEasy is right around 70%. That’s a very interesting problem to have! I guess you could cut your mash short but that kinda defeats the purpose lol
@@HopsANDgnarly I'm milling kind of fine, mashing for 75 minutes, and doing a slow sparge. All of those things combined seem to help. I always mash out at 161F for 15 minutes to get a glycoprotein rest which seems to improve head retention a bit, that's where the extra mash time comes from.
How would the bio-transformed beer get oxidized when you have the hop sightglass?
Hard to say! It can definitely happen though
How would you go about doing water chemistry for a hazy double IPA using Poland spring water? 5 gallon batch?
Good question! I’ll do my best to briefly explain but there’s a couple great videos by TheApartmentBrewer and one by BrewCabin that go over this topic in detail so definitely check those out. But you’ll start with your water report ( www.nestle-watersna.com/sites/g/files/pydnoa606/files/2021-02/2020-PS-WAR-EN.pdf) and a tool like BeerSmith, Brew n water, or the Brewer’s Friend Mash Chemistry tool (I recommend that last one for a free tool). Enter your details from the water report into the corresponding fields of the tool of your choice. That’ll be your source water.
Next you’ll need to select or define your target water profile. I’ll include my target profile information below. All of this takes some time to setup in the tool of your choice but once it’s set up each subsequent time will be much faster.
Once your target is defined some tools calculate the additions automatically and some (like the brewers friend tool) you’ll need to just play with the amounts until it aligns with the target profile.
I promise all of this sounds more complicated than it is. My suggestion is to just hop in and try it out. Should take about 15 minutes your first time. Cheers 🍻
Calcium: 125ppm
Magnesium: 5
Sodium: 10
Sulfate: 150
Chloride: 200
Bicarbonate: 0
@@HopsANDgnarly a truly appreciate you taking your time to respond back to me. I’m nervous to do it but I will take your advice and set it up. I will keep you posted as I go along. Thank you so much for the help.
Great series! Thanks
Thanks! Stoked you like it!
How solid are the chronicals compared to the anvils eh! You can get up to 2.5psi on the chronical using the kegland sounding valves. Gives you a one way airlock as well and no suck back. That's what I'm doing with mine.
They are super solid! That’s a good tip I’ll check it out
Sounding is a very different practice from spunding 😂
@@ffwast😂😂
Where did you order that hop aroma kit from?
Yakima valley hops
Are you going to try a kveik yeast at high heat temperature
Probably not with this series. Is that what you use for hazy IPAs?
have you tried using beta glucosidase?
I haven’t but checked it out and ordered some aromazyme. Thanks for the tip!
Honestly i have some but havent used it yet, but im guna put it in with an ipa i have fermenting atm its one of my faves so im hopjng i can tell the difference
Pro move with the diacetyl rest
So funny. After a few rounds of hazy I landed on citra and el dorado
No comments on the affect of bio transformation?
No issues with that gas post not having a PRV? 😯
It’s a pain to release the pressure but with the valve closed there’s essentially no impact on the pressure of the fermenter. And when you open it with ~3psi in the sight glass it disperses into the volume of the fermenter and doesn’t have much impact
@@HopsANDgnarly so just fill with 3 psi?
Yep and I try to purge about 7 times
isn't vienna base malt too?
It’s a base malt but Proximity has a specific malt callled base malt. A little confusing
those butterfly’s sucks, brewha full bore valves are better, no restrictions, cool video
🤘🏼
Look into bru1 hops
I saw that sale recently - I’ll check them out!
The loud background music is really annoying
Thanks for watching 🤘🏼🍻
@@HopsANDgnarly The experiment is interesting but having loud music in the background while talking is annoying. It is unfortunately somewhat of a trend nowadays. I guess Casey Neistat did it at some point and therefore now everyone has to do it.