As always, great information, your videos have made a huge difference to the outcome of my beers. This one provides more insight, and answers some of the questions I have been longing to understand better. The other thing I would like to know more about is maturation. What is the key to getting the beer to best outcome. Thanks again David for imparting your wealth of knowledge
I just took advantage of a great deal on whole leaf hops , (first time for me using.) I was shocked about how much wort the leaf hop absorbed. I made an all Citra IPA. maybe better to use whole leaf hops as the dry hop? Anyhow, always happy to learn a new brew technique. Color of the wort was more a light yellow than the usual greenish tint of pellet hop wort. Will be interesting to see /taste the finished product. Thanks for the video, as always.
Enjoyed the video. Next time I’d be interested in what the pH should be to prevent tannins from the dry hops and how to harvest yeast if using a warm dry hopping temp and free hops, eg do you cold crash, dump yeast, then warm it back up? Seems that would take longer.
I ferment and serve in the same keg, leaving my dry hops in.I dont come across the grassy off flavours (during the couple of months it may take to drink it ) people talk about, though of course that might just be down to my taste buds !Another very helpful video btw.
Very interesting as always thank you :) Just a thought have you ever thought about making your own hop extracts with a Soxhlet extractor? I'm intending on trying it soon
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Perhaps the simplest way to extract the hop oils is to use the same methods to extract essential oils from plants. I'm assuming that's what the big companies do to make an extract
Great video, thanks. When shoukd i commence a D-rest so it is complete in time to dry hop a couple of points from FG? I struggle with the timing of this and my fermentations are complete by the time I dry hop.
You really only need a D rest for lager yeast but I know its used by some for both. I personally do not use it and would suggest you try without it on the next one.
Nice video, thanks Dave....keen to try in the keg. Are there any increased risk with infection with dry hopping ? My latest batch had the dreaded 'Phenol' taste....only had once before ,both dry hopped beers.....
I recently bought my first batch of cryo style hops and look forward to trying them out in a test batch, i think they were actually t45 nectaron so could be a great one for me to compare as I've used normal nectaron before. I have a different question though david, at the moment I brew exclusively from extract kit form and experiment with my own hop/yeast additions, sometimes I use standard tap water and sometimes I use what is labelled as Scottish spring water from supermarkets supplied in handy 5litre containers which come in useful. When brewing with all grain I'm aware that water adjustments are made adding gypsum etc altering ph, is there any benefit to the kit brewer to make any water adjustments and if so why is it not really spoken about? If there is any advantage, I would like to get the best start to my beer with the best water.
Yes, certainly having a suitable water profile is valuable for extract kits. You will need various data on the water you use though for accurate adjustments.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew will look into getting it tested etc, I forgot to say I do actually use pure brew regardless of the water I use and generally have no complaints but interested in what I'm actually putting in.
For my recipes I adjust the amount according to what I am looking for and consider what has worked best in the past for that result. Sometimes that means some extra testing.
I have found crashing to 14deg after ferment for 4 days, remove dropped yeast then DH for 2-3 days. Shake fermenter twice a day then cold crash for 2 days then keg. note: i use a fermzilla and hop bong to not introduce CO2
Hey David, quick question for ya....when dry hopping i have been using around 8 psi pressure to squeeze the oils out a bit better. Do you feel this strategy is reasonable and makes a difference should you have the ability to. Also another fermentation question....again with regards to psi, if primary fermenting under pressure what is the maximum psi you would use? and does it matter if lager vs ale on amount of psi....i had been using higher psi on lager yeasts and less on ales but does that make sense or should it be opposite as ales are top fermenters and higher psi may push down fermentation to enhance attenuation.... Figured if anyone knew it is you....thanks for all your great information
Thanks. The core reason for pressure during dry hopping is to stop blowing off as much aroma. The oils will come out with or without pressure 🍻🍻🍻 Max pressure that I suggest is 12 PSI, nothing more is needed or will really make any further positive result.
Ive tried dry hopping a various temps including kveik high temps. In the end, as I said in the video, its really a case of trying different temps and seeing what you prefer.
What about Diacetyl? Ive gotten it a few times after dry hopping and always with the same hop variety(s). Its a known issue and there are certain famous breweries that will dry hop until it goes away and it seems to be what sparked the cold dry hop movement. Do you get it with certain hop varieties? Or are you blind to it? Im super sensitive to it as is my wife and its annoying when it happens lost dry hop. Also how do you get the collection container purged fully? Im super paranoid about introducing O2 through the bottom of my Fermizilla which is why is still dry hop through the lid.
Personally, after many trials(!), I certainly *cannot* recommend dry-hopping 'from the bottom' using the collection jar. There just isn't enough exchange nor mixing, and the hops do not get thoroughly wetted through, rather they remain in the bottom with only the top most hops getting wet and forming a thick sludge that shields the hops underneath. I often even had roughly intact hops pellets that were dry on the inside remaining in the 'hop sludge' in the collection jar. Also, yeast will drop out onto the hops forming another barrier and further restricting exchange. Dropping the hops from the top (with the 'hop bong') allows them to completely fall apart in the beer and slowly percolate throughout the beer with maximal contact. Cold crashing then encourages them to drop out and collect in the collection jar.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew well, one thing that probably makes a huge difference as to whether dh'ing from the collection jar works that occurred to me and that I didn't mention above is the amount. I'm typically dh'ing with 200-300g of pellets. Thats alot and it's not surprising to me that the pellets on the bottom don't get mixed into the beer well. If someone is using 100g or less, it might work fine, since the in-rush of beer when you open the butterfly would probably suffice to flush the pellets out of the jar and into the beer. Have you ever successfully dh'ed 300g of pellets from the jar?
Interesting indeed. What about hopstand at different temperatures and the hops leaving different tast. Example 95 °C = citrus, spicy 85 °C = floral, spicy, herbaceous 75 °C = woody And IBU sien't taken in to acount likewise utilization. But as always, you bring up exiting vidoes of very high quallati. Thanks so mutch for your effort and time. ❤ 👍
Quick question: When dry hopping the hops needs to be removed from the container at some point. When do you do this? Is the hops left the entirety of fermentation and cold crash, or is it removed before cold crash?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks! So contact time for the Verdant IPA would be 3 days at end at fermentation plus time for cold crash? Certainly makes it easier and with no risk for contamination :)
Dry hoping with higher temperature leads to extra bitterness and extra astrigency. Unfortunatey everyone homebrewer have not possibility to adjust temperature
I thought it was pretty rude, so yes I removed it. This is a “everything you NEED to know video”. Yes there are some techniques not mentioned. Im not bragging about people not needing a book, im just stating how I see things.
I had no idea hop control was a thing and is exactly what I needed.
Great to hear, I have a seperate video with much more details too on the channel 🍻🍻🍻
As always, great information, your videos have made a huge difference to the outcome of my beers. This one provides more insight, and answers some of the questions I have been longing to understand better. The other thing I would like to know more about is maturation. What is the key to getting the beer to best outcome. Thanks again David for imparting your wealth of knowledge
Thank you, much appreciated.
Maturation really varies from style to style.
With all my recipe videos I advise on this as individual cases.
Great video… as always! Thoroughly enjoyed it!
Thank you, great to hear 🍻🍻🍻
Another great video clear and concise 👍
Thank you, much appreciated 🍻🍻🍻
Brilliant, thank you
Much appreciated 🍻🍻🍻
Great video David. How far off final gravity do you add yoir dry hops? Thanks
Thank you. Add them when you are between 5-10 points away from final gravity 🍻🍻🍻
I just took advantage of a great deal on whole leaf hops , (first time for me using.) I was shocked about how much wort the leaf hop absorbed. I made an all Citra IPA. maybe better to use whole leaf hops as the dry hop? Anyhow, always happy to learn a new brew technique. Color of the wort was more a light yellow than the usual greenish tint of pellet hop wort. Will be interesting to see /taste the finished product.
Thanks for the video, as always.
Cheers Shawn. Yes, they sure do absorb more wort than pellets but they are nice to use in my opinion.
woohoo. interesting topic. thank you
Thank you 🍻🍻🍻
Great overview David, many thanks. Only a remark, what about hop creep? This is certainly a point of attention during dryhopping. Cheers 😊!
Thanks. This will be a seperate topic.
Enjoyed the video. Next time I’d be interested in what the pH should be to prevent tannins from the dry hops and how to harvest yeast if using a warm dry hopping temp and free hops, eg do you cold crash, dump yeast, then warm it back up? Seems that would take longer.
Great to hear.
Ok, all food for the future 🍻🍻🍻
I ferment and serve in the same keg, leaving my dry hops in.I dont come across the grassy off flavours (during the couple of months it may take to drink it ) people talk about, though of course that might just be down to my taste buds !Another very helpful video btw.
Thank you. Yes thats due to temperature 🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew However I don’t cool my beer , just serve it ambient temperature , maybe 16C in Summer !
@@simoncogan7373you don’t cool your beer? 😧
@@preuc3367 No , never liked cold beer !
Ok 🍻🍻🍻
Very informative.
What is your opinion regarding the use of a hop tea in lieu of dry hopping.
Thank you. Hop tea is something to experiment with for sure, though its not a technique ive used for a long time in fact.
Very interesting as always thank you :) Just a thought have you ever thought about making your own hop extracts with a Soxhlet extractor? I'm intending on trying it soon
Thanks Paul, much appreciated.
Sounds interesting but not something ive really thought about in all honesty.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Perhaps the simplest way to extract the hop oils is to use the same methods to extract essential oils from plants. I'm assuming that's what the big companies do to make an extract
Yes, I believe so.
Thanks for the video. Is it just me and my laptop or was the audio a bit scratchy and muffled?
Thanks. Sounds fine on all my devices and TV.
Great video, thanks. When shoukd i commence a D-rest so it is complete in time to dry hop a couple of points from FG? I struggle with the timing of this and my fermentations are complete by the time I dry hop.
You really only need a D rest for lager yeast but I know its used by some for both.
I personally do not use it and would suggest you try without it on the next one.
Nice video, thanks Dave....keen to try in the keg. Are there any increased risk with infection with dry hopping ? My latest batch had the dreaded 'Phenol' taste....only had once before ,both dry hopped beers.....
Thanks. There is always risk but if you follow the cleaning and santation guidelines then you are lowering that risk hugely.
I recently bought my first batch of cryo style hops and look forward to trying them out in a test batch, i think they were actually t45 nectaron so could be a great one for me to compare as I've used normal nectaron before.
I have a different question though david, at the moment I brew exclusively from extract kit form and experiment with my own hop/yeast additions, sometimes I use standard tap water and sometimes I use what is labelled as Scottish spring water from supermarkets supplied in handy 5litre containers which come in useful. When brewing with all grain I'm aware that water adjustments are made adding gypsum etc altering ph, is there any benefit to the kit brewer to make any water adjustments and if so why is it not really spoken about? If there is any advantage, I would like to get the best start to my beer with the best water.
Yes, certainly having a suitable water profile is valuable for extract kits. You will need various data on the water you use though for accurate adjustments.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew will look into getting it tested etc, I forgot to say I do actually use pure brew regardless of the water I use and generally have no complaints but interested in what I'm actually putting in.
How do you initially decide how much hops to use?
For my recipes I adjust the amount according to what I am looking for and consider what has worked best in the past for that result. Sometimes that means some extra testing.
I have found crashing to 14deg after ferment for 4 days, remove dropped yeast then DH for 2-3 days.
Shake fermenter twice a day then cold crash for 2 days then keg.
note: i use a fermzilla and hop bong to not introduce CO2
Great, thanks for sharing 🍻🍻🍻
Hey David, quick question for ya....when dry hopping i have been using around 8 psi pressure to squeeze the oils out a bit better. Do you feel this strategy is reasonable and makes a difference should you have the ability to.
Also another fermentation question....again with regards to psi, if primary fermenting under pressure what is the maximum psi you would use? and does it matter if lager vs ale on amount of psi....i had been using higher psi on lager yeasts and less on ales but does that make sense or should it be opposite as ales are top fermenters and higher psi may push down fermentation to enhance attenuation....
Figured if anyone knew it is you....thanks for all your great information
Thanks.
The core reason for pressure during dry hopping is to stop blowing off as much aroma. The oils will come out with or without pressure 🍻🍻🍻
Max pressure that I suggest is 12 PSI, nothing more is needed or will really make any further positive result.
what about kveik , like your fermenting at 90 F would you still dry hop at that temp?
Ive tried dry hopping a various temps including kveik high temps. In the end, as I said in the video, its really a case of trying different temps and seeing what you prefer.
One receives 100g of hops in a nitrogen sealed packet and uses 30g in a fermentation. How does one store the remaining 70g for, say a week or two?
The fridge is adequate for that period, however in the freezer is much more protective longer term.
What about Diacetyl? Ive gotten it a few times after dry hopping and always with the same hop variety(s). Its a known issue and there are certain famous breweries that will dry hop until it goes away and it seems to be what sparked the cold dry hop movement. Do you get it with certain hop varieties? Or are you blind to it? Im super sensitive to it as is my wife and its annoying when it happens lost dry hop. Also how do you get the collection container purged fully? Im super paranoid about introducing O2 through the bottom of my Fermizilla which is why is still dry hop through the lid.
Yes, certainly this can be an issue, especially if you are super sensitive to it. Its a whole topic on its own though.
Not sure where you're located but can you get ALDC? That should prevent it.
@jeffcannon7380 🍻🍻🍻
Personally, after many trials(!), I certainly *cannot* recommend dry-hopping 'from the bottom' using the collection jar. There just isn't enough exchange nor mixing, and the hops do not get thoroughly wetted through, rather they remain in the bottom with only the top most hops getting wet and forming a thick sludge that shields the hops underneath. I often even had roughly intact hops pellets that were dry on the inside remaining in the 'hop sludge' in the collection jar. Also, yeast will drop out onto the hops forming another barrier and further restricting exchange. Dropping the hops from the top (with the 'hop bong') allows them to completely fall apart in the beer and slowly percolate throughout the beer with maximal contact. Cold crashing then encourages them to drop out and collect in the collection jar.
Hey Josh, thanks for sharing. We all have our own findings it seems 🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew well, one thing that probably makes a huge difference as to whether dh'ing from the collection jar works that occurred to me and that I didn't mention above is the amount. I'm typically dh'ing with 200-300g of pellets. Thats alot and it's not surprising to me that the pellets on the bottom don't get mixed into the beer well. If someone is using 100g or less, it might work fine, since the in-rush of beer when you open the butterfly would probably suffice to flush the pellets out of the jar and into the beer. Have you ever successfully dh'ed 300g of pellets from the jar?
Thats a lot more than I would usually use and is recommended. I would suggest splitting this amount between dry hops in the fv and keg.
Most people I know soft crash to about 50 and dump out as much yeast as possible before they DH
This is useful if you want to harvest the yeast.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew also allows for bigger dry hop charges and less greenness when you remove yeast and dry hop colder.
🍻🍻🍻
Interesting indeed.
What about hopstand at different temperatures and the hops leaving different tast.
Example
95 °C = citrus, spicy
85 °C = floral, spicy, herbaceous
75 °C = woody
And IBU sien't taken in to acount likewise utilization.
But as always, you bring up exiting vidoes of very high quallati.
Thanks so mutch for your effort and time. ❤ 👍
Thank you, very much appreciated.
The problem with the hopstand side is that this will vary from hop to hop and also by taste palette too.
Quick question:
When dry hopping the hops needs to be removed from the container at some point. When do you do this?
Is the hops left the entirety of fermentation and cold crash, or is it removed before cold crash?
Sure, personally I remove after transfer.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks! So contact time for the Verdant IPA would be 3 days at end at fermentation plus time for cold crash? Certainly makes it easier and with no risk for contamination :)
@togeru-sirtam yes, precisely 🍻🍻🍻
Hops
For sure 🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew how do I get hopsconnect to work?
Dry hoping with higher temperature leads to extra bitterness and extra astrigency. Unfortunatey everyone homebrewer have not possibility to adjust temperature
Yes, this can be the perception for some. This will fade though, its not permanent as such usually.
Poppa's (not) got a brand new bag (video) 😂
🍻🍻🍻
Did you get offended, since you removed my comment?
I thought it was pretty rude, so yes I removed it. This is a “everything you NEED to know video”. Yes there are some techniques not mentioned. Im not bragging about people not needing a book, im just stating how I see things.
Dude get off the internet. Why not just don’t take advice if you don’t like it.
@@DavidHeathHomebrewsolid video 👍
Many thanks 🍻🍻🍻
What was amusing is he made a very rude post and then complained when it was removed!!